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Marks'  Patent  Artificial  Limbs 


WITH  RUBBER  HAND 
AND  FEET 

Are  natural  in  action,  noiseless  in  motion,  and 
the  most  durable  in  construction.  It  is  not 
unusual  to  see  a  farmer  working  in  the  fields 
with  an  artificial  leg,  or  a  bralieman  plying 
his  brake  on  a  fast-running  train,  or  an  en- 
criaeer  with  hand  on  the  throttle,  or  a  fire- 
man, a  carpenter,  mason,  miner — in  fact,  men 


of  every  vocation — at  labor  in  the  full  capaci- 
ty of  their  employment,  wearing  one  or  two 
artificial  legs  with  rubber  feet,  performing 
as  much  as  men  in  possession  of  all  their 
natural  members,  earning  the  same  wages — in 
fact,  experiencing  little  or  no  inconvenience. 


Over  13,000  in  use,  scattered  in  all  parts 
of  the  world.  Eminent  surgeons  and  cdln- 
petent  judsres  commend  the  rubber  foot  and  hand  for  their  many  advantages. 
At  every  industrial  exhibition  v^here  exhibited 
they  have  received  the  Highest  Award.  They 
are  indorsed  and  purchased  by  the  IJnited 
States  and  many  foreign  Governments.  A 
Treatise  containing  430  pages  and  260  illus- 
trations sent  free ;  also  a  Formula  for  taking 
measurements,  by  which  limbs  can  be  made 
and  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  world  with  fit 
guaraateed.  ' 

Address 


A.    A.     MARKS, 


701  Broadway,   NEW  YORK  CITY. 

ESTABLISHED    FORTY    YEARS. 


BOSTON'S  BACK  BAY  HOTELS. - 
THE     VENDOME. 

COMMONWEALTH    AVENUE, 


C.  H.  GREENLEAF   &   CO., 

iels  Bruns 
C.  H.  Geeenleat,  of  P)'oJile  House. 


iT.  D^unSe  [  (^f  ^'^'^'  Brumwicl  and  VictoHa.  Proprietors. 


THE    BRUNSWICK, 

BOYLSTON  AND  CLARENDON  STREETS, 

AMEEIOAir  AED  EUEOPEAJJ  PLAN.      Opposite  Trinity  (Phillips  Brooks's)  Church  ; 

—  AND  — 

THE     VICT  OR  LA, 

DARTMOUTH  AND  NEWBURY  STREETS, 

EUROPEAN    PLAN.  Opposite  Boston  Art  Club. 

BARNES  &  DTJNKLEE,  Proprietors. 


PROEILE     HOUSE, 

FRANCONIA  NOTCH,  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 
TAFT  &  GREENLEAF    -      -    Proprietors. 


HOTEL     PON  EM  AH,  i 

-    AMHERST    STATION,    N.   H., 
JUNE   TO   OCTOBER.  48  miles  from  Boston  (Boston  &  Lo\^eU  R.  R.X 

D.    S.   PLUMER,   Proprietor. 


i       FORD  .  CO..  P.opn.o..  jjl^^  3^^\  Q^_^ 

IIOTELS  may  change  greatly  in  one  year's 
*  i  time  ;  in  two  years  they  are  often  com- 
pletely transformed.  Every  traveler  recog- 
nizes this  fact.     The 


OTEL 


r^RAND  I   JNIONLJ 

(4th  Ave. ,  41st  and  42d  Streets, 
opposite  Grand  Central  Depot) 

has  been  steadily  improved  during  the  last 
decade,  until  it  stands  to-day  as  the  leading 
family  and  tourist  hotel  of  moderate  cost  in 
the  city  of  Nev/  York. 

Absolute  Cleanliness  —  Cuisine  Unsurpassed  — 
Telegraph  and  Long  Distance  Telephone  in 
House  —  Elevated  Railroad  Just  Across  the 
Street — Horse-cars  to  All  Parts  of  the  City  — 
Central  Location  —  Right  in  the  Midst  of  the 
Theaters  and  Shops  —  Baggage  To  and  From 
42d  Street  Depot  Free  —  Every  Attention  to 
Comfort. 

;         Rooms  from  $1.00  a  Day  upward. 


•?lst  SEASON. 

Eight  miles  west  of  the  Hudson  River.    By  way  of  Catskill,  within  FOU 
HOUBiS  of  New  York  City.    Also  accessible  by  way  of  Rhinebeck, 
Rondout,  and  Kingston.    Passengers  by  either  of  the  above 
routes  may  purchase  tickets  to  CATSKILL  MOUN- 
TAIN STATION,  which  is  only  300  feet  from 
the   Hotel,    and  is   the   terminus   of   all 
rail  routes  to  this  region. 

Open  June  20th. 

THIS  well-kBO\vTi  Summer  Hotel  is  situated  on  one  of  the  eastern  ledges  of  the  sumi 
of  the  Catskill  Mountains,  2,250  feet  above  tide  water,  and  by  reatson  of  its  pecnlia 
advantageous  location,  on  the  front  of  the  range,  is  the  only  hotel  tbat  commands  • 
famous  view  of  the  Hiidson  Valle^v,  which  stretches  out  from  the  base  of  the  mountains 
low,  to  the  Adirondacks  in  the  north,  the  Green  Mountain  and  Berkshire  Hills  in  the  e« 
and  the  Highlands  in  the  south,  embracing  an  area  of  12,000  square  miles,  with  sixty  mi 
of  the  Hudson  River  in  the  foreground. 

THE    MOUNTAIN-HOUSE   PARK 

Has  a  valley  frontage  of  over  three  miles  in'extent,  and  consists  of  3,000  acres,  or  about  ; 
square  miles,  of  magnificent  forest  and  farming  lands,  traversed  in  all  directions  by  mi 
miles  of  caiTiage-roads  and  paths  leading  to  various  noted  places  of  interest. 
.  The  Crest, Newman's  Ledge.  Bears'  Den,  and  Prospect  Rock  on  North  Mountain,  and  Ea 
liock  and  Palenville  Overlook  on  South  Mountain,  from  which  the  grandest  views  of 
region  are  obtained,  are  included  in  the  property.  It  also  includes  within  its  bounda 
North  and  South  Lakes,  both  plentifully  stocked  with  various  kinds  of  fish,  and  well  supp 
v^dth  boats. 

The  principal  drives  include  KaatersMll  Falls,  Haines's  Falls.  Kaaterskill  Clove,  Pa 
vUle,  Tannersville,  and  Hunter  Village.  The  atmosphere  is  delightful,  invigorating, 
pure,  the  great  elevation  and  surrounding  forest  r-endering  it  absolutely  free  from  mala 
It  aflordB  relief  to  sulferers  from  Chills  and  Fever,  Asthma,  Hay-Fever,  Loss  of  Appe' 
and  General  Debility.  The  temperature  is  always  fifteen  to  twenty  degrees  lower  thai 
Catskill  Village,  New  York  City,  or  Philadelphia.'  The  location  and  surroundings  are  ir 
respects  the  most  desirable  in  the  entire  range  of  the  Catskills,  and  no  hot«]  similarly  situ; 
is  so  easy  of  access,  or  so  near  in  time  to  New  York  City.  As  a  resort  for  transient  visi 
to  the  Mountains  it  has  many  great  attractions  over  other  localities. 

For  Circular,  containing  rates,  etc..  address 

CATSKILL  MOUNTAIN   HOUSE  CO.,  Catskill.  N.Y 


PLAZA    HOTEL. 


;  "  The  most  magnificently  and  Insuriously 
ippointed  and  most  perfectly  equipped  hotel 
B  the  world."— ^Y.  Y.  Hotel  Register. 


The  model  Hotel  of  the  world. 
"Eeprefc-ents    an    expenditure   of 
over  $3,000,000."— iV.r.  Tntmne. 


rpHE  water  and  ice  used  are  vaporized  arid  frozen  on  the  premises,  and  certified  as  to  purity 
1  bv  Prof.  Charles  F.  Chandler.  Hotel  overlooking  Central  Park,  Fifth  Avenue.  58th  and 
59th  Streets,  New  York.  HIGHEST  CL.\8S.  ABSOLUTELY  FIRE-PEOOF.  On  Ameri- 
can and  European  Plans.  Within  half  a  block  of  Sixth  Avenue  Elevated  E.  E.  terminus. 
Fifth  Avenue  Stages  and  Cross-Town  Care  pass  the  doors.  p,  A_  HAMMOND. 


CURTIS    HOTEL, 

LENOX,   MASS. 

In  center  of  the  Berkshire  Hills.  1,270  feet 
abo\  e  tide  water.  Pure  air,  pure  water,  iiue  drives, 
and  walks.     Good  rooms  in  hotel  or  cottages. 


^  OPEN  ALL   THE   YEAR.  -I* 


W.  O.  CURTIS,  Proprietor. 

5 


Copley  Square  Hotel. 


t 


± 


^T.^^feK 


Huntington  Avenue  and  Exeter  Street,  Boston. 
Located  in  the  Fashionable  and  Beautiful  Back  Bay  District. 

CONTAINING  300  ROOMS,  SINGLE  AND  EN  SUITE,  RICHLY  FURNISHED. 

IT  IS  BUT  SIX  MINUTES'  RIDE  BY  HORSE  OR  ELECTRIC  CARS  TO  THE  SHOPPING  AND  AMUSEMENT  CENTRES. 

FIVE  MINUTES  TO  PROVIDENCE  DEPOT,  THE  TERMINUS  OF  THE  SHORE  LINE  R.  R. , 

FALL  RIVER,   STONINGTON,  AND  PROVIDENCE  BOAT  LINES. 

PASSENGERS  VIA  BOSTON  &  ALBANY  R.  R.    MAY  LEAVE  THE  TRAIN  AT  HUNTINGTON  AVENUE  STATION,  WITHIN 

ONE  MINUTE'S  WALK  OF  HOTEU 

HOTEL  PORTER  WILL  BE  IN  ATTENDANCE  AT  TRAINS  ARRIVING  FROM  NEW  YORK  AND  THE  WEST 

F.  S.  RISTEEN  &  CO.,  Proprietors. 


The  Hotel  Ghamplain, 

On  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Ghamplain,  three  miles  south  of  Plattsburg. 
Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R.  station  and  steamboat  landing  in  hotel  grounds. 
All  trains  and  boats  stop.  The  natural  stopping-over  point  for  tourists  to 
and  from  Montreal  and  the  Adirondacks.  Extensive  grounds,  unrivaled 
scenery. 

O.  D.  SEAVEY,  Manager, 

p.  O.  address,  HOTEL   CHAMPLAIN,  Clinton  Co.,  N.  Y. 

7 


PARK  AVENUE  HOTEI 


ABSOLUTELY 

FIRE=PRO< 


Park  Avenue,  32d  to  33d  Street,  New  York. 

American  and  European  Plans. 
$150,000  IN  Alterations  AND  Improvements.     Beautiful  Court,  with  Music,  Fountain,  and  Flo\ 
Free  Baggage  from  Grand  Central  Depot  and  Long  Island  Railroad. 

WA1.  H.  EARLE  &  SON,  Proprietoi 


THE  WEST  POINT  HOTEL 

AT  WEST  POINT,   NEW  YORK. 
THEJ   0:!SriL.Y  HOTKL.    OIST   THK    I'D  ST. 

ALBERT  H.  CRANEY. 


iiiteKi, 


The  hotel  par  excellence  of  the  National  Capital,  opposite  the  Treasury, 
and  one  block  from  the  White  House. 

This  well-known  hotel 
has  been  reopened  under 
new  management.  It  has 
been  refitted  and  renovated 
throughout  with  new  fur- 
niture and  handsomely 
decorated,  a  magnificent 
dining-room  lighted  by 
four  immense  chandeliers, 
brilliant  with  many  incan- 
descent electric  lamps,  and 
carpeted  with  new  and 
handsome  carpet  to  dead- 
en every  sound.  The  serv- 
ice of  one  of  the  most 
noted  cooks  of  the  country 
lias  been  secured,  and  the 
cidsine,  service,  and  at- 
tendance will  be  of  supe- 
rior excellence. 

From  the  windows  of 
the  hotel  the  finest  views 
of  Washington  can  be  ob- 
tained. K  developing -room 
for  the  use  of  amateur  pho- 
tographers, has  been  pro- 
vided for  the  guests  of  the 
house. 

An  illustrated  Guide  to 
Washington  will  be  mailed 
upon  receipt  of  two  two- 
cent  postage  stamps. 


illlliiiiii 
'"SIlIlIIll 


3  J, 


RIGGS  HOnSS  COMPANIT, 

G.  DE  WITT,  Treasurer. 


WILLARD'S  HOTEL,  Washington,  d.  c. 


iM 


The  largest,  oldest  house  in  the  Capital.  First  class  in  all  respects. 

Send  two  stamps  to  O.  G.  STAPLES,  Proprietor,  for  Guide-Book  to  Washington,  D.  C. 

9 


HOTEL  WARWICK, 

OLD  POINT  COMFORT. 


LOCATED  ON   HAMPTON  ROADS, 

«IQHT  MILES  FROM 
OLD  POINT  COMFORT. 

OPEN   THROUGHOUT   THE    YEAR. 

A  substantial  brick  structure,  containing  all  modern  iniprovements  and  conven- 
iences, having  accommodations  for  three  hundred  visitors.  Situated  on  a  bluff  over- 
looking the  sea.  Elegantly  furnished.  Table  and  Service  unsurpassed.  Pure  Water 
from  an  Artesian  Well.  Drainage  and  Plumbing  perfect.  For  circulars  and  full 
information,  apply  to  ^  ^  ORCUTT,  No.  1  Broadway,  New  York  ; 
OR  TO  J.  R.  SWINERTON,  Manager. 

** Itt  a^word,  here  is  a  model  biography." — New  Tork  Critic. 

AD  M I R AL  FARRA GUT. 

By  Captain  A.  T.  MAHAN,  U.  S.  N., 

^       *  Author  of  "The  Gulf  and  Inland  Waters,"  etc. 

THE  FIRST  VOLUME  IN  THE  GREAT  COMMANDERS  SERIES, 

Edited  BY  Gen.  James  Grant  Wilson. 


With  Portrait  and  Maps 


13mo.     Clotli,  gilt  top,  $1.50. 


"  There  was  need  of  a  compact  and  readable  life  of  the  greatest  of  American  naval  heroes, 
and  this  Captain  Mahan  has  given  \ia.''''—P/iiladeIphia  Press. 

"It  is  written  by  a  naval  officer  who  i.s  a  seaman  of  large  experience,  who  served  in 
Farragtit's  squadron  during  the  war,  and  therefore  is  enabled  to  present  the  most  apprecia- 
tive account  of  that  remarkable  man  that  has  yet  been  given  to  the  public." — Chicago  Dial. 

For  sale  by  all  booksellers ;  or  will  be  sent  by  i7iaH  on  receipt  of  price  by  the  publishers. 


New  York:   D.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  1,  3,  &  5  Bond  Street. 


10 


# 


THE*QUEEN'S* 

^  HOTEL, 

^  Toronto,  Canada. 


McGAW  &  WINNETT, 

Proprietors. 


/^  NE  of  the  largest  and  most  comfortable  hotels  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and, 
^-^  being  adjacent  to  the  Lake,  commands  a  splendid  view  of  Toronto  Bay  and 
Lake  Ontario,  It  is  well  known  as  one  of  the  coolest  houses  in  summer  in  Canada, 
and  is  elegantly  furnished  throughout. 

Eooms  en  suite^  with  bath-rooms  attached,  on  every  floor. 
THF     niT'C'PM'C  has  been  liberally  patronized  by  Eoyalty  and  Nobility 

^'■'■^ ^^  i£  during  their  visits  to  Toronto,  and  among  those  who  have 


honored  it  with  their  patronage  are  :  His  Imperial  Highness,  the  Grand 
Duke  Alexis  of  Kussia ;  their  Royal  Highnesses,  Prince  Leopold,  Prince 
George ;  Princess  Louise,  and  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Connaugbt ;  the 
Marquis  cf  Lome  ;  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Dufferin  ;  the  Marquis  and 
Marchioness  of  Lansdowne  ;  Lord  and  Lady  Stanley,  of  Preston. 

THE  QUEEN) S  is  furnished  with  all  the  latest  modern  improvements.     Hand- 
some Passenger  Elevator,  Electric  Bella,  etc. 


Appletons'  Guide -Book  to  Alaska 

AND  THE   NORTHWEST  COAST, 

INCLUDING    THE    SHOEES    OF    WASHD^GTON,    BEITLSH    COLUMBIA, 

SOUTHEASTEEN  ALASKA,  THE  ALEUTIAN  ISLANDS,  THE  SEAL 

ISLANDS,    BERING    SEA,     AND    THE    AECTIC    OCEAN. 

BY 

Miss  ELIZA  RUHAMAH  SCIDMORE. 

With  Maps  and  Tllustrations. 

D.    APPLETON    &   CO., 

^  1,  3,  &  5  Bond  St.,  New  York. 
11 


-^  HOTEL  KENMORE^ 


Leading  Hotel  of  Albany,  N.Y. 

Strictly  First  Class.  -    -  Thoroughly  Modern. 

Centrally  Located.    Convenient  to  the  State  Capitol  and 
other  Public  Buildings  and  Places  of  Interest. 

J^"  FREE  OMNIBUSES  in  Attendance   at   all  Trains  and  Boats.  „.^ 

>  H.  J.  ROCKWELL,  Proprietor. 

F.  W.  ROCKWELL,  Manager. 

THE  WINDSOR   HOTEL, 

S  A.  Xi  uft.  T  o  a- -A- - 

OPEN    FROM   JUNE  1   TO   OCTOBER   1. 

A.    QTJIKrr    HOTEL    OF    THE    BEST    CLASS. 

Cuisine  and  Service  Zfnexceptiotiable. 

LATE     DINNERS.  ^  MUSIC. 

"White  Servants   Exel-usively. 
Send  for  Illustrated  Book  of  the  Hotel  to 

WILIiARD  LESTER,  Saratoga  Springrs,  N.  Y. 

13 


TH£  CLIFTON  HOUSE. 


•  NIAGARA  FALLS.  — 

Open  from  May  to  November  of  each  Year. 


'T^HIS  quiet  hotel  presents  to  tourists  every  desirable 
comfort.     The    cuisine    service    and  attention  un- 
surpassed.    Location  directly  facing  the  Falls. 

POSITIVELY  the  only  hotel  commanding  any 
view  whatever  of 'the  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 

Check  baggage  to  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.     Leave  cars 
I     at  same  place.     For  apartments  and  information,  address 

G.  M.  COLBURN,  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 


COLONNADE  HOTEL, 

H.   J.    &   G.    R.    CRUMP, 


^mmdU 


Cor.  15th  and  Chestnut  Streets,  Philadelphia, 

EUROPEAN  PLAN,   $i.oa  per  day  and  upward. 

AHERICAN  PLAN,  $3.50  per  day  and  upward. 

13 


FAMOUS   FOR  HALF  A  CENTURY. 

DNITED  STATES  HOTEL,  BOSTON 


RECENTLY  ENLARGED  and  GREATLY  IMPROVED. 

First-Class  Accotnvtodation  for  Five  Hundred  Guests. 

PLEASURE  PARTIES,  LALIES  and  FAMILIES  VISITING  BOSTON 

—  "WILL  FIND  THE  — 

imiTPfl    ^TATFQ  combining:   all    the    conveniences    and    substantia 

una  I  LU    O  1  n  I  to  comforts  of  a  pleasant  Home,  free  alike  from  eastrw 

ar/ant  show,  or  still  more  extravarjant  charges, 

WHILE  ITS  VSEY  CONVENIENT  LOCATION 

DIRECTLY   OPPOSITE   THE   BOSTON    AND   ALBANY, 

—  AND  ONLY  ONE  BLOCK  FROxM  THE  — 
OLD  COLONY  and  FALL.  KIVJEB  LINES,  three  blocks  only  from  the  NET 
YORK  and  NEW  ENGLAND,  and  PROVIDENCE  and  STONINGTO' 
^.T^u^^^^^'  ^"^  coiinecting  directly  by  HORSE  CARS  every  5  minutes,  Tvit 
all  the  Northern  and  Eastern  Railroads  and  Steamboats,  giving  Guests  ever 
possible  facility  and  convenience  of  rapid  and  economical  transfer  from  all  points. 

*®-UNEQUALLED    BY   ANY    HOTEL   IN    BOSTON.-ffiy 

Passengers  to  or  from  aU  Southern  or  Western  Points,  by  either  Boat  or  Kai 
JMCay  Save   all    Carriag^es    Fares, 

Thus  making  a  most  convenient  point  to  stop  on  arriving  in  the  city,  and  to  spend 
day  or  week  in  shopping  or  visiting  tiie  many  objects  of  art  and  interest,  a  most  centr 
and  convenient  location,  being  only  two  minutes'  walk  from  all  the  great  Beta 
Stores.  Theaties,   Objects  of  Interest  and  Places  of  Amusement. 

Sixteen  Hundred  Horse  Cars,  passing  three  sides  of  the  Hotel,  bring  it  in  dire 
connection  with  every  Railway  Station,  Steamboat, 

AND  THE  THOUSAND  ATTRACTIONS  OF  CITY,  SEASHOEE  AND  SUBUEBS. 
The  UNITED  STATES  recommends  itself  particularly  to  ladies  and  famili. 
visiting  the  city  for  shopping  or  attending  the  numerous  entertainments  and  exhibition 
or  as  head  quarters  for  parties  wishing  to  make  daily  excursions  down  the  harbor  • 
the  thousand  places  of  interest  with  which  liostou  is  surrounded;  while  its  charges  a 
moderate  and  regulated  by  the  accommodations  required,  allowing  yues-s  the  choi 
of  the  most  simple  or  more  sumptuous  apartim-nts.  Full  particulars  will  be  eive 
with  maps,  circulars,  etc.,  on  application  by  post  to 

TILLY  HAINES,  Besldent  Prop'r,  United  States  Hotel,  BOSTON,  H&( 


^roadtvay  Central  ITolel^ 

Nos,  667  to  677,         IVrpW   VOPTT  Midway  between 

Opposite  Bond  Street.    ^^^^     ^  Ult  A,    Battery  &  Central  Park 

NOW    UNDER    ENTIRE   NEW    MANAGEMENT, 

Who  have  recently  expended  over  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  a  thorough  re- 
organization of  this  immense  property,  by  far  the  largest  in  New  York, 
(~\n  N-r\r\x^\  ^"'^  ^^^^  ^^  *^^  great  hotels  of  the  world. 

I  iN,o? inV.T  ioV-nw .  "^^^^  \^T^^^  of  Elevated  Railroads,  6th  Avenue  Station,  Bleecker 
UNSURPAbSED  !  street  (one  block  in  the  rear) ;  3d  Avenue  Station,  Houston  Street  (two 
blocks  in  front).  The  new  Kapid  Transit  Cable  JLines  passing,  the  doors  run  the 
entire  length  of  Broadway  from  the  Battery  to  Central  Park,  passing  all  the  fashionable 
stores,  theatres,  and  attractions  of  the  city.  All  Cross-Town  Cars  transfer  at  Broadway 
with  the  Cable  Lines,  taking  guests  direct  to  the  Hotel.  Grand  Central  Depot  passen- 
gers can  take  the  4th  Avenue  Cars  direct  to  Bond  Street  (one  block  in  front). 

Passengers  arriving  by  any  of  the  Ferries,  or  either  Foreign  or  Coastwise 
Steamers,  can  take  any  Cross-Town  Car,  or  walk  to  Broadway  and  take  Cable  Cars  direct 
to  the  Hotel  ;  or,  via  the  6th  or  3d  Avemie  Elevated,  stopping  at  Bleecker  Street  on  6th  Ave- 
nue, and  Houston  Street  Station  on  3d  Avenue  line,  three  minutes  from  Hotel. 

THE  OEFTEAL  wiU  te  run  on  toth  the  AMEEIOAN  and  EUEOPEM  PLANS. 

tHE    REGULAR    TARIFF    OF    CHARGES    FOR    EACH    PERSON    WILL    BE 


For  Room  only^  -    -  S^l-OO,  ®  1.50  and  «3. 00   \   According  to  size,  location,  and 

"     e-      1     UT     ?***'^'   ^•^^'      ^-^^       '  K         4-      >  convenience,  and  whethe?^  occu- 

single  Meals   -_-    -    -    -^  -    -    -    -    75  cents    i  jmd  by  one  or  7nore  persons. 


Booms  'With  Parlor  or  Bath,  extra. 

f8r  full  PARTICULARS,    SEND  FOR  CIRCULARS,    MAPS,   AND  OTHER  INFORMATION,   TO 


UNITED  STATES 

HOTEL, 

BOSTON. 


TILLY  HAYNES, 

PROPRIETOR. 
Cable  address  :  "  Tilly. 


BROADWAY  CENTRAL 
HOTEL, 
NEW  YORK. 
15 


INSURANCE  THAT 
— INSURES.^= 


A  Policy  absolutely  without  Restrictions  as  to  occupation,  residence,  travel,  habits  ■ 

Hfe,  or  manner  of  death  ; 
A  Policy  with  but  One  Condition,  namely,  the  payment  of  premiums ; 
A  Policy  with  a  Month's  Grace  in  premium  payments,  and  paid  in  full  in  case  ■ 

death  during  the  month  of  grace,  less  only  the  overdue  premium  with  interes' 
A  Policy  providing  for  Reinstatement  within  six  months  after  lapse,  if  the  insun 

is  in  good  health  ; 
A   Policy  AUTOMATICALLY   nonforfeiting   after   three   annual   premiums   hai 

been  paid,  giving  ordinary  paid-up  insurance  if  request  is  'made  within  s: 

months,  and  term  insurance  for  the  full  amount  of  the  policy  during  a  peric 

shown  therein  if  no  request  is  made  ; 
A  Policy  with  Privilege  of  Cash  Loans  at  5  per  cent  interest,  five  years  after  issue  ; 
A  Policy  with  Six  Options  in  settlement  at  the  end  of  10,  15,  or  20  years  ; 
A  Policy  incontestable  from  any  cause  One  Year  after  issue ; 

THAT'S  THE 

*' Accumulation  Policy' 

.       '  ~  OF   THE 

NEW  YORK 
LIFE  INSURANCE  COMPANY 

JOHN   A.   McCALL,  President, 

346  &  348  BROADWAY,  NEW  YORK. 


Agents    of  integrity   and   ability    wanted   everywhere. 

16 


THE    CATARACT    HOUSE, 

NIAGARA  FALLS,   N.   Y. 

Established  1814, 


BEST  AND    BEST   KNOWN    HOTEL    AT   NIAGARA. 

UNDER    NEW     AND     PBOGBESSIVE     MANAGEMENT. 

Adjoining  State  Reservation,  and  directly  opposite  Goat  Island. 

Only  first-class  Hotel  on  the  American   side   conducted  exclusively  on 
the  American  plan. 

OI>E3Sr    XJIsTTIL    3SrO'VB3VEBEI?,_ 

J.  E.  DEVEREUX)  Manager. 

THE  STORY  OF  COLUMBUS. 

By   ELIZABETH    EGGLESTON    SEELYE. 
Edited  by  Dr.   EDWARD  EGGLESTON. 

With  100  Illustrations  by  Allegra  Eggleston.     12mo.      Cloth,  $1.7.5. 

^'A  brief,  popular,  interesting,  and  yet  critical  volume,  just  such  as  we  should  wish  to 
place  in  the  hands  of  a  young  reader.  "  The  authors  of  this  volume  have  done  their  best  to 
keep  it  on  a  high  plane  of  accuracy  and  conscientious  work  without  losing  sight  of  their 
readers."— i\'ei<;  York  Independent. 

"In  some  respects  altogether  the  best  book  that  the  Columbus  year  has  brought  out." — 
Rochester  Post-Express.  


New  York :    D.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  1,  3,  &  5  Bond  Street. 


17 


Hotel  Florence, 


QUEBEC,   CANADA. 


QSit-eiSfas-ziia  »/>ii 


"THE  FLOKENCE"  is  the  most  pleasant,  attractive,  and  comfortable  house! 
for  tourists  that  can  be  found  on  this  continent.  Its  location  is  unequaled,  and  the 
panoramic  view  to  be  had  from  the  Balcony  is  not  even  surpassed  by  the  world- 
renowned_  Dufferin  Terrace,  as  it  commands  a  full  view  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence, 
the  St.  Charles  Valley,  Montmorency  Falls,  Laurentian  Eange  of  Mountains^  .and 
overlooks  the  largest  part  of  the  city. 

Eooms  with  bath,  ande/i  suites  elegantly  furnished  and  well  ventilated,  and  the 
CUISINE  FIEST  CLASS. 

Street-cars  pass  the  door  every  five  minutes. 

Telephone  communication     Electric  light  and  bell  in  every  room. 

Iron  balconies  and  iron  stairs  from  every  ffoor.     Perfect  safety  assured. 

"  The  Florence"  Hotel  Observation  Cars  run  every  15  minutes  up  to  10.30  p.  m. 
to  the  Basilica,  the  Post-Office,  Grand  Battery,  Dufferin  Terrace,  Court-House,  Gov- 
ernor's Garden,  IJrsuline  Convent,  House  where  Montgomery  was  laid,  City  Hall, 
Union  Club,  Esplanade,  Garrison  Club,  the  foot  of  the  Citadel,  and  the  Parliament 
Buildings. 

"The  Florence"  being  the  centre  of  all  these  interesting  points,  the  round  trip 
from  the  hotel  and  back  is  made  in  30  minutes.  Passengers  are  landed  and  taken  at 
any  point.     Fare,  fi.ve  cents. 

Tourists  staying  at  other  hotels  especially  invited  to  visit  "The  Florence,"  and 
also  enjoy  the  magnificent  view  to  be  had  from  its  veranda. 


BENJ.  TRUDEL,   Proprietor. 


18 


1 


111  JiQiiietica. 

puisiNE  UNSUP\PASSED.     2^eK/i;U/  ^Wafcev,  'Wvobuebot/, 

LATE  OF  THE  ALBEMARLE   HOTEL 
19 


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o 


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o 


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20 


(X-?.^<Hlf<.    \    1964 


»t. 


=5y  be  kept  ou: 

UNITED  bx^i...  ^  D 

CANADA 

lilustrateb 


ITH  KAIL  WAY   MAPS,  PLANS   OF   CITIES,   SPECIAL 

ITINEEAEIES,   TABLE   OF   EAILWAY   AND 

STEAMBOAT   FAEES, 

AND   AN   APPENDIX  DESCEIBING   THE 

COLUMBIAN   EXPOSITION 


REVISED  EACH  YEAR   TO  DATE  OF  ISSUE 


^;  / 


NEW  YORK 

:).  APPLETON  AND  COMPANY 

1893 


'  3SS~ 


-?V0 


Copyright,  1893, 
By  D.   APPLETON  AND  COMPANY. 


x^l  n 


P  E  E  F  A  C  E 


During  the  past  two  years  the  editor  of  the  General 
Guide  has  made  a  trip  over  the  entire  United  States  and 
Canada,  and  also  special  side  trips  to  important  centers,  in- 
cluding Chicago.  The  information  gathered  by  him  has 
been  incorporated  in  the  present  edition. 

Among  the  new  features  will  be  found  : 

1.  Descriptions  of  routes,  resulting  from  increased  rail- 
road facilities. 

2.  Descriptions  of  resorts,  notably  those  on  the  Pacific 
coast. 

3.  The  leading  cities  have  been  visited,  and  the  latest 
information  concerning  each  has  been  gathered  for  this 
work  by  some  special  expert. 

4.  Itineraries  of  the  larger  cities  will  be  found  at  the 
proper  places,  describing  how  the  salient  features  may  be 
seen  in  the  shortest  space  of  time. 

5.  New  plans  and  new  maps  of  the  environs  of  the 
cities  have  been  specially  prepared. 

6.  The  old  illustrations  give  place  to  new  ones,  including 
several  of  the  buildings  of  the  Chicago  Exposition. 

7.  A  specially  prepared  Appendix  containing  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  characteristic  features  of  the  great  World's  Fair. 

The  leading  idea  which  has  governed  the  preparation  of 
this  work  has  been  to  produce  an  American  Guide-Book 
prepared  with  the  special  knowledge  of  an  American.  Each 
year  finds  an  increasing  number  of  our  citizens  who  desire  to 
know  more  about  their  own  country,  and  each  year  brings 
an  increasing  influx  of  foreign  tourists  who  desire  to  see 
those  features  which  are  most  significantly  American.  For 
both  of  these  classes  this  book  is  designed. 

All  the  important  cities  and  great  routes  of  travel  in  the 
United  States  and  Canada  are  carefully  and  minutely  de- 
scribed in  it,  and  also  every  locality  which  is  sufliciently 
visited  for  its  own  sake  to  entitle  it  to  a  place  in  such 
a  work.    At  the  same  time,  it  is  believed  that  the  book  will 


1 V  PREFACE. 

be  not  less  useful  for  what  it  excludes  than  for  what  it  in- 
cludes. In  the  present  work  the  gazetteer  plan  has  been 
deliberately  discarded,  and  mention  is  made  only  of  those 
places,  facts,  and  items  which  are  considered  in  some  way 
interesting  and  worthy  of  attention.  Small  stations  en  route 
are  often  mentioned  in  order  to  indicate  distances  and  rate 
of  progress — in  itself  frequently  a  highly  interesting  item 
of  information  ;  but,  as  a  general  rule,  not  only  are  merely 
local  lines  of  travel  and  oti-route  places  (unless  attractive 
for  special  reasons)  omitted  entirely,  but  the  tourist's  atten- 
tion is  invited  only  to  such  things  as  are  really  worth  atten- 
tion ;  and  the  editor  has  been  much  more  anxious  in  de- 
scribing a  route  to  indicate  the  characteristic  features  of  the 
country  traversed,  and  where  fine  views  may  be  obtained, 
than  to  enumerate  and  describe  all  the  little  stations  at 
which  the  train  may  happen  to  pause. 

As  much  aid  as  possible  is  afforded  to  the  eye  by  print- 
ing the  names  of  places  and  objects  either  in  italics,  or, 
where  they  are  of  sufficient  importance,  in  large-faced  type. 
Objects  worthy  of  special  attention  are  further  distinguished 
by  asterisks  (*). 

The  Plans  of  Cities  also  follow  the  excellent  system  of 
numbered  and  lettered  squares,  with  figures  corresponding 
to  similar  figures  prefixed  to  lists  of  the  principal  public 
buildings,  hotels,  churches,  and  objects  of  interest.  The 
illustrations  afford  a  trustworthy  idea  of  American  architec- 
ture, and,  to  some  extent,  of  American  scenery. 

The  tourist  will  find  in  Appletons'  Canadian  Guide- 
book, Part  I,  Eastern  Canada,  and  Part  II,  Western  Canada, 
full  information  concerning  that  important  division  of  Amer- 
ica which  now  demands  more  space  than  could  be  given  to 
it  in  the  General  Guide.  Both  the  Hand-Book  of  Sum- 
mer Resorts  and  IIand-Book  of  Winter  Resorts,  as  im- 
plied by  their  titles,  treat  very  fully  of  places  frequented 
during  the  summer  and  winter  seasons. 

In  dealing  with  so  many  and  diverse  facts  it  is  probable 
that  some  errors  have  crept  in  and  that  there  are  some 
omissions.  The  book  will  continue  to  receive  a  thorough 
annual  revision,  and  the  editor  will  be  grateful  for  any  cor- 
rections and  suggestions. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

I.  Passports,  Customs  Duties,  etc. xiii 

11.  Currency xiii 

III.  Hotels xiii 

IV.  Conveyances xiv 

V.  Baggage — the  Check  System xv 

VI.  Round-Trip  Excursions xvi 

VII.  Climate  and  Dress xvi 

NEW  ENGLAND  AND  MIDDLE  STATES  AND  CANADA. 
route 

1.  New  York  City 1 

Staten  Island 22 

Coney  Island 23 

Long  Branch 24 

2.  Brooklyn 2.5 

•S.  New  York  to  Philadelphia  : 

a.  Via  Pennsylvania  R.  R.         .        .        .    ' 29 

6.   Fia  "  Bound  Brook  Route  " 31 

c.  Via  Amboy  Div.  of  Penn.  R.  R 31 

4.  Philadelphia 32 

Cape  May 44 

Atlantic  City 45 

5.  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore 46 

6.  Baltimore 47 

7.  Baltimore  to  Washington 54 

8.  Washington  City 54 

Georgetown 65 

Arlington.    Alexandria.    Mount  Vernon 66 

9.  The  Hudson  River 67 

Albany 72 

Troy 73 

10.  The  Catskill  Mountains 74 

11.  New  York  to  Boston  via  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Springfield  77 

12.  New  York  to  Boston  via  Providence 84 

13.  New  York  to  Boston  via  "Air-Line  R.  R." 88 

14.  New  York  to  Boston  via  New  York  &  New  England  R.  R.        .  89 

15.  Steamboat  Routes  to  Boston  ; 

a.  Via  Newport  and  Fall  River 91 

b.  Via  Stonington  Line 94 

c.  Via  Norwich  Line .95 


VI 


contents; 


31. 


41 


ROUTE 

16.  Boston 

Bunker  Hill  Monument     ..'.... 
Cambridge.    Harvard  University 

17.  Boston  to  Portland  via  "Eastern  Shore" 

The  Isles  of  Shoals 

18.  Boston  to  Portland  via  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R, 

19.  Portland  to  the  White  Mountains  : 

a.  Via  Maine  Central  R.  R 

&.  Via  Grand  Trunk  R.  R 

20.  Boston  to  the  White  Mountains  : 

a.  Via  Eastern  Division  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R. 

b.  Via  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  . 

c.  Via  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R. 

21.  The  White  Mountains 

Mount  Washington 
Franconia  Mountains 

22.  Lake  Winnepesaukee    . 

23.  Portland  to  Mount  Desert   . 

24.  Portland  to  Moosehead  Lake  . 

25.  Portland  to  the  Rangelet  Lakes 

26.  Portland  to  Montreal  and  Quebec 

27.  Boston  to  Montreal  via  Lowell  and  Concord 

28.  Boston  to  Montreal  via  Nashua  and  Concord  . 

29.  Boston  to  Montreal  via  Rutland  and  Burlington 

30.  New  York  to  Montreal  and  Quebec  by  the  Connecticut  "Val- 

ley        

New  London  to  Brattleboro 

Boston  to  Plybiouth 

Boston  to  Cape  Cod  

Boston  to  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Nantucket  .... 

Boston  to  Hoosac  Tunnel  and  Trot 

Boston  to  Albany  and  the  West 

Albany  to  Rutland,  Vermont 

The  Housatonic  Valley  and  the  Berkshire  Hills  . 
New  York  to  Vermont  via  Harlem  Div.  of  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  . 
New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  via  New  York  Cen- 
tral AND  Hudson  River  R.  R 

Buffalo         .  ' 

Niagara  Falls 

New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  via  Brie  Lines 

42.  New  York  to  Buffalo  via  West  Shore  R.  R 

43.  New  York  to  Buffalo  via  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western 

R.  R 

Delaware  Water-Gap 

Richfield  Springs 

44.  New  York  to  Montreal  via  Saratoga  and  Lake  Champlain  . 

Saratoga  Springs 


105 
106 
108 
111 
114 

116 
118 

118 
118 
119 
119 
129 
130 
133 
134 
138 
14D 
141 
142 
145 
146 

150 
155 
156 
158 
159 
161 
162 
162 
163 
170 

172 

178 
181 

187 


195 
195 
197 
198 
198 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

ROUTE  PAGE 

45.  New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  via  Lehigh  ValletR.R.  203 

Mauch  Chunk 205 

Wyoming  Valley 207 

46.  Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain 209 

47.  The  Adirondacks 216 

Skeleton  Tours  or  Round  Trips 228 

Lake  Pleasant        .    * 229 

48.  Long  Island 229 

49.  New  York  to  Easton 234 

50.  Philadelphia  to  Harrisburg  and  Pittsburg  .        .        .        .        .235 

51.  Philadelphia  to  Central  New  York      .        .        ,        .        .        .  242 

52.  Philadelphia  to  Albany 242 

Cooperstown 243 

Cherry  Valley 245 

Howe's  Cave 245 

53.  Philadelphia  to  Erie 246 

54.  Philadelphia  to  Buffalo 249 

55.  Philadelphia  to  Lake  Ontario 249 

56.  Philadelphia  to  Reading,  Pottsville,  and  Williamsport.    The 

Coal  Regions 251 

57.  Pittsburg  to  Titusville  and  Buffalo.    The  Oil  Regions  .        .  253 

58.  Harrisburg  to  the  Cumberland  Valley 254 

59.  Baltimore  to  Niagara  Falls 256 

Gettysburg 257 

Watkins  Glen ....  260 

60.  The  St.  Lawrence  River 262 

The  Thousand  Islands 262 

Montreal.    Lachine  Rapids 264 

Quebec 268 

61.  The  Saguenay  River 275 

62.  Ottawa,  Canada 277 

63.  Manitoba 279 

64.  Toronto,  Canada        . --.        .        .        .281 

65.  The  Maritime  Provinces  of  Canada 283 

New  Brunswick 283 

Nova  Scotia 285 

Cape  Breton 287 

Prince  Edward  Island   .........  287 

WESTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  STATES. 

66.  New  York  to  Chicago  via  Niagara  Falls  and  Detroit  : 

a.  Fia  Canada  Div.  of  Michigan  Central  R.  R 289 

b.  Via  Grand  Trunk  Railway 292 

c.  Via  West  Shore  R.  R 296 

67   New  York  to  Chicago  via  Buffalo  and  Cleveland      .        .        .  297 

68.  New  York  to  Chicago  via  Erie  Lines 302, 


VIU  CONTENTS. 

ROUTE  PAGE 

69.  New  York  to  Chicago  via  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg     .        .  306 

70.  New   York   to    Chicago   and   Cincinnati   via    Baltimore    and 

Washington 310 

71.  Chicago 316 

73.  New  York  to  Cincinnati  via  Buffalo  and  Cleveland     ,        .  329 

73.  New  York   to    Cincinnati    via   Philadelphia,  Pittsburg,  and 

Columbus 330 

74.  New  York  to  Cincinnati  via  Erie  Eailwat  and   Connecting 

Lines 334 

7.5.  Cincinnati    .............  335 

76.  Cincinnati  to  Louisville  : 

a.  Via  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R 343 

b.  Via  Ohio  &  Mississippi  R.  R 343 

77.  Louisville 344 

78.  Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis 348 

79.  New  York  to  St.  Louis  via  Cleveland  and  Indianapolis       .  349 

Indianapolis 350 

Wabash  Line 353 

80.  New   York  to  St.  Louis  via  Philadelphia,  Pittsburg,  and  In- 

dianapolis   353 

81.  St.  Louis 355 

82.  Chicago  to  Cincinnati  : 

a.  Via  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  E.  E.     .        .        .  368 

b.  Via  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &_St.  Louis  R.  E.         .        .  368 

83.  Chicago  to  Louisville 369 

84.  Chicago  to  Cairo 370 

85.  Chicago  to  St.  Louis 372 

86.  Chicago  to  Milwaukee  : 

a.  Via  Milwaukee  Div.  of  Chicago  &  Northwestern  R.  R.       .        .  374 

b.  Via  Chicago  Div.  of  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  E.    .        .  374 

87.  Chicago  to  St.  Paul  : 

a.  Via  Milwaukee  and  La  Crosse 377 

b.  Via  Madison  and  Prairie  du  Chien 378 

88.  Chicago  to  St.  Paul .  383 

89.  Chicago  to  Omaha  : 

a.  Via  Chicago  &  Northwestern  E.  E 384 

b.  Via  Chicago,  Eock  Island  &  Pacific  E.  E 385 

c.  Via  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  E.  E 388 

d.  Via  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  E.  E 389 

90.  Omaha  to  San  Francisco 391 

Salt  Lake  City 395 

91.  San  Francisco 401 

92.  The  Yosemite  Valley 411 

93.  California  Eesorts 416 

Southern  California 422 

94.  San  Francisco  to  Portland,  Oregon 426 

95.  Portland  to  Alaska 428 


CONTENTS.  IX 

route  page 

96.  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  Citt  and  Denver  : 

Via  Kansas  Div.  of  Union  Pacific  System 430 

Via  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  Rs.      .        .        .        .        .        ,  432 

97.  Colorado  and  Manitou  Springs 434 

98.  Southern  Colorado  and  New  Mexico       ...               .        .  4.36 

99.  Colorado  Central  Div.  of  the  Union  Pacific  System   .        .  438 

100.  The  Great  Natural  Parks 440 

101.  Kansas  City  to  San  Francisco  via  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa 

Fe  R.  K.  : 

a.  Via  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Short  Line 442 

b.  Via  Northern  Route  via  Colorado  Springs  and  Ogden     .        .        .  449 

c.  Via  the  Southern  Route 450 

102.  Kansas  City  to  City  of  Mexico  via  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa 

Fe  R.  R.  and  the  Mexican  Central  R.  R 452 

103.  St.  Louis  to  Texas  : 

a.  Via  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  R.  R 455 

b.  Via  Iron  Mountain  Route 458 

104.  St.  Louis  to  San  Francisco 461 

105.  The  Great  Lakes ....  461 

106.  St.  Paul  or  Duluth  to  Portland,  Ore.,  and  the  Pacific  Coast 

via  Northern  Pacific  R.  R 472 

The  Yellowstone  Park 476 

107.  St.  Paul  to  the  Pacific  Coast  Ha  the  Great  Northern  Railway  : 

a.  The  Montana  Pacific  Route 489 

b.  The  Manitoba  Pacific  Route 494 

108.  Canadian  Pacific  R.  R.  from  Montreal  to  Vancouver,  B.  C.  .  496 

109.  Baltimore  to  Richmond  and  the  South 499 

110.  Norfolk  and  Portsmouth  to  Atlanta 501 

111.  Washington  to  Richmond  via  Baltimore  &  Potomac  R.  R.    .  503 

112.  Richmond  to  Charleston  : 

a.  Via  Wilmington  and  Florence 506 

b.  Via  Charlotte  and  Columbia 507 

113.  Richmond  to  Savannah  : 

a.  Via  Atlantic  Coast  Line 514 

b.  Via  Columbia  and  Augusta .  514 

114.  Charleston  or  Savannah  to  Jacksonville,  Florida    .        .        .  519 

115.  Jacksonville  to  St.  Augustine 522 

116.  The  St.  John's  River 525 

117.  The  Ocklawaha  River 529 

118.  The  Indian  River  Country 530 

119.  Fernandina  to  Cedar  Key 531 

120.  Middle  Florida 532 

121.  The  Gulf  Coast  and  Key  West 534 

122.  Washington  to  New  Orleans  : 

a.  Via  Atlanta  and  Montgomery 5£6 

b.  Via  Augusta,  Macon,  and  Columbus 540 

123.  Richmond  to  New  Orleans  via  Mobile     .        .        .        .        .    '  .  543 


X  CONTENTS. 

route  page 

124.  Washington  to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans  : 

a.  Via  Great  Souttiern  Mail 543 

b.  Via  Norfolk  &  Western  E.  E.  Luray  Cavern  and  Natural  Bridge .  545 

c.  Via  East  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  E.  E 546 

125.  Charleston  to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans  via  Savannah,  Flor- 

ida &  Western  E.  E 548 

126.  Louisville  to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans     .....  548 

127.  Chicago  and  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans 551 

128.  New  Orleans 552 

129.  New  Orleans  to  San  Francisco  : 

a.  Fia  "  Sunset "  Eoute 560 

b.  Via  Texas  &  Pacific  E.  E 561 

130.  The  Virginia  Mineral-Spring  Eegion 562 

131.  Mountain  Eegion  of  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina,  and 

Georgia 568 

132.  The  Ohio  Eiver .574 

133.  The  Mississippi  Eiver 577 

Chicago  Exposition  Appendix 585 

Table  op  Eailwat  and  Steamboat  Fares   .        .        .               .  600 

Index .  605 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

FACING 

PAGE 

Views  in  New  York 4 

Madison  Square,  New  York 9 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  New  York 14 

The  Accepted  Design  for  the  Tomb  of  General  Grant       .        .  21 

Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia 37 

The  Capitol  at  Washington     .  ■ 59 

Yale  University  Views 78 

Boston  Public  Library 101 

Views  of  Harvard  University 106 

Grain  Elevators  at  Buffalo  .        .        . 179 

Niagara  Falls  from  Prospect  Park 184 

Steel-Works  near  Pittsburg,  Pa 341 

EUNNING  Lachine  Eapids 262 

The  Citadel  at  Quebec 272 

Parliament  Buildings,  Ottawa 277 

University  of  Michigan,  Ann  Arbor 295 

Views  in  Chicago 321 

Mormon  Tabernacle,  Salt  Lake  City 396 

YosEMiTE  Views .'       .  415 

A  New-Mexican  Pueblo 436 

North  Puyallup  Glacier,  Mt.  Tacoma 484 

Lake  Minnetonka 494 

A  Southern  Tobacco  Field 506 

Levee  at  New  Orleans .  558 

Agricultural  Building 586 

Fine  Arts  Building 588 

Manufactures  and  Liberal  Arts  Building 591 

Woman's  Building 594 


MAPS. 

General  Map  of  the  United  States  (in  pocket). 

Map  of  the  Principal  Eailways  in  New  England,  Middle  States,  and 

Canada  :  facing  page  1. 
Map  of  the  Vicinity  of  New  York  :  facing  page  24. 
Map  of  the  Vicinity  of  Philadelphia  :  page  34. 
Map  of  the  Hudson  Eiver  :  facing  page  68. 


Xll  LIST    OF    ILLUSTEATIOT^S. 

Map  of  the  Vicinity  of  Boston  :  page  98. 

Map  of  the  White  Mountains  :  facing  page  120. 

Map  of  Niagara  Falls  and  Vicinity  :  page  182. 

Map  of  the  Adikondacks  :  facing  page  216. 

Map  of  Long  Island  :  page  230. 

Map  of  Through  Routes  South,  and  West  to  Omaha  :  facing  page : 

Map  of  the  Vicinity  of  Chicago  :  page  319. 

Map  of  the  Vicinity  of  Cincinnati  :  page  337. 

Map  of  the  Vicinity  of  St.  Louis  :  page  357. 

Map  of  the  Pacific  Railways  :  facing  page  390. 

Map  of  the  Yosemite  Valley  :  page  413. 

Map  of  the  Yellowstone  Park  :  facing  page  476. 


PLANS  OF  CITIES. 

Baltimore  :  facing  page  46. 
Boston  :  facing  page  96. 
Charleston  :  facing  page  510. 
Chicago  :  facing  page  316. 

World's  Columbian  Exposition  :  General  Plan,  facing  page  585  ;  Bird's 
eye  View,  facing  page  592. 
Cincinnati  :  facing  page  334. 
Montreal  :  facing  page  266. 
New  Orleans  :  facing  page  553. 
New  York  :  facing  page  2. 
Philadelphia  :  facing  page  32. 
Quebec  :  facing  page  270. 
St.  Louis  :  facing  page  354. 
San  Francisco  :  facing  page  400, 
Savannah  :  facing  page  516. 
Washington  City  :  facing  page  54. 


TO     ADVERTISERS. 


The  attention  of  the  proprietors  of  Hotels  and  Summer 
Resorts,  Railroad  and  Steamship  Companies,  and  all  who  de- 
sire to  reach  the  very  best  class  of  Travelers  and  Tourists,  is 
called  to  the  following  publications  of  D.  APPLETON  &  CO., 
as  admirably  adapted  for  that  purpose. 

Full  particulars  will  be  made  known  by  addressing 

HENRY  W.  QUIN, 

t^dveriising  IDcpijrtiveiit,  D    /ppleion  &■  Co., 

I,  3,  &5  Bond  Street,  New  York. 

APPLETONS' 

GENERAL    GUIDE-BOOKS    TO    THE 

UNITED  STATES  AND  CANADA. 

Illustrated.      Tivo  J/oliimes. 
NEW   ENGLAND   AND   MIDDLE    STATES, 

WESTERN  AND   SOUTHERN   STATES, 

And  complete  in  One  Volume 

APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK  OF 
SUMMER    RESORTS. 

One    Volume.     Paper,  50   cents. 

A  clear,  compact,  and  readable  account  of  the  great  Watering-Places  and 
leading    Resorts  of  the    Summer  Tourist. 

GUIDE  TO   CANADA. 

Two    Folnmes. 

Giving  full  descriptions  of  Fishing  and  Shooting    Grounds,  Resorts,    etc. 
A    netv  hook,   zvil-h  Maps  and  Illustrations. 


KOUNTZE  BROTHERS, 

Bankers, 

<20  BROADWAY,  NEW  YORK. 


^     ^z     ^      sic      5fe      ^z     ^z 


Deposits  received  subject  to  check,  and  interest  allowed 
on  balances. 

Government  Bonds  and  other  Securities  bought  and  sold 
for  the  usual  commission. 

State  and  Municipal  Bonds  negotiated.  Information  so- 
licited in  regard  to  any  new  or  proposed  issues  of  Bonds. 

Advances  made  to  correspondents  against  available  col- 
lateral ;  also  approved  business  paper  discounted  or  received 
as  security  for  loans. 

Collections  made  throughout  the  United  States  and  Terri- 
tories, the  British  Provinces  and  Europe. 

Letters  of  Credit,  both  Foreign  and  Domestic,  also  Cir- 
cular Notes  issued  for  the  use  of  travelers,  available  in  all 
parts  of  the  world. 

Cable  Transfers  made  to,  and  Bills  drawn  on.  Great 
Britain,  Ireland  and  the  Continent.  Also  Telegraphic  Trans- 
fers to  various  places  in  the  United  States. 


INTKODUCTION. 


I.  Passports,  Customs  Duties,  etc. 

Passports  are  not  required  in  the  United  States.  The  examinations 
of  baggage  at  the  ocean  ports  and  the  Canadian  frontier  are  usually  eon- 
ducted  in  a  courteous  manner,  but  are  at  times  very  rigid ;  and  the  vis- 
itor from  abroad  will  do  well  to  include  in  his  luggage  only  such  articles 
as  can  be  strictly  regarded  as  of  necessary  personal  use.  The  articles 
most  watched  for  and  guarded  against  by  the  customs  authorities  are  cloth- 
ing (new  and  in  undue  quantity),  silks,  linens,  laces,  cigars,  watches,  jew- 
elry, and  precious  stones.  In  case  of  any  portion  of  the  luggage  being 
found  "  dutiable,"  it  is  best  to  pay  the  charges  promptly  (under  protest), 
and  forward  complaint  to  the  Treasury  Department  at  Washington. 

II.  Currency. 

The  present  currency  of  the  United  States  consists  of  gold  and 
silver  coin,  and  of  United  States  Treasury  notes  (called  "  greenbacks  ") 
and  national-bank  bills  redeemable  in  coin  at  par.  The  fractional  cur- 
rency (which  includes  all  sums  below  a  dollar)  is  of  silver,  with  nickel 
five-cent  pieces,  and  copper  pieces  of  the  value  of  one  and  two  cents. 
In  Canada  the  currency  is  coin,  or  the  notes  of  the  local  banks,  which 
are  at  par.  Foreign  money  is  not  current  in  the  United  States,  but 
may  be  exchanged  for  the  usual  currency  at  the  brokers'  ofiices  at  fixed 
rates.  For  practical  purposes,  a  pound  sterling  may  be  rated  as  equiva- 
lent to  five  dollars  of  American  money,  and  a  shilling  as  equivalent  to 
twenty-five  cents,  or  a  "  quarter."  A  franc  is  equivalent  to  about 
twenty  cents  of  American  money ;  five  francs  to  a  dollar. 

III.  Hotels. 

The  hotels  of  the  United  States  are  commonly  well-equipped  and 
conducted.  In  the  larger  cities  there  are  two  kinds :  those  conducted 
01  what  is  called  the  American  plan,  by  which  a  fixed  charge  includes 
lodgings  and  the  usual  meals  at  table  d^hote ;  and  those  conducted  on 
the  European  plan,  where  the  charge  is  made  for  lodgings  alone,  and 
the  meals  are  taken  a  la  carte  in  the  hotei  or  elsewhere.  At  some 
hotels  the  two  plans  are  combined,  and  the  traveler  has  his  choice 


XI V^  INTRODUCTION.    " 

between  them.  The  charge  at  first-class  hotels  (on  the  American  plan) 
is  from  $3  to  $5  a  day;  but  good  accommodations  may  be  had  at 
houses  of  the  second  class  for  $2  to  $3  a  day.  A  considerable  reduc- 
tion is  usually  made  on  board  by  the  week.  The  charge  for  rooms  at 
hotels  on  the  European  plan  ranges  from  $1  to  $3  a  day.  The  "ex- 
tras "  and  "sundries"  which  make  European  hotel-bills  so  exasperating 
are  unknown  in  America ;  and  the  practice  of  feeing  servants  is  not  so 
general  as  it  is  in  Europe.  The  best  hotels  at  the  various  points  are 
designated  at  their  proper  places  in  the  body  of  the  Guide  ;  they  are 
named  usually  in  alphabetical  order.  At  the  larger  hotels,  besides  a 
reading-room  for  the  use  of  guests,  there  will  nearly  always  be  found 
a  letter-box,  a  telegraph-office,  and  offices  for  the  sale  of  railroad  and 
theatre  tickets. 

IV.  Conveyances. 

The  average  cost  of  travel  by  Railroad  is  two  to  three  cents  a 
mile  in  the  Middle  States  and  New  England,  and  from  three  to  five 
cents  in  the  Western  and  Southern  States.  Children  between  the 
ages  of  five  and  twelve  are  generally  charged  half  price ;  those  under 
five  are  passed  free.  Between  distant  places  which  may  be  reached  by 
competing  lines  there  are  usually  what  are  called  "through  tickets," 
costing  much  less  than  regular  mileage  rates.  These  tickets  are  good 
only  for  the  day  and  train  for  which  they  were  purchased,  and,  if 
the  traveler  wishes  to  stop  at  any  intermediate  point,  he  must  notify  the 
conductor  and  get  a  "stop-over  check,"  Attached  to  all  "through 
trains "  on  the  longer  routes  are  drawing-room  cars,  which  are  richly 
finished  and  furnished,  provided  with  easy-chairs,  tables,  mirrors,  etc., 
and,  being  mounted  on  twelve  wheels,  run  much  easier  than  the  ordinary 
coaches.  Those  attached  to  the  night-trains  are  so  arranged  as  to  be 
ingeniously  converted  into  sleeping-berths,  and  are  provided  with  lava- 
tories in  addition  to  the  usual  conveniences.  From  $2  to  $3  a  day  in 
addition  to  the  regular  fare  is  charged  for  a  seat  or  berth  in  these 
parlor  cars,  or  a  whole  "section"  may  be  secured  at  double  rates.  On 
a  few  of  the  more  important  lines  have  been  placed  what  are  called 
"hotel  or  dining  cars,"  and  on  these  lines  the  "limited"  trains  are 
formed  of  vestibuled  cars,  consisting  of  parlor  and  sleeping  cars,  and 
buffet,  smoking,  and  library  car,  and  a  dining-car. 

Travel  by  Steamboats  is  somewhat  less  expensive  and  less  expeditious 
than  by  rail.  The  ticket  (in  case  of  a  night-passage)  gives  the  right  to 
a  sleeping-berth  in  the  lower  saloon ;  but  the  extra  cost  of  a  state-room 


INTEODUCTION.  XV 

(usually  $2  a  night)  is  more  than  compensated  by  the  greater  comfoit 
and  privac)^  On  the  much-traveled  lines,  state-rooms  should  be  secured 
a  day  or  two  in  advance,  and,  if  possible,  in  the  outside  tier.  Meals  are 
usually  an  extra  on  steamboats,  and  will  cost  about  $1  each  when  the 
service  is  not  d  la  carte. 

The  vast  extension  of  the  railway  system  has  nearly  superseded  the 
old  Stages  and  Coaches^  but  a  few  lines  still  run  among  the  mountains 
and  in  remote  rural  districts.  Where  the  object  is  not  merely  to  get 
quickly  from  point  to  point,  this  is  perhaps  the  most  enjoyable  mode  of 
travel,  and,  in  pleasant  weather,  the  traveler  should  try  to  get  an  outside 
seat.  The  charges  for  stage-travel  are  relatively  high — often  as  much 
as  10c.  or  15c.  a  mile. 

In  all  the  cities  and  larger  towns  there  are  Omnibuses  at  the  station 
on  the  arrival  of  every  train,  which  connect  directly  with  the  principal 
hotels ;  a  small  charge  (usually  50c.)  is  made  for  this  conveyance. 

V.  Baggage— The  Check  System. 

It  is  the  custom  in  America  to  deliver  baggage  to  a  person  known  as 
the  baggage-master,  who  will  in  return  give  a  small  numbered  brass  plate 
(called  a  "  check  ")  for  each  piece,  on  presentation  of  which  the  baggage 
is  delivered.  Baggage  may  be  "  checked  "  over  long  routes  in  this  way, 
and  the  traveler,  no  matter  how  many  times  he  changes  cars  or  vehicles, 
has  no  concern  about  it.  The  railroad  company  are  responsible  if  the 
baggage  should  be  injured  or  lost,  the  "  check  "  being  evidence  of  de- 
livery into  their  hands.  The  traveler,  arrived  at  the  station  or  depot, 
should  first  procure  his  ticket  at  the  ticket-office,  and  then,  proceeding 
to  the  baggage-room  or  proper  station  of  the  baggage-master,  have  his 
trunks  checked  to  the  point  to  which  he  wishes  them  sent.  (The  bag- 
gage-master usually  requires  the  traveler  to  exhibit  his  ticket  before  he 
will  check  the  trunks.)  Arriving  at  his  destination,  the  checks  may  be 
handed  to  the  hotel-porter,  always  in  waiting,  who  will  procure  the 
various  articles  and  have  them  sent  to  the  hotel.  Should  the  owner  be 
delayed  on  the  route,  the  baggage  is  stored  safely  at  its  destined  station 
until  he  calls  or  sends  for  it  (of  course  presenting  the  check).  Beyond  a 
certain  weight  (from  100  to  150  lbs.)  for  each  ticket  bought,  baggage  is 
charged  for  extra ;  and  this  may  become  a  serious  item  where  the  dis- 
tances are  great.  Before  arriving  at  the  principal  cities,  a  baggage  or 
express  man  generally  passes  through  the  cars  and  gives  receipts  (ii; 
exchange  for  checks)  for  delivering  baggage  at  any  point  desired. 


XVI  INTEODUCTION. 

VI.  Round-trip  Excursions. 

Every  summer  the  leading  railway  companies  issue  excursion-tickets 
at  greatly  reduced  prices.  These  excursions  embrace  the  principal  places 
of  interest  throughout  the  country,  and  are  arranged  in  a  graded  series, 
so  that  the  tourist  may  have  choice  of  a  number  of  round  trips  of  a  day 
or  two  to  popular  resorts  near  by,  or  may  make  one  of  the  grand  tours 
to  distant  points  affording  thousands  of  miles  of  travel.  As  the  tickets 
are  good  for  thirty,  sixty,  and  ninety  days,  the  traveler  can  consult  his 
convenience  en  route^  lingering  or  hastening  on  as  he  may  happen  to 
choose.  Lists  of  these  excursions  and  such  information  about  them  as 
may  be  required  can  be  obtained  at  the  central  offices  of  the  various 
companies  in  the  larger  cities,  either  by  personal  application  or  by  letter. 

VII.  Climate  and  Dress. 

Of  course,  in  a  country  so  extensive  as  the  United  States,  the  diifer- 
ences  of  climate  are  very  great,  New  England  and  the  Middle  States 
being  frequently  buried  in  snow  at  the  very  moment  when  the  Southern 
States  are  enjoying  their  most  genial  season,  while  California  has  but 
two  seasons  (the  wet  and  the  dry)  instead  of  the  four  seasons  of  the 
temperate  zone.  It  is  true  of  the  country  as  a  whole,  however,  that  the 
summers  are  hotter  and  the  winters  colder  than  those  of  Europe ;  and 
that  there  is  greater  liability  to  sudden  changes  from  heat  to  cold,  or 
from  cold  to  heat.  For  this  reason  it  is  highly  important  that  the  trav- 
eler should  be  dressed  with  sufficient  warmth ;  it  will  be  better  for  him 
to  suffer  at  noonday  from  too  much  clothing  than  to  expose  himself  at 
night,  in  storms,  or  to  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  with  too  little. 
Woolen  underclothing  should  be  worn  both  summer  and  winter,  and  a 
shawl  or  extra  wrap  should  always  be  on  hand.  At  the  same  time, 
exposure  to  the  vertical  rays  of  the  sun  in  summer  must  be  carefully 
avoided ;  sunstroke  being  by  no  means  unusual  even  in  the  Northern 
cities. 


NEW    ENGLAND   AND   MIDDLE 
STATES    AND    CANADA. 


1.  New  York  City. 

Hotels. — The  best  hotels  include  the  Fifth  Avenue,  the  Hoffman  House, 
the  Holland  House,  the  Waldorf,  the  Windso7\  the  Buckingham,  the  Plaza,  the 
Savoy,  and  the  Nev:  Netherland.  A  fuller  list  is  as  follows  :  On  the  American 
plan,  beginning-  do\vn  town,  the  Metropolitan,  584  Broadway ;  the  Broadicay 
Central,  671  Broadway,  opposite  Bond  St. ;  the  Berkeley,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  9th 
St. ;  the  Gramercy  Park,  35  Gramercy  Park  ;  the  Fifth  Averme,  cor.  Broadway 
and  23d  St.:  the  Cambridge,  334  5th  Ave.;  the  Hotel  Bristol,  cor.  5th  Ave  and 
42d  St.;  the  Vendome,  cor.  Broadway  and  41st  St.;  the  Sheru'ood,  cor.  5th  Ave. 
and  44th  St.;  the  Windsor,  cor.  5th  Av-e.  and  4Gth  St.;  the  Madison  Avenue, 
cor.  Madison  Ave.  and  58th  St.;  and  the  Wiiithro}),  cor.  7th  Ave.  and  125th  St. 
On  the  European  plan  are  the  Asfor  House,  cor.  Broadway  and  Vesey  St. ;  the 
St.  Denis,  cor.  Broadway  and  11th  St. ;  the  Brevoort  House,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and 
Clinton  PI.;  the  Albert,  37  University  PL;  the  Union  Square,  E.  Union  Square 
and  15th  St. ;  the  Westminster,  Irving  PL  and  16th  St. ;  the  Everett  House,  4th 
Ave.  and  17th  St. ;  the  Hotel  de  Logerot,  126  .5th  Ave. ;  the  Belvedere,  4th  Ave. 
and  18th  St.;  the  ISfeu:  Amsterdam,  cor.  4th  Ave.  and  21st  St.;  the  Bartholdi, 
cor.  Broadway  and  23d  St. ;  the  Hoffman  House,  cor.  Broadway  and  25th  St. ;  the 
Albemarle,  cor.  Broadway  and  24th  St. ;  the  St.  James,  cor.  Broadway  and  26th 
St. ;  the  Holland  House,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  30th  St. ;  the  Gilsey  House,  cor.  Broad- 
way and  30th  St.;  the  Grand,  cor.  Broadway  and  31st  St.;  the  Imperial,  cor. 
Broadway  and  S2d  St.;  the  Normandie,  cor.  Broadway  and  38th -St.;  the  St. 
Marc,  .cor.  5th  Ave.  and  39th  St. ;  the  Grand  Union,  cor.  4th  Ave.  and  42d  St. ; 
the  Metropole,  cor.  Broadway  and  42d  St. ;  the  Barrett  House,  cor.  Broadway 
and  43d  St.;  the  Buckingham,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  50th  St.;  the  Lincoln,  cor. 
Broadway  and  52d  St.;  and  the  Grenoble,  cor.  7th  Ave.  and  56th  St.  Both  plans 
are  combined  in  the  following:  the  Clarendon,  cor.  4th  Ave.  and  18th  St.;  the 
Brunsivick,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  26th  St.;  the  Victoria,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  27th  St.; 
the  Sturtevant,  cor.  Broadway  and  29th  St. ;  the  Park  Avenue,  cor.  Park  Ave. 
and  33d  St.;  the  Wa'dorf,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  S3d  St.;  the  Marlborough,  cor. 
Broadw'ay  and  36th  St. ;  the  Oriental,  cor.  Broadwav  and  39th  St. ;  the  Murray 
HUl,  cor.  Park  Ave.  and  40th  St. ;  the  Plaza,  cor.^Sth  Ave.  and  .59th  St. ;  the 
Savoy,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  56th  St. ;  and  the  New  Netherland,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and 
59th  St. 

Kestaurants.— Z>c/wonico'5  (cor.  .5th  Ave.  and  26th  St.),  the  Holland  House 
Cafe  (Fifth  Ave.  and  30th  St.),  the  Cafe  Brunswick  (also  at  the  cor.  of  5th 
Ave.  and  2Gth  St.),  and  Sherry's  (cor.  Fifth  Ave.  and  37th  St.),  are  among 
the  best.  The  St.  Denis  (cer.  Broadway  and  11th  St.),  Clarke  (22  W.  23d  St.), 
PursseWs  (914  Broadway),  and  the  Vienna  Bakery  (cor.  Broadway  and  10th 
St.),  are  of  excellent  repiite,  and  places  where  ladies  or  families  may  lunch  or 
dine.  The  cafes  and  restaurants  attached  to  the  large  hotels  on  the  European 
plan  are  generally  well  kept ;  among  the  best  of  these  are  the  Hoffman  House, 
cor.  Broadway  and  24th  St.;  the  St.  James,  cor.  Broadway  and" 26th  St.;  the 
Coleman  House,  Broadway,  between  25th  and  27th  Sts.;  and  the  Clifton,  6th 
Ave.  and  35th  St.  Delmonico's,  22  Broad  St.  and  at  junction  of  Beaver  and 
William  Sts. ;  Cable's,  130  Broadway ;  the  Hoffmann  House  Cafe,  in  the  Con- 
solidated Stock  and  Petroleum  Exchange,  7  Beaver  and  23  New  Sts.  ;  Suther- 
land's, 64  Liberty  St. ;  the  Cafe  Savarin,  in  the  Equitable  Building,  120  Broad- 
way ;  the  Astor  House,  in  Broadway,  ^are  first-class  restaurants.  ''There  are  a 
number  of  restaurants  where  table-d'hote  dinners  may  be  got  from  5  to  8  p.  m., 
1 


2  NEW  YORK   CITY.  [Eoute  1. 

for  from  7oc.  to  $1.50,  usually  including  wine  ;  of  these  may  be  mentioned  the 
Brunswick,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  2(ith  St.  -^  the  Murray  Bill,  cor.  Park  Ave.  and 
40th  St.  ;  and  Morello's,  4  W  29th  St.  Micadonna's  (42  Union  Square)  and  Mo- 
retWs  (22  E.  2l8t  St.)  have  the  Italian  cuisine,  on  the  table-d''h6te  plan.  There 
are  also  English  chop-houses ;  of  these,  FarrislVs  (64  John  St.),  Browne's  (31 
W.  27th  St.).  and  T/ie  Studio  (332  Gth  Ave.),  are  noted. 

Modes  of  Conveyance.— Elevated  K.  K.— Four  lines  extend  lengthwise 
from  South  Ferry  east  side  of  the  Battery.  The  ?j,d  Ave.  line  runs  to  Chat- 
ham Sq.  (where  passengers  may  transfer  to  2d  Ave.  line),  thence  by  Bowery  and 
3d  Ave.  to  Harlem  River.  This  line  has  a  branch  from  C  ity  Hall  to  Chatham 
Sq.,  one  at  42d  St.  to  Grand  Central  Depot,  and  one  at  34th  St.  for  ferry  to 
Long  Island  City.  The  Chatham  Sq.  branch  connects  with  Brooklyn  Bridge 
cars.  The  stations  of  3d  Ave.  line  are  :  Battery,  foot  Whitehall  St. ;  in  Pearl 
St.,  at  Hanover  Sq.,  at  cor.  of  Fulton  St.,  at  I^ranklin  Sq.  ;  and  at  Chatham 
Sq. ;  in  Bowery,  cor.  Canal,  Grand,  and  Houston  Sts. ;  in  3d  A.\e.,  cor.  9th,  14th, 
18th,  23d,  28th,  34th,  42d.  47th,  53d,  59th,  67th,  7Cth,  84th,  8Cth.  98th,  106th, 
116th,  125th,  and  120th  Sts.  (Harlem  River).  The  &th  Ave.  line  starts  from  Bat- 
tery, foot  of  Whitehall  St.,  and  has  stations  at  Battery  Place  cor.  Greenwich 
St.,  in  New  Church  St.,  cor.  of  Rector  St.,  and  Cortlandt  St.;  in  Church  St., 
cor.  Park  PI.;  in  W.  Broadway,  cor.  Chambers  St.,  and  Franklin  St.;  in  S.  5tli 
Ave.,  cor.  Grand  St.,  and  Bleecker  St. ;  in  6th  Ave.,  cor.  8th,  14th,  18th,  23d,  28th, 
33d,  42d,  50th,  and  58th  Sts.  ;  in  8th  Ave.,  cor.  53d  St.;  in  9th  Ave.,  cor.  59th, 
66t.i,  72d,  81st,  93d,  and  104th  Sts.  ;  and  in  8th  Ave.  again,  cor.  116th,  125th,  135th, 
145th,  and  155th  Sts.  (Harlem  River).  -Certain  trains  run  only  to  58th  St.,  cor. 
6th  Ave.  The  line  connects  at  cor.  42d  St.  and  6th  Ave.  with  Grand  Central 
Depot  by  surface  cars.  The  Mh  Ave.  line  starts  from  Battery,  foot  Whitehall 
St.;  stations  at  Uattery  Place,  in  Greenwich  St.,  cor.  Rector,  Cortlandt,  Barclay, 
Warren,  Franklin,  Desbrosses,  Houston,  and  Christopher  Sts.;  and  in  9th  Ave., 
cor.  14th,  23d,  30th,  34th,  42d.  50th,  and  59th  Sts.,  at  the  last-named  station  con- 
necting with  the  6th  Ave.  line.  The  2d  Ave.  line  starts  at  Battery,  running  on 
the  same  track  as  the  3d  Ave.  line  to  Chatham  Sq.  It  has  stations  in  Allen  St., 
cor.  Canal,  Grand,  and  Rivington  Sts.;  in  1st  Ave.,  cor.  1st,  8th,  14th,  and  19th 
Sts.;  in  23d  St.,  bet.  1st  and  2d  Aves.  ;  and  in  2d  Ave.,  cor.  34th,  42d,  50t.h,  57th, 
65th,  80th,  86th,  92d,  99th,  111th,  117th,  121st,  127th,  and  129th  Sts.  (Harlem 
River),  v/here  it  connects  with  the  Suburban  line  to  16Gth  St.  The  trains  run 
at  intervals  of  about  4  minutes.  On  Sundays  the  traiiis  run  on  all  the  lines,  but 
at  somewhat  longer  intervals  ;  and  at  night  from  12.30  a.  m.  to  5.30  a.  m.  trains 
run  on  the  0th  Ave.  road  every  half -hour,  and  the  3d  Ave.  line  every  quarter- 
hour.  Fares  are  5  cents  on  all  the  lines.  Express  trains  morning  and  evening 
make  but  4  stops  bet.  23d  and  155th  Sts.,  on  9th  Ave.  line,  and  make  sharp  con- 
nection with  express  trains  on  the  New  York  &  Northern  R.  R. 

Street-Cars,  etc.— Broadivay  Line,  from  South  Ferry  through  Whitehall 
St.  to  Broadway,  thence  along  Broadway  to  44tb  St.,  thence  through  7th  Ave. 
to  Central  Park.  The  4th  Ave.  to  138th  St.  (Mott  Haven);  and  the  3d  Ave. 
to  Harlem,  start  from  the  Post-Office  ;  the  Qth  Ave.  line  to  Central  Park  starts 
from  Broadway,  cor.  Vesey  St.  ;  while  the  8fh  Ave.  line,  starting  from  the 
same  place,  runs  to  14.5th  St.  There  are  cross-town  lines  along  Broadway  at 
Chambers  St.,  at  Canal  St.,  at  Grand  St.,  at  Prince  St.,  at  Houston  St.,  at 
,8th  St.,  at  14th  St.,  at  23d  St.,  at  34th  St.,  at  42d  St.,  at  59th  St.,  and  at  125th 
St. ;  and  the  Bleecker  St.  cars  from  Fulton  Ferry  by  Broadway  and  Bleecker 
St.  to  W.  23d  St.  Ferry.  The  Belt  Line  runs  from  South  Ferry  to  Central  Park, 
the  E.  branch  passing  all  ferries  on  East  River ;  the  W.  branch,  all  ferries  on 
Noith  River.  The  Boulevard  Line  runs  from  E.  34th  St.  to  42d  St.,  to  Boule- 
vard at  72d  St.,  to  Fort  Lee  Ferrv,  W.  129th  St. ;  with  a  branch  from  92d  St.,  East 
River,  to  110th  St.,  to  St.  Nicholas  Ave.,  to  foot  of  W.  129th  St.  Fare  on  all  the 
lines  5c.  A  Cable  line  runs  from  foot  of  E.  125th  St.  west  to  10th  Ave.,  to  187th 
St.,  past  High  Bridge.  Stages  run  from  Bleecker  St.  through  S.  5th  Ave.  to 
5th  Ave.,  to  86th  St.  Hackney-coaches  have  stands  in  different  parts  of  the 
city,  and  attend  the  arrival  of  every  train  and  steamboat.  A  tariff  of  fares  is  or 
ought  to  be  hung  in  each  carriage.  Disputed  questions  as  to  time,  distance,  or 
price,  must  be  settled  at  the  Mayor's  office  (City  Hall).  The  legal  rates  for  cabs 
are,  for  one  or  more  passengers  for  a  distance  of  1  m.  or  less,  50c.,  and  25c. 
each  half-mile  additional ;  coaches,  $1  for  1  m.,  and  40c.  additional  for  each 
half-mile.    The  principal  hotels  have  carriages  in  waiting  for  the  use  of  guests. 


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NEW  YORK 

BROOKLYN  &  JERSEY  CITY. 


im 


Eoute  1.]  NEW    YORK    CITY.  3 

Railroad  Stations. — The  Grand  Central  Station,  in  42d  St.,  between  Lex- 
ington and  Madison  Avenues,  is  used  by  most  of  the  passenger  trains  of  the 
New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.,  the  New  York  &  Harlem  Div.,  and 
New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  The  Harlem  River  branch  to  New 
RochelJe  starts  from  132d  St.  and  2d  Ave.  Local  trains  to  Spuyten  Duyvel 
(Hudson  River  R.  R.)  leave  the  station  at  10th  Ave.  and  30th  St.  The  depot  of 
the  Pennsylvania  R.  E.  (in  Jersey  City),  the  Neiv  York,  Susquehanna  &  West- 
ern B.  B.,  iSorthern  Bailroad  of  New  Jersey,  Nevj  Tc/rJc  &  Greemvood  Lake 
B.  B.,  and  New  Jersey  dfe  New  York  B.  B.  is  reached  by  ferries  from  foot  of 
Desbrosses  and  Cortlandt  Sts.;  the  Erie  from  foot  of  Chambers  and  W.  23d 
Sts.;  the  West  Shore  E.  B.  and  Neiv  York,  Ontario  &  Western  E.  E.,  same  as 
Penn.  R.  R.,  Jersey  City  ;  also  at  Weehawken,  by  ferry  from  foot  of  W.  42d  St. ; 
the  Lehigh  Valley  E.  E.  and  the  Central  of  Neiv  Jersey  from  foot  of  Liberty  St. ; 
the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  cfc  Western  from  foot  of  Barclay  and  Christopher 
Sts.;  the  Long  Lsland  B.  B.,  from  James  Slip  and  foot  E.  34th  St. 

Ferries.— There  are  ferries  to  Brooklyn  from  foot  of  Whitehall  St.,  Wall  St., 
Fulton  St.,  and  Catherine  St. ;  to  East  Brooklyn  (Wilhamsburgh)  from  foot  of 
Roosevelt  St.,  Grand  St.,  E.  Houston  St.,  and  E.  23d  St.;  to  Gi'eenpoint  from 
foot  of  IGth  and  E.  23d  Sts. ;  to  Long  Island  City  from  James  Slip  and  foot  of 
E.  34th  St.  To  Jersey  City  from  foot  of  Liberty  St.,  Cortlandt  St.,  Desbrosses 
St.,  Chambers  St.,  and  W.  23d  St.  To  Hoboken  from  foot  of  Barclay  St..  foot 
of  Christopher  St.,  and  foot  of  W.  14th  St.  To  Weehaiuken  from  foot  of  Jay 
St.  and  W.  42d  St.  To  Fort  Lee  from  foot  of  Canal  (touching  at  W.  22d  St.)  and 
W.  129th  St.  To  Staten  Island,  to  St.  George's,  from  foot  of  Whitehall  St..  east 
side  of  the  Battery.  To  Astoria  from  foot  of  E.  92d  St.  and  foot  of  E.  34th  St. 
(to  Long  Island  City,  thence  by  cars)  ;  and  by  boat  from  Pier  22,  East  River. 
To  BlackwelVs,  BandaWs,  and  Ward's  Islands  from  foot  of  E.  26th  St. 

Churches. — There  are  nearly  .500  churches  of  all  denominations  in  the  city, 
and  at  any  of  them  the  visitor  is  sure  of  a  polite  reception.  The  following  are 
the  principal  of  those  whose  Stmday  services  are  most  attended  by  strangers  : 
Trinity  Church  (Episcopal),  in  Broadway,  opposite  Wall  St.,  with  cathedral 
choral  service;  Trinity  Chapel  (Episcopal),  25th  St.,  near  Broadway;  St. 
George's  (Episcopal),  in  Stuyvesant  Square,  E.  16th  St.;  Grace  Church  (Ejoisco- 
pal),  Broadway,  near  10th  St.,  fine  music;  and  St.  Mary  the  Virgin  (Ritual- 
istic), 223  W.  4.5th  St.  Of  the  Roman  Catholic  churches,  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
Patrick  (,5th  Ave.  between  50th  and  51st  Sts.),  St.  Leo's  (11  E.  28th  St.),  and  St. 
Stephen's  (149  E.  28th  St.,  famed  for  its  musical  services)  are  most  attended. 
The  Presbyterian  churches  of  Dr.  John  Hall  (cor.  .5th  Ave.  and  5oth  St.)  and  the 
Brick  Church  (5th  Ave.  and  37th  St.)  are  very  popular  ;  also  the  Methodist  Madi- 
son Avenue  Church  (cor.  60th  St.  and  Madison  Ave.);  the  Unitarian  Church 
of  All  Souls  (cor.  4th  Ave.  and  20th  St.),  and  the  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Dr. 
Robert  Collyer,  cor.  Park  Ave.  and  34th  St.);  the  Universalist  Church  of  the 
Divine  Paternity  (cor.  5th  Ave.  and  4.5th  St.).  Among  the  Baptist  churches 
are  Fifth  Avenue  (6  W.  46th  St.)  and  Judson  Memorial  (S.  Washington  Square)  ;  . 
the  Congregational  Tabernacle  (cor.  Broadway  and  34th  St.);  the  Reformed 
Dutch  Collegiate  Churches  (cor.  .5th  Ave.  and  29th  St.  and  cor.  5th  Ave.  and 
48th  St.)  ;  the  Swedenborgian  Church  (114  E.  3.5th  St.):  the  Moravian  (cor.  Lex- 
ington Ave.  and  30th  St.)  ;  and  the  Church  of  the  Strangers  (259  Mercer  St., 
near  8th  St.).  The  Sabbath  (Saturday)  services  of  the  Jewish  Temple  Emanuel 
(5th  Ave.  cor.  43d  St.)  are  very  impressive,  and  the  interior  decorations  of  the 
building  remarkably  rich.  The  newspapers  on  Saturday  and  Sunday  give  the 
place  and  time  of  the  most  important  ser\  ices  of  the  ensuing  Sunday. 

Theatres  and  Amusements.— The  Metropolitan  CJpera-House,  in  Broad- 
way, between  39th  and  4Gth  Sts.  (destroyed  bj^  fire,  but  to  be  reconstructed), 
is  the  home  of  the  grand  opera  during  the  winter  season,  and  many  of  the 
large  balls  are  given  there,  as  well  as  of  the  Vaudeville  Club.  Other  places 
of  amusement  include  the  Academy  of  Music,  Irving  Place,  cor.  14th  St.;  Am- 
berg  Theatre,  Irving  Place  and  14th  St. ;  Bijou  Theatre,  Broadway,  between  30th 
and  31st  Sts.  ;  Broadway  Theoire,  cor.  Broadway  and  41st  St.  ;  Casino,  cor. 
Broadway  and  39th  St.;  Columbus  Theatre,  112  E.  125th  St.;  Daly's  Theatre, 
cor.  Broadway  and  30th  St.;  Empire  Theatre,  cor.  Broadway  and  40th  St.; 
Fifth  Avenue  Theatre,  cor.  Broadway  and  28th  St. ;  Fourteenth  "St.  Theatre,  W. 
14th  St.,  near  6th  Ave. ;  Garden  Theatre,  cor.  Madison  Ave.  and  27th  St. ;  Grand 
Opera-House,  cor.  8th  Ave.  and  23d  St.;  Harlem  Opera-House,  125th  St.,  west 


4  NEW  YOKK  CITY.  [JRonte  1. 

of  7th  Ave.;  Hailem  Theatre,  E.  l'25th  St.,  near  8d.  Ave.;  EarrigarCs  Theatre^ 
35th  St.  and  6th  Ave.  ;  Herrman's  Theatre,  cor.  Broadway  and  29th  St.  ;  Lon- 
don Theatre,  235  Bowery;  the  Lyceum  Opera-House,  160  E.  34th  St.;  Lyceum 
Theatre,  4th  Ave.  near  23d  St.;  Madison  Square  Theatre,  24th.  St.,  west  of 
Broadway;  Manhattan  Opera-House,  E.  34th  St.,  near  Broadway;  Niblo's  Gar- 
den, 570  Broadway,  near  Prince  St.  ;  Palmer''s  Theatre,  Broadway  and  30th 
St.;  Park  Theatre,  cor.  Broadway  and  35th  St.;  Proctw's  Theatre,  139  W.  23d 
St.;  Standard  Theatre,  Broadway  and  33d  St.;  Star  Theatre,  Broadway  and 
13th  St.  ;  and  TJrdon  Square  Theatre,  14th  St.,  near  Broadway.  CMckering 
Hall,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  18th  St.,  and  Music  Hall,  cor.  .57th  St.  and  7th  Ave.,  are 
concert  and  music  halls.  The  Cyclorama  Building  is  at  the  corner  of  18th  St. 
and  4th  Ave.  The  Eden  Mvsee,  "in  23d  St.,  between  5th  and  0th  Aves.,  is  de- 
voted to  wax-works.  Summer-night  concerts  are  given  at  the  Lenox  Lyceum, 
cor.  Madison  Ave.  and  59th  St.,  and  at  Madison  Square  Garden,  Madison  Ave. 
and  2Gth  St.  Horse-races  at  Morris  Park,  under  the  auspices  of  the  N.  Y.  Jockey 
Club  ;  and  at  Sheepshead  Bay  near  Coney  Island,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Coney  Island  Jockey  Club,  near  Brooklyn. 

Keaclmg-Kooins.— -The  Astor  Library,  Lafayette  Place,  near  8th  St., 
contains  270,000  volumes ;  open  from  9  A.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  (in  winter,  4  p.  m.). 
The  Cooper  Institute,  cor.  4th  Ave.  and  8th  St.  (32,000  volumes),  is  open  to  all 
from  8  A.  M.  to  10  p.m.,  on  Sunday,  10  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.  in  winter.  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association  has  free  reading-rooms  at  4th  Ave.  cor.  23d  St.",  and  at 

5  W.  125th  St.— both  open  from  8  A.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  The  Mercantile  Library, 
Astor  Place  near  Broadway  (240,000  volumes),  has  an  excellent  reading-room, 
to  which  strangers  are  admitted  on  introduction  by  a  member.  The  libraries 
at  Columbia  College  and  the  College  of  the  City  of  New  Fork  are  large.  The 
New  York  Free  Circulating  Library,  \Nii\i  about  30,000  volumes,  49  Bond  St., 
and  branches  at  135  2d  Ave.,  226  W.  42d  St.,  and  251  W.  13th  St.,  are  open  to 
all.  The  Society  Library  (90,000  volumes),  67  University  Place,  founded  1757,  is 
the  oldest  in  the  city.  The  library  of  the  Historiccd  Society,  2d  Ave.,  opposite 
St.  Mark's  Church,  is  rich  in  documents  relating  to  Revolutionary  and  colonial 
history  ;  and  the  Geographiccd  Society  has  a  valuable  series  of  maps,  etc.,  in  its 
rooms.  No.  11  W.  29th  St.  These  are  accessible  by  introduction  of  a  member. 
The  Harlem  Library,  2238  3d  Ave.  and  123d  St.,  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  city. 

Art  Collections.— At  the  National  Academy  of  Design  (cor.  4th  Ave.  and 
23d  St.)  there  are  annual  exhibitions  of  recent  works  of  American  artists  (en- 
trance, 25c.).  The  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  (5th  Ave.  and  82d  St.)  has  a 
fine  collection  of  paintings  by  old  and  modern  masters,  and  usually  has  on  exhi- 
bition paintings  loaned  by  the  wealthy  virtuosi  of  the  city,  including  pictiu-es 
by  American  artists,  statuary,  pottery  and  porcelain-ware,  arms  and  armor, 
coins  and  medals,  antiques,  and  various  articles  of  vertu.  It  also  contains  the  fa- 
mous Cesnola  Collection  of  Cypriote  Antiquities.  It  is  open  daily  from  10  A.  m. 
till  sunset,  and  on  Sundays  from  1  p,  m.  ;  also  on  Tuesday  and  Saturday  even- 
ings, from  8  to  10  p.  m.  At  the  Historiccd  Society  (cor.  11th  St.  and  2d  Ave.)  is 
a  gallery  of  paintings  with  many  old  portraits,  the  Abbott  Collection  of  Egyp- 
tian Antiquities,  the  Lenox  Collection  of  Isineveh  Sculptures,  etc.,  admission 
by  card  from  member.  The  Lenox  Library  (cor.  5th  Ave.  and  70th  St.)  contains 
a  fine  collection  of  paintings:  admission  free.  The  American  Art  Gallery,  6  E. 
23d  St.,  has  frequent  exhibitions  of  pictures  and  bric-a-brac.  There  are  usually 
pictures  on  exhibition  at  the  sales-galleries  of  Knoedler,  cor.  5th  Ave.  and  22d 
St.;  Schaus,  .5th  Ave.,  near  25th  St.;  Avery.  368  Fifth  Ave.;  and  Cottier,  144  5th 
Ave.  Many  artists'  studios  may  be  found  in  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Asso- 
ciation Building,  cor.  4th  Ave.  and  23d  St.;  Studio  Building,  cor.  4th  Ave.  and 
25th  St.  ;  the  Sherivood,  .57  W.  57th  St. ;  the  Bembrandt,  1.52  W.  57th  St. ;  and 
the  Studio  Building,  51  W.  10th  St.  The  best  private  collections  in  the  city 
are  those  of  August  Belmont,  John  Hoey,  John  Wolfe,  Henry  G.  Marquand, 
Thomas  B.  Clark,  William  Rockefeller,  Robert  Hoe.  and  Mrs.  W.  H.  Vander- 
bilt.  Admission  to  these  may  be  obtained  by  sending  a  letter  (inclosing  card) 
to  their  owners. 

Clubs. — The  principal  are  the  Century.  7  W.  43d  St.  ;  the  Knickerbocker, 
319  5th  Ave.  ;  the  Manhattan,  5th  Ave.  cor.  34th  St. ;  the  Union,  1  W.  21st  St. ; 
the  TJnion  League,  1  E.  39th  St.;  the  Lotos,  149  5th  Ave.;  the  Players,  16  Gram- 
ercy  Park ;  the  Neiv  York,  2  W.  35th  St. ;  the  St.  Nicholas,  386  5th  Ave.  ;  the 
University,  Madison  Ave.  and  26th  St.  ;  the  Calumet,  267  Fifth  Ave. ;  the  Prog- 


l£^intif^Jff>u^'eSr/t.f.a?'e. 


Views  in  New  York. 


Route  i.]  NEW    YORK    CITY.  5 

ress,  5tli  Ave.  cor.  63cl  St. ;  tlie  Democratic,  617  5tli  Ave. ;  and  the  New  York 
Athletic,  104  W.  55th  St.  Admission  to  these  is  obtained  only  through  intro- 
duction by  a  member. 

Post-bffice.— The  General  Post-Oflice,  at  the  southern  end  of  City  Hal] 
Park,  is  open  continuously,  except  Sundays,  when  it  is  open  only  from  9  to  11 
A.M.  There  are  also  2n'sub-post-oflices' in  the  city,  called  "Stations,"  and 
alphabetically  named;  these  are  open  from  7  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m.  ;  on  Sundays, 
from  9  to  11  A.  m.  Letters  may  also  be  mailed  in  the  lamp-post  boxes  (of  which 
there  are  700),  or  at  any  hotel. 

Xew  York  City,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  United  States, 
and  largest  city  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  is  situated  on  New  York 
Bay,  in  latitude  about  41°  N.  and  longitude  71°  W.  from  Greenwich  (3° 
1'  13"  E.  from  Washington),  at  the  junction  of  the  Hudson  or  North 
River,  which  washes  its  western  shore,  and  of  the  East  River,  as  the 
narrower  portion  of  Long  Island  Sound  is  named,  which  separates  it 
from  Brooklyn  It  occupies  the  entire  surface  of  Manhattan  Island ; 
Randall's,  Ward's,  and  Blackwell's  Islands  in  the  East  River;  and  a  por- 
tion of  the  mainland,  annexed  from  Westchester  County,  north  of  Man- 
hattan Island  and  separated  from  it  by  Hai'lem  River  and  Spuyten  Duy- 
vel  Creek.  Governor's,  Bedloe's,  and  Ellis's  Islands,  in  the  Bay,  are 
used  by  the  United  States  Government.  Ellis's  Island  has  recently  been 
selected  as  the  landing-place  of  immigrants.  The  extreme  length  north 
from  the  Battery  is  16  miles;  greatest  width  from  the  Hudson  to  the 
mouth  of  Bronx  River,  4J^  miles;  area,  nearly  41 A  square  miles,  or  26,- 
500  acres,  of  which  12,100  acres  are  on  the  mainland.  Manhattan 
Island,  on  which  the  city  proper  stands,  is  13^  miles  long,  and  varies  in 
breadth  from  a  few  hundred  yards  to  2f  miles,  having  an  area  of  nearly 
22  square  mile's.  The  older  portion  of  the  city  below  14th  St.  is  some- 
what irregularly  laid  out.  The  plan  of  the  upper  part  includes  avenues 
running  N.  to  the  boundary  of  the  island,  and  streets  running  across 
them  at  right  angles  from  river  to  river.  The  avenues  are  numbered 
from  the  east  to  12th  Ave.;  east  of  1st  Ave.  in  the  widest  part  of  the 
city  are  Aves.  A,  B,  C,  and  D.  Above  21st,  between  3d  and  4th  Aves., 
is  Lexington  Ave.,  and  above  23d  St.,  between  4th  and  5th  Aves.,  is 
Madison  Ave. ;  6th  and  Yth  Aves.  are  intersected  by  Central  Park. 
Above  59th  St.,  on  the  Avest  side,  8th  Ave.  is  known  as  Central  Park, 
west,  9th  Ave.  as  Columbus  Ave.,  10th  Ave.  as  Amsterdam  Ave.,  11th 
xive.  as  West  End  Ave.,  while  extending  along  the  line  of  the  river  is 
Riverside  Ave.  St.  Nicholas  Ave.  starts  from  110th  St.  and  Lenox, 
which  is  the  name  given  to  6th  Ave.  above  Central  Park,  and  extends 
irregularly  northward.  Manhattan  Ave.  extends  northward  from  100th 
St.  to  123d  St.,  and  thence  westward  to  130th  St.  and  North  River. 
Morningside  Ave.,  east  and  west,  are  on  either  side  of  Morningside  Park, 
between  110th  and  123d  St.  Alaove  12oth  St.  and  in  the  annexed  dis- 
trict the  avenues  and  streets  are  still  somewhat  irregular.  The  streets 
are  numbered  consecutively  N.  to  225th  St.,  at  the  end  of  the  island ; 
21  blocks,  including  streets,  average  a  mile.  The  house-numbers  on 
the  avenues  run  N. ;  those  on  the  streets  E.  and  W.  from  5th  Ave. 
The  city  is  compactly  built  to  Harlem,  about  8i  miles  from  the  Battery. 
Distances  are  usually  calculated  from  the  City  Hall, 


6  NEW   YORK   CITY.  [Route  1. 

The  harbor  of  New  York  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  picturesque 
in  the  world.  The  outer  bar  is  at  Sandy  Hook,  18  miles  from  the  Bat- 
tery, and  is  crossed  by  two  ship-channels,  either  of  which  admits  vessels 
of  the  heaviest  draught.  On  the  steamers  from  Europe  the  American 
coast  is  usually  first  sighted  at  the  line  of  the  Navesink  Highlands,  or 
off  Fire  Island  Light,  and  the  bar  is  crossed  soon  after.  As  the  steamer 
enters  the  Bay  and  sails  through  the  Narrows,  between  the  villa-crowned 
shores  of  Staten  and  Long  Islands,  on  the  left  are  seen  the  massive  bat- 
tlements of  Fort  Wadsworth  and  Fort  TompMns  ;  while  opposite,  on  the 
Long  Island  shore,  are  Fort  Hamilton  and  old  Fort  Lafayette^  the  latter 
more  famous  as  a  political  prison  than  as  a  fortress.  Passing  amid  these 
fortifications,  the  panorama  of  city  and  harbor  rapidly  unfolds  itself.  To 
the  left  is  Bedloe's  Island,  the  site  of  the  colossal  statue  of  Liberty,  by 
Bartholdi  (see  p.  19);  Ellis's  Island,  with  the  immigration  bureau,  stands 
still  farther  toward  the  Jersey  shore ;  and  to  the  right  is  Governor's  Isl- 
and, with  Castle  William  and  old  Fort  Columbus.  Directly  ahead,  the  city 
opens  to  view,  with  Brooklyn  on  the  right  and  Jersey  City  on  the  left. 

The  site  of  New  York  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  Giovanni  de  Ver- 
razzauo,  a  Florentine  mariner,  in  1524  ;  but  authentic  history  begins  with  the 
visit  of  Henry  Hudson,  an  Englishman  in  the  service  of  the  Dutch  East  India 
Company,  who  arrived  there  Sept.  3, 1609.  Hudson  afterward  ascended  the  river 
as  far  as  the  site  of  Albany,  and  claimed  the  land  by  right  of  discovery  as  an 
appanage  of  Holland.  In  1614  a  Dutch  colony  came  over  and  began  a  settle- 
ment. At  the  close  of  that  year  the  future  metropolis  consisted  of  a  small  fort 
(on  the  site  of  the  present  Bowling  Green)  and  four  houses,  and  was  known  as 
New  Amsterdam.  As  late  as  1648  it  contained  but  1,000  inhabitants.  In  1684 
it  was  surrendered  to  the  British,  and,  passing  into  the  hands  of  the  Duke  of 
York,  was  thenceforward  caUed  New  York.  '  In  1G67  the  city  contained  384 
houses.  In  1700  the  population  had  increased  to  about  6,000.  In  1696  Trinity 
Church  was  founded.  In  1711  a  slave-market  was  established  in  Wall  Street ; 
and  in  1725  the  Neiv  York,  Gazette  was  started.  The  American  army  under 
Washington  occupied  the  city  in  1776  ;  but  after  the  battles  of  Long  Island 
and  Harlem  Heights,  it  was  captured  by  the  British  forces,  and  remained  their 
headquarters  for  7  years.  The  British  troops  evacuated  the  city  Nov.  25,  1783. 
Within  ten  years  after  the  War  of  Independence.  Kew  York  had  doubled  its 
population.  In  1807  the  first  steamboat  was  put  on  the  Hudson  ;  the  completion 
of  the  Erie  Canal  followed  in  1825  :  and  since  that  time  the  gi'owth  of  the  city 
has  been  rapid.  Its  population  in  1800  was  60,489  ;  it  was  123,706  in  1820,  515,- 
847  in  1850,  812,869  in  1860,  942,377  in  1870,  1,206,590  in  1880, 1,515,301  in  1890,  and 
1,801,739  (State  census)  in  1892.  Commerce  and  industry  have  kept  pace  with 
the  population.  More  than  half  the  foreign  commerce  of  the  United  States  is 
carried  on  through  the  customs  district  of  which  this  is  the  port,  and  about  two 
thirds  of  the  duties  are  here  collected.  In  1890  the  exports  from  this  port  were 
of  the  value  of  $347,500,252,  and  the  imports  $542,366,800.  The  manufactures  of 
New  York,  though  secondary  in  importance  to  its  commercial  and  mercantile 
interests,  are  varied  and  extensive.  In  the  value  of  products,  in  1890,  it  was  the 
first  city  in  the  Union,  the  whole  number  of  manufacturing  establishments  be- 
ing over  14,000,  employing  351,757  hands,  and  producing  goods  valued  at  $763,- 
833,923. 

The  *  Battery  is  a  pretty  little  park  at  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  city,  looking  out  upon  the  Bay,  and  protected  by  a  massive  granite 
sea-wall.  It  was  the  site  of  a  fort  in  the  early  years  of  the  city,  and 
later  was  the  fashionable  quarter.  At  the  S.  W.  end  is  Castle  Garden^ 
where  an  aquarium  is  soon  to  be  built.  At  the  S.  end  is  the  U.  S. 
Revenue  barge-office.  From  the  pier  adjoining  boats  start  for  The 
Statue  of  Liberty  on  Bedloe's  Island  every  hour  from  6  a.  m.  to  Y.SO  p.  m. 


Route   i.]  NEW    YOEK    CITY.  7 

(round  trip,  25c.).  Next  to  it  is  the  ferry  to  Staten  Island.  Just  E.  of 
the  Battery  is  Whitehall  St.,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  the  South,  Hamil- 
ton, and  39th  St.  Ferries  to  Brooklyn,  where  the  lines  of  the  elevated 
railways  converge.  South  St.,  beginning  here,  follows  the  East  River 
shore  for  over  2  miles,  passing  the  East  River  piers  and  the  Long  Island 
ferries,  while  West  St.  skirts  the  shore  of  the  Hudson  (or  North)  River 
for  2  miles,  passing  the  North  River  piers,  and  the  ferries  to  the  Jer- 
sey shore.  A  little  higher  up  Whitehall  St.  is  the  U.  S.  Army  Build- 
ing. Just  N.  of  the  Battery,  at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  is  Bowling 
Green,  the  cradle  of  New  York,  and  in  Revolutionary  times  the  resi- 
dential end  of  the  town.  The  row  of  6  buildings  facing  the  Green  on 
the  S.  side  covers  the  location  of  the  Dutch  and  English  fort.  No.  1 
Broadway  is  the  site  of  the  house  (now  the  Washington  Building) 
which  was  built  in  1*760  by  the  Hon.  Archibald  Kennedy,  then  collector 
of  the  port,  and  successively  the  headquarters  of  Lords  Cornwallis  and 
Howe  and  Sir  Henry  Clinton.  Talleyrand  also  lived  there.  Benedict 
Arnold  occupied  No.  5,  long  since  pulled  down.  Robert  Fulton  died  at 
No.  1  Marketfield  St.,  now  covered  by  the  Produce  Exchange,  in 
Whitehall  St.  To  the  N.  are  the  Welles  (No.  18)  and  Standard  Oil 
(No.  24)  buildings,  and  on  the  W.  of  Broadway  is  Columbia  building 
(No.  29),  Aldrich  Court  (No.  45),  and  nearly  opposite  is  the  Consoli- 
dated Stock  and  Petroleum  Exchange  (No.  58) ;  at  No.  50  is  the  tall 
Toioer  building,  and  at  No,  80  is  the  Union  Trust  Co.''s  building. 

Passing  up  Broadway  from  the  Green,  between  continuous  rows 
of  large  offices,  in  a  short  time  ""  Trinity  Church  towers  up  on  the 
left,  with  its  beautiful  spire  284  ft.  high.  It  is  in  the  Gothic  style,  of 
solid  brownstone,  and  is  192  ft.  long,  80  wide,  and  60  high.  It  has 
rich  stained-glass  windows,  and  the  finest  chime  of  bells  in  America. 
The  ^Astor  Memoricd  Reredos,  in  the  chancel,  is  one  of  the  richest  and 
costliest  in  the  world ;  it  is  33  ft.  wide  and  nearly  20  high,  its  materials 
being  marble,  glass,  and  precious  stones,  with  statuary,  the  most  deli- 
cate and  elaborate  carving,  and  the  richest  mosaics.  It  was  erected 
in  18*78  at  a  cost  of  upward  of  $100,000.  The  Trinity  Parish  is  the 
oldest  in  the  city;  its  first  church  was  built  in  1696  and  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1'7'76;  its  present  edifice  was  begun  in  1839  and  consecrated  in 
1846.  The  church  is  open  all  day ;  there  are  prayers  twice  daily  (at  9 
A.  M.  and  3  p.  m.),  and  imposing  choral  services  on  Sunday.  The  grave- 
yard surrounding  the  church  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in 
the  city.  It  occupies  nearly  two  acres  of  ground,  is  embowered  in  trees, 
and  contains  many  venerated  tombs — among  them  those  of  Alexander 
Hamilton,  Captain  Lawrence  (the  hero  of  the  "  Chesapeake "),  Robert 
Fulton,  and  the  unfortunate  Charlotte  Temple.  In  the  N.  E.  corner  is 
a  stately  Gothic  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  patriots  who 
died  in  British  prisons  at  New  York  during  the  Revolution. 

Beginning  directly  opposite  Trinity  Church,  Wall  St.,  the  mone- 
tary center  of  the  country  and  resort  of  bankers  and  brokers,  runs  to 
the  East  River.  One  block  down  (at  the  corner  of  Nassau  St.)  is  the 
*  TJ.  S.  Sub-Treasury,  a  stately  white-marble  building  in  the  Doric 
style,  200  ft.  long,  80  wide,  and  80  high.     The  main  entrance  in  Wall 


8  NBW  YOEK  CITY.  [Route  1. 

St.  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  18  marble  steps,  and  in  the  interior  is  a 
lofty  Rotunda,  60  ft.  in  diameter  and  supported  by  16  Corinthian  col- 
umns (visitors  admitted  from  10  to  3  o'clock)  The  old  Federal  Hall 
stood  here,  and  from  its  balcony  Washington  delivered  his  first  ad- 
dress as  President.  A  bronze  statue  of  him,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  was 
unveiled  here  J^ovember  26,  1883.  Next  to  it  is  the  U.  S.  Assay  Office, 
open  from  10  to  3  o'clock  on  Wednesdays.  At  the  opposite  corner 
is  the  Drexel  Building,  of  white  marble,  and  just  below  it,  in  Broad 
St.,  the  Ifills  Building,  an  immense  brick  pile  for  offices ;  and  nearly 
opposite,  in  Broad  St.,  is  the  *  Stock  Exchange.  A  visit  to  the  Stock 
Exchange  is  well  worth  making.  In  Wall  St.  below  the  Treasury  (at  the 
cor.  of  William  St.)  is  the  *U.  S.  Custom-Honse,  built  in  1835  as 
the  Merchants'  Exchange,  and  famous  for  the  great  granite  plinths  of 
the  columns  that  support  the  pediment  of  the  front  elevation.  It  is  of 
massive  Quincy  granite,  with  a  depth  of  200  ft.,  a  frontage  of  144  ft., 
and  a  rear  breadth  of  171  ft.  Its  height  to  the  top  of  the  central  dome 
is  124  ft.  Beneath  this  dome,  in  the  interior  of  the  building,  is  the 
Rotunda,  around  which  are  eight  lofty  columns  of  Italian  marble,  the 
superb  Corinthian  capitals  of  which  were  carved  in  Italy.  They  support 
the  base  of  the  dome  and  are  probably  the  largest  marble  columns  in 
the  country  (open  to  visitors  from  10  to  3  o'clock).  Many  new  build- 
ings of  great  height  and  beauty  have  been  erected  in  Wall  St.,  conspicu- 
ous among  'which  are  the  Wilkes  building.  Bank  of  America,  Royal 
Insurance  building,  etc.,  while  to  the  south,  on  William  St.,  near  Han- 
over Square,  is  the  Cotton  Excliange.  From  the  foot  of  Wall  St.  a  ferry 
runs  to  Montague  St.,  Brooklyn.  Pearl  St.,  crossing  Wall  just  beyond 
the  Custom-House,  is  the  seat  of  a  heavy  wholesale  trade  in  cotton  and 
other  staples.  Nassau  St.,  one  of  the  busiest  in  the  city,  extends  from 
Wall  St.  to  Printing-House  Square.  In  this  street,  between  Cedar  and 
Liberty  Sts.,  on  the  site  of  the  Middle  Dutch  Church,  long  occupied  as 
Post-Office,  is  the  spacious  structure  of  the  Jfutucd  Life  Insurance  Co. 
It  is  of  the  Renaissance  style,  and  one  of  the  most  notable  specimens  of 
architecture  in  Xew  York. 

Continuing  up  Broadway  from  Wall  St.,  the  United  Ba?ik  building 
is  passed  on  the  corner,  and  the  massive  building  of  the  *  Equitcd)le 
Life  Ins.  Co.  (No.  120),  extending  between  Cedar  and  Pine  Sts.,  next 
attracts  attention  on  the  right.  From  the  U.  S.  Signal-Service  Station, 
at  the  top,  an  excellent  view  of  the  city,  bay,  and  neighborhood  is  ob- 
tained. Just  above  is  the  six-story  Mutual  Life  building  (No.  142) ; 
and  above  is  the  Williamshurgh  Insurance  Co.  building.  On  the  other 
side  of  Broadway  is  the  Boreel  building  (No.  115),  and  the  building  of  the 
Western  Union  Telegraph  Co.,  on  the  cor.  of  Dey  St,  The  Mail  and 
Express  building  is  in  the  same  block,  near  Fulton  St.  The  junction  of 
Broadway  and  Fulton  St.  is  the  place  of  all  others  to  see  what  Dr.  John- 
son calls  "the  full  tide  of  human  life"  ;  from  morning  to  night  it  pre- 
sents a  struggling  throng  of  vehicles  and  pedestrians.  To  the  E.  Fulton 
St.  runs  through  an  active  business  quarter  to  Fulton  Ferry,  where  the 
Fulton  Market  is,  noted  for  its  fish  ;  to  the  W.  it  leads  to  Washington 
Market,  the  principal  distinbuting  market  of  the  city,  where  may  be 


Route   i.]  NEW    YOEK    CITY.  9 

seen  an  unequaleJ  display  of  fruits,  vegetables,  meats,  fish,  etc.  At 
the  S.  E.  cor.  of  Fulton  St.  is  the  Evening  Post  building,  and  on  the  next 
block  (adjoining  each  other  on  the  east  side  of  Br-oadway)  are  the 
Park  Bank  and  ]^ew  York  Herald  buildings,  both  of  white  oarble. 
St.  Paul's  Church  (chapel  of  Trinity  Church),  on  the  west  side,  is 
a  venerable  structure,  built  in  111%^  and  standing  in  the  midst  of  a 
graveyard  in  which  are  monuments  of  great  interest.  The  pediment 
of  the  facade  contains  a  white-marble  statue  of  St.  Paul,  and  under  the 
rear  portico  is  a  monument  to  Gen.  Richard  Montgomery.  Immediately 
above  (on  the  left)  is  the  long  and  severely  simple  front  of  the  his- 
toric Astor  House,  opposite  and  on  each  side  of  which  most  of  the 
horse-car  lines  have  their  termini.  Opposite  the  Astor  House,  at  the  S. 
end  of  the  City  Hall  Park,  is  the  *Post-Office,  an  imposing  gran- 
ite building  of  Doric  and  Renaissance  architecture,  four  stories  high, 
besides  a  Mansard  roof,  with  a  front  of  2V9  ft.  toward  the  Park  and 
of  144  ft.  toward  the  south,  and  two  equal  fa9ades  of  262  J-  ft.  on  Broad- 
wav  and  Park  Row.  It  is  fire-proof,  and  cost  $'7,000,005.  The  upper 
floors  are  for  U.  S.  Courts.  The  City  Hall,  in  the  Park,  N.  of  the  Post- 
Office,  is  a  pleasing  structure  in  the  Italian  style,  3  stories  high,  with 
front  and  ends  of  white  marble  and  rear  of  brown-stone.  It  is  216  ft. 
long  by  105  ft.  deep,  with  Ionic,  Corinthian,  and  composite  pilasters 
lining  its  front,  and  surmounted  by  a  cupola  containing  a  four-dial  clock 
which  is  illuminated  at  night  by  gas.  It  was  erected  from  1803  to  1812, 
at  a  cost  of  $500,000,  and  is  occupied  by  the  Mayor,  Common  Council, 
and  other  public  officers.  The  Governor's  Room,  in  the  second  story, 
contains  the  writing-desk  on  which  Washington  wrote  his  first  message 
to  Congress,  the  chairs  used  by  the  first  Congress,  the  chair  in  which 
Washington  was  inaugurated  first  President,  and  a  number  of  por- 
traits of  American  worthies,  mostly  by  eminent  artists.  It  has  also  a 
very  fine  portrait  of  Columbus.  X.  of  the  City  Hall  is  the  "^Court- 
House,  which  was  begun  in  1861,  and  has  been  occupied  since  1867  ; 
the  dome  of  it  is  not  yet  completed.  It  is  of  white  marble,  in  the 
Corinthian  style,  3  stories  high,  250  ft.  long  and  150  wide,  and  the 
crown  of  the  dome  is  to  be  210  ft.  above  the  sidewalk  ;  the  walls 
are  of  marble;  the  beams,  staircases,  etc.,  are  of  iron;  while  black  wal- 
nut and  pine  are  employed  in  the  interior  decoration.  The  main  en- 
trance in  Chambers  St.  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  30  broad  steps,  which 
are  flanked  by  marble  columns.  The  cost  of  the  building  and  furni- 
tui-e  was  over  $12,000,000,  the  result  of  the  notorious  "Ring  frauds," 
of  which  it  was  the  instrument. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  City  Hall  Park  are  Printing-House  Square  and 
Park  Poiv,  where  are  the  offices  of  most  of  the  daily  and  many  of  the 
w^eekly  newspapers.  Fronting  the  Square  on  the  E.  is  the  *  Tribune 
Building,  a  very  lofty  structure.  It  is  built  of  red  pressed  brick, 
granite,  and  iron,  is  absolutely  fire-proof,  and  has  a  clock-tower  285 
ft.  high,  with  four  dials.  In  front  of  the  building  is  a  bronze  statue  of 
Horace  Greeley,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward.  The  building  of  The  World,  11 
stories  high,  built  of  brown-stone,  is  on  the  cor.  of  Frankfort  St.  It  is 
309  ft.  high,  and  the  highest  of  its  kind  in  the  world.    On  the  X.  is  the 


10  liTEW   YOEK   CITY.  [Route  1. 

stately  granite  building  of  the  Staats-Zeitung,  with  statues  of  Guten- 
berg and  Franklin  above  the  portal ;  and  on  the  S.  is  the  granite  Roman- 
esque building  of  The  Times,  towering  above  the  huge  Potter  Budd- 
ing on  the  cor.  of  Beekman.  In  the  Squai-e  stands  a  bronze  statue 
of  Franklin,  of  heroic  size.  Leading  northward  from  Printing-House 
Square  is  Centre  St.,  which  4  squares  above  passes  the  city  prison  called 
The  Tombs,  a  vast  granite  building  in  a  gloomy  Egyptian  style,  covering 
an  entire  block,  and  on  the  block  above  is  the  City  Building,  where  the 
law  courts  will  be  held ;  and  a  part  of  Park  Row  (late  Chatham  St.),  the 
habitat  of  Jew  tradesmen,  old-clothes  dealers,  and  low  concert-saloons. 
At  the  N.  end  of  Park  Row  is  Chatham  Square,  running  N.  from  which 
about  a  mile  is  the  Bowery,  a  broad  and  crowded  thoroughfare,  de- 
voted principally  to  retail-shops  of  every  kind,  with  numerous  beer-rooms 
and  cheap  shows.  The  Third  Ave.  line  of  the  Elevated  Railway  be- 
gins in  Park  Row  at  the  Brooklyn  Bridge,  and  runs  up  Park  Row,  the 
Bowery,  and  3d  Ave.  to  Harlem  River.  The  *  great  East  River  or 
Brooklyn  Bridge,  the  largest  suspension-bridge  in  the  world,  has 
its  New  York  terminus  in  Park  Row,  opposite  the  City  Hall  Park,  in 
direct  connection  with  the  City  Hall  branch  of  the  Third  Ave.  Elevated 
road,  and  was  opened  for  travel  and  traffic  on  May  24,  1883.  The 
whole  length  of  the  bridge  is  5,989  ft.  Its  width  is  85  ft.,  which  in- 
cludes a  promenade  for  foot-passengers,  2  railroad-tracks  on  which  run 
passenger-cars  propelled  by  a  stationai-y  engine  from  the  Brooklyn  side, 
and  two  roadways  for  vehicles.  The  distance  from  high-water  mark  to 
the  floor  of  the  bridge  is  135  ft.  The  central  span  of  the  bridge  is  sus- 
pended to  4  cables  of  steel  wire,  each  15f  inches  in  diameter,  Avhich  have 
a  deflection  of  128  ft.  The  towers  at  each  end  of  the  bridge  are  140  ft. 
long  by  50  ft.  wide  at  the  water's  edge  and  are  2*78  ft.  in  height  above 
high  water.  At  the  anchorages  each  of  the  four  cables,  after  passing 
over  the  towers,  enters  the  anchor-walls  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  80  ft. 
above  high  water,  and  passes  through  the  masonry  a  distance  of  20  ft., 
at  which  point  a  connection  is  formed  with  the  anchor-chains.  The  ap- 
proach on  the  New  York  side  from  Park  Row  to  the  foot  of  Roosevelt 
St.  is  1,562  ft.  On  the  Brooklyn  side  the  approach  is  930  ft.,  the  ter- 
minus being  in  Sands  St.  of  that  city.  This  triumph  of  engineering 
was  planned  by  Col.  John  A.  Roebling  and  built  by  his  son,  Wash- 
ington Roebling.  It  was  thirteen  years  constructing,  and  cost  about 
$15,000,000,  including  $4,000,000  for  real-estate  at  the  termini.  The 
visitor  should  not  fail  crossing  it,  as  it  affords  splendid  views  of  the 
river,  the  distant  bay,  and  the  cities  of  New  York  and  Brooklyn. 

Above  City  Hall  Park  on  Broadway  (cor.  Chambers  St.)  is  the  mar- 
ble Stewart  building  occupied  by  offices.  It  stands  on  the  site  of  a 
foi't  erected  by  the  British  during  the  Revolution.  Farther  up  (on  the 
corner  of  Leonard  St.)  is  the  beautiful  building  of  the  *N.  Y.  Life 
Insurance  Co.,  of  pure  white  marble,  in  the  Ionic  style;  and  a  num- 
ber of  other  fine  buildings  line  the  roadway  on  either  side.  Canal  St., 
once  the  bed  of  a  rivulet,  is  one  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  running 
across  the  city  from  E.  to  W.  Above  Canal  St.  a  succession  of  fine 
buildings  present  themselves,   among  them  the  Metropolitan  Hotel,  a 


Route  i.]  NEW   YORK   CITY.  11 

noble  brown-stone  building,  occupying  more  than  half  the  square  on  the 
right  hand  of  Broadway  above  Prince  St.  This  building  is  also  the  loca- 
tion of  Niblo's  Garden  Theatre.  Opposite  Bond  St.,  in  Broadway,  is 
the  lofty  marble  facade  of  the  Broadway  Central  Hotel.  At  49  Bond  St, 
is  the  Free  Circulating  Library.^  which  has  branches  at  135  2d  Ave.,  226 
W.  42d  St.,  and  251  W.  13th  St.,  near  7th  Ave.  One  block  from  Broad- 
way, in  Astor  Place,  is  Clinton  Hall.,  containing  the  Mercantile  Library. 
On  the  little  opening  is  Miss  Louise  Lawton's  statue  of  Samuel  S.  Cox. 
Half  a  block  S.,  in  Lafayette  Place,  is  the  Astor  Library,  occupying 
a  spacious  brick  building  in  the  Romanesque  style.  It  was  founded  by 
John  Jacob  Astor,  who  endowed  it  with  $400,000,  to  which  additions  were 
made  by  his  son,  Wm.  B.  Astor.  It  contains  over  250,000  volumes,  and 
is  complete  in  many  special  departments  of  study.  It  is  open  to  the  pub- 
lic daily,  free.  At  the  end  of  Astor  Place  (2  blocks  from  Broadway)  is 
the  *  Cooper  Institute,  a  large  brown-stone  building,  occupying  the 
entire  square  bounded  by  3d  and  4th  Avenues  and  'Zth  and  8th  Sts. 
It  was  founded  and  endowed  by  Peter  Cooper,  a  wealthy  and  philan- 
thropic merchant ;  and  contains  a  free  library,  a  free  reading-room, 
free  schools  of  art  and  telegraphy .  for  women,  a  free  night-school 
of  art  for  men,  a  free  night-school  of  science  for  both  sexes,  and  free 
lectures.  The  reading-room  is  open  to  all  from  8  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.,  on 
Sundays,  10  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.  Opposite  is  the  Bible  House^  a  large  brick 
structure,  containing  the  headquarters  of  the  American  Bible  Society, 
next  to  the  British  the  largest  in  the  world. 

Returning  to  Broadway  and  passing  N.,  the  spacious  iron  building 
occupied  by  the  successors  of  A.  T.  Stewart  &  Co.  is  seen  on  the  right. 
It  is  5  stories  high,  occupying  the  entire  block  between  9th  and  10th  Sts. 
and  Broadway  and  4th  Ave.  At  10th  St.  Broadway  turns  slightly 
toward  the  left,  and  *  Grace  Church  (Episcopal),  with  its  fine  marble 
fa9ade,  seems  to  project  into  the  middle  of  the  highway.  The  interior 
of  Grace  Church  is  extremely  rich,  and  the  music  is  very  fine.  Passing 
the  Star  Theatre  (near  13th  St.),  and  the  lofty  and  florid  building  of 
the  Domestic  Sewing -Machine  Co.  (cor.  14th  St.),  we  enter  *  Union 
Square,  a  pretty  little  park,  oval  in  shape,  3^  acres  in  extent,  and 
filled  with  trees,  shrubbery,  and  green  lawns.  At  its  southern  end,  on 
the  E.,  are  the  *  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Washington  by  H.  K. 
Browne,  and  Bartholdi's  bronze  statue  of  Lafayette ;  and  on  the  W.  is 
a  bronze  statue  of  Lincoln,  while  just  above  is  a  fine  bronze  fountain. 
The  Square  is  surrounded  bv  hotels  and  shops,  chief  among  which  are 
the  jewelry-store  of  Tiffany  &  Co.  (cor.  W.  15th  St.).  On  15th  St.,  east 
of  Broadway,  is  the  attractive  building  of  the  Young  Women's  Christian 
Association.  On  the  N.  side  is  a  Plaza  or  parade-ground,  the  tall  Jack- 
son Building^  and  the  Everett  House.,  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  better  up- 
town hotels.  Fourteenth  St..,  a  leading  cross-town  thoroughfare,  runs  E. 
from  Union  Square,  past  the  Academy  of  Music  and  Tammany  Hall  ; 
and  to  the  W.  it  passes  for  several  blocks  through  a  line  of  handsome 
retail  stores.  Just  W.  of  6th  Ave.  is  the  Fourteenth  St.  Theatre.,  and 
beyond  are  private  residences. 

Above  Union   Square,  Broadway  contains  a  number  of  large  dry- 


12  NEW   YORK    CITY.  [Eoute   1. 

goods  and  carpet  warehouses,  furniture,  bric-d-brac,  and  fancy-goods 
dealers.  At  *  Madison  Square  is  another  beautiful  little  park,  from 
23d  St.  to  26th  St.  On  the  X.  W.  of  the  park,  facing  Delmonico's,  is 
St.  Gaudens'  bronze  statue  of  Admiral  Farragut,  and  nearly  opposite, 
at  the  junction  of  Broadway  and  5th  Ave.,  is  a  monument  to  Gen- 
eral Worth ;  near  the  S.  W.  corner  is  Randolph  Rogers's  bronze  statue 
of  Seward.  On  the  S.  E.  corner  of  23d  St.  and  Broadway  is  the  £ar- 
tholdi  Hotel.  Overlooking  the  Square,  on  the  W.  side,  are  the  buildings 
of  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  and  the  Hoffman  House.  In  23rZ  St..,  running 
loest  to  the  river  and  a  fashionable  shopping-street,  is  the  JEden  Mtisee, 
a  granite  building  with  a  very  ornately-carved  front,  and,  at  the  cor. 
of  6th  Ave.,  the  *  Masonic  Temple,  of  granite,  100  by  140  feet,  5 
stories  high,  and  with  a  dome  50  feet  square,  rising  155  feet  above  the 
pavement.  It  contains  fine  rooms,  and  the  Grand  Lodge  Hall,  84  by  90 
feet,  and  30  feet  high,  will  seat  1,200  persons.  In  23d  St.,  between 
'7th  and  8th  Aves.,  the  immense  building,  12  stories  in  height,  known 
as  the  Chelsea  Apartment-House^  will  attract  the  eye  of  the  stranger. 
Half  a  block  W.  (cor.  of  8th  Ave.)  is  the  *  Grand  Opera-House. 
On  the  Square,  between  20th  and  21st  Sts.  and  9th  and  10th  Aves.,  are 
the  buildings  and  chapel  of  the  General  (P.  E.)  Theological  Seminary. 

Returning  eastward  to  Broadway^  which  we  have  been  following  as 
our  main  route,  we  see  the  marble  Metropolitan  office  building ;  while 
one  block  east  of  Madison  Square  (in  23d  St.  cor.  4th  Ave.)  is  the 
*  National  Academy  of  Design,  built  of  gray  and  white  marbles 
and  blue-stone,  copied  from  a  famous  palace  in  Venice.  It  has  an  in- 
]30sing  entrance  and  stairway  leading  to  extensive  galleries,  where  every 
spring  and  fall  are  held  exhibitions  of  recent  works  of  American  artists 
(admission  25c.).  Opposite  is  the  building  of  the  Youncf  Men''s  Christian 
Association.,  constructed  in  the  Renaissance  style.  Besides  a  library, 
free  reading-room  (open  from  8  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.),  gymnasium,  etc.,  it 
contains  a  lecture-hall  capable  of  seating  1,500  persons.  Above  the 
academy  in  4th  Ave.  is  the  Lyceum  Theatre.  On  the  S.  E.  corner  is  the 
large  building  of  the  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Children^ 
and  adjacent  to  it  on  4th  Ave.  is  the  home  of  the  Charity  Organization 
Society.  The  Madison  Square  Garden,  designed  by  Stanford  White, 
occupying  the  whole  square  bounded  by  26th  and  2 '7th  Sts.  and  4th  and 
Madison  Aves.,  is  one  of  the  grandest  structures  in  the  city,  and  has  the 
largest  auditorium  in  America ;  connected  with  it  is  the  Garden  Theatre. 
At  the  cor.  of  21st  St.  is  Calvary  Church  (Episcopal),  a  brown-stone 
Gothic  building.  At  the  cor.  of  20th  St.  is  the  Church  of  All  Soids 
(formerly  Dr.  Bellows's),  a  curious  structure  in  the  Italian  style.  A 
short  distance  to  the  E.  on  20th  St.  is  the  aristocratic  Gramercy  Park, 
with  the  Players'  Cluh  at  No.  16  and  the  Tilden  Home  at  No.  14,  on  the 
south  side.  Taking  16th  St.  to  the  E.  from  4th  Ave.,  Stuyvesant  Square 
is  soon  reached,  in  which  stands  *St.  George's  (Episcopal),  one  of  the 
largest  churches  in  the  city.  It  is  of  brown-stone,  in  the  Byzantine 
style,  and  the  interior  is  magnificent.  The  Florence.,  an  apartment- 
house  is  on  the  cor.  of  18th  St.  and  4th  Ave.,  and  opposite  is  the  Clar- 
endon Hotel.     On  the  corner  above  is  the  Cyclorama  Building. 


Route  1.]  NEW  YORK   CITY.  13 

Broadway  runs  from  Madison  Square  2  miles  X.  to  Central  Park,  pass- 
ing a  number  of  theatres  and  hotels,  among  which  the  most  noteworthy 
are  the  Victoria  Hotel  (cor.  2'7th  St.),  Fifth  Avenue  Theatre  (cor.  28th 
St.),  Daly's  Theatre  (cor.  30th  St.),  Palmer's  Theatre  (cor.  30th  St.),  the 
Hotel  Normandie  (cor.  38th  St.),  the  Casino  Theatre  (cor.  39th  St.),  the 
Broadway  Theatre  (cor.  of  41st  St.),  the  St.  Cloud  and  the  Rossmore 
(cor.  42d  St.),  and  the  Albany,  Newport,  Saratoga,  Rockingham,  and 
Fennimore  apartment-houses.  One  of  the  most  striking  buildings  in 
this  part  is  the  *  Metropolitan  Opera-House  (occupying  the  whole 
of  the  square  between  S9th  and  40th  Sts.).  It  is  built  of  yellow  brick, 
and  makes  but  little  pretension  to  exterior  decoration.  The  theatre  was 
destroyed  by  fire  in  August,  1892,  but  will  be  rebuilt  during  the  present 
year.  The  continuation  of  Broadway  above  59th  St.  is  known  as  the 
*  Boulevard,  a  grand  avenue  150  ft,  wide,  divided  in  the  center  by 
trees  and  grass,  and  extending  N.  to  IB'Zth  St.  By  it  may  be  reached 
what  were  formerly  the  villages  of  Manhatteinville  (125th-132d  St.)  and 
Ceirmansville  (1  mile  beyond) ;  still  N.  of  which  is  *  Fort  Washing- 
ton (or  Washington  Heights),  the  chief  summit  on  Manhattan  Island 
(238  ft.  high),  and  commanding  a  noble  view  of  the  city,  the  Hudson, 
and  the  opposite  Jersey  shore.  It  is  now  occupied  by  elegant  villa  resi- 
dences. (Fort  Washington  is  easily  reached  from  the  lower  part  of  the 
city  by  taking  the  Sixth  Ave.  Elevated  Railway  to  ]4oth  St.) 

Fifth  Avenue  begins  at  Washington  Square  (a  pleasant  park  of 
9^  acres  laid  out  on  the  site  of  the  old  Potter's  Field,  where  over 
100,000  bodies  were  buried)  and  runs  N.  for  6  miles  to  Harlem  River. 
Within  the  square  are  bronze  monuments  to  Garibaldi  and  A.  L.  HoUey. 
At  the  S.  end  of  5th  Ave.  is  the  Washiagton  Memorial  Arch, 
As  far  as  Central  Park  it  is  lined  with  compact  rows  of  houses  ;  be- 
tween 59fch  and  110th  Sts.  it  has  the  Park  on  the  left,  and  houses  at 
greater  or  less  intervals  on  the  right ;  and  from  Mt.  Morris  to  Harlem 
River  (124th  to  135th  Sts.)  it  is  lined  with  residences. 

Washington  Square  has  tine  old  residences  on  the  north  side,  and 
on  the  E.  side  is  the  University  of  the  City  of  Xeio  York,  a  marble 
building  in  the  Gothic  style,  200  by  100  ft.  The  Chapel,  with  its 
spacious  window  50  ft.  high  and  24  ft.  wide,  is  a  noble  room.  The  Uni- 
versity was  founded  in  1831,  and  has  about  50  instructors  and  500 
students.  Adjoining  it  is  a  handsome  church  (Methodist)  of  granite  in 
the  Gothic  style.  On  the  south  side  is  the  large  Judson  Memorial 
Church  (Methodist),  erected  in  memory  of  the  great  missionary.  Pass- 
ing up  Fifth  Ave.  from  Washington  Square,  the  Church  of  the  Ascen- 
sion (Episcopal)  is  seen  at  the  cor.  of  10th  St.,  and  the  First  Presbyte- 
rian at  the  cor.  of  11th.  At  the  cor.  of  16th  St.  is  the  Judge  building; 
and  a  short  distance  to  the  left  (in  15th  St.)  are  the  Italian-Gothic 
buildings  and  church  of  the  College  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  Order  of  Jesus  in  North  America.  Near  by  is  the  spacious 
building  of  the  JVeio  York  Hospitcd.  Among  the  large  business  houses, 
the  Methodist  Book  Concern,  cor.  of  19th  St.,  is  conspicuous.  At  the 
cor.  of  18th  St.  is  Chickering  Hall,  and  at  the  cor.  of  21st  St.  is  the 
house  of  the  wealthy  Union  Chih,  while  opposite  is  the  Lotos  Club.    At 


14  NEW  YORK   CITY.  [Route  1. 

the  cor.  of  21st  St.  is  the  Mohau)k  Biiildinj,  and  at  the  cor.  of  22d 
St.  ^KnoecUer^s  art-gallery ;  beyond  which  the  avenue  leads  past  Madi- 
son Square  on  the  right  and  a  line  of  hotels,  among  which  are  the 
Fifth  Avenue  and  Hoffman  Hoiise^  on  the  left.  From  Madison  Square 
to  Central  Park,  Fifth  Ave.  is  the  aristocratic  street  of  Amei'ica,  lined 
with  handsome  residences,  and  presenting  a  brilliant  spectacle,  espe- 
cially on  Sunday  mornings.  At  all  times  it  is  thronged  v.ith  the 
equipages  of  the  wealthy  and  richly  dressed  pedestrians,  and  a  succes- 
sion of  costly  churches  challenges  the  attention  of  the  passer-by.  Just 
off  the  avenue  in  W.  25th  St.  is  Trinity  Chapel  (Episcopal),  with,  its 
richly  decorated  interior  and  impressive  choral  services  ;  and  on  opposite 
corners  of  26th  St.  are  Delmonico's  world-famous  restaurant  and  the 
Cafe  Brun^wicli^  whose  reputation  is  scarcely  infeiior.  At  the  cor.  of 
28th  St.  is  the  Knickerbocker  apartment-house,  eleven  stories  high.  To 
the  E.  in  28th  St.  at  No.  11  is  St.  Leo''s  Church  (Roman  Catholic),  which 
is  perhaps  the  most  aristocratic  church  of  its  denomination  in  the  city ; 
beyond  at  No.  149  is  "  St.  Stephen''s  Church  (Roman  Catholic),  unat- 
tractive as  a  building,  but  containing  some  excellent  paintings  and  the 
most  expensive  and  elegant  altar-piece  in  the  country.  Its  music  is 
famous  and  attracts  many  visitors.  At  the  foot  of  E.  26th  St.  is  Be  lie - 
vue  Hospital^  the  largest  in  the  city,  with  accommodations  for  1,200 
patients.  At  the  cor.  of  5th  Ave.  and  29th  St.  is  the  Collegiate  Chnrch 
(Dutch  Reformed);  and  in  29th  St.  just  E.  of  the  avenue  is  the  pictur- 
esque Church  of  the  Traiisfiguration  (Episcopal),  known  familiarly  as 
"  the  little  church  round  the  corner."  A  block  beyond  is  the  Holland 
House.^  a  family  hotel  for  the  wealthy,  while  at  the  cor.  of  33d  St.  is  the 
Waldorf  Hotel.,  opened  in  the  spring  of  1893.  At  the  cor.  of  34th  St. 
is  the  Manhattan  Clah  building,  foi-merly  the  residence  of  A.  T.  Stewart, 
a  large  white-marble  structure,  3  stories  high  with  a  Mansard  roof,  and 
splendidly  decorated  and  furnished.  Passing  W.  along  34th  St.  the  spa- 
cious Congregational  Tabernacle  is  seen  at  the  cor.  of  6th  Ave. ;  and  the 
vast  marble  buildings  of  the  N.  Y  Institution  for  the  Blind.,  with  turrets 
and  battlements,  at  9th  Ave.  At  the  cor.  of  35th  St.  and  7th  Ave.  is 
the  brick  and  gray-stone  structure  of  the  State  Arsenal.,  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  Ordnance  Department  of  the  State;  and  at  the  cor.  of  36th 
St.  and  9th  Ave.  is  the  Gothic  edifice  of  the  JSforthw ester n  Dispensary. 
One  block  E.  of  5th  Ave.,  34th  St.  emerges  into  *Park  ATenue,  a 
beautiful  street  140  ft.  wide,  bordered  by  handsome  private  residences, 
and  divided  in  the  center  by  a  row  of  beautiful  little  parks,  sur- 
rounding openings  in  the  railroad  tunnel  which  runs  underneath.  In 
Park  Ave.,  the  Murray  Hill  Hotel  is  at  the  cor.  of  40th  St. ;  at  the 
cor.  of  35th  St.  is  the  Church  of  the  Covenant  (Presbyterian),  of  gray- 
stone  in  the  Lombardo-Gothic  style ;  at  the  cor.  of  34th  St.  is  the 
Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitarian) ;  and  just  below  (cor.  4th  Ave.  and 
32d  St.)  is  the  vast  iron  building  erected  by  A.  T.  Stewart  as  a  Work- 
ing-women's Home,  but  now  the  Park  Hotel.  In  5th  Ave.,  at  the 
cor.  of  35th  St.,  is  the  New  York  Club.,  formerly  the  Caswell  home ; 
and  at  the  cor.  of  S'Zth  St.  is  the  Brick  Church  (Presbyterian).  Farther 
up,  at  the  cor.  of  39th  St.,  the  Union  League  Club  has  a  spacious  build- 


St.  Patriclc's  Cathedral,  New  York. 


Route  1.]  NEW   YORK   CITY.  15 

ing.  Occupying  the  left  side  from  40th  to  42d  St.  is  the  disused  Dis- 
tribiding  Reservoir  of  the  Croton  Aqueduct,  covering  4  acres.  West  of 
it  is  the  pretty  little  Bryant  Square,  with  a  bust  of  Washington  Ii^ving, 
and  opposite  is  the  tall  building  of  the  Columbia  Bank.  Two  squares 
E.  in  42d  St.  is  the  '-'Grand  Cectral  Depot,  built  of  brick,  stone, 
and  iron,  692  ft.  long  and  240  ft.  Avide.  An  addition  to  the  east  is  now 
used  for  incoming  trains.  In  43d  St.,  a  few  doors  west  of  the  avenue, 
is  the  beautiful  home  of  the  Century  Club.,  the  building  was  designed, 
by  Stanford  White,  and  opposite  is  the  Hotel  Renaissance.^  while  ad- 
jacent to  it  is  the  RacJcet  and  Tennis  Club.  At  the  cor.  of  5th 
Ave.  and  43d  St.  is  the  Jewish  *  Temple  Emanuel,  the  chief  syna- 
gogue of  the  city,  and  the  finest  specimen  of  Saracenic  ai'chitecture  in 
America.  The  interior  is  gorgeously  decorated.  In  W.  44th  St.  are 
the  Academy  of  Medicine  and  the  Berkeley  Lyceum.  At  the  cor.  of 
45th  St.  is  the  Universalist  Church  of  the  Divine  Pcdernity  ;  at  46th  St. 
is  the  Windsor  Hotel ;  and  at  the  cor.  of  48ih  St,  is  the  costly  Colle- 
giate Church  (Dutch  Reformed).  Passing  E.  along  50th  St.  to  Madison 
Ave.,  we  reach  Columbia  College,  the  buildings  of  which  are  very 
handsome.  It  is  the  oldest  college  in  the  State,  having  been  chartered 
in  1*754,  and  is  richly  endowed.  Occupying  the  square  on  5th  Ave.  be- 
tween 60th  and  51st  Sts.,  is  the  *  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick  (Roman 
Catholic),  the  largest  church  in  the  city,  and  one  of  the  largest  and  finest 
on  the  continent.  It  is  of  white  marble  in  the  decorated  Gothic  style, 
and  is  332  ft.  long,  with  a  general  breadth  of  132  ft.,  and  at  the  transept 
of  1*74  ft.  At  the  front  are  two  spires,  and  each  328  ft.  high,  flanking  a 
central  gable  156  ft.  high.  Between  51st  and  52d  Sts.  are  the  Vanderbilt 
houses.  That  at  the  jS'.  W.  cor.  of  5od  St.  is  the  house  of  William  K. 
Vanderbilt,  and  is  considered  next  to  Trinity  Church,  Boston,  the  finest 
piece  of  architecture  in  the  United  States,  while  on  the  cor.  of  57th  St. 
is  the  hoase  of  Cornelius  Vanderbilt  At  the  cor.  of  o3d  St.  is  the 
handsome  church  of  St.  Thomas  (Episcopal);  and  at  54th  St.  is  St. 
liUke's  Hospital,  one  of  the  most  notable  objects  on  the  avenue. 
It  is  in  charge  of  the  Episcopal  Sisters  of  the  Holy  Communion.  On 
the  S.  W.  corner  is  the  residence  of  William  C.  Whitney,  and  opposite 
on  the  east  side  of  the  avenue  is  the  residence  of  C.  P.  Huntington.  At 
55th  St.  is  the  Fifth  Avenue  Presbyterian  Church  (Dr.  John 
Hall's),  the  largest  of  that  sect  in  the  world ;  and  at  o9th  St.  Central  Park 
is  reached.  The  opening  at  the  entrance  of  Central  Park  is  called  the 
Plaza.  At  its  S,  end,  facing  5th  Ave.,  is  the  Veteran  Club.,  while  on 
the  W,  side  is  the  Plctza  Hotel.,  and  on  the  E,  side  are  the  Savoy  and  the 
New  Netherlands.  In  59th  St.,  facing  Central  Park,  west  of  5th  Ave., 
are  large  apartment-houses,  the  elegant  homes  of  the  Deutsche  Verein 
and  the  Catholic  Club,  while  beyond,  the  huge  "  Spanish  "  apartment- 
houses  attract  the  attention  for  their  beauty  and  spaciousness.  From 
59th  St,  to  '72d,  facing  the  Park,  are  many  handsome  residences  of  at- 
tractive architecture,  and  on  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  63d  St.  is  the  Progress 
Club.,  built  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  one  of  the  finest  structures 
of  its  kind  in  the  city.  The  *  Lenox  Library,  of  Lockport  limestone, 
extends  from  YOth  to  71st  St.     It  v/as  founded  and  erected  bv  the  late 


16  NEW   YORK   CITY.  [Route  1. 

James  Lenox.  It  possesses,  besides  other  valuable  donations,  "the  col- 
lection of  MSS.,  printed  books,  engravings  and  maps,  statuary,  paintings, 
drawings,  and  other  works  of  art,"  made  by  the  founder,  and  is  particu- 
larly rich  in  early  American  history,  biblical  bibliography,  and  Eliza- 
bethan literature.  Close  by  it  is  the  Presbyterian  Hospital  (founded  by 
Mr.  Lenox),  a  pleasing  brick  and  stone  structure  with  graceful  spires. 
A  short  distance  E.  (cor.  4th  Ave.  and  69th  St.)  is  the  *  Normal  Col- 
lege, a  beautiful  building  in  the  secular  Gothic  style,  300  ft.  long,  125 
ft.  wide,  and  70  ft.  high,  with  a  lofty  and  massive  Victoria  tower.  It  is 
part  of  the  common-school  system,  and  is  free.  On  Park  Ave.,  between 
69th  and  70th  Sis.,  is  the  Union  Theological  Semhiary,  while  at  "the 
cor.  of  72d  St.  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Freiindschaft  Club. 
Beyond  72d  St.  the  residences  are  fewer,  but  on  4th  Ave.  and  94th  St. 
is  the  imposing  armory  of  the  Eighth  Regiment.  Between  120th  and 
124th  Sts.  is  Mount  Jlorris  Square^  a  park  of  20  acres,  with  a  rocky 
hill  in  the  center  101  ft.  high,  commanding  picturesque  views.  Beyond 
this  the  avenue  passes  amid  tasteful  residences  to  the  Harlem  River,  at 
the  end  of  the  island.  (Fifth  Ave.,  up  to  72d  St.,  may  be  advan- 
tageously seen,  on  week-days,  by  taking  a  5th  Ave.  stage.  In  the  after- 
noon it  is  the  fashionable  promenade.) 

Among  the  institutions  and  buildings  not  3'et  mentioned  but  worthy 
of  notice  are  the  following:  The  Rive  Points  House  of  Ridustry  (155 
Worth  St.)  and  the  Five  Points  Mission,  facing  each  other  on  what  was 
once  the  vilest  and  most  dangerous  part  of  the  city.  The  Howard  Mis- 
sion,  204  5th  St.,  supports  day  and  Sunday  schools  and  a  home  for  needy 
children,  and  distributes  food,  clothing,  and  fuel  to  the  deserving  poor. 
The  *Deaf  and  Duml)  Institution  is  located  on  Washington 
Heights  (see  p.  13);  the  buildings,  which  are  the  largest  and  finest 
of  the  kind  in  the  world,  cover  2  acres  and  stand  in  a  park  of  28  acres 
(visitors  admitted  from  1.30  to  4  daily).  The  Convent  of  the  Sacred 
Heart,  in  Manhattanville  (see  p.  13),  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  hill 
surrounded  by  park-like  grounds.  The  *  Bloomingdale  Asylum 
for  the  Insane  occupies  a  commanding  site  in  117th  St.  near  10th 
Ave. ;  the  buildings,  3  in  number,  can  accommodate  170  patients,  and 
are  always  full.  Columbia  College  has  purchased  this  site  for  its  new 
buildings.  At  Manhattanville  is  Manhattan  College  (Roman  Catholic), 
with  stately  buildings  and  700  students.  The  Sheltering  Arms,  at  10th 
Ave.  and  129th  St.,  receives  children  between  2  and  10  j-ears  of  age, 
for  whom  no  other  institution  provides. 

**  Central  Park  is  reached  from  the  lower  part  of  the  city  by 
the  6th  Ave.  Elevated  Railway;  by  the  street-cars  of  the  Broadway, 
6th,  7th,  and  8th  Ave.  lines ;  or  by  stage  up  5th  Ave.  It  is  one 
of  the  finest  parks  in  the  world,  embracing  a  rectangular  area  of 
843  acres,  extending  from  59th  to  110th  St.  and  from  5th  to  8th  Ave. 
It  has  18  entrances  (4  at  each  end  and  5  at  each  side),  and  four 
streets  (65th,  79th,  85th,  and  97th)  cross  it,  to  afford  opportunity  for 
traffic,  passing  under  the  park  walks  and  drives.  The  original  surface 
was  exceedingly  rough  and  unattractive,  consisting  chiefly  of  rock  and 
marsh;  but  by  engineering  skill  the  veiy  defects  that  once   seemed 


Route  i.]  NEW   YOEK   CITY.  17 

fatal  have  been  converted  into  its  most  attractive  features.  Between 
'ZQth  and  96tli  streets  a  large  portion  of  the  Park  is  occupied  by  the 
two  Croton  reservoirs,  the  smaller  one  comprising  35  and  the  larger 
lOY  acres.  The  Lakes,  five  in  number,  occupy  43^  acres  more.  There 
are  10  miles  of  carriage-roads,  6  miles  of  bridle-paths,  and  30  miles  of 
footpaths,  with  numerous  bridges,  arches,  and  other  architectural  monu- 
ments, together  with  many  statues.  The  *Mall^  near  the  5th  Ave.  en- 
trance, is  the  principal  promenade ;  it  is  a  wide  esplanade,  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  long,  and  bordered  by  double  rows  of  stately  elms.  At 
various  points  are  bronze  statues  of  *  Shakespeare,  Walter  Scott,  Goethe, 
Burns,  Halleck,  and  *  Daniel  Webster ;  and  also  the  Puritan  and  7th 
Regiment  statues.  Particularly  worthy  of  notice  are  the  bronze  groups 
of  "  The  Indian  Hunter  and  his  Dog "  (near  the  S.  end)  and  "  The 
Falconer  "  (near  the  upper  end).  In  the  Music  Pavilion,  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  Mall,  concerts  are  given  on  Saturday  and  Sunday  afternoons 
in  the  summer.  The  Mall  is  terminated  on  the  N.  by  *  The  Terrace^  a 
sumptuous  pile  of  masonry,  richly  carved  and  decorated.  Descending 
the  Terrace  by  a  flight  of  broad  stone  stairs.  Central  Lake  is  reached, 
the  prettiest  piece  of  water  in  the  Park.  Between  the  Terrace  and 
the  Lake  is  a  costly  fountain  with  large  granite  basins  and  a  colossal 
statue  of  the  Angel  of  Bethesda.  The  Ramble^  covering  36  acres  of 
sloping  hills,  and  abounding  in  pleasant  shady  paths,  lies  N.  of  Central 
Lake.  On  the  highest  point  of  the  Ramble  stands  the  ^Behedere^  a 
tower  in  the  Xorman  style  of  architecture.  From  the  top  attractive 
views  in  all  directions  may  be  had.  Just  above  the  Belvedere  is  the  Old 
Croton  Reservoir  (holding  150,000,000  gallons),  and  above  this  the  New 
Reservoir  (holding  1,000,000,000  gallons).  Still  above  this  is  the  Up- 
per Park,  less  embellished  by  art  than  the  lower  portion,  but  richer 
in  natural  beauties.  About  the  Old  State  Arsenal,  at  the  S.  E.  end, 
are  the  '^Zoological  Gardens^  or  Menagerie,  with  an  interesting  col- 
lection of  animals,  birds,  reptiles,  etc. ;  and  at  8 2d  St.  on  the  5th  Ave. 
side  is  the  spacious  building  of  the  ^ Meiropolitan  Museum  of  Art  (see 
"  Art  Collections  "  on  p.  4).  The  Egyptian  *  Obelisk  (Cleopatra's  Needle) 
stands  on  an  eminence  just  W.  of  the  Museum,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
striking  objects  in  the  Park.  This  obehsk  is  one  of  llie  most  ancient 
of  the  world's  monuments.  Originally  hewn  and  inscribed  by  Thothmes 
III,  one  of  the  sides  is  also  inscribed  with  the  victories  of  Rameses  II 
(a  contemporary  of  Moses),  who  lived  three  centuries  afterward.  It  was 
presented  to  the  city  of  New  York  by  Ismail  Pasha,  and  brought  to 
this  country  at  the  expense  of  William  H.  Vanderbilt.  Hackney-coaches 
may  be  hired  at  the  entrances  for  |2  per  hour,  and  the  circuit  can  be 
made  in  an  hour.  Park  carriages  run  to  Mount  St.  Vincent  and  back 
from  5th  and  6th  Aves.  (fare  25c.).  In  Manhattan  Square,  which  ad- 
joins Central  Park  on  the  W.  between  7 7th  and  81st  Sts.,  is  the 
*  American  Jhiseiim  of  Natural  History,  in  a  large  brick  building,  con- 
taining Indian  antiquities,  minerals,  shells,  and  stuffed  and  mounted 
specimens  of  birds,  fishes,  quadrupeds,  insects,  etc.  Open  daily  to  the 
public  from  9  a.  m.  till  sunset,  and  on  Sundays  from  1  p.  m.  till  sunset ; 
also  on  Tuesday  and  Saturday  evenings  from  8  to  10  p.  m.    Riverside 


18  NEW  YORK   CITY.  [Route  1. 

Park  extends  from  '72d  to  130th  Sts.  along  the  Hudson  Kiver,  and  can 
be  reached  most  easily  by  the  6th  Ave.  Elevated  Railway  to  125th  St. 
Near  125th  St.,  on  Claremont  Hill,  is  the  site  of  the  Grant  Memorial, 
and  there  the  remains  of  the  great  hero  are  buried. 

In  1873  Morrisania,  West  Farms,  and  Kingsbridge,  with  adjacent 
territory  aggregating  some  13,000  acres,  were  annexed  to  the  city. 
This  section  is  very  rapidly  being  built  up,  but  as  yet  has  no  special 
attractive  features  worthy  of  description.  From  the  terminus  of  the 
6th  Ave  Elevated  Railroad  the  New  York  &  Northern  R.  R.  passes 
along  the  N.  bank  of  the  Harlem  River,  stopping  at  the  stations  of 
High  Bridge,  Morris  Heights,  Fordam  Heights,  and  Kingsbridge,  and 
thence  northward  through  Van  Cortlandt,  Mosholu,  Lowerre,  and  Park 
Hill  to  Yonkers.  On  the  east  side  the  3d  Ave.  extension  of  the 
elevated  system  runs  from  129th  St.  and  2d  Ave.  to  E.  170th  St.,  a 
distance  of  2-|-  miles.  '  This  road  is  to  be  extended  to  New  Rochelle,  a 
distance  of  16  miles.  On  the  N.  an  elaborate  series  of  parks  is  being 
laid  out,  beginning  with  Pelham  Bay  Park  (1,700  acres),  on  Long  Island 
Sound,  which  is  connected  by  the  Bronx  and  Pelham  Parkway  with 
Bronx  Park  (653  acres),  where  is  the  proposed  site  of  the  Botanical 
Gardens ;  thence  by  the  Mosholu  Parkway  to  the  Van  Cortlandt  Park 
(1,069  acres),  used  as  a  parade-ground  by  the  National  Guard. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions  have  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor,  whose  time  is  limited,  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amomit  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the  vis- 
itor can  readily  spend  more  time  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  attention. 
In  making  these  various  excursions,  the  visitor  should  provide  himself  with 
Appletons'  Dictionary  of  New  Yoek  and  its  Vicinity,  in  which  he  will 
find  a  detailed  description  of  the  places  referred  to  in  these  itineraries. 

1.  An  excellent  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  city  may  be  gained  by 
starting  from  Madison  Square  and  proceeding  eastward  along  23d  St. 
until  3d  Ave.  is  reached,  where  the  elevated  railroad  may  be  taken  to 
the  Battery ;  then,  without  descending  to  the  street,  take  either  the  9th 
Ave.  or  the  6th  Ave.  train  to  155th  St. ;  whence  proceed  by  the  New 
York  and  Northern  R.  R.  to  Yonkers,  and  then  return  by  the  train  of 
the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  R.  R.  to  125th  St. ;  thence  across  to 
3d  Ave.,  where  the  elevated  railroad  may  be  taken  running  southward, 
or  north  to  Treraont  by  the  Suburban  Rapid  Transit  R.  R.,  a  distance  of 
2-|  miles,  returning  by  the  same  route.  This  excursion  may  be  short- 
ened by  crossing  the  city  at  125th  St.,  and  foregoing  a  visit  to  the 
newer  portion  of  the  city.  It  may  be  lengthened  by  visiting  the  new 
parks  and  parkways  in  the  upper  part  of  the  city. 

2.  Starting  from  the  vicinity  of  Madison  Square,  take  the  Broadway 
cars  down  town,  passing  on  the  left  Union  Square,  with  the  statues  of 
Lafayette,  Lincoln,  and  Washington ;  then  past  Grace  Church,  at  10th 
St.,  and  the  many  large  business  houses  that  line  the  great  thoroughfare. 
AUght  at  Chambers  St. ;  visit  the  Court-House,  City  Hall,  and  other  pub- 
lic buildings,  including  the  Post-Office.  The  great  East  River  Bridge 
and  the  newspaper-offices  are  in  Printing-House  Square,  which  is  to  the 


Eoute  i.]  NEW    YOEK    CITY.  19 

east  of  City  Hall  Park.  The  buildings  of  the  World,  Tribune,  and 
Times  are  the  most  conspicuous.  Then  proceed  along  Park  Row  to 
Broadway,  past  the  Herald  Building,  on  the  corner  of  Ann  St. ;  cross 
over  to  St.  Paul's  Church.  On  the  block  beyond  is  the  Mail  and  Ex- 
press Building;  and  on  the  corner  of  Dey  St.  is  the  Western  Union 
Building,  where  visitors  are  admitted  to  see  the  operating-room,  in  which 
messages  from  all  parts  of  the  country  are  being  received.  A  few  blocks 
farther,  at  120  Broadway,  is  the  Equitable  Building;  and  then,  at  the 
head  of  Wall  St.,  is  Trinity  Church,  with  its  historic  grave-yard.  Con- 
tinuing down  Broadway,  visit  the  ConsoUdated  Stock  and  Petroleum  Ex- 
change, on  the  corner  of  Exchange  Place.  From  the  visitors'  gallery  a 
view  of  the  floor  can  be  obtained.  Passing  the  many  tall  office-build- 
ings in  the  vicinity,  Bowhng  Green  is  reached,  and  to  the  left  is  the 
Produce  Exchange,  from  the  tall  tower  of  which  a  fine  view  can  be 
obtained.  Continue  down  Whitehall  St.  to  the  Battery,  with  the  Barge- 
Office  on  the  water's  edge ;  then  pass  along  South  St.,  in  front  of  the 
shipping,  till  Wail  St.  is  reached,  by  vvhich  return  to  Broadway,  calling 
at  the  U.  S.  Custom-House,  the  IT.  S.  Assay-Office,  the  U.'  S.  Sub- 
treasury,  and  the  Stock  Exchange  (entrance  to  visitors'  gallery  is  on 
Wall  St.).  Walk  up  Nassau  St.  to  Printing-House  Square,  where  the 
elevated  railway  may  be  taken,  or  preferably  the  4th  Ave.  street-cars, 
which  pass  the  Tombs  in  Centre  St.,  and  then  up  the  Bowery,  one  of  the 
unique  streets  in  New  York;  turning  into  4th  Ave.  at  8th  St.,  where  the 
Cooper  Union  is.  Return  to  Madison  Square  at  23d  St.,  passing  the 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association  and  the  Academy  of  Design  at  4th 
Ave.  The  large  building  of  the  College  of  the  City  of  New  York  is  at 
the  corner  of  Lexington  Ave.,  one  block  to  the  east  of  4th  Ave. 

3.  Proceed  westward  through  23d  St.  to  6th  Ave.  The  Masonic 
Temple  is  on  the  N.  E.  corner.  Then  down  6th  Ave.  past  the  large 
retail  dry-goods  stores  to  9th  St.,  where  the  Jeiferson  Market  Court- 
House,  one  of  the  really  fine  pieces  of  architecture,  is  situated.  A  few 
minutes  may  be  spent  with  interest  in  the  court- rooms.  Adjoining  is 
the  Jefferson  Market.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  are  many  of  the  old 
houses  of  New  York,  and  a  ramble  to  the  westward  and  southward 
brings  one  in  the  midst  of  the  old  village  of  Greenwich,  and  later  the 
residential  quarter  of  the  wealthy.  Passing  from  6th  Ave.  through 
10th  St.  the  Studio  Building  is  seen  on  the  left,  and  at  times  the  studios 
are  open  to  the  public.  At  the  corner  of  5th  Ave.  is  the  Church  of  the 
Ascension,  with  a  fine  painting  by  John  La  Farge  over  the  altar,  and 
numerous  memorial  windows  of  considerable  merit.  Turning  S.,  the 
Memorial  Arch  is  seen,  and  in  a  few  minutes  Washington  Square 
is  reached.  In  the  square  on  the  west  side  is  J.  Q.  A.  \Yard's  bust 
of  A.  L.  Holley,  and  on  the  east  is  Turini's  Garibaldi.  Beyond,  in  Uni- 
versity Place,  is  the  '^QVf  York  University,  with  many  historic  associa- 
tions ;  to  the  S.  of  which  is  the  Benedict  Apartment  House,  where 
many  artists  have  their  studios.  At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  the  square  is 
the  Judson  Memorial  Church,  with  its  tall  tower.  A  block  below  the 
square  is  Bleecker  St.,  which  is  about  the  centre  of  the  French  quar- 
ter  of   New  Y'crk.     To   those  who  desire   to  study  the   peculiarities 


20  NEW   YOKK   CITY.  [Route  1. 

of  a  foreign  people  in  a  large  city,  an  hour  or  so  may  be  spent  in 
visiting  this  district.  Returning  to  the  square,  a  stage  may  be  taken 
up  5th  Ave.  to  86th  St.,  passing  the  many  churches,  club-houses,  and 
private  residences.  At  the  end  of  the  stage  line,  cross  to  the  E.,  and 
return  by  way  of  the  Madison  Ave.  cars.  The  Tiifany  house  at  '72d 
St.,  and  the  Viilard  houses  at  50th  St.  are  passed,  and  at  49th  St.  the 
buildings  of  Columbia  College  are  reached.  These,  with  their  museums, 
deserve  careful  inspection.  Then,  again  taking  the  cars,  the  Manhattan 
Athletic  Club  building,  at  45th  St.,  the  Grand  Central  Station  at  42d 
St.,  are  passed ;  then  through  the  tunnel,  and  down  4th  Ave.  to  23d  St. 

4.  Madison  Ave.,  between  23d  and  42d  Sts.,  is  worthy  of  a  visit. 
The  University  Club  is  on  the  S.  E.  corner  of  26th  St.,  on  the  upper 
corner  is  the  Madison  Square  Garden.  Visitors  can  ascend  the  tower. 
Several  churches  are  on  the  route,  among  which  are  the  Church  of 
Transfiguration  at  No.  5  East  29th  St.,  and  the  Church  of  the  Incar- 
nation at  the  cor.  of  35th  St.  Residences  of  prominent  citizens,  with 
pleasing  architecture,  line  the  avenue  till  42d  St.  is  reached.  Then,  by 
either  the  Madison  Ave.  or  3d  Ave.  cars,  proceed  to  6Vth  St.  This 
vicinity,  once  city  propei-ty,  is  now  the  site  of  numerous  public  institu- 
tions. In  67th  St.,  near  3d  Ave.,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Fire  De- 
partment. On  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Lexington  Ave.  is  the  Mount  Sinai 
Hospital,  while  adjoining,  in  66th  St.,  is  the  Chapin  Home.  Between 
66th  and  67th  Sts.  is  the  Seventh  Regiment  Armory,  which  is  best  seen 
during  the  winter  months  in  the  evening,  as  then  the  militia  are  drilling. 
Passing  up  4th  Ave.  the  Hahnemann  Hospital  is  reached,  and  at  68th  St. 
is  the  Female  Normal  College,  occupying  the  entire  block.  A  technical 
school  for  the  deaf  and  dumb  is  in  Lexington  Ave.,  between  67th  and 
68th  Sts.,  and  also  in  Lexington  Ave.,  directly  opposite  the  College,  is 
the  Foundling  Asylum  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Returning  to 
4th  Ave.,  the  Union  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Presbyterian  Church 
occupies,  with  its  fine  building,  the  block  between  69th  and  70th  Sts. 
In  70th  St.  is  the  Lenox  Presbyterian  Hospital,  and  beyond,  in  5th 
Ave.,  is  the  Lenox  Library,  while  on  the  cor.  of  7 2d  St.  and  4th  Ave. 
is  the  Fi-eundschaft  Club-House.  In  returning  to  23d  St.  the  visitor  may 
take  the  street  cars  on  Madison  or  3d  Ave.,  or  the  5th  Ave.  stages. 

5.  An  entire  day  may  be  given  up  to  Central  Park,  which  should  be 
entered  at  59th  St.  and  5th  Ave.  or. at  59th  St.  and  8th  Ave.,  and 
at  either  of  which  gates  there  are  carriages  in  waiting,  which  will  take 
the  visitor  around  the  park  (fare  25c.).  The  old  Arsenal  and  zoological 
collection  are  on  the  east  side,  near  64th  St.,  and  should  be  visited 
independently  of  the  carriage-ride.  Stops  are  made  at  the  Metropohtan 
Museum  of  iirt,  near  82d  St.,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  is  also  the  Obelisk, 
at  Mount  St.  Vincent,  and  on  the  west  side  at  the  American  Museum  of 
Natural  History,  and  at  the  Terrace  Bridge,  whence  the  Mall  and  the 
Belvedei-e  may  be  visited.  From  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  the 
visitor  may  take  the  street  cars  and  ride  down  8th  Ave.,  past  the  large 
St.  Remo  and  Dakota  apartment-houses  to  59th  St. ;  thence  eastward 
past  the  Spanish  apartment-house,  and  club-houses  to  6th  Ave.,  where 
the  cars  may  be  taken  to  23d  St. 


Tlie  Accepted  Design  for  the  Tomb  of  General  Grant. 

(copyrighted   by  the   grant   monument  association.) 


Boilte  1.]  NEW   YORK   CITY.  21 

6.  Take  the  Broadway  cars  up  Broadway  from  23d  St.,  past  the 
theatres,  hotels.  Metropolitan  Opera-House  to  40th  St.,  to  42d  St.,  then 
by  a  Boulevard  line  car  to  '72d  St.,  whence  proceed  westward  to  River- 
side Park.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Park  is  Grant's  tomb,  where  the 
great  memorial  is  now  being  built  to  the  deceased  hero.  To  the  E.  of 
the  Park  is  West  End  Ave.,  which  is  fast  being  built  up  with  fine 
residences.  At  the  cor.  of  110th  St.  and  Amsterdam  Ave.  is  the 
accepted  site  of  the  Episcopal  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine,  and  at 
ll7th  St.  is  the  site  to  which  Columbia  College  will  remove,  while 
still  to  the  E.  is  Morningside  Park.  At  125th  St.  and  10th  Ave. 
take  the  cable-cars  to  their  extreme  end  at  Fort  George,  where  during 
Revolutionary  times  a  fort  existed,  then  return  a  few  blocks  and  cross 
the  Harlem  River  over  the  Washington  Bridge,  from  where  a  fine  view 
is  obt-.iined.  Pass  down  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  river  to  High  Bridge, 
over  whic^  return  to  Manhattan  Island,  and  visit  the  Water  Works. 
Descend  to  the  river  and  take  the  ferry  down  the  stream  to  180th  St. 
and  3d  Ave.,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  east  side  elevated  rail- 
road, or,  if  there  is  time,  a  boat  may  be  taken  for  the  lower  portion  of  the 
city,  affording  the  visitor  a  view  of  Hell  Gate,  the  islands,  and  shipping. 

h.  A  pleasant  walk  from  Madison  Square  is  up  5th  Ave.  to  26th 
St.,  passing  the  statue  of  Farragut ;  then  eastward  past  the  University 
Club,  Madison  Square  Garden  to  Bellevue  Hospital,  which  with  its 
various  departments  is  worthy  of  careful  inspection.  Then  by  ferry  to 
Blackwell,  Ward's,  and  Randall  Islands,  visiting  the  public  institutions 
there  (a  pass  is  required).  Returning,  the  remainder  of  the  day  may  be 
spent  in  visiting  the  treasures  of  the  Astor  Library,  reached  by  cross- 
town  car  from  foot  of  E.  23d  St.  The  Mercantile  Library,  Cooper  Union, 
and  Bible  House  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Thence  pass  up  4th  Ave. 
to  14th  St.,  then  E.  to  Irving  Place,  and  N.  past  the  Academy  of  Music, 
Amberg's  Theatre,  to  Gramercy  Park,  with  its  notable  residences  on  the 
north  side,  and  the  Players'  Club  and  Tiiden  house  on  the  south  side.  A 
few  steps  to  the  W.  is  4th  Ave.,  thence  proceed  N.  to  23d  St. 

Several  days  may  be  agreeably  spent  in  visiting  the  various  .suburban 
resorts  near  Xew  York,  including  Brookhii. 


An  excursion  which  no  visitor  should  fail  to  make  is  that  to  *Hlgh 
Bridge  (reached  by  6th  Ave.  Elevated  road  to  155th  St.),  connecting 
with  X.  Y.  &  Northern  R.  R.  trains ;  by  horse-cars  or  3d  Ave.  Elevated 
to  125th  St.,  and  thence  by  Cable-Road  to  10th  Ave.  and  lYSth  St.,  or 
by  3d  Ave.  Elevated  to  Harlem,  and  thence  by  steamboat.  This  noble 
structure,  by  which  the  Croton  Aqueduct  is  carried  across  Harlem  River, 
is  of  granite  throughout,  and  spans  the  entire  width  of  valley  and  river. 
It  is  1,450  ft.  long,  114  ft.  high,  and  supported  on  14  massive  piers, 
and  has  been  well  called  "  a  structure  worthy  of  the  Roman  Empire." 
On  the  lofty  bank  at  its  S.  end  is  a  capacious  reservoir.  At  181st  St., 
reached  by  cable-car  from  125th  St.,  is  the  Washinc/ton  Bindge  across 
the  Harlem,  connecting  Edgecombe  road  and  Boscobel  Ave.  Passing 
thence  along  the  roadway,  a  short  distance  beyond  the  Berkeley  Oval 
is  reached,  where  the  great  intercollegiate  foot-ball  matches  are  held. 


22  KEW   YOEK   CITY.  [Route  1. 

The  public  institutions  on  the  East  River  islands  are  places  of 
special  interest.  Opposite  the  foot  of  E.  46th  St.  is  BlackioelV s  Island., 
120  acres  in  extent;  upon  it  are  located  the  Almshouse,  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum (for  females).  Penitentiary,  Workhouse,  Blind  Asylum,  Charity, 
Small-pox,  and  Typhus-Fever  Hospitals,  Hospital  for  Incurables,  and 
Convalescent  Hospital,  all  built  of  granite,  quari'ied  on  the  island  by 
the  convicts.  North  of  the  island,  between  the  village  of  Astoria 
(reached  by  92d  St.  Ferry)  and  New  York,  on  the  opposite  shore  is 
Hell-Gate.,  long  the  dread  of  all  vessels  passing  through  the  Sound,  but 
-now  largely  shorn  of  its  terrors,  while  the  IT.  S.  engineers  are  engaged  in 
removing  the  remaining  rocks.  To  the  left  is  M^arcVs  Island  (200  acres), 
which  divides  the  Harlem  from  the  East  River ;  upon  it  are  the  Lunatic 
Asylum  (for  males),  the  Emigrant  Hospital,  and  the  Inebriate  Asylum. 
HandaWs  Island,  separated  from  Ward's  Island  by  a  narrow  channel,  is 
the  site  of  the  Idiot  Asylum,  the  House  of  Refuge,  the  Inf aiit  Hospital, 
Nurseries,  and  other  charities  provided  by  the  city  for  destitute  children. 
(Permits  for  visiting  any  of  these  islands  must  be  procured  at  the  office 
of  the  Commissioners  of  Public  Charities,  cor.  3d  Ave.  and  11th  St.) 

Governor'^s  Island  (reached  by  ferry  from  pier  adjoining  Staten  Isl- 
and ferry)  is  a  national  military  station,  with  two  forts  (Fort  Columbus 
and  Castle  William)  and  some  attractive  officers'  quarters. 

*  Staten  Island  is  reached  by  ferry-boats  from  the  foot  of  White- 
hall St.  every  20  minutes  to  St.  George,  whence  trains  of  the  Staten 
Island  Rapid  Transit  R.  R.  nm  E.  to  Tompkinsville,  Stapleton,  and 
Clifton,  and  W.  to  New  Brighton,  Sailors'  Snug  Harbor,  Livingston 
(Cricket  Club  Station),  West  Brighton,  Port  Richmond,  Sharp  Ave., 
Elm  Park,  Erastina,  and  Arlington.  (Last  boat  from  St.  George  12 
p.  M.)  It  is  the  largest  island  in  the  harbor,  having  an  area  of  58j 
square  miles,  and  separated  from  New  Jersey  by  Staten  Island  Sound 
and  the  Kill  Van  Kull,  and  from  Long  Island  by  the  Narrows.  It  is 
connected  with  the  New  Jersey  shore  by  the  Arthur  Kill  bridge,  and 
has  become  the  freight  terminus  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  The 
drives  about  the  upper  part  are  attractive,  especially  those  on  Vander- 
bilt  Ave.,  Richmond  Terrace,  the  Serpentine  and  Clove  Roads.  From 
the  heights  there  are  broad  views  over  harbor  and  ocean.  I'fev}  Bright- 
on is  the  largest  village  on  the  island,  and  contains  the  Castleton  and 
other  fine  summer  hotels,  a  number  of  churches,  and  many  handsome 
villas.  From  Port  Richmond  an  electric  railway  connects  with  Pro- 
hibition Park,  where  during  the  summer  the  American  Institute  of 
Christian  Philosophy  holds  its  meetings.  Horse-cars  and  the  Rapid 
Transit  P.  P.  traverse  the  North  Shore,  and  the  Staten  Island  R.  R. 
runs  from  St.  George  to  Tottenville  (14  miles).  One  mile  S.  E.  of  Clif- 
ton is  "^  Port  Wadsworth,  commanding  a  tine  view  of  the  upper  and 
lower  bays  and  vicinity. 

Bedioe's  Island,  with  Bartholdi's  colossal  statue  of  Liherty  En- 
lightening the  World,  is  reached'  by  ferry  from  pier  adjoining  Staten 
Island  Ferry,  every  hour  from  6  a.  m.  to  7.30  p.  m.  (fare,  25c.,  round- 
trip).  The  statue  was  presented  by  the  French  nation  to  the  American 
people,  the  cost  being  defrayed  by  public  subscription,  and  the  artist, 


Boute  1.]  CONEY   ISLAND.  23 

Auguste  Bartholdi,  taking  no  remuneration.  The  pedestal  was  built 
by  public  subscription  collected  in  the  United  States.  The  weight 
of  the  statue  is  450,000  lbs.  of  copper  and  iron ;  height  from  base  to 
torch,  151  ft.  1  in. ;  from  foundation  to  torch,  305  ft.  6  in.  Total  cost, 
nearly  $1,000,000.  On  the  28th  of  October,  1886,  the  French  delegates 
handed  it  over  to  the  President  of  the  United  States. 

Coney  Island. 

Coney  Island  lies  just  outside  the  Bay,  about  10  miles  from  the  city 
(by  water),  and  consists  of  a  very  narrow  island  4-i-  miles  long  It  is 
separated  from  the  mainland  by  Gravesend  Bay  on  the  west,  Sheepshead 
Bay  on  the  east,  and  Sheepshead  Bay  and  Coney  Island  Creek  on  the 
north,  and  has  the  broad  Atlantic  for  its  southern  boundary.  The  island 
is  divided  into  four  parts,  known  as  Coney  Island  Point,  or  N'oiioii^s,  at 
the  west  end.  West  Brighton  Beach,  Brighton  Beach,  and  Manhattan 
Beach  at  the  east  end.  Brighton  and  Manhattan  have  extensive  hotels, 
complete  opportunity  for  bathing,  and  are  the  preferred  resorts  of  the 
better  class.  Kortonh  possesses  no  attractions.  At  *  West  Brighton 
there  are  two  iron  piers  extending  1,300  feet  into  the  ocean,  with  res- 
taurants, bath-houses,  promenades  ;  and  the  huge  Elephant  Hotel,  built 
in  the  shape  of  an  elephant,  a  camera,  shows,  etc.,  make  a  stirring  but 
rude  scene.  At  this  point  is  the  end  of  the  Ocean  Parkway  drive  from 
Brooklyn.  The  Concourse  which  leads  to  Brighton  Beach  is  a  wide 
drive  and  promenade  nearly  a  mile  long.  Coaches  connect  West  Brigh- 
ton with  *  Brighton  Beach,  where  there  is  a  good  hotel,  and  a 
pavilion  for  parties  with  lunch-baskets.  The  Marine  Railway,  laid  on 
piles,  connects  Brighton  with  *  Manhattan  Beach,  less  than  a  mile 
distant,  which  is  the  most  fashionable  resort  on  the  island.  There  are 
two  hotels  here :  the  Manhattan,  with  wide  piazzas,  large  dining-rooms, 
and  garden,  on  the  European  plan,  and  the  Oriental,  a  family  hotel,  on 
the  Amei-ican  plan.  The  bathing  establishment  has  separate  sections 
for  men  and  women,  an  amphitheatre  with  3,500  seats  for  those  who 
prefer  to  look  on,  and  an  inclosed  beach  for  the  bathers.  There  is 
music  by  an  excellent  band  (admission  25c.  and  10c.)  every  day  at  2 
and  Y.30  p.  m.,  and  a  pyrotechnic  display  every  evening  (50c.  for  re- 
served seats).  A  drive  has  been  laid  out  for  the  guests  of  the  Man- 
hattan Beach  Hotel,  connecting  the  Oriental  with  the  Ocean  Park  Boule- 
vard. It  is  known  as  the  Manhattan  Boulevard,  and  is  60  ft.  wide, 
skirting  the  shores  of  Sheepshead.  Bay. 

To  reacli  Coney  Island..— (1)  Manhattan  Beach  if?  reached  by  trains 
from  Long  Island  City  (ferries  from  James  Slip  and  E.  34tli  St.);  also  by  steam- 
boat from  the  Battery,  east  side  (in  connection  with  the  elevated  trains),  to 
Bay  Eidge,  and  thence  by  rail.  Fare.  25c. ;  excursion  tickets.  40c.  (2)  Brlqhton 
Beach  is  reached  by  Brighton  Beach  E.  E.  from  Prospect  Park  station,  Bedford 
station,  Bergen,  St.  station,  and  Butler  St.  station  in  Brooklyn,  reached  by  cars 
from  the  ferries.  Fare  from  Brooklyn,  25c. ;  excursion  tickets,  40c.  (3)'  West 
Brighton  Beach  is  reached  by  steamboat  direct  to  the  Iron  Pier  from  Pier  No. 
1,  North  Eiver,  at  Battery,  and  foot  of  W.  23d  St.;  also  by  boat  from  east  end 
of  Battery  to  Bay  Eidge,  and  thence  by  the  New  York  and  Sea  Beach  E.  E. 
Fare,  35c.;  excursion,  50c.  From  Brooklyn  ma  Prospect  Park  &  Coney  Island 
E.  E.  (depot  cor.  20th  St.  and  9th  Ave.,  reached  by  horse-cars  from  ferries);  also 
by  horse-cars  from  Fulton  Ferry.     Eound-trip  ticket,  25c.     (4)  From  Brooklyn 


24  LONG  BRANCH.  [Route  1. 

by  the  Brooldyn,  Bath  &  West  End  R.  E.  from  main  entrance  to  Greenwood 
Cemetery;  also  via  Prospect  Park  &  Coney  Island  R.  R.  (depot  cor.  9th  Ave.  & 
20th  St.). 

Rockaway  Beach  has  been  hitherto  a  popular  but  not  fash- 
ionable resort,  and  the  scene  on  the  beach  is  like  that  at  West 
Brigliton.  The  best  hotel  is  the  East  End  Hotel^  situated  on  the  inlet, 
where  good  accommodation  can  be  had.  The  vast  hotel  that  stood  so 
long  unopen  has  been  pulled  down,  and  the  grounds  transformed  into  a 
seaside  resort,  like  Asbury  Park.  The  beach  is  reached  by  railway  from 
Long  Island  City  (34th  St.  ferry ;  round-trip  ticket,  50c.),  and  from  Brook- 
lyn by  the  Long  Island  E.  R.  (depot  cor.  Flatbush  and  Atlantic  Aves.), 
and  by  the  New  York  &  Rockaway  Beach  R.  R.  from  Flatbush  Ave. 
The  favorite  way  of  reaching  it,  however,  is  by  the  large  steamers  from 
New  York  and  Brooklyn.  By  this  route  a  delightful  sail  of  20  miles 
each  way  is  obtained  (round-trip  ticket,  50c.).  A  colossal  tubular  Iron 
Pier^  1,200  ft.  long,  affords  safe  landing  for  steamboats. 

Long  Beach  is  a  favorite  point  for  summer  excursions ;  it  has  an 
excellent  hotel,  numerous  cottages,  good  bathing,  music,  etc.,  and  is  a 
quiet  family  resort,  attracting  a  high  class  of  visitors.  It  is  reached  by 
railway  from  Long  Island  City  (fare,  70c.,  round-trip). 

Long  Branch. 

There  are  three  routes  from  New  York  to  Long  Branch  :  (1)  An  all-rail  route 
by  the  New  York  &  Long  Branch  R.  R.,  operated  in  common  by  the  Central 
R.  R.  of  New  Jersey,  and  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  foot  of  Liberty  St.  (fare.  $1; 
round  trip,  $1.50).  (2)  By  steamer  leaving  Pier  8  North  River,  4  times  daily  in 
summer,  to  Sandy  Hook  (20  miles),  and  thence  via  Sandy  Hook  Div.  of  Central 
R.  R.  of  New  Jersey  (11  miles).  Time,  under  2  hours  ;  fare,  $1.  From  Phila- 
delphia Long  Branch  is  reached  via  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (Amboy  Div.)  ;  dis- 
tance, 79  miles  ;  fare,  $2.25. 

Hotels.— The  West  End,  located  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Beach,  is  very  popu- 
lar. The  EJberon.  at  the  W.  end  of  the  beach,  is  also  a  very  large  hotel.  How- 
land's  Hotel,  N.  of  the  West  End  ;  the  Ocean  House  near  the  R.  R.  depot ;  the 
Hotel  Brighton  on  the  site  of  the  old  "  Metropolitan  ";  and  the  HoVyivood,  open 
all  the  year  round,  are  the  larger  hotels.  The  charges  are  from  $3  to  $5  per  day. 
These  are  the  principal  hotels,  and  are  provided  with  ballrooms,  billiard-rooms, 
brass  and  string  bands,  bowling-alleys,  shooting-galleries,  and  the  like.  Good 
hotels  on  a  smaller  scale  are  the  Atlantic,  lauch's,  Scarboro,  United  States,  and 
others.    Boarding-houses  charge  $10  to  $18  per  week. 

Long  Branch,  the  other  great  summer  resort  in  the  vicinity  of  New 
York,  is  situated  on  the  Jersey  shore  of  the  Atlantic,  where  a  long 
beach  affords  admirable  facilities  for  bathing.  The  old  village  of  Long 
Branch  lies  back  from  the  shore  about  a  mile,  but  the  great  summer 
hotels  and  cottages  occupy  a  broad  plateau  20  ft.  above  the  sea.  Ocean 
Avenue,  on  which  are  the  leading  hotels,  runs  directly  along  the  bluff, 
beneath  which  is  the  beach.  The  regular  time  for  bathing  is  near  high 
tide,  when  white  flags  are  displayed  over  the  hotels,  and  boats  are  sta- 
tioned outside  the  surf-line  to  aid  persons  who  get  into  too  deep  water. 
The  finest  private  cottages  lie  S.  of  the  West  End  Hotel.  The  3fon- 
mouth  Park  Pace-  Course  is  4  miles  from  Long  Branch,  on  the  line  of 
the  New  York  &  Long  Branch  R.  R.  The  Iron  Pier,  running  from 
shore  to  deep  water,  is  worth  attention.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  of 
Long  Branch  are  very  attractive.     One  excellent  road  extends  S.  to  old 


Route  2.]  BROOKLYN.  25 

Long  Branch,  Oceanport,  and  Red  Bank  (8  miles),  and  another  leads 
to  Atlanticville,  Seabright,  and  the  Highlands  (8  miles).  At  Elheron^ 
a  continuation  of  Long  Branch  on  the  south,  is  the  the  Francklyn 
cottage  where  President  Garfield  died.  The  Elberon  Casino  is  worthy 
of  note.  Here  also  is  the  cottage  where  President  Grant  formerly 
passed  his  summer.  Deal  is  a  quaint  old  village  on  the  shore,  5  miles 
S.  of  Long  Branch,  and  near  by  is  the  great  Methodist  camp-meeting 
ground  of  Ocean  Grove.  Beyond  is  Asbury  Park,  containing 
several  hundred  cottages  and  numerous  hotels,  of  which  the  Sheldoii 
House  and  Arlington  at  Ocean  Grove  are  the  principal.  Shark  River, 
just  S.  of  Deal,  is  a  favorite  resort  for  picnickers  from  Long  Branch, 
and  is  noted  for  its  oystei-s  and  crabs.  Pleasure  Bay,  on  the  Shrews- 
bury River,  about  a  mile  N.  of  the  Branch,  is  another  favorite  picnic 
resort,  also  famous  for  its  oysters.  Here  are  several  hotels,  and  yachts 
and  boats  may  be  hired. 

The  Highlands  of  Navesink  are  a  series  of  bold  and  pictur- 
esque bluffs  on  the  Slirewsbury  River,  extending  S.  E.  from  Sandy 
Hook  Bay,  which  are  passed  on  the  way  to  Long  Branch.  The  highest 
point,  Mt.  Mitchell,  is  282  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  and  from  its  summit 
extensive  views  may  be  obtained.  These  highlands  are  usually  the 
first  land  seen  on  approaching  New  York  from  the  ocean,  and  the  last 
to  sink  below  the  horizon  on  leaving.  There  are  two  lighthouses  about 
KX)  ft.  apart  on  Beacon  Hill,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shrewsbury;  the 
southern  one,  a  revolving  "Fresnel,"  248  ft.  above  the  water,  being  one 
of  the  most  powerful  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  On  the  river,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Beacon  Hill,  is  the  little  village  of  Highlands,  an  attractive 
resort,  with  fine  bathing  and  fishing,  and  pleasing  scenery.  The  Red 
Bank  boat  from  New  York  touches  at  Highlands  daily,  and  it  is  also 
reached  via  Sandy  Hook  Div.  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey. 
Red  Bank  is  a  remarkably  pretty  town  of  4,145  inhabitants,  at  the 
head  of  navigation  on  Shrewsbury  River.  It  possesses  among  other 
attractions  sailing,  fishing,  and  bathing,  and  being  only  8  miles  from 
Long  Branch  by  an  excellent  driveway  (9  by  railway),  many  summer 
visitors,  who  wish  to  be  within  easy  reach  of  that  fashionable  resort  yet 
away  from  its  excitement,  pass  the  season  here.  A  branch  of  the  Cen- 
tral R.  R.  of  New  Jersey  runs  from  the  Atlantic  Highlands  to  Raritan 
Bay,  opening  the  country  intervening  to  travel,  and  is  a  convenient  route 
for  reaching  Red  Bank.  Red  Bank  is  reached  from  New  York  by  the 
New  York  &  Long  Branch  R.  R.  (fare,  $1 ;  excursion  ticket,  $1.50); 
also  by  steamer  from  Pier  35,  North  River  (fare,  50c.). 

2.  Brooklyn. 

Brooklyn  is  conveniently  reached  from  the  City  Hall  Park  by  the  East  Eiver 
Bridge,  either  on  foot  or  by  cable-cars  to  Sands,  near  Fulton  St.,  where  the 
street-car  lines  converge. 

Ferries.— The  principal  lines  are  as  follows  :  Fulton  St.  to  Fulton  St. ; 
Whitehall  St.  to  Atlantic  Ave.,  to  Hamilton  Ave.;  and  39th  St..  S.  B.;  and  from 
Wall  St.  to  Montague  St.  There  is  a  line  of  "Annex"  boats  from  Fulton  St., 
Brooklyn,  to  Jersey  City,  connecting  with  the  Pennsylvania  K.  E..  the  Lehigh 
YsUey  R.  E..  and  Fall  River  steamers,  and  during  the  summer  with  Albany  boats. 


26  BROOKLYN.  [Route  2. 

Other  ferries  from  Brooklyn  (E.  D.),  are  :  Grand  St.-to  Grand  and  Houston 
Sts. ;  Broadway  to  Grand,  Koosevelt,  and  23d  Sts. ;  Main  St.  to  Catherine  St. ; 
Long  Island  City  to  34tli  St. ;  and  Greenpoint  Ave.  to  10th  and  23d  Sts. 

Hotels.— The  Pierrepont,  cor.  Montague  and  Hicks  Sts.;  the  8t.  George, 
Clark  and  Hicks  Sts.;  the  Clarendon,  cor.  Washington  and  Johnson  Sts.;  and 
the  Mansion  House  (family  hotel),  Hicks  St..  are  the  only  first-class  houses. 

Kestaurants.— The  leading  ones  are  :  HubeVs,  301  Washington  St. ;  Claren- 
don, Washington  St.  and  Johnson  ;  and  Marisi's,  in  Clinton  St. 

Clubs.— The  leading  clubs  are  the  TJnion  League,  Bedford  Ave.  cor.  Dean 
St.  ;  Monfaulc,  8th  Ave.  and  Lincoln  PI.  ;  the  llaniUton,  cor.  Clinton  and  Eem- 
sen  Sts.;  the  Brooklyn,  cor.  Pierrepont  and  Clinton  Sts.;  the  imcoZra,' 65-„7 
Putnam  Ave  ;  the  Oo:ford,  cor.  S.  Oxford  St.  and  Lafayette  Ave.;  the  Crescent 
Athletic  Club,  with  its  home  at  166  Montague  St.,  and  grounds  on  the  Shore 
Eoad  between  83d  and  85th  Sts. ;  and  the  Hanover,  in  the  Eastern  district,  cor. 
Bedford  Ave.  and  Rodney  St. 

Modes  of  Conveyance.— S?'OoA;Z?/w  Elevated  Bailioay.  The  Broadway 
Line  runs  from  Broadway  Ferry  to  Van  Sicklen  Ave.,  a  distance  of  480  miles  in 
20  minutes.  The  stations  are  :'  Ferry,  Driggs  St.,  Marcy  Ave.,  Hewes  St.,  Lori- 
mer  St.,  Flushing  Ave.,  Park  Ave.,  Stuyvesant  Ave.  (Myrtle  Ave.),  Kosciusko 
St.  (De  Kalb  Ave.),  Gates  Ave.,  Halsey  St.,  Chauncey  St.,  Manhattan  Beach 
R.  R.,  Alabama  Ave.,  'fan  Sicklen  Ave.  Last  train  leaves  ferry  at  12.34  A.  m. 
Passeng:ers  are  transferred  to  and  from  Broadway  and  main-line  trains  at  Gates 
Ave.,  either  way.  Connection  is  made  with  the  Long  Island  R.  R.  at  Manhat- 
tan Junction,  East  New  York,  and  with  the  Canarsie  &  Rockaway  Beach  R.  R. 
at  Alabama  Ave.  The  Brooklyn  Bridge,  Grand,  and  Lexington  Ave.  Line 
runs  from  Brooklyn  Bridge  to  Van  Sicklen  Ave.,  a  distance  of  '6'41  miles,  in  30 
mimites.  The  stations  are  :  Sands  and  Washington  Sts.,  Myrtle  Ave.  and 
Adams  St.,  Bridge  St.,  Navy  St.,  Vanderbilt  A.ve.,  Washington  Ave.,  Myrtle 
and  Grand  Aves.,  De  Kalb  Ave.,  Greene  Ave.,  Franklin  Ave.,  Nostrand  Ave., 
Tompkins  Ave.,  Sumner  Ave.,  Reid  Ave  ,  Gates  Ave.,  Halsey  St..  Chauncey  St., 
Manhattan  Beach  R.  R.,  Alabama  Ave.,  Van  Sicklen  Ave.  Trains  run  at  inter- 
vals of  30  minutes  during  the  night.  The  otJi  Ave.  Line  runs  from  the  Brooklyn 
Bridge  to  5th  Ave.  and  36th  St.,  a  distance  of  4-25  miles,  in  20  minutes.  The 
stations  are  :  Brooklvn  Bridge,  Citv  Hall,  Bridge  St.,  Fulton  St.,  Flatbush  and 
Atlantic  Aves.  (L.  I  ^R.  R.  station)",  St.  Mark's  PL,  Union  St..  3d  St.,  9th  St., 
16th  St.,  20th  St.,  25th  St.,  36th  St.  Last  train  leaves  the  bridge  at  1.25  a.  la. 
The  Fulton  Ferry  and  Myrtle  Ave.  Line  runs  from  Fulton  ferry  to  Wyckolf 
Ave.,  Ridgewood,  a  distance  of  4-91  miles,  in  24  minutes.  The  stations  are  : 
Fulton  Perry,  Washington  and  York  Sts.,  Bridge  and  York  Sts.,  on  Myrtle  Ave., 
Navy  St.,  Vanderbilt  Ave.,  Washington  Ave.,  Myrtle  and  Grand  Aves.,  Franklin 
Ave.,  ISostrand  Ave.,  Tompkins  Ave.,  Sumner  Ave.,  Broadway  and  Myrtle  Ave., 
Evergreen  Ave.,  De  Kalb  Ave.,  Knickerbocker  Ave.,  Wyckoff  Ave.  Last  train 
leaves  ferry  at  12.48  a.  m.  The  Fidton  Elevated  Boihvay,  with  its  road  under 
construction,  is  built  and  operated  under  lease  to  the  Kings  County  Elevated 
Railway  Company  as  far  as  Scheuck  Ave.  Its  route  is  by  way  of  Fulton  and 
Sackman  Sts.  to  Jamaica  Ave.,  to  Williams  PL,  to  Snediker  Ave.,  to  Eastern 
Parkway,  to  Market  St.,  to  Liberty  Ave.,  to  city  line.  The  length  completed 
is  1'5  miles,  and  the  stations  are  Manhattan  Crossing,  Atlantic  Ave.,  Eastern 
Park,  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  and  Van  Sicklen  Ave.  The  Kings  County  Elevated 
Railway  runs  from  Fulton  Ferry  and  Brooklyn  Bridge  to  Montauk  Ave.,  a  dis- 
tance of  7|  miles,  in  30  minutes.  The  stations  are  :  Fulton  Ferry.  Brooklyn 
Bridge,  Clark  St.,  Tillary  St..  Court  St..  Myrtle  Ave.,  Boerum  PL,  Elm  PL,  Duffield 
St.,  Flatbush  Ave.,  Lafayette  Ave.,  Cumberland  St. .  Vanderbilt  Ave.,  Grand  Ave.. 
Franklin  Ave.,  Nostrand  Ave.,  Brooklyn  Ave.,  Tompkins  Ave.,  Albany  Ave., 
Sumner  Ave.,  Utica  Ave.,  Ralph  Ave.,  Saratoga  Ave.,  Rockaway  Ave.,  Man- 
hattan Crossing,  Atlantic  Ave.,  Eastern  Park,  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  Van  Sicklen 
Ave.,  Linwood  St..  and  Montauk  Ave.  Up  stations  only  are  Clark  St.,  Court 
St.,  Elm  PL,  and  Brooklyn  Ave.  ;  down  stations  only  are  Sumner  Ave.,  Tomp- 
kins Ave.,  Duffield  St.,  Myrtle  Ave.,  and  Tillary  St.  Trains  for  bridge  and 
ferry  display  no  signals  ;  for  bridge  only,  white  signals  ;  for  ferry  only,  green 
signals.  Trains  on  this  line  run  continuously  day  and  night,  and  from  12.30 
A.  M.  to  5  A.  M.  every  45  minutes.    Fare,  5c. 

Street-car  Lines  connect  with  Atlantic,  Fulton,  Broadway,  and  other 
ferries,  and  with  the  Bridge,  and  there  are  numerous  cross-town  roads.   Fare,  5c. 


Route  2.]  BROOEXT]^.  27 

Surface  Railways  (steam)  are:  Brooklyn  S  Brighfori  Beach  B.  E.  (station 
at  Franklia  and  Atlantic  Ave.),  to  Brighton  Beach  ;  Long  Iskind  By.  (same 
place,  main  station  at  Flathush  Ave.),  to  Long  Island  Ciity  and  Sag  Harbor, 
and  intermediate  points,  and  to  Manhattan  Beach ;  Brospect  Bark  &  Coney 
Mancl  By.  (station,  9th  Ave.  and  20th  St.),  to  West  Brighton  Beach  ;  New  York 
cfi  Sea  Beach  B.  B.  (station,  3d  Ave.  and  65th  St.).  to  West  Brighton  Beach : 
Brooklyn,  Bath  <k  West  End  By.  (Fifth  Ave.  and  25th  St.),  to  West  End,  Coney 
Island. 

Hackney-coaches  and  Cabs  have  stands  at  Fnlton  Ferry,  the  Bridge  (Sands 
St. ),  and  the  City  Hall.  Each  carriage  contains  a  card  of  the  legal  rates,  but  the 
charge  should  be  settled  before  starting. 

Brooklyx,  the  fourth  largest  city  in  the  United  States,  lies  just 
across  East  River  from  Xew  York,  at  the  W.  end  of  Long  Island.  Its 
extreme  length  fi'om  N.  to  S.  is  Yf  miles,  and  its  average  breadth  34-, 
embracing  an  area  of  20-84  square  miles.  The  surface  is  elevated  and 
diversified.  Brooklyn  was  settled  in  1623,  near  Wallabout  Bay,  by  a 
band  of  Walloons,  and  during  the  Revolutionary  War  was  the  scene  of 
events  that  give  great  interest  to  some  of  its  localities.  On  the  Heights 
l)aek  of  the  city  the  battle  of  Long  Island  was  fought  (Aug.  26,  1'7'76), 
and  the  Americans  defeated  with  a  loss  of  2,000  out  of  5,000  men. 
The  population  of  Brooklyn  was  3,298  in  1800,  566,689  in  1880,  and 
806,343  in  1890.  The  main  business  street  is  Fulton  Street,  from 
Fulton  Ferrv  to  East  Xew  York  (5|  miles).  Atlantic  Ave.  runs  nearly 
parallel  with  Fulton  St.  from  South  Ferry  to  East  Xew  York :  it  is 
an  active  business  street  in  its  lower  part,  and  from  Flatbush  Ave.  to 
East  Xew  York  is  occupied  by  the  tracks  of  the  "  rapid  transit "  rail- 
road. *  Clinton  Ave.  is  the  handsomest  street  in  the  city,  being 
embowered  with  trees  and  lined  with  fine  residences  surrounded  by  orna- 
mental grounds.  St.  Marie's  Place  is  scarcely  less  attractive.  Remsen 
and  Montague  Sts.,  on  the  Heights,  contain  many  fine  residences;  and 
from  *  Montague  Terrace.^  on  the  latter,  is  obtained  a  magnificent  ^iew 
of  Xew  York  city  and  harbor.  The  favorite  drive  is  through  Prospect 
Park  and  along  the  *  Ocean  Parkway,  a  splendid  boulevard  210  ft. 
wide,  extending  from  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  the  Park  to  the  sea-shore  at 
Coney  Island  (Si  miles).  The  Eastern  Parkv:ay,  also  a  popular  drive, 
extends  from  the  Park  entrance  to  East  Xew  York  (2-J^  miles).  Still 
another  attractive  drive  is  to  Bay  Ridge  and  Fort  Hamilton. 

The  City  Hall  (reached  from  Fulton  Ferry  via  Fulton  St.  in  ^  mile) 
is  within  easy  walking  distance  of  nearly  all  the  public  buildings  in 
Brooklyn  that  are  worth  attention.  It  is  of  white  marble  in  the  Ionic 
style,  sui'mounted  by  a  belfry  with  a  four-dial  clock,  and  stands  in  an 
open  square.  Just  E.  of  the  Hall,  fronting  toward  Fulton  St.,  is  the 
*  County  Court-House,  a  large  building  with  white-marble  front, 
with  a  Corinthian  portico,  and  an  iron  dome  104  ft.  high.  On  the  W. 
of  the  Court-House  stands  the  Municipal Btcildinc/,  of  marble,  4  stories 
high,  with  a  tower  at  each  of  the  4  corners,  and  on  the  E.  the  Hall  of 
Records.  On  the  plaza  in  front  of  the  City  Hall  is  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's 
statue  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher.  A  short  distance  W.  of  the  City  Hall, 
cor.  Clinton  and  Pierrepont  Sts.,  is  the  Lo7iff  Island  Historiccd  Society 
building,  containing  a  valuable  reference  library  of  50,000  volumes  and 
many  curious  relics  (free).     In  Fulton  St.,  opposite  the  City  Hall,  is  the 


28  BROOKLYN.  [Route  2. 

Park  Theatre.  Other  theatres  are  the  Cohtmbia  Theatre  (cor.  Tillary 
and  Washington  Sts.),  Grand  Opera-House  (Elm  Place,  near  Fulton  St.), 
Star  Theatre  (Jay  St,,  near  Fulton),  Hyde  and  JBehman's  Theatre  (Adams 
St.,  near  Myrtle  Ave.),  Araphion  Academy  (Bedford  Ave.,  near  Division 
Ave.,  E.  D.)  Lee  Avenue  Academy  (Lee  Ave.,  near  Division  Ave.,  E.  D.), 
and  the  Bedford  Avenue  Theatre  (South  6th  St.,  near  Broadway,  E.  D.). 
The  Post-Office,  at  the  intersection  of  Washington,  Adams,  and  Johnson 
Sts.,  is  the  finest  public  building  in  the  city,  built  of  granite  and  iron, 
at  a  cost  of  $5,000,000.  In  Montague  St.",  W.  of  the  City  Hall,  is  the 
Academy  of  Ihtsic,  a  brick  building  of  slight  architectural  merit,  but  with 
fine  interior  decorations.  Adjoining  it  is  the  Art  Association  building, 
with  highly  ornate  front.  Opposite  is  the  Brooklyn  Liibrary,  a  hand- 
some structure  in  the  Gothic  style,  containing  100,000  volumes  and  two 
reading-rooms.  At  the  cor.  of  Clinton  St.  is  the  beautiful  *  Church 
of  the  Holy  Trinity  (Episcopal),  in  the  decorated  Gothic  style,  with 
stained  windows,  and  a  spire  275  ft.  high.  To  the  left,  down  Clinton 
St.  (cor.  Livingston),  is  the  church  of  St.  Ann  (Episcopal),  in  the  pointed 
Gothic  style,  with  ornate  interior.  To  the  right,  in  Pierrepont  St.,  is  the 
Dtdch  Reformed.  CMirch,  of  brown-stone  in  the  Roman  Corinthian  style, 
with  a  Corinthian  portico,  and  a  rich  interior.  Near  by  (cor.  Pierrepont 
St.  and  Monroe  Place)  is  the  Unitarian  Church  of  the  Saviour,  a  struct- 
ure in  the  pointed  Gothic  style.  Other  noteworthy  churches  in  this 
vicinity  are  Grace  (Episcopal),  cor.  Grace  Court  and  Hicks  St. ;  Christ 
(Episcopal),  cor.  Clinton  and  Harrison  Sts. ;  and  the  Church  of  the  Pil- 
grims (Congregational),  cor.  Remsen  and  Henry  Sts.  PlymoiUh  Church 
(Lyman  Abbott)  is  a  large,  plain  building  hi  Orange  St.  near  Hicks. 
Other  churches  are  the  Lcfayette  Ave.  Presbyterian,  the  Clinton  Ave. 
Congregationcd,  the  "^Vejo"  Church,  Monroe  Place,  and  the  Tabernacle 
(or  Dr.  Talmage's  church),  cor.  Clinton  and  Greene  Aves.  The  church 
of  "^St.  Charles  Borromeo  (R.  C),  in  Sidney  Place,  is  famous  for  its 
music.  Pratt  Institute,  on  Ryerson  St.,  between  De  Kalb  and  Willoughby 
Aves.,  founded  by  Charles  Pratt,  comprises  classes  for  thorough  instruc- 
tion in  trades  and  useful  arts,  for  both  sexes.  It  has  a  large  library, 
maintains  lecture  courses,  and  is  one  of  the  most  complete  and  extensive 
institutions  of  its  kind  in  this  country.  The  Brooklyn  Polytechnic  Listi- 
tution,  on  Livingston  St.,  directly  S.  of  the  City  Hall,  is  the  only  college 
in  Brooklyn.  The  Long  Island  College  Hospitcd.  has  a  large  and  imposing 
building,  in  extensive  grounds,  in  Henry  St.,  near  Pacific.  The  County 
Jail,  in  Raymond  St.,  is  a  castellated  Gothic  edifice  of  red  sandstone ;  the 
Penitentiary  is  an  immense  stone  pile  in  Nostrand  Ave.  near  the  city  lim- 
its. The  Young  Men''s  Christian  Association  has  a  fine  building  in  Ful- 
ton St.,  cor.  Bond  St.,  with  library  (21,000  vols.)  and  reading-room  (free). 
In  crossing  Fulton  Ferry  to  or  from  New  York  the  massive  towers 
and  ponderous  cables  of  the* East  River  Bridge  are  conspicuous 
objects.  This  bridge  has  already  been  described  in  section  on  New 
York  City.  The  United  States  Navy-  Yard  (reached  by  horse-cars  from 
Fulton  Ferry),  on  the  S.  shore  of  Wallabout  Bay,  is  the  chief  naval  sta- 
tion of  the  Republic.  It  contains  45  acres,  inclosed  by  a  high  brick 
wall,  within  which  are  numerous  foundries,  workshops,  and  storehouses. 


Route  3.]  ISTEW    YOEK    TO    PHILADELPHIA.  29 

Representative  vessels  of  every  kind  used  in  the  U.  S.  navy  may  usually 
be  seen  at  the  Yard.  The  *  Atlantic  Dock,  at  the  south  end  of 
the  city,  a  mile  below  South  Ferry,  has  a  basin  which  covers  an  area  of 
42^  acres,  and  surrounding  it  are  piers  of  solid  granite,  on  which  are 
spacious  warehouses. 

*  Prospect  Park  (reached  by  several  lines  of  cars  from  Fulton  or 
Broadway  Ferries)  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  America.  It  contains 
516-^-  acres,  is  situated  on  an  elevated  ridge,  and  commands  magnificent 
views  of  the  two  cities,  of  the  inner  and  outer  harbor.  Long  Island,  the 
Jersey  shore,  and  the  Atlantic.  It  is  beautifully  shaded  in  many  parts  by 
old  woods  which  have  been  skillfully  improved,  and  its  combination  of 
broad  meadows,  grassy  slopes,  and  wooded  hills,  is  unequaled  elsewhere. 
It  contains  8  miles  of  drives,  4  miles  of  bridle-paths,  and  11  miles 
of  walks.  The  main  entrance  on  Flatbush  Ave.,  known  as  the  Plaza,  is 
paved  with  stone  and  bordered  by  grassy  mounds ;  in  the  center  are  a  fine 
fountain  and  a  bronze  statue  of  President  Lincoln.  A  memorial  arch 
to  the  soldiers  and  sailors  stands  at  the  entrance  to  the  Park.  Park 
carriages,  starting  from  the  entrance,  make  the  circuit  of  the  leading 
points  of  interest  (fare,  25c.).  WasJmifffon  Park  (30  acres)  is  an  ele- 
vated plateau  ^  mile  E.  of  City  Hall,  between  Myrtle  and  De  Kalb  Aves., 
commanding  extensive  views.  During  the  Revolutionary  War  it  was  the 
site  of  extensive  fortifications,  of  which  Fort  Greene  was  the  principal. 

*  Greenwood  Cemetery  (reached  by  cars  from  Fulton,  Wall, 
and  Hamilton  Ferries,  and  by  5th  Ave.  Branch  of  Union  Elevated 
R.  R.)  is  situated  on  Gowanus  Heights  in  the  S.  portion  of  the  city.  It 
contains  474  acres,  and  more  than  270,000  intei^ments  have  been  made 
in  it  since  its  opening  in  1843.  The  main  entrance,  near  5th  Ave. 
and  23d  St.,  is  an  elegant  monumental  structure  in  the  pointed  Gothic 
style,  ornamented  with  sculptures  representing  scenes  from  the  Gospels  ; 
and  the  later  entrance  on  the  E.  side  is  of  scarcely  inferior  beauty. 
The  grounds  have  a  varied  surface  of  hill,  valley,  and  plam,  and  are 
traversed  by  19  miles  of  carriage-roads  and  17  miles  of  footpaths. 
The  elevations  afford  extensive  views.  There  are  many  beautiful 
monuments,  chief  among  which  are  the  Pilots'  and  Firemen's,  Charlotte 
Canda's,  and  that  to  the  "mad  poet"  McDonald  Clark.  By  keeping 
in  the  main  avenue  called  The  Tour^  as  indicated  by  finger-posts, 
visitors  will  obtain  the  best  general  view  of  the  cemetery,  and  will  be 
able  to  regain  the  entrance  without  difficulty.  About  4  miles  E.  of 
Greenwood  are  the  cemeteries  of  llie  Evergreens^  covering  360  acres, 
and  Cypress  Hills,  340  acres. 

3.  New  York  to  Philadelphia. 

a.  Via  Pennsylvania  R.  i2.,  90  miles.  Limited  Express  of  parlor-ears, 
10  A.M.  There  are  23  other  trains  on  loeek  days  and  16  on  Sun- 
days.    Time,  if  to  2%  hours.     Fare,  %2.50.     Round-trip  ticket,  §.^. 

Ferry-boats  run  from  foot  of  Desbrosses  and  Cortlandt  Sts.  every 
ten  minutes  during  the  day ;  also  from  Fulton  St.,  Brooklyn  (Penn- 
sylvania "Annex"  boat),  every  half -hour,  to  Jersey  City  depot.     Jer- 


30  NEW    YORK    TO    PHILADELPHIA.  [Route  3. 

sey  City  is  on  the  Hudson  River,  opposite  New  York,  of  which  it  is 
practically  a  portion.  It  is  a  place  of  much  commercial  and  industrial 
activity,  is  agreeably  situated  and  well  built,  and  had  in  1890  a  popula- 
tion of  163,003 ;  but,  except  for  the  fact  that  it  contains  the  stations  of 
several  of  the  most  important  railways  leading  south  and  west  from  New 
Yoi-k,  and  the  docks  of  leading  transatlantic  steamers,  it  possesses  no 
interest  for  the  tourist.  The  route  after  leaving  Jersey  City  is  across 
broad  meadows  to  Newark  {Continental  and  Park)  (9  miles),  a  large 
manufacturing  city  with  181,830  inhabitants,  but,  like  its  rival  Jersey 
City,  offering  little  of  interest  to  the  tourist.  The  city  is  on  an  elevated 
plain  upon  the  right  bank  of  the  Passaic  River,  4  miles  from  Newark 
Bay,  and  is  regularly  laid  out  in  wide  streets  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles.  Broad  St.  is  the  main  business  thoroughfare,  and  runs  N. 
and  S.  through  the  heart  of  the  city.  The  principal  E.  and  W.  street 
is  Market  St.,  on  which  are  some  of  the  finest  buildings,  including  the 
Court-House,  an  imposing  stone  edifice  in  the  Egyptian  style.  Other 
noteworthy  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall  (cor.  Broad  and  William 
Sts.),  the  Custom-House  and  Post- Office  (cor.  Broad  and  Academy),  and 
many  handsome  churches.  The  building  of  the  Mutual  Benefit  Life 
Ins.  Co.  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  State.  Of  the  literary  institu- 
tions the  most  noteworthy  are  the  Library  Association  (20,000  vol- 
umes), the  State  Historical  Society.^  and  the  Neiiiark  Academy.  From 
the  grounds  of  the  latter  (on  High  St.)  an  extensive  view  of  the  Passaic 
Valley  is  had.  Newark  is  distinguished  for  its  manufactures  of  jewelry, 
carriages,  paper,  and  leather  ;  and  its  lager-beer  is  excellent. 

Six  miles  beyond  Newark  is  Elizabeth  {Sheridan  House),  one  of 
the  attractive  cities  in  New  Jersey,  with  37,'7G4  inhabitants,  and  many 
fine  residences,  a  few  of  which  are  visible  from  the  cars.  New 
Brunswick  {Weio  Brunsivick)  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  Raritan 
River  (32  miles  from  New  York),  has  a  population  of  some  18,603,  with 
extensive  manufactures  of  India-rubber,  harness,  and  hosiery.  There 
are  fine  residences  in  the  upper  part  of  the  city,  but  the  "  institution  " 
of  New  Brunswick  is  Rutgers  College,  an  old,  richly-endowed,  and  flour- 
ishiug  establishment.  The  buildings  are  visible  from  the  cars.  Prince- 
ton Junction  (48  miles)  is  2i  miles  from  Princeton,  noted  as  the  seat  of 
Princeton  College  {Kassau  Hotel).  The  college  buildings  (especially 
,the  Library,  Nassau  Hall,  and  Dickinson  Hall)  are  re;xiarkably  fine,  and 
stand  in  a  green  and  shady  campus.  A  branch  line  conveys  passen- 
gers from  the  junction  to  the  town.  Trenton  {American,  National, 
Windsor)  (58  miles)  is  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  and  is  pleasantly 
situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Delaware.  It  had  in  1890  a 
population  of  57,458,  with  important  manufacturing  interests  (chief 
among  which  are  the  potteries),  and  is  a  remarkably  well-built,  cleanly, 
and  attractive  town.  State  St.  is  the  principal  thoroughfare,  and  next 
to  this  is  Greene  St.,  which  crosses  State  at  right  angles.  Tlae  leading 
event  in  the  past  history  of  Trenton  is  the  famous  victory  over  the  Hes- 
sians won  by  Washington,  Dec.  26,  1776;  and  its  chief  present  attrac- 
tions are  the  public  buildings.  The  State-House  (in  State  St.)  is  a  stone 
structure,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Delawai-e,  and  overlooking  the 


Route  3.]  ^'EW    YOEK    TO    PHILADELPHIA.  31 

river  and  vicinity.  The  Post- Office^  also  in  State  St.,  is  a  massive  stone 
building  in  the  Renaissance  style ;  and  the  vast  State  Penitentiary  (in 
Federal  St.),  the  State  Arsenal  (near  the  Penitentiary),  and  the  State 
Lunatic  Asylum  (1-^  mile  N.  of  the  city)  are  all  worth  visiting.  The 
only  place  between  Trenton  and  Philadelphia  requiring  mention  is  Bris- 
tol (67  miles),  a  pretty  town  of  6,553  inhabitants,  on  the  Delaware  nearly 
opposite  Burlington. 

h.  Via  ''Bound  Brook  Route,''  88  miles.  Time,  1%  to  2\  hours. 
Drawing-room  cars  with  all  trains. 
The  depot  in  Jersey  City,  a  splendid  structure  of  iron,  is  reached 
by  ferry  fi-om  foot  of  Liberty  St.  The  country  along  this  route  is  very 
similar  in  character  to  that  along  the  preceding  route,  but  there  are 
fewer  large  towns  and  a  scantier  population.  Highly  cultivated  farms 
and  smiling  orchards  stretch  away  on  every  side,  and  the  prospect  in 
summer  is  very  pleasing.  The  first  station  that  will  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  the  traveler  is,  Elizabeth  (13  miles),  which  has  been  described 
on  page  30,  and  the  only  important  town  on  the  route  is  Plain  field 
(24  miles),  containing  some  11, 267  inhabitants,  and  pleasantly  situ- 
ated near  the  foot  of  Orange  Mountain.  Washington's  Rock  (seen 
from  the  train  on  the  right)  is  on  the  mountain  2  miles  W.  of  Plain- 
field,  and  is  noted  as  the  place  whence  Washington  watched  the 
movements  of  the  enemy  during  the  campaign  in  this  vicinity.  At 
Bound  Brook  (31  miles)  the  Americans  were  defeated  in  \1*11  by 
Lord  Cornwallis.  A  short  branch  road  diverges  from  the  regular  route 
and  runs  to  Trenton. 

c.    Via  Amboy  Division  of  the  Penn.  R.  i?.,  9£  miles.     Time,  5  hours. 

This  route  was  formerly  much  used,  but  with  the  increased  facili- 
ties for  rapid  transit,  it  is  now  seldom  taken,  except  by  tourists  anx- 
ious to  see  the  country. 

From  pier  6  North  River,  foot  of  Rector  St.,  a  steamer  runs  daily, 
at  2.30  p.  M.,  to  South  Amboy  (27  miles),  and  the  sail  past  the  shores 
of  Staten  Island,  and  up  the  Raritan  River,  is  very  pleasant,  particu- 
larly in  summer.  South  Amboy  is  situated  on  Raritan  Bay,  at  the 
mouth  of  Raritan  River,  across  which  is  Perth  Amboy  {Hotel  Centred), 
a  port  of  entry,  and  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  Xew  Jersey,  much  fre- 
quented in  summer.  At  South  Amboy  the  cars  are  taken,  and  the  route 
leads  through  a  barren  and  uninteresting  country  to  the  Delaware  River 
at  Bordentown  (64  miles).  Bordento'»vn  {Bordentown  House)  is  a 
flourishing  town  of  4,232  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Delaware,  with  extensive  foundries  and  machine-shops,  and  the  terminal 
basins  of  the  Delaware  and  Raintan  Canal.  The  principal  object  of  in- 
terest is  the  mansion  and  park  occupied  for  26  years  by  Joseph  Bona- 
parte, once  King  of  Spain.  Burlington  (73  miles)  is  a  city  of  7,264 
inhabitants  on  the  Delaware,  19  miles  above  Philadelphia,  whence  it  is 
much  visited  in  summer  by  steamboat.  Burlington  College  (Episcopal) 
is  located  here,  and  there  are  handsome  churches  and  school-buildings. 
Camden  (Hobkirk  Inn,  West  Jersey  House  ;  92  miles)  is  a  flourishing 


32  PHILADELPHIA.  [Route  4. 

city  of  58,313  inhabitants  on  the  Delaware  opposite  Philadelphia,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  4  ferries.  It  is  the  terminus  also  of  the  West 
Jersey  and  Camden  &  Atlantic  and  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  Rail- 
ivays  ;  and  there  are  extensive  ship-yards,  besides  manufactures  of  iron, 
glass,  chemicals,  etc. 

4.  Philadelphia. 

Hotels.— The  leading  hotels  on  the  American  plan  are  the  Continental,  cor. 
Chestnut  and  9th  Sts.;  the  Girard  House,  on  Chestnut  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Gth 
St. ;  the  Colonnade,  cor.  Chestnut  and  15th  Sts. ;  the  Stratford,  cor.  Broad  and 
Walnut  Sts.;  the  Aldine,  1914  Chestnut  St.;  the  Belleviie,  cor.  of  Walnut  and  S. 
Broad ;  the  Bingham,  cor.  11th  and  Market ;  Giu/s  Hotel,  7th  and  Chestnut 
Sts.;  and  the  Windsor  Hotel.  1219  Filbert  St.,  are  much  patronized.  The  Hotel 
Lafayette,  108  S.  Broad  St. ;  the  Stratford,  cor.  Broad  and  Walnut ;  and  Green's, 
Chestnut  and  8th  Sts.,  are  conducted  on  both  the  American  and  European  plans. 
The  Stentcn,  cor.  Broad  and  Spruce  Sts.,  is  on  the  European  plan.  The  rates 
on  the  American  plan  are  from  $2.50  to  $5  a  day ;  on  the  European  plan  the 
charges  are  $1  to  |3  a  day  for  rooms. 

Restaurants. — The  Bellevve,  cor.  of  Broad  and  Walnut ;  the  Colonade,  cor. 
Chestnut  and  15th  Sts.;  Dooner''s,  in  10th  St.,  north  of  Chestnut ;  Green's,  cor. 
Chestnut  and  8th  Sts.;  BoldPs,  on  4th  St.  below  Chestnut :  and  Tendig''s,  cor. 
12th  and  Market  Sts.,  are  first  class.  Partridge's,  19  S.  8th  St.  and  15  N.  8th 
St.,  and  CabadVs.  5  S.  8th  St.,  are  much  frequented  by  ladies.  Other  first-class 
restaurants  are  those  attached  to  the  hotels  on  the  European  plan. 

Modes  of  CoiiTeyance.— The  streets  are  traversed  by  horse  and  cable- 
cars  between  the  Delaware  and  42d  St.,  on  Market  and  Chestnut  Sts. ;  by  cable- 
cars  from  Columbia  Ave.  entrance  to  Fairmount  Park,  to  Delaware  Ave.  and 
Market  Sts.,  and  N.  on  9th  St.,  and  S.  on  7th  St.;  and  by  horse-cars  on  almost 
every  principal  street,  north,  east,  south,  and  west,  to  any  point  of  interest  in 
the  city.  The  fare  is  5c.,  and  points  on  any  connecting  line  may  be  reached  by 
transfer.  There  is  also  a  line  of  omnibuses  on  Broad  St.,  conducted  on  the  Eng- 
lish plan.  Carriages  are  found  at  all  the  depots,  and  at  various  stands.  The 
fares  are  regulated  by  law,  and  a  card  containing  them  should  be  in  every  car- 
riage. There  are  also  Hansom  cabs,  carrying  two  people,  rate  65c.  per  hour. 
In  case  of  dispute,  call  a  policeman,  or  apply  at  the  Mayor's  office. 

Kailroad  Stations.— The  station  of  the  Pennsylvania  B.  B.  for  Wilming- 
ton and  Baltimore,  New  York  and  Pittsburg,  and  of  the  SchuylMll  Valley,  B.  B. 
(division  of  the  same),  is  at  Broad  and  Market  Sts. ;  of  the  Amboy  Bivision  (for 
New  York)  by  ferry  from  foot  of  MarketSt.  to  Camden  ;  of  the  Bhiladel2ihia 
&  Beading  B.  B.  (main  line),  and  of  its  JSorth  Pennsylvania  Division,  cor.  12th 
and  Market  Sts. ;  of  the  West  Chester  &  Philadelphia,  cor.  Broad  and  Market 
Sts.;  ol  the  Bound  Brook  Boute  (Philadelphia  &  Reading)  to  New  York,  and 
the  Germantoivn  &  JVorristown,  cot.  12th  and  Market  Sts.;  of  the  Baltimore  & 
Ohio  at  Chestnut  St.  Bridge.  The  Camden  &  Atlantic  is  reached  by  ferry  from 
foot  of  Vine  St.;  the  West  Jersey,  by  ferry  from  foot  of  Market  St.';  the  Bhila- 
delphia  &  Atlantic  City,  by  ferry  from  foot  of  Walnut  St. 

Ferries.— To  Camden  (fare  3c.)  from  foot  of  Market  St.,  Vine  St.,  Walnut 
St.,  South  St..  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  and  from  Shackamaxon  St.  in 
Kensington.    To  Gloucester,  N.  J.,  from  foot  of  South  St.  (fare  lOc). 

Ch-urclies. — Among  the  550  churches  the  following  are  those  most  vis- 
ited :  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Beter  and  St.  Bavl  (Eoman  Catholic),  in  Logan 
Square,  18th  St.;  St.  John's,  13th  St.  above  Chestnut,  noted  for  its  fine  music  ; 
St.  Beter's  (Episcopal),  3d  and  Pine  Sts.,  a  relic  of  the  early  days  of  the  city  ; 
the  Holy  Trinity  (Episcopal),  cor.  19th  and  Walnut;  St.  Stephen's  (Episco- 
pal), in  lOth  St.  near  Market,  with  the  beautiful  Burd  monument ;  St.  An- 
drew's (Episcopal),  in  8th  St.  near  Spruce ;  the  First  Baptist,  cor.  Broad  and 
Arch  Sts.;  the  West  Arch  St.  Bresbyterian,  in  Arch  St.:  Bethany  (Pveshyte- 
rian),  22d  and  Bainbridge  Sts.,  with  the  largest  Sunday-school  in  the  country  ; 
the  Second  Bresbyterian,  cor.  21st  and  Walnut ;  the  Washington  Sqvare  Bres- 
byterian; the  Arch  St.  Methodist,  cor.  Broad  and  Arch  Sts.;  the  Lutheran 
Church,  cor.  Broad  and  Arch ;  the  Gloria  Dei  (Old  Swede),  Swansou  below 
Christian  St.  (1698);  Christ  Church,  2d  above  Market  St.  (1695);  and  the  Jewish 


Route  4.]  PHILADELPHIA.  33 

Synagogue,  in  Broad  St.  near  Green.  Very  fine  new  churches  on  N.  Broad  St. 
are  the  Unicersalist  ClnncJi  of  (he  Messiah,  cor.  Montgomery  Ave.;  X\\e  Memo- 
rial Bapii^'t  and  Grace  Methodist,  cor.  Master  St.  Among  the  Friends'  meeting- 
houses those  at  the  cor.  of  Arch  and  4th  and  Hace  and  15th  Sts.  are  best  worth 
a  visit.  The  Tabernacle  (Presbyterian),  37th  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  St.  James 
(Catholic),  at  38th  and  Chestnut  Sts..  and  Christ  Memorial,  43d  and  Chestnut 
Sts..  are  handsome  structures. 

Tlieatres  and  Armisements.— The  Academy  of  Music,  cor.  of  Broad  and 
Locust  Sts.,  is  one  of  the  largest  houses  in  America,  with  sittings  for  3,000  per- 
sons. It  is  used  for  operas,  concerts,  lectures,  balls,  etc.  The  Opera-Hcvse  is  at 
the  cor.  of  Broad  St.  and  Montgomery  Av.  The  Ai'ch  St.  Theatre  (Mrs.  John 
Dre^^"s)  is  in  Arch  St.,  near  Gth.  The  Chestnut  St.  Theatre  is  in  Chestnut  St. 
abo^e  12th  ;  Chestnut  St.  Opera-Hovse,  Chestnut  above  ICth  ;  Broad  St.  Theatre 
is  in  Broad  St.  near  Locust ;  Eleventh  St.  Opera-House  in  11th  St.  above  Chest-' 
nut;  National,  ICth  and  Callowhill  Sts.;  Lyceum,  Pace  below  8th  St.;  Fore- 
pavcjWs,  8th  below  Vine  St.  Other  theatres  are  the  Central,  in  Walnut  St. 
above  Bh  ;  Bijov,  in  8th  above  Pace  ;  Netv  Park,  cor.  Broad  and  Fairmouut 
Ave.;  Kensington,  Franklin  Ave.  and  Morris  St.;  Qermania,  532  N.  3d;  Em- 
pire, Broad  and  Locust  Sts.;  Girard  Ave.,  Girard  Ave.,  above  1.5th  St.;  People's, 
Kensington  Ave.  and  Cumberland  St.;  Keller's  Egyptian  Hall,  Chestnut,  above 
12th  St.:  andi  Standard,  in  South  St.  above  11th.  Musical  entertainments  are 
given  at  the  Brexel  InstUvte,  Chestnut  and  32d  Sts. ;  Musical  Fund  Hall,  in 
Locust  St.  below  9th ;  at  Association  HdU,  cor.  Chestnut  and  15th  ;  at  St. 
George's  Hall.  cor.  Arch  and  13th  Sts.;  and  Industrial  Hall,  Broad  and  Wood 
Sts.  Horticultural  HaU.  cor.  Broad  and  Locust  Sts.,  is  the  scene  of  the  annual 
floral  displays  of  the  Horticultural  Society.  . 

Keacling--Kooms.— The  Mercantile  Library,  in  10th  St.  near  Chestnut, 
contains  165,000  volumes  and  a  well-supplied  reading-room  (open  from  9  a.  m. 
to  10  P.  M.).  The  Philadelphia  Library,  in  Locust  St.  east  of  Broad,  155,000  vol- 
umes, is  free  from  10  o'clock  till  sunset;  and  the  "Ridgway  Branch,"  with 
two  reading-rooms,  is  at  the  cor.  of  Broad  and  Christian.  The  Philosophical 
Society  (founded  by  franklin  in  1743)  is  located  in  its  original  building  in  5th 
St.  beiow  Chestnut,  with  a  library  of  60,0CC  volumes.  The  Academy  of  Natural 
Sciences,  in  Logan  Square,  has  a  valuable  collection  of  books  and  specimens 
(admission  froin  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.,  daily).  The  Athenceum.  cor.  Cth  and  Adelphi 
Sts.,  has  a  librar.y  of  25,000  volumes  (introduction  b}'  a  member).  The  Apjjren- 
tices'  Library,  at  the  cor.  of  5th  and  Arch  Sts.,  is  also  open  daily.  The  Young 
Mero's  Christian  Association,  cor.  15th  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  has  a  free  read- 
ing-room (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.).  The  Historical  Society  of  Pennsyl- 
vaMa,  13th  and  Locust  Sts.,  has  a  rich  library  (open  from  10  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.). 
The  Franklin  Institute,  m  7th  St.  above  Chestnut,  has  a  free  library,  rich  in  sci- 
entific and  technical  books,  and  patent  reports,  and  readii]g-room. 

Art  Collections. — At  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  cor.  Broad  and  Cherry 
Sts.,  is  one  of  the  best  collections  of  paintiugs,  statuary,  casts,  and  prints  in 
America  (entrance  25c.,  free  on  Sundays  and  Mondays).  Fine  pictures  may 
usually  be  seen  (free)  at  the  sales-galleries  of  Earle,  816  Chestnut  St.,  and  Hasel- 
tine,  1516  Chestnut  St.  Among  the  richest  pri^-at^-  collections  in  the  country  are 
those  of  Henry  C.  Gibson  (1612  Walnut  St.),  ^\.  B.  Bement  (1812  Spring  Garden 
St.),  the  late  James  L.  Claghorn  (on  W.  Logan  Square),  the  late  Joseph  Harri- 
son, Jr.  (in  Rittenhouse  Square),  Artemas  Partridge,  and  A.  E.  Borie.  Admis- 
sion to  these  may  be  obtained  by  application. 

Clubs.— The  Philadelphia  (Walnut  and  13th  Sts.)  is  the  oldest  in  the  city. 
The  Union  League  Club  has  a  handsome  builfdng  cor.  Broad  and  Sansom  Sts. 
The  Manufacturers''  occupies  an  imposing  home  in  Walnut  St.  above  Broad, 
and  the  Columbia,  in  Broad  abcve  Master,  has  one  of  the  finest  houses  in  the 
city.  A  member's  introduction  will  secure  the  visitor  the  privileges  of  the  Club 
for  one  month.  The  Penn  (Sth  and  Locust  Sts.),  the  TJnivei  sity  (1316  Walnut 
St.),  and  the  Catholic  Club,  in  Broad  St.  below  Walnut,  are  literary  and  social. 
The  New  Century  Club  for  women,  occupies  its  own  house  on  j2th  St.,  near 
Walnut.  The  Union  BepubJican,  at  11th  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  and  the  Anieiicus, 
at  Broad  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  are  the  principal  poliiical  associations.  The  ^i^- 
ten'  ouse  Club  occupies  a  fine  marble  building  \\\  Walnut  St.  near  18th.  The 
Philadelphia  Art  Club  is  in  Broad  St.  above  Locust.  The  AtMetic  Club  of  the 
Schuylkill  Navv,  ia  Arch  St.  below  17th,  is  a  massive  structure. 
3 


34 


PHILADELPHIA. 


[Route  Jf- 


Post-Office.— The  general  Post-Office  is  at  the  cor.  of  Chestnut  and  9th 
Sts.,  extending  on  9th  St.  to  Market.  Letters  may  be  mailed  in  the  lamp-post 
boxes  in  all  parts  of  the  cit}'-.  There  are  also  several  sub-stations  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  city.  The  courts  of  the  United  States  are  held  in  the  same 
building. 


Philadelphia,  the  third  largest  city  in  the  United  States,  lies  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Delaware  River,  90  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
Its  latitude  is  39°  5Y'  N.  and  longitude  Y5°  10'  W.  from  Greenwich. 
It  is  22  miles  long  from  N.  to  S.,  with  a  breadth  of  5  to  8  miles,  and 
an  area  of  1,294  square  miles.  The  city,  as  originally  incorporated, 
was  bounded  by  the  rivers  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  and  Yine  and  South 
Sts.,  and  this  area  was  not  enlarged  until  1854,  when  the  corporation 


Route  4.]  PHILADELPHIA.  35 

was  extended  over  the  the  entire  county.  Within  its  present  area  there 
are  over  1,000  miles  of  paved  streets.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  the 
streets  running  X.  and  S.  being  numbered  in  succession  from  the  Dela- 
Avare  to  the  Schuylkill,  which  is  reached  at  23d  St.,  the  first  street  on  the 
"W.  side  of  that  river  being  30th.  These  are  crossed  at  right  angles  by 
named  streets.  A  few  irregular  avenues,  formerly  country-roads,  stretch 
away  from  the  original  town-plot.  The  houses  on  the  streets  running  E. 
and  W.  are  numbered  toward  the  W.,  all  between  1st  and  2d  streets  be- 
ing between  100  and  200,  and  all  between  2d  and  3d  streets  between  200 
and  300,  and  so  on ;  so  that  the  number  of  the  house  indicates  the  num- 
ber of  the  street  us  well.  Hence,  if  the  number  of  the  house  be  836,  it 
is  between  8th  St.  and  9th  St.  In  like  manner,  the  streets  running  N. 
and  S.  are  allowed  100  numbers  for  every  square  they  are  distant  from 
Market  St.,  either  X.  or  S.  Thus,  whenever  one  can  see  a  number,  he  can 
calculate  his  exact  distance  from  Market  St.  or  the  Delaware.  The  great 
business  thoroughfare  is  Market  St.;  it  runs  E.  and  W.,  is  100  ft.  wide, 
and  contains  the  principal  wholesale  stores.  Broad  St.,  the  dividing 
street  running  X.  and  S.,  is  113  ft.  wide,  and  is  lined  Avith  churches 
and  elegant  private  residences.  Chesfmit  St.,  parallel  with  Market  on 
the  S.,  is  the  fashionable  promenade,  containing  the  finest  hotels 
and  retail  stores.  Walnut,  Spruce,  and  Pine,  farther  S.,  and  Arch, 
Race,  and  Yine,  X.  of  Market,  west  of  Broad,  are  leading  streets. 
Third  St.,  between  Market  and  Walnut,  Walnut  St.  from  2d  to  Yth, 
and  Chestnut  St.  from  2d  to  Broad,  are  now  the  banking  and  financial 
centers.  The  principal  drives  are  through  Fairmount  Park,  out  Broad 
St.  toward  Germantown,  down  Broad  to  Point  Breeze  Park,  and  Wood- 
land Ave.  to  Suffolk  Park. 

Philadelphia  was  founded  by  William  Penn,  who  came  over  from  England  m 
1682,  accompanied  by  a  colony  of  Quakers,  and  purchased  the  site  from  the  In- 
dians. The  emigration  thither  was  very  rapid,  and  in  1684  the  population  was 
estimated  at  2.500.  Pemi  presented  the  city  with  a  charter  in  1701.  It  pros- 
pered greatly,  and  was  the  most  important  city  in  the  country  during  the  colo- 
nial period  and  for  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century  after  the  Revolution.  The 
first  Continental  Congress  assembled  here  (in  1774),  as  did  also  the  subsequent 
Congresses  dm-ing  the  war.  The  Declaration  of  Independence  was  made  and 
issued  here,  July  4,  1776.  The  convention  which  formed  the  Constitution  of 
the  Republic  assembled  here  in  May,  1787.  Here  resided  the  first  President  of 
the  L'nited  States,  and  here  Congress  continued  to  meet  until  1797.  Until  1799 
it  was  the  capital  of  the  colony  and  State  of  Pennsylvania,  and  from  1790  to 
1800  was  the  seat  of  the  governrnent  of  the  L'nited  Sta'tes.  The  city  was  in  pos- 
session of  the  British  from  September,  1777,  to  June,  1778,  a  result  of  the  un- 
fortunate battles  of  Brandywine  and  Germantown.  Since  the  Revolution  the 
city  has  grown  steadilv  and  rapidlv.  The  population,  which  in  1800  was  67.811. 
had  increased  to  1.32,376  in  1820,  to  .505,529  in  1860.  to  846.984  in  1880.  and  to 
1,046,964  in  1890.  The  commerce  of  Philadelphia  is  large  and  increasing,  but 
manufactures  are  its  chief  source  of  wealth.  In  heavy  manufactures  Philadel- 
phia is  only  approached  by  Pittsburg.  The  leading  industries  are  the  manu- 
facture of  locomotives  and  all  kinds  of  iron-ware,  ships,  carpets,  woolen  and 
cotton  goods,  shoes,  umbrellas,  and  books. 

Chestnut  St.  begins  at  the  Delaware  River  and  runs  W.  to  the 
city  limits,  crossing  the  Schuylkill  at  24th  St.  by  a  bridge  1,528  ft.  long, 
at  the  E.  end  of  which  is  the  depot  of  the  Baltimore  ct  Ohio  R.  R. 
In  2d  St.  X.  of  Chestnut  is  the   Commercial  Exchange,  a  large  brown- 


36  PHILADELPHIA.  [Boute  ^. 

stone  building  standing  on  the  site  of  the  old  "  Slate-roof  House,"  onge 
the  residence  of  William  Penn,  and  later  the  home  of  John  Adams, 
John  Hancock,  Baron  De  Kalb,  and  Benedict  Arnold.  Opposite  are 
the  massive  buildings  used  as  U.  S.  Appraisers'  Stores,  extending  west- 
ward to  Dock  St.  At  the  corner  of  Walnut  and  2d  Sts.  is  the  Coal  Ex- 
change. In  2d  St.  near  Market  St.  is  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  one 
of  the  most  venerable  of  the  antiquarian  relics  of  the  city,  begun  in 
1695,  and  still  a  fine  building.  Its  steeple  is  196  ft.  high,  and  contains 
the  oldest  (1'754)  bells  in  America.  At  the  cor.  of  Market  and  Front  Sts. 
is  a  small  brick  house,  now  used  as  a  tobacco-shop  ;  it  was  built  in  1*702, 
and  a  hundred  years  ago  was  the  famous  London  Coffee-House^  fre- 
quented by  the  magnates  of  the  city.  A  few  steps  from  this  (in  Leti- 
tia  St.,  S.  of  Market)  was  Penn's  Cottcge^  the  first  brick  building  erected 
in  Philadelphia.     It  has  been  removed  to  Fairmount  Park. 

At  the  corner  of  3d  and  Walnut  Sts.  is  the  *  Merchants'  Ex- 
change, a  fine  marble  building,  with  an  ornamented  front  on  Dock 
St.,  a  semicircular  colonnade  of  8  pillars,  and  a  spacious  rotunda  within 
on  that  side.  The  reading-i'oom  in  the  rotunda  of  the  second  story  is 
handsomely  frescoed.  Opposite,  in  Walnut  St.,  is  the  fine  building  of 
the  North  American  Lisurance  Co.  Near  by  is  the  Girard  National 
Bcmk^  a  stately  edifice  with  handsome  portico,  originally  built  for  the 
first  United  States  Bank,  and  occupied  by  Stephen  Girard  until  his 
death.  It  was  copied  from  the  Dublin  Exchange.  To  the  S.  (cor.  3d 
and  Pine  Sts.)  is  the  church  of  St.  Peter^s  (Episcopal),  begun  in  1758 
and  finished  in  1761.  On  the  S.  E.  corner  of  Walnut  and  4th  Sts.  is 
the  Manhattan  Life  Lnsnrance  Co.  of  New  York,  with  a  front  of  50  ft. 
on  W^alnut  and  101  ft.  on  4th  St.  In  4th  St.  above  W^alnut  is  the  Ln- 
snrance Co.  of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania.  Midway  between  4th  and  5th 
Sts.,  on  the  S.  side  of  Walnut,  towers  the  building  of  the  Commercial 
Union  Assurance  Co.  of  London.  On  the  E.  side  of  4th  St.  below  Wal- 
nut are  the  main  office  buildings  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  and 
Pennsylvania  Railroad  Companies. 

Above  3d  St.,  in  Chestnut,  are  the  brown-stone  Bank  of  North  Amer- 
ica, and  the  costly  buildings  of  the  Fidelity  Safe  Deposit  Co.,  the  First 
National  Bank,  the  National  Bank  of  the  Republic,  and  the  Guarantee 
Trust  and  Safe  Deposit  Co.  On  the  S.  side  of  Chestnut  St.  between  3d 
and  4th  a  narrow  court  leads  to  Carpenters'  Mall,  where  assembled 
(in  1*7 74)  the  first  Congress  of  the  United  Colonies.  It  is  a  plain  two- 
story  brick  building,  carefully  preserved.  On  the  S.  E.  corner  of  4th 
and  Chestnut  is  the  Banking  House  of  the  Brown  Brothers.  On 
the  N.  W.  corner  is  the  massive  addition  to  the  Provident  Lfe  and 
Trust  Co.,  and  on  the  S.  W.  corner  the  Wood  Building,  adjoining  which 
is  the  Western  Bank,  beside  the  *  U.  S.  Custom-House,  with  im- 
posing fronts  on  Chestnut  and  Library  Sts.,  originally  the  United  States 
Bank.  Just  above,  on  the  opposite  side,  is  a  fine  series  of  commercial 
buildings,  including  the  Provident  Life  and  Trust  Co.  (granite),  on  the 
corner,  the  Philadelphia  Trust  Co.,  the  Farmers  and  Mechanics''  Bank, 
the  Philadelphia  Bank  (granite),  the  Pennsylvania  Life  Lns.  Co.,  and  the 
Girard  Building.     On  the  S.  side  is  the  Lndependence  National  Bank, 


independence  Hall,  Philadelphia, 


Route  4.]  PHILADELPHIA.  37 

and  on  either  side  of  it,  towering  above  it,  is  the  10-storied  Brexel 
Building^  within  which  is  the  Stoclc  Exchange^  the  Board  of  Trade^ 
many  offices,  and  on  the  cor.  of  5th  St.,  the  bank  of  Drexel  and  Co. 
Between  5th  and  6th  Sts.  standg  *  Independence  Hall,  the  most 
interesting  object  in  Philadelphia.  It  was  begun  in  1Y29  and  com- 
pleted in  1735,  at  a  cost  of  £5,600.  In  the  E.  room  (Independence  Hall 
proper)  the  Continental  Congress  met,  and  here  on  July  4,  1776,  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  was  adopted,  and  publicly  proclaimed  from 
the  steps  on  the  same  day.  The  room  presents  the  same  appearance 
now  as  it  did  at  that  time ;  the  furniture  is  that  used  by  Congress  ; 
there  are  a  statue  of  \¥ashington  and  numei'ous  portraits  and  pictures, 
including  Benjamin  West's  "Penn's  Treaty  with  the  Indians."  The 
W.  room  is  a  depository  of  many  curious  Revolutionary  relics.  In  it  is 
preserved  the  old  "  Liberty  Bell,"  the  first  bell  rung  in  the  United  States 
after  the  passage  of  the  Declaration.  In  Congress  Hall,  in  the  2d  story, 
Washington  delivered  his  farewell  address.  Visitors  are  admitted  from 
9  A.  M.  to  4  p.  M.  daily.  The  wings  and  adjacent  buildings  are  at  present 
occupied  by  the  law  courts,  and  the  mayor's  and  other  municipal  and 
county  offices.  On  the  sidewalk  in  front  of  the  Hall  stands  Bailey's 
statue  of  Washington,  erected  by  pubhc-school  children  ;  and  in  the 
rear  is  Independence  Square,  an  open  space  of  four  acres.  Diag- 
onally opposite  Independence  Square  (on  the  S.  W.)  is  Washington 
Square,  celebrated  for  containing  nearly  every  variety  of  tree  that  will 
grow  in  this  climate.  There  is  a  map  of  the  Square  showing  the  posi- 
tion of  each  tree.  Opposite,  on  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  Walnut  and  Ylh,  is 
the  Philadelpliia  Saving-Fund  Building  (granite),  the  oldest  institution 
of  the  kind  in  the  country.  Fronting  the  Square,  in  6th  St.,  is  the 
Athenceum.,  with  a  library  of  25,000  volumes.  In  5th  St.  near  Chestnut 
is  the  building  of  the  Philosophical  Society,  called  Philosophical 
Hall,  completed  in  1*791.  The  Society  was  founded  in  1'74;3,  through 
the  influence  of  Benjamin  Franklin.  Farther  along  5th  St.  (at  the  S.  E. 
cor.  of  Arch  St.,  in  Christ  Church  cemetery)  is  Franklin'' s  Grave^  which 
may  be  seen  through  iron  railings  in  the  brick  wall  of  the  cemetery. 

At  the  cor.  of  Chestnut  and  6th  Sts.  is  the  "^^  Ledger  Building^  of 
brown-stone,  5  stories  high.  Adjoining  is  the  Land^  Titlc^  and  Trust 
Co.h  building.  The  office  of  the  German  Bemocrat  is  at  614  Chestnut 
St.,  that  of  the  Press  at  YOO  Chestnut  St.,  and  that  of  the  North  Ameri- 
can at  70 1  Chestnut  St.,  while  on  '7th  St.  above  Chestnut  are  located  a 
number  of  other  journals  ;  and  near  by,  also  in  Yth  St.,  is  the  Franklin 
Institute^  provided  with  a  library  (33,000  volumes),  a  reading-room,  and 
free  courses  of  scientific  lectures.  Directly  opposite  is  the  Master 
Builders'  Exchange.  On  Chestnut  St.  above  Vth  is  the  massive  Singerly 
Building  for  the  Union  Trust  Co.  and  the  Chestnut  St.  National  Bank. 
Just  above  '7th  in  Market  St.  is  the  6-story  publishing-house  of  the 
J.  B.  Lippincott  Co.  On  the  S.  W.  corner  of  '7th  and  Market  is  the 
Penn  Rationed  Bank.,  on  the  site  of  the  house  where  Jefferson  wrote 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.  To  the  S.  from  Chestnut,  8th  St. 
leads  past  the  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  standing  in  amj^le  grounds 
shaded  by  venerable  trees,  and  containing  a  medical  library  and  ana- 


38  PHILADELPHIAo  [Route  Jf. 

tomical  museum.  At  13tli  and  Locust  Sts.  is  the  building  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania Historical  Society^  containing  a  large  library,  rich  in  local  and 
family  histories,  and  interesting  histoi-ical  relics  (open  from  10  a.  m.  to 
5  p.  M.).  At  the  corner  of  Chestnut  and  8th  Sts.  is  the  handsome  Times 
Building. 

At  the  cor.  of  9th  St.  is  the  Continental  Hotel.,  and  opposite  is  the 
Girard  House.  At  the  N.  W.  cor.  is  the  *Post-Office9  in  the  Re- 
naissance style,  4  stories  high,  with  an  iron  dome,  and  costing  $4,000,- 
000,  containing  also  the  United  States  Courts  and  Federal  offices.  Ad- 
joining the  post-office,  on  Chestnut  St.,  is  the  imposing  tower  of  the 
Record  office,  8  stories  high,  and  this  in  turn  is  surpassed  by  the  tower 
of  the  Penn  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Building.,  next  to  which  is  the  8- 
story  structure  of  the  City  Trust.,  Safe  Deposit.,  and  Security  Co.  At 
the  N.  W.  cor.  of  10th  St.  is  the  building  of  the  New  York  Ifutual 
Life  Lisurance  Co.  On  the  N.  E.  corner  is  the  office  of  the  Inquirer., 
one  of  the  oldest  daily  journals,  and  on  the  S.  W.  corner  is  the  Assembly 
Buildings.,  on  the  first  floor  of  which  is  the  Western  Union  Telegraph 
Co's  offices.  To  the  right,  in  10th  St.,  is  the  "^Mercantile  Library, 
with  165,000  volumes  and  a  spacious  reading-room  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to 
10  p.  M.).  In  St.  Stephen'' s  Church  (Episcopal),  opposite  the  library,  are 
some  fine  monuments.  In  10th  St.,  S.  of  Chestnut,  is  Jefferson  JJedical 
College.  At  the  corner  of  12th  St.  is  the  elegant  white-marble  jewelry- 
store  of  Bailey  c&  Co.^  and  at  the  corner  of  Chestnut  and  loth  Sts.  is 
the  retail  store  of  John  Wanamaker.  Just  above  is  the  *U.  S.  Mint, 
a  white-marble  building  in  the  Ionic  style,  with  a  graceful  portico.  The 
collection  of  coins  preserved  here  is  the  largest  and  most  valuable  in 
America.  Yisitoi"S  are  admitted  from  9  to  12  o'clock.  Adjoining  the 
Mint  is  the  structure  of  the  Girard  Trust  Co.  Adjacent,  in  Broad  St., 
is  the  ornate  Betz  Builditig,  16  stories  high.  The  ter mined  station  of 
the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.  and  its  branches  is  at  12th  and  Mar- 
ket Sts.  ;  and  the  great  Broad  St.  station  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R. 
and  its  branches  is  at  loth  and  Market  Sts.,  facing  the  Public  Buildings. 

Crossing  Broad  (14th)  St.,  with  its  imposing  hotels  and  churches, 
Chestnut  St.  passes  in  sight  of  the  Public  Buildings  (to  the  right),  and 
the  massive  and  spacious  *  building  of  the  Young  3Ien''s  Christian 
Association  and  the  old  Church  of  the  Hpiphany,  which,  with  the 
'Colonnade  Hotel,  occupy  opposite  corners  of  15th  and  Chestnut  Sts. 
The  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building  is  of  sand-stone  and  marble,  230  by  72  ft., 
4  stories  high,  with  a  tower,  and  containing  a  library,  reading-room, 
etc.  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.).  We  have  now  entered  the  resi- 
dence quarter.  Up  18th  St.,  to  the  right,  is  Logan  Square,  a  pretty 
little  park  of  1  acres,  neatly  laid  out  and  delightfully  shaded.  Fronting 
the  square  on  the  E.  side  is  the  Roman  Catholic  *  Cathedral  of  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul,  the  largest  church  edifice  in  the  city.  It  is  of 
red  sandstone  in  the  Roman-Corinthian  style,  136  by  216  ft.,  with  a 
dome  210  ft.  high.  The  facade  consists  of  a  classic  pediment,  upheld 
by  4  lofty  Corinthian  columns,  flanked  by  pilastered  wings.  The  in- 
terior is  cruciform  and  adorned  with  frescoes ;  the  altar-piece,  by  Bru- 
midi,  is  conspicuous  for  its  fine  coloring.     Also  fronting  on  the  square 


Route  ^.]  PHILADELPHIA.  39 

(at  the  cor.  of  19th  and  Race  Sts.)  is  the  handsome  building  of  the 
*  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  of  serpentine  stone  trimmed  with 
Ohio  sandstone,  in  the  Collegiate  Gothic  style.  Its  library  contains 
30,000  volumes,  and  there  are  extensive  collections  in  zoology,  ornithol- 
ogy, geology,  mineralogy,  conchology,  ethnology,  archaeology,  and  bot- 
any. The  museum  contains  upward  of  250,000  specimens ;  and  Louis 
Agassiz  pronounced  it  one  of  the  finest  natural  science  collections  in 
the  world  (open  daily  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  ;  admission,  lOc).  Facing 
the  squai'e  on  the  S.  is  Wills's  Hospital  for  the  treatment  of  diseases  of 
the  eye ;  and  at  the  cor.  of  Race  and  20th  Sts.  is  the  Instihdion  for  the 
Blind,  who'  are  instructed  in  useful  trades,  in  music,  and  in  the  usual 
branches  taught  in  schools.  Farther  along  20th  (at  the  cor.  of  Spring 
(rarden  St.)  is  a  lying-in  hospital,  the  Preston  Retreat.  To  the  left  (S.) 
from  Chestmit  St.,  ISth  St.  leads  in  one  block  to  the  aristocratic  *  Rit- 
tenhouse  Square,  surrounded  by  costly  private  residences.  In  Wal- 
nut St.,  ^Y.  of  18th,  stands  the  Rittenhouse  Cluh.  At  the  cor.  Chestnut 
and  24th  Sts.  is  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  Station,  from  which  trains 
leave  for  Baltimore  and  the  South  and  West,  and  for  New  York  by  the 
Reading  route.  Above  24th  St.,  Chestnut  St.  crosses  the  Schuylkill  on 
a  massive  iron  bridge  (completed  in  1866),  and  leads  for  a  mile  or  so 
amid  the  beautiful  residences  of  West  Philadelphia.  (Street-cars  trav- 
erse Chestnut  St.  from  Front  to  42d  Sts.,  but  the  points  we  have  de- 
scribed are  not  beyond  the  limits  of  a  morning  or  afternoon  stroll.) 

Broad  St.  is  a  noble  thoroughfare,  113  ft.  wide,  extending  N.  from 
the  Delaware  for  15  miles  through  the  heart  of  the  city.  At  the  foot 
of  Broad  St.  is  League  Island  (600  acres),  on  which  is  the  U.  8. 
Navy-Yard,  and  which  is  being  converted  into  a  naval  depot.  The 
site  was  presented  by  the  city  to  the  U.  S.  Government  in  1862,  and 
the  material  from  the  old  navy-yard  transferred  to  it  in  1875.  For  3 
miles  after  leaving  the  river.  Broad  St.  passes  across  flats  occupied  by 
truck-farms.  The  first  building  requiring  notice  is  St.  Agnes  Hospital,  a 
Roman  Catholic  charity,  at  the  cor.  of  Mifflin  St.,  running  along  to 
McKean  St.  At  the  cor.  Christian  St.,  the  splendid  *Ridgway  Li- 
brary (a  branch  of  the  Philadelphia  Library),  an  elegant  granite  struct- 
ure 220  by  105  ft.,  contains  the  Loganian  Library.  It  was  a  bequest 
of  Dr.  Benjamin  Rush,  and  cost  $1,500,000  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.). 
In  Locust  St.,  E.  of  Broad,  is  the  home  of  the  Philadelphia  Library,  At 
the  cor.  Pine  St.  is  the  long  granite  building  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
Asylum  (tickets  at  Ledger  office);  and  one  square  above  stands  the  su- 
perb Beth-Eden  Baptist  Church.  Just  beyond  is  Hortictdtural 
Hall,  where  are  held  the  annual  floral  displays  of  the  Horticultural  So- 
ciety; and  next  door  is  the  *  Academy  of  Music,  one  of  the  largest 
opera-houses  in  America,  with  seats  for  3,000  persons.  Opposite  Hor- 
ticultural Hall  is  the  Broad  St.  Theatre,  and  just  beyond  is  the  Empire 
Theatre,  w^hile  between  Locust  and  Walnut  Sts.  is  the  handsome  build- 
ing of  the  Philadelphia  A7't  Club  ;  at  the  cor.  Walnut  St.  is  the  St7'at- 
ford  Hotel,  and  opposite  the  Bellevue ;  and  at  the  cor.  Sansom  St.  is 
the  Union  League  Club  {see  p.  33).  Also  at  the  cor.  Sansom  St.  is 
the  lofty  Hotel  Lafayette,  a  short  distance  beyond  which  Broad  St.  is 


40  PHILADELPHIA.  [Boute  J^. 

crossed  by  Chestnut  St.  On  Penn  Square^  at  the  intersection  of  Broad 
and  Market  Sts.,  are  being  erected  the  vast  *  Public  Buildings  (for 
law-courts  and  pubhc  offices),  of  white  marble,  486^  ft.  long  by  4*70 
wide,  4  stories  high,  and  covering  an  area  of  nearly  4^  acres,  not  in- 
cluding a  court-yard  in  the  center  200  ft.  square,  containing  520  rooms. 
The  central  tower  will  be  537^  ft.  high,  and  the  total  cost  of  the  build- 
ing over  $1 5,000,000.  At  the  cor.  of  Filbert  St.,  the  *  Masonic  Tem- 
ple lifts  its  front,  250  ft.  long  by  150  wide,  with  a  tower  230  ft.  high. 
At  the  intersection  of  Broad  and  Arch  Sts.  is  a  cluster  of  fine  churches : 
*  Arch  St.  Methodist^  of  white  marble;  the  *  Holy  Communion  (Luther- 
an), of  green  serpentine,  in  the  Gothic  style ;  and  the  First  Baptiiit^  of 
brown-stone.  Beyoni,  at  the  cor.  of  Cherry  St.,  is  the  *  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts,  in  the  Byzantine  style,  260  by  100  ft.,  and  containing  an 
excellent  collection  of  pictures,  etc.  (entrance,  25c. ;  free  on  Sunday 
afternoon  and  Mondays),  and  diagonally  opposite  is  a  circular  building 
(cyclorama)  for  the  exhibition  of  panoramas,  etc.  On  the  E.  side,  be- 
low Race,  is  the  Armory  of  the  State  Feneihles^  and  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  street,  above  Race,  is  the  Hahnemann  Medical  College.  On  the 
E.  side,  on  the  cor.  of  Vine  St.,  is  the  Catholic  Boys'  High-School.  At  the 
cor.  of  Callowhill  St.  stands  the  armory  of  the  First  Regiment  of  State 
militia.  At  the  opposite  corner  is  the  old  depot  of  the  Reading:  R.  R., 
and  just  above  are  the  Bcddumi  Locomotive-Works.  N.  of  the  Baldwin 
Works,  Broad  is  crossed  by  '^  Spring- Garden  St.,  leading  toward  Fair- 
mount  Park,  on  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  which  and  Broad  St.  is  the  Spring- 
Garden  Institute  and  School  of  Design  for  Young  Men  and  Boys.  At 
the  cor.  of  I'Zth  St.  is  the  GirW  Norm.al  School.  At  the  cor.  of  Broad  and 
Green  Sts.  is  a  Presbyterian  church,  beside  which  stands  the  *  Syna- 
gogue Rodef  Shalom,  and  near  by  the  Central  High-School;  the 
Widener  mansion,  on  the  cor.  of  Broad  St.  and  Girard  Ave.,  and  that  of 
W.  L.  Elkins,  nearly  opposite,  are  among  the  finest  residences  in  the 
country ;  and  at  the  cor.  of  Master  St.  is  the  School  of  Design  for  Women.^ 
in  the  house  once  occupied  by  Edwin  Forrest,  the  actor.  Broad  St.  now 
traverses  for  about  two  miles  a  residence  quarter,  with  a  number  of  fine 
churches,  forming  a  popular  promenade  (with  the  Monument  Cemetery)., 
and  then  i-uns  N.  to  Germantown  (22d  Ward,  6  miles  from  Chestnut 
St.),  a  pretty  suburb,  with  fine  villas  and  churches,  inhabited  chiefly  by 
the  business  men  of  Philadelphia.  Here  was  fought  the  battle  of  Ger- 
mantown  (Oct.  4,  1777),  in  which  Washington  was  defeated  by  Lord 
Howe.  (Germantown  may  be  reached  from  Philadelphia  by  railroad 
from  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  depot,  Broad  St. ;  or  from  Reading  depot  at 
12th  and  Market  Sts. ;  or  by  horse-cars  from  8th  and  Dauphin  Sts.,  4th 
and  8  th  St,  line). 

Other  places  of  interest  are  as  follows :  *  Girard  College  (2 
miles  N.  W.  of  the  State-House  by  Ridge  Ave.  cars)  was  founded  by 
Stephen  Girard,  a  native  of  France,  wiio  died  in  Philadelphia  in  1831, 
leaving  an  immense  fortune.  He  bequeathed  $2,000,000  to  erect  suita- 
ble buildings  "  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  and  support  of  destitute 
orphans,"  and  the  institution  is  supported  by  the  income  of  the  residue 
of  the  estate  after  the  payment  of  certain  legacies.     The  estate  now  is 


Route  4.]  PHILADELPHIA.  41 

estimated  at  about  $15,000,000.  The  site  of  the  college  grounds  com- 
prises 42  acres.  The  college  building  is  a  noble  marble  structure  of 
the  Corinthian  order,  218  ft.  long,  160  wide,  and  97  high.  The  roof 
commands  a  wide  *  view  over  the  city.  In  the  building  are  interesting 
relics  of  Girard,  and  in  the  grounds  is  a  monument  to  the  graduates  of 
the  college  who  fell  in  the  civil  war.  (Permits  to  visit  the  college  may 
be  obtained  at  the  principal  hotels,  of  the  Secretary,  or  of  the  Direc- 
tors ;  clergymen  are  not  admitted.)  The  German  Hospital  and  the  Mary 
J.  Drexel  Home  are  opposite  its  main  entrance;  and  within  one  block, 
in  the  opposite  direction,  are  the  Woman's  Medical  College  and  Woman's 
Hospital.  At  Chestnut  and  32d  St.,  in  West  Philadelphia,  is  the  beau- 
tiful building  of  the  *  Drexel  Institute,  constructed  of  light  buff  brick 
with  terra-cotta  ornamentations.  It  has  a  library,  museum  of  art  and 
technical  products,  class-rooms,  laboratories,  and  a  large  auditorium 
(seating  1,,500),  where  organ-recitals  and  other  entertainments  are  held 
at  times.  The  ^University  of  Pennsylvania  occupies  a  group  of 
stone  buildings  on  Woodland  Ave.,  bet.  34th  and  36th  Sts.  (reached  by 
Spruce  St.  cars  via  Market  and  Walnut  Sts.).  It  has  a  library  of  85,000 
volumes,  a  fine  museum  and  cabinets,  and  a  hospital  and  medical  college. 
Near  by  (on  34th  St.)  is  the  Blockley  Hospital  and  Almshouse^  with  four 
buildings  500  ft.  long,  and  grounds  of  187  acres  (tickets  of  admission  at 
42  N.  7th  St.).  The  *  Pennsylvania  Hospital  for  the  Insane 
(42d  to  50th  Sts.),  Haverford  Road,  W.  Philadelphia  (take  traction  cars 
in  Market  St.  to  41st  St. ;  tickets  at  Ledger  office),  is  worth  a  visit  to 
see  Benjamin  West's  picture  of  "  Christ  Healing  the  Sick."  (Admit- 
tance every  day  except  Saturday  and  Sunday.)  The  Presbyterian  Hos- 
pital is  at  Powelton  Ave.  and  39tli  St.,  opposite  which  is  the  Old  Manh 
Home,  the  grounds  of  which  occupy  nearly  an  entire  square.  The 
'^  EpAscopal  Hospital  is  at  2649  X.  Front  St.  The  *1J.  S.  Naval  Asy- 
lum (in  Gray's  Ferry  Road,  below  Washington  Ave. ;  take  Spruce  and 
Pine  St.  cars)  is  an  immense  building,  standing  in  highly-cultivated 
grounds.  The  portico,  Avith  8  columns,  the  trophy  cannon,  and  the 
official  residences,  are  worthy  of  notice.  There  are  two  U.  S.  Arsenals, 
one  a  short  distance  S.  E.  of  the  Naval  Asylum,  and  the  other  at  Brides- 
burg,  near  Frankford  (reached  by  steam-cars  from  the  Broad  St.  or  Ken- 
sington stations,  or  by  the  red  cars  of  the  2d  and  3d  St.  line).  The 
former  is  devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  clothing  for  the  army ;  the 
latter  to  the  manufacture  of  fixed  ammunition.  The  *  Eastern  Peni- 
tentiary, in  Fairmount  Ave.  above  21st  St.,  covers  about  10  acres  of 
ground,  and  in  architecture  resembles  a  baronial  castle.  The  separate 
{not  solitary)  system  is  adopted  here,  and  furnished  Charles  Dickens 
with  a  pathetic  passage  in  his  "  American  Xotes."  Each  prisoner  is 
furnished  with  work,  and  is  allowed  to  see  and  converse  with  the  offi- 
cials, but  not  with  any  of  his  fellow-prisoners.  (Tickets  of  admission 
are  obtained  at  the  Ledger  office.)  The  Moyamensing  Priso7i,  10th  St. 
and  Passyunk  Road,  is  a  vast  granite  building,  holding  900  prisoners, 
appropriated  to  persons  awaiting  trial  or  sentenced  for  short  periods. 

*  Fairmount  Park,  the  largest  city  park  in  the  world,  extends  along 
both  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  River  for  more  than  7  miles,  and  along 


42  PHILADELPHIA.  YRoute  Jf. 

both  banks  of  Wissahickon  Creek  for  more  than  6  miles,  commencing 
at  Fairmount,  an  elevation  on  the  Schuylkill  from  which  the  Park  de- 
rives its  name,  and  extending  to  Chestnut  Hill  on  the  Wissahickon,  a 
distance  of  nearly  14  miles,  embracing  an  area  of  over  3,000  acres. 
The  total  length  of  driveways  is  32|-  miles.  It  possesses  much  natural 
beauty,  being  well  wooded  and  having  a  great  variety  of  surface ;  but 
art,  other  than  that  of  landscape-gardening,  has  as  yet  done  little  for  it. 
The  main  entrances  are  at  25th  and  Green  Sts.  and  by  the  Girard  Ave. 
bridge,  and  are  reached  by  horse-cars  from  all  parts.  Just  inside,  on 
the  right,  is  Fairmount  Hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  are  4  reservoirs  of 
the  Schuylkill  Water- Works,  covering  6  acres,  and  surrounded  by  a 
graveled  walk.  The  East  Park  Reservoir  is  reached  by  Ridge  Ave.  cars. 
The  buildings  containing  the  water- works  machinery  lie  just  in  front  of 
the  visitor  as  he  enters  the  Park ;  and  in  the  grounds  adjoining  them  are 
several  fountains  and  statues.  Beyond  the  buildings  is  an  open  plaza, 
surrounded  by  flower-beds  and  shrubbery,  and  containing  Randolph 
Rogers's  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln ;  and  beyond  this 
still  is  *  Lemon  HUl,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  the  mansion  (now  used 
as  a  restaurant)  in  which  Robert  Morris  lived  during  the  Revolutionary 
War.  The  principal  points  of  interest  in  the  Park,  besides  those  we 
have  mentioned,  are  Sedgeley  Hill^  above  Lemon  Hill,  on  the  carriage- 
road;  the  Solitude,  a,  Vi^A  built  in  1Y85  by  John  Penn,  grandson  of 
William  Penn ;  the  *  Zoological  Gardens,  containing  a  line  collection, 
reached  most  easily  by  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  Broad  St.  station  (admission: 
adults,  25c.;  children,  10c.) ;  George''s  Hill  and  the  Belmont  3Iansion, 
from  both  of  which  there  are  noble  views ;  Belmont  Glen,  a  picturesque 
ravine  ;  the  various  bindges  across  the  Schuylkill  River  ;  and  the  roman- 
tic drive  up  the  Wissahickon.  The  grounds  on  which  the  Centennial  Ex- 
hibition of  18Y6  was  held  are  located  in  the  Park,  commencing  on  the  N. 
side  of  Elm  Ave.,  between  41st  and  52d  Sts.,  and  extended  to  a  line 
with  George's  Hill,  and  may  be  reached  by  several  lines  of  street-cars. 
Many  of  the  buildings  which  then  crowded  the  space  have  been  removed  ; 
but  enough  are  still  standing  to  make  the  spot  worth  a  visit.  Several  of 
them,  indeed,  were  planned  for  permanent  use,  and  are  well  fitted  to  add 
to  the  attractions  of  the  Park,  being  large  and  of  striking  design.  *  Me- 
morial Hall,  erected  by  the  State  and  city  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000,  stands 
on  an  elevated  terrace  just  N.  of  Elm  Ave.,  and  is  a  splendid  stone  edifice 
365  ft.  long,  210  wide,  and  150  high.  It  was  built  for  the  Exhibition 
art-gallery,  and  now  contains  a  permanent  art  and  industrial  collection 
similar  to  the  famous  South  Kensington  Museum  in  London.  Just  N. 
of  Memorial  Hall  stands  the  "^Horticultural  Building,  a  charming 
structure  in  the  Moresque  style,  with  polychromatic  frescoes  and  ara- 
besques. It  is  a  conservatory,  filled  with  tropical  and  other  plants,  and 
ai'ound  it  are  35  acres  of  ground  devoted  to  horticultural  purposes. 

*Iiaurel  Hill  adjoins  the  upper  part  of  East  Fairmount  Park, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cemeteries  in  the  country.  It  embraces 
nearly  200  acres,  and  is  divided  into  North,  South,  and  Central  Laurel 
Hill.  Many  fine  monuments  adorn  it ;  but  the  distinctive  feature  of 
the  cemetery  is  its  unique  garden  landscape,  and  the  profusion  of  beau- 


Route  4]  PHILADELPHIA.  43 

tiful  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers.  (Admission  every  day  except  Sunday 
from  9  o'clock  till  sunset.)  Mount  Vernon  Cemetery  is  nearly  opposite 
Laurel  Hill ;  Glenwood  is  prettily  situated  near  by  (reached  by  Ridge 
Ave.  cars) ;  and  *  Woodland  Cemetery  is  in  West  Philadelphia  (i^eached 
by  Spruce  St.  cars).  The  latter  contains  the  Drexel  Mausoleum,  the  cost- 
liest in  America. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions  has  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the 
visitor  can  readily  spend  more  time  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  attention. 

1.  Visit  the  City  Hall,  from  the  tower  of  which  an  extended  view  of 
the  city  may  be  had ;  walk  to  Broad  and  Arch  Sts.,  and  take  cars  out 
Arch  to  19th  St.  One  block  N.  is  Logan  Square;  see  the  Academy  of 
Natural  Sciences  and  the  Cathedral,  both  on  the  square ;  next  take  car 
going  N.  to  Fairmount  Ave. ;  walk  to  Corinthian  Ave.,  and  see  the 
*  Eastern  Penitentiary.  A  few  squares  N.  on  Corinthian  Ave.  are  the 
German  Hospital  and  Girard  College.^  Take  Girard  Ave.  car  W.,  cross- 
ing the  Schuylkill  on  the  wide  bridge,  and  visit  the  Zoological  Gardens 
(getting  there,  if  possible,  before  feeding-time,  3.30  p.  m.)  ;  visit  Perm's 
house  in  the  Park  across  Girard  Ave.,  and  then  take  the  train  at  Zo- 
ological Station  on  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  for  Broad  St.  Station. 

2.  Starting  from  Broad  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  notice  the  Betz  and  Girard 
Trust  Buildings  in  Broad  St. ;  visit  the  U.  S.  Mint  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to 
12  M.,  free) ;  see  Wanamaker's  Bazaar,  and  walk  down  Chestnut  St., 
passing  the  various  tru^t,  safe-deposit,  insux'ance,  and  newspaper 
buildings,  and  the  U.  S.  Post-Office ;  visit  Independence  Hall,  with  its 
collections  ;  back  of  this  is  Independence  Square,  and  across  Walnut  St.  is 
Washington  Square ;  visit  the  JDrexel  Building  (from  the  roof  of  which 
there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Delaware  River),  and  note  the  many  imposing 
buildings  in  the  neighborhood  of  4th,  Chestnut,  and  Walnut  Sts. ;  visit 
Carpenter's  Hall  and  the  old  Christ  Church,  and  then  take  car  S.  on  2d 
St.  to  Christian;  visit  old  Swedes  Church  in  Swanson  St.,  and  the 
sugar-refineries,  returning  along  the  river  front  to  Walnut  and  take  car 
W.  to  Broad  St. 

3.  Starting  from  City  Hall  northward  in  Broad  St.,  visit  the  Masonic 
Temple,  and  then  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  (Broad  and  Cherry  Sts.), 
and  then  the  Cyclorama  of  the  Battle  of  Gettysburg  on  the  opposite 
corner.  Continuing  northward,  fine  buildings  are  passed,  and  at  Broad 
and  CaliOwhill  Sts.  the  extended  plant  of  the  Baldwin  Locomotive 
Works  should  be  visited.  On  the  opposite  corner  is  the  Spring  Garden 
Institute  of  Mechanic  Ai*ts,  and  in  Spring  Garden  St.,  just  off  from 
Broad,  the  Textile  School  of  the  Pennsylvania  School  of  Industrial 
Art.  Take  omnibus  and  ride  out  Broad  St.  to  terminus  of  line,  passing 
many  fine  residences  and  churches.  Return  by  same  route,  or  go  a  few 
blocks  farther  and  take  train  at  Germantown  Junction  for  Broad  St. 
Station. 

1  Tickets  to  be  had  at  the  Ledger  Office,  6th  and  Chestnut  Sts. 


4:4:  CAPE   MAY.  [Route  4. 

4.  Take  car  at  cor.  Broad  and  Arcti  Sts.  going  westward,  and  get 
out  at  Park  entrance  (eastern  end  of  Spring  Garden  St.  bridge) :  visit 
the  Fairmount  Water  Works,  and  the  Lincoln  Monument  in  the  Park ; 
take  Schuylkill  boat  at  the  landing  for  Wissahickon ;  then  follow  stream 
by  path  for  a  time  (or  take  carriage  for  Wissahickon  drive),  and  re- 
turning cross  by  boat  to  Belmont  Landing ;  return  on  foot  through  the 
West  Park,  visiting  Horticultural  and  Memorial  Halls,  Sunken  Gardens 
and  George's  Hill,  taking  train  at  52d  St.,  or  Park  stations  of  the 
Pennsylvania  R.  R.  for  Broad  St.  Station. 

5.  Take  Woodland  Ave.  (or  Spruce  St.)  car  in  front  of  Broad  St. 
Station  to  cor.  of  34th  St.  and  Woodland  Ave. ;  visit  the  University  of 
Pennsylvania  buildings,  especially  the  J^gyptian  and  Archaeological 
collections  in  the  Library  Building  ;  walk  back  three  blocks  to  the  Drexel 
Institute  to  see  its  library  and  museum  ;  take  green  car  passing  the  front 
of  the  building  going  westward,  passing  several  fine  churches  and 
numerous  residences ;  walk  from  car  terminus  to  44th  and  Chestnut ; 
see  Reformed  Episcopal  Church  and  Seminary ;  then,  after  passing  fine 
residences  on  42d  St.,  take  car  for  city  at  41st  and  Spruce  Sts. ;  take 
Broad  St.  omnibus  going  S.  to  Ridgway  Library,  seeing  thus  the  LTnion 
League  Club-house,  Academy  of  Music,  and  other  fine  buildings  on 
South  Broad  St. ;  return  by  same  route. 

6.  Take  train  at  Broad  St.  Station  for  Wissahickon  Heights ;  visit 
Wissahickon  Inn  and  St.  Martin's-in-the-Fields ;  take  train  back  as  far 
as  Tulpehocken  Station  and  walk  up  Walnut  Lane  to  Main  St. ;  visit  the 
old  Chew  Mansion  (scene  of  the  battle  of  Germantown  in  Revolutionary 
times)  and  the  beautiful  residences  of  Germantown,  taking  train  for 
the  city  at  Walnut  Lane  Station  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R. ; 
walk  S.  from  9th  and  Green  Station  to  intersection  of  Ridge  Ave. ;  take 
car  on  Ridge  Ave.  westward,  and  continue  to  Diamond  St. ;  enter  East 
Park,  and  walk  by  Reservoir  and  down  to  the  River  Drive,  passing  the 
Dairy;  follow  the  River  Drive  around  past  the  boat-houses,  and  see 
Lemon  Hill ;  ascend  the  Lemon  Hill  Observatory ;  take  car  for  city  at 
Spring  Garden  St.  entrance  to  the  Park. 

'7.  A  ride  along  the  Delaware  River  front,  going  from  foot  of  Chest- 
nut St.  to  Port  Richmond  coal-wharves,  and  Cramp's  Ship-yards  on  the 
N.  to  Greenwich,  and  the  Girard  Point  elevators  on  the  S.,  passing 
Spreckel's  Sugar  Refinery,  and  the  works  of  the  Pennsylvania  Salt  Co. 

Cape  May. 

From  Philadelphia  Cape  May  is  reached  via  West  Jersey  R.  R.  (ferry  from 
foot  of  Market  St.),  in  2i  hrs. ;  fare,  $2.50  (distance,  81  miles).  The  road  trav- 
erses an  uninteresting  and  thinly-populated  section  of  New  Jersey,  the  only  im- 
portant station  being  Vineland  (34  miles).  There  are  also  daily  steamers  in  sum- 
mer to  and  from  Philadelphia.  From  New  York  via  Pennsylvania  and  West 
Jersey  R.  Rs.  (distance,  172  miles  ;  fare,  |4  2.5)  ;  also  via  New  Jersey  Southern 
Div.  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey  (distance,  141  miles  ;  fare,  $4. .50). 

Hotels.— The  leading  hotels  are  the  Congress  Hall,  Hotel  Lafayette,  Stock- 
ton Hotel,  and  Windso?'  Hotel.  Other  good  houses  are  the  Arctic,  Arlington, 
Chalfonte,  Marine  Villa,  and  the  West  End,  besides  many  smaller  ones.  The 
charges  are  from  $3  to  $4  per  day,  according  to  the  rank  of  hotel.  The  "cot- 
tage system"  is  growmg  in  favor,  and  there  are  hoarding-houses  where  board 
may  be  had  at  $10  to  $18  a  week. 


] 


EouteJ^.]  ATLANTIC   CITY.  45 

Cape  ilay  is  the  extreme  southern  point  of  Xew  Jersey,  fronting 
the  Athmtic  at  the  entrance  of  Delaware  Bay.  Its  beach  is  over  5 
miles  long,  and,  being  hard  and  smooth,  affords  a  splendid  drive,  which 
has  been  artificially  improved.  The  bathing  is  unsurpassed,  the  surf 
being  especially  fine,  and  the  water  (so  it  is  claimed)  less  chilling  than 
elsev^-here  on  the  coast.  The  fashionable  hours  for  bathing  are  from 
II  A.M.  to  1  p.  M.,  and  the  spectacle  is  then  very  brilliant.  Along 
promenade  extends  along  the  water-front,  and  is  generally  thronged  in 
the  forenoon  and  late  afternoon.  Cape  May  was  at  one  time  the  favor- 
ite resort  of  Southern  and  Western  people,  besides  being  the  place  of 
all  places  for  Philadelphians.  The  hotels  and  cottages  are  built  on  a 
small  piece  of  land,  about  250  acres  in  extent,  known  as  Cape  Island, 
having  formerly  been  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  small  creek. 
The  village  contains  6  churches,  2,136  permanent  residents,  and  many 
fine  villas. 

The  most  popular  resorts  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  May  are  Cape  May 
Pointy  SeiceWs  Pointy  and  SclieUinger''s  Landing  ;  they  are  on  the  At- 
lantic, and  are  reached  by  steam  and  horse  cars  from  Cape  May.  Six 
miles  from  Cape  May  are  Holly  Beach^  Wildwood^  and  Anglesea,  where 
there  are  good  boating  and  fishing.  Cold  Spring  is  on  the  line  of  the 
railroad,  about  2  miles  X.  of  the  beach.  The  steamboat-landing  is  on 
Delaware  Bay,  about  2  miles  from  the  village,  and  a  lighthouse,  with 
powerful  revolving  light,  is  down  the  beach  to  the  W.  The  favorite 
drive  is  on  the  beach,  which  may  be  traversed  from  Poverty  Beach  to 
Diamond  Beach,  a  distance  of  10  miles;  but  the  roads  inland  have 
lately  been  much  improved. 

Atlantic  City. 

From  Philadelphia,  Atlantic  City  is  reached  in  75  to  90  minutes  via  Camden 
&  Atlantic  R.  R.  (distance,  59  miles),  and  Atlantic  City  Div.  of  the  Philadel- 
phia &  Reading  R.  R.  (distance,  57  miles).  J'rom  New  York  via  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  to  Camden,  and  thence  via  Camden  &  Atlantic  R.  R.  in  3i  hom's  (dis- 
tance. 146  miles  ;  fare,  $3.25);  also  via  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey  to  Winslow, 
and  thence  via  Camden  &  Atlantic  (distance,  126  miles  ;  fare,  ^3.30). 

Hotels. — The  principal  are  the  Albion,  Brighton,  Chalfonte,  Colonnade, 
Congress  HaV,  Dennis.  Haddon  Hall,  Hoffman,  Irvington,  Mansion,  Normandie, 
SSta-side,  Shethurne,  Traymore,  Windsor,  and  United  States.  The  charges  at 
the  above-mentioned  hotels  vary,  according  to  the  excellence  of  accommoda- 
tions, from  $3  a  day  upward. 

Atlantic  City  is  now  the  favorite  resoi-t  of  the  citizens  of  Philadel- 
phia, but  during  the  season  it  draws  thousands  of  visitors  from  all 
parts  of  the  country.  The  hotels  and  larger  cottages  are  located  on 
an  island.  Just  off  the  mainland,  and  the  beach  is  one  of  the  best  and 
safest  on  the  coast.  The  regular  bathing-hour  is  11  o'clock  a.  m.  The 
city  proper  contains  some  13,055  inhabitants,  and  is  laid  out  in  broad 
and  pleasant  avenues.  The  island  on  which  the  city  is  built  is  cut  oft' 
from  the  mainland  by  a  series  of  wide-stretching  salt-marshes,  which 
are  said  to  conti'iliute  materially  to  the  superior  healthfulness  of  this 
favorite  resort.  Boating  and  fishing  in  the  vicinity  are  excellent,  and 
game  can  generally  be  found  by  the  persistent  sportsman.  The  Atlan- 
tic City  Div.  of  the  Philadelphia  and  Reading  R.  R.  and  the  Southern 


46  PHILADELPHIA    TO    BALTIMOKE.  [Route  5. 

Div.  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of  Xew  Jersey  (counectiug  with  the  Camden 
&  Atlantic)  place  Atlantic  City  in  easy  connection  with  the  famous 
hunting-grounds  of  Barnegat^  -Waretown^  West  Creek ^  and  TucTcerton. 
A  short  distance  N.  of  Atlantic  City  is  the  beautiful  but  ill-omened 
JBrigantme  Beach,  called  by  the  sailors  "  the  graveyard,"  on  account  of 
the  number  of  fatal  wrecks  that  have  occurred  there.  Also  near  by 
is  the  famous  Long  Beach,  favorite  of  fishermen  and  hunters. 

5.  Fhiladeiphia  to  Baltimore. 

Via  Philadelphia,  Wilmington  &  Baltimore  E.  R.  (Broad  St.  Station).  Dis- 
tance. 96  miles  ;  time,  2  hrs. ;  fare,  $2.80.  Also  via  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R. 
(station,  24th  and  Chestnut  Sts.).  Distance,  96  miles  ;  time,  2  hrs.  Fare,  $2.80. 
The  through-trains  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  system,  from  New  York  to  Bal- 
timore (Union  Station),  make  the  entire  distance  (188  miles)  in  about  4  hrs.; 
fare,  $5.30.  Through-trains  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  from  New  York 
from  station  of  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey  (Liberty  St.  ferry),  188  miles  ;  time, 
about  4  hrs.;  fare,  $5.30. 

The  country  traversed  on  this  route  has  few  scenic  attractions, 
though  the  highly-cultivated  farms  and  clustering  towns  indicate  a 
populous  and  long-settled  region.  Chester  (14  miles)  is  the  oldest  town 
in  Pennsylvania,  having  been  settled  by  the  Swedes  in  1 643.  It  now 
has  20,226  inhabitants,  and  is  notable  for  its  extensive  ship-yards. 
The  Brandywine  (crossed  4  miles  beyond  Chester)  is  famous  for  the  bat- 
tle fought  on  its  banks  in  September,  \11^.  Wilmington  {Clo^yton 
House ;  28  miles)  is  the  chief  city  of  the  State  of  Delaware.  It  has 
61,431  inhabitants,  and  its  manufactures  are  very  extensive  and  various, 
embracing  ship-building,  car-manufactories,  cotton  and  woolen  factories, 
flour-mills,  powder-mills,  and  shoe  and  leather  factories.  The  city  is 
regularly  laid  out,  with  streets  at  right  angles,  the  principal  ones  paved 
with  stone,  and  all  lined  with  brick  sidewalks.  The  buildings  are  uni- 
formly of  brick,  of  which  an  excellent  quality  is  made  in  the  vicinity. 
The  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  the  county  Almshouse,  the  Cus- 
tom-House  and  Post-Office  (cor.  King  and  6th  Sts.),  the  Wilmington 
Bistitute  and  Public  Library,  and  the  Opera-House.  There  are  several 
handsotiie  churches,  including  the  Central  and  West  Presbyterian,  the 
Grace  (Methodist),  and  the  Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart  (Roman  Catho- 
lic). The  *  Old  Swedes'  Chnrch,  of  stone,  erected  in  1698,  is  still  in 
good  condition.  There  is  a  restaurant  in  the  depot,  and  the  trains  usu- 
ally stop  from  5  to  10  minutes. 

Xewark  (40  miles)  is  an  academic  town,  seat  of  several  excellent 
educational  institutions,  and  4  miles  beyond  the  train  crosses  the  cele- 
brated Mason  &  Dixonh  Line  (long  the  boundary  between  the  North- 
ern and  Southern  States),  and  enters  Maryland.  At  Havre  de  Grace  (62 
miles),  the  Susquehanna  River  is  crossed  by  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  trains 
on  a  lofty  iron  bridge  nearly  a  mile  long.  In  entering  Baltimore  a  view 
of  the  Patapsco  River  and  Fort  McHenry  may  be  obtained  by  this  route 
from  the  car- window  on  the  left. 


Cotyrij;ht,  iSgi,  iy  ThcJtalthc-ws-.Narlhrtip  Co^,  ConipUU  Eituraviug  &■  Pr 


Route  6.\  BALTBIOEE.  "47 

6.  Baltimore. 

Hotels. — The  Hotel  Bennert  (cor.  Saratoga  and  Liberty  Sts.),  the  St.  James 
(cor.  Charles  and  Centre  Sts.),  Mount  Vernon  (in  Monument  St.,  near  Mount 
Vernon  Pl.^.  the  Altamont  (Eutaw  PI.),  and  the  Allnon  (Cathedral  and  Rich- 
mond Sts.),  are  on  the  European  plan.  The  Carrollton  Hotel  (cor.  German  and 
Light  Sts.),  the  Eutav:  House  (cor.  Baltimore  and  Eutaw  Sts.),  the  Hoivard 
House  (Howard  near  Baltimore  St.),  are  on  the  American  plan.  The  Maltby 
House  (in  W.  Pratt  St.  between  Light  and  S.  Charles  Sts.)  is  conducted  on  both 
the  American  and  European  plans.  The  Brexton  (Park  Ave.),  the  Langham 
(Charles  and  Center  Sts.),  and  the  /S'/tir^e?/ (Madison  St.),  are  family  hotels. 

Kestaurants.— For  ladies  and  gentlemen :  the  Woman\s  Industrial  Ex- 
change, cor.  Charles  and  Pleasant  Sts.;  Sennerfs,  cor.  Saratoga  and  Liberty 
Sts.;  St.  James,  cor.  Charles  and  Centre  Sts.;  and  Painter'' s,  on  Lexington  St., 
near  St.  Charles  St.  For  gentlemen  :  Bennerfs,  cor.  Calvert  and  German  Sts. ; 
Sheehan's,  in  Light  St.,  opposite  the  Carrollton  ;  and  Pepper's,  in  Holliday  St. 

Modes  of  f^oT[rvey2a\ce.— Street-cars,  fare  .5c.,  afford  easy  access  every- 
where. Public  carriages  wait  at  the  depots  and  at  stands  in  various  parts  of 
the  city.  Tariffs  of  fares  are  placed  inside  the  carriages  ;  in  case  of  disagree- 
ment with  the  driver,  apply  to  a  policeman.  One-horse  cahs  and  hansoms  rnii 
to  and  from  depots  and  boats,  25c.  a  passenger,  and  by  the  hour  75c. ;  also, 
street-cars  to  Franklin  and  Powhatan ;  and  street  and  steam  cars  to  Catons- 
ville,  Towson,  Pimlico,  and  Pikesville.  The  Baltimm^e  &  Lehigh  Narroio- 
Gaune  B.  B.  reaches  Long  Green,  Bel-Air,  and  York,  Pa. 

Railroad  Stations.— The  TJnion  Station,  in  Charles  St.,  commonly  called 
the  Charles  St.  Station,  is  used  almost  excl_usi\-ely  for  through  travel  on  the 
Pennsylvania  B.  B.  and  its  branches,  the  Northern  Central  and  the  Philadel- 
phia, Wilmington  &  Baltimore  B.  Bs.  The  Pennsylvania  B.  B.  and  the  West- 
ern Maryland  B.  B.  have  also  inner  stations  at  Calvert  and  Hillen  Sts.,  devoted 
to  local  traffic.  The  Western  Maryland  and  Baltimore  &  Potomac  B.  Bs.  run 
into  the  Charles  St.  station.  The  station  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  B.  B.,  and 
its  Philaddphia  branch,  is  in  Camden  St.,  near  Howard;  of  the  Baltimore  & 
Lehigh  B.  B.,  cor.  North  Ave.  and  the  bridge  over  Jones's  Falls  ;  of  the  Steel- 
ton  and  Catonsville  (steam)  E.  Bs.,  at  Calvert  and  Charles  St.  Stations. 

Theatres  and  Amusements.— The  Lyceum,  in  N.  Charles  St.,  is  the  best 
theatre.  Ford's  Grand  Opiera-House^  in  Fayette  St.  near  Eutaw,  is  much  fre- 
quented. The  Holliday  St.  Theatre,  opposite  the  City  Hall,  is  a  favorite  resort. 
The  Academy  of  Music  (now  Harris's  Academy)  is  devoted  to  cheaper  perform- 
ances. Next  door  to  it  has  been  built  the  Howard  Auditorium  (formerly  Ora- 
torio Hall),  a  popular  play-house,  with  wax-works.  The  Front  St.  Theatre  is 
in  Front  St.  near  Gay.  At  the  Concordia  Opera-House,  cor.  Eutaw  and  Ger- 
man Sts.,  German  opera  and  drama  are  occasionally  given.  Many  lectures  and 
public  gatherings  are  held  in  Levering  Hall  of  the  Johns  Hopkins  LTniversity, 
cor.  Eutaw  and  Little  Eoss^Sts.  Concerts  and  lectures  are  given  at  the  Pea- 
body  Institute  :  Lehman's  Hall,  Howard  St. ;  and  Young  Men's  Christian  Asso- 
ciation. The  race-course  of  the  Maryland  Jockey  Club  is  at  Pimlico,  2  m.  from 
the  N.  W.  boundary  of  the  city,  on  the  Western  Maryland  R.  R. 

Keading-Hooms.— At  the  Peabody  Institute,  cor.  Charles  and  Monument 
Sts.  (free  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.)  ;  the  Mercantile  Library,  in  Charles  near 
Saratoga  Sts.  (open  from  10  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.)  ;  the  Maryland  Institute,  cor. 
Baltimore  and  Harrison  Sts.  ;  the  Bcdiimore  Library  of  the  Maryland  His- 
torical Society,  cor.  Saratoga  and  St.  Paul  Sts.,  with  a  reading-room  for  mem- 
bers and  introduced  visitors;  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  cor. 
Charles  and  Saratoga  Sts.  The  reading-room  of  the  Johns  HopTcins  University 
Library,  Little  Ross  St.,  maybe  visited  by  request  ;  and  the  McCoy  Library, 
bequeathed  to  the  University,  is  in  Lanvale  St.  near  Eutaw  PL  (open  from  2 
p.  M.  to  5  p.  M.  The  Enoch  Pratt  Free  Library,  on  Mulberry  St.  near  Cathe- 
dral, endowed  with  $1,000,000,  is  open  to  the  public  free. 

Art  Collections. — A  Department  of  Art,  in  connection  with  the  Peabody 
Institute,  is  in  process  of  organization.  Good  pictures  are  usually  on  exhibition 
(free)  at  the  sales-galleries  of  Myers  &  Hedian,  46  N.  Charles  St.  The  private 
gallery  of  Mr.  W.  T.  Walters,  Mount  Vernon  Place,  is  one  of  the  richest  in 
America  (open  on  Wednesdays,  February,  March,  and  April;  50  cts.  admission, 
for  the  benefit  of  the  poor. 


48  ■  BALTIMORE.  [Route  6. 

Clubs.— These  include  the  Maryland  Club,  cor.  Charles  and  Eager  Sts., 
which  has  a  superb  marble  building  that  cost  $240,000  ;  the  Baltimore  Club,  in 
Charles,  between  Eead  and  Eager  Sts. ;  the  University  Club,  cor.  Charles  and 
Madison  Sts. ;  and  the  A  thencevm  Chib,  cor.  Charles  and  Franklin  Sts. 

Post-Ofiice.— The  Post-Office,  a  massive  building,  is  on  the  square  bounded 
by  Calvert,  Favette,  North,  and  Lexington  Sts.  Open  from  8  a.m.  to  11  p.  m. 
Sundays,  8.30  to  10  A.  m. 

Baltimore,  the  cliief  city  of  Maryland,  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  N.  branch  of  the  Patapsco  Kiver,  14  miles  from  its  entrance  into 
Chesapeake  Bay,  and  about  200  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The 
harbor  is  capacious,  consisting  of  an  inner  basin  for  small  vessels,  and 
an  outer  harbor  accessible  to  the  largest  ships.  The  entrance  to  the 
harbor  is  defended  by  Fort  McHenry,  which  was  unsuccessfully  bom- 
bai-ded  by  the  British  fleet  in  the  War  of  1812.  Baltimore  St., 
running  E.  and  W.,  is  one  of  the  main  business  thoroughfares,  and  in 
it  and  Lexington,  Howard,  N.  Eutaw,  and  N.  Charles  Sts.,  are  located 
the  principal  retail  stores.  The  principal  wholesale  houses  are  in  Sharp, 
Hanover,  and  Howard  Sts.  North  Charles  St.  is  the  most  attractive 
and  fashionable  promenade ;  Eutaio  Place  is  also  popular.  On  Eutaw 
Place,  150  ft.  wide,  are  many  handsome  dwellings,  churches,  and  the 
Altamont  hotel.  The  favorite  drives  are  through  Eutaw  Place  and  Druid 
Hill  Park  to  the  Pimlico  race-course,  out  Charles  St.  to  Lake  Roland 
(6  m.),  returning  by  Mt.  Washington,  Green  Spring  Ave.,  and  Druid 
Hill  Park,  and  on  .the  old  York  Road  to  Govanstown  (4  m.),  returning 
by  Charles  Ave. 

The  present  site  of  Baltimore  was  chosen  in  1729,  and  its  name  was  given  it 
(in  1745)  in  honor  of  Lord  Baltimore,  the  proprietary  of  Maryland.  In  1780  it 
became  a  port  of  entry.  In  1782  the  first  pavements  were  laid  in  Baltimore  St., 
and  in  the  same  year  the  first  regular  communication  with  Philadelphia  was 
established  through  a  line  of  stage-coaches.  The  charter  of  the  city  dates  from 
1797.  The  population,  which  at  that  time  was  26,000,  had  increased  by  1850  to 
nearly  200,000  ;  in  1860  it  was  212,418  ;  in  1870.  267,354  ;  in  1880,  832,190  ;  and  in 
1890,  434,4"9.  The  commerce  of  the  city  is  very  active  ;  and  through  her  two 
great  arteries  of  traffic  (the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  and  the  iSTorthern  Central  Rail- 
roads) she  is  successfully  competing  for  the  trade  of  the  North  and  Northwest. 
Large  shipments  of  grain  are  made  to  Europe,  and  tobacco,  cotton,  petroleum, 
flour,  canned  goods,  lumber,  coal,  cattle,  and  lard,  are  also  exi^orted.  There  are 
also  iron-works,  nail-factories,  locomotive-works,  brass  and  bell  foundries,  cot- 
ton-factories, and  other  industrial  establishments  (5,258  in  1890).  In  the  produc- 
tion of  artificial  fertilizers  Baltimore  stands  first  in  the  United  States.  The 
canning  of  oysters,  fruits,  and  vegetables,  is  estimated  to  reach  the  annual 
value  of  $10,0*00,000;  and  500,000  hides  are  annually  made  into  leather  and  sent 
to  New  England. 

From  the  number  of  its  monuments,  Baltimore  is  often  called  "  the 
Monumental  City,"  and  its  chief  glory  in  this  line  is  the  *  Washington 
Monument,  standing  100  feet  above  tide-w-ater,  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  at  the  intersection  of  Mt.  Vernon  and  Washington  Places.  The 
base  of  the  monument  is  60  ft.  square  and  35  ft.  high,  supporting  a 
Doric  shaft  130  ft.  in  height,  which  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  statue 
of  Washington,  16  ft.  high.  The  total  height  is  thus  181  ft.  from  the 
ground  and  281  ft.  above  the  river.  It  is  built  of  brick,  with  an  outer 
casing  of  white  marble,  and  cost  $200,000.  From  the  balcony  of  the 
monument  a  magnificent  *view  of  the  city,  harbor,  and  surrounding 
country  is  obtained  (access  by  a  circular  staircase  within ;  fee,  15c.).    The 


Boute  6.]  BALTIMOEE.  49 

*  Battle  3Ioiiuiiient  stands  in  Monument  Square,  in  Calvert  St.,  be- 
tween Fayette  and  Lexington  Sts.,  and  was  erected  in  1815  to  the  mem- 
ory of  those  who  fell  defending  the  city  from  the  British  in  September, 
1814.  The  square  sub-base  on  which  the  monument  rests  is  20  ft.  high, 
with  an  Egyptian  door  at  each  front,  on  which  ai-e  appropriate  inscrip- 
tions, and  representations  (in  hasso-rilievo)  of  some  of  the  incidents  of 
the  battle.  The  column  rises  18  ft.  above  the  base,  is  encircled  by 
bands  on  which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  those  who  fell,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  female  figure  in  marble,  emblematic  of  the  city  of  Balti- 
more. The  Wildey  Monument  (in  Broadway  near  Baltimore  St.)  is  a 
plain  marble  pediment  and  shaft  surmounted  by  a  group  representing 
Charity  protecting  orphans ;  it  is  dedicated  to  Thomas  Wildey,  founder 
of  the  order  of  Odd-Fellows  in  the  United  States.  The  Wells  and  McCo- 
nias  Monmnent  (cor.  Gay  and  Monument  Sts.)  commemorates  two  boys 
who  shot  General  Ross,  the  British  commander,  Sept.  12,  1814.  The 
Poe  Tombstone  stands  in  the  churchyard  of  the  Westminster  Presby- 
terian Church,  cor.  Greene  and  Fayette  Sts. 

Facing  the  Washington  Monument  on  the  S.  is  the  stately  white- 
marble  building  of  the  *  Peabody  Institute,  founded  and  endowed 
by  George  Peabody,  the  eminent  London  banker,  and  designed  for  the 
use  of  scholars  and  as  a  general  library  of  reference,  the  books  not  to 
be  taken  from  the  room.  It  contains  a  free  library  of  over  110,000  vol- 
umes, two  lecture-halls,  and  a  conservatory  of  music ;  and  a  Department 
of  Art,  to  include  art-collections  and  a  school  of  art,  is  in  process  of 
organization.  Also  fronting  the  monument  (cor.  Charles  and  Monument 
Sts.)  is  the  costly  *  Mount  Vernon  Church  (Methodist),  built  of 
green  serpentine,  with  outside  facings  of  buff  Ohio  and  red  Connecticut 
sandstone,  and  18  polished  columns  of  Aberdeen  granite.  This  is  the 
most  aristocratic  residence-quarter  of  Baltimore,  and  surrounding  the 
Place  and  on  the  adjacent  streets  are  some  of  the  finest  private  houses 
in  the  city.     One  block  oif  (at  the  cor.  of  Park  and  Madison  Sts.)  is  the 

*  First  Presbyterian  Church.  Its  spire  is  268  ft.  high,  with  side 
towers  '78  and  128  ft.  high,  and  the  interior  is  richly  decorated. 

The  *  City  Hall,  completed  in  1875,  is  one  of  the  finest  municipal 
buildings  in  America.  It  fills  the  entire  square  inclosed  by  Holliday, 
Lexington,  North,  and  Fayette  Sts.,  is  225  by  140  ft.,  and  cost  S2,2'7lV 
135.  It  is  of  marble,  in  the  composite  style,  4  stories  high,  with 
French  roof  and  an  iron  dome  260  ft.  high.  A  balcony  250  ft.  above 
the  street  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  (visitors  may  ascend 
on  Mondays  from  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m.).  Near  by  (cor.  Fayette  and  North 
Sts.)  is  the    U.  S.  Court-House^  a  massive  granite  structure.     The  old 

*  Exchange,  in  Gay  St.  between  2d  and  Lombard,  is  a  large  struct- 
ure, with  a  fa9ade  of  240  ft.  and  colonnades  of  6  Ionic  columns  on 
the  E.  and  W.  sides,  and  the  whole  surmounted  by  an  immense  dome. 
The  Post=Office  building,  a  handsome  granite  structure,  plain  but 
effective,  is  on  the  square  bounded  by  Calvert,  Fayette,  North,  and  Lex- 
ington Sts.  The  Stock  Exchange,  on  German  St.,  is  an  elegant  building. 
The  Cor7i  and  Flour  Exchange,,  cor.  Holliday  and  2d  Sts.,  is  a  solid  and 
handsome  building;  and  the  Ricdto  Building^  cor.  2d  and  Holliday  Sts., 

4 


50  BALTIMOEE.  [Route  6. 

is  a  fine  specimen  of  Renaissance  architecture.  The  Masonic  Tem- 
ple, in  Charles  St.  near  Saratoga,  is  a  stately  stone  edifice,  completed 
in  ISYO  at  a  cost  of  $400,000.  The  Odd-Felloios'  Hall,  cor.  Cathedral 
and  Saratoga  Sts.,  is  a  handsome  building,  containing  a  large  library. 
The  building  of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  cor.  Charles  and  Saratoga  Sts.,  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  city,  and  contains  a  library,  reading-room,  gym- 
nasium, etc.  Among  business  structures  the  offices  of  the  American 
(S.  W.  cor.  Baltimore  and  South  Sts.)  and  the  Sun  (S.  E.  cor.  same 
streets)  are  noteworth3\  The  Merchants'  Shot-Toioer  (cor.  Front  and 
Fayette  Sts.)  is  one  of  the  landmarks  of  the  city;  it  is  216  ft.  high  and 
40  to  20  ft.  in  diameter,  and  contains  1,100,000  bricks. 

Two  of  the  finest  chuiches  in  the  city  have  already  been  mentioned. 
The  most  celebrated  is  the  *  Cathedral,  cor.  Mulberry  and  Cathe- 
dral Sts.  It  is  of  granite,  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  190  ft.  long,  177 
broad  at  the*  arms  of  the  cross,  and  127  high  from  the  floor  to  the 
top  of  the  cross  which  surmounts  the  dome.  At  the  W.  end  rise  2  tall 
towers,  crowned  with  Saracenic  cupolas  resembling  the  minarets  of  a 
Mohammedan  mosque.  It  contains  one  of  the  largest  organs  in  Amer- 
ica, and  2  excellent  paintings :  "  The  Descent  from  the  Cross,"  pre- 
sented by  Louis  XVI,  and  "  St.  Louis  burying  his  Officers  and  Soldiers 
slain  before  Tunis,"  the  gift  of  Charles  X  of  France.  The  Roman 
Catholic  churches  of  St.  Alphomiis  (cor.  Saratoga  and  Park  Sts.),  of 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul  (in  X.  Front  St.),  and  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola  (cor. 
Calvert  and  Read  Sts.),  are  rich  in  architecture  and  decorations.  Grace 
Church  (Episcopal),  cor.  Monument  and  Park  Sts.),  is  a  tine  specimen 
of  Gothic  architecture,  in  red  sandstone.  Close  by,  at  the  cor.  of  Read 
and  Cathedral  Sts.,  is  Emanuel  (7A?»-eA  (Episcopal),  also  Gothic.  Christ 
Church  (Episcopal),  is  a  beautiful  marble  structure,  cor.  of  St.  Paul 
and  Chase  Sts.  St.  PauVs  (Episcopal),  cor.  Charles  and  Saratoga  Sts., 
is  the  old  parish  church,  the  first  Episcopal  church  in  the  city,  and  one 
of  the  oldest  of  any  denomination ;  it  is  a  fine  Romanesque  structure. 
Other  fine  Episcopal  churches  are  "^  St.  Peterh,  of  marble,  cor.  Druid 
Hill  Ave.  and  Lanvale  St.,  and  St.  Puke''s,  near  Franklin  Square.  The 
Unitarian  Church,  cor.  X.  Charles  and  Franklin  Sts.,  is  an  impos- 
ing structure,  with  a  colonnade  in  front  composed  of  4  Tuscan  columns 
and  2  pilasters  which  foi^m  the  arcades.  From  the  portico  the  entrance 
is  by  5  bronze  doors.  The  Eutaw  Place  Baptist  Church,  cor.  Eutaw 
and  Dolphin  Sts.,  is  noted  for  its  beautifully  proportioned  marble  spire, 
186  ft.  high.  The  Brown  Memorial  Church  (Presbyterian),  cor.  Park 
and  Townsend  Sts.,  is  a  spacious  marble  edifice  in  the  Gothic  style ;  and 
the  Westminster,  cor.  Green  and  Fayette  Sts.,  is  noteworthy  for  contain- 
ing the  grave  and  monument  of  Edgar  Allan  Poe.  The  Associate  Re- 
formed Church  is  a  handsome  Romanesque  building  of  gray  stone  with 
a  circular  auditorium.  It  is  on  the  cor.  Maryland  Ave.  and  Preston  St. 
The  First  Methodist  Episcopcd  Church,  cor.  St.  Paul  and  3d  Sts.,  is  a 
fine  stone  structure,  rendered  imposing  by  its  lofty  square  tower  or 
campanile  in  the  Venetian  style.  Associated  with  it  are  the  striking 
series  of  buildings  belonging  to  the  Womanh  College.  The  whole  group 
forms  one  of  the  most  notable  architectural  features  of  the  citv.     The 


Route  6.']  BALTEMOKE.  51 

Hebrew  Synagogue^  in  Lloyd  near  Baltimore  St.,  is  large  and  handsome. 
The  new  Synagogue,  just  completed,  is  an  elaborria  stone  structure  near 
the  upper  end  of  Madison  X\q. 

The  *  Athenseum  Building,  cor.  Saratoga  and  St.  Paul  Sts.,  con- 
tains the  Library  of  the  Ifedical  and  Chiricrgical  Faculty  (17,000  vol- 
umes), and  the  collections  of  the  ''^Maryland  Historical  Society,  compris- 
ing a  library  of  28,000  volumes,  numerous  historical  relics,  and  some 
fine  pictures  and  statuary  (admission  free).  The  Mercantile  Library 
(36,000  volumes ;  open  from  10  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.)  is  in  the  building  in 
Charles,  near  Saratoga  St.  The  Maryland  Institute,  designed  for 
the  promotion  of  the  mechanic  arts,  is  a  vast  brick  structure,  cor.  Bal- 
timore St.  and  Market  Square.  The  first  floor  is  used  for  the  Center 
Market ;  the  second  floor,  260  ft.  long,  for  classes  in  designing,  painting, 
book-keeping,  etc.  It  also  contains  a  library  (21,000  volumes),  lecture- 
rooms,  a  school  of  design,  etc.  The  Johns  Hopkins  University, 
endowed  with  $3,500,000,  has  extensive  buildings  on  Howard,  Eutaw, 
Little  Eoss,  and  Monument  Sts.,  to  which  it  has  added  very  complete 
Chemical,  Physiccd,  Geological,  and  Biological  Laboratories  and  an  As- 
tronomiccd  Observatory.  The  principal  object  of  the  University  is  the 
higher  education  of  post-graduates,  in  which  it  has  been  very  success- 
ful. It  also  has  a  college  course.  The  Johns  Hopkins  Hospital  was 
opened  in  May,  1889,  with  large  buildings,  which  cost  nearly  $2,000,000, 
in  N.  Broadway,  and  has  all  the  modern  improvements  in  hospital 
arrangement.  The  treatment  is  on  the  latest  and  best  system,  so  as  to 
enable  it  to  take  the  same  rank  in  medical  science  as  the  Johns  Hop- 
kins University  does  in  letters.  The  University  of  Maryland,  founded 
in  1 807  with  a  law  and  medicine  faculty,  has  a  building  modeled  after 
the  Pantheon  in  Rome,  on  the  cor.  Lombar.d  and  Greene  Sts.  The  State 
Norracd  School,  cor.  Carrollton  Ave.  and  Townsend  St.,  is  one  of  the 
finest  buildings  in  the  city.  The  City  College,  in  N.  Howard  St.,  is  a 
graceful  edifice  in  the  Collegiate-Gothic  style.  The  Enoch  Pratt  Free 
JAbrary,  in  Mulberry  St.,  between  Cathedral  St.  and  Park  Ave.,  is  a 
building  of  white  marble,  opened  January  4,  1885,  and  contains  105,00(J 
volumes.  It  is  in  the  Romanesque  style,  with  a  tower  98  ft.  high  rising 
from  the  middle  of  the  facade.  It  has  room  for  200,000  books.  There 
are  also  4  branch  libraries. 

The  markets  of  Baltimore  are  famous,  and  worth  visiting.  The  Lex- 
ington Market  is  most  convenient.     It  should  be  seen  on  Saturday  night. 

Prominent  charitable  institutions  are  the  Maryland  hxstiitdion  for 
the  Bistruction  of  the  Blind,  a  large  marble  building  in  North  Ave. 
near  Charles  St.,  and  the  Episcopal  Church  Home,  for  the  relief  of  the 
afflicted  and  destitute,  in  Broadway  near  Baltimore  St.  The  *  State 
Insane  Asylum  is  a  massive  pile  of  granite  bufldings  near  Catons- 
ville  (6  miles  from  the  city).  The  Shejjpard  Asylum  for  the  Lisane, 
founded  by  Moses  Sheppard,  a  wealthy  Quaker,  occupies  a  commanding 
site  near  Towsontown,  7  miles  from  the  city.  The  *  Bay  View  Asy- 
lum (Almshouse)  is  a  vast  brick  building,  situated  on  a  commanding 
eminence  near  the  outskirts  of  the  city  on  the  Philadelphia  road.  To 
these  we  may  add  the  Baltimore  Orphan  Asylum.,  on  Strieker  St.,  founded 


52  BALTIMORE.  [Route  6. 

in  1801,  for  the  maintenance  of  orphans  under  9  years  of  age  ;  the 
Henry  WaUoribS  Childrenh  Aid  Society^  72  Calvert  St.,  receiving  children 
between  the  ages  of  8  and  15. 

By  the  Western  Maryland  R.  R.  the  visitor  can  reach  many  notable 
charitable  institutions  a  few  miles  from  the  city  :  the  Mt.  Hope  Retreat 
for  the  Lisane^  on  the  Reistertorin  road,  under  the  chai'ge  of  the  Sisters 
of  Charity :  it  has  600  patients,  extensive  grounds,  and  fine  buildings ; 
the  McDonogh  School  for  Poor  Boys,  founded  by  John  McDonogh,  of 
New  Orleans ;  and  the  pretty  cottage  buildings  of  the  Thomccs  Wilson 
/Sanitarium  for  Sick  Children,  to  which  daily  excursion-trains  are  run 
in  summer.  Some  of  the  largest  Catholic  educational  institutions  for 
girls  are  the  Mt.  cle  Scdes,  on. the  Frederick  road;  the  Notice  Dame,  in 
Charles  St.  Ave. ;  and  the  St.  Agnes,  at  Mt,  Washington.  In  the  north- 
ern section  is  the  Home  for  Incurables  and  the  Urdted  States  Marine 
Hospital.  The  Samuel  Ready  Orphan  Asylum  is  on  the  eastern  limits. 
There  are  some  fifty  other  prominent  orphan  asylums,  hospitals,  and 
homes  for  the  aged  and  infirm  in  the  city. 

The  water- works  of  Baltimore  are  extensive ;  among  the  reservoirs 
formed  to  supply  the  city  we  may  mention  Lake  Roland  (about  8  miles 
from  the  city,  on  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.),  extending  over  116  acres. 
The  drive  to  this  lake  is  through  a  romantic  country,  the  valley  of 
Jones's  Falls  being  picturesque  along  its  entire  length.  Loch  Raven,  a 
large  lake,  5  miles  in  length,  formed  by  damming  the  Gunpowder  River, 
is  the  largest  source  of  supply.  The  water  is  conducted  by  a  tunnel 
blasted  through  the  solid  rock  for  ^  miles  to  La.ke  Montehe'Uo,  about  2 
miles  from  the  city. 

*  Druid  Hill  Park  (reached  by  many  street-cars)  is  a  beautiful 
pleasure-ground  of  680  acres,  situated  in  the  northern  suburbs  of  the 
city.  The  architectural  decorations  of  the  park  are  few;  its  charms 
lying  chiefly  in  its  rural  beauty,  its  secluded  Avalks,  drives,  and  bridle- 
paths. The  surface  is  undulating  and  well  wooded,  the  trees  being  among 
the  oldest  and  finest  in  any  public  park  in  America.  Several  of  the  emi- 
nences overlook  the  surrounding  country,  and  from  the  *tower  at  the  head 
of  Pruid  Hill  Lake  there  is  a  superb  view  of  the  river  and  harboi'.  Rcd- 
terson  Park,  at  the  E.  end  of  Baltimore  St.,  embraces  200  acres,  pleas- 
antly laid  out,  and  commands  extensive  views  in  every  direction.  The 
earthworks  thrown  up  during  the  attack  of  1814  still  remain.  The  prin- 
cipal cemeteries  are  Greenmont  Cemetery,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city 
(York  road  and  Charles  St.  cars) ;  Loudou  Park  Cemetery,  2  miles 
from  the  city  via  Catonsville  horse  or  steam  cars  ;  Lioraine  Cemetery, 
on  the  Franklin  and  Windsor  roads,  by  Powhatan  R.  R.,  3  miles.  All 
contain  many  monuments,  and  are  picturesquely  laid  out. 

*  Federal  Hill  (reached  by  the  South  Baltimore  horse-cars)  is  a 
commanding  eminence  on  the  S.  side  of  the  inner  basin,  and  afi^ords  fine 
views  of  the  city,  river,  and  bay.  It  has  been  purchased  by  the  city 
for  a  park,  and  contains  a  U.  S.  Signal  Station.  Fort  McHenry, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  is  worth  a  visit;  it  is  situated  at  the 
end  of  Whitestone  Point,  3  miles  from  the  City  Hall,  and  is  reached  by 
S.  Baltimore  horse-cars  and  also  by  ferry  from  foot  of  Broadway.     The 


Route  6.]  BALTmOEE.  63 

sentinels  will  usually  admit  strangers.     The  Railroad  Tunioels,  by 

which  all  the  railroads  on  the  N.  side  of  the  city  are  connected  with 
tide-water  at  Canton,  are  among  the  wonders  of  Baltimore.  The  Balti- 
more and  Potomac  Tunnel  is,  next  to  the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  the  longest 
in  America  (6,969  ft.)  and  the  Union  Tunnel  is  3,410  ft.  long.  They 
Avere  completed  in  1873,  at  a  cost  of  $4,500,000.  The  Belt  Line  Tunnel, 
now  in  course  of  construction  by  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  will  be 
even  more  extensive.  It  is  being  made  under  Howard  St.  for  its  entire 
length,  and  vrill  thence  extend  xS.  of  Huntington  Ave.  and  along  the  N. 
side  of  the  city.  This  will  give  an  exit  for  this  railroad  to  Philadelphia 
without  crossing  the  ferry,  as  at  present,  and  will  at  the  same  time  give 
a  rapid  transit  system  to  the  city. 

Among  the  Bayside  resorts  most  patronized  are  Tolchester  Beacli^  25 
miles  from  Baltimore,  in  Kent  County,  and  Bay  Ridge^  below  Annapo- 
lis, about  32  miles  distant.  Both  have  hotels  and  bathing-houses, 
and  steamers  run  to  them  twice  a  day. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions  has  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  mnch  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the  vis- 
itor can  readily  spend  more  time  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  attention. 

1.  Get  general  view  of  the  city  and  harbor  from  top  of  Washington 
Monument;  note  the  famous  Barye  bronzes  (gift  of  Mr.  Walters)  in 
Mount  Yernon  Place,  as  well  as  the  bronze  statues  of  Chief-Justice 
Taney  and  George  Peabody ;  visit  the  Peabody  Institute  Library  and 
Art  Gallery,  and  (if  it  be  Wednesday  in  February,  March,  or  April)  the 
private  galleries  of  Mr.  W.  T.  Walters,  No.  5  Mount  Yernon  Place  W. 
Yisit  the  buildings  of  the  Johns  Hopkins  University,  three  blocks  W.  on 
Howard  St.  Guide  may  be  obtained  at  the  Registrar's  office,  who  will 
show  visitors  the  chemical,  biological,  and  physical  laboratories,  library, 
gymnasium,  and  other  features. 

2.  Take  the  cable  street-car  line  and  ride  through  the  business  por- 
tion of  the  city  from  Patterson  to  Druid  Hill  Parks.  Yisit  both  of  these 
parks.  Examine  the  wharves  and  shipping  along  the  harbor  and  basin. 
Yisit  City  Hall  (fine  view).  Post  Office,  Battle  Monument,  and  the  Equi- 
table Building. 

3.  Drive  out  Eutaw  Place  to  Park  and  back  by  way  of  Mount  Royal 
Ave.  and  Cathedral  or  Charles  Sts.  Thence  by  Eager  St.  to  Broadway 
and  visit  the  Johns  Hopkins  Hospital,  which  has  the  finest  hospital 
buildings  in  the  world.     Also  see  the  Wildey  Monument. 

4.  By  street-cars  or  carriage  to  Federal  Hill — the  place  where  Gen- 
eral Benjamin  F.  Butler  held  the  city  during  the  war — and  thence  to 
Fort  McHenry.  The  well-known  Chesapeake  potteries  and  the  Colum- 
bian Iron  Yv^orks,  with  Government  war-vessels  in  course  of  construc- 
tion, are  near  the  latter.  The  vast  plant  of  the  Maryland  Steel  Com- 
pany, with  Bessemer  converters,  rolling-mills,  and  ship-yards,  may  be 
reached  at  Sparrow s's  Point  by  either  steamer  or  rail. 


54  WASHINGTON.  [Route  8. 

5.  If  the  weathei'  is  fine,  a  boat  may  be  taken  for  an  excur- 
sion on  the  harbor,  or  a  trip  to  Tolchester  Beach,  Annapolis,  or  Bay 
Eidge. 

6.  A  walk  about  the  city.  Through  Baltimore  St.  examine  the  Bal- 
timore k  Ohio  Building,  cor.  Calvert  St.  Thence  through  Charles  St. 
to  Mulberry ;  visit  the  Enoch  Pratt  Free  Library.  Continue  walk  out 
Charles  St.  to  North  Ave.  and  return  by  Calvert  or  St.  Paul  St.,  to  see 
handsome  residences  and  fine  iron  bridges  over  Jones  Falls  and  the  rail- 
roads. 

Y.  Visit  the  beautiful  country-seats  N.  of  the  city.  Drive  out  Hart- 
ford road  and  visit  Johns  Hopkins  estate  "  Clifton,"  now  the  property 
of  the  Johns  Hopkins  University.  Drive  through  the  Garrett  estate  to 
the  York  road  or  Charles  St.  Ave.  Thence  to  Lake  Eoland  and  return 
by  Roland  Ave.  or  Green  Spring  Ave.  and  Druid  Hill  Park.  The  larger 
water-supply  at  TiOch  Raven,  with  its  very  picturesque  surpoundings, 
may  be  reached  by  the  Baltimore  &  Lehigh  narrow-gauge  railroad  from 
North  Ave. 

7.  Baltimore  to  Washington. 

The  traveler  has  a  choice  of  two  routes  in  going  from  Baltimore  to 
Washington ;  the  AYashington  branch  of  the  Baltimore  dc  Ohio  JR.  R. 
and  the  Baltimore  &  Potomac  R.  R.  The  distance  by  the  former  is  40 
miles,  and  time  45  minutes  ;  by  the  latter,  43  miles,  and  time  1  to  1-^  hr. : 
fare,  $1.20.  The  country  traversed  is  flat,  with  few  picturesque  and  no 
very  striking  features.  On  leaving  the  Baltimore  depot,  the  trains  of  the 
Baltimore  &  Potomac  line  pass  through  the  great  tunnels  beneath  the 
city,  mentioned  above ;  and  just  before  entering  Washington  through 
another  tunnel  1,500  ft.  long.  By  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  line  the  splen- 
did *  Washington  Viaduct  is  crossed  (9  miles  out).  The  first  view  of  the 
Capitol  in  approaching  Washington  is  very  fine  and  should  not  be  lost. 

New  York  to  Washington. — The  regular  Express  trains  run  through 
in  6  to  8  hours.  The  Limited  Express  train  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R,, 
composed  exclusively  of  palace  cars,  runs  through  in  5  hours  and  5 
minutes.  The  Royal  Blue  Line  Express  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R., 
composed  exclusively  of  palace  cars,  including  dining-car,  runs  through 
in  5  hours.     This  is  the  fastest  train  in  the  United  States. 

8.  Washington  City. 

Hotels.— The  best  on  the  American  plan  are  the  Arlington,  in  Vermont 
Ave.,  between  H  and  I  Sts.;  Arno,  Igth  St.  N.  W.  (between  H  and  I  Sts.);  the 
Ebbitt,  cor.  F  and  14th  Sts.,  is  a  favorite  with  army  aud  navy  officers  ;  the 
Biggs,  cor.  1.5th  and  G  Sts. ;  Willarcfs,  cor.  Peunsylvania  Ave.  and  14th  St. ; 
and  Wormley^s,  15th  and  H  Sts.  Other  good  hotels  on  the  American  plan  are 
the  American  House,  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  7th  St.;  the  Cochran,  14th 
and  K  Sts.;  the  Metropolitan,  in  Pennsylvania  A-^'e.  near  6th  St.;  the  National, 
cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  6th  St.;  and  the  BandaU,  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and 
15th  St.  The  best  on  the  European  plan  are  Chamberlain's,  cor.  15th  and  I  Sts. ; 
the  Normandie,  cor.  15th  and  I  Sts.;  the  Shoreham,  cor.  15th  and  H  Sts.;  the 
;S'i'.  James,  cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  6th  St.;  and  Welcker's,  15th  St.  near  H. 
The  Hamilton  (cor.  14th  and  K  Sts.)  is  a  select  family  hotel. 

Restaurants.—  Welclcer''s  (in  15th  St.  near  H),  and  Wormley's  (cor.  15th  and 


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Route  8.]  WASHINGTON.  55 

H),  are  excellent :  other  good  restaurants  are  3foylan''s,  Pennyslvania  Ave.,  acl- 
joining  Willard's.  and  the  Losekam,  F  St.,  bet.  13th  and  14th  Sts.  ;  Harveifs 
(cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  11th  St.)  is  noted  for  its  ovsters.  Good  lunch-rooms 
are  the  Holly-Tree,  518  9th  St.  ;  and  Evans's,  iu  F  St.  near  9th  St.  The  hotels 
on  the  European  plan  have  restaurants  attached.  In  the  basement  of  the  Capi- 
tol, under  each  House,  is  an  excellent  restaurant,  open  during  the  sessions  of 
Congress.  Visitors  who  prefer  to  obtain  transient  board  or  rooms  can  find  good 
accommodations  iu  all  parts  of  the  city. 

Modes  of  Co-a.-vej2in.ce.— Street-cars  (fare,  5c.,  6  tickets  for  25c.)  afford 
easy  access  to  all  poiuts.  There  are  electric  cars  running  to  Tennallytown, 
Chevy  Chase,  and  to  Eckington.  There  are  herdic  lines  in  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
and  1.5th  St.,  and  in  F  and  G  Sts.  CaJ)S  for  one  or  two  passengers,  7oc.  an  hour  ; 
three  or  four  passengers,  $1  an  hour  in  the  city  limits  ;  by  the  trip,  25c.  for  each 
passenger  for  1  mile.  For  excursions  beyond' the  city  limits  it  is  better  to  hire 
carriages  at  the  liverv-stables  or  hotels.  "A  steamboat  for  Mount  Vernon  leaves 
the  7th  St.  wharf  daily  at  10  a.  m.  Ferry-boats  run  to  Alexandria  hourly  during 
the  day  from  7th  St.  wharf  (fare.  15c. ;  round  trip,  25c.). 

Eailroad  Stations.— The  station  of  the  BcOtimore  &  Potomac  R.  B.  is  a 
spacious  and  highly  ornate  building,  cor.  B  and  6th  Sts.  The  Richmond  &  Dan- 
ville, Cliesapealie  &  Ohio,  snd  the  Richmond,  FredericTcsburq  &  Potomac  trains 
leave  from  the  Baltimore  and  Potomac  station.  That  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio 
R.  R.  is  at  the  cor.  New  Jersey  Ave.  and  C  St. 

Churches.— Those  most  visited  by  strangers  are  the  St.  Aloysius  (Roman 
Catholic),  cor.  N.  Capitol  and  I  Sts.,  noted  for  its  rich  interior  and  fine  choral 
music ;  St.  Matthew's,  E.  of  Lafayette  Square,  usually  attended  by  Catholic 
members  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps  ;  St.  Dominic'' s  (Roman  Catholic),  an  impos- 
ing granite  structure,  cor.  6th  and  F  Sts.;  St.  Augustine  (Roman  Catholic),  in 
1.5th,  between  L  and  M  Sts.,  noted  for  its  music  ;  ^S';'.  John's  (Episcopal),  front- 
ing Lafayette  Square  on  the  N.,  a  famous  old  church,  attended  by  Presidents 
Madison  and  Monroe ;  the  Church  cf  the  Epiphany  (Episcopal),  in  G  St., 
between  ISth  and  14th  ;  the  Ascension  (Episcopal),  of  light  stone,  the  finest 
church  in  the  city.  cor.  Massachusetts  Ave.  and  12th  St.,  N.  W.;  the  Metropoli- 
tan Methodist,  a  splendid  brown-stone  edifice,  cor.  4^  and  C  Sts. ;  the  Mount 
Vernon  Methodist,  cor.  9th  and  K  Sts. ;  the  Foundry  Methodist,  in  F  St.  near 
14th  ;  X\\e  First  Presbyterian,  in  4^  St.  near  C  St.;  the  Church  of  the  Covenant 
(Presbyterian),  cor.  18th  St.  and  Connecticut  Ave.;  the  N.  T.  Avenue  Presbyte- 
rian, in  N.  Y.  Ave.  near  14th  St.;  Calvary  (Baptist),  cor  H.  and  8th  Sts.;  Gar- 
field Memorial  (Christian),  Vermont  Ave.  near  N  St. :  All  Souls  (LTnitarian),  cor. 
14th  and  L  Sts.;  Church  of  Our  Father  (L niversalist),  cor.  13th  and  L  Sts.; 
and  First  Congregational,  cor.  G  and  ICth  Sts. 

Theatres  "and  Amusements.— The  Keiv  National  Theatre  is  in  E.  St., 
near  14th  St.  Albaugh's  Grand  Opera-House,  in  1.5th  St.,  near  Pennsylvania 
Ave.,  was  opened  in  Nov.,  1885.  Harris's  Bijou  Theatre  (formerly  Ford's  Opera- 
Honse)  is  in  9th  St.,  near  Pennsylvania  Ave.  Lyceum  Theatre  is  at  the  cor. 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  11th  Sts.,  N.  W.  Academy  of  Music,  cor.  D  and  9th 
Sts.,  is  used  for  entertainments.  In  Masonic  Halt  (cor.  F  and  9th  Sts.)  public 
parties  and  balls  are  often  given.  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  in  7th  St.,  between  D  and 
E  Sts.,  and  Willard's  Hall,  in  F  St.  near  14th,  are  also  used  for  lectures  and 
concerts.  The  Panorama  of  the  Battle  of  Manassas,  cor.  15th  St.  and  Ohio 
Ave.,  was  opened  Oct.  5,  1885,  and  is  a  remarkably  realistic  representation. 
Schuetzen  Park  is  a  German  resort  in  7th  St.,  beyond"^the  Howard  University. 

Reading-Booms.— At  all  the  leading  hotels  are  reading-rooms  well  sup- 
plied with  newspapers.  The  Library  of  Congress,  in  the  Capitol,  is  open  to 
visitors  from  9  A.  m.  to  4  p.  m.  The  Army  Medial  Library,  cor.  7th  and  B  Sts., 
is  the  finest  medical  library  in  the  United  States.  The  reading-rooms  of  the 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association  (N.  Y.  Ave.,  between  14th  and  1.5th  Sts.)  are 
open  (free)  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  The  Patent-Office  Library  is  rich  in  scientific 
and  mechanical  works.  At  the  otfices  of  the  Washington  correspondents  of 
leading  American  newspapers  files  of  newspapers  are  usually  accessible  to  the 
visitor. 

Art  Collections.— The  Corcoi~an  Gallery  of  Art  (cor.  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
and  17th  St.)  has  one  of  the  richest  collections  in  America  (see  p.  68).  Admis- 
sion free  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  also  on  Friday  evening,  from 
7.80  to  10  p.  M.  ;  on  other  days,  25c. 


56  WASHINOTON.  [Route  8. 

Post-Offlce.— The  City  Fost- Office  is  in  G  St.  between  6tli  and  7th  Sts. 
Open  from  6  a.  si.  to  11  p.  m.  ;  on  Sundays  from  8  to  10  a.  m.  and  6  to  7  p.  m  . 

Washington  City,  the  political  capital  of  the  United  States,  is  sit- 
uated on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Potomac  River  at  its  confluence  with  the 
Eastern  Branch.  Its  site  is  an  admirable  one,  consisting  of  an  exten- 
sive undulating  plain  suri-ounded  by  rolling  hills  and  diversified  by 
iri-egular  elevations  which  furnish  advantageous  positions  for  the  vari- 
ous public  buildings.  The  plan  of  the  city  is  unique  ("  the  city  of 
Philadelphia  griddled  across  the  city  of  Versailles  "),  and  is  on  a  scale 
which  shows  that  it  was  expected  that  a  vast  metropolis  would  grow 
up  there.  It  covers  an  area  4^  miles  long  by  2^  broad,  embracing 
nearly  9^  square  miles.  A  very  small  portion  of  this,  however,  is  as  yet 
built  upon.  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  in  that  part  of  its  course  be- 
tween the  Capitol  and  the  White  House  (1^  mile)  is  the  busiest  and 
most  fashionable  street  in  the  city;  it  is  160  ft.  wide,  and  on  it  or  near 
it  are  many  of  the  leading  hotels,  theatres,  stores,  etc.  F  St.,  between 
Yth  and  15th  Sts.,  is  now  the  leading  street  for  shops.  Seventh  St., 
which  intersects  Pennsylvania  Ave.  about  midway  between  the  Capitol 
and  the  Treasuiy,  is  the  next  most  important  thoroughfare,  and  contains 
many  handsome  stores.  Massachusetts  Ave.  extends  entirely  across  the 
city  (4^  m.),  parallel  with  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  and  on  portions  of  its 
course  is  lined  with  fine  residences.  Maryland  Ave.  leads  S.  W.  from 
the  Capitol  to  the  Long  Bridge,  and  N.  E.  to  the  Toll-gate.  Vermont 
and  Connecticut  Aves.  contain  many  handsome  residences.  Fourteenth 
St.  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  cross-streets.  Ninth  St.,  from 
Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  F  St.,  is  entirely  a  business  street.  The  favorite 
drives  are  to  the  Zoological  Park ;  to  the  Cabin  John  Bridge ;  to  the 
Soldiers'  Home ;  to  the  Heights  of  Georgetown ;  to  the  Little  Falls  of 
the  Potomac  (3  miles  above  Georgetown) ;  to  the  Great  Falls  of  the 
Potomac  (lY  miles  from  Washington);  and  across  the  river  to  Arling- 
ton, Alexandria,  and  the  heights  along  the  Virginia  shore. 

The  best  time  to  visit  Washington  and  to  see  its  most  characteristic 
aspect  is  during  the  sessions  of  Congress,  These  begin  on  the  first  Mon- 
day in  December,  and  last  until  March  4  in  the  odd-numbered  years, 
and  until  June,  July,  or  even  October  in  the  even-numbered  years.  Dur- 
ing this  period  the  galleries  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives 
are  open  to  visitors.  The  sessions  of  both  Houses  begin  at  noon  and 
usually  close  before  sunset,  but  sometimes  they  are  prolonged  far  into 
the  night.  A  flag  displayed  over  the  N.  wing  of  the  Capitol  indicates 
that  the  Senate  is  in  session ;  over  the  S.  wing  that  the  House  is  in  ses- 
sion. When  the  sittings  are  prolonged  into  the  night,  the  great  lantern 
over  the  dome  is  illuminated.  The  best  times  for  seeing  the  natural 
beauties  of  Washington  are  May,  or  early  June,  and  October. 

The  site  of  Washington  City,  if  not  chosen  by  Washington  himself,  seems  to 
have  been  selected  through  his  agency,  and  it  was  he  who  laid  the  corner-stone 
of  the  Capitol.  This  was  on  Sept.  18.  1793,  seven  years  before  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment was  removed  thither  from  Philadelphia.  Under  Washington's  direction 
the  city  was  planned  and  laid  out  by  Andrew  Jillicott.  It  appears  to  have  been 
Washington's  desire  that  it  should  be  called  the  "Federal  City,"  but  the  name 
of  "the  city  of  Washington"  was  conferred  upon  it  on  Sept.  9,  1791.    The 


Houte  8.]  WASHINGTON.  57 

city  was  incorporated  May  3,  1802.  Its  population  in  1860  was  60,000  ;  in  1870, 
109,189  :  in  1880, 147,307  ;  and  by  census  of  1890,  230,s92.  This  is  increased  dur- 
ing the  sessions  of  Congress  by  a  floating  population  amounting  to  many  thou- 
sands.   The  commerce  and  manufactures  of  Washington  are  unimportant. 

The  Public  Buildings  ^  are  the  chief  attraction  of  Washington,  and 
the  **  Capitol  is  not  only  the  finest  of  these,  but  is  probably  the 
most  magnificent  public  edifice  in  the  world.  It  crowns  the  summit  of 
Capitol  Hill  (90  ft.  high),  and  consists  of  a  main  building  352  ft.  long 
and  121  ft.  deep,  and  two  wings  or  extensions,  each  238  by  140  ft. 
Its  whole  length  is  751  ft.  4  in.,  and  the  area  covered  rather  more  than 
3-|-  acres.  The  material  of  the  central  building  is  a  light-yellow  free- 
stone (painted  white),  but  the  extensions  are  pui-e  white  marble.  The 
surrounding  grounds,  which  are  beautifully  cultivated,  and  embellished 
with  fountains  and  statuary,  embrace  about  50  acres,  and  are  known  as 
East  and  West  Grounds.  The  main  front  is  toward  the  E.,  and  is 
adorned  with  three  grand  porticoes  of  Corinthian  columns.  On  the 
steps  of  the  central  portico  are  groups  of  statuary  by  Persico  and 
Greenough ;  and  on  the  esplanade  in  front  of  it  is  "  Greenough's  colos- 
sal statue  of  Washington,  Colossal  marble  statues  of  Peace  and  War 
are  on  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  entrance ;  and  over  the  doorway  is  a  bass- 
relief  of  Fame  and  Peace  crowning  Washington  with  laurel.  The  W. 
front  projects  83  ft.,  and  is  embellished  with  a  recessed  portico  of  10 
columns.  This  front,  though  not  so  imposing  architecturally  as  the 
eastern,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  central  and  western  portions  of 
the  city  and  of  all  the  principal  public  buildings.  The  Bronze  Door^ 
which  forms  the  entrance  to  the  Rotunda  from  the  E.  portico,  is  worth 
attention.  It  was  designed  by  Randolph  Rogers,  cast  by  Von  Miiller, 
at  Munich,  is  17  ft.  high  and  9  ft.  wide,  weighs  20,000  lbs.,  and  cost 
$28,000.  The  work  is  in  alto-relievo^  and  commemorates  the  history  of 
Columbus  and  the  discovery  of  America.  There  are  also  bronze  doors  at 
the  entrance  to  the  Senate  wing,  designed  by  Crawford,  and  completed 
(after  his  death)  by  Rinehart,  of  Baltimore.  The  Rotunda  is  96  ft.  in 
diameter  and  180  ft.  high.  In  the  panels  surrounding  it  are  8  large 
pictures,  illustrating  scenes  in  Amei'ican  history,  painted  for  the  Govern- 
ment by  native  artists ;  and  over  the  4  doors  or  entrances  are  alti-rilievi  in 
stone.  At  a  height  of  107  ft.  from  the  floor,  there  is  painted,  in  imitation 
of  alti-rilievi,  a  series  of  illustrations  of  American  history,  on  a  space  9  ft. 
high  encircling  the  spacious  wall.  The  floor  is  of  freestone,  supported 
by  arches  of  brick,  resting  upon  two  concentric  peristyles  of  Doric 
columns  in  the  crypt  below.  The  ^  Dome  rises  over  the  Rotunda  in  the 
center  of  the  Capitol,  and  is  the  most  imposing  feature  of  the  vast  pile. 
The  interior  measures  96  ft.  in  diameter,  and  220  ft.  from  the  floor  to 
the  ceiling.  Externally  it  is  135|^  ft.  in  diameter,  and  rises  241  ft.  above 
the  roof  of  the  main  building,  3074-  ft.  above  the  base-line  of  the  building, 
and  377  ft.  above  low  tide.  Visitors  should  not  fail  to  make  the  ascent 
of  the  Dome.     A  spiral  stairway,  between  the  outer  and  inner  shells 

^  All  public  buildings,  including  the  Capitol  and  the  several  Departments, 
are  open  to  the  public  every  day  (except  Sundays),  the  Capitol  from  9  A.  m.  to  5 
p.  M.,  but  the  Departments  from  9  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m.  only.  No  fees  are  asked  or 
expected  for  showing  them,  except  to  the  regular  guides. 


58  WASIimGTOJS-.  [Route  8. 

(diverging  to  the  1.  from  the  corridor  outside  the  N.  door  of  the  Rotunda) 
affords  easy  access,  and  gives  a  favorable  oppoilunity  for  inspecting, 
from  different  points  of  view,  the  fresco-painting  on  the  canopy  over- 
head. This  is  the  woi"k  of  Brumidi ;  it  covers  6,000  ft.  of  space  and  cost 
$40,000.  All  the  figures  (63  in  number)  are  of  colossal  proportions,  so 
as  to  appear  life-size  when  seen  from  the  floor  beneath.  From  the  bal- 
ustrade at  the  base  of  the  canopy  is  obtained  a  magnificent*  view  of  the 
city  and  the  surrounding  country.  From  the  gallery  immediately  under- 
neath the  fresco-gallery  another  spiral  stairway  leads  up  to  the  lantern 
(1'7  ft.  in  diameter  and  52.  ft.  high).  This  is  surmounted  by  the  tholus, 
or  ball,  and  this,  in  turn,  by  Crawford's  fine  bronze  statue  of  Liberty, 
19^  ft.  high. — Leaving  the  Rotunda  by  the  S.  doorway,  the  visitor  finds 
himself  in  the  Old  Hall  of  Representatives  {novf  used  as  a  "National 
Statuary  Hall").  This  room,  the  noblest  in  the  Capitol,  is  semicircular 
in  form,  96  ft.  long  and  57  ft.  high  to  the  apex  of  the  ceiling.  The  24 
columns  which  support  the  entablature  are  of  variegated  green  breccia^ 
or  pudding-stone,  from  the  Potomac  Valley;  and  the  ceiling  is  painted  in 
panel,  in  imitation  of  that  of  the  Pantheon  at  Rome.  Light  is  admitted 
through  a  cupola  in  the  center  of  the  ceiling.  Over  the  S.  door  is  a  statue 
of  Liberty,  by  Causici,  and  an  eagle  by  Yalaperti.  Over  the  N.  door  is  a 
statue,  by  Franzoni,  representing  History  standing  in  a  winged  car,  the 
wheel  of  which,  by  an  ingenious  device,  forms  the  dial  of  a  clock.  In  1864 
the  room  was  set  apart  as  a  National  Statuary  Hall,  each  State  being- 
requested  to  send  statues  of  two  of  its  most  eminent  men.  A  number  of 
States  have  responded,  and  the  Hall  is  slowly  filling  up,  containing  al- 
ready a  numerous  aiTay  of  statues  and  busts,  of  which  those  of  Hamil- 
ton, Jefferson,  Winthrop,  General  Greene,  Livingston,  Fulton,  Samuel 
Adams,  Roger  Williams,  Ethan  Allen,  Yinnie  Ream's  statue  of  Lincoln, 
and  a  plaster  cast  of  Houdon's  Washington,  are  most  noteworthy. — The 
corridor  to  the  S.  leads  to  the  present  Hall  of  Representatives,  the  finest 
legislative  chamber  in  the  world,  139  ft.  long,  93  ft.  wide,  and  36  ft.  high. 
The  ceiling  is  of  iron-work,  with  45  stained  glass  panels  on  which  are 
painted  the  arms  of  the  States.  To  the  left  of  the  marble  desk  of  the 
Speaker  is  a  full-length  portrait  of  Lafayette,  and  to  the  r.  a  full-length 
portrait  of  Washington,  copied  from  Stuart's,  by  Vanderlyn.  Two 
landscapes  by  Bierstadt,  "  The  Discovery  of  the  Hudson,"  and  "  Settle- 
ment of  Cahfornia,"  and  a  fresco  by  Brumidi,  of  Washington  parting  with 
his  officers,  fill  panels  on  the  S.  wall.  The  Strangers'  Gallery  (reached 
by  two  grand  marble  stairways)  extends  entirely  round  the  hall ;  the 
space  not  specially  appropriated  fur  the  use  of  the  diplomatic  corps  and 
the  reporters  for  the  press  is  open  to  visitors.  The  Speaker'^s  Desk,  of 
white  marble,  is  very  fine  ;  and  the  Lobby,  or  Retiring-Room,  in  the  rear 
of  the  desk,  is  a  superb  chamber.  From  the  S.  lobby  of  the  Hall  two 
stairways  descend  to  the  basement,  where  are  located  the  Refectory  and 
committee-rooms.  The  room  of  the  Committee  of  Agriculture  will  repay 
a  visit ;  the  walls  and  ceiling  are  painted  in  fresco  by  Brumidi. — The 
Senate- Chamber,  reached  by  the  corridor  leading  N.  from  the  Rotunda, 
is  somewhat  smaller  than  the  Hall  of  Representatives,  being  113:^  ft. 
long,  801  ft.  wide,  and  36  ft.  high.     It  is  very  tastefully  fitted  up.     The 


Route  8.1  WASHINGTON.  59 

yisitors'  galleries  are  reached  by  *  marble  stairways,  which  are  among 
the  most  striking  architectural  features  of  the  Capitol.  The  President's 
and  Vice-President's  Rooms,  the  Senators'  Retiring-Room,  the  Reception- 
Room,  and  the  Senate  Post-Otfice,  are  beautiful  chambers.  In  the  Vice- 
President's  Room  hangs  Rembrandt  Peale's  great  portrait  of  Washing- 
ton. The  Marble  Room  is  particularly  chaste  and  rich  in  its  decora- 
tions ;  senators  alone  have  the  privilege  of  allowing  visitors  to  enter  it. 
In  the  basement  of  the  Senate  Extension  are  committee- rooms,  richly 
frescoed  and  furnished,  and  the  corridors  are  exquisitely  painted. — The 
Supreme  Court-Room  (formerly  the  Senate-Chamber)  is  reached  by  the 
corridor  leading  N.  from  the  Rotunda.  It  is  a  semicircular  apartment, 
75  ft.  long  and  45  ft.  high,  decorated  with  rich  Ionic  columns  of  Poto- 
mac marble,  and  with  busts  of  the  fo  inner  Chief -Justices.  Visitors  are 
admitted  during  the  sessions  of  the  Coux^t  (October  to  May,  12  to  4  p.  m.). 
Underneath  the  room  is  the  apartment  formerly  occupied  by  the  Court 
and  now  devoted  to  the  Law  Library  (100,000  volumes). — The  Library 
of  Congress  is  reached  by  the  corridor  from  the  W.  door  of  the  Rotunda. 
It  occupies  the  entire  W.  projection  of  the  Capitol;  the  main  room  is  91 
ft.  long  and  34  ft.  wide,  ceiled  with  iron,  and  fitted  up  with  fire-proof 
eases.  The  Library  was  founded  in  1800;  was  burned  by  the  British 
in  1814;  was  again  partially  burned  in  1851;  and  went  into  its  present 
rooms  in  1853.  The  collection,  which  is  the  largest  in  the  United  States, 
now  numbers  more  than  650,000  volumes,  exclusive  of  pamphlets,  and 
is  increasing  at  the  rate  of  10,000  or  15,000  volumes  a  year.  A  sepa- 
rate building  to  cost  $6,000,000  is  being  built  on  the  square  facing  the 
E.  side  of  the  Capitol.  It  is  in  the  style  of  the  Italian  renaissance,  de- 
signed by  J.  L.  Smithmeyer.  Accommodations  for  8,000,000  books 
have  been  arranged  for.  AH  copyright  books  are,  by  law,  required  to 
be  deposited  in  this  library,  and  the  representation  of  American  publi- 
cations is  by  far  the  most  complete  in  the  country.  Books  may  be  read 
in  the  library  by  visitors,  but  not  taken  away  (open  from  9  A.  M.  to  4 
p.  M.). — The  lighting,  heating,  and  ventilating  apparatus  of  the  House 
and  Senate-Chambers  are  worthy  of  notice.  The  total  cost  of  the  Capi- 
tol was  $13,000,000. 

The  site  of  the  Capitol  was  located  in  1791;  the  corner-stone  was  laid  in 
Sept.,  1793,  by  Washington.  The  wings  were  burned  by  the  British  in  1814.  The 
building  was  finished  in  1827.  Mr.  Walter's  design  for  its  extension  was  com- 
menced in  1851,  and  finished  in  1865,  with  the  completion  of  the  Dome. 

From  the  W.  entrance  of  the  Capitol  Grounds,  Pennsylvania  Ave. 
leads  in  IJ  mile  to  the  *U,  S.  Treasury  (cor.  15th  St.),  a  magnifi- 
cent building  in  the  Ionic  style,  468  ft.  long  and  264  ft.  wide,  3  stories 
high  above  the  basement,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $6,000,000.  The  E. 
front  has  an  Ionic  colonnade  342  ft.  long,  modeled  after  that  of  the  Tem- 
ple of  Minerva  at  Athens.  This  front  is  of  Virginia  freestone ;  the  rest 
of  the  building  is  of  Dix  Island  granite.  The  W.  front  has  side  porti- 
coes, and  a  grand  central  entrance  with  8  monolithic  columns  of  enor- 
mous size.  The  N.  and  S.  fronts  are  ahke  and  are  adorned  Avith  state- 
ly porticoes.  The  building  contains  about  200  rooms,  of  which  the 
finest  is  the  Cash-Room^  extending  through  2  stories,  and  lined  through- 


60  WASHINGTON.  [Boute  8. 

out  with  rich  marbles.  The  Gold-Room^  in  which  there  are  raany 
millions  of  dollars  in  gold  coin,  may  be  seen  by  permit  from  the 
Treasm-er.  The  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing,  cor.  14th  and  B 
Sts.,  S.  W.,  near  the  Washington  Momunent,  was  completed  in  1880, 
and  is  a  branch  of  the  Treasury  Department.  All  the  notes,  bonds,  etc., 
of  the  Government  are  printed  here,  and  it  is  a  place  of  much  interest 
to  visitors.     The  building  is  open  to  visitors  from  9  a.  m.  to  2  p.  M. 

Just  W.  of  the  Treasury  is  the  *  Executive  Mansion  (usually 
called  the  "White  House").  It  is  of  freestone,  painted  white,  170  ft. 
long  and  86  ft.  deep,  two  stories  high,  with  a  portico  on  the  N.  side 
(main  entrance)  supported  by  8  Ionic  columns,  and  a  semicircular  col- 
onnade on  the  S.  side  of  6  Ionic  columns.  The  corner-stoue  was  laid 
in  1792  ;  the  building  was  first  occupied  by  President  Adams  in  1800  ; 
burned  by  the  British  in  1814;  and  restored  and  reoccupied  in  1818. 
The  grounds  lie  between  15th  and  17th  Sts.,  and  extend  to  the  Poto- 
mac, comprising  about  75  acres,  of  which  20  are  inclosed  as  the  Presi- 
dent's private  grounds,  are  handsomely  laid  out,  and  contain  a  fountain 
and  extensive  conservatories.  The  East  Room  (open  daily  from  10 
A.  M.  to  3  p.  M.)  is  the  grand  parlor  of  the  President ;  it  is  a  fine  cham- 
ber 80  ft.  long,  40  wide,  and  20  high,  richly  decorated  and  furnished. 
The  Blue,  Red,  and  Green  Rooms  are  on  the  same  floor,  and  are  elegant 
in  their  appointments.  The  Executive  Office  and  the  Cabinet-Room  are 
on  the  2d  floor,  as  are  also  the  private  apartments  of  the  family.  N.  of 
the  White  House  is  liafayette  Square,  the  finest  public  park  in  the 
city,  laid  out  in  winding  paths  and  filled  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  In 
the  center  is  Clark  Mills's  *  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Gen.  Jackson, 
remarkable  for  its  delicate  balancing,  which  was  accomplished  by  mak- 
ing the  flanks  and  tail  of  the  horse  of  solid  metal.  On  the  S.  E,  cor.  is 
the  Lafayette  Monument,  with  statues  of  Lafayette,  Rochambeau,  d'Es- ' 
taing,  De  Grasse,  and  Duportail.  It  was  erected  in  1890,  and  was  exe- 
cuted by  the  French  sculptors  Antoine  Falguiere  and  Antonin  Mercie. 

Just  W.  of  the  White  House  (fronting  on  Executive  Ave.  cor.  17th 
St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.)  is  the  vast  and  ornate  building  of  the  *  State, 
War,  and  IVavy  Departments,  of  granite,  in  the  Roman  Doric 
style,  567  ft.  long  and  342  ft.  wide,  4  stories  high,  with  lofty  Mansard- 
roof.  It  has  4  facades,  those  on  the  N.  and  S.  and  those  on  the  E. 
and  W.  respectively  being  counterparts.  The  State  Department  occu- 
pies the  S.  portion  of  the  building ;  and  the  Hall  of  the  Secretary  of 
State,  the  Embassadors'  Saloon,  and  the  Library  (30,000  volumes)  are 
splendid  rooms.  (Open  to  visitors  from  10  a.  m.  to  2  p,  m.)  The  War 
and  Xavy  Departments  occupy  the  N.  and  E.  wings  respectively  of  the 
building  fronting  the  Executive  Mansion.  The  War  Department  is  open 
from  9  A.  M.  to  2  p.  m.,  and  the  Navy  Department  from  9  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m. 

The  oflice  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  better  known  as  the 
*  Patent-Office,  is  a  grand  Doric  building  of  marble,  freestone,  and 
granite,  occupying  2  blocks  in  the  central  portion  of  the  city  (between 
7th  and  9th  and  F  and  G  Sts.),  453  ft.  long  and  331  ft.  wide,  including 
porticoes,  and  75  ft.  high.  The  F  St.  portico  (main  entrance)  is  reached 
by  broad  granite  steps,  and  consists  of  16  Doric  columns  of  immense 


Route  8.]  WASHmGTON-.  61 

size,  upholding  a  classic  pediment.  The  interior  contains  many  noble 
rooms.  The  Model-Room  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.)  occupies  the 
entire  upper  floor  of  the  edifice,  forming  4  large  halls  or  chambers  un- 
equaled  for  extent  and  beauty  on  the  continent.  The  total  length  of 
this  floor  is  1,350  ft.,  or  rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile ;  and  it 
is  filled  with  cases  containing  immense  numbers  of  models  representing 
every  department  of  mechanical  art.  The  frescoes  on  the  ceiling  of 
the  S.  Hall  are  much  admired.  On  the  second  or  main  floor  are  the 
offices  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  of  the  Indian  Bureau,  of  the 
General  Land-Office,  and  of  the  Commissioner  of  Patents. 

The  Bureau  of  Education,  cor.  8th  and  G  Sts.,  opposite  the 
Interior  Depai^tment,  contains  a  library  of  18,000  bound  volumes,  in- 
cluding all  important  pedagogical  works  and  100,000  pamphlets.  The 
special  function  of  this  bureau  is  to  increase  the  enlightened  directive 
power  of  the  people  with  regard  to  their  schools,  by  means  of  annual  and 
special  reports,  the  materials  fcr  which  are  collected  by  extensive  corre- 
spondence with  the  officials  in  charge  of  the  State,  city,  and  county  pub- 
lic-school systems,  etc. 

The  *  Post-Office  Department,  on  F  St.  opposite  the  Patent-Of- 
fice, is  an  imposing  edifice  of  white  marble  in  the  Italian  or  modified 
Corinthian  style,  300  ft.  long,  204  ft.  wide,  and  3  stories  high,  erected  at 
a  cost  of  $1,700,000.  In  the  center  of  the  8th  St.  front  is  a  bit  of 
sculpture  representing  the  railroad  and  the  telegraph.  The  Postmaster- 
General's  Office  is  in  the  2d  story  on  the  S.  side.  The  Read-Letter  Office 
(2d  story  N.  side)  contains  some  curious  objects. 

The  *  Pension  Building,  located  in  the  square  bounded  by 
F,  G,  4th  and  5th  Sts.,  occupies  80,000  square  ft.,  and  borders  on 
Judiciary  Square.  It  is  400  by  200  ft.,  and  the  walls  are  75  ft.  high. 
The  architecture  is  Renaissance.  Among  the  most  notable  features  of 
the  exterior  decoration  are  the  terra-cotta  cornices  with  medallions  and 
ornaments,  and  the  band  of  sculpture  in  terra-cotta  on  the  level  of  the 
second  floor,  3  ft.  in  height,  by  1,200  feet  in  length,  i*epresenting  an 
army  in  campaign,  assisted  by  sailors  and  boats  of  the  navy. 

the  *  Department  of  Agriculture  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  2 
p.  M.)  occupies  a  spacious  brick  and  brown-stone  building  in  the  Renais- 
sance style,  situated  on  the  Mall  at  the  foot  of  13th  St.  It  contains  a 
library,  a  museum,  an  herbarium  (with  25,000  varieties  of  plants),  and 
extensive  greenhouses.  The  grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out,  and  con- 
tain a  great  variety  of  trees  and  plants.  The  Flower- Gardens  (in  front 
of  the  main  building)  are  adorned  with  statuary,  and  when  in  bloom 
present  a  meraox'able  sight. — A  short  distance  E.  on  the  Mall  is  the 
*  Smithsonian  Institution,  a  beautiful  red  sandstone  building  in 
the  Romanesque  style,  447  by  150  ft.,  with  9  towers  ranging  from  75 
to  150  ft.  in  height  (reached  from  Penn.  Ave.  via  7th  St.).  This  noble 
institution  was  founded  by  James  Smithson,  an  Englishman,  "  for  the 
increase  and  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  men."  The  building  was 
commenced  in  1847  and  completed  soon  after.  It  contains  a  museum 
of  natural  histoi-y  with  numerous  specimens,  and  ethnolo^ncal  collec- 
tions, with  many  curiosities,     S.  E.  of  the  main  building  is  the  National 


62  WASHIJSTGTON.  {Route  8. 

Museum,  which  contains  the  Centennial  exhibits  of,  and  donations  of 
foreign  Governments  to,  the  United  States,  the  Washington  relics,  the 
Grant  swords,  etc.,  and  the  collections  of  minerals,  etc.  The  grounds 
attached  to  the  Institution  (52|^  acres)  are  beautifully  laid  out.  Visitors 
are  admitted  from  9  a.  m.  to  4.80  p.  m. — Also  on  the  Mall,  E.  of  the 
Smithsonian  and  just  W.  of  the  Capitol  grounds,  are  the  *  Botanical 
Gardens,  which  consist  chiefly  of  a  series  of  conservatories  tilled  with 
rare  and  curious  plants,  flowers,  and  fruits  (free  to  visitors  from  9  a.  m. 
to  6  p.  M.).  N.  of  the  conservatory  stands  the  Bartholdi  Fountain,  so 
much  admired  at  the  Centennial  Exhibition.  The  Army  Medical 
Museum  and  Library,  also  on  the  Mall,  immediately  adjoining  the 
National  Museum,  occupies  the  building  at  the  N.  W.  of  B  and  Yth  Sts. 
S.  W.  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m.).  This  museum  was  founded  and  a 
large  portion  of  the  medical  and  surgical  specimens  collected  during  the 
war  of  the  rebellion.  Since  the  close  of  the  war  the  officers  in  charge 
have  continued  to  collect  specimens  from  the  medical  officers  of  the 
army  at  mihtary  posts,  and  they  have  received  a  number  from  physi- 
cians engaged  in  private  practice.  Opposite  the  Army  Medical  Museum, 
across  'Zth  St.,  is  the  Commission  of  Fish  and  Fisheries,  with 
its  biological  laboratory,  extensive  aquaria  for  the  study  and  display  of 
salt  and  fresh  water  fishes,  and  also  one  of  the  principal  shad-hatching 
stations. 

The*U.  S.  Naval  Observatory  (lat.  38°  53'  38.8",  Ion.  IT  3' 
I'B"  W.  from  Greenwich)  occupies  a  commanding  site  on  the  bank  of 
the  Potomac  at  the  foot  of  24th  St.,  with  handsome  grounds  embracing 
19  acres.  It  was  founded  in  1842,  and  is  now  one  of  the  foremost  in- 
stitutions of  the  kind  in  the  world.  It  possesses  many  fine  instru- 
ments (including  a  26-inch  equatorial  telescope),  and  a  good  library 
of  astronomical  works.  Visitors  are  admitted  at  all  hours,  and  are 
allowed  to  inspect  the  telescope  and  other  instruments  when  they  are 
not  in  use.  It  will  be  i-emoved  to  a  new  observatory  overlooking  Rock 
Creek,  N.  of  Georgetown,  during  the  present  year. 

The  Weather  •Bureau  is  on  the  cor.  M  and  24th  Sts.  X,  W.  It  has 
a  library  of  12,000  volumes,  and  the  instrument  and  indication  rooms 
are  of  interest  to  visitors.  The  U.  8.  Arsenal  is  located  amid  pleasant 
grounds  on  Greenleaf's  Point,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Potomac  and  the 
Eastern  Branch  (reached  by  4^  St.).  The  buildings  contain  vast  stores 
of  arms  and  ammunition.  The  *  Navy- Yard  is  situated  on  the  East- 
ern Branch,  about  1;^  mile  S.  E.  of  the  Capitol  (reached  by  Pennsylvania 
Ave.  cars).  It  has  an  area  of  2Y  acres,  inclosed  by  a  substantial  brick 
wall,  within  which,  besides  officers'  quarters,  are  vast  foundries  and 
shops,  2  ship-houses,  and  an  armory.  The  Naval  Museum  (open  from 
9  A.  M.  to  4  p.  m.)  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  arms,  ammuni- 
tions, and  relics.  Other  interesting  features  are  the  Experimental  Bat- 
tery and  the  fleet.  Two  blocks  N.  of  the  Navy-Yard  are  the  Marine 
Barracks,  the  headquarters  of  the  U.  S.  Marine  Corps ;  and  near  by  is 
the  Marine  Hospital,  for  sick  and  disabled  sailors. 

Noteworthy  buildings  not  belonging  to  the  Government  are  the 
Baltimore  Sun  building,  on  F  St. ;  the  Court-House  (on  4^  St.  near  Lou- 


Eoute  8.]  WASHENG-TON-.  63 

isiana  Ave.) ;  the  Masonic  Temple  (cor.  F  and  9th  Sts.) ;  Odd-Fellows' 
Hcdl  (in  '7th  St.  between  D  and  E  Sts.) ;  the  spacious  Washington  Mar- 
ket, fronting  Pennsylvania  Ave.  between  '7th  and  9th  Sts. ;  and  the 
churches  and  hotels  ah-eady  enumerated  under  their  respective  heads. 
Columbian  Universitif  has  its  main  building  cor.  H  and  15th  Sts.  N.  W. 
It  was  incoi'porated  as  a  college  in  1821  and  as  a  university  in  1873. 
It  has  collegiate,  law,  and  medical  departments.  On  the  cor.  H  St.  and 
Madison  Place  is  the  Cosmos  Club,  where  "Dolly"  Madison  held  court 
and  dispensed  her  gracious  hospitality  after  her  husband's  death,  and 
across  Lafayette  Square  on  the  cor.  1 7th  St.  is  the  Metropolitan  Club, 
with  its  fine  home.  The  large  hotels  The  Shoreham  and  Normandie  are 
in  15th  St.,  while  in  the  vicinity  are  the  Arlington,  Arno,  and  other 
hotels. 

The  *  Corcoran  Art-Gallery  is  a  brick  and  brown-stone  build- 
ing in  the  Renaissance  style  near  the  White  House  (cor.  Pennsylvania 
Ave,  and  17th  St.).  It  was  founded  by  the  late  William  W.  Corco- 
ran, the  banker,  who  deeded  it  to  the  people,  and  presented  it  Avith  his 
private  art  collection  and  an  endowment  fund  of  $900,000.  It  con- 
tains nearly  200  paintings,  most  of  them  masterpieces ;  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  casts,  ^nd  among  the  marble  statuary  "  The  Greek  Slave,"  by 
Powers,  and  "  The  Dying  Xapoleon,"  by  Vela ;  many  rich  bronzes,  nota- 
bly those  by  Barye ;  and  other  interesting  art  specimens.  Another 
noble  institution,  foimded  and  liberally  endowed  by  Mr.  Corcoran,  is  the 
Louise  Home  (between  15th  and  16th  Sts.  on  Massachusetts  Ave.),  a 
handsome  building  erected  at  a  cost  of  $200,000,  designed  to  furnish  a 
home  to  impoverished  elderly  ladies  of  education  and  good  family. 

The  Washington  Monument,  which  is  the  loftiest  in  the  world, 
except  the  Eitfel  Tower,  stands  on  the  Mall  near  14th  St.,  and  was  dedi- 
cated with  appropriate  ceremonies  on  Washington's  birthday,  1885.  Its 
design  contemplated,  besides  a  spacious  "  Temple,"  or  base,  a  shaft  600 
ft.  high ;  but  after  $230,000  had  been  expended  in  building  it  to  a 
height  of  174  ft.,  funds  gave  out  and  the  work  was  suspended.  In  1876 
Congress  made  an  appropriation  for  the  completion  of  the  monument 
on  a  new  plan  to  be  chosen  by  experts.  Rapid  progress  was  then  made 
on  it.  It  is  555  ft.  high.  The  top  is  reached  by  an  interior  stairway 
and  also  by  an  elevator,  which  runs  every  half -hour  from  9  a.  m.  to  5 
p.  M.  on  week-days.  Clark  Mills's  colossal  equestrian  *  Statue  of  Wash- 
ington stands  in  ^Vashington  Circle,  at  the  intersection  of  Pennsylvania 
and  New  Hampshire  Aves.  H.  K.  Brown's  colossal  equestrian  *  Statue 
of  General  Scott  stands  at  the  intersection  of  Massachusetts  and  Rhode 
Island  Aves.  with  16th  St.  The  same  artist's  bronze  equestrian  statue 
of  General  Nathanael  Greene  stands  at  the  intersection  of  Maryland  and 
Massachusetts  Aves.  with  5th  St.  jST.  E.  Ball's  colossal  bronze  *  Statue 
of  Lincoln  stands  in  Lincoln  Park  (in  the  E.  part  of  the  city) ;  it  was 
erected  by  contributions  of  colored  people.  Another  statue  "of  Lincoln, 
by  Lot  Flannery,  stands  in  Judiciary  Square,  on  4^  St.  On  Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.  near  9lh  St.  is  a  bronze  statue  of  General  Rcnolins,  by  J. 
Bailey,  and  at  10th  St.  is  a  marble  statue  cf  Benjamin  Franklin.  Vin- 
nie  Ream's  statue  of  Admhxd  Farragut   stands  in  Farragut  Square 


64  WASHESTGTON.  [Route  8. 

(cor.  Connecticut  Ave.  and  I  St.),  and  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's  fine  equestrian 
statue  of  General  Thomas  stands  in  a  circle  at  the  intersection  of  14th 
St.  with  Massachusetts  and  Vermont  Aves.,  and  in  Luther  Place  near 
Thomas  Circle  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Martin  Luther.  It  is  a  replica  of 
the  celebrated  figure  of  the  Luther  Memorial  Group,  by  Reitschel,  at 
Worms,  Germany.  At  the  Maryland  Ave.  entrance  to  Capitol  Park  is 
the  bronze  statue  of  President  Garfield^  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  erected  by 
his  comrades  of  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland  in  1887.  The  pedestal 
was  the  gift  of  Congress,  and  has  bronze  recumbent  figures  of  the  stu- 
dent, warrior,  and  statesman.  In  Dupont  Circle  is  a  heroic  bronze  statue 
of  Admired  Samuel  F.  Dupont.,  by  Launt  Thompson,  which  was  erected 
in  1884  at  a  cost  of  $14,000.  A  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Genered 
McPherson  stands  at  the  intersection  of  Vermont  Ave.  and  15th  St. 
The  Naval  Monument.,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  officers  and  sea- 
men and  marines  who  fell  in  the  civil  war,  stands  in  the  middle  of 
Pennsylvania  Ave.,  near  the  W.  entrance  to  the  Capitol  Grounds. 
In  the  Capitol  Grounds  is  a  fine  statue  of  Chief -Justice  Marshall.,  by 
Story. 

The  *  Soldiers'  Home  (for  disabled  soldiers  of  -the  regular  army) 
occupies  an  elevated  plateau  3  miles  N.  of  the  Capitol  (reached  by  1i\x 
St.  cable-cars  or  by  a  charming  drive,  also  by  electric  road).  It  consists 
of  several  spacious  marble  buildings  in  the  Norman  style,  surrounded 
by  a  beautiful  park  of  500  acres.  It  has  been  the  custom  of  several 
Presidents  to  occupy  one  of  the  smaller  buildings  of  the  Home  as  a 
summer  retreat,  and  here  President  Lincoln  passed  some  of  the  last 
hours  of  his  eventful  term.  N.  of  the  Home  is  a  Nationcd  Cemetery., 
in  which  5,424  soldiers  are  buried.  At  the  terminus  of  the  electric  road 
is  the  Catholic  University  of  America,  which,  founded  in  1889, 
is  intended  as  an  institution  for  post-graduate  work.  At  present  only  a 
divinity  faculty  has  been  established,  but  in  time  faculties  for  philoso- 
phy, law,  medicine,  social  and  political  science,  and  the  natural  sciences 
will  be  added.  A  building  of  Tennessee  blue  granite,  ornamented  with 
white  stone  handsomely  carved,  has  already  been  erected.  Its  chapel, 
said  to  be  "  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  America,"  deserves  a  visit,  and 
its  fine  stained  windows,  with  designs  of  sacred  interest,  were  made  in 
Munich.  On  the  Vth  St.  road  just  beyond  the  city  limits  is  the  How- 
ard University,  founded  in  1864  for  the  education  of  youth  "with- 
out regard  to  sex  or  color,"  but  patronized  almost  exclusively  by  negroes 
(700  students).  The  University  building  is  a  brick  structure,  painted 
white,  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  surmounted  by  a  tower,  from 
which  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs.  The  Columbia 
Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  National  Deaf- 
Mute  College  is  in  the  park  called  Kendnll  Green,  just  beyond  the 
northeastern  boundary  of  the  city  (reached  by  the  New  York  Ave.  cars). 
This  college  is  the  only  one  in  the  world  for  deaf-mutes.  Within  the 
grounds  is  the  beautiful  bronze  group  of  Gallaudet  teaching  a  deaf 
child,  by  Daniel  C.  French.  The  Government  Asylum  for  the 
Insane  (of  the  Army,  Navy,  and  District  of  Cokimbia)  occupies  a  lofty 
eminence  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Anacostia  (reached  by  crossing  the 


Route  8.1  washixCtTon.  65 

Navy- Yard  bridge  and  ascending  the  heights  beyond  Uniontown).  The 
building  is  in  the  Collegiate-Gothic  style,  711  ft.  long,  and  is  surrounded 
by  a  park  of  419  acres,  from  which  thei'e  are  noble  views.  (Admittance 
on  Wednesday  from  2  to  6  p.  m.)  In  the  *Coii.gressio3ial  Cemetery 
(1  mile  E.  of  the  Capitol  near  the  Eastern  Branch)  are  the  graves  of 
Congressmen  who  have  died  during  their  term  of  service.  Its  situation 
is  high,  and  it  contains  some  noteworthy  monuments.  Glenivood  is  a 
pleasant  niral  cemetery  about  a  mile  X.  of  the  Capitol.  The  celebrated 
lyoug  Bridge  crosses  the  Potomac  into  Virginia  from  foot  of  14th  St. 
It  is  a  shabby  structure  about  a  mile  long. 

*  Georgetown,  now  called  West  Washington,  is  distant  but  2 
miles  from  the  Capitol,  and  divided  only  by  Rock  Creek  from  Washing- 
ton City,  .with  which  it  is  connected  by  4  bridges  and  2  lines  of  horse- 
cars.  The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  range  of  hills  which  com- 
mand a  view  unsurpassed  in  the  Potomac  Valley.  It  is  the  port  of 
entry  of  the  District,  and  a  line  of  steamships  plies  between  it  and  New 
York.  One  of  the  chief  points  of  interest  is  Georgetown  University,  at 
the  W.  end  of  the  town.  This  is  an  old  institution  of  learning  (founded 
in  1789,  and  incorporated  as  a  university  in  1815),  and  the  most  famous 
belonging  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  in  the  United  States.  It  is 
under  the  control  of  the  Jesuits.  The  buildings  are  spacious,  and  con- 
tain a  library  of  35,000  volumes,  among  which  are  some  extremely  rare 
and  curious  books,  some  beautifully  illuminated  missals,  and  some  rare 
old  MSS. ;  an  astronomical  observatory,  and  a  museum  of  natural  his- 
tory. In  the  rear  of  the  college  is  a  picturesque  rural  serpentine  walk, 
commanding  fine  views.  The  Convent  of  the  Visitatum  (in  Fayette  St. 
near  the  College)  was  founded  in  1799,  and  is  the  oldest  house  of  the 
order  in  America.  It  consists  of  several  fine  buildings  in  a  park  of  40 
acres.  Visitors  admitted  between  11  a.  m.  and  2  p.  m.  The  Aqueduct, 
by  which  the  waters  of  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  Canal  are  carried  across 
the  Potomac,  will  repay  inspection.  It  is  1,446  ft.  long  and  36  ft.  high, 
with  9  granite  piers,  and  cost  $2,000,000.  There  is  a  carriage-way 
above  the  water-course.  *  Oak  Hill  Cemetery,  on  the  N.  E.  slopes 
of  the  Heights,  though  containing  but  30  acres,  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  country.  It  contains  an  elegant  Gothic  chapel  with 
stained-glass  windows  and  completely  overgrown  with  ivy,  the  massive 
marble  mausoleum  of  W.  W.  Corcoran,  and  several  notable  monuments. 
Many  eminent  men  are  buried  here,  among  them  Secretary  Edwin  M. 
Stanton  and  Chief-Justice  Salmon  P.  Chase. 

The  grounds  of  the  Zoological  Park  lie  on  both  sides  of  Rock 
Creek,  just  N.  of  Woodley  Lane  in  the  suburbs.  They  comprise  166 
acres,  which  were  purchased  by  act  of  Congress  in  1889,  at  a  cost  of 
nearly  $200,000.  The  park  is  inclosed,  and  several  structures  suitable 
for  the  use  of  the  animals  have  been  erected.  A  number  of  North 
American  animals  have  been  placed  here,  and  an  excellent  nucleus 
started  for  a  national  zoological  garden.  A  number  of  the  larger  Rocky 
Mountain  animals  have  been  captured  in  the  Yellowstone  National  Park 
and  are  now  in  the  collection.  The  Rock  Creek  Park,  comprising  a 
tract  of  land  of  2,000  acres,  extending  along  both  sides  of  Rock  Creek, 
5 


Q6  WASHmGTON".  [Route  8. 

adjoins  the  Zoological  Park.  It  was  purchased  by  Congress  in  1 890, 
and  will  be  beautified  with  drives,  walks,  and  similar  features  of  land- 
scape gardening. 

Arlington  House,  once  the  residence  of  George  Washington 
Parke  Custis,  the  last  survivor  but  one  of  the  Washington  family,  and 
later  of  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee,  occupies  a  commanding  position  on  the 
Virginia  side  of  the  Potomac,  nearly  opposite  Georgetown  (reached 
from  Georgetown  via  Aqueduct  Bridge).  It  stands  more  than  200  ft. 
above  tide-water,  and  the  view  from  the  portico  is  among  the  best  this 
part  of  the  river  affords.  The  lov/er  rooms  of  the  mansion  are  open  to 
the  public,  but  contain  nothing  of  interest,  the  collection  of  pictures  and 
relics  having  been  removed.  In  the  office  of  the  Superintendent  a  reg- 
ister is  kept  for  visitors,  and  a  record  of  all  who  are  buried  in  the  JVa- 
tional  Cemeteries  now  located  on  the  place.  In  front  of  the  mansion  is 
the  grave  of  General  Philip  H.  Sheridan.  The  graves  of  the  white  sol- 
diers are  W.  of  the  house;  those  of  the  colored  troops  and  refugees 
about  ^  mile  N.     There  are  about  15,000  in  all. 

Alexandria  is  situated  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Potomac  ^  m.  below 
Washington  (reached  by  railroad,  or  by  ferry-boats  hourly  from  'Zth  St. 
wharf).  It  is  a  quaint  old  town,  dating  from  1'748,  and  is  intimately 
associated  with  the  life  and  name  of  Washington,  In  Christ  Church 
(cor.  Washington  and  Cameron  Sts.)  the  pew  in  which  he  sat  (No.  59)  is 
an  object  of  much  interest.  Pew  No.  46  was  occupied  by  Robert  E. 
Lee  when  he  resided  at  Arlington  before  the  civil  war.  The  Museum, 
Court-House,  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  and  Theologicai  Seminary  are  among 
the  prominent  buildings.  On  the  outskirts  of  the  city  is  a  National 
Cemetery^  in  which  nearly  4,000  soldiers  are  buried. 

*  Mount  Vernon  is  15  m.  below  Washington,  on  the  Virginia  side 
of  the  Potomac,  and  is  reached  by  steamers  which  leave  the  Yth  St. 
wharf  daily  at  10  a.  m.  (fare  for  the  round  trip,  including  admission  to 
the  grounds,  $1.00).  The  sail  down  the  river  is  delightful,  and  affords 
excellent  views  of  the  country  around  Washington.  Mount  Vernon, 
then  known  as  the  "  Hunting  Creek  estate,"  was  bequeathed  by  Augus- 
tine Washington,  who  died  in  1743,  to  Lawrence  Washington.  The 
latter  named  it  after  Admiral  Vernon,  under  whom  he  had  served  in  the 
Spanish  wars.  George  Washington  inherited  the  estate  in  1*752.  The 
central  part  of  the  mansion,  which  is  of  wood,  was  built  by  Lawrence, 
and  the  wings  by  George  Washington.  It  contains  many  interesting 
historical  relics,  among  which  are  the  key  of  the  Bastile,  presented  by 
Lafayette,  portions  of  the  military  and  personal  furniture  of  Washing- 
ton, portraits,  and  Rembrandt  Peale's  painting  of  "Washington  before 
Yorktown."  The  Tomb  of  Washington  stands  in  a  retired  situation  near 
the  mansion.  It  is  a  plain  but  solid  brick  structure,  with  an  iron  gate, 
through  the  bars  of  which  may  be  seen  the  marble  sarcophagi  contain- 
ing the  remains  of  George  and  Martha  Washington.  The  Mount  Ver- 
non domain  (including  the  mansion  and  6  acres),  which  had  remained 
since  the  death  of  Washington  in  the  possession  of  his  descendants, 
was  purchased  in  1856  for  the  sum  of  $200,000,  raised  by  subscription, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  "  Ladies' Mount  Vernon  Association,"  aided 


Route  P.]  THE    HUDSON   RIVEE.  67 

by  the  efforts  of  Edward  Everett.     It  is,  therefore,  and  will  continue  to 
be,  the  property  of  the  nation. 

Itinerarieso 

The  following  series  of  excursions  has  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the 
visitor  can  readily  spend  more  time  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  atten- 
tion. Travelers  by  the  Pennsylvania  or  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  Rs.  can  readily 
obtain  the  local  guide-books  of  Washington  furnished  by  these  lines. 

1.  Take  cars  on  Pennsylvania  Ave.  to  Navy- Yard ;  same  cars  back 
to  Capitol.  During  the  sessions  the  Supreme  Court  and  both  Houses  of 
Congress  open  at  noon.  Visit  the  Botanical  Gardens  at  the  foot  of  the 
Capitol  Grounds,  seeing  the  statue  of  Garfield  and  the  Peace  Monument 
on  the  way. 

2.  Visit  the  Washington  Monument  (foot  of  13th  St.),  Bureau  of 
Engraving  and  Printing,  Agricultural  Department,  Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion, U.  S.  National  Museum,  and  Fish  Commission ;  these  are  all  with- 
in walking  distance  of  each  other.  The  National  Museum  contains  a 
lunch-room. 

-3.  Visit  the  Treasury  Department,  State,  War,  and  Navy  Depart- 
ments, the  White  House,  and  Corcoran  Art-Gallery.  A  drive  to  the 
Zoological  Park  by  way  of  Connecticut  Ave.  would  pass  the  Church 
of  the  Covenant,  the  English  Legation,  and  the  statues  of  Admirals 
Farragut  and  Dupont. 

4.  Take  F  St.  cars  to  Patent-Ojffice,  Dead-Letter  Office,  Bureau  of 
Education.  Walk  two  squares  E.  on  F  St.  to  Pension-Office.  These 
departments  close  at  2  p.  m.,  and  the  Soldiers'  Home  could  be  visited  in 
the  afternoon.     It  is  reached  by  the  electric  and  cable  cars. 

5.  Take  Pennsylvania  Ave.  cars  to  Yth  St. ;  transfer  to  Yth  St.  cable- 
cars  to  wharf,  where  take  steamer  at  10  a.  m.  for  Mount  Vernon.  On 
return  trip  stop  at  Alexandria ;  thence  back  to  the  city  by  either  ferry- 
boat or  train. 

6.  Visit  Arlington,  best  reached  by  carriage.  The  Weather  Bureau, 
Naval  Observatory,  and  Fort  Myer  can  be  visited  on  the  way. 

9.  The  Hudson  River. 

The  trip  up  the  Hudson  may  be  made  either  by  railroad  or  steamboat,  the 
latter  affording  the  better  opportunity  for  viewing  the  scenery  ;  but  the  boats 
run  only  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months".  The  day  boats  leave  the 
pier  at  the  foot  of  Vestry  St.  at  8.45  a.  m.,  and  from  W.  22d  St.  15  minutes  later, 
reaching  Albany  at  6  p.  m.  The  niglit  boats  start  from  the  foot  of  Canal  St. 
at  6  p.  M.,  reaching  Albany  at  6  o'clock  the  next  morning.  The  trip  maybe 
made  to  equal  advantage  by  the  Troy  boats,  which  start  from  the  foot  of  Chris- 
topher St.  at  the  same  hours.  The  steamer  ''Mary  PowelV  leaves  the  pier  foot 
of  Desbrosses  St.  daily  at  3.15  p.  m.,  and  runs  to  Rondout  and  Kingston.  A 
delightful  excursion  may  be  made  by  taking  the  morning  boat  to  West  Point, 
Cornwall,  and  Newburg,  and  returning  on  the  afternoon  boat  (fare  for  the  round 
trip,  %\).  The  New  York  Centi'al  &  Hudson  Kiver  K,  Ko  runs  along 
the  E.  bank  of  the  river  all  the  way  to  Albany  (143  miles),  and,  though  the  view 
from  the  cars  is  restricted  for  the  most  part  to  the  western  side  of  the  river,  the 
journey  is  nevertheless  a  most  attractive  one.    The  time  to  Albany  is  2f  to  4 


68  THE    HUDSON    EIYER.  [Route  9. 

hours.    The  West  Shore,  rurraing  to  Albany  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  and 

to  Buffalo,  is  also  a  popular  line  of  travel.    Time  to  Albany,  3  to  4  hours.    The 
Eorthern  E.  R.  of  New  Jerseij  also  follows  the  west  shore,  terminating  at  Nyack. 

The  trip  up  the  Hudson  River  (especially  by  steamer)  will  afford  the 
traveler  advantageous  views  of  some  of  the  most  picturesque  scenery  in 
America.  The  Hudson  has  been  compared  to  the  Rhine,  and  what  it 
lacks  in  crumbling  ruin  and  castle-crowned  steep  it  more  than  makes  up 
by  its  greater  variety  and  superior  breadth.  George  William  Curtis 
says  of  it :  "  The  Danube  has  in  part  glimpses  of  such  grandeur,  the 
Elbe  has  sometimes  such  delicately-penciled  effects,  but  no  European 
river  is  so  lordly  in  its  bearing,  none  flows  in  such  state  to  the  sea." 

The  first  few  miles  of  the  steamer's  course  afford  fine  views  of  the 
harbor  and  city,  of  the  Jersey  shore,  and  the  northern  suburbs,  includ- 
ing Fort  Washington.  Before  the  city  is  fairly  left  behind,  the  Pali- 
sades loom  up  on  the  left — a  series  of  grand  precipices  rising  in  many 
places  to  the  height  of  300  ft.,  and  stretching  in  unbroken  line  along 
the  river-bank  for  more  than  15  miles.  The  rock  is  trap,  columnar  in 
formation,  and  the  summit  is  thickly  wooded.  In  striking  contrast,  the 
right  bank  presents  a  continuous  succession  of  beautiful  villas  standing 
in  the  midst  of  picturesque  and  exquisitely  kept  grounds,  with  a  fre- 
quent sprinkling  of  villages  and  hamlets.  Above  Washington  Heights 
(on  the  E.  side)  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  enters  the  Hudson.  Monnt  St. 
Vincent  (10  miles  beyond)  is  the  seat  of  the  Convent  of  St.  Vincent, 
under  the  charge  of  the  "Ladies  of  the  Sacred  Heart."  The  build-' 
ings  present  a  striking  appearance  from  the  river,  and  among  them  is 
the  castellated  structure  known  as  "  Fonthill,"  formerly  the  residence 
of  Edwin  Forrest,  the  tragedian.  Yonkers  (lY  miles  on  the  E.  side  ; 
Getty  House^  Mmision  House)  has  a  population  of  32,083,  and  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  villa-crowned  slopes  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neperan  or 
Saw-Mill  River.  It  is  an  ancient  settlement,  and  was  the  home  of  the 
once  famous  Phillipse  family,  of  which  was  Mary  Phillipse,  Washing- 
ton's first  love.  The  Manor  House,  a  spacious  stone  edifice,  built  in  1682, 
is  now  the  City  Hall ;  and  near  by  is  Locust  Hill,  where  the  American 
troops  were  encamped  in  1781.  Pierrnont  (22  miles  on  the  W.  side)  is  at 
the  end  of  the  Palisades ;  it  takes  its  name  from  a  mile-long  pier  which 
runs  out  from  the  shore  to  deep  water ;  and  3  miles  S.  W.  is  the  old  town 
of  Tappan,  interesting  as  one  of  Washing-ton's  headquarters  during  the 
Revolution,  and  as  the  place  where  the  unfortunate  Major  Andre  was  im- 
prisoned and  executed.  The  house  occupied  by  Washington  is  still  shown, 
and  near  by  is  the  spot  where  Andre  was  executed  (Oct.  2,  1780).  At 
Piermont  begins  the  widening  out  of  the  river  into  the  broad  and  beauti- 
ful *  Tappan  Zee,  which  is  nearly  10  miles  long  and  4  miles  wid« 
at  the  widest  part.  On  the  E.  bank,  26  miles  from  New  York,  is  the 
village  of  Irvington^  named  in  honor  of  Washington  Irving,  whose  cot- 
tage of  Sunnyside  ("  Wolfert's  Roost")  is  close  by,  upon  the  margin 
of  the  river,  but  hidden  from  the  traveler's  view  by  the  dense  growth 
of  the  surrounding  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  cottage  is  a  quaint  and 
picturesque  structure,  and  the  E.  front  is  embowered  in  ivy,  the  earlier- 
slips  of  which  were  given  to  Irving  by  Sir  Walter  Scott,  at  Abbotsford, 


Route  9.]  THE    HUDSON    EIVEK.  69 

and  planted  by  Irving  himself.  In  the  vicinity  of  Irvington  are  many 
fine  residences,  the  most  conspicuous  of  which  is  Lyndehurst^  the  old 
Paulding  Manor ^  situated  on  a  high  promontory,  and  now  the  property 
of  Jay  Grould.  Just  above  is  *  Tarry  town,  which  has  many  attrac- 
tions, historic  as  well  as  scenic.  It  was  at  a  spot  now  marked  by  an  in- 
scription in  the  village  that  Andre  was  arrested,  and  Tarrytown  witnessed 
many  fights  between  guerrillas  during  the  Revolution.  It  takes  its  chief 
interest,  however,  from  its  association  with  Irving's  life  and  writings. 
Here  is  the  church  which  he  attended,  and  of  which  he  was  warden  at 
the  time  of  his  death  (Christ  Church) ;  here  he  is  buried  (in  the  grave- 
yard of  the  old  Dutch  Church,  the  oldest  religious  edifice  in  the  State), 
and  near  by  are  the  scenes  of  some  of  his  happiest  fancies,  including 
the  immortal  Sleepy  Hollow  and  the  bridge  rendered  classic  by  the 
legend  of  Ichabod  Crane.  Opposite  Tarrytown,  at  the  foot  and  on  the 
side  of  a  beautifully  wooded  i^ange  of  hills,  is  the  pretty  town  of  Nyack, 
a  popular  suburban  place,  with  many  handsome  villa  residences,  and  the 
terminus  of  the  Northern  R.  R.  of  N.  J.,  a  branch  of  the  Erie  R.  R, 

Sing  Sing  (32  miles)  is  on  the  E.  bank,  occupying  an  elevated  slope, 
and  makes  a  fine  appearance  from  the  river.  A  State  Prison  is  lo- 
cated here,  and  its  vast  stone  buildings  are  conspicuous  objects  from  the 
steamer  (the  railway  passes  beneath  them).  Many  fine  villas  crown  the 
heights  above  and  around  the  village,  looking  down  upon  the  Hudson, 
which  at  this  point  attains  its  greatest  breadth.  Four  miles  above,  on 
the  E.  side,  is  Croton  Pointy  a  prominent  headland  projecting  hito  the 
river.  Here  the  Croton  River  enters  the  Hudson,  and  6  miles  up  this 
stream  is  Croton  Lake,  which  supplies  the  metropolis  with  water.  The 
lake  is  formed  by  a  dam  250  ft.  long,  40  ft.  high,  and  YO  ft.  thick ;  and 
the  water  is  conveyed  to  New  York  by  the  famous  Croton  Aqueduct, 
which  is  over  40  miles  long,  with  16  tunnels  and  24  bridges.  Anoth- 
er aqueduct  of  much  greater  capacity  was  completed  in  1890.  The 
lake  may  be  reached  by  carriages  from  Sing  Sing,  or  from  Croton  or 
Croton  Falls  station  on  the  Harlem  R.  R.,  or  by  the  New  York  & 
Northern  R.  R.  Above  Croton  Point  is  Haverstraiv  Bay^  another  lake- 
like widening  of  the  river,  and  as  the  boat  enters  it  the  Highlands  be- 
gin to  loom  up  in  the  distance.  At  the  head  of  Haverstraw  Bay  are 
Stony  Point  (on  the  W.),  a  rocky  peninsula  on  which  are  a  lighthouse 
and  the  ruins  of  a  famous  Revolutionary  fort,  and  VerplancFs  Point  (on 
the  E.),  notable  as  the  spot  where  Henry  Hudson's  ship,  the  "  Half 
Moon,"  first  came  to  anchor  after  leaving  Yonkers.  Here  also  are  re- 
mains of  a  small  Revolutionary  fort.  Above,  on  the  E.  bank,  is  Peeks- 
kill  (43  miles  from  New  York),  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  on  the  Hud- 
son, at  the  mouth  of  the  Peek's  Kill  or  Annsville  Creek,  and  the  site 
of  the  State  camp  of  the  National  Guard ;  opposite  which  (reached  by 
ferry)  is  CaldweWs  Landing^  memorable  for  the  costly  but  futile  search 
after  the  treasure  which  the  famous  pirate.  Captain  Kidd,  was  supposed 
to  have  secreted  at  the  bottom  of  the  river  here.  At  this  point  the 
river  makes  a  sudden  turn  toward  the  W.,  which  is  called  "The  Race." 

We  have  now  reached  the  *  Highlands,  and  for  the  next  16  miles 
the  scenery  is  striking.    On  the  left  is  "^  Bunderherg  (Thunder  Mountain, 


70  THE    HUDSOI^   KIVEE.  ^Route  9. 

1,120  ft.  high),  and  at  its  base  a  broad  deep  stream  which,  a  short  distance 
above  its  mouth,  descends  to  the  river  in  a  beautiful  cascade.  On  the 
right  is  Anthonyh  Nose  (904  ft.  high),  a  rocky  promontory  whose  base 
is  penetrated  by  a  railway-tunnel  200  ft.  long.  Lying  in  the  river  near 
this  point  is  the  picturesque  lona  Island^  a  favorite  picnic  resort.  Just 
above  (on  the  right)  is  Sugar-loaf  Mountain  (765  ft.  high),  and  near  by, 
reaching  far  out  into  the  river,  is  a  sandy  bluff  on  which  Fort  Independ- 
ence once  stood.  At  the  foot  of  Sugar-loaf  is  Beverly  House.,  where 
Benedict  Arnold  was  breakfasting  when  news  came  to  him  of  Andre's 
arrest,  and  whence  he  fled  to  the  British  vessel  (the  Vulture)  anchored 
in  the  stream  below.  Passing  swiftly  on,  the  Buttermilk  Falls  soon 
come  into  view  (on  the  left),  descending  over  inclined  ledges  a  distance 
of  100  ft.  On  the  lofty  bluff  above  is  the  spacious  and  handsome  Cran- 
stonh  Hotel.,  one  of  the  favorite  summer  haunts  of  pleasure-seeking  New- 
Yorkers.  Thei^e  is  a  special  landing  for  passengers  who  wish  to  reach 
the  h  ^tel,  and  on  the  opposite  river-bank  is  Garrison^ s.,  another  popular 
summer  resort,  with  fine  hotels  and  picturesque  surroundings. 

*  West  Point  {West  Point  Hotel).,  just  above  Cranston's  (51  miles 
from  New  York),  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  on  the  river,  and 
should  be  visited.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  U.  S.  Military  Academy,  the  build- 
ings for  which  occupy  a  broad  terrace,  1*75  ft.  above  the  river,  reached 
from  the  landing  by  a  steep  and  costly  road  cut  out  of  the  solid  clift'-side. 
The  most  noteworthy  of  the  buildings  are  the  Cadets'  Barracks,  the  Aca- 
demic Building,  the  Mess  Hall,  and  the  Library  (26,000  vols.),  in  which  is 
the  Observatory.  The  Chapel  and  the  Museum  of  Ordnance  and  Ti-o- 
phies  are  interesting.  The  buildings  front  the  spacious  Parade-Ground, 
smooth  as  a  lawn  and  level  as  a  floor ;  and  the  grounds  are  tastefully 
laid  oiit,  containing  several  fine  monuments,  and  commanding  a  variety 
of  pleasing  views.  The  Cemetery  is  reached  by  a  winding  road ;  and 
from  the  crumbling  walls  of  ^  Fort  Putnam  (on  Mt.  Independence,  600 
ft.  above  the  river)  a  view  is  obtained  which  will  abundantly  repay  the 
labor  of  reaching  it.  The  best  time  to  visit  West  Point  is  during  June, 
July,  and  August ;  the  scenery  being  then  at  its  best,  and  the  military 
exercises  of  the  Academy  offering  additional  attractions.  The  "  Com- 
mencement," or  graduating  exercises,  occurs  about  the  3d  week  in  June, 
and  about  June  20th  the  cadets  go  into  camp  for  the  summer. 

Above  West  Point,  on  the  same  side,  is  Cro'  Nest^  one  of  the  lofti- 
est of  the  Highland  group  (1,400  ft.),  and  still  above  is  *  Storm  King 
(1,529  ft.  high),  Avhere  an  immense  cantilever  bridge  is  being  erected 
across  the  river.  Between  Storm  King  and  Cro'  Nest  lies  the  lovely 
vale  of  Tempe  ;  and  opposite  is  the  pretty  little  village  of  Cold  Spring., 
behind  which  rises  the  massive  granite  crown  of  Mount  Taurus  ("  Bull 
Hiir').  Beyond,  still  on  the  E.  side,  the  Highlands  are  continued  in  the 
jagged  precipices  of  Breakneck  and  Beacon  Hill.,  respectively  1,220  and 
1,624  ft.  in  height.  These  mountains  are  among  the  most  commanding 
features  of  the  river  scenery,  and  from  the  summit  of  the  latter  New 
York  City  may  be  seen.  Cornwall  Landing  ( Grand  View  House., 
Mountain  House\  a  picturesque  village  on  the  W.  bank,  is  a  much-fre- 
quented summer  resort  on  the  river,  and  contains  a  number  of  hotels. 


Route  9.]  THE    HUDSON   RIVER.  Yl 

adjacent  to  which  are  fine  drives.  Here  the  Highlands  come  to  an  end, 
and  the  steamer  eaters  the  broad  expanse  of  Newburg  Bay,  on  the  W. 
shore  of  which  is  JVewburg,  a  handsomely  built  city  of  ^SjOS'?  inhab- 
itants. This  city  is  the  northern  terminus  of  a  branch  of  the  Erie  R.  R. 
Newburg  was  the  theatre  of  many  interesting  events  during  the  Revo- 
lution, and  *  Washington's  Headquarters,  an  old  gray  stone  mansion  S. 
of  the  city,  is  still  preserved  as  a  museum  of  historical  relics  (admission 
free).  Opposite  Newburg  is  Fishkill  Landing,  a  small  but  pretty  vil- 
lage, with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry;  and  15  miles  above, 
on  the  E.  bank  (75  miles  from  New  York),  is  *  Poughkeepsie,  the 
largest  city  between  New  York  and  Albany,  built  on  an  elevated  plain, 
nearly  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  backed  by  high  hills.  There  are 
several  fine  churches,  numerous  handsome  residences,  and  no  less  than 
eight  important  educational  institutions,  including  Vassar  College,  one 
of  the  leading  female  colleges  of  the  world.  The  buildings  of  Vassar 
College  occupy  a  commanding  site  2  miles  E.  of  the  city,  the  main  build- 
ing (500  ft.  long)  being  modeled  after  the  Tuileries.  N.  of  the  city,  on 
an  eminence  overlooking  the  river,  are  the  vast  and  stately  buildings  of 
the  Hudson  River  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane.  A  cantilever  bridge 
crosses  the  Hudson  at  this  point,  over  which  the  trains  of  the  Central 
New  England  &  Western  R.  R.  pass,  connecting  the  coal  regions  of 
Pennsylvania  with  New  England.  Across  the  river  from  Poughkeepsie 
(ferry)  is  New  Paltz  Landing,  from  which  stages  run  14  miles  to  *  Lake 
Mohouk  {Mountain  House),  a  delightful  summer  resort  situated  near 
the  summit  of  Sky  Top,  one  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Shawangunk  Mount- 
ains, 1,243  ft.  above  the  river.  The  lake  and  its  vicinity  are  extremely 
picturesque,  and  the  views  from  neighboring  summits  surprisingly  tine. 
(Lake  Mohonk  is  also  reached  from  New  York  via  Wallkill  Valley 
branch  of  the  Erie  R.  R.  to  New  Paltz,  and  thence  by  stage,  in  6 
miles). 

Five  miles  above  Poughkeepsie,  on  the  E.  bank,  is  Hyde  Parlc^ 
on  a  terrace  ^  mile  back  from  the  river,  containing  several  summer 
boarding-houses,  with  fine  country-seats  in  the  vicinity.  On  the  W. 
side,  Rondout  and  Kingston,  2  miles  above,  now  form  one  city,  with  a 
large  trade.  Here  the  West  Shore  road  connects  with  the  Ulster  &  Dela- 
toare  R.  R.  into  the  heart  of  the  mountain-region.  At  RhinecUff,  oppo- 
site Kingston,  is  the  Beekman  House,  nearly  200  years  old,  and  an  ex- 
cellent specimen  of  an  old  Dutch  homestead ;  and  here  a  branch  of  the 
Central  New  England  and  Western  R.  R.  meets  the  Hudson.  A  short 
distance  above  is  Rokeby,  the  estate  of  William  B.  Astor,  and  still 
farther  on,  above  Barrytown,  qxq'  Montgomery  Place,  the  residence  of  Ed- 
ward Livingston,  and  Annandale,  the  villa  of  John  Bard.  At  Catskill 
Landing  (111  miles),  a  favorite  point  of  departure  for  the  mountains 
{see  Route  10),  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  connects  with  the  Catskill  Mount- 
ain R.  R.  Four  miles  above  (on  the  E.  side)  is  the  flourishing  city  of 
Hudson,  which  is  finely  situated  upon  a  bold  promontory,  at  the  head 
of  ship-navigation  on  the  river.  From  Prospect  Hill  (500  ft.  high)  there 
is  an  incomparably  fine  view  of  the  Catskills.  Five  miles  from  Hudson, 
in  the  Claverack  Valley,  are  the  Columbia  Springs,  a  quiet  rural 


Y2  ALBANY.  [Boute  9. 

resort  much  frequented  by  invalids  and  others.    From  Hudson  to  Albany 
the  scenery  offers  nothing  calling  for  special  notice. 

Albany* 

Hotels,  etc.— Delavan  House  (in  Broadway,  near  the  E.  R.  depot),  Ken- 
more  (N.  Pearl  St.),  and  Stanwix  Hall  are  first-class  hotels.  American,  Globe, 
and  the  Mansion  House  are  less  expensive.  Prices  are  from  $2.50  to  $4  a  day. 
Beading -rooms  at  the  State  Library,  in  the  Capitol  ;  at  the  Young  Men's  Asso- 
ciation, in  Washington  Ave.;  and  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  in  N.  Pearl  St.  Electric- 
cars  to  different  parts  of  the  city  and  to  Troy.  There  are  three  iron  bndges  to 
Greenbush. 

Albany,  the  capital  of  New  York  State,  is  finely  situated  on  three 
hills  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hudson,  six  miles  below  the  head  of  tide- 
water. It  was  founded  by  the  Dutch  as  a  trading-post  in  1614  and 
called  Fort  Orange,  and,  next  to  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  was  the  earliest 
European  settlement  in  the  original  13  States.  Its  present  name  was 
given  it  in  1664,  in  honor  of  the  Duke  of  York  and  Albany  (afterward 
James  II).  It  was  chartered  in  1686,  and  made  the  State  capital  in  1798, 
since  which  time  its  population  has  increased  from  5,349  (in  1800)  to 
94,923  in  1890.  Albany  has  a  large  commerce  from  its  position  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  river,  as  the  entrepot  of  the  great  Erie 
Canal  from  the  W.  and  the  Champlain  Canal  from  the  N.,  and  as  the 
center  to  which  several  important  railways  converge. 

Broadway  is  the  important  wholesale  business  thoroughfare  near 
the  river,  while  the  chief  retail  stores  are  on  Pearl  St.  State  St.  leads 
by  a  steep  ascent  from  the  Federal  Building  to  Capitol  Square,  in 
which  are  the  public  buildings,  and  then  extends  for  a  mile  beyond. 
The  *]Vew  Capitol,  to  the  W.  of  the  site  of  the  old  Capitol,  was 
begun  in  18Y1,  and  is  now  occupied  by  the  Legislature  of  the  State.  It 
is  of  Maine  granite,  in  the  renaissance  style,  and  stands  on  elevated 
ground ;  its  tower  is  to  be  320  ft.  high,  and  will  command  a  fine  view. 
The  structure  is  300  ft.  N.  and  S.  by  400  ft.  E.  and  W.,  and  with  the 
porticoes,  when  completed,  will  cover  more  than  three  acres,  and  the 
walls  are  108  ft.  in  height.  The  *  State  Library,  in  the  W.  side 
of  the  Capitol,  contains  156,493  volumes,  and  an  interesting  collection 
of  curiosities  and  historical  relics.  The  Uniyersity  of  the  State  of  New 
^  York  has  its  offices  in  the  Capitol.  The  -  City  Hall,  in  Eagle  St., 
foot  of  Washington  Ave.,  is  built  of  rose  granite.  The  City  Building^ 
in  S.  Pearl  St.,  contains  various  offices  of  the  city  government.  The 
U.  S.  Government  Building,  cor.  State  St.  and  Broadway,  is  a  handsome 
edifice.  The  State  Ainnory  is  in  Washington  Ave.,  near  Lark  St.  The 
Young  Menh  Association^  with  a  library  of  12,000  volumes  and  a  read- 
ing-room, occupies  Harmanus  Bleecker  Hcdl^  in  Washington  Ave.,  the 
Association  using  the  "  Bleecker  bequest "  of  $120,000  to  build  the  hall. 
On  the  opposite  corner  is  the  fine  office-building  of  the  Delaware  &  Hud- 
son R.  R.  The  *  State  Geological  and  Agricultu7xd  Hall  contains  the 
natural  history  collection  of  the  New  York  State  Museum  and  those  of 
the  New  York  State  Agricultural  Society.  The  Medical  College,  cor. 
Eagle  and  Jay  Sts.,  is  a  prosperous  institution,  with  an  extensive  mu- 
seum ;  and  in  State  St.  is  the  Law  School  of  the  Albany  University.     Of 


Route  9.']  ALBANY.  73 

the  more  than  50  churches  in  the  city  the  *  Cathedral  of  the  Im- 
maculate Conception  (in  Eagle  St.)  and  the  Church  of  St.  Joseph 
(cor.  Ten  Broeck  and  2d  Sts.)  are  the  most  noteworthy.  The  Cathe- 
dral seats  4,000  persons,  and  its  stained-glass  windows  are  among  the 
richest  in  America.  A  fine  altar  and  other  additions  have  been  made. 
All  SainU  Epv^copal  Cathedral  (Bishop  Doane)  is  situated  at  Elk  and 
Swan  Sts.  8t.  Peterh  (Episcopal),  cor.  Lodge  and  State  Sts.,  is  a  hand- 
some Gothic  structure,  and  owns  a  service  of  communion  plate  present- 
ed by  Queen  Anne  to  the  Onondaga  Indians.  The  Second  Reformed 
Churchy  in  Madison  Ave.,  the  First  Presbyterian^  on  the  cor.  of  Willett 
and  State  Sts.,  and  Calvary  Baptist  Church,  cor.  State  and  High  Sts., 
are  recent  and  handsome  edifices.  The  Fort  Orange  and  Albany  Clubs 
have  fine  houses.  Dudley  Observatory,  founded  and  endowed  by 
Mrs.  Blandina  Dudley,  stands  on  Observatory  Hill,  near  the  N.  limits  of 
the  city.  During  1892  the  erection  of  a  new  observatory  on  an  eleva- 
tion above  Lake  Ave.,  near  its  junction  with  the  New  Scotland  plank- 
road,  was  begun.  The  Penitentiary,  1  mile  W.  of  the  city,  is  a  model 
prison,  and  near  it  stand  the  Poor  Houses.  G^^eenbush,  with  its  famous 
Van  Rensselaer  House,  East  Albany,  and  Bath-on-the- Hudson  are  pop- 
ulous suburbs  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 

The  State  Normcd  School  occupies  a  building  in  Willet  St.  fronting 
Washington  Park.  The  Female  Academy,  and  the  Albany  Academy,  for 
boys,  are  leading  schools.  In  this  building  Prof.  Joseph  Henry,  with  a 
mile  of  wire,  constructed  the  first  electro-magnetic  telegraph.  The  High 
School  (Academy  Square)  is  at  the  head  of  the  public-school  system. 

An  interesting  relic  of  the  eai-ly  days  of  the  city  is  the  old  Schuyler 
House,  in  Schuyler  St.  near  S.  Pearl,  which  was  burned  down  in  1*759, 
and  immediately  rebuilt,  portions  of  the  original  walls  remaining.  It 
was  the  residence  of  Colonel  Peter  Schuyler,  the  first  Mayor  of  Albany. 
Washington  Park,  81  acres,  in  the  W.  part  of  the  city  is  a  beautiful 
pleasure-ground.  It  contains  a  bronze  statue  of  Robert  Burns,  presented 
by  the  Scottish  citizens,  and  a  bust  of  Dr.  James  H.  Armsby.  The  sum 
of  $20,000  was  bequeathed  by  Henry  L.  King  for  the  erection  of  a 
fountain. 

*  Troy  (reached  from  Albany  by  railroad,  steamboats,  and  electric- 
cars)  lies  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson,  6  miles  above  Albany,  and  at  the 
head  of  river  navigation.  Its  population  in  1890  was  60,956,  and  it  has 
a  large  commerce,  with  manufactures  of  iron,  steel,  cars,  and  especially 
extensive  manufactures  of  collars,  cuffs,  and  shirts.  River  St.,  running 
parallel  with  the  river,  is  the  chief  thoroughfare;  and  near  1st,  2d,  3d, 
and  5th  Sts.,  are  the  finest  churches  and  private  residences.  The  Savings- 
Bank,  in  State  St.,  is  an  elegant  edifice,  costing  $450,000;  the  new 
City  Hall  is  a  fine  building;  and  there  are  many  handsome  business 
structures.  A  Soldiers'  Monument,  90  ft.  high,  is  on  Washington 
Square.  Besides  bronze  tablets  representing  "  The  Cavalry,"  "  The 
Artillery,"  "The  Monitor  and  Merrimac,"  and  "The  Infantry,"  it  is 
surmounted  by  a  heroic  bronze  female  figure,  entitled  "  Calling  to 
Arms,"  by  James  E.  Kelly.  The  Athenceum  is  a  beautiful  freestone 
edifice,  in  which  is  the   Young  Mews  Christian  Association  Library. 


74  THE    CATS  KILL    M0U:N'TAING.  [Route  10. 

The  buildings  of  ^8t.  Joseph''s  Theological  Seminary  (on  Mt.  Ida,  E.  of 
the  city)  are  noble  specimens  of  Byzantine  architecture.  The  Rensselaer 
Polytechnic  Irtstitute^  on  8th  St.,  is  one  of  the  leading  schools  in  the 
United  States  for  instruction  in  civil  engineering.  There  are  several 
other  important  educational  institutions.  In  West  Troy  is  the  great 
Watervliet  Arsenal,  with  40  buildings  in  a  park  of  105  acres.  It  is 
here  that  the  heavy  rifled  cannon  of  the  most  advanced  type  are  made. 

10.  The  Catskill  Mountains. 

Kingston  may  be  reacliecl  by  tbe  f ollowhig  routes  :  New  York  Central  and 
Hudson  River  K."^  R.  from  New  York  or  Albany  to  Ehinecliff,  ci'ossing  the  river 
by  ferry  ;  Day  Line  Steamers  from  New  York  or  Albany  every  week-day,  to 
Ehinebeck,  crossing  the  river  by  ferry  ;  Albany  Day  Line  and  steamer  Mary 
Powell  from  New  York ;  and  West  Shore  K.  E.  from  New  York  or  Albany. 
CatsMll  may  be  reached  by  the  following  routes  :  New  York  Central  and  Hud- 
son Eiver  E.  E.  from  New  York  or  Albany  to  Catskill  Station,  crossing  the 
river  by  ferry  ;  Day  Line  Steamers  from  New  York  or  Albany  every  week-day  ; 
Catskill  Night  Line,  foot  of  Jay  St.,  New  York,  leaving  at  fi  p.  m.  every  week- 
day: and  West  Shore  E.  E.  from  New  York  or  Albany.  (1)  The  Catskill  Mount- 
ain E.  E.  starts  from  Catskill,  and  carries  passengers  as  far  as  Palenville.  the 
terminus,  where  the  Kaaterskill  Clove  debouches  on  the  Hudson  Eiver  Valley, 
a  distance  of  sixteen  miles.  The  intermediate  stations  between  Catskill  and 
Palenville  are  South  Cairo,  Cairo  proper,  Monntain  House  Station,  and  Otis 
Junction.  At  Otis  Junction  passengei's  take  elevator-car  to  landing,  which  is 
near  the  Catskill  Monntain  House,  and  but  a  short  walk  from  Hotel  Kaaters- 
kill. (2)  From  Kingston  the  mountains  may  be  reached  via  Ulster  &  Delaware 
E.  E.  to  Phoenicia,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Stony  Clove  &  Catskill 
Monntain  E.  E.  The  New  Grand  Hotel  is  reached  by  this  route  direct  from 
Kingston  to  Grand  Hotel  Station.  On  changing  cars  for  the  Stony  Clove  E.  R., 
the  tourist  may  proceed  to  Hunter,  on  Schoharie  Creek,  14  miles  distant.  The 
Kaaterskill  E.  E.  connects  with  the  Stony  Clove  &  Catskill  Mountain  E.  E.  at 
Kaaterskill  Junction,  near  Hunter,  and  runs  to  Kaaterskill  Station,  and  has  its 
eastern  terminus  1  mile  from  the  Catskill  Mountain  House.  It  is  also  the  sta- 
tion for  Hotel  Kaaterskill.  This  is  the  favorite  route  of  entering  the  mountains 
from  the  west. 

The  Catskills,  or  Kaatskills,  follow  the  course  of  the  Hudson  for 
20  or  30  miles,  lying  W.  of  it,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  valley  10  or  12 
miles  wide.  Their  chief  interest  lies  in  the  beauty  and  variety  of  their 
scenery.  In  a  field  of  very  limited  area,  easy  of  access  and  soon  ex- 
plored, they  present  a  multitude  of  picturesque  objects  which  have  long 
made  them  a  favorite  resort  of  artists  and  of  all  who  find  pleasure  in  the 
wild  haunts  of  the  mountains.  Indian  tradition  singled  them  out  as 
the  favorite  dwelling-place  of  spirits,  and  they,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Hudson  Highlands,  are  the  only  faery  ground  that  American  litera- 
ture has  ventured  to  appropriate. 

The  village  of  Catskill  (a  station  on  the  West  Shore  E.  R.)  occu- 
pies an  elevated  and  attractive  site  at  the  mouth  of  Catskill  Creek,  and 
has  some  4,920  inhabitants.  The  scenery  in  the  neighborhood,  espe- 
cially along  the  banks  of  the  creek,  is  very  pleasing.  The  Prospect 
Park  Hotel,  near  the  landing,  is  spacious  and  handsome,  located  on  a 
high  plateau  and  surrounded  by  extensive  grounds.  In  the  village  are 
several  excellent  hotels ;  and  about  a  mile  to  the  W.  is  the  Grant 
House,  situated  on  a  commanding  elevation,  with  a  noble  outlook  to  the 
mountains. 


Route  10.]  THE   CATSKILL   MOUNTAmS.  75 

(1)  From  Catskill  the  Catskill  Mountain  R.  R.  runs  6  trains  a  day  to 
Palenville.  The  road  follows  Catskill  Creek,  and  at  South  Cairo  finds  an 
opening  in  the  foot-hills.  Then,  after  skh^ting  the  base  of  Cairo  Round- 
Top  Mountain,  the  train  stops  at  Mountain-House  Station,  whence  the 
visitor  was  formerly  driven  up  over  a  road  where  every  turn  brings 
into  view  new  scenes  of  grandeur.  The  Otis  Elevating  Railway,  taken 
at  Otis  Junction,  now  conveys  the  tourist  to  the  summit,  a  distance 
of  1^  mile,  in  ten  minutes.  The  old  and  well-known  *  Mountain 
House  is  a  spacious  edifice,  perched  upon  one  of  the  terraces  of  Pine 
Orchard  Mountain,  at  an  elevation  of  2,250  ft.  above  the  river.  From 
the  broad  rock  platform  in  front  of  the  hotel,  a  view  of  surpassing 
beauty  may  be  obtained.  Directly  in  front,  the  mountain  falls  almost 
perpendicularly  to  the  plain ;  to  the  right,  the  broad  Hudson  winds 
through  its  noble  valley ;  in  the  dim  distance  Albany  may  be  descried 
with  a  glass ;  and  on  the  horizon  the  Hudson  Highlands,  the  Berkshire 
Hills,  and  the  Green  Mountains  unite  their  chains,  forming  a  continuous 
line  of  misty  blue.  The  views  from  the  Mountain  House  are  said  to 
embrace  an  area  of  12,000  square  miles,  including  portions  of  Vermont, 
Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  and  New  Jersey.  At  Sunset  Rock,  near  the 
summit  of  South  Mountain,  3,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  the  Hotel  Kaater- 
skill,  the  largest  in  the  mountains,  and  commanding  a  magnificent  extent 
of  view.  The  jVorth  Aloimtain  is  easily  ascended  from  the  Mountain 
House ;  the  best  view  is  from  Table  Rock,  f  of  a  mile  X.  of  the  hotel. 
On  the  N.  side  of  this  rock  a  fine  echo  may  be  heard.  Another  favorite 
excursion  is  to  the  top  of  South  Mountain^  which  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  Catskill  Pass  and  some  distant  peaks  of  Xew  Jersey.  *  High 
Peak  (6  miles  W.  of  the  Mountain  House)  is  one  of  the  loftiest  of  the 
Catskill  summits,  and  should  certainly  be  climbed  in  order  to  see  the 
region  fairly.  The  ascent  is  toilsome,  but  ladies  often  accomplish  it, 
and  the  view  from  the  summit  (3,804  ft.  high)  well  repays  the  labor  of 
reaching  it. 

The  Two  Lakes  (North  and  South)  are  back  of  the  Mountain  House, 
on  the  road  to  the  famous  *  Kaaterskill  Falls,  which  are  two  miles 
distant.  At  the  head  of  the  falls  is  the  Lanrel  House^  an  excellent 
hotel,  commanding  fine  views  of  the  falls,  of  the  country  about,  and  of 
Round  Top  and  High  Peak  in  the  immediate  neighborhood.  The  falls 
are  formed  by  the  outlet  of  the  lakes  plunging  into  a  deep  hollow  where 
the  mountain  divides  like  the  cleft  foot  of  a  deer.  The  descent  of  the 
first  cascade  is  180  ft.,  that  of  the  second  80,  and  below  these  there  is 
another  fall  (the  Bastion)  of  40  ft.  Below  the  falls  the  sides  of  the 
gorge  rise  in  a  succession  of  walls  of  rock  to  the  height  of  300  ft.  or 
more.  To  see  the  falls  to  the  best  advantage,  the  visitor  should  descend 
the  winding  stairs  leading  from  the  terrace  of  the  hotel  (fee  25c.)  and 
spend  an  hour  or  two  in  exploring  the  gorge  and  glen  below.  As  the 
supply  of  water  is  limited,  the  stream  has  been  dammed  at  the  verge  of 
the  cliff  and  is  only  turned  on  at  intervals  for  the  benefit  of  visitors. 
Below  the  falls,  the  Kaaterskill  has  a  devious  and  winding  course  of 
8  miles  to  the  Catskill,  which  it  enters  near  the  village.  Some  ruggedly 
picturesque  scenery  may  be  enjoyed  by  descending  the  glen  to  the  road 


76  THE    CATSKILL    MOuiTAmS.  [Boute  10. 

in  the  Clove,  about  a  mile  from  the  falls.  Sunset  Hock,  commanding 
noble  views,  is  reached  from  the  Laurel  House  by  a  walk  gt  a  mile  and 
a  half  through  the  forest. 

A  favorite  excursion  from  either  the  Mountain  House  or  the  Laurel 
House  is  to  Haines's  Falls,  a  spot  much  frequented  by  artists.  At 
the  Haines  House,  near  by,  one  pays  the  usual  fee  (25  c.)  for  viewing 
the  scene.  The  fall  has  two  leaps,  the  first  of  150  and  the  second  of  80 
ft.,  with  a  third  one  below  of  60  ft.,  and  others  still,  so  that  in  less  than 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  the  stream  falls  4*75  ft.  From  Haines's  Falls  a 
rugged  and  picturesque  ravine,  called  the  KaatersJcill  Clove\  traversed 
by  a  tolerable  road,  leads  down  to  the  plain  below.  In  this  ravine  are 
the  High  Rocks,  and  200  or  300  yards  below  are  the  beautiful  Fa"wn 
Leap  Falls  (fee  25c.).  At  the  mouth  of  the  Clove  is  Palenville 
Winchelsea  House),  where  there  are  many  boarding-houses,  and  where 
artists  most  do  congregate.  Six  miles  from  Palenville  is  the  PlatteJcill 
Clove,  a  deep  and  rugged  gorge,  in  which  are  the  Black  Chasm  Falls, 
300  ft.  high.  Another  pleasant  ride  is  along  the  ridge  5  or  6  miles  to 
the  entrance  of  the  Stony  Clove,  and  thence  through  the  wilderness  of 
this  fine  pass,  within  whose  depths  ice  remains  throughout  the  year. 
At  the  head  of  the  Clove  is  Roggen's  Mountain  Hotel,  a  favorite  resort 
for  sportsmen.  On  the  road  from  the  Mountain  House  is  the  pretty  lit- 
tle hamlet  of  Tannersville  (Fabian  House  and  the  Roggen's  Mountain 
House) ;  and  4  miles  W.,  beyond  the  entrance  to  Stony  Clove,  is  Htmter 
(Breeze  Lawn  House),  nestling  in  a  narrow  glen,  with  Hunter  Mountain 
(4,082  ft.  high)  towering  above  it. 

A  branch  of  the  Catskill  Mountain  R.  R.  runs  to  the  mountain  village 
of  Cairo  (10  miles),  which  is  connected  by  stages  with  South  Durham 
(16  m.),  Windham  (26  m.),  Prattsville  (36  m.),  and  in  all  of  which  are 
numerous  summer  boarding-houses.  Near  it  are  the  celebrated  Pratts' 
Rocks,  on  which  are  cut  busts  of  the  Pratts,  who  founded  the  town. 

(2)  From  Kingston  the  Ulster  &  Delaware  R.  R.  carries  you  along 
the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Esopus,  through  many  enchanting  scenes, 
and  up  a  grade  of  remarkable  steepness.  At  W.  Hurley  (9  miles  from 
Kingston)  a  stage  conveys  passengers  a  distance  of  nine  miles  to  Over- 
look Mountain  House,  commanding  extensive  views  over  the  Hudson 
Highlands  and  Valley.  Fcho  Lake  and  Plaatekill  Falls  are  respectively 
a  mile  and  a  half  and  three  miles  distant.  At  Shokan  (18  miles)  the 
line  turns  N.  to  Phoenicia  (2*7  miles),  where  is  the  junction  with  the 
Stony  Clove  &  Catskill  R.  R.,  and  the  Tremper  House  is  excellent.  Pine 
Hill,  12  miles  farther  {Guigou  House),  commands  a  view  of  the  Shanda- 
ken  Valley ;  and  next  we  reach  Grand  Hotel  Station,  the  highest  point 
of  the  railroad.  Here  is  the  New  Grand  Hotel,  with  its  glorious  pros- 
pect over  the  head-waters  of  the  Delaware.  The  mountains  in  the  dis- 
tance are  Slide  Mountain,  the  highest  of  the  Catskill  group  (4,200  ft.), 
and  Panther,  Table,  and  Bcdsam  Mountains.  From  Phoenicia  the  Stony 
Clove  and  Catskill  Mountain  R.  R.  runs  to  Hunter,  and  from  Kaaterskill 
Junction  the  Kaaterskill  R,  R,  runs  past  Tannersville  to  Kaaterskill 
Station  (p.  74). 


Route  11.]  NEW   TOEK   TO   BOSTOi^.  77 

11.  New  York  to  Boston  via  Hew  Haven,  Hartford,  and 
Springfield. 

The  "  Springfield  Route,"  as  this  line  is  familiarly  called,  is  composed  of  the 
New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  E.  R.  to  Springfield  and  thence  via  the  Bos- 
ton &  Albany  R.  R.  to  Boston.  Solid  drawing-room  car  express  trains  leave 
either  city  at  9  and  11  a.  m.  and  4  (limited  express)  and  11  p.  m.  Distance,  234 
miles  ;  fare,  ^5. 

Leaving  the  Grand  Central  Station,  the  train  runs  on  the  track  of  the 
New  York  k  Harlem  K.  R.  as  far  as  Woodlawn  Cemetery  (12  miles),  and 
then  takes  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  which  runs  through 
several  pretty  suburban  towns.  iVeitf  Rochelle  (lY  miles) ;  Larchmont 
(18  miles)  is  a  pleasant  resort  and  invites  many  visitors  during  the  sum- 
mer months;  Mamaroneck  (21  miles)  and  Rye  (24  miles)  are  especially 
attractive,  owing  to  their  proximity  to  Long  Island  Sound,  which  affords 
excellent  salt-water  bathing,  boating,  etc.  The  American  Steam  Yacht 
Club  has  erected  a  fine  club-house  here.  Greenioich  (28  miles),  the  first 
station  in  Connecticut,  is  a  picturesque  old  town,  pleasantly  situated  on 
hill-slopes  commanding  fine  views  of  Long  Island  Sound.  It  is  noted 
for  its  great  number  of  beautiful  svmimer  villas.  The  Belle  Haven 
Mansion  and  the  Lenox  House  are  favorite  houses,  open  only  in  sum- 
mer. A  short  distance  S.  E.  is  Indian  Harbor^  where  is  the  Indian 
Harbor  Hoase^  an  elegant  and  spacious  summer  hotel.  Stamford  (33 
miles)  is  a  favorite  resort  of  New  York  merchants,  many  of  whom  have 
embellished  its  heights  with  handsome  mansions  and  villas.  The  town 
is  embowered  in  trees,  and  there  are  several  fine  churches  and  public 
buildings.  Sliippan  Pointy  2  miles  S.  of  Stamford,  is  frequented  in 
summer  by  many  hundreds,  who  crowd  the  spacious  Ocean  House  and 
numerous  smaller  places  of  entertainment.  8.  Norwalk  (42  miles)  is 
near  the  beautiful  village  of  Norwalk  (reached  by  horse-cars),  which  is 
also  much  resorted  to  in  summer.  Its  harbor  is  a  picturesque  bay, 
which  afi'ords  oysters  in  great  abundance  and  of  excellent  quality.  The 
hotels  are  the  City  and  the  Mahackemo  in  S.  Norwalk,  and  the  Norwalk 
in  Norwalk.  About  1^  mile  S.  of  S.  Norwalk,  on  Gregory's  Point,  is 
t\\e  Do7'lon  House,  a  delightful  summer  hotel  on  the  Sound.  Westport 
(45  miles)  is  the  next  station  of  importance.  Fairfield  (51  miles),  still 
another  popular  summer  resort,  has  the  finest  beach  on  the  Sound,  and 
supports  two  large  hotels,  the  Manor  House  and  the  New  3Ierwin  House. 
The  adjacent  scenery  is  very  attractive.  *  Bridgeport  {Sterling  and 
Wilson  ;  56  miles)  is  a  flourishing  city  of  48,866  inhabitants,  situated 
on  an  arm  of  Long  Island  Sound,  and  noted  for  the  extent  and  variety 
of  its  manufactures,  chief  among  which  are  sewing-machines,  leather, 
carriages,  arms,  cutlery,  and  locks.  It  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the 
Housatonic  and  Naugatuck  Divs.,  and  has  15  churches,  8  banks,  and 
daily  newspapers.  The  city  is  handsomely  built,  and  Golden  Hill  is 
crowned  with  fine  villas.  The  Fairfield  County  Court-House  is  a  hand- 
some structure.  Black  Rock  on  the  Sound  is  a  much-frequented  resort 
during  the  summer.  Passing  now  the  pretty  villages  of  Stratford  (59 
miles)  and  Milford  (64  miles),  the  train  approaches  New  Haven  (YS 
miles)  across  extensive  salt-meadows. 


78  NEW   YORK  TO  BOSTON.  [Route   11. 

New   Haven. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Neiv  Haven  House,  cor.  College  and  Chapel  Sts.,  is  the 
leading  hotel.  The  Elliott,  cor.  Chapel  and  Olive  Sts. ;  the  Tontine,  cor.  Church 
and  Court  Sts.;  and  the  Tremont,  cor.  Orange  and  Court  Sts.,  are  good.  There 
are  Beading -rooms  at  the  Free  Public  Library  of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  and  at  the 
Young  Men's  Institute  in  Chapel  St.  Btreet-cars  traverse  all  parts  of  the  city, 
and  run  to  the  suburbs.  Carriages  are  allowed  to  charge  50c.  for  one  passen- 
ger one  course,  unless  an  advance  agreement  is  made,  and  each  additional  pas- 
senger 25c.    Steamboats  run  to  New  York  thrice  daily  (fare,  $1). 

New  Haven,  the  largest  city  of  Connecticut,  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  New  Haven  Bay,  4  miles  from ,  Long  Island  Sound,  on  a  broad  plain 
surrounded  by  rolling  hills.  It  was  settled  in  1638,  was  incorporated  as 
a  city  in  l^si,  and  from  1701  to  IS^o  was  one  of  the  capitals  of  the 
State.  It  is  the  center  of  5  branch  railroads,  and  has  a  large  coasting- 
trade.  Its  manufactures  are  very  extensive,  including  machinery,  hard- 
w^are,  locks,  clocks,  fire-arms,  carriages,  pianos,  jewelry.  India-rubber 
goods,  etc.,  and  involve  a  capital  of  over  .$16,000,000.  The  population 
in  1890  was  81,298.  The  city  has  numerous  churches,  many  public 
schools,  several  banks,  5  daily  newspapers,  and  numerous  charitable  in- 
stitutions. New  Haven  is  the  center  of  an  extensive  railroad  system. 
In  addition  to  the  main  line,  there  are  the  Northampton  to  Shelburne 
Falls,  Air-Line  to  Willimantic,  Shore-Line  to  New  London,  and  Berk- 
shire Divs.  to  Pittsfield — all  divisions  of  the  New  Yoi'k,  New  Haven  & 
Hartford  R.  R. 

Chapel  8t.^  the  principal  thoroughfare,  extends  in  a  W.  N.  W.  direc- 
tion from  end  to  end  of  the  city.  State  and  Church  are  also  important 
business  streets,  and  *Hillhouse  Ave.  is  lined  with  handsome  resi- 
dences. Temple  St.  has  perhaps  the  finest  elms,  and  its  four  rows  of 
trees  form  an  arch  over  the  roadway.  Both  Prospect  St.  and  Whit- 
ney Ave.  are  fine  streets  with  beautiful  residences,  and  the  latter 
forms  a  drive  to  Whitneyville  Lake.  The  many  magnificent  elms  with 
which  its  principal  streets  are  planted  has  caused  New  Haven  to  be 
called  the  "City  of  Elms."  The  *  Public  Green,  in  the  center  of 
the  city,  is  a  fine  lawn  shaded  by  noble  elms,  and  contain^s  the  Center 
Churchy  the  United  Church,  and  Trinity  Church.  Back  of  Center 
Church  are  the  grave  and  monument  of  the  regicide,  John  Dixwell.  On 
the  E.  side  of  the  Green  is  the  *  City  Hall,  a  very  handsome  build- 
ing, containing  the  municipal  ofiices.  The  Custo')n-House  (which  con- 
tains the  Post-Office)  is  a  Portland  brown-stone  edifice  in  Church  St. 
near  Chapel  St.  The  other  principal  public  buildings  are  the  Court- 
House,  in  Chui"ch  St.,  the  Second  Regiment  Arm,ory,  the  JS/'eiv  Haven 
Hospital,  the  Orphan  Asylum,  and  the  County  Priso7i.  The  last  two 
are  in  the  W.  part  of  the  city.  The  Union  Depot  is  a  large  brick  build- 
ing, fronting  the  harbor. 

Across  College  St.  from  the  Green  are  the  grounds  of  *  Yale  Uni- 
versity, one  of  the  oldest  and  most  important  educational  institutions 
in  America.  It  was  founded  in  1701,  estabhshed  at  New  Haven  in  1717, 
and  in  1892-93  had  184  instructors  and  1,969  students.  Besides  its  aca- 
demic and  scientific  undergraduate  departments,  the  University  has  law, 
medical,  theological,  and  tine  arts  courses  of  graduate  instruction.     The 


Yale  College  Vieivs, 


IRoute  ll.]  NEW   TOEK   TO    BOSTON.  79 

grounds  include  9  acres,  and  contain  many  buildings.  The  most  note- 
worthy buildings  include  ^Oshorn  Hall  (on  the  S.  E.  cor.  of  the  square) ; 
Library  B^iildings^  with  200,000  volumes  ;  the  elaborate  *  Art  Building 
(at  the  S.  W.  cor.  of  the  square),  containing  a  fine  collection  of  paint- 
ings, statuary,  and  casts  ;  the  Alumni  Hall  (on  the  N.  W.  cor.),  used  for 
the  annual  examinations  and  graduates'  meetings ;  and  the  dormitories, 
Farnam  Hall,  Bur  fee  Hall,  Lcmrance  Hall,  and  Wei  eh  Hcdl,  with  the 
^  Battell  Chapel  (on  the  X.  E.  cor.).  In  Elm  St.,  close  by,  are  the  two 
handsome  buildings  of  the  Divinity  School,  with  the  dainty  little  Mar- 
quand  Chapel  and  the  Bacon  Memorial  Library  between ;  near  by  in  Elm 
St.  is  the  (jryranasium.  At  the  head  of  College  St.  is  Sheffield  Hcdl,  and 
in  Prospect  St.  is  North  Sheffield  Hcdl,  where  the  engineering  and  physics 
have  their  departments,  containing  the  laboratories  and  collections  of 
the  Sheffield  Scientific  School.  The  Sheffield  residence  in  Hillhouse  Ave. 
has  been  acquired  by  the  University,  and  contains  the  biological  depart- 
ment. Beyond  in  Prospect  St.  is  the  Yale  Observatory,  containing  a 
6-inch  heliometer  and  an  8-inch  equatorial  instrument.  In  the  ^  Pea- 
hody  Museum,  of  which  only  the  S.  wing  has  been  built,  cor.  Elm  and 
High  Sts.,  are  the  collections  of  the  University  in  geology,  mineralogy, 
and  zoology,  including  the  famous  paleontological  collection  of  Prof. 
Othniel  C.  Marsh.  The  Sloane  Phydcal  Laboratory  is  in  Library  St. ; 
the  Kent  Chemical  Laboratory,  cor.  High  and  Library  Sts.  *  Dxcight 
Hall  is  an  elegant  edifice  that  was  buiit  for  the  use  of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
of  the  college.  The  Athletic  Grounds,  about  1|  mile  from  the  college 
campus  on  the  Derby  turnpike,  are  very  large.  The  halls  of  the  several 
secret  societies  are  scattered  through  the  city,  and  are  of  unique  archi- 
tecture. There  are  numerous  industries  in  New  Haven,  and  one  of  the 
most  interesting  features  is  the  Winchester  Firearms  Factory. 

The  Old  Burying -Ground  (on  Grove  St.,  near  High)  coutains  many 
interesting  and  venerable  monuments,  and  the  Evergreen  Cemetery  (on 
the  bank  of  West  River)  is  tastefully  adorned.  Sachemh  Wood  (the 
Hillhouse  residence),  at  the  head  of  Hillhouse  Ave.,  is  a  pleasant  spot, 
and  Lake  Whitney  is  a  favorite  resort  for  boating.  One  of  the  most 
popular  drives  is  down  the  E.  side  of  the  harbor  to  Fort  Hale,  an  old 
ruin  dating  from  1814,  whence  there  is  a  fine  view.  This  is  now  in- 
cluded in  the  park  system,  and  is  connected  by  a  drive  with  the  other 
parks.  Rising  above  the  plain  near  the  city  are  the  lofty  promontories 
known  as  East  and  West  Rocks.  East  Rock  (reached  by  cars)  is  360 
feet  high,  and  commands  a  wide  and  beautiful  view.  Three  hundred 
and  fifty  acres  of  it  have  been  laid  out  ])y  the  city  as  a  park,  and  it  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  country.  On  the  summit  of  the  Rock  is  the 
Soldiers'  Monument,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $50,000,  the  lookout  from  the 
top  of  it  being  480  ft.  above  Mill  River,  which  winds  about  the  foot  of 
the  Rock.  West  Rock  is  400  ft.  high.  On  the  top  there  is  a  group  of 
bowlders  called  the  "Judges'  Cave,"  because  GofPe  and  Whalley,  two  of 
the  judges  of  King  Charles  I  of  England,  were  secreted  here  for  a  while 
in  1661.  Near  the  base  of  the  rock  on  the  N.  are  Wintergreen  Fall 
and  Wintergreen  Lake.  On  the  road  thither  is  the  Sptringside  Alms- 
house, which  cost  |200,000.     Savin  Rock,  a  bathing-place,  with  summer 


80  NEW   YORK   TO   BOSTOif.  [Route  11. 

hotels,  on  Long  Island  Sound,  4  miles  S.  W.  of  the  city,  is  a  popular 
resort  (reached  by  cars  from  the  Green). 

The  first  important  station  beyond  New  Haven  is  Wallingford  (86 
miles),  an  important  manufacturing  town.  Meriden  (92  miles),  Berlin 
(99  miles),  and  Neioington  (105  miles)  are  the  other  principal  stations 
before  reaching  Hartford  (110  miles). 

Hartford. 

Hotels,  etc. — The  Allyn  House,  the  City  Hotel,  the  Hotel  Capitol,  the  Hotel 
Heuhlein,  and  the  United  States  Hotel  are  the  leading  houses.  The  street-car 
system  runs  to  West  Hartford,  East  Hartford,  Parkvihe,  Wethersfield,  and 
through  the  principal  streets  of  the  city.  Carriages  charge  50c.  for  one  or  two 
passengers  to  any  point  within  the  city  limits.  Steamboats  run  to  New  York 
daily.  The  Post-  0;^ce  is  in  City  HaU  Sq.  Railroads  centering  at  Hartford  are 
Va.Q  New  York,  Neiv  Haven  &  Hartford  B.  R.,  and  its  Valley  Div.,  rnnmng  to 
Sayhrook  Junction,  Neiv  York  &  New  England  E.  E.,  and  the  Central  New 
England  &  Western  E.  E. 

Hartford,  the  capital  of  Connecticut,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  sloop 
navigation  on  the  Connecticut  River,  50  miles  from  Long  Island  Sound. 
It  had  a  population  in  1890  of  53,230,  and,  besides  an  immense  manu- 
facturing business,  is  one  of  the  great  centers  of  fire  and  life  insurance, 
the  assets  of  the  various  companies  being  $162,000,000.  Its  manu- 
factures include  iron  and  brass  ware,  bicycles,  steam-engines,  machin- 
ery, tools,  sewing-machines,  fire-arms,  silver-plated  ware,  stone-ware, 
woolens,  tobacco,  etc.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  comprises  an 
area  of  about  10  square  miles,  intersected  by  Park  River,  which  is 
spanned  by  numerous  bridges.  Main  St.,  running  N.  and  S.,  is  the 
leading  thoroughfare.  State  and  Asylum  Sts,  are  active  business  streets. 
In  the  outskirts  are  many  tasteful  villas,  and  the  city  as  a  whole  is  re- 
markably well  built. 

The  Union  Depot  is  a  fine  structure,  designed  by  Henry  H.  Richard- 
son. S.  of  the  depot,  in  the  bend  of  Park  River,  is  the  beautiful 
*Bushiiell  Park  (46  acres).  At  its  entrance  is  a  Memorial  Arch, 
erected  in  1885  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  and  sailors  who  fell  dur- 
ing the  civil  war.  Also  in  the  park  is  a  bronze  statue  of  General  Israel 
Putnam,  8  ft.  high,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  costing  $14,000,  and  one  to  Dr. 
Horace  Wells,  a  discoverer  of  anaesthesia,  that  cost  $10,000.  In  the 
park  is  the  *  State-House,  of  marble,  300  ft.  long  by  200  ft.  wide 
and  250  ft.  high  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  completed  in  18*78  at  a  cost,  in- 
cluding the  site,  of  $3,000,000.  Besides  chambers  for  the  two  Houses 
of  the  Legislature,  it  contains  rooms  for  various  State  Departments  and 
officials,  the  Supreme  Court,  and  the  State  Library,  one  of  the  largest 
law-libraries  in  the  country.  In  the  Senate-chamber  hangs  the  famous 
portrait  of  Washington  by  Gilbert  Stuart,  purchased  from  the  artist,  in 
1800,  by  the  State.  In  the  office  of  the  Secretary  of  State  hangs  the 
charter  given  to  the  colony  by  Charles  II  of  England.  Near  the  park 
is  the  High-School,  a  very  handsome  building,  which  cost  $250,000.  In 
Asylum  St.,  near  the  depot,  is  the  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dtimh  ; 
it  was  founded  in  181*7,  and  was  the  first  institution  of  the  kind  in 
America.     The  Hartford  Theological  Seminary  occupies  fine  buildings 


Route  11.]  NEW   YORK   TO   BOSTON.  81 

just  W.  of  the  High-School.  The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  stands  on 
elevated  ground  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  city.  The  Hartford  Hospital^ 
in  Hudson  St.  near  the  Retreat,  is  a  handsome  stone  edifice.  The 
Hartford  Orphan  Asylum^  a  fine  building  in  the  modern  English  style, 
stands  just  W.  of  the  Capitol,  and  the  Old  PeopHeh  Home  in  Jefferson 
St.,  is  of  interest.  State-House  Squai^e,  in  the  center  of  the  city,  is  the 
site  of  the  Old  State-House^  erected  in  1794,  which  building,  in  the  Gre- 
cian style,  is  noAv  occupied  as  the  City  Hall  of  Hartford.  In  the  same 
square  is  the  Fost-Ofjice  Building^  also  occupied  by  the  U.  S.  Court, 
the  Custom-House,  and  Internal  Revenue  Collector's  Office.  The 
Cheney  Building  (cor.  Main  and  Temple  Sts.),  the  Phoenix  Bank  Build- 
ing^ the  Hartford  Fire  Ins.  Building.,  the  Connecticut  Mutual  Life 
Ins.  Co.  (opposite  State-House  Square)  and  the  Etna  Life  (in  Main 
St.)  are  very  striking.  The  Courant  Building.,  occupied  by  the  Hart- 
ford Courant.,  the  oldest  newspaper  in  the  United  States,  established 
in  1764,  is  in  State  St.,  opposite  the  Post-Office.  The  State  Arsenal  is 
in  North  Main  St.,  and  is  a  fine  edifice.  The  Opera-House  is  at  395 
Main  St..  The  Wadsworth  Athenceuni,  in  Main  St.,  contains  the  Wat- 
kinson  Free  Library  of  Reference,  the  Hartford  Library,  and  the  Library 
of  the  Connecticut  Historical  Society,  in  all  about  100,000  volumes. 
In  the  same  building  can  be  seen  the  rich  collection  of  the  Connecticut 
Historical  Society,  from  9.30  a.  m.  to  4.30  p.  m.,  daily,  except  Sunday; 
also  a  good  collection  of  paintings  and  statuary,  from  9  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m,, 
Monday  and  Tuesday  free.  The  Hartford  Club  occupies  an  old  colo- 
nial mansion  at  33  Prospect  St. 

Among  the  36  churches  are  the  *  Church  of  the  Good  Shep- 
herd (Episcopal),  erected  by  Mrs.  Samuel  Colt  as  a  memorial  of  her 
husband  and  children ;  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  cor.  Main  and  Church 
Sts. ;  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal),  the  Fark  Congregational.,  Fearl  St. 
Congregational.,  and  Asylum  Hill  Congregational  Churchy  First  {Cen- 
ter) Congregational  Church.,  the  Second  (South)  Congregational  Church., 
the  South  Baptist,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  in  Farmington 
Ave.  The  buildings  of  *  Trinity  College  stand  on  Rocky  Hill, 
about  a  mile  S.  of  the  Capitol.  When  completed,  they  will  form  a  quad- 
rangle 1,050  ft.  long  and  376  ft.  wide,  inclosing  3  courts  containing  an 
area  of  4  acres.  The  architecture  is  Early  English,  the  design  of  Will- 
iam Surges,  of  London.  The  grounds  (80  acres)  are  handsomely  adorned. 
There  are  20  instructors  and  124  students. 

CoWs  Patent  Fire-arms  Manufactory  is  located  on  the  banks  of  Con- 
necticut River,  in  the  S.  E.  portion  of  the  city.  The  grounds  extend  from 
the  river  to  Wethersfield  Ave.,  upon  which  stands  the  Colt  mansion 
("  Armsmear" ),  surrounded  by  immense  greenhouses,  graperies,  etc. 
The  Pratt  &  Whitney  Co.,  whose  tools  are  famous  the  world  over,  have 
their  plant  in  Hartfoi'd.  "Mark  Twain"  has  a  handsome  residence  in 
Farmington  Ave.  Close  by  are  the  houses  of  Charles  Dudby  Warner, 
Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  and  Mrs.  Isabella  Beecher  Hooker.  The 
Ancient  Burying- Ground,  containing  the  ashes  of  the  first  settlers,  is  in 
the  rear  of  Center  Church,  in  Main  St.  Cedar  Hill  Cem.eiery  should  be 
visited  to  see  the  Colt,  the  Beach,  the  Morgan,  and  other  monuments, 


82  NEW    YOEK    TO   BOSTON.  [Route  11. 

and  the  fine  prospect  over  the  surrounding  country.  The  Old  North 
and  Spring  Grove  Cemeteries  are  worth  visiting.  The  favorite  drives 
in  the  vicinity  of  Hartford  are  to  Tumble-Down  Brook,  8  m.  W.,  on  the 
Albany  road ;  to  Talcott  Mountain,  9  m.  W. ;  to  the  Reservoirs,  on  the 
Farmington  road ;  to  Prospect  Hill ;  and  to  Wethersfielcl  (4  m.  S.),  the 
most  ancient  town  on  the  river.  Charter-Oak  Trotting  Park,  one  of 
the  famous  race-courses  in  the  country,  is  near  Hartford.  East  Hart- 
ford (reached  by  a  long  bridge)  contains  some  quaint  old  houses,,  and 
the  long  street  shaded  by  elms  for  miles  makes  a  very  enjoyable  drive. 

Between  Hartford  and  Boston  the  only  places  requiring  mention  are 
Springfield  (136  miles)  and  Worcester  (190  miles),  both  in  Massachu- 
setts. Springfield  {Massasoit  House,  Haynes'  Hotel,  Hotel  Warwick, 
Cooleifs  Hotel)  is  one  of  the  prettiest  among  the  smaller  American  cit- 
ies, and  is  noted  for  the  great  variety  of  its  industries.  The  New  York, 
New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  has  its  northern  terminus  here,  connect- 
ing at  its  magnificent  station,  which  was  one  of  the  last  works  of  H. 
H.  Richardson,  with  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R.  going  east  and  west. 
The  Connecticut  River  R.  R.  i-uns  north  from  Springfield,  making  con- 
nection at  South  Yernon  with  the  Central  Yermont  system  for  Canada 
and  the  White  Mountains.  The  population  according  to  the  census  of 
1890  was  44,179.  It  is  situated  on  the  Connecticut  River,  26  miles  N. 
of  Hartford,  is  well  built,  and  its  wide  streets  are  shaded  with  elms  and 
maples.  It  rises  from  the  Connecticut  River  in  terraces,  on  which  the 
many  residences  are  located,  overlooking  the  wide  valley,  while  in  the 
distance  are  the  elevations  of  Mt.  Holyoke  and  Mt.  Tom,  making  its 
situation  one  of  considerable  beauty.  The  principal  point  of  interest  is 
the  *  United  States  Armory,  located  in  spacious  grounds  on  Armory 
Hill  (reached  by  State  St.),  and  commanding  fine  views.  This  establish- 
ment employs  700  hands,  and  175,000  stand  of  arms  are  kept  con- 
stantly in  stock.  During  the  civil  war  the  works  were  run  night  and 
day,  and  over  800,000  guns  were  made,  at  a  cost  of  $12,000,000.  It  is 
the  largest  establishment  for  the  manufacture  of  small-arms  by  the 
Government  in  the  United  States.  The  City  Hcdl  contains  a  public  hall 
seating  2,700  persons.  The  *  Court-House  is  a  massive  granite  struct- 
ure costing  $200,000,  designed  by  H.  H.  Richardson ;  and  the  building 
of  the  City  Library  (containing  80,000  volumes  and  a  museum  of  natu- 
ral history)  is  very  handsome.  Court  Square  contains  a  Soldiers'  Monu- 
ment,  given  to  the  city  by  Gurdon  Bell ;  also  a  statue  of  Miles  Morgan, 
an  early  settler,  erected  by  Junius  S.  Morgan.  There  are  also  several 
fine  churches,  of  which  the  most  noteworthy  are  the  *  Church  of  the 
Unity  (State  St.),  the  Memorial  Chiaxh,  South  Church,  North  Church 
(Congregational),  Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  tlxe  Cathedral  of  St. 
Michael  (Roman  Catholic),  and  Christ  (Episcopal)  Church,  a  fine  brown- 
stone  edifice  ;  its  Parish  House  contsiins  a  fine  painting  in  glass  of  Mary 
Magdalen  at  the  Tomb,  by  John  La  Farge.  There  are  two  Cemeteries 
in  the  city,  both  beautiful  by  the  diversity  of  the  surface  and  their  nu- 
merous shade-trees.  In  Peabody  Cemetery  Dr.  J,  G.  Holland,  Samuel 
Bowles,  and  others,  are  buried.  Hampden  Park  has  fine  race-tracks. 
The  Spjring field  Republican  is  published  here,  and  under  the  editorship 


Eoute  11.]  NEW   YORK   TO   BOSTON.  83 

of  Samuel  Bowles  became  one  of  the  famous  newspapers  of  the  coun- 
try. Forest  Park,  to  the  S.  of  the  city,  is  the  gift  of  0.  H.  Green- 
leaf,  E.  H.  Barry  (who  donated  his  estate  for  this  purpose),  and  other 
citizens.  It  contains  400  acres,  and  includes  extensive  ponds,  in  which 
are  planted  the  Egyptian  lotus  and  other  rare  aquatic  plants.  Stearns 
Park  contains  a  statue  of  The  Puritan,  by  Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  which 
is  a  memorial  to  Deacon  Samuel  Chapin,  one  of  the  first  settlers  of 
Springfield  and  the  ancestor  of  all  the  Chapins  in  the  United  States. 
At  Hampden  Park  the  annual  game  of  football  between  Yale  and  Har- 
vard Universities  is  played,  and  it  is  also  the  resort  of  frequent  bicycle 
and  other  races. 

Worcester  {Pay  State,  Colonnade,  Waldo,  and  Lincoln)  is  a  large 
manufacturing  center,  the  second  city  in  Massachusetts  in  wealth  and 
population,  w'hich  celebrated  in  1884  its  tw^o  hundredth  anniversary.  The 
railroads  which  lead  to  and  through  the  city  are  the  Boston  &  Albany, 
Worcester  Div.  of  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.,  Boston 
&  Maine,  New  York  &  New  England,  and  Fitchburg,  giving  large  facili- 
ties for  business  and  travel.  An  electric  railway  runs  to  Spencer,  a  dis- 
tance of  12  miles,  and  another  line  is  contemplated  to  go  to  Clinton,  lY 
miles.  Its  population  in  1890  was  84,655,  and  its  principal  manufactures 
are  of  boots  and  shoes,  machinery  and  tools,  a  great  variety  of  metal  and 
w-ood  products,  stone-ware,  cars,  carpets,  etc.  The  principal  staple  is  iron 
and  steel  wire,  which  in  two  establishments  alone  gives  employment  to 
over  4,000  workmen.  The  city  is,  in  the  main,  regularly  laid  out  with 
pleasant  streets.  Main  St.  being  the  leading  thoroughfare.  The  Union 
Passenger  Station,  designed  by  H.  H.  Richardson,  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
New  England.  Near  the  center  of  the  city  is  the  Common,  on  which  are 
a  ^'Soldiers''  Monument,  designed  by  Randolph  Rogers,  and  a  monument 
to  Colonel  Timothy  Bigelow,  a  Revolutionary  oificer.  Among  the  public 
buildings  are  two  county  Court-Houses,  adjacent  to  each  other  on  Lin- 
coln Square,  the  City  Hall,  the  Hirjli- School,  the  Young  MerCs  Chris- 
tian Association^  and  Mechanics'  Hall  (seating  over  2,000).  Near  the 
Court-Houses  is  the  building  of  the  ^  Atnerican  Antiquarian  Society, 
containing  a  library  of  85,000  volumes  and  a  cabinet  of  antiquities. 
It  has  constructed  an  additional  building  in  Salisbury  St.,  on  ground 
given  by  Stephen  Salisbury.  This  is  the  resort  of  students  from  all  por- 
tions of  the  country,  and  is  specially  rich  in  books  and  pamphlets  bearing 
on  the  history  of  America.  The  Pree  Public  Library  (in  Elm  St.)  has 
70,000  volumes  and  a  reading-room  (open  from  9  A.  M.  to  9  p.  m.). 
The  Worcester  Natu7xd  History  Society  (in  Foster  St.)  has  interesting 
collections.  Worcester  is  justly  proud  of  its  educational  institutions, 
among  which  are  Clark  tiniversity,  a  post-graduate  institution,  and 
perhaps  the  only  one  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States,  the  College  of 
the  Holy  Cross  (Roman  Catholic),  the  Worcester  Polytechnic  Institute, 
the  State  Normal  School,  the  Worcester  Academy,  the  Highland  Military 
Academy,  and  the  Oread  Institute  for  young  ladies.  All  these  have  fine 
buildings.  The  *  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  in  the  eastei'n  part  of  the 
city,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $1,350,000.  An  elaborate  park  system  has 
been  laid  out  surrounding  the  city.     On  the  W.  is  Lincoln  Park,  with 


84  NEW    TOKK    TO    BOSTON".  [Route   12. 

interesting  aquatic,  horticultural,  and  arboricultural  features,  while  on 
the  N.  W.  is  Salisbury  Park^  given  to  the  city  by  Stephen  Salisbury. 
Also  on  the  N.  is  North  Park^  and  on  the  E.  side  is  Normal  EiU.  The 
city  is  in  the  midst  of  a  region  full  of  charming  resorts  for  summer 
tourists.  Among  them  may  be  specially  mentioned  Lake  Quitisigamond, 
connected  with  Worcester  by  an  electric  railway,  and  Monnt  Wadmsett 
Beyond  Worcester  the  train  passes  for  25  miles  through  a  thickly 
settled  region,  with  numerous  small  towns,  and  stops  at  8.  Framing- 
ham,  a  thriving  manufacturing  village,  and  center  of  an  important  sys- 
tem of  railways.  Four  miles  beyond,  near  the  foot  of  Cochituate  Lake, 
whence  Boston  draws  its  water-supply,  is  the  large  village  of  Natick, 
celebrated  for  its  shoe-manufactures.  Next  come  the  wealthy  suburban 
to^vns  of  Wellesley,  Newton,  Brighton,  and  Brookline,  and  the  train  en- 
ters Boston  over  the  Back  Bay  lands. 

12.  New  York  to  Boston  via  Provider^ce. 

The  ''Shore  Line  Route,"  composed  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hart- 
ford R.  R.  to  Providence,  and  thence  via  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  to  Boston, 
leaves  New  York  from  Grand  Central  Station,  and  Boston  at  Park  Square 
Station.  Express  trains  leave  either  city  at  10  a.  m.,  1  p.  m.,  5  p.  m.  (limited  ex- 
press), and  13  midnight ;  the  two  latter  trains  running  daily.  Drawing-room 
cars  are  attached  to  day  train,  and  sleeping-cars  to  night  trains.  Distance,  232 
miles  ;  fare,  %o. 

As  far  as  Neio  Haven  {'14,  miles)  this  route  is  identical  with  Route 
11.  Beyond  New  Haven  the  road  runs  close  along  the  shore  of  the 
Sound,  passing  several  popular  summer  resorts.  Branford  (82  miles) 
has  Avithin  its  limits  Branford  Point,  a  favorite  watering-place,  on  and 
near  which  are  several  large  summer  hotels.  Guilford  (90  miles)  is  a 
pretty  town,  built  round  a  finely  shaded  public  square,  and  noted  as 
the  birthplace  of  Fitz-Greene  Halleek,  the  poet,  who  died  there  Nov. 
lY,  186Y.  Guilford  Point,  S.  of  the  village,  has  a  number  of  hotels 
and  is  a  popular  summer  resort.  Sayhrook  Junction  (105  miles)  is 
an  old  and  quaintly  rural  village,  whence  the  Valley  Div.  runs  S.  to 
the  venerable  town  of  Old  Sayhrook,  and  to  the  shore.  Shortly  be- 
yond Saybrook  the  train  crosses  the  Connecticut  River,  and,  passing 
several  small  villages,  of  which  East  Lyme  is  a  place  of  some  resort, 
soon  reaches  New  liOndon  (124  miles),  a  city  of  13, ^57  inhabitants, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  river  Thames,  and  possess- 
ing one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  United  States.  Above  the  city,  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  river,  is  the  U.  S.  Navy-  Yard,  and  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  Thames,  below  the  city,  are  Fort  Trumbull  and  Fort  Griswold. 
New  London  contains  numerous  silk  and  woolen  mills,  and  manufact- 
ures machinery  and  hardware  largely.  It  was  formerly  a  seat  of  seal 
and  whale  fishing.  A  City  Hall  of  polished  freestone,  a  granite  Custom- 
House,  several  fine  churches  and  a  great  number  of  costly  residences,  are 
among  the  architectural  features  of  the  city.  Cedar  Grove  Cemetery  is 
pleasantly  situated,  and  the  ancient  burial-ground  of  the  town  is  of 
special  interest  to  the  antiquarian.  The  Crocker  House,  in  the  city,  is 
first-class ;  and  2  miles  S.  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames  is  the  famous 


Route  12.]  NEW   TOEK   TO   BOSTON.  85 

"  Peqnot  House^  accommodatino;  500  guests,  a  fashionaWe  summer  re- 
sort along  the  Sound  shore.  Across  the  river  from  New  London  is 
Groton,  where  is  a  tall  granite  monument  commemorating  the  cruel 
Fort  Griswold  massacre  (Sept.  6,  1781).  Stonington  (135  miles)  is 
the  last  station  in  Connecticut,  and  is  much  frequented  in  summer.  It 
is  a  quiet,  sleepy  town,  with  quaint  houses  surrounded  by  beautiful 
grounds,  and  with  notably  good  facilities  for  fishing,  bathing,  and  boat- 
ing. The  Hoxie  House  is  a  w^ell-patronized  hotel,  and  there  are  several 
smaller  ones.  The  "  Stonington  Line  "  of  steamers  plies  daily  to  and 
from  New  York.  Steamers  also  run  to  Block  Island^  on  which  are  sum- 
mer hotels;  and  several  tinnes  daily  to  *  Watch  Hill  Point,  which, 
after  Newport  and  Nari'agansett  Pier,  is  the  most  popular  summer  re- 
sort in  Rhode  Island.  The  Point  is  also  reached  by  steamer  from  New 
London  and  from  Westerly  on  the  Providence  Div.  of  the  New  York, 
New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  It  is  the  extreme  S.  W.  tip  of  Rhode 
Island,  has  a  superb  beach,  and  is  surrounded  by  attractive  scenery. 
The  leading  hotels  are  the  Atlantic,  the  Larkin,  the  Ocean,  the  Plimp- 
ton, and  the  Watch-Hill. 

From  Stonington  to  Providence  the  distance  is  50  miles,  and  there 
are  a  number  of  prosperous  little  towns  on  the  way,  none  of  which 
require  special  mention.  At  Kinciston  (158  miles  from  New  York)  a 
branch  line  diverges  to  ^IVarragansett  Pier,  next  to  Newport  the 
chief  summer  resort  in  Rhode  Island,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Narra- 
gansett  Bay,  and  possessing  one  of  the  finest  beaches  on  the  Atlantic 
coast.  Its  Casino,  by  McKim,  Mead  &  White,  is  a  noteworthy  build- 
ing. Fishing  and  boating  are  excellent,  and  there  are  fine  drives  and 
views.  The  leading  hotels  are  the  Atwood,  the  Atlantic,  the  Conti- 
nentcd,  the  Delavan,  Greenus  Inn,  Hotel  Berwick,  Hotel  Gladstone,  the 
Massasoit,  the  Matheivson,  the  McSparron,  the  Metatoxet,  the  Ocean, 
the  Revere,  the  Rockingliam.  The  Tower  Hill  House  is  1|-  mile  from 
the  Pier  on  Narragansett  Heights,  and  150  ft.  above  the  bay.  At 
Wickford  Junction  (165  miles  from  New  York)  connection  is  made 
with  the  Neioport  &  Wickford  R.  R.  and  Steamboat  Bine. 

Providence. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Narragansett,  on  Broad  St.,  and  the  Dorrance,  on  West- 
minster St..  are  the  best.  The  City  and  the  Central  are  good.  Street-cars  run 
to  aU  parts  of  the  city  and  to  the  adjoining  towns.  Direct  communication  over 
CoUege  Hill  is  made  by  a  cable-road,  the  first  operated  in  New  England.  It 
starts  at  Market  Square  and  extends  to  Eed  Bridge.  Electric-cars  run  from 
Dorrance  St.,  cor.  Broad,  to  Pawtiixet.  Steamboats  daily  to  New  York,  twice 
daily  to  Newport,  tri-weekly  to  Block  Island  in  summer,  and  hourly  to  many 
shore  resorts. 

Providence,  the  second  city  of  New  England  in  wealth  and  popu- 
lation, and  the  chief  city  and  one  of  the  capitals  of  Rhode  Island,  is 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  northern  arm  of  Narragansett  Bay,  known 
as  Providence  River.  The  river  extends  to  the  center  of  the  city,  mak- 
ing water  communication  to  all  points  of  easy  access.  The  city  extends 
easterly  to  the  Seekonk  River,  on  which  the  Narragansett  Boat-Club 
has  a  fine  boat-house.     Providence  was  founded  in  1636  by  Roger  Will- 


86  NEW   YORK   TO  BOSTON.  [Route  12. 

iams,  who  had  been  banished  from  Massachusetts  on  account  of  his 
religious  opinions.  It  was  incorporated  in  1832,  with  a  population  of 
17,000,  and  in  1890  had  a  population  of  132,146.  Providence  is  noted 
for  its  fine  colonial  mansions,  among  which  are  the  Dorr  residence,  in 
Benefit  St. ;  that  of  Henry  G.  Russell,  in  Brown  St. ;  that  of  the  late 
John  Carter  Brown,  in  Benefit  St. ;  that  of  Edward  Carrington,  in  Will- 
iam St. ;  and  that  of  Mrs.  WilUam  Gammell,  in  Power  St.  The  Rhode 
Island  Wheelmen's  Club  occupies  the  upper  portion  of  a  colonial  build- 
ing in  S.  Main  St.,  the  lower  portion  of  which  contains  the  offices  of 
the  Providence  National  Bank,  which  celebrated  its  centennial  anniver- 
sary in  1891.  The  interior  of  this  building  is  well  worth  a  visit.  The 
manufactures  of  Providence  are  very  extensive,  including  "prints,"  cot- 
ton and  woolen  goods,  iron,  jewelry,  etc.  Among  these  are  some  which 
are  famous  throughout  the  countr}" — the  Gorham  Manufacturing  Co.''s 
Wo7'ks,  the  American  Screw  Co.^  the  Brovm  &  SJiarpe  Marmfactitring 
Co.^  i\xe  Providence  Steam-Engine  Co.^  the  Corliss  Steam- Engine  WorJcs, 
the  Armington  (&  Sims  Engine  Co.,  the  Hew  England  Butt  Co.,  the 
Rhode  Island  Locomotive  Works,  the  Nicholson  File  Co.,  etc.  Provi- 
dence is  the  center  of  more  than  60  woolen  and  100  cotton  mills,  and 
has  40  banks. 

The  surface  of  the  city  is  very  irregular,  and  the  sides  and  summits 
of  the  hills  are  covered  with  dwelling-houses,  surrounded  by  ornamental 
gardens.  Westminster  St.  is  the  main  business  thoroughfare,  and  ex- 
tending from  it  to  Weybosset  St.  is  the  A  rcade,  the  largest  of  the  kind 
in  the  United  States,  225  ft.  long,  80  ft.  wide,  and  3  stories  high. 
Near  by  is  the  massive  granite  building  of  the  Custom-House  and  Post- 
Office.  The  State-House  is  a  plain  brick  building  at  the  corner  of  N. 
Main  and  S.  Court  Sts.  The  tfnion  Station  is  a  large  and  handsome 
brick  building  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  fronting  on  Exchange  Place.  The 
improving  of  the  terminal  facilities  of  the  railroads  has  led  to  the  con- 
struction of  an  additional  station.  At  the  head  of  Exchange  Place 
stands  the  *  City  Hall,  one  of  the  finest  municipal  buildings  in  New 
England,  erected  at  a  cost  of  over  $1,000,000.  Directly  in  front  of  it 
is  the  *  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Monument,  erected  by  the  State 
in  memory  of  its  citizens  (1,741  in  number)  who  fell  in  the  civil  war. 
It  was  designed  by  Randolph  Rogers,  cost  $60,000,  and  consists  of  a 
base  of  blue  granite  with  5  bronze  siatues ;  while  at  the  foot  of  Ex- 
change Place  is  a  fine  equestrian  statue  in  bronze  of  General  Ambrose 
E.  Burnside.  The  County  Court-House  is  an  imposing  edifice,  cor. 
College  and  Benefit  Sts.  The  Opera-House  and  the  Butler  Exchange  (in 
Westminster  St.)  are  fine  structures.  The  Rhode  Island  Hospital  Trust 
Co.  and  the  Burrill  Building  are  large  commercial  structures  in  West- 
minster St.  Of  the  churches  the  most  noteworthy  are  *  St.  Stepjhen''s 
(Episcopal),  with  rich  stained-glass  windows;  Grace  (Episcopal),  with 
an  exceedingly  graceful  spire ;  the  quaint  old  Fij^st  Baptist,  belonging 
to  the  oldest  Baptist  Society  in  America,  founded  in  1639;  the  Church 
of  the  Messiah,  near  Olne^^ille  Square,  is  a  memorial  to  Arthur  Gam- 
mell, erected  by  his  mother;  the  Roger  Williams  Baptist,  the  Union 
Congregational,  the  First  Universalist,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  churches 


Route  12.']  NEW   YORK    TO   BOSTON.  87 

of  St.  Joseph  and  St.  Mary.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul 
is  in  High  St. 

On  the  heights  (Prospect  St.)  in  the  E.  section  of  the  city  are  the 
spacious  grounds  and  substantial  buildings  of  *  Brown  University, 
an  old  and  important  institution  of  learning,  founded  in  1Y64.  Its 
library  numbers  over  68,000  volumes,  and  is  housed  in  a  handsome  fire- 
proof building,  which  has  room  for  100,000  volumes  more.  The  Sayles 
Memorial  Hall  is  a  beautiful  building,  erected  by  Hon.  W.  F.  Sayles, 
in  memory  of  his  son,  who  died  while  a  student  of  the  University. 
Slater  Hall,  a  stately  building,  erected  by  H.  N.  Slater,  is  used  as  a  dor- 
mitory, while  Wilson  Hall  is  another  fine  building,  founded  by  George 
r.  Wilson.  The  Museum  of  Natural  History  is  rich  in  specimens,  and 
the  Art  Collection  includes  some  good  portraits.  The  grounds  comprise 
16  acres,  and  are  shaded  with  grand  old  elms.  The  Lyman  G-ymna- 
sium,  recently  erected,  is  a  most  complete  structure  of  its  kind.  The 
Friends'  School,  an  institution  for  both  sexes,  is  on  a  hill  overlooking 
Seekonk  River,  and  from  its  cupola  can  be  seen  nearly  every  prominent 
place  in  the  State.  It  was  founded  in  1819,  by  Moses  Brown,  and  is 
under  the  care  of  the  Friends''  Yearly  Meeting.  The  Rhode  Island 
Historical  Society  has  a  fine  brick  and  granite  building,  recently  much 
enlarged,  opposite  the  University  grounds,  in  which  are  a  valuable  li- 
brary and  some  interesting  historical  relics.  The  Providence  Public 
Library  (Snow  and  Moulton  Sts.)  has  45,000  volumes  and  many  pam- 
phlets, including  a  special  collection  of  8,000  pamphlets,  reports,  etc.,  on 
slavery  and  the  rebelhon,  from  the  library  of  the  late  C.  Fiske  Harris. 
Providence  has  long  been  noted  for  its  valuable  private  hbraries.  Chief 
among  them  is  that  of  the  late  John  Carter  Brown,  famous  for  its 
"  Americana."  The  *  Athenaeum  (cor.  College  and  Benefit  Sts.)  con- 
tains a  reading-room,  a  library  of  50,000  volumes,  and  some  valuable 
paintings,  among  which  are  portraits  by  Allston  and  Sir  Joshua  Rey- 
nolds, and  Malbone's  masterpiece  ("The  Hours").  The  Hope  Cluh 
has  an  elegant  home  in  the  aristocratic  quarter  of  the  city ;  and  the 
Providence  Art-Club  has  a  charming  club-house,  with  picture-gallery, 
reading-rooms,  etc.  The  Young  MenJs  Christian  Association  has  an  ele- 
gant brown-stone  building  that  cost  over  S200,000.  The  Butler  HospAtal 
for  the  Insane  is  on  the  W.  bank  of  Seekonk  River ;  the  Dexter  Asy- 
lum for  the  Poor  is  situated  on  elevated  land  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  the 
city.  The  Rhode  Island  Hospitcd  has  stately  buildings  in  the  S.  part 
of  the  city.  The  Home  for  Aged  Women  is  in  the  S.  E.  part,  and  the 
Home  for  Aged  Men  in  the  S.  W,  part  of  the  city.  The  Stcde  Farm, 
in  Cranston,  comprises  500  acres,  and  contains  the  State  Prison,  Work- 
house, House  of  Correction,  Almshouse,  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane, 
and  Reform  School. 

There  are  several  public  squares  and  small  parks.  Roger  Williams 
Park  is  near  the  W.  shore  of  Narragansett  Bay,  in  the  S.  part  of  the 
city;  it  was  devised  to  the  city  in  18*71  by  Betsey  Williams,  a  descend- 
ant of  Roger  Williams,  and  to  whose  memory  a  large  bronze  statue  has 
been  erected.  Blackstotie  Park  is  one  of  the  new  parks.  Prospect  Ter- 
race, on  Congdon  St.,  commands  an  unrivaled  view  of  the  city.    *  S^van 


88  NEW    YOEK   TO   BOSTON.  [Eoute  13. 

Point  Cemetery,  tastefully  laid  out  and  ornamented,  is  on  the  W. 
bank  of  Seekonk  River,  near  the  Butler  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 

At  Cranston,  4  m.  W.  of  Providence,  is  the  famous  Narrcgansett 
Trotting  Park^  now  owned  by  the  R.  I.  Society  for  the  Encouragement 
of  Domestic  Industry,  whose  State  Fair  is  annually  held  there.  A 
favorite  drive  is  to  Hunts  If  ills  {2>j  miles),  where  there  is  a  beautiful 
brook  with  a  picturesque  little  cascade.  Pcmtuxet^  5  miles  from  the 
city  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Bay,  has  a  fine  beach  and  excellent  bath- 
ing. The  Conant  Thread  Co.  has  its  large  plant  here.  In  summer- 
time, steamers  leave  Providence  every  fifteen  minutes  for  the  various 
resorts  on  the  Bay,  and  4  times  daily  for  Newport.  Warivick  Neck 
(12  m.)  is  worthy  of  note  for  its  summer  residences.  Seaconnet  Point 
is  also  a  summer  resort,  with  cottages.  Its  reddish,  cliff-like  rocks  are 
frequently  chosen  as  subjects  by  artists.  Near  by  are  the  club-houses 
of  the  West  Island  Club.  *  Rocky  Point,  midway  between  Provi- 
dence and  Newport,  has  an  observatory,  with  an  extensive  view,  on  the 
summit  of  a  hill  near  by.  It  is  famous  for  its  clam-bakes,  sharing 
the  honor  with  Silver  Spring^  higher  up,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the 
Bay.  Squantuni^  near  Silver  Spring,  is  owned  by  the  Squantum 
Club,  has  been  fitted  up  at  an  expense  of  $60,000,  and  is  noted  for 
the  private  clam-bakes  of  the  Club.  The  Powham  Club  has  a  build- 
ing hei  e. 

Between  Providence  and  Boston  the  distance  is  44  miles,  and  en 
roiite  are  half  a  dozen  uninteresting  manufacturing  towns,  chief  among 
which  is  Pawtucket,  now  a  city,  5  miles  from  Providence.  Here  are 
made  immense  quantites  of  calico,  thread,  tacks,  rope,  braid,  etc.,  and 
there  is  a  fine  water-power.  As  the  train  nears  Boston  the  suburban 
villages  of  Hyde  Park  and  Roxbury  are  passed,  and  the  train  stops  at 
the  Park  Square  Station  on  Columbus  Ave.  near  the  Common. 

13.  New  York  to  Boston  via  "Air-Line  R.  E." 

This  route  is  composed  of  the  Ne^y  York  &  New  Haven  E.  E.  to  New  Haven ; 
the  Air  Line  Division  of  same  road  from  New  Haven  to  Willimantic  ;  and  the 
New  York  &  New  England  E.  E.  from  Willimantic  to  Boston.  Total  distance, 
213  miles  ;  time,  6  hrs. ;  fare,  $5.  It  is  the  shortest  route  between  New  York 
and  Boston.  Limited  express  trains  leave  New  York  or  Boston  at  3  p.  m.,  due 
at  I  ither  city  at  8.40  p.  m.,  with  complete  drawing-room  car  service  on  each 
train. 

As  far  as  New  Haven  this  route  is  identical  with  Route  11.  Wal- 
ling ford  (12  miles)  is  described  on  p.  80.  Middletown  {Kilhourn^ 
McDonough  ;  24  miles  from  New  Haven,  98  from  New  York)  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  Connecticut,  with  a  population  in  1890  of 
9,013.  It  Hes  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River,  and  is  well 
built.  Main  St.  is  the  leading  business  thoroughfare,  and  High  St. 
is  lined  with  fine  residences.  Upon  an  eminence  overlooking  the  city 
(reached  by  High  St.)  stand  the  buildings  of  the  Wesleyan  University 
(Methodist),  the  most  striking  of  which  are  the  Memorial  Chapel,  Rich 
Hall,  and  Judd  Hall.  In  Rich  Hall  is  the  library  (25,000  volumes), 
and  in  Judd  Hall  some  rich  natural  history  cabinets.     The  *  view  from 


Route  IJf.]  NEW   TOEK   TO   BOSTON.  89 

the  tower  of  the  old  chapel  is  extremely  fine,  and  another  scarcely  in- 
ferior may  be  obtained  from  Indian  Hill  Cemetery^  which  contains  some 
handsome  monuments.  The  Berl-eley  Divinity  School  (Episcopal)  is 
located  in  Main  St. ;  its  chapel  is  an  exquisite  specimen  of  Gothic  ar- 
chitecture. The  extensive  buildings  of  the  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane 
stand  on  a  high  hill  S.  E.  of  the  city,  and  command  a  wide-extended 
view.  Willirnantic  (128  miles)  is  a  prosperous  manufacturing  village 
and  railroad  center,  where  are  produced  large  quantities  of  thread,  silk, 
cotton  goods,  etc.  (population,  8,648).  Putnam  (151  miles)  is  another 
thriving  manufacturing  town,  at  the  crossing  of  the  Norwich  Divis- 
ion. Daily  stages  run  from  Putnam  to  Woodstock  (Elmwood  HalJ)^ 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in  New  England,  delightfully  situ- 
ated amid  wonderfully  picturesque  scenery.  "  Its  like,"  says  Mr.  Beech- 
er,  "I  do  not  know  anywhere.  It  is  a  miniature  Mt.  Holyoke,  and  its 
prospect  the  Connecticut  Valley  in  miniature."  About  a  mile  from 
the  village  is  Woodstock  Lake,  skirted  by  primeval  woods  and  abound- 
ing in  fish.  At  E.  Thompson  (160  miles)  a  branch  line  diverges  to  the 
busy  town  of  Southbridge;  and  then  follow  in  rapid  succession  the 
stations  of  Blackstone  (1*77  miles),  Wadsivorth,  Franklin  (186  miles), 
and  Walfjole  (194  miles).  Passing  then  through  the  suburban  towns 
of  Dedham,  Hyde  Fark,  and  Dorchester,  the  train  stops  at  the  Boston 
depot  (foot  of  Summer  St.). 

14.  New  York  to  Boston,  via  New  York  &  Northern  and 
New  York  &  New  England  R.  Rs. 

This  route  is  by  Manhattan  Elevated  E.  E.  to  Harlem  Eiver,  N.  Y.  city  ; 
thence  via  New  York  City  &  Northern  E.  E.  to  Brewster  ;  and  thence  via  New 
York  &  New  England  E.  E.  to  Boston.  Fare  to  Boston,  %b  ;  time,  10  hours  ; 
distance.  245  miles.  Principal  stations,  South  Yonkers,  8  miles  ;  Pocantico 
Hills,  23  miles  ;  Mahopac.  44  miles  :  Carmel.  49  miles  ;  Breivster,  .54  miles  ; 
Danbury,  65  miles  ;  Waterbury,  95  miles  ;  Bristol.  110  miles  ;  New  Britain,  119 
miles  ;  Hartford,  128  miles  ;  Manchester,  136  miles  ;  Willirnantic,  159  miles. 
Thence  to  Boston,  see  Eoute  13. 

This  route  passes  through  populous  and  thrifty  districts  of  New 
York,  Connecticut,  and  Massachusetts.  Though  somewhat  longer  than 
rival  routes,  and  not  used  for  through  night-travel,  it  is  highly  attractive 
on  account  of  the  highly  cultivated  country  through  which  it  passes. 
Beyond  High  Bridge  (see  p.  21),  the  first  station  reached  is  South 
Fonkers,  described  in  Route  9.  Passing  through  a  number  of  small 
stations  the  train  reaches  Tarrytown  (see  p.  69),  where  it  has  three 
stopping-places.  Nine  miles  beyond  the  track  skirts  Croton  Lake,  which 
is  described  on  p.  69.  Small  stations  intervene  till  the  train  reaches 
Mahopjac,  where  passengers  for  the  beautiful  watering-place  of  LaJce 
Mahopjac  alight.  Carmel,  5  miles  beyond,  is  the  county-town  of  Put- 
nam Co.,  N.  Y.,  and  besides  the  Court-House,  has  several  banks,  news- 
paper-offices, seminaries,  and  two  excellent  hotels.  Here  is  Lalce  Gleneida, 
which  makes  the  place  attractive  to  summer  visitors.  A  run  of  5  miles 
brings  the  train  to  Brewster  (54  miles  from  New  York),  where  it  takes 
the  track  of  the  New  York  &  New  England  R.  R.,  which  runs  due  W. 


90  N-EW  YORK   TO   BOSTON.  [Route  U. 

to  Fishkill  Landing  on  the  Hudson  River.  Mill  Plain  is  a  small  station 
on  the  border-line  of  New  York  and  Connecticut. 

Five  miles  E.  is  the  borough  of  I>anbury  {Txvmer  House),  one  of 
the  county-towns  of  Fairfield  Co.,  Conn.,  with  a  population  of  16,552. 
The  place  is  historically  noted  as  having  been  burned  by  the  British  in 
11^1.  Here  is  the  crossing  of  the  Danbury  Div.  of  the  New  York, 
New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  It  is  noted  for  hat-manufactuiing,  in 
which  upward  of  $2,000,000  is  invested.  It  has  11  churches,  4  banks, 
3  newspapers,  and  several  excellent  hotels.  It  is  also  largely  patronized 
as  a  summer  resort  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  the  country,  a  charac- 
teristic, indeed,  of  the  route  of  the  New  York  &  New  England  R.  R.  in 
its  whole-  course  through  the  State.  At  Hawleyville,  6  miles  beyond, 
connection  is  made  with  the  Shepaug,  Litchfield  &  Northern  R.  R., 
which  runs  to  Litchfield  (see  Route  38). 

The  train,  passing  a  number  of  stations,  reaches  Waterbury 
{Cooley,  Frmiklin,  and  Scoville ;  95  miles).  This  city  had  a  population 
in  1890  of  28,646.  Connection  is  made  here  with  the  Naugatuck 
Div.  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R,  R.  It  contains  5 
banks,  several  famous  schools,  5  newspapers,  the  Bro9ison  Library  of 
40,000  volumes  (free),  a  handsome  City  Hall,  and  1 1  churches,  of  which 
St.  Joht's  Episcopal  Church  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  State, 
the  spire  being  200  ft.  high.  In  the  center  of  the  town  is  a  fine  pub- 
lic park,  whence  the  streets  radiate.  The  many  fine  private  residences 
embowered  in  shrubbery  attract  the  eye  of  the  stranger.  The  town  is 
the  great  center  for  the  manufacture  of  watches  (the  Waterbury  Co. 
turning  out  1,200  watches  a  day),  also  for  brass  and  German-silver 
works. 

Passing  four  unimportant  stations,  the  train  reaches  Fkdnville,  a 
small  manufacturing  town,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  North- 
ampton Div.  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  Five 
miles  E.  is  New  Britain  (119  miles),  with  a  population  in  1890  of 
19,007  {Hotel  Ruswin\  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Berlin  branch 
of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  The  building  of  the 
Connecticut  State  Normal  School  is  a  notable  structure.  The  town  has 
Y  churches,  2  banks,  a  public  library,  and  many  manufactories  of  hard- 
ware, jewelry,  locks,  etc.  The  Russell  <&  Erwin  Co.h  shops  occupy  5 
acres.  In  the  center  of  the  city  is  a  fine  public  park  of  72  acres.  Ten 
miles  beyond,  Hartford  (see  p.  80)  is  reached.  Eight  miles  farther  brings 
'the  traveler  to  Manchester  (136  miles),  which  has  a  population  of  8,222. 
There  are  important  manufactures  of  paper,  cotton,  woolen,  and  silk 
goods  here.  In  South  Manchester  is  Cheney  Bros.'s  celebrated  factory  of 
American  silks.  Nineteen  miles  E.  the  traveler  reaches  Witlimantic, 
159  miles.     Thence  the  route  is  the  same  as  in  Route  13. 


Route  15. ]        STEA3IB0AT   ROUTES    TO    BOSTON.  91 

15.  Steamboat  Routes  to  Boston. 

a.  Via  "  Fall  River  Line.'''' 
This  route  is  bv  steamer  to  Fall  River,  Mass.,  and  thence  by  the 
Old  Colony  R.  R.  (time  10  to  13|  hrs.).  The  steamers  Puritan,  Pil- 
grim, Plymouth,  and  Providence  of  the  Fall  River  Line,  are  among  the 
finest  in  American  waters,  and  there  are  few  trips  more  enjoyable 
than  that  part  of  the  present  journey  which  is  made  on  them.  Their 
route  in  leaving  K'ew  York  (from  Pier  28,  foot  of  Murray  St.,  at  4.30 
p.  M.  in» winter,  5  p.  m.  in  spring  and  fall,  and  6  P.  M.  in  summer,  annex 
boat  from  Brooklyn  half  an  hour  earlier)  aifords  an  excellent  view  of 
the  harbor  ■and  city,  of  Brooklyn  and  the  Long  Island  shore,  of  the 
islands  in  the  East  River  (see  p.  22),  of  the  famous  Hell-Gate,  and  of 
the  tranquil  waters  of  Long  Island  Sound.  The  greater  part  of  the 
voyage  is  on  the  Sound,  and  when  Point  Judith  is  passed  the  steam- 
er's destination  is  close  at  hand.  The  boats  then  proceed  to  Fall  River 
without  stopping,  where  passengers  take  the  express  train  to  Boston. 
A  daily  service  is  also  established  between  Newport  and  New  York  dur- 
ing the  summer  by  the  steamers  leaving  New  York  at  5  p.  m.  and  Ncav- 
port  at  9.15  p.  M.  ' 

Newport. 

From  New  York,  Newport  is  reaciied  tia  Route  12  from  Grand  Central 
Depot  to  WicJfford,  and  thence  by  Newport  &  Wickford  R.  R.  and  Steamboat 
Line,  fare,  $4.?j0  (a  through  drawing-room  car  express  train  runs  during  the 
summer  months  between  New  York  and  NewT^ort) ;  or  by  Fall  River  boat  every 
night  (fare,  %2).  From  Boston,  tia  Old  Colony  R.  R.  (distance,  68  miles  ;  fare, 
$1.70).    From  Providence,  by  steamer  twice  daily  in  summer,  once  in  winter. 

Hotels.— The  Ocean  House,  on  Bellevue  Ave.,  is  the  largest  and  most  fash- 
ionable, and  is  generally  open  from  June  15th  to  October  1st.  The  Aquidneck 
House,  at  the  cor.  of  Pelham  and  Corne  Sts.,  is  cozy  and  quiet.  The  Perry 
House,  opposite  Washington  Square,  at  the  head  of  the  Long  Wharf,  is  much 
patronized  by  business  men.  Bray  ton's  and  the  Clifton  House  are  good  sec- 
ond-class hotels,  open  all  the  year  round.  The  range  of  prices  at  these  hotels 
is  from  $2.50  upward  a  day.  The  private-cottage  system  largely  prevails  at 
Newport,  and  hotel-life  is  quite  subordinate  to  it.  Furnished  cottages  cost 
$500  to  $5,000  for  the  season.     Board  in  private  houses  is  $10  to  $20  a  week. 

Methods  of  Transportation,— Electric-cars  start  from  the  Post-Office 
every  twenty  minutes  to  One-Mile  Corner,  or  Middletown  ;  to  Morton  Park 
(three  quarters  of  a  mile),  every  twenty  minutes  ;  and  to  Gaston's  Beach  (1 
mUe),  every  twenty  minutes  in  summer,  and  every  half -hour  in  winter. 

Newport,  one  of  the  most  fashionable  and  frequented  of  all  the 
American  summer  resorts,  is  situated  on  the  W.  shore  of  Rhode  Island 
and  on  Narragansett  Bay,  5  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  is  a  port  of  entry, 
and  has  a  fine  harbor,  the  approach  to  which  from  the  sea  is  charming. 
During  the  season  it  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  New  York  Yacht  Club,  and 
frequent  races  take  place.  Newport  was  settled  in  1639,  incorporated 
in  lYOO,  and  as  late  as  1Y69  exceeded  New  York  in  the  extent  of  its 
commerce ;  but  it  suffered  greatly  during  the  Revolution,  and  never  re- 
"Covered  its  commercial  importance.  The  old  town  lies  near  the  water ; 
but  a  new  city  of  charming  villas  and  sumptuous  mansions  has  sprung 
up  along  the  terraces  which  overlook  the  sea. 

Of  the  places  of  interest  within  the  city  proper,  the  first  is  *  Touro 


92  steajviboat  eotjtes  to  boston.       [Boute  15. 

Park,  between  Pelham  and  Mill  Sts.  Here  is  the  -  Old  Stone  Mil/ 
(sometimes  called  the  "Round  Tower"),  whose  origin  was  once  the 
theme  of  discussion,  and  which  is  still  asserted  by  some  antiquaries 
to  have  been  built  by  the  Norsemen  500  years  before  the  arrival  of 
Columbus.  The  weight  of  evidence  appears  to  favor  the  theory  that  it 
w^as  erected  by  Governor  Benedict  Arnold,  w^ho  died  in  16 '7 8.  Near  the 
Old  Mill  is  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's  fine  bronze  statue  of  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry, 
who  Avas  a  native  of  Newport.  In  Equality  Park,  in  Broadway,  stands 
the  Soldiers''  and  Sailors''  Monument^  in  bronze,  by  W.  Clark  Noble. 
The  State=Hoiise  (for  Newport  is  one  of  the  capitals  of  Rhode  Isl- 
and) is  a  venerable  building  (dating  from  I'ZSO),  fronting  on  Washington 
Square  in  the  center  of  the  town.  In  its  Senate-chamber  is  one  of 
Stuart's  celebrated  portraits  of  Washington.  The  Perry  Mansion,  occu- 
pied by  Commodore  Perry  after  his  victory  on  Lake  Erie,  fronts  on  this 
square ;  and  before  it  stands  the  bronze  statue  of  Commodore  0.  H. 
Perry,  by  William  G.  Turner ;  also  the  City  Hall  and  the  Perry  House. 
Other  objects  of  historical  interest  are  the  Jewish  Cemetery,  in  Touro  St., 
and  the  Synagogue,  erected  in  1'762,  w^hen  there  were  many  wealthy 
Jews  in  Newport,  and  still  kept  in  order  h\  a  bequest  of  $15,000  left 
for  that  purpose  by  Abraham  Touro.  *  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal), 
in  Church  St.,  is  a  venerable  edifice,  built  in  1725,  possessing  a  special 
interest  from  the  fact  that  Bishop  (then  Dean)  Berkeley  often  preached 
in  it  (1729  to  1731).  The  First  BajAist  Chicrch,  in  Spring  St.,  dates 
from  1638,  and  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  church  in  Rhode  Island.  The 
Central  Baptist  Church,  built  in  1735  by  the  Second  Congregational 
Church,  and  purchased  by  the  Central  Baptist  Society  in  1847,  stands 
on  Clarke  St.,  and  adjoining  it  is  the  Armory  of  the  Newport  Artillery 
Company,  organized  in  1741.  In  Pelham  St.,  opposite  the  old  Stone 
Mill,  is  the  Channing  Memoricd  Church,  built  188()-'81,  which  contains 
some  fine  stained-glass  windows.  The  Vernon  House,  cor.  Clarke  and 
Mary  Sts.,  was  the  headquarters  of  Rochambeau  in  1780.  The  Hazard 
Memorial  School  is  a  large  building  under  the  charge  of  Sisters  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church,  and  is  a  conspicuous  edifice.  The  "^Red- 
wood Library  (Bellevue  Ave.)  is  a  substantial  building  in  the  Doric 
style ;  it  contains  37,000  volumes,  and  some  choice  paintings  and  statu- 
ary. The  Historical  Society,  in  the  Seventh-Day  Baptist  meeting-house, 
in  Touro  St.  just  above  the  Jewish  synagogue,  has  a  fine  collection  (ad- 
mission free).  Adjoining  this  in  the  rear  is  the  museum  and  lecture- 
room  of  the  Newport  Natural  History  Society.  The  People's  Library 
(free)  is  in  Thames  St.,  and  contains  30,000  volumes.  The  Opera-House, 
on  Washington  Square,  is  a  handsome  edifice.  On  Bellevue  Ave.,  near 
the  Ocean  House,  is  the  New  Casino,  a  commodious  and  picturesque 
building,  which  co:nprises  a  fashionable  lounge,  a  club-house,  a  theatre, 
restaurant,  and  a  tennis-ground.  Balls  and  musical  and  dramatic  enter- 
tainments are  frequent,  and  concerts  are  given  twice  daily  in  summer. 
The  concerts  and  theatrical  entertainments  are  usually  open  to  the* 
public  on  payment  of  a  small  admission  charge,  but  the  club  privileges 
of  the  house  can  only  be  obtained  by  introduction. 

The  surf -bathing  at  Newport  is  unsurpassed.     There  are  four  fine 


Route   15.']        STEAMBOAT    ROUTES    TO    BOSTON.  93 

beaches,  of  which  *  First  or  Gaston's  Beach  is  the  one  principally 
used.  It  is  -A-  mile  from  the  Ocean  House,  and  stages  and  electric-cars 
run  regularly  to  and  fro.  The  pavilion  is  a  handsome  and  commodious 
structure,  furnished  with  a  restaurant,  hot  and  cold  baths,  and  numer- 
ous bathing-houses.  Sachuest  Beach  (Second)  is  about  a  mile  E.  of 
the  First,  and  is  used  only  by  the  more  adventurous,  the  breakers  being 
very  heav}^  At  the  W.  end  of  this  beach  is  *  Purgatory,  a  dark 
chasm  160  ft.  long,  50  ft.  deep,  and  from  8  to  14  ft.  across.  Third 
Beach  is  a  long,  secluded  strip  of  sand,  and  beyond  it  are  the  picturesque 
*  Hanging  Rocks,  within  whose  shadow  Bishop  Berkeley  is  said  to 
have  written  his  "  Minute  Philosopher."  Bailey'^s  Beach^  at  the  foot  of 
Bellevue  Ave.,  is  also  used  in  calm  weather.  The  Forty  Steps,  leading 
from  the  bluff  to  the  rocks  beneath,  are  at  the  foot  of  Narragansett  Ave. 

The  famous  Cliffwalk  extends  along  the  Atlantic  Ocean  from 
Easton's  Beach  to  Bailey's  Beach,  a  distance  of  nearly  3  miles.  It 
passes  through  the  grounds  of  those  whose  estates  extend  to  the  water ; 
and  by  a  clause  in  the  old  deeds  in  which  fishermen's  rights  were 
granted,  a  highway  must  be  kept  open  forever.  The  Walk  is  in  full 
view  of  many  of  the  handsome  villas,  including  those  of  Mrs.  William 
Gammell,  Robert  Goelet,  Ogden  Goelet,  Louis  L.  Lorrillard  (formerly 
Miss  Catherine  Wolfe's),  Cornelius  Vanderbilt,  Fairman  Rogers,  William 
Astor,  William  K.  Vanderbilt,  W.  W.  Astor,  Ogden  Mills,  F.  W.  Van- 
derbilt, and  others.  Morton  Park,  a  pretty  tract  of  land  at  the  south- 
erly end  of  the  electric-car  route,  in  Coggeshall  Ave.,  Avas  presented  to 
Newport  by  Levi  P.  Morton,  formerly  Vice-President  of  the  United  States. 
The  Park  is  not  large,  but  the  city  is  constantly  making  expenditures  for 
its  improvement.  Adjoining  it  are  the  Polo  Grounds,  where  matches 
are  played  during  the  summer  months. 

The  grand  drive  of  Newport  is  *  Bellevue  Avenue,  2  miles 
long,  and,  during  the  fashionable  hours,  thronged  with  costly  equipages. 
Bellevue  Ave.  extends  from  the  Jewish  Cemetery  to  Bailey's  Beach,  and 
Ocean  Ave.  is  then  reached,  where  the  "  ten-mile  drive  "  continues  from 
Bailey's  Beach  along  the  south  shore,  by  Grave's  Point,  Bateman's,  Cas- 
tle Hill,  Fort  Adams,  Brenton's  Cove,  along  the  crest  of  Halidon  Hill 
with  its  superb  views  of  the  harbor,  the  islands,  and  the  bay.  Another 
drive  is  by  the  West  Road,  from  Broadway  to  Bristol  Ferry,  a  distance 
of  9  miles,  by  Lawton's  Valley,  the  coal-mines,  and  Portsmouth  Grove, 
with  full  view  of  the  bay.  The  East  Road  extends  from  Broadway  to 
Stone  Bridge,  a  distance  of  12  miles.  Another  drive  is  along  Paradise 
Road,  from  Second  Beach,  by  Hanging  Rocks  to  Indian  xlve.,  and  then 
along  Indian  Ave.,  continuing  N.  along  East  Shore.  The  *  Spouting 
Rock  (reached  by  Bellevue  Ave.)  is  a  popular  resort  of  excursion- 
parties.  It  is  a  deep  cavern,  running  back  from  the  sea  into  the 
rocky  cliff's,  and  is  quiet  enough  in  ordinary  weather ;  but  after  a  S.  E, 
storm  the  waves  rush  madly  in  and  dash  through  an  opening  in  the 
roof,  sometimes  to  the  height  of  50  ft.  The  view  from  the  cliffs  above 
is  considered  one  of  the  finest  that  Newport  affords.  Another  favorite 
excursion  is  to  the  Glen,  a  quiet  and  sequestered  retreat,  where  an 
old  mill  stands  near  a  pond.     It  is  7  miles  out,  on  the  Stone  Bridge 


94  STEAMBOAT   EOTJTES   TO   BOSTON.        [Route  15. 

road.  The  Pirate's  Cave,  4^  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  road  to  Bren- 
ton's  Point,  and  MioMtonomo  Hill,  1^  mile,  are  often  visited.  Lily 
Pond,  the  largest  sheet  of  spring- water  on  the  island,  is  easily  reached 
from  Spouting  Rock.  Fort  Adams,  near  Brenton's  Cove,  3-J  miles 
from  the  city,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  strongest  fortresses  in  the  United 
States,  mounting  460  guns.  Three  times  a  week  occur  what  are  called 
the  "  fort  days,"  when  the  band  discourses  its  best  music.  On  Coasters' 
Harbor  Island  is  the  building  formerly  used  as  the  county  poor-home, 
but  now  occupied  by  the  U.  S.  Government  as  a  training  station  for 
naval  apprentices.  The  Xaval  War  College,  built  during  1892,  is  on  the 
same  island.  Canonicut  Island,  opposite  Fort  Adams,  is  rapidly  becom- 
ing very  popular  as  a  summer  resort,  and  many  cottages  have  been  built 
there  within  recent  years.  It  is  connected  by  feny  with  Newport,  and 
at  Jamestown,  as  the  landing-place  is  called,  are  Bay  View  Hotel,  Bay 
Voyage  House,  Canonicid  Park  Hotel,  Gardner  House,  Prospect  Hoitse, 
and  The  Thorndyke.  Brenton's  Cove  is  approached  by  a  causeway  lead- 
ing to  Fort  Adams,  and  affords  a  charming  view  of  the  city.  Goat 
Island,  opposite  the  city  wharves,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  torpedo 
division  of  the  U.  S.  Naval  Service.  Lime  Rock,  famous  as  the  home 
of  Ida  Lewis,  lies  in  the  harbor  S.  of  Goat  Island.  A  popular  excursion 
is  by  Providence  steamer  to  Rocky  Point  (see  p.  88).  Daily  steamboat 
excursions  may  be  also  made  to  Block  Island  and  Narragansett  Pier. 

Beyond  Newport  the  steamer  from  New  York  plows  the  lovely  waters 
of  Narragansett  Bay,  and  soon  stops  at  Fall  River  [Mellen  House, 
Wilbur  House),  one  of  the  large  manufacturing  cities  of  Massachusetts, 
with  a  population  in  1890  of  '74,398.  Cotton-cloth  is  the  great  arti- 
cle of  manufacture,  and  more  spindles  are  said  to  be  in  operation 
than  in  any  other  Amei-ican  city.  Fall  River  is  well  built,  many  of  the 
edifices  being  of  granite,  and  the  vast  factories  are  worth  inspecting. 
North  and  South  Main  St.  is  the  principal  thoroughfare.  Here  passen- 
gers take  the  cars  of  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  and  are  conveyed  to  Boston 
(49  miles)  in  about  1^  hour.  The  route  is  through  a  well-cultivated 
and  populous  farming  country.  Many  towns  and  villages  cluster  along 
the  line,  of  which  the  principal  are  Taunton  {City  Hotel),  another 
prosperous  manufacturing  city,  with  25,448  inhabitants ;  and  thence  by 
way  of  Stoughton  and  Canton  to  Park  Square  Station.  There  is  anoth- 
er route  from  Fall  River  to  Boston  via  Bridgewater.  It  is  the  same 
as  the  one  here  described,  except  that  Taunton  is  not  passed. 

b.  Via  "  Stonington  Line.'''' 
Next  to  the  Fall  River  Line  this  is  the  most  popular  of  the  steam- 
boat routes  to  Boston  (time,  13  hours).  The  Maine  and  New  Hampshire 
leave  daily  (except  Sundays)  from  Pier  36,  North  River,  one  block  above 
Canal  St.,  at  5  p.  m.  The  route  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  the  Fall 
River  boats ;  but  the  distance  traveled  by  steamer  is  shorter,  and  the 
occasionally  stormy  ocean-passage  around  Point  Judith  is  avoided.  At 
Stonington  (see  p.  85)  passengers  are  transferred  to  the  cars  of  the 
Providence  Div.  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.,  and 
the  remainder  of  the  route  is  identical  with  Route  12. 


Route  16.]  BOSTON.  95 

c.    Via  '•'•  Noridch  lAner 

The  boats  of  this  line  nm  from  Pier  40,  North  River,  daily  (Sundays 
excepted)  at  5  p.  m.  (time,  13J  hours),  by  Long  Island  Sound  to  New 
London  and  Norwich,  Conn.,  which  is  reached  in  the  early  morning. 
New  London  has  already  been  described  on  p.  84.  Here  the  cars  of 
the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  are  taken,  and  in  13  miles  we  reach  Nor- 
\irich  {Wauregan  House)^  a  beautiful  city,  with  a  population  of  16,156, 
lying  between  the  Yantic  and  Shetucket  Rivers,  which  there  unite  and 
form  the  Thames.  The  city  is  laid  out  in  broad  avenues,  bordered  with 
fine  trees,  and  the  churches,  public  buildings,  and  private  houses  are 
very  attractive.  Washington  St.  and  Broadway  are  lined  with  handsome 
dwellings,  surrounded  by  shade-trees  and  ornamental  gardens.  The 
Court=House  is  in  Union  Square.  Main  St.  is  the  leading  business 
thoroughfare.  The  Free  Academy  is  an  imposing  building  near  the  Pa- 
rade, or  Williams  Park  (reached  by  Broadway).  Near  by  is  the  Park 
Congregational  Churchy  and  in  Washington  St.  is  the  ivy-clad  Christ 
Church  (Episcopal).  St.  Patrick''s  Cathedral.,  in  Broadway,  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  church-architecture.  The  Ycmtic  Cemetery  and  the  old 
burying-ground  contain  some  interesting  monuments ;  and  in  the  an- 
cient Indian  burpng-ground  in  Sachem  St.  a  granite  obelisk  marks  the 
grave  of  Uncas.  Near  Greenville  is  the  battle-field,  where  a  granite 
block  marks  the  site  of  Miantonomo's  capture  ;  and  a  drive  of  5  miles 
toward  New  London  leads  to  Mohegan.,  where  a  remnant  of  the  abo- 
rigines still  live.  The  once  famous  Fcdh  in  the  Yantic  have  been  sac- 
rificed to  the  need  of  water-power  for  factories.  The  capital  invested 
in  manufacturing  is  large,  and  the  principal  products  are  worsted, 
printing-presses,  cotton-goods,  fii'e-arms,  paper,  locks,  stoves,  and  vari- 
ous articles  of  iron  and  steel.  At  Norwich  the  line  of  the  New  York  & 
New  England  R.  R.  is  reached,  and  the  route  thence  is  identical  with 
Route  13. 

16.  Boston. 

Hotels. — The  B7nmswick  (cor.  Bojiston  and  Clarendon  Sts.),  the  Copley 
Sgimre  Hotel  (Huntington  Ave.),  the  Thorndike  (Boylston  and  Church  Sts.), 
and  the  Vendoine  (cor.  Commonwealth  Ave.  and  Dartmouth  St.),  are  among  the 
finest  in  the  country.  Other  houses  on  the  American  plan  are  the  Abbotsfw^d, 
186  Commonwealth  Ave.;  the  American  House,  in  Hanover  St.,  centrally  lo- 
cated ;  the  Lanqham,  1697  Washington  St.,  cor.  Worcester,  at  the  S.  End  ;  the 
Quincy  House,  Brattle  Square  ;  the  Revere,  on  Bowdoin  Square  ;  the  Tremonf, 
cor.  Tremont  and  Beacon  Sts.;  and  the  United  States,  in  Beach  St.  cor.  Lincoln. 
The  rates  charged  at  these  hotels  vary,  according  to  the  location  and  reputation 
of  the  house,  from  $3  to  %o  per  day.  Of  the  hotels  on  the  European  plan,  the 
Adams  House  (Washington  St.,  between  Boylston  and  West  Sts.),  the  Parker 
House  (School  St.,  opposite  the  City  Hall),  the  Victoria  (Dartmouth  and  New- 
bury Sts.,  in  the  Back  Bay  district),  and  Young's  Hotel  (Court  Ave.),  are  the 
best.  Rooms  at  these  houses  are  from  $1  to  $5  per  day.  Among  the  less  ex- 
pensive hotels  on  the  European  plan  are  the  Boston  Tavern,  Washington  St. 
near  Bromfield  ;  and  the  Cravjford  House,  cor.^Court  and  Brattle  Sts.  "Rooms 
at  these  hotels  are  from  %1  to  ^3  a  day  ;  meals  a  la  carte  in  restaurants  attached 
or  elsewhere. 

Restaurants. — The  restaurants  of  the  Adams  House,  Parker  House,  and 
Young's  Hotel,  are  famous.  Copeland's  (138  Tremont  St.)  and  Weber's  (in 
Temple  Place)  are  much  frequented  by  ladies.    At  Ober's  (4  Winter  Place)  wHl 


96  BOSTOis^.  [Route  16. 

be  found  the  French  cuisine,  and  in  Van  Eensselaer  Place,  off  Tremont  St.,  are 
two  French  restaurants,  where  a  table-cVhofe  is  served  for  60c.  Dooling's  (Tem- 
ple Place),  the  Le  Dejeuner  (132  Tremont  St.),  the  Monlton  (34  Summer  St.),  the 
Oak  Grove  Farm  (413  Washington  St.),  Parkas  (Boswoith  St.),  the  Quincy 
Cafe  (Brattle  St.),  the  St.  NicJiolas  (10  Province  St.),  the  TJiorndike,  and  Ver- 
ceUi's  (jZOO  Boylston  St.),  an  Italian  restaurant,  are  ah  good.  There  is  an  excel- 
lent cafe  in  the  Women  s  Educational  and  Industrial  Union,  264  Boj^lston  St. 
Good  restaurants  are  attached  to  all  the  railway-stations. 

Modes  of  Conveyance. — The  street-car  system  of  Boston  is  very  complete, 
all  the  long-distance  routes  running  electrical  cars.  Carriages  are'  in  waiting 
at  the  depots  and  at  stands  in  various  parts  of  the  city.  The  fares  are  regu- 
lated by  law,  and  are  as  follows  :  For  one  passenger  a  course  in  city  proper, 
50c.;  from  points  S.  of  Dover  St.,  or  W.  of  Berkeley  St.  to  points  N.  of  State, 
Court,  and  Cambridge  Sts.,  %1  ;  each  additional  passenger,  50c.  Complaints  of 
overcharges  should  be  made  to  the  Superintendent  of  Hacks,  City  Hall.  There 
are  2  ferries  to  East  Boston— North  Ferry,  from  Battery  St.  to  Border  St. ;  and 
South  Ferry,  from  Eastern  Ave.  to  Lewis  St.  (fare,  2c.).  The  Winnisimmet 
Ferry  connects  the  city  with  Chelsea  (fare,  5c.).  The  Herdics  and  the  cabs  of 
the  Boston  Cab  Co.  have  largely  taken  the  place  of  hacks  ;  fares,  25,  35,  and  50 
cts.  a  course,  or  $1  an  hour. 

Kailroad  Stations.— The  Boston  &  Maine  B.  R.  {Southern  Division)  Sta- 
tion, Causeway  St.  near  Lowell  St.,  is  of  briclc.  trimmed  with  Nova  Scotia  free- 
stone, 700  ft.  long  and  205  ft.  wide.  Just  beside  it_,  in  Causeway  St.,  stands  the 
station  of  the  Boston  cfi  Maine  E.  E.  {Eastern  Division) ;  and  a  few  paces  from 
the  latter  is  the  station  of  the  Fitchburg  E  E.  The  Boston  &  Albany  Station  is 
in  Kneeland  St.,  between  Lincoln  and  Utica  Sts.;  the  station  of  the  Boston  & 
Maine  ( Western  Division)  is  in  Haymarket  Sq.,  at  the  end  of  Washington  St.; 
that  of  the  Providence  Branch  of  the  Old  Colony  E.  E.  (Shore  Line  rente)  is  in 
Columbus  Ave.  near  the  Common,  known  as  the  Park  Square  Station  ;  that  of 
the  Old  Colony  E.  E.  is  at  the  cor.  of  Kneeland  and  South  Sts.;  that  of  the  Bos- 
ton, Eevere  Beach  &  Lynn  (narrow  gauge)  in  Atlantic  Ave. ;  and  that  of  the  New 
York  cfc  Neiv  England  E.  E.  in  Atlantic  Ave.,  at  the  foot  of  Summer  St. 

Theatres  and  Amusements. — The  Tremont  Theatre,  Tremont  St.  near 
Mason,  is  the  most  attractive  in  the  city  ;  the  Boston  Theatre,  in  Washington 
St.  near  West  St.,  is  the  largest  in  New  England.  The  Globe  Theatre,  in  Wash- 
ington St.  near  Esses,  is  devoted  to  star  performances,  and  the  Park  Theatre 
(opposite)  is  largely  devoted  to  farcical  comedy.  The  Columbia  Theatre,  in 
Washington  St.  near  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  B.  bridge,  is  a  beautiful  play- 
house (constructed  in  1891),  and  is  very  popular.  The  Bowdoin  Square  Theatre, 
in  Bowdoiii  Square,  furnishes  fixst-class  entertainments.  The  Palace  Theatre, 
in  Court  St.  near  Scollay  Square,  is  devoted  to  variety  performances  at  low 
prices.  The  Boston  Museum,  Tremont  St.  near  School  St.,  con  ains  the  oldest 
theatre  in  the  city.  In  the  Museum  are  pictures,  casts,  wax-figures,  and  curiosi- 
ties of  all  sorts  (admission,  35c.).  The  Howard  Athenceum,  Howard  St.  near 
Court  St.,  gives  variety-shows.  The  Bijou,  devoted  mainly  to  vaudeville  and 
comic  opera,  is  a  few  doors  from  the  Boston  Theatre.  The  Hollis  St.  Theatre 
stands  on  the  old  church  site,  betu'een  Washington  and  Tremont  Sts.,  and  is 
devoted  to  comedy  and  society  drama.  Music  Hall,  Hamilton  Place  and  Win- 
ter St.,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country,  and  here  the  Symphony  Concerts  are 
given  throughout  the  winter  season  ;  Bumstead  Hall,  in  the  same  buildmg,  en- 
trance on  Winter  St.,  is  dedicated  to  piano  and  minor  concerts.  Mechanics'' 
Hall,  in  Huntington  Ave.,  has  an  immense  stage  and  auditorium,  suitable  for 
great  gatherings  ;  opera,  grand  concert,  the  annual  Mechanics'  Fair,  horse,  dog, 
and  poultrj'  shows,  and  intercollegiate  athletic  sports  are  held  here.  Lectures 
and  concerts  are  given  at  Music  Hall ;  at  Tremont  Temple,  in  Tremont  St., 
opposite  the  Tremont  House  ;  at  Association  Hall,  cor.  Boylston  and  Berkeley 
Sts.  ;  at  Horticultural  Hall,  100  Tremont  St.  ;  at  Chickering  Hall,  in  Tremont 
St.  near  West ;  and  at  the  Hawthorne  Eooms,  in  Park  St.  At  Horticultural 
Hall  are  also  held  the  flower-shows  for  which  Boston  is  famous.  Horse-races 
occur  at  Beacon  Park  and  Mystic  Park,  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 

Keading-Eooms.— In  the  leading  hotels  aie  reading-rooms  (supplied  with 
newspapers)  for  the  use  of  guests.  The  Public  Library  building,  in  Copley 
Square,  is  the  finest  in  the  Uuited  States,  and  was  couslructed  at  a  cost  of  about 
$3,000,003,  and  was  opened  in  1893.    It  is  free  to  aU,  and  contains  a  larger  nimi- 


'J" 


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Copyight.  tSqi,  by  1 


Route  16.']  BOSTO]t^.  97 

ber  of  books  than  any  other  American  library,  except  the  Congressional  at 
Washington.  The  Athenceimi.,  in  Beacon  St.  near  Bowdoin,  has  excellent  read- 
ing-rooms, but  introduction  by  a  member  is  necessary,  i  ree  reading-rooms  may 
be  round  at  the  Young  Men'^s  Christian  Union,  48  Boylston  St.,  and  the  Yoking 
Men's  Christian  Association,  cor.  Boylston  and  Berkeley  Sts.  The  free  reading- 
rooms  of  the  Women's  Union  are  at  264  Boylston  St. 

Art  Collections. — The  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  St.  James  Ave.  and  Dart- 
mouth St.,  contains  an  extensive  collection  of  pictures,  statuary,  casts,  and  an- 
tiquities (admission,  25c.;  free  on  Saturday  and  Sunday  afternoons).  Exhibi- 
tions are  held  at  the  Boston  Art  Clvh  (opposite  Art  Museum),  the  8t.  Botolph 
Club  Art  GaVery,  Newbury  St.  (by  tickets  from  members  for  special  exhibi- 
tions). Good  pictures,  engravings,  etc.,  may  be  seen  (free)  at  the  sales  galleries 
of  Williams  &  Everett,  190  Boylston  St. ;  at  Boll  &  Richards,  2  Park  St. ;  and 
at ./.  Eastman  Chase's,  7  Hamilton  Place. 

Clubs — The  Temx>le  Club,  35  West  St.,  is  the  oldest  in  the  city.  The  Som- 
erset Club  has  a  fine  house  in  Beacon  St.  The  Suffolk,  Clvb  is  at  4i  Beacon  St. 
The  Union  Club  owns  a  house  in  Park  St.,  containing  a  valuable  library.  The 
Central  Club,  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  at  2  Newbury  St.,  and  the  Tavern  Club 
(artistic  and  literary),  4  Boylston  Place ;  and  the  Puritan  Club,  at  cor.  of  Mt. 
Vernon  and  Joy  Sts.  The  Neiv  England  Woman's  Club  has  quarters  in  Park 
St.  The  Algonquin  Club  is  in  Commonwealth  Ave.,  north  side,  between  Exeter 
and  Fairfield  Sts.,  and  the  Art  Club,  Dartmouth,  cor.  of  Newbury  St.  The 
Athletic  Clvb,  Exeter  St.  cor.  Blagden,  has  an  immense  and  admirably  fur- 
nished building,  with  a  fashionable  membership. 

Post-Office.— The  Post-Office  is  in  Devonshire  St.,  between  Milk  and 
Water  Sts.  It  is  open  for  the  delivery  of  letters  from  7.30  A.  m.  to  7.30  p.  m. 
The  Back  Bay  P.  O.,  Pierce  Building,  Huntington  Ave.,  is  most  convenient  for 
visitors  up-town,  and  Station  A,  Washington  St.  near  Brookline,  for  visitors  to 
the  South  End. 

Boston,  the  capital  of  Massachusetts,  and  chief  city  of  New  Eng- 
land, is  situated  at  the  W.  extremity  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  in  latitude 
42°  N.  and  longitude  '71°  W.  The  city  embraces  Boston  proper,  East 
Boston,  South  Boston,  Koxbury,  Dorchester,  Charlestown,  Brighton,  and 
West  Roxbury,  containing  in  all  about  22,000  acres.  Boston  proper-,  or 
old  Boston,  occupies  a  peninsula  of  some  '700  acres,  very  uneven  in  sur- 
face, and  originally  presenting  three  hills,  Beacon,  Copp's,  and  Fort,  the 
former  of  which  is  about  130  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  Indian  name  of 
this  peninsula  was  Shawmut,  meaning  "Sweet  Waters."  It  was  called 
by  the  earlier  settlers  Trimountain  or  Tremont.  East  Boston  occupies 
the  W.  portion  of  Noddle's  or  Maverick's  Island.  Here  is  the  deepest 
water  of  the  harbor,  and  here  the  ocean-steamers  chiefly  lie.  Soidh 
Boston  extends  about  2  m.  along  the  harbor,  an  arm  of  which  separates 
it  from  Boston  proper.  At  South  Boston  are  the  large  docks  and  ware- 
houses of  the  N.  Y.  &  N.  E.  R.  R.  Near  the  center  are  Dorchester 
Heights,  which  afford  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  bay,  and  surrounding 
country.  The  city  is  connected  with  Charlestown  by  the  Charles  River 
bridge,  1,503  ft.  long,  and  the  Warren  bridge,  1,300  ft.  long;  and  with 
Cambridge  by  the  West  Boston  bridge,  which  crosses  Charles  River 
from  Cambridge  St.,  Boston,  and  is  2,756  ft.  long,  Avith  a  causeway 
3,432  ft.  long.  Craigie's  bridge,  2,'796  ft.  long,  extends  from  Leverett 
St.  to  E.  Cambridge  ;  from  this  bridge  another,  1,820  ft.  long,  extends  to 
Prison  Point,  Charlestown.  Harvard  Bridge,  2,166  ft.  long,  extends 
from  West  Chester  Park  to  Old  Cambridge,  and  from  this  a  fine  view 
of  both  cities  may  be  obtained.  South  Boston  is  reached  by  the  Fed- 
eral St.  bridge,  about  500  ft.  long,  and  the  South  Boston  bridge,  1,550 

r 


98 


BOSTON. 


[Route  16. 


ft.  loug,  also  by  the  Broadway  bridge.  A  causeway,  built  across  Back 
Bay  on  a  substantial  dam  1^  m.  long,  extends  from  the  foot  of  Beacon 
St.  to  Sewall's  Point  in  Brookline.  The  harbor  is  a  spacious  indenta- 
tion of  Massachusetts  Bay,  embracing  about  '75  square  miles,  includ- 
ing several  arms.  There  are  more  than  50  islands  or  islets  in  the  har- 
bor, and  it  offers  many  picturesque  views. 


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In  the  older  portions  of  the  city  the  streets  are  irregular,  and 
generally  narrow,  though  somewhat  has  been  done  toward  widening 
and  straightening  them  since  the  fire.  Those  in  the  section  built 
on  the  made  land  of  Back  Bay  are  wide,  well  paved,  regularly  laid 
out,  and  present  a  handsome  appearance.  Washington^  Tremont,  and 
Winter  Sts.  are  the  pi'incipal  thoroughfares  for  general  retail  stores. 
Park  and  £o?/kton  Sis.  have  the  newest  shops  and  best  display.  State 
St.  is  the  financial  center,  and  contains  the  headquarters  of  the  leading 
bankers  and  brokers.  Hic/h  St.  and  adjacent  streets  are  the  largest  boot 
and  shoe  markets  in  the  world ;  and  in  Franklin,  Chauncey,  Summer,  and 
the  neighboring  streets  are  the  great  wholesale  dry-goods  establishments. 
Commonwealth  Ave.,  in  the  heart  of  the  Back  Bay  or  fashionable 


Route  16.]  BOSTON.  99 

quarter,  is  one  of  its  finest  streets.  It  is  240  ft.  wide,  and  through  the 
center  run. rows  of  trees  and  several  statues,  noticeable  among  which  are 
those  of  Leif  Eriksen  the  Norseman,  by  Anne  Whitney,  and  William 
Lloyd  Garrison,  the  former  of  which  looks  out  on  the  most  striking 
feature  of  the  great  chain  of  parks,  the  Back  Bay  Fens,  a  botanic  gar- 
den of  much  beauty.  Boulevard  driveways  lead  to  the  other  parks,  that 
about  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir,  that  about  Jamaica  Pond,  Bussev  Park, 
the  Arnold  Arboretum,  and  Franklin  Park.  Marine  Park,  at  City  Point, 
with  its  pleasure-pier  3,000  ft.  long,  and  the  Charles  River  Embank- 
ment, are  also  noticeable  features  of  the  park  system.  The  beauty  of 
its  surroundings  is  such  that  there  are  pleasant  drives  out  of  Boston  in 
almost  any  direction.  The  most  popular  drive  is  to  Brookline  or  around 
Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir  (5  miles),  while  that  through  Franklin  Park  and 
beyond,  in  Blue  Hill  Ave.,  shows  more  natural  beauty. 

The  first  white  inhabitant  of  Boston  was  the  Eev.  John  Blackstone,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  an  Episcopal  clergyman,  and  to  have  arrived  in  1623.  Here 
he  lived  alone  until  1630,  v/heu  John  Wiuthrop  (afterward  the  first  Governor  of 
Massachusetts)  came  across  the  river  from  Charlestown,  where  he  had  dwelt 
with  some  fellow-immigrants  for  a  short  time.  About  1635  Mr.  Blackstone 
sold  his  claim  to  the  now  populous  peninsula  for  £30,  and  removed  to  Rhode 
Island.  The  fii'st  church  was  built  in  1632  ;  the  first  wharf  in  1673.  Four  years 
later  a  postmaster  was  appointed,  and  iii  1704  (April  24th)  the  first  newspaper, 
called  the  "Boston  News  Letter,"  was  published.  The  "Boston  Massacre" 
occurred  March  5,  1770,  when  3  persons  were  killed  and  8  wounded  by  the  fire 
of  the  soldiery.  On  Dec.  16,  1773,  the  tea  was  destroyed  in  the  harbor,  and 
Boston  bore  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  opening  scenes  of  the  Re^'o]ution.  The 
city  was  incorporated  in  1822,  with  a  population  of  45,000,  which  had  in- 
creased to  136,881  in  1850,  to  177,840  in  1860.  and  250,526  in  1870.  By  the  annex- 
ation of  the  suburbs  of  Brighton,  Charlestown,  and  W.  Roxburv,  the  popula- 
tion had  increased  in  1S80  to  362,839,  and  in  1890  was  448,477.  On  the  9th  of 
November,  1872,  one  of  the  most  terrible  conflagrations  ever  known  in  the 
United  States  swept  away  the  principal  business  portion  of  Boston.  The  dis- 
trict burned  over  extended  from  Sumner  and  Bedford  Sts\  on  the  S.  to  near 
State  St.  on  the  N.,  and  from  Washington  Si.  E.  nearly  to  the  harbor.  About  775 
of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  city  were  destroyed,  causing  a  loss  of  $70,000,000. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  and  attractive  spot  in  Boston  is  the 
*Coininoii,  a  park  of  48  acres  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  surrounded 
by  an  iron  fence,  laid  out  in  sloping  la\\Tis  and  winding  walks,  and 
shaded  by  magnificent  trees.  The  Common  is  considered  to  date  from 
1634,  and  by  the  city  charter  it  is  made  public  property  forever.  A 
pond  and  fountain,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  and  historic  Frog  Pond^ 
occupy  a  central  point  in  the  grounds.  On  Flagstaff  Hill,  overlooking 
the  Pond,  is  the  *  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  ^lomirnent,  90  ft.  high,  with  4 
statues  of  heroic  size  at  the  base,  surmounted  by  a  colossal  figure  of 
America  standing  on  a  hemisphere,  and  guarded  by  4  eagles  with  out- 
spread wings.  Near  the  monument  stood  the  famous  Old  Elm^  which 
antedated  the  birth  of  the  city,  and  was  finally  blown  down  in  the  gale 
of  Feb.  15,  1876.  Facing  Tremont  St.,  on  the  Mall,  is  the  monument 
to  Crispus  Attucks  and  others  killed  in  the  Boston  massacre.  Xear 
Park  St.  is  the  beautiful  "^Brewer  Fountain^  of  bronze,  cast  in  Paris, 
and  the  Cogswell  Fountain  is  opposite  West  St. — The  ^  Public  Gar- 
den, separated  from  the  Common  by  Charles  St.,  was  dedicated  to 
the  public  in  1859,  but  the  chief  improvements  have  been  made  in  the 


100  BOSTON.  [noute  16. 

last  twelve  years.  It  comprises  22  acres,  beautifully  laid  out,  and  con- 
tains Thomas  Ball's  noble  equestrian  statue  of  Washington,  W.  W. 
Story's  bronze  statue  of  Edward  Everett,  a  statue  of  Charles  Sumner, 
by  Thomas  Ball,  one  representing  "  Venus  rising  from  the  Sea,"  and 
the  beautiful  monument  in  honor  of  the  discovery  of  ether  as  an  anfcs- 
thetic.  There  is  also  a  monument  to  Colonel  Cass,  one  of  the  heroes 
of  the  late  war.  In  the  center  is  a  serpentine  pond  covering  4  acres 
and  crossed  by  a  handsome  bridge. 

N*.  of  the  Common  is  Beacon  Hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  stands 
the  *State=^ House,  an  imposing  edifice  lYS  ft.  long  and  61  ft.  deep, 
with  a  stately  colonnade  in  front,  and  surmounted  by  a  gilded  dome.  On 
the  terrace  in  front  are  statues  of  Daniel  Webster  and  Horace  Mann. 
On  the  entrance  floor  (Doric  Hall)  are  Ball's  statue  of  Governor  An- 
drew, busts  of  Samuel  Adams,  Lincoln,  and  Sumnei^,  and  a  collection 
of  battle-flags.  In  the  Rotunda-,  opening  off  Doric  Hall,  are  Chan- 
trey's  statue  of  Washington,  copies  of  the  tombstones  of  the  Washing- 
ton family  in  Brington  church-yard,  England,  and  many  historical  relics. 
The  *  view  from  the  dome  (open  when  the  General  Court  is  not  in  ses- 
sion) is  very  fine,  including  the  city,  the  harbor  and  ocean  beyond,  and 
a  vast  extent  of  country.  The  new  part  now  building  in  the  rear  will 
be  even  more  striking  than  the  other.  In  Beacon  St.,  near  the  State- 
House,  is  the  *  Boston  Athenaeum,  an  imposing  freestone  edifice  in 
the  Palladian  style,  containing  a  library  of  more  than  150,000  volumes, 
a  reading-room,  and  some  choice  pieces  of  sculpture.  The  Athenaeum 
was  incorporated  in  1807,  and  is  richly  endowed.  The  Americcm  Acad- 
emy of  Arts  and  Sciences  has  its  rooms  and  library  (15,000  volumes)  in 
the  Athenaeum  building.  Near  the  Atheuajum  is  Pemherton  Square^  the 
site  of  an  old  Indian  burying-ground,  between  which  and  Somerset  St. 
is  the  new  County  Court-House  ;  and  on  the  farther  slope  of  Beacon 
Hill  is  Louishurg  Sq.^  containing  statues  of  Columbus  and  Aristides. 
In  the  Park  Square  is  the  bronze  group  "  Emancipation,"  presented  by 
Moses  Kimball.  In  Somerset  St.,  near  Beacon  St.,  are  the  offices  of  the 
Boston  University,  founded  in  1869  by  Isaac  Rich,  who  becjueathed  it 
$2,000,000.  The  Historic  and  Genealogical  Society\s  building  (Somerset 
St.)  contains  18,000  volumes,  and  a  collection  of  antiquities. 

Opposite  the  Common,  at  the  cor.  of  Tremont  and  Boylston  Sts., 
is  the  imposing  Masonic  Temple.  Opposite  the  Temple  is  the 
Gothic  building  of  the  Yoting  Men''s  Christian  Union.  From  this 
point  Boylston  St.  leads  W.  past  the  Public  Garden  to  the  aristo- 
cratic Back  Bay.  Beyond  the  Garden,  in  Berkeley  St.,  between  Boyl- 
ston and  Newbury  Sts.,  is  the  fine  building  of  the  *  Society  of 
Natural  History,  with  a  library  of  20,000  volumes,  and  valuable 
cabinets  (open  to  the  public  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  ;  free  on  Wednesdays 
and  Saturdays;  on  other  days,  25c.  admission).  Near  by  is  the  Institute 
of  Technology,  and  at  the  cor.  of  Clarendon  St.  is  the  ^  Hotel  Bruns- 
wick. The  fine  new  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Associa- 
tion is  at  the  cor.  of  Boylston  and  Berkeley  Sts.  Close  by  is  the  Sec- 
ond Church  (Unitarian),  Avith  a  rich  interior ;  nearly  opposite  which  (cor. 
Clarendon  St.  and  Huntington  Ave.)  is  *  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal), 


liiiiiiiii^ 


Eoute  16.]  BOSTON.  101 

with  chapel,  one  of  the  largest,  finest,  and  most  splendidly  decorated 
churches  in  America,  finished  in  ISVr  at  a  cost  of  $'750,000.  One  block 
beyond  (cor.  Boylston  and  Dartmouth  Sts.)  is  the  new  *01d  South 
Church — church,  chapel,  and  parsonage.  The  interior  is  extremely 
ornate,  and  the  tower  is  248  ft.  high.  A  block  S.,  in  Copley  Square  (cor. 
Dartmouth  St.  and  Huntington  Ave.),  is  the  *  Museum  of  Fine  Arts, 
a  substantial  red-brick  building,  elaborately  adorned  with  terra-cotta 
bas-i-eliefs,  copings,  and  moldings.  In  the  lower  halls  are  statuary, 
casts,  and  Egyptian  antiquities ;  and  in  the  upper  galleries  a  library  and 
one  of  the  richest  collections  of  paintings  and  engravings  in  the  counti-y. 
(Admission  free  on  Saturdays  and  Sundays  after  12  noon;  other 
days,  25c. ;  closed  till  noon  on  Mondays.)  The  building  of  the  Boston 
Art  Club  stands  near  the  Old  South  Church,  while  the  building  of 
the  new  Public  Library,  on  the  square,  was  completed  and  occu- 
pied in  1893.  It  is  open  to  the  public  every  day  in  the  week,  and, 
next  to  the  Library  of  Congress,  the  largest  in  America.  It  contains 
500,000  volumes,  2*75,000  pamphlets,  and  the  valuable  Tosti  collection 
of  engravings.  In  Newbury  St.,  cor.  of  Exeter,  is  the  Normal  Art 
School.  In  Huntington  Ave.  near  Dartmouth  St.  is  the  Massachusetts 
Charitable  Mechanics'  Association.  The  *  First  Baptist  Church,  cor. 
Clarendon  St.  and  Commonwealth  Ave.,  is  a  massive  stone  edifice  in  the 
form  of  a  Grreek  cross,  with  a  campanile  1*76  ft.  high,  surrounded  near 
the  top  with  a  frieze  containing  colossal  statues  in  high  relief,  after 
designs  by  Bartholdi.  The  First  Church  (Unitarian),  cor.  Berkeley  and 
Marlborough  Sts.,  has  a  richly  decorated  interior.  Close  by,  at  the  cor. 
of  Berkeley  and  Newbury  Sts.,  is  the  elegant  little  Centred  Congrega- 
tional Churchy  cruciform  in  shape,  with  a  stone  spire  240  feet  high; 
near  which,  in  Newbury  St.,  is  the  ornate  Emmanuel  Church  (Episco- 
pal). The  Arlington  St.  Church  (Unitarian),  fronting  the  Public  Gar- 
den, with  a  fine  chime  of  bells;  the  Church  of  the  Advent^  at  the  cor. 
of  Mt.  Vernon  and  Brimmer  Sts. ;  and  the  Hollis  St.  Church,  Newbury 
St.,  cor.  Exeter,  are  noteworthy  buildings.  The  depot  of  the  Provi- 
dence Division,  Old  Colony  R.  R.,  in  Columbus  Ave.  near  the  Common, 
is  worthy  of  attention.  The  English  High  and  Boston  Latin  Schools 
face  on  Montgomery  St.,  and  the  Girls^  High  and  LcUin  School  is  on 
West  Newton  St. 

In  Dock  Square,  in  the  heart  of  the  business  quarter,  stands 
*Faneuil  Hall,  the  most  interesting  building  in  the  United  States 
next  to  Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia.  This  famous  edifice,  the 
"cradle  of  liberty,"  w^as  erected  in  1742  and  presented  to  the  town 
by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  Huguenot  merchant.  Destroyed  by  fire  in  1*761, 
it  was  rebuilt  in  1768,  and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimensions  in  1805. 
The  basement  is  a  market  with  shops.  The  public  hall  is  on  the  sec- 
ond floor,  and  adorned  with  a  full-length  portrait  of  the  founder,  and 
with  portraits  of  Washington,  Samuel  Adams,  J.  Q.  Adams,  Webster, 
Everett,  Lincoln,  John  A.  Andrew,  Henry  Wilson,  and  Charles  Sumner, 
It  is  now  used  for  great  political  gatherings  and  public  demonstrations. 
Just  E.  of  Faneuil  Hall  is  Quiiicy  Market,  a  vast  granite  building, 
530  by  50  ft.,  and  2  stories  high  ;  and  near  by  (in  State  St.)  is  the  mass- 


102  BOSTON.  [Houte  16. 

ive  and  stately  *TJ.  S.  Custom-House,  of  granite,  in  the  form  of 
a  Greek  cross,  with  handsome  porticoes  on  either  front,  erected  from 
ISaY  to  1849  at  a  cost  of  $1,076,000.  The  MerchanW  Exchange^  in 
which  is  the  Stock  Exchange^  is  on  the  site  of  the  old  Merchants'  Ex- 
change^ 55  State  St.  It  is  a  structure  of  large  size  and  massive  archi- 
tecture. Close  by,  in  India  St.,  is  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  build- 
ing. At  the  head  of  State  St.,  in  Washington  St.,  is  the  Old  State- 
House^  built  in  1748,  and  often  mentioned  in  Kevolutionary  annals,  but 
now  remodeled  inside  and  outside.  The  lower  floors  are  given  over  to 
business  uses,  but  the  upper  floors  are  devoted  to  an  historical  museum  ; 
open  daily,  admission  free.  Just  above,  in  Court  Square,  is  the  old  County 
Court-House^  a  line  building  of  Quincy  granite.  In  rear  of  the  Court- 
House,  fronting  on  School  St.,  is  the  *City  Hall,  one  of  the  most 
imposing  edifices  in  the  city.  It  is  of  white  Concord  granite,  in  the 
Italian  Renaissance  style,  and  surmounted  by  a  Louvre  dome  109  ft. 
high.  The  interior  is  striking,  and  on  the  lawn  in  front  are  Greenough's 
bronze  statue  of  Franklin,  and  Ball's  bronze  statue  of  Quincy. 

Opposite  the  City  Hall  is  the  Parker  House^  and  just  above  (at  the 
cor,  of  School  and  Tremont  Sts.)  is  the  venerable  King^  Chapel^  built 
in  1754  by  the  Episcopalians  on  the  site  of  the  first  church  of  that  sect 
in  Boston.  Adjoining  it  is  the  first  burying-ground  established  in 
Boston,  containing  the  graves  of  Isaac  Johnson,  "  the  father  of  Bos- 
ton," Governor  VVinthrop,  John  Cotton,  and  other  distinguished  men. 
On  Tremont  St.  to  the  riglat  of  School  St.  is  a  granite  building  in  which 
are  the  rooms  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  with  a  library  of 
28,000  volumes,  and  many  valuable  MSS.,  coins,  maps,  charts,  por- 
traits, and  historical  relics.  Close  by  is  the  Boston  Museum  (admis- 
sion 35c.),  containing  pictures,  casts,  wax-figures,  and  curiosities  from 
all  parts  of  the  Avorld.  Turning  down  Tremont  St.  to  the  left  from 
School  St.,  we  pass  Tremont  Temple  (used  for  lectures,  readings,  etc.), 
and  soon  reach  *  Horticultural  Hall,  an  ornate  white  granite 
structure,  in  which  frequent  floral  shows  are  held ;  also  fairs,  concerts, 
and  lectures.  Just  beyond  is  Music  Hall,  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
countr}^,  and  seating  nearly  3,000  persons  (entrances  on  Hamilton  Place 
and  Winter  St.).  Opposite  is  the  famous  Park  Street  Church  (Con- 
gregational), founded  in  1809;  adjoining  which  is  the  Old  Granary 
Burying -Ground,  in  which  are  buried  Peter  Faneuil,  Samuel  Adams, 
John  Hancock,  and  other  distinguished  men.  Near  Temple  Place  is 
the  church  of  St.  PauVs  (Episcopal),  of  gray  granite  in  the  Ionic 
style,  with  a  classic  portico  of  6  columns.  Still  beyond  is  the  Ma- 
sonic Temple,  already  described  (see  page  100);  and  farther  still  (cor. 
Berkeley  St.)  is  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  a  white  granite  building  of 
chaste  and  pleasing  design.  At  the  corner  of  Concord  St.  is  the 
Methodist  Church,  a  quaint  structure,  with  2  spires.  In  Harrison  Ave. 
near  Concord  St.  is  the  City  Hospital,  a  spacious  granite  edifice 
standing  in  7  acres  of  grounds;  and  near  it  is  the  Roman  Catholic 
Home  for  Orphans,  the  Church  of  the  Immaculate  Concepjtion  (famed 
for  its  music  and  its  fine  interior),  and  Boston  College,  a  Jesuit  institu- 
tion with  many  pupils.     Fronting  on  Franklin  Square,  in  this  vicinity, 


Route  16.}  BOSTON.  103 

is  the  New  England  Conservatory  of  Music,  with  rooms  for  more  than 
500  women  students.  Also  in  Harrison  Ave.  is  the  Church  of  St.  James 
(Roman  Catholic),  in  the  purest  form  of  the  classical  basilica,  Avith  richly 
adorned  interior.  At  the  corner  of  Washington  and  Maiden  Sts.  is  the 
*  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross  (Roman  CathoHc),  the  largest  and 
finest  church  edifice  in  New  England.  It  is  in  the  mediaeval  Gothic 
style,  364  ft.  long  and  170  ft.  broad,  with  stained-glass  memorial  win- 
dows of  artistic  beauty,  and  a  magnificent  high  altar  of  marble  and 
onyx. 

Returning  to  the  business  quarter,  we  find  at  the  cor.  of  Washington 
and  Milk  Sts.  the  *  Old  South  Churchy  an  historic  rehc  of  much  in- 
terest. It  was  built  in  1129,  and  was  used  as  a  place  of  meeting  by  the 
heroes  of  "76,  and  subsequently  by  the  British  as  a  place  for  cavalry- 
drill.  It  barely  escaped  the  flames  in  the  great  fire  of  1872,  and  im- 
mediately afterward  was  leased  to  the  Government  for  a  post-office.  It 
is  used  for  lectures,  and  contains  an  historical  collection,  open  daily,  ad- 
mission 25c.  In  the  square  bounded  by  Milk,  Water,  and  Devonshire  Sts. 
and  Post-Office  Square,  is  the  *Post=Office  and  Sub-Treasury,  of 
granite,  highly  ornate  in  style,  and  is  said  to  be  the  finest  building  in 
New  England.  The  upper  stories  are  used  by  the  U.  S.  Snh- Treasury  ; 
the  Cash-room  is  very  richly  adorned. 

The  new  buildings  and  "  blocks  "  erected  in  the  burned  district  since 
1872  comprise  some  of  the  finest  commercial  structures  in  America. 
Among  them  are  the  Brewer  Building^  on  Devonshire,  Franklin,  and 
Federal  Sts. ;  the  Franklin  Building.,  cor.  Franklin  and  Federal  Sts. ; 
the  Rialto  Building^  cor.  Devonshire  and  Milk  Sts.;  the  Simmons  Build- 
ing^ cor.  Congress  and  Water  Sts.  ;  the  Cathedral  Building.,  in  Win- 
throp  Square ;  and  especially  those  of  the  JSf.  Y.  MiU'/al  Life  Ins.  Co. 
(cor.  Milk  and  Pearl  Sts.),  the  Equitable  Life  Assurance  Co.  (cor.  Milk 
and  Federal  Sts.,  opposite  the  Post-Office),  the  Nero  Lngland  Mutual 
lAfe  Ins.  Co.  (cor.  Milk  and  Congress  Sts.),  the  Fi^ke  Building.,  State 
St.,  the  Ames  Building  (cor.  Yv^ashington  and  Court  Sts.),  and  the  Sears 
Building  (cor.  Washington  and  Court  Sts.). 

On  Copp's  Hill,  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  city,  is  the  old  North 
Burying- Ground^  the  second  established  in  Boston,  and  still  sacredly 
preserved.  Here  lie  three  fathers  of  the  Puritan  Church,  Drs.  Increase, 
Cotton,  and  Samuel  Mather.  Christ  Church.,  in  Salem  St.  near  Copp's 
Hill,  is  the  oldest  in  the  city,  having  been  erected  in  1722.  In  the  tow- 
er is  a  fine  chime  of  bells,  and  here  was  the  signal-light  for  Paul  Revere, 

Of  the  charitable  institutions  of  Boston,  the  Perkins  Institution  for 
the  Blind  is  famous.  It  was  founded  in  1831  by  Dr.  Samuel  G.  Howe, 
and  occupies  spacious  buildings  on  Mt.  Washington,  in  S.  Boston.  Near 
by  on  the  hill  is  Carney  Hospital.,  managed  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 
The  Massachusetts  Genercd.  Hospital  is  a  vast  granite  structure  on  Charles 
River,  between  Allen  and  Bridge  Sts.  The  City  Hosp)ital  has  been  de- 
scribed previously.  The  Marine  Hospital  (for  invalid  seamen)  occupies 
a  commanding  site  in  Chelsea,  and  is  a  spacious  and  stately  building. 
The  Soldiers''  Home  is  located  on  the  top  of  Powder-Horn  Hill,  Chelsea. 
The  U.  S,  Naval  Hospitcd  is  near  by.     The  House  of  Industry  and  the 


104  BOSTON.  [Route  16. 

Almshouse  are  on  Deer  Island,  in  the  harbor  ;  and  the  House  of  Cor- 
rection and  Lunatic  Asylum  in  S.  Boston. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions  has  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the 
visitor  can  readily  spend  more  time,  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  attention. 

1.  Visit  the  State-House  dome,  where  an  excellent  view  of  the  city 
may  be  obtained ;  Doric  Hall  (State-House) ;  the  Common ;  Public 
Garden ;  a  short  walk  westward  on  Bovlston  St.  brings  one  to  Trinity 
Church,  the  new  Old  South  Church,  and  the  Public  Library ;  then  take 
electric-car^  at  Copley  Square  and  ride  to  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir, 
passing  Commonwealth  Ave.,  and  along  Beacon  St.,  past  the  finest  resi- 
dences ;  stroll  around  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir,  and  return  by  electric- 
car,  stopping  at  the  corner  of  West  Chester  Park  and  Beacon  Sts.  to 
obtain  the  splendid  view  of  the  Charles  River  from  the  Harvard  bridge, 
and  to  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  in  Copley  Square  (open  daily  from 
12  M.  to  5  p.  M. ;  admission  25c. ;  free  on  Saturdays  and  Sundays). 

2.  Visit  the  Old  South  Church,  cor.  Milk  and  Washington  Sts. ;  the 
Old  State-House,  cor.  State  and  Washington  Sts. ;  and  Faneuil  Hall — in 
all  of  which  are  many  interesting  pictures  and  relics ;  the  Merchants' 
Exchange,  in  State  St.,  where  the  Stock  Exchange  is  located ;  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  Building,  in  India  St. ;  then  take  East  Boston  car,  on 
Devonshire  St.  (which  crosses  State  St.),  and  connect  with  ferry  for  East 
Boston,  thus  passing  across  the  upper  harbor,  and,  returning  by  the 
same  route,  stop  at  Copp's  Hill,  the  liome  and  burial-place  of  many 
Revolutionary  heroes,  and  visit  Christ  Church,  from  the  tower  of  which 
Paul  Revere  was  signaled  to  warn  the  people  of  the  march  of  the  British 
to  Concord  and  LexingtoTi,  April  18,  lYYS. 

8.  Take  Bunker  Hill  cars  on  Washington  or  Tremont  Sts.,  and  ride 
to  Bunker  Hill  Monument ;  visit  the  Monument ;  a  short  walk  down  the 
hill  brings  one  to  the  Navy- Yard,  which  is  filled  with  interesting  and 
instructive  objects,  especially  the  Museum  ;  return  to  the  city  proper 
by  cars  which  pass  the  Navy- Yard,  and  visit  the  Boston  Museum  and 
King's  Chapel,  both  on  Tremont  St.,  and  the  new  Court-House,  in  Pem- 
berton  Sq.,  close  at  hand. 

4.  Take  steamer  at  Rowe's  Wharf,  Atlantic  Ave.,  reached  by  cars 
from  Washington  St.,  and  go  to  Pemberton  Landing,  Hull,  thence  by 
train  along  Nantasket  Beach,  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  to  Nantasket, 
the  popular  seaside  resort  of  Boston ;  take  barge  to  Cohasset,  passing 
along  the  famous  Jerusalem  road,  lined  with  the  villas  of  wealthy  Bos- 
ton merchants,  and  in  sight  of  the  celebrated  Minot's  Ledge  Light- 
house ;  return  to  Boston  by  the  same  route.  Boats  leave,  during  the 
summer  season,  almost  hourly,  and  trains  and  barges  connect  with 
every  boat.     The  fare  by  boat  and  train  from  Boston  to  Nantasket  is 

^  Visitors  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  electric-cars  stop  only  at  points 
designated  by  a  white  band  on  the  electric  poles. 


Route  16.']  BOSTON-.  105 

25  cents.     Charts  of  the  harbor  are  usually  distributed,  free,  on  the 
boats. 

5.  Take  cars  on  Washington  St,  to  Franklin  Park,  the  largest  tract 
in  the  Boston  park  system  ;  park  wagons  may  be  chartered  for  drives 
all  over  the  park  for  25  cents  a  passenger ;  carriages  may  then  be  hired 
at  moderate  rates  for  a  drive  to  Forest  Hills  Cemetery,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  burial-places  in  the  country;  thence  to  the  Arnold 
Arboretum,  in  West  Roxbury,  another  tract  in  the  chain  of  parks ; 
thence  to  and  around  Jamaica  Pond,  and  through  Brookline,  a  town 
adjoining  Boston,  which  is  filled  with  the  costliest  residences  and 
most  beautiful  drives;  thence  through  Massachusetts  Ave.,  and  the 
Back  Bay  Park,  along  the  Charles  River  embankment  and  Common- 
wealth Ave. 

6.  Take  street-cars  running  from  Park  Square  or  Bowdoin  Square  to 
Harvard  Square,  Cambridge ;  visit  the  homes  of  Longfellow  and  Low- 
ell (the  former  being  on  Brattle  St.,  which  leads  from  Harvard  Square, 
and  the  latter  a  few  minutes'  walk  beyond,  on  Elrawood  Ave.,  off  Brat- 
tle St.),  the  many  beautiful  buildings  of  Harvard  University,  including 
Memorial  Hall,  the  Museum,  Austin  Law  School,  and  Hemenway  Gym- 
nasium ;  then  take  street-cars  to  Boston. 

Y.  Take  train  on  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.,  Eastern  Division  (Causeway 
St.),  and  ride  to  Marblehead ;  thence  by  carriage  along  the  beautiful 
north  shore,  through  the  towns  of  Beverly  and  Manc'jester-by-the-Sea, 
where  are  many  elegant  summer  residences ;  returning  to  Marblehead, 
take  a  stroll  about  the  quaint  old  town,  and  go  by  ferry  to  the  Neck 
— a  famous  summer  resort ;  return  bv  Boston  k  Maine  R.  R.  to  Boston. 


The  environs  of  Boston  are  remarkably  attractive.  On  almost  all 
sides  lie  picturesque  and  venerable  towns,  and  the  country  between, 
even  when  not  strictly  beautiful,  is  never  flat  and  tame.  Charlestown, 
Brighton,  Jamaica  Plain,  and  W.  Roxbury  were  annexed  in  1875,  and 
now  form  part  of  the  city.  Roxbury  and  Dorchester  had  been  pre- 
viously annexed.  In  all  of  them  are  the  fine  villa  residences  of  Boston 
merchants,  and  other  features  of  interest  which  make  them  worth  a 
visit.  At  Charlestown^  on  the  N.  (reached  by  street-cars  from  Scollay 
Square),  is  the  famous  *  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  occupying  the 
site  of  the  old  redoubt  at  Breed's  Hill,  and  commemorative  of  the  event- 
ful battle  fought  on  the  spot,  June  17,  1775.  It  is  a  plain  but  massive 
obelisk  of  Quincy  granite,  30  ft.  square  at  the  base,  and  221  ft.  high. 
From  the  observatory  at  the  top,  reached  by  a  spiral  flight  of  295  steps, 
is  obtained  a  magnificent  view,  including  the  entire  vicinity  of  Boston. 
The  monument  was  dedicated  June  17,  1843,  in  the  presence  of  Presi- 
dent Tyler  and  his  Cabinet,  on  which  occasion  Daniel  Webster  delivered 
an  oration  which  is  considered  his  finest  oratorical  effort.  In  the  house 
near  the  monument  is  a  fine  statue  of  General  Warren,  who  was  killed 
on  the  Hill;  and  a  stone  marks  the  spot  where  he  fell.  The  U.  S. 
Navy-Yard  is  also  located  in  Charlestown.  It  comprises  about  100 
acres,  and  contains,  among  other  objects,  the  longest  rope-walk  in  the 


106  BOSTON.  [Route  16. 

country,  and  an  immense  dry-dock.  In  Chelsea  (connected  with  Boston 
by  ferry,  and  with  Charlestown  by  a  bridge  over  the  Mystic  Riyer)  are 
Woodlawn  Cemetery,  Marine  Hospital,  Soldiers'  Home,  and  Naval  Hos- 
pital, which  have  already  been  described ;  also  the  prominent  manu- 
facturing plants  of  the  Low  Art-Tile  Co.,  the  Forbes  Lithograph  Manu- 
facturing Co.,  and  the  pottery  where  the  famous  Chelsea  faience  was 
made.  Nantasket  Beacli^  an  hour's  sail  by  steamers  from  Rowe's  Wharf, 
340  Atlantic  Ave.,  is  a  justly  celebrated  summer  resort.  Brighton^  a 
station  on  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R.,  5  miles  W.  of  the  city  proper,  is 
famous  for  its  cattle-market.  Point  Shirley^  5  miles  from  Boston, 
affords  a  pleasant  drive.  The  most  direct  route  is  by  way  of  the  E. 
Boston  ferry. 

*Brookline  is  a  beautiful  town  on  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R. 
(reached  also  by  the  Mill-Dara  from  Boston).  In  it  is  the  Brookline 
Reservoir,  with  a  capacity  of  120,000,000  gallons.  About  1  m.  distant, 
on  the  boundaries  of  Brookline,  Brighton,  and  Newton,  is  the  great 
Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir,  with  a  capacity  of  800,000,000  gallons.  From 
Boston  to  and  around  this  point  is  a  favorite  drive.  Lexington  and 
Concord  axe  reached  by  the  Arlington  branch  of  the  Boston  &  Maine 
R.  R.  from  the  Lowell  depot.  Concord  may  also  be  reached  by  the 
Fitchburg  R.  R. 

*  Cambridge,  one  of  the  most  renowned  of  the  American  academic 
cities,  lies  about  3  miles  W.  of  Boston  (street-cars  from  Bowdoin  Square 
and  Park  Square),  and  has  a  population  of  70,028.  It  covers  an  extensive 
area,  generally  level,  and  is  laid  out  in  broad  streets  and  avenues,  lined  with 
elms  and  other  shade-trees.  Its  greatest  attraction  is  Harvard  Uni- 
versity, the  oldest  and  one  of  the  most  richly  endowed  institution  of 
learning  in  America.  (Harvard  College,  the  original  institution  and  still 
its  legal  name,  eventually  grew  by  the  accretion  of  supplemental  depart- 
ments, so  that  now  the  term  Harvard  University  is  applied  to  the  whole 
institution,  the  original  name,  Harvard  College,  being  retained  by  the 
academic  department  only.)  It  was  established  by  an  act  of  the  Legis- 
lature of  Massachusetts  Bay  in  1636,  but  nothing  was  done  till  John 
Harvard,  dying  in  Charlestown  in  1638,  left  half  his  property  to  endow 
the  proposed  college.  It  embraces,  besides  its  collegiate  department, 
law,  medical,  dental,  mining,  scientific,  art,  and  theological  schools.  In 
1892-93  there  were  294  instructors  and  2,966  students  in  the  Univer- 
sity, of  whom  1,985  were  in  the  college  proper.  The  University  lands 
'  in  various  parts  of  Cambridge  comprise  60  acres.  The  college  yard  con- 
tains about  15  acres,  tastefully  laid  out  and  adorned  by  stately  elms,  and 
on  the  W.  and  N.  side  are  beautiful  gates  of  wrought  iron  and  pressed 
brick  recently  given  to  the  University.  Here,  forming  a  large  quadran- 
gle, are  clustered  21  buildings  of  brick  or  stone,  from  2  to  5  stories 
high.  The  most  notable  of  these  are  Matthews'' s  Hcdl,  a  large  and  ornate 
structure  used  as  a  dormitory ;  Massachusetts  Hcdl,  an  ancient  building, . 
dating  from  1*720;  Holden  Chapel;  Harvard,  University,  Cray'' s,  Sever , 
and  Boylston  Halls  ;  Appleton  Chapel ;  Thayer  Hall,  and  Dane  Hall, 
for  the  law  school.  *  Gore  Hcdl,  within  the  quadrangle,  contains  the 
College  Library  (300,000  volumes  and  about  the  same  number  of  pam» 


Eoute  16.]  BOSTON.  107 

phlets,  the  principal  of  an  aggregate  of  40  collections  of  books,  consti- 
tuting together  the  University  Library,  which  now  contains  nearly  400,- 
000  bound  Toiumes,  and  the  largest  collection  of  maps  in  America). 
X.  of  the  quadrangle  is  ^Memorial  Hcdl^  ei'ccted  by  the  alumni  and 
friends  of  the  University  in  commemoration  of  the  students  and  gradu- 
ates who  lost  their  lives  during  the  civil  war.  It  is  a  handsome  edifice 
of  brick  and  Nova  Scotia  stone,  310  ft.  long  by  115  wide,  with  a  tower 
200  ft.  high.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  college  buildings  in  the  world,  and 
cost  $5Y5,000.  It  contains,  besides  Memorial  Hall  proper,  a  theatre 
and  a  spacious  dining-hall.  The  old  President's  house  in  the  college 
yard,  known  as  Wadsworth  House,  was  used  by  Washington  for  a  day 
or  two  before  he  transferred  his  headquarters  to  the  Craigie  House. 
Near  the  college  yard  are  the  Gy^nnasium^  i\xe '■^  University  Miiseiims 
(open  every  day  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.,  and  on  Sunday  afternoons), 
which  consist  of  the  Museum  of  Comparative  Zoology  (known  commonly 
as  the  Agassiz  Museum),  and  those  of  ethnology,  mineralogy,  botany, 
physical  geography,  and  American  archaeology  (usually  styled  the  Pea- 
body  Museum) ;  and  about  f  mile  N.  W.  are  the  Botanical  Garden  (con- 
taining a  valuable  herbarium)  and  the  Observatory.  The  Women's  Col- 
lege, known  as  the  Harvard  Annex^  is  not  a  part  of  Harvard  University, 
but  its  instructors  are  all  professors  of  the  University.  Its  home  is  in 
the  Fay  House,  fronting  the  Washington  Elm. 

W.  of  the  college  yard  is  The  Common^  on  which  stands  a  granite 
monument  erected  by  the  city  in  honor  of  her  soldiers  who  fell  in  the 
civil  war.  Near  the  Common  is  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  a  vener- 
able edifice.  In  this  church  Washington  worshiped.  It  is  near  the 
first  burying-ground  where  the  first  and  later  President  of  Harvard  Col- 
lege, Washington  AUston,  Richard  H.  Dana,  and  other  noted  Cambridge 
men,  are  buried.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Common  are  also  the  First 
Unitarian  Church,  and  the  ^  Shepard  Memoricd  Church  (Congrega- 
tional), erected  in  honor  of  Thomas  Shepard,  who  was  pastor  at  Cam- 
bridge from  1635  to  1649.  These  churches  are  both  descendants  of 
the  original  church  established  in  Cambridge,  one  representing  the  con- 
gregation and  the  other  the  church-members  of  a  body  which  remained 
one  till  the  Unitarian  controversy  divided  them.  In  front  of  the  latter 
is  the  famous  ^Washiiigton  Elm^  beneath  which  Washington  assumed 
the  command  of  the  American  army  in  1*775,  and  which  is  thought  to  be 
300  years  old.  The  principal  statues  in  Cambridge  are  those  of  John 
Harvard  (ideal),  near  Memorial  Hall ;  one  of  Josiah  Quincy,  a  former 
president  of  the  college,  in  Sander's  Theatre ;  and  one  of  John  Bridge, 
a  Puritan  settler,  on  the  Common.  Many  structures  erected  before  the 
Revolution  are  still  standing,  among  them  the  house  used  by  Washing- 
ton for  his  headquarters,  known  as  the  Craigie  House,  and  recently  in- 
habited by  the  poet  Longfellow ;  and  Elmivood,  the  home  of  James 
Russell  Lowell.  Longfellow  Park,  opposite  his  old  home,  still  keeps 
open  the  poet's  favorite  view.  On  Main  St.  stands  the  *  City  Hall.,  the 
gift  of  a  former  Cambridge  resident.  The  same  donor  also  endowed 
the  Ringe  School  of  Jfanucd  Training  and  the  Cambridge  Public  Li- 
brary., standing  on  opposite  corners  of  Broadway  and  Irving  Sts.     The 


108  BOSTOliT   TO    POETLAND.  [Eoute  17. 

library  contains  manuscripts  and  memorials  of  authors  who  have  lived 
in  Cambridge. 

The  cemetery  of  *  Mount  Aubnrn  is  in  Cambridge  (1  mile  from 
Harvard  Square,  4  miles  from  Boston),  and  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  beautiful  in  America.  It  contains  125  acres,  and  is  embellished 
by  landscape  and  horticultural  art  and  many  beautiful  and  costly  monu- 
ments. The  gateway  was  designed  after  an  Egyptian  model ;  and  near 
it  is  the  Chapel^  an  ornamented  Gothic  edifice,  containing  statues  of 
Winthrop,  Otis,  John  Adams,  and  Judge  Story.  Central,  Maple,  Chapel, 
Spruce,  and  other  leading  avenues  afford  a  circuit  of  the  entire  grounds, 
with  a  view  of  the  pi'incipal  monuments.  The  Tower^  60  ft.  high,  in 
the  rear  of  the  grounds,  is  187  ft.  above  Charles  Eiver,  and  commands 
a  fine  view.  It  is  reached  by  Central,  Walnut,  and  Mountain  Avenues. 
Numerous  lakes,  ponds,  and  fountains  in  various  parts  of  the  cemetery 
add  to  its  beauty. 

17.  Boston  to  Portland  via  "Eastern  Shore." 

By  the  phrase  "  Eastern  Shore  "  is  meant  that  part  of  the  New  England  coast 
lying  between  Boston  and  Poitland.  The  Boston  &■  Maine  R.  E.  traverses  the 
entire  distance.  Distance  from  Boston  to  Portland,  108  miles.  There  is  also  a 
line  of  steamers  from  Boston  to  Portland  daily  from  India  Wharf,  except  Sun- 
days, at  7  p.  M.,  and  from  Portland  to  Boston  daily,  except  Sundays,  at  7  p.  m. 

Leaving  Boston  by  the  Eastern  Division,  Chelsea  (5  miles)  is  speed- 
ily reached,  and  affords  a  convenient  point  fi-om  which  to  visit  the 
Chelsea  or  Revere  Beach,  a  favorite  summer  resort  of  the  less  well- 
to-do  classes  of  Boston,  who  throng  it  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  It  is 
reached  from  the  city  by  sti'eet-cars  and  also  by  the  Boston,  Revere 
Beach  &  Lynn  R.  R.,  and  affords  a  delightful  promenade  and  drive  as 
well  as  excellent  sea-bathing.  Ly^nn  (11  miles  from  Boston)  is  a 
flourishing  city  of  55,'72'7  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  shore  of  Massa- 
chusetts Bay,  and  surrounded  by  pleasing  scenery.  It  contains  some 
handsome  churches  and  school-houses,  numerous  fine  villas  of  Boston 
merchants,  a  costly  Soldiers'  Monument,  and  a  very  fine  City  Hall. 
High  Rock  is  a  commanding  eminence  in  the  center  of  the  city,  which 
affords  a  wide-extended  view.  Pine  Grove  Cemetery  is  a  beautiful 
rural  burying-ground.  Four  miles  from  Lynn  (reached  by  stage)  is 
Nahant,  a  bold  promontory  connected  with  the  mainland  by  narrow 
ridges  of  sand  and  stone  thrown  up  by  the  ocean,  above  which  the 
highest  point  rises  150  ft.  A  large  and  splendid  hotel  was  built  in 
1824,  and  numerous  summer  residents  filled  the  place  with  their  cot- 
tages, making  it  the  most  fashionable  watering-place  in  New  England  ; 
but  the  hotel  was  burned  down  in  1861,  and  since  then  the  tide  of 
pleasure-seekers  has  gone  in  other  directions,  especially  toward  Swamp- 
scott  and  Marblehead.  Several  small  hotels  [Hotel  Nahant,  Hood  Cot- 
tage) still  remain,  however,  and  the  villas  give  it  a  gay  aspect  in  sum- 
mer. The  beach  of  Nahant  (1^  mile  long)  is  hard  and  smooth,  shelving 
gently,  and  with  a  splendid  surf.  There  are  many  natural  wonders  and 
curiosities  in  the  vicinity ;  and  on  the  N.  side  the  Garden  of  Maolis  (en- 
trance, 25c.)  offers  a  picturesque  retreat  where  good  fish  or  clam  din- 


Route  17.]  BOSTON   TO    PORTLAND.  109 

ners  may  be  enjoyed.  Xahant  is  reached  from  Boston  by  steamer  as 
well  as  by  railway.^ 

A  mile  beyond  Lynn  the  train  reaches  Swampscott,  which  is  to 
Boston  what  Long  Branch  was  to  New  York,  the  favorite  summer 
resort  of  its  wealthiest  citizens.  The  leading  hotels  are  the  Blaney^ 
Hotel  Preston^  the  Lincoln  Ho^ise^  and  the  Ocean  House.  The  shore  is 
lined  with  tasteful  villas,  and  wealth  has  fairly  turned  poverty  out  of 
the  place.  There  are  3  beaches  of  varying  length,  and  picturesque 
headlands  jut  out  into  the  sea.  The  bathing  is  excellent,  with  no  under- 
tow, and  the  water  is  thought  to  be  warmer  than  at  Nahant  or  Eye 
Beach.  The  permanent  residents  are  chiefly  engaged  in  the  cod  and 
haddock  fishing,  and  supply  the  market  with  fresh  fish.  The  Swamp- 
scott Branch  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  diverges  here  to  Marblehead, 
passing  Phillips  Beach.,  Beach  Bluff.,  and  Clifton^  all  popular  resorts. 

Salem  [Essex  House -^  16  miles  from  Boston)  is  a  venerable  town  of 
30,801  population,  and  the  site  of  the  first  permanent  settlement  in  the 
old  Massachusetts  colony.  Many  interesting  historical  associations  clus- 
ter around  Salem,  and  every  period  in  her  annals  has  been  illustrated  by 
some  important  event  or  illustrious  name.  The  year  1692  is  remarkable 
as  the  date  of  the  witchcraft  delusion^  at  Salem  village,  now  a  part  of 
Danvers,  for  which  several  persons  were  tried  and  executed.  In  the 
Court-House  are  deposited  the  documents  that  relate  to  these  curious 
trials.  The  house  is  still  standing,  built  in  1634  (Roger  Williams's 
house,  at  the  corner  of  Essex  and  North  Sts.),  in  which  some  of  the 
preliminaiy  examinations  were  made.  The  place  of  execution  is  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city,  an  eminence  overlooking  the  city,  harbor,  and 
surrounding  shores,  and  known  as  Gallon's  Hill.  A  pleasant  drive  of  5 
or  6  miles  will  enable  the  visitor  to  examine  the  several  places  of  inter- 
est mentioned  in  Charles  W.  Upham's  work  on  the  subject.  Many  in- 
teresting memorials  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  are  to  be  seen  in  Salem. 
His  birthplace  is  at  21  Union  St. ;  the  Turner  House,  at  32  Turner  St., 
has  been  identified  as  "  The  House  of  the  Seven  Gables  "  ;  the  Custom- 
House,  where  "  The  Scarlet  Letter  "  was  begun ;  and  his  desk  is  in  the 
Old  P'irst  Meeting-House^  built  in  1634,  which  is  adjoining  the  Essex 
Institute.  Plummer  Hall  is  a  handsome  building  in  Essex  St.,  contain- 
ing the  library  of  the  Salem  Athenaeum  (22,000  volumes),  and  that  of 
the  Essex  Institute  (75,000  volumes,  and  a  large  collection  of  newspa- 
pers, pamphlets,  manuscripts,  and  various  historical  relics).  In  rear  of 
Plummer  Hall  is  preserved  the  frame  of  the  original  first  meeting-house, 
the  oldest  church  edifice  in  New  England,  dating  from  1634.  '^  East 
India  Marine  Hall  contains  the  fine  natural  history  collections  of  the 
Essex  Institute ;  while  the  ethnological  museum  of  the  East  India 
Marine  Society  is  in  the  new  East  Hall  (open  to  the  public  every  week- 
day from  9  A.  M.  to  5  p.  m.).  The  visitor  to  Salem  should  not  fail  to  take 
the  horse-cars  to  Peabody  (2  miles  distant),  to  visit  the  *  Peabody  In- 
stitute^ in  which  are  deposited  many  interesting  works  of  art,  and  the 

1  Fuller  particulars  of  these  beaches,  as  well  as  of  other  popular  resorts  men- 
tioned in  this  Guide,  may  be  found  in  "  Appletons'  Illustrated  Hand-book  of 
American  Summer  Resorts." 


110  BOSTON   TO   PORTLAOTD.  [Route  17. 

various  memorials  of  the  founder,  George  Peabody,  among  which  may  be 
mentioned  the  portrait  of  Queen  Victoiia,  the  Congress  Medal,  etc.  A 
short  distance  in  one  direction  from  the  Institute  building  is  the  house 
in  which  Mr.  Peabody  was  box-n,  and  about  the  same  distance  in  an 
opposite  direction,  in  Harmony  Grove  Cemetery^  is  his  grave. 

Four  miles  from  Salem  (reached  by  Marblehead  Branch  of  the  Bos- 
ton &  Maine  E.  R.)  is  the  quaint  and  interesting  old  town  of  Marble- 
head,  built  on  a  rugged,  rocky  promontory,  which  juts  far  out  into  the 
sea  and  forms  an  excellent  harbor.  This  spot  was  one  of  the  first  set- 
tled in  New  England,  the  town  of  Marblehead  having  been  incorporated 
by  the  Puritan  colony  just  15  years  after  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at 
Plymouth.  So  bleak  and  bare  are  the  Maiijlehead  rocks,  that  White- 
field  asked  in  wonder,  "  Where  do  they  bury  their  dead?"  There  are 
many  queer  houses  still  standing  which  were  built  and  occupied  before 
the  Revolution ;  the  most  noteworthy  being  the  Bank  Building^  which 
is  supposed  to  have  been  built  in  1768  for  Colonel  Jeremiah  Lee,  and 
which  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  palatial  homes  of  the  nabobs  of  the 
last  century.  A  hundred  years  ago  Marblehead  was,  next  to  Boston, 
the  most  populous  town  in  Massachusetts,  and  had  a  large  marithne 
commerce.  Xow  its  character  has  almost  wholly  changed  from  the 
olden  time,  for  it  has  become  a  center  of  the  shoe-manufacture.  The 
Old  Fort  is  a  plain,  hoary-looking  edifice,  standing  on  the  rugged  slope 
of  the  promontory  looking  toward  the  sea.  Marblehead  Neck  {Follet 
and  Komepashem€t\  easily  reached  by  boats  across  the  harbor,  or  by  a 
ride  of  2  miles  along  shore,  is  a  favorite  resort ;  many  campers-oiit  flock 
hither  to  pitch  their  canvas  tents  and  spend  a  few  weeks  of  the  heated 
term,  and  the  place  is  growing  in  popularity.  Lowell  Island^  2  miles 
distant,  is  i-eached  by  boat  from  Marblehead,  and  is  used  as  a  sanita- 
rium. It  is  noted  for  the  purity  of  its  air  and  the  beauty  of  its  views, 
and  has  a  large  summer  hotel  on  it. 

Two  miles  beyond  Salem  on  the  main  line  is  Beverly^  an  ancient 
toAvn  (population  10,821)  now  busy  with  shoe-factories.  The  Beverly 
beaches  are  very  pleasant ;  and  from  here  to  Mancliester  [Masconomo) 
the  strip  of  coast  is  lined  with  beautiful  residences  standing  amid  orna- 
mental gardens.  Magnolia  (Ilesperus)  and  other  attractive  places  are 
along  the  Gloucester  Branch  of  the  Eastern  Div.  of  the  Boston  &  Maine 
R.  R.,  running  as  it  does  to  the  extreme  point  of  Cape  Ann.  Next 
comes  Ipswich  (28  miles),  and  9  miles  beyond  this  point  is  Newbury- 
port  [Hancock  and  Wolf  Tavern),  an  old,  historic  town,  built  on  an 
abrupt  declivity  of  the  Merrimac  River,  3  miles  from  the  ocean,  hav- 
ing a  population  of  13,947.  Like  Salem  and  Marblehead,  it  is  one 
of  those  antique  coast  towns  which  have  to  a  large  extent  lost  their 
maritime  importance,  while  preserving  the  relics  and  mementos  of  a 
former  commercial  prosperity.  The  principal  industries  now  are  the 
manufactures  of  boots  and  shoes,  cotton-goods,  and  silver-ware.  The 
Marine  Museum  (in  State  St.)  contains  a  number  of  these  mementos. 
The  Public  Library,  founded  by  Josiah  Little,  was  further  endowed 
by  George  Peabod}^,  and  contains  27,000  volumes.  There  are  several 
fine  churches,  and  many  quaint  houses  of  the  olden  time,  and  the  visitor  . 


Route  i7.]  BOSTON   TO    POETLAND.  Ill 

should  uot  fail  to  see  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's  bronze  statue  of  Washington. 
Steamers  leave  every  hour  in  summer,  from  the  city  wharf,  for  Salis- 
bury Beach,  which  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast.  It  extends  about 
6  miles,  from  the  Merrimac  to  the  Hampton  River.  Twenty  years  ago 
there  was  nothing  there  but  the  lonely  breaker ;  but  now  a  good  hotel 
(the  Seaside  House)  and  many  summer  cottages  have  peopled  it.  The 
shore  descends  very  gradually,  and  on  its  long  slope  the  people  of 
the  surrounding  country  have  had  an  annual  reunion  every  September 
for  more  than  100  years.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Merrimac  is  Fhim 
Island^  extending  9  miles  in  length  and  1  in  width  ;  a  favorite  i^esort  is 
the  Phim  Island  Bofel^  just  remodeled.  From  Hampton  (10  miles  be- 
yond Newburyport)  stages  run  3  miles  to  Hampton  Beach,  a  much- 
frequented  resort,  with  numerous  summer  cottages  {Boar\s  Head  Hotel) 
that  are  generally  thronged  in  summer.  The  bathing  and  fishing  at 
Hampton  Beach  are  capital,  the  scenery  charming,  and  the  drives  in  the 
vicinity  pleasant.  Rye  Beach,  the  most  fashionaljle  of  the  New 
Hampshire  beaches,  is  reached  by  stage  in  3  miles  from  N.  Hampton,  or 
by  a  delightful  di'ive  of  'Z  miles  from  Portsmouth.  The  bathing  is  ex- 
cellent, the  surf  being  particularly  fine  and  without  any  undertow.  The 
hotels  are  the  Farragut  and  Atlantic  Hotel  and  the  Sea -View  Hotel; 
there  are  also  a  number  of  boarding-houses  and  a  colony  of  cottages. 

Portsmouth  (56  miles  from  Boston),  having  a  population  of  9,- 
82Y,  the  only  seaport  of  New  Hampshire,  is  situated  3  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Piscataqua  River,  and,  excepting  the  narrow  strip  con- 
necting it  with  the  mainland,  is  entirely  suri'ounded  by  water.  The 
harbor  is  deep  and  safe,  and  in  it  are  many  islets,  some  accessible  by 
bridges.  Here  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  well-known  summer- 
resort,  the  Isles  of  Shoals.  Portsmouth  is  a  singularly  venerable  and 
tranquil-looking  place,  with  beautifully  shaded  streets,  ancient  build- 
ings, large  gardens,  and  home-like  residences.  Among  the  objects  of 
special  interest  are  the  old  church  of  St.  John,  the  Athenciftum,  Gov- 
ernor Wentworth's  mansion  (at  Little  Harbor),  and  the  tomb  of  Sir 
William  Pepperell,  which  is  near  the  Navy-Yard.  The  Kittery  United 
States  Navy -Yard  is  located  upon  Continental  Island  (reached  by  ferry 
from  foot  of  Daniel  St.),  and  contains,  besides  the  usual  ship-houses, 
shops,  etc.,  a  very  fine  balance  dry-dock.  The  hotels  of  Portsmouth 
are  the  Kearsarge^  the  Langdon,  and  the  Rockinglutm.  The  Wentworth,  a 
large  summer  hotel,  is  on  New  Castle  Island,  about  2  miles  from  the  city. 

The  Isles  of  Shoals. 
These  are  a  group  of  eight  rugged  islands,  lying  about  9  miles  off 
the  coast,  and  reached  in  summer  from  Portsmouth  by  steamer  Oceanic, 
making  several  trips  daily,  and  connecting  with  all  trains  on  the  Con- 
cord &  Montreal  R.  R.  and  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  The  isles  are  small 
in  extent,  the  largest,  Appledore,  containing  only  250  acres.  As  the 
steamboat  approaches,  they  separate  into  distinct  elevations  of  rock, 
all  having  a  bleak  and  barren  aspect,  with  little  vegetation,  and  with 
jagged  reefs  running  far  out  in  all  directions  among  the  waves.  Ap- 
pledore rises  in  the  shape  of  a  hog's  back,  and  is  the  least  irregu- 


112  BOSTON   TO    PORTLAND.  [Route  17. 

lar  in  appearance.  Its  ledges  rise  some  Yo  ft.  above  the  sea,  and 
it  is  divided  by  a  narrow,  picturesque  little  valley,  wherein  are  situ- 
ated the  Appledoi-e  House  and  its  cottages,  the  only  buildings  on  the 
island.  Just  by  Appledore  is  Smutty  Nose  or  Haley's  Island^  low,  flat, 
and  insidious,  on  whose  sullen  reefs  many  a  stalwart  vessel  has  been 
dashed  to  destruction.  About  J  mile  beyond  is  Star  Iskmd,  once  the 
site  of  the  little  village  of  Gosport,  now  occupied  by  the  Oceanic  House, 
with  its  cottages.  On  the  W.,  toward  the  mainland,  is  Londoners  Isl- 
and, jagged  and  shapeless,  with  a  diminutive  beach  ;  while  2  miles  away 
is  the  most  forbidding  and  dangerous  of  all  these  islands.  Duck  Isla7id, 
many  of  whose  ledges  are  hidden  beneath  the  water  at  high  tide,  and  at 
low  tide  are  often  seen  covered  with  the  big  white  sea-gulls,  which  shun 
the  inhabited  isles.  White  Island,  the  most  picturesque  of  the  group, 
is  about  a  mile  S.  W.  from  Star  Island,  and  has  a  powerful  revolving 
light  on  it  which  is  visible  for  15  miles  around. 

Nine  miles  N.  E.  of  Portsmouth  is  the  hamlet  of  York,  near  which 
is  York  Beach  [Garrison  House,  Marshall  House),  a  popular  place 
of  resort  in  summer.  Cape  Neddick  runs  out  into  the  sea  at  the  N. 
end  of  the  beach,  and  a  short  distance  inland  is  Mt.  Agamenticus,  from 
the  summit  of  which  there  are  fine  views  of  the  White  Mountains,  of 
the  ocean,  and  of  the  harbors  of  Portsmouth  and  Portland.  Bcdd-Head 
Cliff  is  a  remarkable  rocky  promontory,  5  miles  N.  of  York  Beach,  of 
peculiar  conformation  and  commanding  noble  views.  Beyond,  stretch- 
ing away  to  Wells,  is  the  long  Ogunquit  Beach. 

Beyond  Poitsmouth  the  train  crosses  the  Piscataqua  River  into 
Maine  and  soon  reaches  Wells,  whence  stages  run  6  miles  to  Wells 
Beach  {Bay-  View  House  and  MaxiDcll  House).  The  beach  is  6  miles 
long,  is  covered  with  snipe  and  curlew,  and  is  a  great  rendezvous  for 
sportsmen.  In  the  woods  are  partridges  and  woodcock,  and  a  large 
trout-stream  crosses  the  beach.  From  Kennebunk  (90  miles)  the  branch 
runs  into  the  Port  (4|-  miles),  passing  the  stations  of  Parsons,  Kenne- 
bunk Beach,  and  Grove  Statio7i.  Kennebiinkport  is  a  pleasant  old  vil- 
lage, on  the  river,  only  a  mile  above  its  mouth,  where  old  ship-yai'ds 
used  to  be.  On  the  neighboring  roads  you  may  ride  to  Monsam  River 
Falls ;  or  up  to  the  Shelter  Community  at  Alfred ;  or  to  the  ancient 
trees  of  the  now  desolate  camp-grounds  ;  or  to  tranquil  old  Kennebunk  ; 
or  along  the  rocky  shore  of  Lake  Arundel  to  Cape  Porpoise,  on  one  side, 
or  down  the  sands  to  Lord's  Point  and  Hart  Beach,  on  the  other ;  or  to 
the  cities  of  Biddeford  and  Saco,  on  the  N.  Biddeford  (37  miles 
from  Portsmouth)  is  a  thriving  city  of  14,443  inhabitants,  opposite 
Saco,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Saco  River,  which  here  falls  55  ft.  and 
furnishes  a  fine  water-power  to  both  places.  The  Saco  Pool,  which 
is  in  Biddeford,  though  usually  spoken  of  in  connection  with  Saco,  is  a 
deep  basin  scooped  out  of  the  solid  rock,  about  ^  mile  from  the  sea, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  narrow  passage.  It  is  emptied  and 
filled  with  each  changing  tide,  and  is  reached  from  Biddeford  by  a 
steamer  which  runs  twice  daily  in  summer. 


Route  i?.]  BOSTOA^   TO    POETLAND.  113 

Portland. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Falmouth  House,  in  Middle  St.,  and  the  Preble  House, 
in  Monument  Square,  are  the  best.  The  City,  St.  JuJian,  United  States,  and 
West  End,  are  good.  Rates  are  from  $2  to  $3  a  day.  Street-cars  run  from  the 
Union  Station  through  the  main  streets  and  to  the  suburbs.  Reading-rooms  at 
the  Public  Library  and  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  in  Congress  St. 

Portland,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Maine,  is  picturesquely  situ- 
ated on  a  high  peninsula  at  the  S.  W.  extremity  of  Casco  Bay,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  the  country.  It  was  settled  in  1632,  and 
has  had  a  steady  growth ;  but  on  the  night  of  July  4,  1866,  a  great  fire 
swept  away  half  the  business  portion,  destroying  $10,000,000  worth  of 
property.  The  entire  district  destroyed  by  the  lire  has  since  been  re- 
built. The  streets  are  profusely  embellished  with  trees.  The  popula- 
tion in  1860  was  26,341,  in  1880,  33,810,  and  in  1890  had  increased  to 
36,425.  For  a  city  of  its  size,  Portland  has  exceptioiiaily  fine  public 
buildings.  The  *  City  Hall  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  municipal 
structures  in  the  country.  Its  front,  of  olive-colored  iiecstone,  elabo- 
rately dressed,  is  150  ft.  long,  its  depth  is  221  ft.,  and  it  is  surmounted 
with  a  graceful  dome  160  ft.  high.  The  Post-Office  is  a  beautiful 
building  of  white  Yermont  marble,  in  the  mediaeval.  Italian  style,  with 
a  portico  supported  by  Corinthian  columns.  The  CustomaHouse, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $485,000,  is  a  handsome  granite  structure,  with 
elaborate  ornamentation  within.  Kotzschraar  Hall  is  a  public  hall  with 
a  seating  capacity  of  500,  and  is  used  for  public  entertainments.  The 
Society  of  Natural  History  has  a  good  building,  with  a  fine  collection  of 
birds,  fishes,  reptiles,  shells,  and  minerals.  The  Public  Library,  incor- 
porated in  186^,  contains  35,000  volumes,  and.,  with  th.Q  Maine  Historical 
Society.^  occupies  a  handsome  building,  the  gift  of  James  P.  Baxter, 
costing  $100,000.  The  Marine  Hospital^  erected  in  1855  at  a  cost  of 
$80,000,  is  an  imposing  edifice. 

Xo  visitor  to  Portland  should  fail  to  ascend  the  *  Observatory  on 
Munjoy's  Hill,  in  order  to  enjoy  the  famous  view  from  the  top.  Xear 
the  Observatory  is  the  Eastern  Promenade.,  whence  there  is  a  pleasing 
outlook  over  the  city  and  harbor.  Congress  St.  leads  thence  to  the  West- 
ern Promenade  on  BramhalFs  Hill.  Each  of  these  promenades  is  150 
ft.  wide,  and  planted  witii  rows  of  trees.  From  BramhalFs  Hill  is  a 
noble  prospect,  as  on  a  clear  day  may  be  seen  Mounts  Washington, 
Kearsarge,  and  others  of  the  White  Mountain  range.  Lincoln  Parl\  in 
the  center  of  the  city,  contains  about  2-J^  acres.  Evergreen  Cemetery., 
containing  55  acres,  is  about  2^  miles  distant  (reached  by  electric-cars 
from  Monument  Square).  Deering  Park  (the  City  Park)  contains  50 
acres,  and  is  easy  of  access  by  street-car  or  on  foot.  There  are  many 
pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity;  we  may  mention  only  those  to  Cape 
Elizabeth  {Cape  Cottage),  around  Deering's  Yfoods,  along  Falmouth  Fore- 
side  ;  and  the  two  Promenades :  the  surrounding  scenery  is  most  en- 
chanting. Diamond  Island,  is  a  favorite  spot  for  picnics,  and  is  noted 
for  its  groves  of  noble  trees  ;  and  PeaJc's  Island  is  embowered  in  foliage, 
and  contains  several  small  summer  hotels.  Cushing's  Island  is  reached 
by  ferry  from  the  city,  and  contains  the  Ottawa  House. 
8 


114  BOSTON   TO   PORTLAND.  [Route  18. 

Among  the  notable  and  interesting  churclies  of  the  city  are  the  Epis- 
copal Cathedral  of  St.  Luke,  the  great  Catholic  Cathedral  of  the  Immacu- 
late Conception,  with  a  spire  16  ft.  higher  than  Bunker  Hill  Monument ; 
the  old  First  Parish  Church  (Unitarian),  with  heavy  walls  of  granite  and 
a  quaint  clock-tower;  the  Second  Parish  Church,  of  stone;  and  the 
First  Baptist  Church.  The  house  in  which  Longfellow  was  born  still 
stands  at  the  cor.  Fore  and  Hancock  Sts.,  once  a  fashionable  quarter, 
but  now  the  dingiest  part  of  the  town,  amid  docks  and  elevators  and 
railways.  It  is  occupied  by  several  Irish  families.  Up  in  the  busy 
residence  quarter,  in  Congress  St.,  stands  the  ancestral  Wadsworth 
mansion,  Longfellow's  abiding-place  when  he  visited  Portland  in  later 
years.  Next  door  is  the  Preble  House,  erected  by  an  Italian  architect 
in  1806  for  the  home  of  Commodore  Preble,  of  Tripoli  fame.  In  the 
Monument  Square,  which  is  the  center  of  the  city,  is  the  imposing  Sol- 
diers' Monument.  At  the  crossing  of  Congress  and  State  Sts.  is  a  bronze 
statue  of  Henry  W.  Longfellow,  by  Franklin  Simmons,  which  cost 
$12,000  and  was  erected  by  pubhc  subscription. 

Portland  is  the  point  of  departure  for  steamers,  giving  frequent  com- 
munication with  Harpswell  and  the  islands  in  Casco  Bay ;  with  Bath, 
Boothby,  Mt.  Desert,  and  Machias,  and  all  other  points  along  the  Maine 
coast  and  Penobscot  River.  The  boats  of  the  International  Steamship 
Company  run  to  Eastport  and  St.  John,  N.  B.,  making  connection  for 
Grand  Menan  Island,  the  city  of  Fredericton,  Halifax,  N.  S.,  Charlotte- 
town,  P.  E.  I.,  and  all  parts  of  the  Maritime  Provinces.  The  Portland 
Steam  Packet  Company  runs  a  daily  line  between  Portland  and  Boston. 

18.  Boston  to  Portland  via  Boston  &  Maine  E.  R. 

The  distance  is  116  miles,  and  the  fare  $2.50,  through  tickets;  $3, 
with  privilege  of  stopping  over  at  way-station.  Twelve  miles  from  Bos- 
ton is  Reading^  a  manufacturing  village.  Andover  (23  miles)  [Elm 
House^  Mansion  Hotise)  is  an  academic  town,  settled  in  1643.  The 
Theological  Semiyiary  (Congregational)  is  the  leading  institution  of  that 
sect  in  America,  and  the  Phillips  Academy  is  of  wide  reputation  and 
still  older  date  (founded  in  I'Z'ZS).  The  Albert  Female  Seminary  and 
the  Punchard  High-School  rank  high  among  schools  of  the  kind.  The 
scenery  about  Andover  is  very  pleasing,  and  the  society  of  the  place  is 
refined  and  cultivated.  Lawrence  (Fravklin  House)  is  26  miles  from 
Boston,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing  cities  of  Massachusetts, 
with  a  population  of  44,654.  Its  prosperity  dates  from  1845,  when  a 
dam  was  thrown  across  the  Merrimac  River  (on  both  sides  of  which  the 
city  is  built),  giving  a  fall  of  water  of  28  ft.,  and  furnishing  po-iver  for 
the  numerous  mills  and  factories  located  here.  The  leading  manufact- 
ures are  cotton-cloth,  woolens,  shawls,  paper,  flour,  and  files.  The  vast 
mills  are  separated  from  the  city  by  the  canal  which  distributes  the 
water-power.  This  canal  runs  parallel  with  the  river  for  a  mile,  at  a 
distance  of  about  400  ft.  from  it,  and  another  canal  has  been  cut  on  the 
S.  side.  The  Common  is  a  tasteful  little  park  of  1*7^  acres,  surrounded 
by  handsome  buildings,  including  several  churches  and  the  city  and 


Route  18.]  BOSTON    TO    PORTLAND.  115 

county  buildings.  The  finest  church  in  the  city  is  8t.  Mary' 8  (Roman 
Catholic),  a  beautiful  stone  structure  in  the  Gothic  style.  There  are  a 
number  of  good  public  libraries,  several  of  which  pertain  to  the  mills. 
On  Prospect  Hill  is  a  neat  park,  with  attractive  views.  South  Lawrence 
is  a  busy  manufacturing  suburb  across  the  river. 

Beyond  Lawrence  the  train  skirts  the  bank  of  the  Merrimac  for  7 
miles  to  Haverhill  [Hotel  Wehster\  another  lively  manufacturing  city, 
beautifully  situated  on  hills  which  slope  gently  down  to  the  river.  Shoe- 
making  is  the  leading  industry,  and  in  this  Haverhill  ranks  next  to  Lynn. 
The  city  is  well  built  and  contains  27,412  inhabitants.  The  Public  Li- 
brary is  a  very  handsome  building,  with  20,000  volumes.  The  City  Hall 
(in  Main  St.)  is  also  handsome,  and  X.  of  it  is  a  fine  white-marble  Sol- 
diers' Monument,  erected  in  1869.  A  mile  N".  E.  of  the  city  is  Lake 
Kenoza^  a  pretty  little  sheet,  named  and  celebrated  by  the  poet  Whit- 
tier,  who  was  born  in  Haverhill  in  1807.  Beyond  Haverhill  the  train 
enters  New  Hampshire  and  soon  reaches  Exeter  (51  miles),  a  pretty, 
elm-shaded  village,  seat  of  another  Phillips  Academy  and  of  the  Robin- 
son Female  Seminary.  There  are  some  important  factories  and  machine- 
shops  here,  neat  county  buildings,  and  many  tasteful  residences.  Seven- 
teen miles  beyond  (with  several  intervening  villages)  is  the  busy  little 
city  of  Dover  {American  House),  the  oldest  place  in  New  Hampshire, 
settled  in  1623.  It  now  has  12,790  inhabitants,  11  churches,  and  ex- 
tensive manufactories,  chiefly  of  cotton-cloth  and  boots  and  shoes.  The 
Coeheco  Mills  and  Print  Works  are  among  the  largest  of  the  kind  in 
the  country.  From  Dover  a  branch  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.,  runs 
in  28  miles  to  Alton  Bay  on  Lake  Winnepesaukee  (see  Route  22). 

The  stations  next  after  Dover  (Rollinsford,  Salmon  Falls,  North 
Berwick,  and  Wells)  are  small.  About  a  mile  from  Wells  is  Wells 
Leach,  already  described  (see  p.  112).  From  Kennebimk  (90  miles)  stages 
run  to  Cape  Arundel  (Ocean  Lluffs  Hotel),  a  bold  promontory  which 
is  much  resorted  to  in  summer  on  account  of  its  excellent  bathing, 
boating,  and  fishing.  Nine  miles  beyond  Kennebunk  the  train  crosses 
the  Saco  River  between  the  twin  manufacturing  cities  of  Saco  and 
Biddeford.  (see  p.  112).  Four  miles  E.  of  Saco  (reached  by  trains  on 
the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.)  is  Old  Orchard  Beach,  the  finest  in 
New  England,  and,  after  Swampscott  and  Rye,  the  most  frequented  and 
fashionable.  It  is  neai'ly  10  miles  long,  is  hard  and  smooth  as  a  floor, 
shelves  gently  to  the  water,  and  affords  unsurpassed  surf-bathing.  The 
hotels  are  the  Aldine,  Everett,  FisJce,  Lawrence,  Ocean,  Old  Orchard, 
and  Sea-Shore.  The  fishing  in  the  vicinity  is  excellent,  and  sufficient 
game  is  always  to  be  found  to  tempt  the  sportsman.  Eight  miles  be- 
yond Saco  is  Scarborough  station,  whence  stages  run  3  miles  E.  to  Scar- 
borough Beach  (Atlcmtic  House,  Kirkwood  House,  and  large  board- 
ing-houses). There  are  good  bathing  on  the  beach  and  fishing  and  hunt- 
ing near  by;  and  the  place  has  a  large  summer  patronage.  Cape 
Elizabeth,  on  the  S.  side  of  Portland  Harbor,  may  be  considered  a 
part  of  Portland,  from  which  it  is  reached  by  a  pleasant  drive.  It  is  a 
delightful  summer  resort,  with  excellent  bathing  and  fishing.  The  hotels 
are  the  Cape  Cottage  and  the  Ocean  House. 


116         PORTLAND   TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAIN'S.     [Route  19. 

19.  Portland  to  the  White  Mountains. 

a.  Via  Maine  Central  R.  R. 

The  White  Mountain  Div.  of  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  runs  through 
the  famous  Crawford  Notch,  the  heart  of  the  White  Mountain  region, 
and  offers  some  of  the  finest  scenery  to  be  found  in  America.  Observa- 
tion-cars, open  on  all  sides,  are  run  on  the  mountain  section  of  the  road. 
In  the  close  cars,  seats  on  the  right  are  most  desirable.  Between  Port- 
land and  the  mountains  there  are  many  points  of  interest.  Cumberland 
Mills,  the  station  name  for  the  thriving  city  of  Westbrook,  is  noted  for 
its  paper-mill — the  largest  in  the  world  —where  most  of  the  paper  for 
the  popular  magazines  is  made.  Sebago  l^ake  (lY  miles  from  Port- 
land) is  a  beautiful  sheet,  12  miles  long  by  9  miles  wide,  with  very 
deep,  cool,  and  clear  waters.  A  number  of  islands  dot  its  surface,  and 
its  shores  are  diversified  and  pleasing,  with  half  a  dozen  towns  nestling 
here  and  there.  At  its  N.  W.  end  it  connects  by  the  Songo  River  with 
Long  Lake,  a  river-like  body  of  water  nearly  14  miles  long  and  only  2 
miles  wide.  The  distance  between  the  two  lakes  is  but  2-i  miles  "  as 
the  crov/  flies,"  but  the  Songo  River  makes  2V  turns  and  thus  secures 
for  itself  the  length  of  6  miles.  A  steamer  during  the  summer  sea- 
son makes  daily  the  round  trip  between  Sehago  Lake  Station  and  Har- 
rison, at  the  northern  end  of  Long  Lake  (84  miles).  A  lock  in  the 
Songo  River  raises  the  steamers  and  other  craft  plying  upon  these  waters 
from  the  level  of  the  lower  to  the  upper  lake.  The  trip  to  Harrison  and 
return,  including  landings  at  Naples,  Bridgton,  and  North  Bridgton,  is 
made  in  about  8  hours,  and  affords  a  very  agreeable  excursion.  From 
Bridgton,  stages  run  1  mile  west  to  Bridgton  Center  {Bridgton 
House),  a  prettily  situated  village,  which  is  becoming  popular  as  a  sum- 
mer resort.  In  the  vicinity  are  numerous  small  ponds,  and  the  summit 
of  Pleasant  Mt.  (8  miles  distant)  affords  a  beautiful  view.  From  Harri- 
son daily  stages  run  to  South  Paris,  on  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  (14 
miles ;  fare,  $1). 

Beyond  Lake  Sebago  the  train  follows  the  valley  of  the  Saco  River, 
amid  pleasing  scenery.  Cornish  (32  miles)  is  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Saco  and  Ossipee  Rivers,  and  3  miles  beyond  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of 
the  Great  Falls  of  the  Saco,  where  the  river  descends  72  ft.  in  success- 
ive pitches.  Fryeburg  (50  miles)  is  a  pretty  village  on  the  river,  sur- 
rounded by  attractive  scenery,  and  much  resorted  to  in  summer,  when  it 
is  the  headcjuarters  of  the  Chautauquan  movement  in  northern  New 
England.  From  this  place  there  are  stages  to  various  points  in  the 
White  Mountains.  Near  the  village  are  several  eminences  from  which 
fine  panoramic  views  of  the  distant  White  Mountains  may  be  had.  Be- 
yond Fryeburg  the  State  of  New  Hampshire  is  entered.  At  North  Con- 
way (60  miles),  where  connection  can  be  made  with  the  Boston  &  Maine 
R.  R.  (Northern  Div.),  beautiful  views  are  had  from  the  cars,  and  at  In- 
tervale Station,  2^  miles  beyond,  the  road  enters  and  follows  for  some 
distance  the  charming  Conway  Intervale.  From  Glen  (65  miles),  stages 
run  in  two  miles  to  Jackson  and  in  14  miles  to  the  Glen  House  (see  p. 


Route  19.]     PORTLAND   TO   THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS.        117 

122).  At  this  point,  on  clear  days,  look  to  the  right  for  a  fine  view  of 
the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington,  with  its  gleaming  Avhite  buildings. 
Bartlett  C?!  miles)  is  a  thinving  lumbering  village,  situated  amid  pict- 
uresque scenery  in  a  smiling  intervale  walled  in  by  lofty  hills.  At 
Bemis  (7*7  miles)  the  famous  i"ide  through  the  Notch  may  be  said  to 
commence.  Xear  here  the  steeper  grade  of  the  road  begins,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  journey  to  the  summit  at  the  Crawford  House  is  only 
accomplished  by  a  continuous  ascending  grade  of  116  ft.  to  the  mile. 
The  road  rises  above  the  valley  at  some  points  to  an  elevation  of  over 
300  ft.,  affording  much  finer  views  than  any  to  be  obtained  from  the 
highway.  Three  miles  from  Bemis  is  the  '^Frankenstein  Trestle^  a 
graceful  iron  structure  spanning  a  gorge  500  ft.  wide,  and  commanding 
a  lovely  valley-view  to  the  S.,  and  to  the  N".  a  noble  view  of  Mt.  Wash- 
ington and  the  summits  of  the  Presidential  Peaks.  Crossing  the  Trestle, 
the  road  soon  curves  to  the  left  toward  Mt.  Willey,  revealing  the  sum- 
mit of  that  mountain  in  the  W.,  and  the  shoulder  of  Mt.  Webster  in  the 
E.,  these  two  eminences  forming  the  walls  of  the  Notch  proper.  An- 
other and  deeper  gorge  between  Mts.  Willey  and  Willard  is  crossed  on 
an  iron  trestle,  just  beyond  which  a  most  lovely  *  view  is  obtained  of 
the  secluded  Willey  Valley.  The  train  now  follows  the  contour  of  Mt. 
Vy'illard,  soon  enters  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Notch,  dashes  through 
the  Grreat  Cut  and  then  through  the  Gate  of  the  Notch,  emerging  upon 
the  plateau  of  the  Craioford  Bouse  (see  p.  126).  Four  miles  from  Craw- 
ford's the  train  reaches  the  Fabyan  House  (91  miles),  where  connection 
is  made  with  the  Mt.  Washington  R.  R.  for  the  summit  of  Mt.  Wash- 
ington. Fahyans  is  the  center  of  White  Mountain  travel,  and  tourists 
after  lingering  here  can  proceed  to  Zealand  Junction  (92  miles),  a  mile 
farther  along  the  line  of  the  Maine  Central,  where  connection  is  made 
with  the  Profile  Franconia  Notch  R.  R.,  for  the  Profile  House^  Maple- 
wood^  and  Bethlehem.,  all  attractive  resorts  in  the  Franconia  Range.  On 
the  way  to  Zealand  an  admirable  view  of  the  Ammonoosuc  Falls  is  obtain- 
able from  the  car  windows  on  the  left.  At  Twin  Mountain  (94  miles) 
there  is  the  Twin  Mountain  House.  The  next  station  is  Quebec  Junction., 
where  a  branch  of  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  leads  N.  to  Jefferson,  Lan- 
caster, Colebrook,  Quebec,  and  other  points,  while  the  main  line  con- 
tinues on  through  Whitejield  (104  miles),  a  mountain  village,  where 
beautiful  views  of  the  west  side  of  the  Presidential  Range  may  be  ob- 
tained, thence  on  to  Liinenhurg  [\1\  miles),  just  over  the  Connecticut 
River  in  Vermont,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  St.  Johnsbury  & 
Lake  Champlain  R.  R.  for  St.  Johnsbury,  Burlington,  Newport  (Vt.), 
and  Montreal.  Jefferson  (105  miles;  see  p.  126),  the  next  station  N.  of 
Quebec  Station,  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  of  the 
White  Mountain  resorts.  Stages  are  at  the  station  on  the  arrival  of 
trains  to  convey  passengers  to  Jeff^erson  Hill  House.,  The  Waumhek^ 
and  other  first-class  hotels.  Seven  miles  farther  Is .  is,  Lancaster  (112 
miles),  occupying  a  position  on  this  side  of  the  mountains  similar  to 
North  Conway  on  the  east  slope.  Lancaster  is  a  thriviog  village  of 
3,3'73  inhabitants.     The  Lancaster  House  is  the  chief  hotel. 


118  BOSTON   TO   THE   WHITE   MOrKTAmS.      [Uoute  20. 

h.  Via  Grand  Trunk  JR.  H. 
This  route  runs  near  the  bases  of  the  principal  White  Mountain 
peaks,  and,  like  the  preceding  route,  affords  a  succession  of  grand  and 
impressive  views.  The  stations  are :  Falmouth,  5  miles ;  Yarmouth, 
11;  Pownal,  18;  New  Gloucester,  22;  Danville  Junction,  27;  Mechan- 
ics' Falls,  36  ;  S.  Paris,  41 ;  Norway,  49  ;  Bethel,  10 ;  Gorham,  91.  All 
these  are  small  villages  or  hamlets,  most  of  which  require  no  further 
mention  at  our  hands.  Bethel  is  a  lovely  village  in  the  Androscoggin 
Valley,  with  mineral  springs,  numerous  summer  boarding-houses,  and 
fine  views  of  the  mountains.  From  Bethel  to  Gorham  the  views  are 
wonderfully  varied  and  striking,  including  Mts.  Moriah,  Washington, 
Madison,  Adams,  and  Jeiferson,  and  other  towering  peaks.  From  Gor- 
ham (described  on  p.  124)  the  whole  White  Mountain  region  is  easily 
accessible. 

20.  Boston  to  the  White  Mountains, 

a.  Via  Eastern  Division  Boston  <&  Maine  H.  R. 
This  is  the  shortest  and  quickest  route  from  Boston  to  the  White 
Mountains,  the  distance  to  North  Conway  (138  miles)  being  made  in  less 
than  6  hrs.  (fare  $4).  As  far  as  Portsmouth  (5*7  miles),  it  is  identical 
with  Route  17.  At  Conway  Junction  (10  miles  beyond  Portsmouth)  the 
Mountain  Division  diverges  from  the  mainline  and  passes  in  12  miles  to 
Rochester,  a  large  manufacturing  village  of  7,396  inhabitants,  where 
four  railroads  meet.  Hilton  (87  miles)  and  Union  (93  miles)  are  small 
hamlets,  frequented  in  summer.  From  Wolfhoro  Junction  (91  miles)  a 
branch  railroad  runs  in  12  miles  to  Wolf  boro  on  Lake  Winnepesau- 
kee  (see  Route  22).  Stations:  Wakefeld,  99  miles;  Ossipee,  111 ;  Center 
Ossipee,  115;  and  West  Ossipee,  121.  The  scenery  now  becomes  more 
pleasing,  and  Chocorua  looms  up  on  the  left.  Conway  {Conway 
House^  McMillan  Hotel^  and  Sunset  Pavilion)  stands  at  the  vestibule  of 
the  mountain-region,  and  commands  noble  views.  It  is  more  quiet  than 
North  Conway,  and  as  all  the  objects  of  interest  near  the  latter  can  be 
as  ^v'^ell  visited  from  Conway,  many  prefer  it  to  its  more  frequented 
neighbor.  Echo  Lake,  the  Cathedrcd,  and  Diana''s  Bath  (described  in 
connection  with  N.  Conway)  are  as  near  to  Conway ;  and  excursions  may 
be  made  to  other  points  of  interest — to  Chocorua  Lake  (8  miles),  to 
Champiey's  Falls.,  Conway  Center.,  and  Chatham.  At  North  Conway 
(see  p.  121)  connection  is  made  with  trains  of  the  Maine  Central  R.  R. 
without  change  of  cars,  for  the  Crawford  and  Fabyan  Houses,  Jeffer- 
son, and  Lancaster,  passing  through  the  White  Mountain  Notch,  and  for 
Glen  House. 

h.  Via  Boston  ct  Maine  R.  R.  and  connectio7is. 
As  far  as  Concord,  N.  H.  (75  miles),  this  route  is  described  in  Route 
27.  Leaving  Concord,  a  number  of  small  stations  are  passed  in  succes- 
sion. Just  beyond  Tilton  (90  miles  from  Boston)  a  fine  view  of  the  Sand- 
wich Range  is  had  on  the  left,  and  from  this  point  the  scenery  is  very 
attractive.     liaconia  is  a  busy  manufacturing  town  on  Lake  Win- 


Route  21.]  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS.  119 

nesquam,  from  which  the  summit  of  Mt.  Belknap  (see  Route  22)  may  be 
reached  in  8i  miles.  Weirs  (105  miles)  is  described  in  Route  22.  Here 
connection  is  made  with  the  Lake  Winnepesaukee  steamers ;  and  N.  Con- 
way may  be  reached  by  crossing  to  Wolfboro  and  taking  the  preceding 
route.  Stations :  J/(?JW^7/^,  109  miles;  Ashland,  11 '7;  and  Bridffewater, 
120.  Plymouth  {Pemigewasset  House)  lies  in  the  lovely  Pemigewasset 
Valley,  on  the  outskirts  of  the  White  Mountain  region,  and  amid  charm- 
ing scenery.  There  are  several  natural  curiosities  within  excursion- 
distance,  and  4  miles  N.  E.  (ascended  by  carriage-road)  is  *Mt.  Pros- 
pect (2,963  ft.  high),  aifording  what  is  said  to  be  the  finest  view  south 
of  the  mountains.  Several  small  stations  are  now  passed,  and  then 
(145  miles  from  Boston)  comes  Warren  {Tip  Top  Honse\  a  much- 
visited  highland  village,  9  miles  from  *Mt.  Moosiiaukee,  the  high- 
est peak  in  New  Hampshire  outside  of  the  White  and  Franconia  groups, 
and  commanding  magnificent  views.  From  the  Prospect  House  may  be 
seen  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut,  the  White  and  Franconia  Mountains, 
Lake  Winnepesaukee,  nearly  the  whole  of  Vermont  and  New  Hamp- 
shire, and  several  Canadian  peaks.  Stations:  E.  Haverhill,  151  miles; 
Haverhill  and  Nemherry,  156  ;  Woodsville,  166  ;  and  Wells  River  (169 
miles),  the  junction  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  (Passurapsic  Div.)  and  the 
Montpelier  &  Wells  River  R.  R.  with  the  present  route.  At  Wing 
Road.  (192  miles)  the  present  route  diverges  to  the  Timi  Moitntain 
House  (201  miles)  and  the  Fahyan  House  (206  miles).  (See  Route  21.) 
Kt  Bethlehem  Junction  (196  miles)  the  Profile  and  Franconia  Notch  R.  R. 
connects,  and  runs  to  the  Profile  House.  At  the  Fabyan  House  the 
train  connects  with  the  railway  up  Mt.  Washington,  and  with  the  Maine 
Central  R.  R. 

c.  Via  Boston  d;  Maine  P.  P. 
This  route  takes  Lake  Winnepesaukee  eu  route.  As  far  as  Dover 
(68  miles)  it  is  the  same  as  Route  18.  The  line  from  Dover  traverses 
the  Cocheco  Valley,  passing  Pochester  (see  p.  118),  Farmington  (86 
miles),  and  New  Durham  (92  miles),  and  stops  at  Alton  Bay  (96 
miles).  From  Alton  Bay  the  traveler  may  go  by  steamer  to  Weirs, 
and  thence  by  Route  h  ;  or  to  Wolfhoro,  and  thence  by  Route  a  to 
North  C onto  ay ;  or  to  Center  Harbor,  and  thence  by  stage  through 
Sandwich  to  West  Ossipee  and  thence  by  Route  a  to  North  Conway. 
(See  Roiite  22.) 

21.  The  Whits  Mountains. 

The  routes  from  Soston  to  the  White  Mornitains  are  described  in  Koute  20. 
From  Portland,  in  Route  30.  From  New  York  the  White  Mountains  may  be 
best  and  most  quietly  reached  via  Route  30  to  Wells  River,  and  thence  to  the 
Twin  Mountain,  White  Mountain,  and  Fabyan  Houses,  as  in  Route  20,  b  (draw- 
ing-room cars  through)  ;  or  (2.)  Via  New  Haven  or  New  Loudon  to  Norwich, 
Worcester,  and  Nashua,  to  Concord,  and  thence  as  in  Route  20,  b  (a  solid  through 
drawing-room  car  express  train  runs  between  New  York  and  Fabyans  by  way 
of  Connecticut  River  Line  during  the  summer  months).  (3.)  Via  steamer  to 
New  London,  thence  via  Route  31  to  Brattleboro  and  Wells  River,  and  from  the 
latter  point  as  iu  Route  20.  b.  (4.)  Via  Albany,  Rutland,  and  Bellows  Falls,  to 
Wells  River  (Routes  37  and  29),  and  thence  as  in  preceding  route.  From  Mont- 
real or  Quebec  via  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  to  Gorham.  Also  from  Montreal  via 
Canadian  Pacific,  Boston  &  Maine,  and  Maine  Central  R.  Rs.  to  Fabyan. 


120  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS.  [Route  21. 

The  White  Mountains  (the  "  Switzerland  of  America  ")  rise  from  a 
plateau  in  Grafton  and  Coos  Counties,  New  Hampshire,  about  45  miles 
long  by  30  broad,  and  1,600  ft.  above  the  sea.  Some  20  peaks  of  vari- 
ous elevations  rise  from  the  plateau,  which  is  traversed  by  several  deep, 
narrow  valleys.  The  peaks  cluster  in  two  groups,  of  which  the  eastern 
is  known  locally  as  the  White  Mountains,  and  the  western  as  the  Fran- 
conia  Group.  They  are  sepai-ated  by  a  table-land  varying  from  10  to 
20  miles  in  breadth.  The  principal  summits  of  the  eastern  group  are 
Mounts  Washington  (6,293  ft.  hio-h),  Adams  (5,819),  Jefferson  (5,736), 
Clav  (5,554),  Monroe  (5,396j,  Madi'son  (5,381),  Franklin  (4,923),  Pleasant 
(4,781),  Clinton  (4,331),  and  Webster  (3,930).  The  principal  summits 
of  the  Franconia  Group  are  Mounts  Lafayette  (5,269  ft.),  Moosilaukee 
(4,810),  Liberty  (4,472),  Cherry  Mountain  (3,600),  and  Pleasant  (2,018). 
Near  the  S.  border  of  the  plateau  rise  Whiteface  Mountain  (4,057  ft.), 
Chocorua  Peak  (3,508),  Mount  Ossipee  (2,956),  and  Red  Hill  (2,038); 
and  in  the  S.  E.,  Mount  Kearsarge  (3,270).  With  the  exception  of  the 
Black  Mountains  of  North  Carolina,  several  of  these  peaks  are  the 
highest  elevations  in  the  United  States  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Multitudes  of  little  streams  force  their  way  down  steep  glens  from 
springs  far  up  the  mountain-sides,  and  flow  through  narrow  valleys 
among  the  hills.  The  courses  of  these  rivulets  furnish  irregular  but 
certain  pathways  for  the  rough  roads  that  have  been  cut  beside  them, 
and  by  which  the  traveler  gains  access  to  these  wild  mountain- 
retreats. 

The  aboriginal  name  of  the  White  Mountains  was  Agiochook  or 
Affiocochool%  signifying  "  Mountain  of  the  Snowy  Forehead  and  Home 
of  the  Great  Spirit."  The  first  white  man  to  visit  them,  according  to 
Belknap,  the  State  historian,  was  Walter  Neal,  in  1632.  The  Notch 
was  discovered  in  1771,  the  first  inn  was  erected  in  1803,  a  bridle-path 
to  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington  was  cut  in  1819,  and  the  first 
hotel  was  opened  in  1852.  Since  this  latter  date  the  popularity  of  the 
mountains  has  steadily  increased,  and  each  summer  they  are  largely  vis- 
ited by  tourists.  As  to  the  time  to  visit  them,  Starr  King  recommends 
the  early  summer.  "  From  the  middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  July, 
foliage  is  more  fresh  ;  the  cloud-scenery  is  nobler ;  the  meadow-grass 
has  a  more  golden  color ;  the  streams  are  usually  more  full  and  musical ; 
and  there  is  a  larger  proportion  of  the  '  long  light '  of  the  afternoon, 
which  kindles  the  atmosphere  into  the  I'ichest  loveliness.  The  mass  of 
visitors  to  the  White  Mountains  go  during  the  dog-days,  and  leave  when 
the  finer  September  weather  sets  in,  with  its  prelude  touches  of  the 
October  splendor.  In  August  there  are  fewer  clear  skies ;  there  is  more 
fog  ;  the  meadows  are  appareled  in  more  sober  green  ;  the  highest  rocky 
crests  may  be  wrapped  in  mists  for  days  in  succession ;  and  a  traveler 
has  fewer  chances  of  making  acquaintance  with  a  bracing  mountain- 
breeze.  The  latter  half  of  June  is  the  blossom-season  of  beauty  in  the 
mountain-districts ;  the  first  half  of  October  is  the  time  of  its  f  ull-hued 
fruitage." 

In  describing  the  mountains,  we  shall  begin  at  North  Conway,  the 
S.  E.  portal,  and  proceed  by  the  usual  routes  to  different  points,  describ- 


Boiite  21.]  THE   WHITE   MOITI^TAmS.  121 

ing  in  connection  with  each  the  various  features  of  interest  in  its  neigh- 
borhood. Of  course,  the  toui'ist  can  arrange  his  routes  differently,  and 
still  find  the  description  equally  serviceable. 

North   Conway. 

This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  the  entire  mountain-region,  and 
is  a  favorite  rendezvous  for  artists  and  tourists  who  wish  to  be  within 
easy  excursion-distance  of  the  mountains,  while  avoiding  the  excitement 
ancl  expense  of  the  larger  hotels.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  terrace 
overlooking  the  intervales  of  the  Saco,  and  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
mountains.  On  the  E.  the  rugged  Rattlesnake  Ridge  walls  it  in,  Kear- 
sarge  or  Pequawket  rising  in  lonely  dignity  a  little  to  the  N. ;  on  the  W. 
are  the  Moat  Mountains,  with  the  peak  of  Chocorua  in  the  distance ;  and 
on  the  N.  and  N.  W.  almost  the  whole  line  of  the  White  Mountains 
proper,  crowned  in  the  center  with  the  dome  of  Mount  Washington, 
closes  in  the  view.  The  leading  hotel  of  the  village  is  the  Kearsarge 
House.,  a  large  and  Avell-kept  house  with  accommodations  for  300  guests. 
The  Intervale  House  1^  mile  N.  of  the  village,  is  large  and  excellent,  and 
commands  a  unique  and  beautiful  view  of  the  mountains  up  a  long  val- 
lej'-vista.  Other  hotels  are  the  Eastman  House,  the  McMillan  House, 
the  North  Conway  House,  the  Randall  House,  and  the  Sunset  Pavilion. 
The  rates  at  all  these  houses  are  from  $3  to  $4  per  day.  There  are 
also  many  boarding-houses  in  the  village  ($7  to  $14  a  week). 

There  are  several  points  of  interest  in  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood of  North  Conway.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  about 
3  miles  distant,  are  The  Ledges,  a  series  of  tall  cliffs  from  100  to  900 
ft.  high,  which  extend  along  the  mountain-side  for  4  or  5  miles.  A 
figure  of  a  horse  (called  the  "  White  Horse " )  can  be  fancied  on  the 
side  of  one  of  these  cliffs,  and  is  visible  from  the  village.  *Echo 
Lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  lying  at  the  very  base  of  the  cliffs 
(Moat  Mountain),  and  is  celebrated  for  the  distinctness  of  the  echo 
which  it  throws  back.  Above  Echo  Lake  (reached  by  climbing  the  chff) 
is  the  *  Cathedral  (3  miles  from  N.  Conway),  a  cavity  in  the  granite. 
The  wall  gradually  inclines  outward,  forming  a  magnificent  Gothic  arch 
40  ft.  long,  20  wide,  and  60  high,  with  noble  forest-trees  constituting  the 
outer  wall.  A  little  north  of  the  Cathedral,  approached  by  a  pleasant 
woodland  path,  is  Diana'' s  Bath,  a  crystal  pool,  10  ft.  in  diameter  and 
more  than  10  ft.  deep,  overhung  with  trees,  and  having  a  beautiful  cas- 
cade just  below.  Favoi'ite  drives  are  Around  the  Square  (5  miles)  and 
the  Thorn  Hill  Drive,  which  ascends  one  of  the  spurs  of  Thorn  Mount- 
ain and  affords  a  fine  view.  *  Mt.  Kearsarge  (or  Pequawket),  3  miles 
from  the  village,  is  3,270  ft.  high,  and-is  easily  ascended.  Parties  of  2 
or  3  persons  are  carried  from  North  Conway  to  the  foot  of  the  mount- 
ain for  50c.  each.  A  fair  bridle-road  leads  to  the  summit.  As  this 
is  the  highest  peak  S.  of  the  mountains  in  this  direction,  the  view  from 
its  summit  is  extremely  fine,  embracing  the  whole  White  Mountain 
range,  and  an  especially  good  view  of  Mt.  Washington.  The  sharp 
peaks  of  Chocorua,  with  the  Moat  Mountain  in  the  foreground,  can  also 
be  seen  with  great  distinctness ;  the  course  of  the  Saco  River  can  be 


122  THE    WHITE    MOUI^TAINS.  .[Roilte  21. 

traced  almost  from  its  source,  as  it  winds  among  the  intervales,  and 
finally  bends  away  into  Maine ;  and  in  the  broad  level  expanse  toward 
the  S.  E.  the  eye  is  caught  by  Sebago  Lake,  Lovewell's  Pond,  and  numer- 
ous smaller  bodies  of  water.  There  is  a  small  building  on  the  summit, 
at  which  those  wishing  to  see  the  gorgeous  sunset  and  sunrise  views 
can  remain  overnight. 

North  Conway  to  Gorham. 

Many  picturesque  stage-routes,  which  used  to  form  the  only  modes  of  com- 
munication from  point  to  point,  still  afford  enjoyable  rides.  The  road  from 
North  Conway  to  the  Glen  House  (20  miles),  and  thence  to  Gorham,  traverses 
some  of  the  most  striking  scenes. 

For  a  few  miles  after  leaving  North  Conway  the  road  passes  up  the 
valley  of  the  Saco,  amid  delightful  scenery,  with  Mt.  Kearsarge  looming 
up  grandly  on  the  right  and  presenting  an  endless  variety  of  forms.  At 
Bartlett  the  old  stage-road  to  the  Notch  diverges  to  the  W.,  while  the 
one  we  are  pursuing  runs  nearly  due  N.  At  the  crossing  of  the  Ellis 
River,  the  former  site  of  the  Goodrich  Falls  is  seen.  These  falls  were 
among  the  heaviest  and  finest  in  the  White  Mountains,  but  were  spoiled 
in  1875  by  the  erection  of  a  mill.  In  seasons  of  high  water  they  are 
still  imposing.  For  the  next  mile  the  road  is  bordered  by  heavily  wood- 
ed hills,  between  which  occasional  glimpses  are  had  of  the  summits  of 
the  Washington  range,  and  the  little  hamlet  of  Jackson  is  reached. 
There  is  a  church  here  (Baptist),  several  hotels  {Arclen  House^  Glen 
Ellis  Hotel,  Gray^s  Inn,  Jackson  Falls  House,  Thorn  Mountain  House^ 
and  Wentworth  Hall),  and  some  half  a  dozen  houses.  From  the  portico 
of  the  first-mentioned  hotel  there  is  a  noble  view  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  with  Iron  Mountain  (2,'736  feet)  on  the  right,  and  the  bold 
peak  of  Tin  Mountain  (1,650  feet)  on  the  left.  Within  three  minutes' 
walk  of  the  hotel  are  Jackson  Falls,  a  romantic  cascade  on  the  Wild-Cat 
Brook.  In  this  vicinity  is  some  of  the  best  trout-fishing  to  be  found 
among  the  mountains,  and  the  place  is  much  frequented  by  sportsmen 
and  artists.  On  leaving  Jackson,  there  is  an  impressive  view  of  the 
dark  gorges,  which  open  miles  away  toward  Mt.  Washington,  and  then 
the  road  ascends  through  the  desolate  Pinkham  Notch,  filled  with  an  al- 
most unbroken  forest.  About  V  miles  beyond  Jackson,  a  path  to  the 
right  leads  to  the  Glen  Ellis  Falls,  which  are  quite  near  the  road,  and  a 
little  farther  on  is  the  entrance  to  the  Crystal  Cascade.  Here  the  Pea- 
body  River  is  crossed  twice  in  quick  succession,  and  a  further  ride  of  3 
miles  brings  us  to  our  destination. 

The  Glen  House,  built  in  the  spring  of  1885,  fronts  the  Peabody 
River  and  the  Washington  range,  to  which  it  is  nearer  than  any  other 
hotel  in  the  mountains,  five  of  the  highest  peaks  being  in  full  view 
from  the  portico.  Directly  in  front  are  the  outworks  and  huge  shoulder 
of  Mt.  Washington  itself.  Next  comes  Mt.  Clay  (5,554  ft.),  rising  over 
the  huge  "Gulf  of  Mexico";  then  Jefferson  (5,736  ft.) ;  then  Adams 
(5,819  ft.);  and,  finally,  Madison  (5,381  ft.).  From  the  hotel,  parties  on 
Mt.  Washington  may  readily  be  seen  with  the  aid  of  a  glass.  (Stages 
connect  with  Gorham  (8  miles),  on  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.,  and  Glen  Sta- 


Boute  21.]  THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS.  1^3 

tion  (14  miles),  on  Maine  Central  E.  R.,  and  twice  a  day  with  the  Mt. 
Washington  R.  R.     Fare,  $6.) 

In  the  vicinity  are  many  points  of  interest.  The  Garnet  Fools, 
about  i-  mile  distant,  near  the  Gorham  road,  are  a  series  of  basins  in 
the  Peabody  River,  some  of  them  15  and  20  ft.  deep,  worn  in  the 
granite  rock  by  the  action  of  the  water.  *  Thompson's  Falls 
are  a  series  of  picturesque  cascades  in  an  affluent  of  the  Peabody 
River,  2  miles  from  the  hotel,  on  the  road  to  North  Conway.  The 
view  of  Mt.  W^ashington  and  Tuckerman's  Ravine,  from  the  upper  fall, 
is  the  tinest  that  is  obtained  from  any  point.  Emerald  Fool,  noted  for 
its  quiet  sylvan  beauty,  is  a  short  distance  from  the  road  just  before 
reaching  Thompson's  Falls.  On  the  North  Conway  road  a  path  through 
the  woods  leads  to  the  Crystal  Cascade,  "  an  inverted  liquid 
plume,"  80  ft.  high,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  Tuckerman's  Ravine, 
The  best  view  of  the  cascade  is  not  from  the  foot,  but  from  a  high 
moss-covered  bank  opposite.  A  mile  beyond  (4  miles  from  the  hotel), 
a  plank-walk  to  the  left  leads  to  the  *  Glen  Ellis  Fall,  where  the 
Ellis  River  slides  20  ft.  over  the  cliff  at  a  sharp  angle  and  then  plunges 
60  ft.  into  a  dark-green  pool  below.  This  is  one  of  the  loveliest  cas- 
cades in  the  entire  region.  *  Tuckerman's  Ravine  is  a  tremen- 
dous chasm  in  the  S.  side  of  Mt.  Washington,  whose  frowning  walls, 
1,000  ft.  high,  are  plainly  visible  from  the  hotel.  It  is  filled,  hun- 
dreds of  feet  deep,  by  the  winter  snows,  through  which  a  brook  steals 
as  summer  draws  near,  gradually  widening  its  channel  until  it  flows 
through  a  grand  snow-cave,  which  was  found,  by  actual  measurement 
one  season,  to  be  84  ft.  wide  on  the  inside,  40  ft.  high,  and  180  ft. 
long.  The  snow  forming  the  arch  was  20  ft.  thick.  The  engineers 
of  the  carriage-road  up  Mt.  Washington  dined  in  that  snow-arch  July 
16,  1854.  After  rain  the  cliffs  back  of  the  ravine  present  an  appear- 
ance which  has  gained  for  them  the  name  of  the  "Fall  of  a  Thou- 
sand Streams."  The  ravine  is  reached  from  the  Grlen  by  Thompson's 
Path,  which  diverges  from  the  carriage-road  about  2  miles  up  the 
mountain  (distance  4^  miles),  or  by  a  rugged  and  difficult  path  by  the 
brook-side  from  Crystal  Cascade.  The  more  common  way  of  visiting 
it,  howevei^,  is  to  descend  into  it  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington. 
The  distance  from  the  summit  to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  is  about  a 
mile. 

The  Carriage-road  up  Mt.  Washington  from  the  Glen  was, 
until  the  completion  of  the  steam-railway,  the  easiest  and  most  popular 
way  of  reaching  the  summit,  and  is  still  preferred  by  many.  The  road 
was  begun  in  1855  and  completed  in  1861,  and  is  a  noble  piece  of  en- 
gineering. The  average  grade  is  12  ft.  in  100,  and  the  steepest, 
which  is  2 1^  miles  from  the  base,  is  16  in  100  for  a  short  distance  only. 
The  tolls  are,  for  each  person  on  foot,  32c. ;  on  horseback  or  in  car- 
riages, 80c.  The  fare  for  a  seat  in  one  of  the  regular  mountain-car- 
riages, which  leave  the  Glen  House  morning  and  afternoon,  is  $5  for 
the  round  trip,  $3  either  way.  The  time  required  for  the  ascent  is 
about  3  hours,  and  for  the  descent  l-J  hour. 


124  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAIKS.  [Route  21. 

The  Glen  House  to  Gorham. 

Stages  run  from  the  Glen  House  to  Gorham  to  connect  with  all 
trains  on  Grand  Trunk  R.  E.,  which  is  8  miles  N.  E.  (fare,  $1.50).  The 
ride  is  down  the  valley  of  the  Peabody,  with  tine  mountain-views.  About 
2-|-  miles  from  the  Glen  is  a  bridge  over  the  Peabody  River,  by  crossing 
which  and  proceeding  to  a  point  near  a  farmhouse,  \  mile  from  the  road, 
the  traveler  may  see  The  Imp,  a  peak  of  Mt.  Moriah,  so  named  from 
the  marked  resemblance  which  the  summit  bears  to  a  grotesque  human 
countenance. 

Gorham  {Alpine  House,  Eagle  House,  Randolph  Hill  House),  the 
N".  E.  gateway  to  the  mountain-region,  is  a  thriving  village,  situated  in  a 
broad  and  beautiful  valley  at  the  confluence  of  the  Androscoggin  and 
Peabody  Rivers,  800  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  station  on  the  Grand 
Trunk  R.  R.,  whose  repair-shops  are  located  here.  The  scenery  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  village  is  remai'kably  striking,  both  in  the  views  of  the 
mountain-ranges  and  isolated  mountains,  and  of  rivers  and  waterfalls. 
The  range  of  Mts.  Moriah,  Carter,  and  The  Imp,  in  particular,  is 
seen  to  great  advantage.  Mt.  Carter  is  one  of  the  highest  and  Mt. 
Moriah  the  most  graceful  of  the  larger  New  Hampshire  hills ;  the  best 
view  of  them  is  from  the  Alpine  House.  The  noble  chain  of  hills  to 
the  N.  W.  of  Gorham  is  known  as  the  Pilot  Range ;  while  on  the  E. 
and  S.  E.  the  valley  Is  Availed  in  by  the  stalwart  and  brawny  Andros- 
coggin Hills.  *Mt,  Hayes,  the  highest  of  these  latter  (2,500  ft.),  is 
directly  N.  E.  of  the  village,  and  may  be  ascended  by  a  path  leading 
directly  to  the  summit  in  two  hours.  "  The  picture  from  the  summit 
can  not  be  sufficiently  praised.  The  view  of  Adams  and  JefPerson, 
sweeping  from  the  uplands  of  Randolph,  will  never  be  forgotten.  And 
Mt.  Washington  shows  no  such  height,  or  grandeur,  when  seen  from 
any  other  point."  *Mt.  Surprise,  a  spur  of  Mt.  Moriah,  fronts  Mt. 
Hayes  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley,  and  a  bridle-path  leads  from 
the  village  to  its  summit  (2-|  miles).  This  bridle-path  was  formerl}' 
feasible  for  horses,  but  it  has  been  allowed  to  get  so  much  out  of  re- 
pair as  to  be  no  longer  safe  even  for  pedestrians  without  the  aid  of  a 
guide.  Mt.  Surprise  is  1,200  ft.  high,  and  its  summit  affords  a  grand 
view  of  the  "  Presidential  group  "  (Adams,  Washington,  Jefferson,  and 
Madison).  "  There  is  no  other  eminence  where  one  can  get  so  near  to 
these  monarchs,  and  receive  such  an  impression  of  their  sublimity,  the 
vigor  of  their  outlines,  their  awful  solitude,  and  the  extent  of  the  wil- 
derness which  they  bear  upon  their  slopes."  The  highest  summits  of 
the  range  rise  directly  against  the  eye,  with  no  intei-vening  ridge  or 
obstacle.  Mt.  Moriah,  4,065  ft.  high,  can  now  only  be  ascended  on 
foot,  though  there  was  once  a  good  bridle-path.  The  ascent  is  tedious 
but  not  ottierwise  difficult,  and  the  vicAv  from  the  summit  is  very 
striking. 

Randolph  Hill,  600  ft.  higher  than  the  valley,  is  reached  by  a  pleas- 
ant carriage-drive  of  5  miles  from  Gorham,  and  from  its  summit  a  su- 
perb view  is  obtained  of  the  whole  northerly  wall  of  the  Mt.  Washington 
range.     From  the  foot  of  Randolph  Hill  a  path  has  been  "  blazed " 


Route  21.']  THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS.  125 

through  the  forest  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Madison^  which  may  be  ascended 
with  guides.  The  summit  is  5,381  ft.  high,  and  the  outlook  which  it 
affords  is  only  inferior  to  that  from  the  peak  of  Mt.  Washington.  It  is 
possible  for  a  strong  pedestrian  (with  guides)  to  start  from  Gorham 
early  in  the  morning,  and,  ascending  Mt.  Madison,  pass  over  its  summit, 
around  or  over  the  sharp  pyramid  of  Adams,  over  Jefferson,  between 
the  humps  of  Mt.  Clay,  and  reach  the  hotels  on  the  summit  of  Mt.  Wash- 
ington before  sunset.  This  route  would  lie  among  and  over  the  largest 
mountains  of  the  White  Mountain  range,  and  would  afford  a  continuous 
succession  of  unrivaled  views.  From  the  Lead-Mine  Bridge^  4  miles  E. 
of  the  village,  a  pleasing  view  is  obtained  of  the  Androscoggin,  dotted 
with  islands  in  the  foreground,  with  the  mountains  in  the  distance.  It 
should  be  visited  between  5  and  Y  o'clock  p.  m.,  in  order  to  see  the  sun 
set  behind  the  mountains.  An  extremely  attractive  drive  of  6  miles 
along  the  W.  bank  of  the  river  leads  to  the  *  Berlin  Falls,  where 
the  whole  volume  of  the  Androscoggin  pours  over  a  granite  ledge, 
descending  nearly  200  ft.  in  the  course  of  a  mile.  The  best  views 
of  the  cataract  are  obtained  from  a  jutting  rock  near  the  lower  end, 
and  from  the  bridge  above  which  spans  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
stream. 

Stages  leave  Gorham,  on  the  arrival  of  the  trains,  for  the  Glen 
House  (8  miles ;  fare,  $1.50).  The  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington  may  be 
made  from  Gorham  in  a  day  via  the  Glen  House. 

Gorham  to  the  Notch. 

Since  the  completion  of  the  carriage-road  on  the  E.  side,  and  of  the 
railroad  on  the  W.  side,  nearly  all  the  travel  through  the  mountains 
passes  over  Mt.  Washington,  and  comparatively  few  tourists  go  by  the 
old  stage-routes.  These,  however,  have  not  lost  their  charm,  and  who- 
ever can  spare  the  time  should  certainly  make  the  trip  from  Gorham  to 
the  Xotch,  via  the  "Cherry  Mountain  Road,"  now  to  be  described.  The 
scenery  along  its  entire  length  is  grander  than  is  afforded  by  any  other 
route  among  the  mountains.  The  distance  is  32  miles.  There  is  no 
regular  stage,  but  mountain-wagons  can  be  hired  at  Gorham  on  reason- 
able terms.  The  beauties  of  the  road  i,>egin  almost  before  the  village  is 
left  behind.  It  takes  in  the  glorious  outlook  from  Randolph  HUl,  of 
which  we  have  already  spoken ;  it  commands  every  slope  and  summit 
of  the  Mt.  Washington  range  from  the  N. ;  and  for  12  miles  of  the  way 
they  are  all  in  view  at  once,  with  no  intervening  hills  to  break  tiie  im- 
pression of  their  majesty.  The  mountain-forms  are  much  grander  on 
the  northerly  than  on  the  southern  side,  and  the  road  we  are  traversing 
commands  the  finest  views  obtainable  in  this  direction.  "From  the 
village  of  Jefferson  (Starr  King  House),  through  which  this  Cherry 
Mountain  road  runs,  not  only  is  every  one  of  the  great  White  Mountain 
group  visible,  but  also  the  Franconia  Mountains,  the  side  of  the  Willey 
Mountain,  in  the  Notch,  the  line  of  the  nearer  Green  Mountains  beyond 
the  Connecticut — in  fact,  a  panorama  of  hills  to  the  northwest  and 
north  almost  as  fine  as  the  prospect  in  that  direction  from  the  summit 
of  Mt.  Washington."     The  finest  point  of  view  is  *  Jefferson  Hill 


126  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS.  [Boute  21. 

(17  miles  from  Gorham),  which  is  becoming  one  of  the  most  frequented 
resorts  in  the  White  Mountain  region.  Here  are  the  Jefferson  Hill  Hovse, 
the  Mountain  House ^  the  Plaisted  House.,  the  Starr  King.,  the  Waumhek 
House.,  and  numerous  boarding-houses.  The  rates  at  the  hotels  are  $9 
to  $18  per  week ;  at  the  boarding-houses,  $7  to  $12.  The  view  of  the 
mountains,  above  described,  is  incomparably  fine  from  the  Waumbek 
House ;  and  from  the  piazza,  with  a  glass,  people  on  the  summit  of  Mt. 
Washington  can  be  distinctly  seen,  and  the  trains  moving  up  and  down 
the  steep  side.  The  remainder  of  the  road  to  the  Crawford  House 
(16  miles)  is  scarcely  inferior  in  scenic  grandeur  to  that  already  de- 
scribed, and  the  entrance  of  the  Notch  is  extremely  fine.  The  White 
Mountain  House  and  the  Fabyan  House  are  passed  en  route.  There 
is  a  shorter  route  from  Gorham  to  the  Notch  than  the  preceding,  but 
it  is  much  less  attractive,  and  in  engaging  the  carriage  care  should  be 
taken  to  stipulate  for  Jefferson  Hill. 

The  CraAvford  House  and  Yicinity. 

The  Crawford  House  is  a  large  and  popular  summer-hotel,  situ- 
ated on  a  little  plateau  1,899  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  facing  the  Notch. 
It  bears  the  name  of  the  earliest  hosts  of  these  mountain-gorges,  and 
is  near  the  site  of  the  old  Notch  House,  one  of  the  first  taverns  opened 
in  the  White  Mountain  region.  The  Crawford  House  and  adjacent 
hotels  are  now  connected  with  the  outside  world  by  two  lines  of  rail- 
way, and  passengers  can  run  through  from  Boston  to  the  very  doors 
(see  Routes  19  and  20).  The  station  of  the  Maine  Central  R.  R. 
stands  a  few  rods  from  the  front  of  the  hotel.  Within  a  stone's-throw 
of  the  hotel  and  of  each  other  there  are  two  springs,  one  of  which  dis- 
charges its  waters  into  the  Saco,  while  the  other  empties  into  a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Ammonoosuc,  and  reaches  the  sea  through  the  Connecticut. 
In  front  of  the  house,  near  the  gate  of  the  Notch,  is  a  tiny  lake,  which 
forms  the  head-waters  of  the  Saco. 

A  favorite  excursion  from  the  hotel  is  the  ascent  of  *  Mt.  Willard, 
which  is  easily  made  by  a  road  2  miles  long,  either  in  carriages  or  on 
foot.  The  summit  is  2,570  ft.  high,  and  commands  a  Avonderful  view 
of  the  trejnendous  gulf  of  the  Notch,  and  of  the  mountain-peaks  far  and 
near.  Speaking  of  the  view  of  the  Notch  from  this  point,  Bayard  Tay- 
lor says,  "  As  a  simple  picture  of  a  mountain-pass,  seen  from  above,  it 
can  not  be  surpassed  in  Switzerland."  Near  the  summit  of  the  mount- 
ain, on  the  S.  side,  is  the  DeviVs  Ben.,  a  dark,  cold  cave,  about  20  ft. 
deep,  15  high,  and  20  wide,  only  accessible  by  means  of  ropes.  Gibbs's 
Falls  are  a  series  of  romantic  cascades,  reached  by  a  walk  of  half  an 
hour  from  the  hotel,  along  the  aqueduct  by  which  it  is  supplied  with 
water,  and  then  along  the  brook-side.  The  falls  are  about  J  of  a  mile 
from  where  the  aqueduct  issues  from  the  brook.  Beecher^s  Falls  (named 
after  Rev.  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  who  is  said  to  have  taken  an  involun- 
tary bath  in  one  of  the  basins)  are  situated  on  the  slope  of  Mt.  Lincoln, 
and  may  be  reached  by  an  easy  path  through  the  woods  to  the  right  of 
the  hotel.  They  consist  of  a  series  of  beautiful  cascades  extending  for 
^  mile  along  a  mountain-brook.     From  some  shelving  rocks  at  the  head 


Route  21.]  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS.  127 

of  the  uppermost  fall,  called  the  "Flume  Cascade,"  there  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington. 

The  favorite  excursion  from  the  Crawford  House  is  through  the 
famous  *  IVotch,  which  is  seen  to  the  best  advantage  as  approached 
from  this  direction,  the  giant  masses  of  Webster,  Willard,  and  Willey 
being  directly  in  front.  The  Notch  is  a  tremendous  gorge  or  rift  in 
the  mountains,  which  rise  on  either  side  to  the  height  of  2,000  ft.,  and 
which,  in  one  spot,  called  the  "  Gateway,"  are  only  22  ft.  apart.  The 
Saco  River  runs  through  it,  and  also  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.,  which 
along  the  slopes  of  Mount  Willey  is  300  ft.  above  the  stage-road.  The 
Elephants  Head  is  a  rocky  bluff  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Notch,  about  \ 
mile  from  the  hotel,  the  supposed  resemblance  of  which  to  an  elephant's 
head,  as  seen  from  the  hotel  piazza,  gives  it  its  name.  Just  within  the 
Gate,  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  Old  Maid  of  the  Mountain^  a  great  stone 
face  on  a  spur  of  Mt.  Webster.  An  overhanging  rock  on  the  same  side 
of  the  road  is  called  the  DevWs  Pvl^nt^  and  on  the  face  of  this  the  pro- 
file of  The  Infant  is  visible  to  imaginative  minds.  Directly  opposite  the 
Devil's  Pulpit  is  another  profile  called  the  Yovng  Man  of  the  Mountain  ; 
and  far  up  the  slopes  of  Mt.  Willard  is  the  black  mouth  of  the  Devil's 
Den,  already  mentioned.  The  Flume  is  a  portion  of  a  little  mountain- 
stream,  to  the  left  of  the  road  about  f  mile  from  the  hotel.  A  little 
farther  down  the  Notch  is  the  *  Silver  Cascade,  the  finest  waterfall 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  mountains.  The  stream,  the  upper  part  of  which 
is  visible  from  the  piazza  of  the  hotel,  descends  800  ft.  in  the  course 
of  a  mile,  400  of  which  are  nearly  perpendicular.  The  best  view  is  from 
the  bridge,  near  which  the  current  rushes  through  a  narrow  flume,  like 
that  already  described.  Passing  down  the  Notch  between  Mts.  Willey 
and  Webster,  we  come  to  the  Willey  Hovse  (3  miles  from  the  hotel), 
where  the  whole  Willey  family,  9  in  number,  were  crushed  by  an  ava- 
lanche from  which  they  were  trying  to  escape,  August  28,  1826.  A  rock 
30  ft.  high  split  the  avalanche  and  saved  the  house  from  which  they 
fled  to  their  death.  The  house  is  occupied,  and  a  small  entrance-fee  is 
charged,  but  there  is  nothing  inside  to  interest.  Three  miles  beyond 
the  Willey  House,  on  Avalanche  Brook,  a  small  mountain-stream  empty- 
ing into  the  Saco,  is  the  *  Sylvan  Glade  Cataract,  regarded  by 
many  as  the  finest  waterfall  in  the  mountains.  It  is  2  miles  from  the 
road,  in  a  steep  ravine,  whose  cliffs,  crowned  with  a  dense  forest  of 
spruce,  are  singularly  grand.  The  cascade  leaps  first  over  4  rocky 
ledges,  each  about  6  ft.  high,  and  then  glides  at  an  angle  of  45°  down 
a  solid  bed  of  granite  150  ft.  into  the  pool  below.  It  is  about  75  ft. 
wide  at  the  base,  and  50  at  the  summit.  A  mile  above  the  cataract, 
there  are  several  other  falls,  the  finest  of  which  is  called  the  Sparkling 
Cascade.  This  is  the  limit  of  the  ordinary  excursions,  but  it  is  quite 
worth  while  to  engage  a  vehicle  and  drive  farther  along  the  old  stage- 
route  to  North  Conway.  As  we  proceed  do^oi  the  Saco  we  pass  through 
a  dense  forest  and  come  in  succession  to  the  Gianfs  Stairs^  5,500  ft. 
high;  Mt.  Resolution^  3,436;  and  Mt.  Crawford,  3,130.  Next,  the 
Mt.  Crawford  House,  once  the  most  popular  of  the  mountain  inns,  is 
passed ;  and  j  mile  Ibeyond  we   cross  Nancy^s  Brook   and  Bridge,  so, 


128  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS.  [Eoute  21. 

named  after  a  young  woman  who  perished  here  from  exposure  when  in 
pursuit  of  a  faithless  lover.  ISi'ear  by  is  the  grave  of  Abel  Crawford, 
"  patriai'ch  of  the  mountains." 

The  *  Bridie-Path  up  Mt.  Washington  from  the  Crawford 
House  commands  liner  views  than  any  other  route,  leading  over  the 
summits  of  Mts.  Clinton,  Pleasant,  Franklin,  and  Monroe.  It  can  only 
be  traversed  on  foot,  but  the  path  is  plain  and  safe,  except  in  case  of  a 
fog^  when  great  caution  should  be  exercised,  as  several  fatal  accidents 
have  occurred. 

The  Fabyan  and  Twin  Mountain  Houses. 

The  Fabyan  House  is  an  old  and  popular  hotel  in  the  mount- 
ains, with  all  the  appointments  and  conveniences  of  a  first-class  city 
hotel.  It  stands  on  the  Giant's  Grave,  a  lofty,  grave-shaped  mound, 
and  commands  a  noble  view  of  the  whole  White  Mountain  range. 
It  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Maine  Central  and  Concord  &  Montreal 
R.  Rs.,  White  Mt.  division,  and  is  also  the  nearest  of  the  large  hotels 
to  the  lower  terminus  of  the  Mt.  Washington  Railway.  It  is  likewise  a 
convenient  point  for  excursions  to  Mt.  Willard,  the  Notch,  and  the 
Willey  House,  the  intervening  5  miles  being  over  a  good  road  with  fine 
views.  Between  the  railroads  (about  half  a  mile  from  the  Fabyan 
House)  is  the  3Iount  Pleasant  House^  attractively  situated,  and  charg- 
ing moderate  prices.  About  a  mile  beyond  Fabyan' s  is  the  White 
Jloimtain  House,  long  known  as  an  old  and  favorite  hostelry,  pleas- 
antly located  in  the  midst  of  an  open  tract  of  country.  In  the  rear 
is  a  fine  view  of  the  Presidential  peaks,  and  in  front,  beyond  the  Am- 
monoosuc,  rises  the  lofty  range  which  connects  the  Great  Notch  with 
Franconia.  There  are  pleasant  rambles  in  the  neighborhood,  and  varied 
views  from  the  adjacent  hills.  The  once  famous  Lotoer  Ammonoosiic 
Falls  have  been  spoiled,  by  the  erection  of  a  saw-mill  above.  The 
*  Upper  Ammo7ioosuc  Falls  (3j  miles  from  the  Fabyan  House  on  the 
road  to  Mt.  Washington)  are  very  fine.  The  Twin  Mountain 
House  is  a  large  and  highly  popular  hotel,  5  miles  W.  of  Fabyan's, 
pleasantly  situated  on  heights  above  the  Ammonoosuc  River.  The 
Concord  &  Montreal  R.  R.  has  a  station  here,  and  it  is  a  convenient 
point  from  which  to  visit  the  various  places  of  interest. 

Bethlehem  (the  Bellevue,  Highland  House,  Prospect  House,  Sin- 
clair House,  and"  Strawberry  Hill  House)  is  a  popular  summer  resort  on 
the  Profile  &  Franconia  Notch  R.  R.,  readily  reached  from  Bethlehem 
Junction,  on  the  Concord  &  Montreal  R.  R.,  or  from  Zealand  Junction, 
on  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  It  is  the  highest  village  E.  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  is  the  meeting-place  of  the  American  Hay-Fever  Asso- 
ciation. The  Maplew^ood  House  (1  mile  from  Bethlehem)  is  reached 
by  Narrow  Gauge  R.  R.  from  Bethlehem  Junction  or  Zealand  Junction, 
the  station  being  Maplewood  Station.  The  house  accommodates  500 
guests,  and  offers  fine  views.  Several  excursions  may  be  made  from 
Bethlehem,  the  best  being  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Agassiz  (If  mile  dis- 
tant). The  Profile  &  Franconia  Notch  R.  R.  runs  from  Zealand  Junc- 
tion, on  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.,  to  the  Profile  House  (see  page  130). 


Roilte  21.1  THE   WHITE    MOUNTAINS.  129 

Mount   Washington. 

The  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington  by  the  Carriage-Road  from  the  Glen  House  is 
described  on  p.  123.    The  ascent  by  the  Crawford  House  Bridie-Path  on  p.  126. 

The  Mt.  Washington  Railway  connects  with  the  Concord  &  Mont- 
real E.  R.,  near  Marshfield  (Ammonoosuc  Station).  The  distance  from 
Marshfield  to  the  summit  is  about  3  miles.  The  fare  for  the  ascent  or 
descent  is  $3  ;  round  trip,  $6  ;  trunks  are  not  charged  extra.  The  Mt. 
Washington  Railway  was  begun  in  1866,  and  opened  in  1869,  and  was 
the  model  for  that  up  the  Rigi.  The  grade  is  enormous,  being  3,596 
ft.  in  3  miles,  and  in  places  1  foot  in  3.  The  track  is  of  three  rails 
bolted  to  a  trestle-work  of  heavy  timber.  The  third  or  center  rail  is 
like  a  wrought-iron  ladder  with  rounds  4  inches  apart.  Into  this  fits 
a  cog-wheel  which  fairly  pulls  the  train  up  the  mountain.  The  seats 
for  the  passengers  are  so  swung  as  to  be  horizontal,  whatever  may  be 
the  inclination  of  the  track.  The  safety  of  the  train  is  secured  by  in- 
dependent, self-acting  brakes.  The  time  occupied  by  the  ascent  is  1-i- 
hour,  but  the  slow  progress  is  forgotten  in  the  splendid  panorama  of  the 
gradually  widening  views. 

The  summit  (6,293  ft.  high)  is  an  acre  of  comparatively  level 
ground,  on  which  stand  the  Mount  Washington  Summit  Hotel  ($l,.oO 
for  each  meal,  and  the  same  for  a  night's  lodging),  the  old  Tip-Top 
House  (which  is  no  longer  in  use),  the  engine-house  of  the  railway, 
and  the  U.  S.  Signal-Service  observatory.  At  this  station,  formerly 
occupied  in  winter,  observers  have  recorded  a  temperature  of  59°  be- 
low zero,  while  the  wind  blew  with  a  velocity  of  190  miles  an  hour. 
Visitors  to  Mount  Washington  should  always  go  well  clad.  The  range 
of  the  thermometer,  even  in  midsummer,  is  from  30°  to  50°.  It  fre- 
quently falls  as  low  as  25°,  and  sometimes  to  20°,  or  12°  below  freezing. 
The  tourist  should  spend  one  night  on  the  summit,  in  order  to  see  the 
wonderful  sunrise  and  sunset  views.  The  enjoyableness  of  the  trip  is 
greatly  increased  by  going  up  the  mountain  one  way  and  down  the  other 
(up  by  railway  and  down  by  stage,  or  vice  versa). 

The  view  from  Mt.  Washington  is  incomparably  grand.  In  the 
W.,  through  the  blue  haze,  ai^e  seen  in  the  distance  the  ranges  of  the 
Green  Mountains;  the  remarkable  outlines  of  the  summits  of  Camel's 
Hump  and  Mount  Mansfield  being  easily  distinguished  when  the  atmos- 
phere is  clear.  To  the  N.  W.,  under  your  feet,  are  the  clearings  and 
settlement  of  Jefferson,  and  the  waters  of  Cherry  Pond ;  and,  farther 
distant,  the  village  of  Lancaster,  with  the  waters  of  Israel's  River. 
The  Connecticut  is  barely  visible ;  and  often  its  appearance  for  miles 
is  counterfeited  by  the  fog  arising  from  its  surface.  To  the  N.  and 
N.  E.,  only  a  few  miles  distant,  rise  boldly  the  great  northeastern 
peaks  of  the  White  Mountain  range — Jefferson,  Adams,  and  Madison 
— with  their  ragged  tops  of  loose,  dark  rocks.  A  little  farther  to  the  E. 
are  seen  the  numerous  and  distant  summits  of  the  mountains  of  Maine. 
On  the  S.  E,,  close  at  hand,  are  the  dai^k  and  crowded  ridges  of  the 
mountains  of  Jackson ;  and  beyond,  the  conical  summit  of  Kearsarge, 
standing  by  itself  on  the  outskirts  of  the  mountains ;  and,  farther  over, 


130  THE   WHITE  MOUNTAINS.  [Route  21. 

the  low  country  of  Maine  and  Sebago  Lake,  near  Portland.  Still  far- 
ther, the  ocean  is  distinctly  visible  from  sunrise  to  about  10  o'clock, 
weather  permitting.  Farther  to  the  S.  are  the  intervales  of  the  Saco, 
and  the  settlements  of  Bartlett  and  Conway,  the  sister  ponds  of  Love- 
well,  in  Fryeburg ;  and,  still  farther,  the  remarkable  three-toothed  sum- 
mit of  Chocurua,  the  peak  to  the  right  being  much  the  largest,  and 
sharply  pyi'amidal.  Almost  exactly  S.  are  the  shining  waters  of  the 
beautiful  Winnepesaukee,  seen  with  the  greatest  distinctness  on  a  favor- 
able day.  To  the  S.  W.,  near  at  hand,  are  the  peaks  of  the  southwest- 
ern range  of  the  White  Mountains :  Monroe,  with  its  tAvo  little  Alpine 
ponds  sleeping  under  its  rocky  and  pointed  summits ;  the  flat  surface  of 
Franklin,  and  the  rounded  top  of  Pleasant,  with  their  ridges  and  spurs. 
Beyond  these,  the  Willey  Mountain,  with  its  high,  ridged  summit ;  and, 
beyond  that,  several  parallel  ranges  of  high,  wooded  mountains.  Far- 
ther W.,  and  over  all,  is  seen  the  lofty,  bare  summit  of  Mt.  Lafayette, 
in  Franconia.  There  used  to  be  an  observatory  on  the  summit,  and 
there  is  a  magnificent  view  in  all  directions.  There  are  also  special 
points  whence  fine  outlooks  are  obtained. 

The   Franconia   Mountains. 

These  mountains,  though  in  popular  estimation  inferior  in  interest  to 
the  eastern  cluster,  are  really  not  so,  except  it  be  in  the  wonders  of  the 
mountain  ascents ;  and  even  in  this  the  panorama  from  the  summit  of 
Lafayette  is  scarcely  less  extensive  or  less  imposing  than  the  scene  from 
the  crown  of  Mount  Washington,  while  the  exquisite  little  lakes,  and  the 
singular  natural  eccentricities  in  the  Franconia  group,  have  no  countei'- 
part  in  the  other.  They  lie  W.  S.  W.  of  the  White  Mountains,  from 
which  they  are  separated  by  the  Field,  Willey,  and  Twin  Mountain  ranges, 
and  consist  of  sharp  and  lofty  peaks,  covered  almost  to  their  summits 
with  dense  forests.  The  name  is  usually  applied  to  all  the  mountains 
around  the  Notch,  but  belongs,  more  properly,  to  the  majestic  range  on 
the  E.  side.  The  Franconia  JVotch  is  a  fine  pass  between  the  Fran- 
conia and  Pemigewasset  ranges,  5  miles  long  and  ^  mile  wide,  walled  in 
by  precipitous  cliffs,  filled  with  forests,  and  traversed  by  the  crystal  waters 
of  the  upper  Pemigewasset  River.  Harriet  Martineau  said  of  it,  "  The 
Franconia  Defile  is  the  noblest  mountain-pass  1  saw  in  the  United  States." 

The  Profile  House  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Franconia  range, 
and  is  the  largest  summer  hotel  in  the  White  Mountain  region.  It  is 
situated  in  a  narrow  glen  between  two  lakes,  near  the  N.  end  of  the 
Franconia  Notch,  1,974  ft.  above  the  sea. 

From  New  York  the  best  route  is  via  Route  30  to  Wells  River,  and  thence  by 
Route  20  b.  Drawing-room  cars  run  without  change.  The  Profile  &  Franconia 
Notch  R.  R.  connects  at  Bethlehem  Jimction  Avith  the  Concord  &  Montreal 
R.  R.,  and  runs  in  about  10  miles  to  the  Profile  House  (six  trains  a  day).  The 
Profile  House  may  also  be  reached  from  Plymouth  via  the  Pemigewasset  Valley 
Branch  of  the  Concord  &  Montreal  R.  R.  to  North  Woodstock,  and  thence  by  a 
stage  ride  of  10  miles  (stage  fare,  %2). 

Of  the  many  objects  of  interest  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Profile 
House,  one  of  the  most  charming  is  *  Echo  Lake,  a  diminutive  but 
very  deep  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water  about  f  mile  N.  of  the  hotel,  en- 


Route  21.]  THE    WHITE   MOUNT AmS.  131 

tirely  inclosed  by  high  mountains.  From  the  centei^  of  this  fairy-water, 
a  voice,  in  ordinary  tone,  will  be  echoed  distinctly  several  times,  and 
the  report  of  a  gun  breaks  upon  the  rocks  like  the  roar  of  artillery. 
The  Indian  superstition  was,  that  these  echoes  were  the  voice  of  the 
Great  Spirit,  speaking  in  gentleness  or  in  anger.  The  best  time  to  visit 
the  lake  is  toward  evening,  when  the  flush  of  sunset  is  on  the  mount- 
ains. Uaffle  Cliff  is  a  magnificently  bold  and  rocky  promontory  al- 
most overhanging  the  hotel  on  the  N.  Directly  opposite  Eagle  Cliff, 
and  forming  the  southern  side  of  the  Notch,  is  Profile  Mountain 
(or  Mt.  Cannon),  2,000  ft.  above  the  road,  and  4,107  ft.  above  the  sea. 
Away  up  on  its  crown  is  a  group  of  mighty  rocks  which,  as  seen  from 
the  hotel,  bears  an  exact  resemblance  to  a  mounted  cannon.  The 
mountain  is  ascended  by  a  difficult  footpath  in  about  2  hours,  and  the 
view  from  the  summit  is  surpassingly  fine,  including  the  surrounding 
peaks,  the  towering  heights  of  Washington  and  his  peers,  the  softly 
swelling  hills  sloping  away  to  the  S.,  and  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Pemi- 
gewasset.  It  is  upon  this  mountain,  also,  that  we  find  the  *  Profile, 
or  "  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain."  This  strange  freak  of  Nature,  so  ad- 
mirably counterfeiting  the  human  face,  is  90  ft.  long  from  the  chin  to 
the  top  of  the  forehead,  and  is  1,200  ft.  above  the  road,  though  far  be- 
low the  summit  of  the  mountain.  It  is  formed  of  three  distinct  masses 
of  rock,  one  forming  the  forehead,  another  the  nose  and  upper  lip,  and 
a  third  the  chin.  The  rocks  are  brought  into  the  proper  relation  to 
form  the  profile  at  one  point  only,  namely,  upon  the  road  through  the 
Notch,  ^  mile  S.  of  the  hotel  (indicated  by  a  sign-board).  The  face  is 
boldly  and  clearly  relieved  against  the  sky,  and,  except  in  a  suspicion 
of  weakness  about  the  mouth,  has  the  air  of  a  stern,  strong  character, 
well  able  to  bear,  as  he  has  done  unflinchingly  for  centuries,  the  scorch- 
ing suns  of  summer  and  the  tempest-blasts  of  winter.  Passing  down 
the  road  a  little  way,  the  Old  Man  is  transformed  into  "  a  toothless  old 
woman  m  a  mob-cap,"  and  soon  after  melts  into  thin  air,  and  is  seen  no 
more.  Hawthorne  has  found  in  this  scene  the  theme  of  one  of  the 
pleasantest  of  his  "  Twice-Told  Tales,"  that  of  "  The  Great  Stone  Face." 
At  the  base  of  the  mountain,  immediately  under  the  ever-watchful  eye 
of  the  Old  Man,  is  the  exquisite  little  Profile  Lake,  sometimes  called 
the  "  Old  Man's  Washbowl,"  where  boats  can  be  procured.  It  is  full  of 
the  finest  trout,  and  near  by  is  the  Trout  House^  where  several  hundred 
of  this  beautiful  fish  are  kept  for  breeding  purposes.  From  the  shore 
of  this  lake  the  best  view  of  Eagle  Cliff  is  had.  There  is  a  carriage-road 
from  the  Profile  House  to  the  summit  of  Bald  Mountain^  If  mile  distant, 
Avhence  a  noble  view  is  obtained  without  undergoing  the  fatigue  conse- 
quent upon  the  ascent  of  the  more  lofty  peaks.  *  Mt.  Lafayette  is 
the  monarch  of  the  Franconia  kingdom,  towering  skyward  to  the  height 
of  5,269  ft.  Its  lofty  pyramidal  peaks  are  the  chief  objects  in  all  views 
for  many  miles  around.  The  summit  is  reached  from  the  Profile  House 
in  3|  miles  by  a  good  bridle-path.  On  the  summit  stand  the  walls  of 
an  old  house,  erected  as  a  shelter  for  visitors.  From  this  point  is  ob- 
tained "  a  view  more  beautiful,  in  some  respects,  though  it  may  be  less 
grand  and  majestic,   than   that  from  Mt.  Washington."      The  Green 


132  THE   WHITE   MOTJNTAms.  [Houte  21. 

Mountains  are  plainly  seen,  as  well  as  the  entire  White  Mountain  range ; 
the  peak  of  Katahdin  cleaves  the  air  to  the  N.  E.,  and  to  the  S.  the 
Pemigewasset  Valley  shows  its  contour  for  a  distance  of  40  miles. 

Walker's  Fcdh^  reached  by  following  for  \  mile  a  rivulet  which 
crosses  the  road  2^  miles  S.  of  the  hotel,  is  one  of  the  most  pictui'esque 
of  the  mountain  cascades,  though  the  volume  of  water  is  not  very  great, 
nor  the  height  of  the  fall  at  all  remarkable.  Half  a  mile  farther  up  the 
stream  is  a  larger  fall.  A  mile  farther  S.  is  The  Basin,  a  granite 
bowl,  60  ft.  in  circumference  and  15  ft.  deep,  filled  with  cold,  pellucid 
water.  It  lies  near  the  road-side,  where  the  Pemigewasset  has  worn 
deep  and  curious  cavities  in  the  solid  rock.  The  water,  as  it  flows  from . 
the  Basin,  falls  into  most  charming  cascades  ;  and  at  the  outlet,  the  lower 
edge  of  the  rocks  has  been  worn  into  a  remarkable  likeness  of  the  hu- 
man leg  and  foot,  called  the  "  Old  Man's  Leg."  Across  the  brook  be- 
low the  basin,  is  thrown  a  bridge  of  logs,  which  enables  the  visitor  to 
reach  a  path  leading  \  mile  to  a  succession  of  the  most  exquisitely 
lovely  Cascades  in  this  whole  i-egion.-  These  cascades  should  be  fol- 
lowed to  tlie  point  where  they  end  in  a  waterfall  ( Tunnel  Falls)  30  ft. 
high.  About  i-|-  mile  beyond  the  Basin  (5  miles  from  the  Profile  House) 
is  the  Flume  House,  beautifully  situated  at  the  head  of  the  valley, 
with  Mt.  Liberty  in  front  and  Mt.  Pemigewasset  behind,  and  good  guides 
can  be  obtained  there.  The  vi'ews  northward  toward  the  Notch,  and 
southward  toward  the  Pemigewasset  Valley,  are  surpassingly  fine.  Op- 
posite the  hotel  a  path  through  the  forest  leads  f  of  a  mile  to  *  The 
Pool,  a  wonderful  excavation  in  the  solid  rock,  smooth  as  though  hewn 
by  human  hands.  It  is  about  150  ft.  wide  and  40  ft.  deep,  the  water 
entering  by  a  cascade,  and  escaping  through  the  rocks  at  its  lower  ex- 
tremity ;  from  the  top  of  the  rocks  above  to  the  surface  of  the  pool  the 
distance  is  nearly  150  ft. 

*  The  Flume,  one  of  the  most  famous  of  all  the  Franconia  won- 
ders, is  f  of  a  mile  from  the  hotel,  and  is  reached  by  a  carriage-road 
leading  to  the  part  of  the  Cascade  below  the  Flume.  The  cascade  is  a 
continuous  succession  of  gentle  rapids,  600  ft.  long,  and  at  its  upper 
end  is  the  entrance  to  the  flume  itself,  which  is  a  rugged  ravine  700 
ft.  long,  with  precipitous,  rocky  walls  60  ft.  high,  and  not  more  than 
20  ft.  apart.  Through  this  grand  fissure  comes  the  little  brook  which 
we  have  just  seen  ;  and  a  plank-Avalk  leads  along  its  bed  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  ravine,  where  the  walls  approach  within  10  ft.  of  each 
other.  At  this  point,  about  half-way  up,  a  huge  granite  bowlder,  several 
tons  in  weight,  used  to  hang  suspended  between  the  chffs,  where  it  had 
been  caught  in  its  descent  from  the  mountain  above.  But  the  storms 
of  the  summer  of  1883  swelled  the  little  brook  into  a  furious  torrent, 
that  dislodged  from  its  resting-place  this  wonder  of  the  Flume,  and  pre- 
cipitated it  into  the  gorge,  a  thousand  feet  below.  The  Georgianna 
Falls  (or  Harvard  Falls,  as  they  are  sometimes  called)  are  of  greater 
magnitude  than  any  yet  discovered  in  these  mountains.  They  plunge 
over  the  precipice  in  two  leaps  of  80  ft.  each,  and  are  reached  by  a  path 
from  a  small  farmhouse  about  a  mile  S.  of  the  Flume  House,  on  the 
Plymouth  road  (guide  at  the  farmhouse). 


Route- 22.]  LAKE   WINNEPESAUKEE.  133 

22.  Lake  Winnepesaukee. 

Lake  Winnepesaukee  is  reached  from  New  York,  Boston,  or  Portland,  by  any 
of  the  routes  described  in  Pontes  19,  20,  or  30,  and  at  the  beginning  of  Route  21 . 
The  best  approach  for  those  who  wish  to  make  the  tour  of  the  lake  on  the  way 
to  the  White  Mts.  is  via  Boston  &  Maine  (main  line)  and  Dover  &  Winnepiseo- 

fee  branch  to  Alton  Bay,  whence  the  steamer  Mt.  Washington  runs  to  Wolf- 
oro.  Weirs,  and  Center  Harbor.    The  Lady  of  the  Lake  runs  from  Wolfboro  to 
Weirs  and  Center  Harbor  twice  a  day. 

Lake  Winnepesaukee,  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
in  New  Hampshire,  lies  in  the  two  counties  of  Belknap  and  Carroll, 
and  is  a  sort  of  portal  to  the  White  Mountain  region  from  the  S.  It 
is  very  irregular  in  form,  its  extreme  length  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W. 
being  about  25  miles,  and  its  width  varying  from  1  to  10  miles. 
Its  waters  are  wonderfully  pure  and  translucent,  numerous  islands  are 
dotted  over  its  surface,  and  lofty  hills  and  mountains  close  it  in  on  all 
sides.  Its  name  is  of  Indian  origin,  and  means  "  The  beautiful  water 
in  a  high  place,"  or,  as  some  maintain,  "  The  Smile  of  the  Great  Spirit." 

Alton  Bay  ( Winnepescmkee  House)  is  the  most  southern  point  of 
the  lake,  and  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  narrow-  estuary,  which  appears 
more  like  a  river  than  a  lake.  There  are  several  points  of  interest  in 
the  vicinity.  From  Sheep  Mountain,  2  miles  N.,  there  is  a  fine  view  of 
the  lake;  also  from  Prospect  Hill  and  Mt.  Major.  Lougee  Pond.,  Y 
miles  S.  W.,  is  noted  for  its  tame  fish  ;  and  Merry -Meeting  Lake.,  Y 
miles  E.,  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water.  The  pleasantest  excursion,  how- 
ever, is  to  the  summit  of  *Mt,  Belknap,  10  miles  distant.  The  fare 
for  a  party  in  a  regular  mountain-wagon  is  $1.50  each,  and  the  excur- 
sion occupies  an  entire  day.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  very  fine. 
The  distance  from  Alton  Bay  to  Wolfboro  is  11  miles,  and  to  Center 
Harbor  30  miles ;  so  that  the  sail  includes  nearly  the  entire  length  of 
the  lake.  Wolfboro  {Bellevue  Hotel,  Hotel  Glendon.,  and  Kings''  Wood 
House)  is  situated  on  two  beautiful  slopes  of  land  rising  from  the  lake. 
It  is  the  most  important  point  on  the  lake,  and  has  3,020  inhabitants. 
A  branch  of  the  Eastern  Div.  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  connects  Wolf- 
boro with  North  Conway;  and  steamers  run  to  Weirs,  Center  Har- 
bor, and  Alton  Bay.  A  highly  popular  excursion  from  Wolfboro  is  to 
Copple  Crown  Mountain,  2,100  ft.  high,  and  6|  miles  distant. 
Carriages  from  the  hotel  run  to  within  a  mile  of  the  summit,  from 
which  point  horses  may  be  obtained,  or  the  ascent  may  be  easily  made 
on  foot.  The  carriage-fare  is  $1.50  for  each  person  of  a  party.  The 
view  from  the  summit  is  very  fine.  The  lake  can  be  seen  for  nearly 
its  entire  length.  To  the  S.  is  a  vast  level  expanse,  dotted  with  lakes 
and  villages  and  patches  of  woodland ;  Belknap  and  Gunstoek,  with  the 
mountains  of  the  Merrimac  Yalley,  stretch  away  toward  the  W.,  with 
the  Ossipee  and  Sandwich  ranges  closing  in  the  head  of  the  lake ;  and 
almost  due  N.  Chocorua  looms  up  in  massive  grandeur,  with  the  distant 
peak  of  Mt.  Washington  above  its  shoulder.  The  ocean  is  visible  to 
the  S.  E.  on  a  clear  day.  A  mile  N.  of  Copple  Crown  (6  miles  from 
Wolfboro)  is  a  smaller  mountain  called  Tumhle-Doivn  Dick.,  which  is 
more  easily  ascended,  and  affords  a  scarcely  inferior  view. 


134  POETLAND   TO   MOUNT   DESERT.  [Route  23. 

The  sail  from  Wolfboro  to  Center  Harbor  affords  a  constant  suc- 
cession of  striking  views.  First  Ossipee  and  Chocorua  attract  the  at- 
tention as  they  loom  up  against  the  northern  horizon ;  and  then,  about 
midway  of  the  lake,  the  dim  but  majestic  peak  of  Mt.  Washington  is 
seen  45  miles  away.  Center  Harbor  (20  miles  from  Wolfboro  and 
10  from  Weirs)  is  a  very  small  village,  but,  being  a  highly  popular  sum- 
mer resort,  has  commodious  hotels  so  located  as  to  command  charming 
views  of  the  lake  and  vicinity  [Moulton  Hotel^  Senter  House).  There  are 
also  smaller  hotels  and  boarding-houses.  Stages  leave  Center  Harbor 
daily  for  Sandwich,  Center  Sandwich,  and  West  Ossipee.  Steamers  run 
to  Weirs,  Wolfboro,  and  Alton  Bay.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
village  are  very  attractive,  but  the  chief  objects  of  interest  are  Red 
Hill  and  Squam  Lake.  *  Red  Hill  is  a  remarkably  beautiful  emi- 
nence, 2,038  ft.  high,  about  6  miles  N.  W.  of  the  lake.  Carriages  run 
to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  where  horses  are  always  in  readiness  to  convey 
passengers  to  the  summit  by  a  bridle-path  1^  mile  long.  In  order  to 
obtain  the  best  views,  the  ascent  should  be  made  in  the  forenoon,  or  in 
the  afternoon  between  3  and  5  o'clock.  At  the  latter  hour  the  view  of 
the  lake  and  its  islands  is  charming.  The  view  as  a  whole  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  New  England,  and  has  been  compared  to  that  from  the 
summit  of  Mt.  Holyoke.  *  Squam  Lake,  lying  W.  from  Red  Hill  and 
2  miles  N.  W.  of  Center  Harbor,  is  another  lovely  sheet  of  water.  It  is 
about  6  miles  long  and  3  miles  wide  at  its  widest  part,  and,  like  Winne- 
pesaukee,  is  studded  with  a  succession  of  romantic  islands.  This  lake 
abounds  in  fish,  and  is  noted  for  the  limpid  purity  of  its  water.  The 
drive  around  Squam  Lake  from  Center  Harbor  (21  miles)  affords  a  de- 
lightful day's  excursion. 

From  Center  Harbor  a  steamer  runs  several  times  daily  to  Weirs 
(10  miles),  the  principal  point  on  the  W.  side  of  the  lake.  This  short 
sail  is  delightful,  and  from  a  point  about  3  miles  below  Center  Harbor 
is  obtained  the  finest  view  on  the  lake.  Weirs  is  simply  a  station  on 
the  Concord  &  Montreal  R.  R.,  where  the  trains  connect  with  the 
steamboats.  Near  Weirs  is  Endicott  Rock.,  supposed  to  have  been  set 
up  as  a  monument  or  boundary  by  the  surveyor's  sent  out  in  1652  by 
Governor  Endicott  of  Massachusetts. 

23.  Portland  to  Mt.  Desert. 

a.  All-Rail  Route  via  Maine  Central. 

The  all-rail  route  to  Mt.  Desert  is  via  Maine  Central  (main  line)  to  Bangor, 
thence  by  Mt.  Desert  Branch  to  Mt.  Desert  FeiTy  station  ;  distance,  179  miles  ; 
fare,  $5.00  limited,  or  $8.50  round-trip. 

The  towns  from  Portland  to  Bangor  are  described  in  Route  24. 
From  the  latter-named  city  the  Mt.  Desert  Branch  crosses  the  Penob- 
scot River  into  the  town  of  Brevier.  Thence  it  runs  through  the  small 
towns  of  Holden  and  Dedham  to  Ellsworth,  a  place  of  4,804  inhab- 
itants, the  county-seat  of  Hancock  County,  and  a  port  of  entry.  The 
place  contains  a  court-house,  custom-house,  several  banks,  six  churches, 
and  three  newspaper  offices.    It  is  an  important  center  of  lumbering  and 


Route  23.]        POETLAi^nD  to  mount  desert.  136 

ship-building.  Thence  passing  through  the  village  of  Hancock,  the  road 
reaches  its  terminus  at  Mt.  Desert  Ferry,  where  steamboats  connect  with 
Bar  Harbor,  Mount  Desert,  a  distance  of  8  miles  over  smooth  water. 

h.    Via  Maine  Central  R,  R.,  and  Steamer  from  Rockland.     Rare,  $Jf,. 

The  distance  from  Portland  to  Rockland  by  the  Maine  Central  K.  R. 
is  89  miles.  On  the  line,  29  miles  from  Portland,  is  Brunswick,  a 
thriving  town  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on  the  Androscoggin  River, 
noted  as  the  seat  of  Bovxloin  College  (incorporated  in  1*794).  The  col- 
lege buildings,  situated  amid  a  beautiful  grove  of  pine-trees  near  the 
station,  are  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  the  gallery  of  paintings  is  famous. 
A  few  miles  beyond  Brunswick  is  Bath,  a  busy  little  city  of  8,'723 
inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Kennebec  River,  12  miles  from  the  sea. 
Ship-building  is  the  leading  industry,  and  one  of  the  fine  steel  cruisers 
forxning  part  of  the  "  new  navy  "  was  built  here.  There  are  several 
fine  churches  and  other  buildings.  At  Bath  the  cars  are  carried  by 
ferry  across  the  Kennebec  River,  and  passing  on  to  the  rails  of  the 
Knox  &  Lincoln  Branch  of  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  reach  Rockland  in 
49  miles,  passing  en  route  the  small  towns  of  Wiscasset  (on  the  Sheep- 
scot  River),  Newcastle,  Damariscotta,  Warren,  and  TJiomaston.  The 
latter  contains  the  Maine  State  Prison.  Rockland  is  a  city  of  8,1Y4 
inhabitants,  situated  on  Owl's-Head  Bay,  an  inlet  of  Penobscot  Bay. 
The  town  is  well  built,  and  the  adjacent  scenery  is  remarkably  pictur- 
esque. Rockland  contains  8  churches,  a  public  library,  and  a  custom- 
house that  cost  $1*75,000.  The  chief  articles  of  export  are  lime  and 
granite.  Ship-building,  also,  is  a  leading  industry.  Near  by  is  the  Bay 
Point  Hotel,  on  the  Rockland  Breakwater.  At  Rockland,  passengers 
for  Mt.  Desert  take  the  steamer,  which  pursues  a  devious  course  across 
Penobscot  Bay  and  through  intricate  channels  to  the  island,  stopping 
by  the  way  at  Castine,  a  pretty  and  wealthy  village,  situated  on  a 
narrow  peninsula  projecting  into  the  bay,  and  much  resorted  to  in  sum- 
mer for  its  coolness,  seclusion,  and  boating  and  fishing  facilities.  This 
line  has  the  advantage  for  those  who  like  only  a  few  hours'  travel  on 
the  boat. 

c.    Via  Steamer  from  Portland.     Fare,  $Jf,. 

A  popular  way  of  reaching  Mt.  Desert  is  by  steamers  twice  a  week 
(Tuesday  and  Friday)  from  Portland,  landing  at  Bar  Harbor.  The 
steamer  leaves  Portland  on  the  arrival  of  the  train,  leaving  Boston  at  7 
p.  M.     (Fare  from  Boston,  $5.50.) 

Mount  Desert. 

Mount  Desert  lies  in  Frenchman's  Bay,  just  off  the  coast  of  Maine, 
about  110  miles  E.  of  Portland,  and  40  miles  S.  E.  of  Bangor.  The 
island  is  14  miles  long  and  8  miles  wide  at  the  widest  part,  and  has 
an  area  of  100  square  miles.  At  its  noi'thern  end  it  approaches  so 
nearly  to  the  mainland  that  a  bridge  affords  permanent  connection  be- 
tween the  two ;  and  nearly  midway  it  is  pierced  by  an  inlet  known  as 
Somes's  Sound,  which  is  H  miles  long.     "  The  island,"  says  Robert  Car- 


136  PORTLAlsTD   TO    MOUNT    DESERT.  [Foute  23. 

ter,  in  his  "  Summer  Cruise,"  "  is  a  mass  of  mountains  crowded  together, 
and  seemingly  rising  from  the  water.  As  you  draw  near,  they  resolve 
themselves  into  13  distinct  peaks,  the  highest  of  which  is  about  2,000 
ft.  above  the  ocean.  Certainly  only  in  the  tropics  can  the  scene  be 
excelled — only  in  the  gorgeous  islands  of  the  Indian  and  Pacific  Oceans. 
On  the  coast  of  America  it  has  no  rival,  except,  perhaps,  at  the  Bay  of 
Rio  Janeiro."  The  mountains  are  mainly  upon  the  southern  half  of 
the  island,  and  lie  in  7  ridges,  running  nearly  X.  and  S.  The  highest 
peak  is  Green  Mountain  ;  and  the  next,  which  is  separated  from  Green 
Mountain  by  a  deep,  narrow  gorge,  is  called  Newport.  The  western 
sides  of  the  range  slope  gradually  upward  to  the  summits,  but  on  the 
east  they  confront  the  ocean  with  a  series  of  stupendous  cliffs.  High 
up  among  the  mountains  are  many  beautiful  lakes,  the  largest  of  which 
is  several  miles  in  length.  These  lakes,  and  the  streams  that  flow  into 
them,  abound  in  trout.  There  are  several  harbors  on  the  islands,  the 
best  known  of  which  are  Southwest,  Noi-theast,  and  Bar  Harbor. 

Bar  Harbor  {Belmont.^  Grand  Central.^  Hotel  des  Isles.,  Louishirg., 
Lynam,  Malvern,  JRodicJc,  St.  Sauvetir,  West  Mid  Hotel)  is  on  the  E.  shore 
of  the  island,  opposite  the  Porcupine  Islands,  and  derives  its  name  from 
a  sandy  bar  which  connects  Mt.  Desert  with  the  largest  of  the  Porcupine 
group.  The  village  is  known  locally  as  "East  Eden,"  and  is  the  favorite 
stopping-place  for  travelers.  The  scenery  in  the  neighborhood  is  pleas- 
ing, and  many  excursion-points  are  near.  The  first  excursion  should  be 
to  the  summit  of  *  Green  Mountain,  and  by  the  Green  Mountain 
R.  R.  the  expedition  is  made  very  comfortably.  There  is  a  fine  hotel 
on  the  mountain-top,  and  a  good  road  leads  from  the  village  (in  4  miles) 
to  the  hotel,  and  enables  vehicles  to  ascend  the  entire  distance.  Pleas- 
ure-parties frequently  prefer  to  ascend  on  foot,  and  it  is  customary  to 
i-emain  overnight  at  the  hotel  in  order  to  view  the  sunrise  from  this  alti- 
tude (1,52'7  ft.).  The  view  from  the  summit  is  very  fine,  embracing  the 
Avhole  of  Mt.  Desert,  Frenchman's  Bay  with  its  many  islands,  the  bound- 
less ocean  on  the  one  hand,  and  a  vast  stretch  of  the  Maine  coast  on 
the  other.  Eagle  Lake,  so  named  by  Church,  the  artist,  is  visible  at 
intervals  during  the  entire  ascent  of  the  mountain ;  and,  half-way  up,  a 
short  detour  from  the  road  will  bring  the  tourist  to  its  pebbly  shore. 
Mt.  Newport  is  ascended  from  the  Schooner  Head  road,  and  Kebo., 
which  may  be  reached  in  half  an  hour  from  the  hotels  at  Bar  Harbor, 
affords  a  pleasing  prospect.  The  several  points  along  the  coast  to  which 
the  visitor's  attention  is  directed  are  The  Ovens,  which  lie  6  or  7  miles 
up  the  bay,  and  Schooner  Head,  Great  Head,  and  Otter  Creek  Cliffs,  ly- 
ing on  the  seaward  shore  of  the  island.  The  Ovens  may  be  reached  by 
boat  or  by  a  pleasant  drive  of  '7  miles  through  the  woods.  They  are  a 
series  of  cavities  worn  in  the  cliffs  by  the  action  of  the  tides,  some  of 
which  are  large  enough  to  contain  30  or  40  people  at  a  time.  They  can 
only  be  visited  at  low  tide,  and  are  then  a  favorite  picnic-ground  for 
summer  residents  in  Bar  Harbor.  The  Via  Mala  is  a  curious  archway 
in  one  of  the  projecting  cliffs.  *  Schooner  Head,  so  named  from 
the  fancy  that  a  mass  of  white  rock  on  its  sea-face  has  the  appearance 
of  a  small  schooner,  is  on  the  seaward  side  of  the  island,  4  miles  S,  of 


Route  23.']  PORTLAND    TO    MOUNT   DESEKT.  137 

Bar  Harbor.  The  Spouting  Horn  is  a  wide  chasm  in  the  cliff,  which 
extends  down  to  the  water  and  opens  to  the  sea  through  a  small  arch- 
way below  high-water  mark.  At  high  tide,  and  especially  in  stormy 
weather,  the  waves  rush  through  this  archway  and  send  a  spout  of 
water  far  above  the  summit  of  the  cliff.  "^  Great  Head,  2  miles  S.  of 
Schooner  Head,  is  the  highest  headland  between  Cape  Cod  and  New 
Brunswick.  It  is  a  bold,  projecting  mass,  whose  base  has  been  deeply 
gashed  by  the  waves.  Still  farther  S.  are  the  Otter  Creek  Cliffs, 
situated  near  a  small  stream  known  as  Otter  Creek.  The  most  interest- 
ing feature  of  these  cliffs  is  Thunder  Cave  (reached  from  the  road  by  a 
superb  forest-walk).  The  cave  is  a  long,  low  gallery  in  the  cliff-side, 
into  which  the  waves  rush  with  impetuous  force,  and,  dashing  them- 
selves against  the  hollow  cavity  within,  produce  a  sound  closely  resem- 
bling thunder.  In  fair  weather  the  sound  is  apparent  only  when  near, 
but  in  great  storms  it  may  be  heard  distinctly  at  the  distance  of  7  miles. 
About  9  miles  S.  W.  of  Bar  Harbor  is  *  Jordan's  Pond,  a  beautiful 
lake  2  miles  long  and  4  mile  wide,  surrounded  by  picturesque  mountain 
scenery  and  abounding  in  fish.  CromweWs  Cove  is  1-^  mile  S.  of  the  vil- 
lage. The  Pulpit,  the  Indian's  Foot,  and  the  Assyrian  (a  rock  figure  in 
one  of  the  cliff-sides)  are  in  this  vicinity. 

Somes's  Sound,  which  divides  the  lower  portion  of  the  island  into 
two  distinct  sections,  possesses  many  attractions  for  those  who  admire 
bold  headlands.  It  is  usual  to  ascend  the  Sound  in  boats  from  South- 
west Harbor;  but  explorers  sometimes  drive  to  Somes ville,  a  neat 
little  village  at  the  head  of  the  Sound  (8  miles  from  Bar  Harbor,  and  6 
miles  from  Southwest  Harbor),  and  there  take  boats  for  a  sail  down 
stream.  The  Sound  cuts  through  the  center  of  the  mountain-range  at 
right  angles  between  Dog  Mountain  and  Mt.  Mansfield,  and  has  striking 
views  on  either  hand.  JEagle  Cliff  is  one  of  the  cliffs  of  Dog  Mountain, 
and  rises  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  nearly  1,000  ft.  Fernalds' 
Pointy  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Sound,  is  the  site  of  the  ancient  Jesuit 
settlement  of  St.  Sauveur,  and  near  by  is  Father  Biard's  Spring.  The 
Sound  affords  excellent  fishing  and  boating,  though  it  is  necessary  to 
guard  against  the  sudden  gusts  which  at  times  rush  down  from  the 
mountains. 

Southwest  Harbor  {Clareraord House ^  Freeman  House^  and  Island 
House)  is  less  picturesque  in  its  surroundings  than  the  eastern  and  north- 
ern shores  of  the  island,  but  there  are  several  points  of  interest  in  the 
vicinity.  Chief  of  these  is  the  Sea-Wall  (3  miles  S.  W.),  a  cheval-de- 
frise  of  shattered  rock  skirting  the  shore  for  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and 
against  which  the  sea  beats  with  tireless  impetuosity.  Beach  Mountain 
(affording  a  noble  view).  Dog  Mountain,  Flying  Mountain,  Mt.  Mansell, 
and  Sargent's  Mountain  may  all  be  ascended  from  Southwest  Harbor. 
Long  Lake  is  2-|  miles  X.  W. ;  Denning'^ s  LaJce^  about  3  miles  X. ;  and 
Seal  Cove^  5  miles  W.  These  are  all  in  the  neighborhood  of  fine  seen  • 
ery,  and  the  lakes  abound  in  fish. 


138  POETLAND   TO    MOOSEHEAD   LAKE.       {Eoute  2J^. 


24.  Portland  to  Moosehead  Lake. 

The  regular  route  via  Newport,  Dexter,  and  Greenville  is  described  below. 
Bound-  trip  tickets  from  Boston,  $15. 

The  distance  from  Portland  to  Bangor  via  Maine  Central  R.  R. 
is  136  miles;  to  Augusta,  62  miles.  The  first  important  station  after 
leaving  Portland  is  Brziiisicick,  29  miles  (see  Route  23  b).  Beyond 
Brunswick  the  train  crosses  the  Androscoggin  and  passes  in  2Y  miles  to 
Gardiner  [JEvans  House,  Young'' s  Hotel),  a  leading  center  of  the  lum- 
ber industry,  with  a  population  of  some  5,491,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Cobbosseecontee  River.  It  has  abundant  water-power,  and  paper,  flour- 
ing, saw,  and  planing  mills.  Four  miles  beyond  Gardiner,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Kennebec,  is  Hallowell  (Hallomell  House),  a  town  of  3,181  in- 
habitants, with  extensive  quarries  in  the  neighborhood,  from  which  large 
quantities  of  granite  are  exported  by  river  and  rail.  It  contains  also  a 
cotton-factory,  an  oil-cloth  factory,  three  national  banks,  and  a  public 
library.  Two  miles  above,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Ken- 
nebec, is  Augusta  [Augusta  House,  Cony  House),  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Maine.  It  is  a  beautifully  situated  and  well-built  city  of  10,527 
inhabitants,  owing  much  of  its  loveliness  to  a  great  abundance  of  shade- 
trees  and  shrubbery.  Among  the  noteworthy  buildings  are  the  *  State- 
House,  built  of  white  granite,  and  one  of  the  finest  public  edifices  in  New 
England  ;  the  Gourt-House  of  Kennebec  County  ;  the  State  Insane  Asy- 
lum, a  handsome  granite  structure  on  the  heights  E.  of  the  river  ;  and 
the  Kennebec  Arsenal,  with  well-arranged  grounds  and  neat  buildings. 
This  place  is  noted  as  the  home  of  James  G.  Blaine.  The  great  dam 
across  the  Kennebec,  ^  mile  above  the  city,  is  584  ft.  long,  and  fur- 
nishes immense  water-power. — Beyond  Augusta  several  small  stations 
are  passed,  and  then  come  Waterville  (81  miles  from  Portland),  a 
beautiful  town  of  7,107  inhabitants  near  the  Ticonic  Falls  of  the  Ken- 
nebec, seat  of  Colby  University  (Baptist) ;  BurnJiani,  whence  the  Belfast 
Div.  runs  in  33  miles  to  Belfast,  a  prosperous  maritime  city  of  5,294 
inhabitants,  on  Penobscot  Bay ;  and  Neioport  (108  miles),  whence  the 
Dexter  Branch  runs  30  miles  N.  to  Dexter,  Dover,  and  Foxcraft,  the  junc- 
tion point  with  the  Bangor  &  Aroostook  R.  R.  running  to  Greenville  (47 
miles),  the  only  stations  en  route  requiring  mention  being  South  Sebec, 
whence  stages  run  in  6  miles  to  Sebec  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
12  miles  long  and  abounding  in  fish  ;  and  Milo,  where  a  branch  railroad 
runs  to  Katahdin  Iron-Works  (19  miles).  At  the  latter-named  point 
there  are  good  river  and  lake  fishing,  an  excellent  hotel,  and  mineral 
springs.  Ttie  railroad  passes  through  a  thinly-settled  and  picturesque 
country  and  affords  many  fine  mountain- views.  Bangor  {Bangor  House^ 
Bangor  Exchange,  Penobscot  Exchange,  and  Wi7idsor  Hotel),  the  third 
city  of  Maine,  and  one  of  the  great  lumber-marts  of  the  world,  is  situ- 
ated at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Penobscot  River,  60  miles  from 
the  ocean,  and  contains  19,103  inhabitants.  It  is  solidly  and  hand- 
somely built,  and  very  wealthy  for  its  size.  Besides  the  lumber  in- 
dustry, for  which  all  the  vast  forest  country  above  is  laid  under  contri- 


Route  2Jf.]      POETLAND   TO   MOOSEHEAD   LAKE.  139 

bution,  ship-building  is  carried  on,  as  also  a  large  business  in  roofing- 
slates,  ice,  hay,  potatoes,  moccasins,  steam  boilers  and  machinery,  etc. 
The  granite  Citstom-House  and  Post- Office  is  a  handsome  structure. 
The  opera-house  is  one  of  the  finest  in  New  England.  The  Bangor 
Theological  Seminary^  situated  in  the  higher  part  of  the  city,  and  sev- 
eral of  the  churches,  are  noteworthy  edifices.  Novomhega  Hall.,  with 
seats  for  2,000  persons,  is  on  the  Kenduskeag  Bridge ;  the  lower  story 
is  used  as  a  market.  A  dam  thrown  across  the  Penobscot  Eiver  fur- 
nishes water  and  power  in  abundant  supply  for  the  city.  From  Bangor 
the  route  continues  via  Maine  Central  K.  R.  to  Mattawamkeag  and 
Vanceboro,  connecting  at  Mattawamkeag  with  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Short  Line,  running  westAvard  past  Lake  Megantic,  famous  for  its  sports 
with  rod  and  gun,  continuing  on  to  Montreal. 

Steamers  run  daily  in  summer  between  Bangor  and  Boston.  There 
is  also  railway  and  steamboat  connection  with  Bar  Harbor  and  inter- 
mediate points. 

Moosehead  Lake. 

Moosehead  Lake,  the  largest  in  Maine,  lies  among  the  northern  hills 
on  the  yerge  of  the  great  Maine  forest,  and  may  be  reached  from  Mont- 
real by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Ry.  It  is  38  miles  long,  and  at  one 
point  is  14  miles  wide,  though  near  the  center  there  is  a  pass  which  is 
not  more  than  a  mile  across.  It  is  1,023  ft.  above  the  sea,  into  which 
it  empties  by  way  of  the  Kennebec  River.  Its  waters  are  deep,  and 
furnish  ample  occupation  to  the  angler  in  their  stores  of  trout  and  other 
fish.  The  best  time  for  visiting  Moosehead  Lake,  or  any  portion  of  the 
Maine  woods,  is  from  the  15th  of  May  to  the  loth  of  June  (before  "fly- 
time"),  and  from  August  10th  to  October  10th  (after  "fly-time"). 

Greenville  is  a  small  hamlet  on  the  S.  shore,  with  several  small 
but  good  hotels,  and  the  only  permanent  settlement  on  the  lake.  Small 
steamers  leave  Greenville  daily  for  Mt.  Kineo  and  the  other  end  of  the 
lake,  the  passage  to  which  affords  a  panoramic  succession  of  fine  scenery. 
On  the  W.  side  Mt.  Kineo  (1,958  ft.)  overhangs  the  water  with  a  pre- 
cipitous front  over  800  ft.  high.  On  a  long  peninsula,  jutting  out  from 
its  base  into  the  lake,  the  popular  Mt.  Kineo  Honse.,  a  large  and  fine  hotel, 
is  situated,  and  close  by  are  the  best  fishing-grounds  on  the  lake.  The 
mountain  is  easily  ascended  (with  a  guide)  from  the  hotel,  and  its  sum- 
mit reveals  a  picture  of  forest  beauty  well  worth  the  climbing  to  see. 
The  lake  is  visible  from  end  to  end,  and  to  the  noilheast  Katahdin  stands 
out  in  massive  grandeur  against  the  horizon.  About  18  miles  N.  of  Mt. 
Kineo  the  landing  place  at  the  end  of  the  lake  is  reached,  whence 
a  portage,  2  miles  long,  leads  across  to  the  Penobscot  River.  This 
riyer  may  be  descended  in  canoes  in  'Z  to  10  days  to  Oldtown,  and  for 
those  who  enjoy  roughing  it  the  journey  will  prove  a  genuine  "  expe- 
rience." "Birches,"  as  the  boats  are  called,  and  guides  may  be  pro- 
cured either  at  Greenville  or  at  the  Mt.  Kineo  House.  By  this  approach 
Mt.  Katahdin  (5,385  ft.  high)  is  seen  in  much  finer  outline  than  from 
the  E.,  and  may  be  ascended  from  the  river  with  the  canoe-guides. 


140  PORTLAND    TO    THE   RANGELEY    LAKES.    [Route  2b. 

25.  Portland  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes. 

The  route  is  via  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  to  Farmington,  thence 
by  Sandy  River  R.  R.  to  Phillips  (1 8  miles),  and  thence  by  the  Phillips 
&  Rangeley  R.  R.  to  Rangeley  (29  miles).  As  far  as  Brunswick  the 
route  is  the  same  as  Route  23  h.  Beyond  Brunswick,  a  number  of  small 
villages  are  passed,  lying  amid  a  rich  farming  and  grazing  region.  At 
lAvermore  Falls  the  Androscoggin  River  is  reached.  From  Wilton 
stages  run  daily  to  Weld^  a  small  village  on  the  shore  of  a  mountain-sur- 
rounded lake.  Farmington  is  a  frontier  town  of  3,20'7  inhabitants. 
(Another  route  from  Portland  to  Farmington  is  via  Lewiston,  and  is  10 
miles  shorter  than  the  preceding.) 

The  Sandy  River  R.  R.  (2  ft.  gauge)  connects  with  Maine  Central 
and  traverses  betw^een  Farmington  and  Phillips  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful sections  of  the  State,  passing  as  it  does  the  entire  distance  along  the 
banks  of  the  Sandy  River  through  what  is  called  the  "  Garden  of  Maine," 
on  account  of  its  splendid  farms.  Phillips  [Ba.rden  House)  is  about 
half-way,  and  is  an  attractive  resort,  being  near  some  trout-sti-eams,  and 
with  Mt.  Bliie^  5  miles,  and  Saddleback  Moimtain,  8  miles  distant,  both  of 
which  command  fine  views.  The  latter  is  4,000  ft.  high,  and  from  its  sum- 
mit may  be  seen  the  w-hole  Rangeley  region,  the  White  Mountains,  the  val- 
ley of  the  Upper  Kennebec,  and  portions  of  Canada.  Phillips  is  now  con- 
nected with  Rangeley  by  means  of  the  narrow  gauge  Phillips  &  Range- 
ley  R.  R.,  which  runs  through  a  beautiful  country,  commanding  mag- 
nificent views  of  mountain  scenery. 

The  Rangeley  Lakes. 

This  remote  and  romantic  series  of  lakes  lies  in  the  N.  W.  corner  of 
Maine,  within  the  borders  of  its  great  forest-region,  and  in  what  is  per- 
haps the  most  picturesque  portion  of  the  State.  It  consists  of  several 
distinct  lakes  connected  by  narrows  and  streams,  extending  from  the 
Oquossoc  or  Rangeley  Lake  (1,511  ft.  above  the  sea)  to  Lake  Umbagog 
(1,256  ft.  above  the  sea),  forming  one  continuous  water-way  for  a  dis- 
tance of  nearly  50  miles ;  embracing  80  square  miles  of  water-surface, 
and  abounding  in  blue-back  trout  and  other  game-fish.  Each  lake  has 
its  individual  name,  but  the  chain  is  known  collectively  as  "  The 
Rangeley  Lakes  "  ;  and  there  is  probably  no  equally  accessible  portion 
of  the  country  which  offers  such  attractions  to  sportsmen,  and  especially 
to  trout-fishers.  It  is  claimed  that  there  are  two  distinct  species  of 
trout  in  these  waters,  one  of  which  is  found  nowhei^e  else,  and  produces 
specimens  weighing  as  much  as  10  pounds,  while  the  smaller  kind  is 
caught  with  an  ease  and  in  quantities  which  can  be  equaled  in  no  other 
known  locality. 

At  the  head  of  Rangeley  Lake,  3*7  miles  from  Farmington,  is  Range- 
ley  {Rangeley  Lake  Hotel\  which  draws  many  summer  visitors.  From 
this  point  connection  is  made  twice  daily  by  two  little  steamers,  with 
the  Mountain  -  Vievj  House,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  wath  the  Outlet, 
whence  a  short  and  easy  "  carry  "  leads  to  Indian  Rock,  the  headquar. 


^oiite  26.]   PORTLAT^D   TO   MONTEEAL   AND    QUEBEC.        141 

ters  of  the  Oquossoc  Angling  Association.  Indian  Rock  is  a  famous  old 
Indian  camping-ground,  and  is  the  favorite  resort  of  sportsmen,  being 
the  most  central  point  of  the  region,  and  within  half  a  mile  of  the  lakes 
Mooselucmaguntic  and  Cupsuptic.  Lake  Oquossoc,  or  Rangeley,  is  Y 
miles  long  and  2  miles  wide  at  the  widest  part,  and  is  surrounded  by 
forest-clad  hills.  Lake  Mooselucmaguntic  is  the  largest  of  the  series, 
and  is  10  miles  long  and  2  to  4  wide.  At  Haines'  Landinj  is  the  Moose- 
lucmaguntic House.  Four  small  steamers  ply  on  the  lakes,  forming  an 
almost  continuous  and  connecting  line  from  the  head  of  Rangeley  to 
the  foot  of  Umbagog.  Traveling  in  this  remote  wilderness  is  difficult, 
and  guides  should  be  procured  by  those  who  leave  the  more  frequented 
localities.  Upton  is  a  small  town  of  232  inhabitants  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Umbagog.  A  small  steamer  runs  thence  in  13  miles  to  Errol 
Bam  {Umhagog  House\  a  lumbermen's  village  in  New  Hampshire,  at 
the  head-waters  of  the  Androscoggin. 

Another  route  from  Portland  to  the  Eangeley  Lakes  is  via  Grand  Trunk  R. 
R.  to  Bethel,  and  thence  by  stage  to  Cambridge,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Umbagog 
(distance,  26  miles  ;  fare,  S2.50)  :  or  to  Andover,  and  thence  to  the  S.  arm  of 
Richardson  Lake,  connecting  there  with  steamer  running  in  connection  with 
others  for  the  Upper  Lakes.  ~The  railroad  journey  is  described  in  Route  19  b. 
The  stage-route  traverses  a  wild  but  picturesque  region. 

26.  Portland  to  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Via  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.    Distance  to  Montreal,  297  miles.    To  Quebec,  317  miles. 

The  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  is  an  important  thoroughfare,  and  connects 
the  maritime  city  of  Portland  with  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Great 
Lakes  of  the  interior.  Its  route  traverses  a  fertile  and  productive 
country,  for  the  most  part  under  fine  cultivation,  the  streams  in  its 
vicinity  affording  to  the  manufacturer  water-power  of  the  greatest  value, 
and  to  the  tourist  a  variety  of  picturesque  and  romantic  scenery.  As 
far  as  Gorham  (91  miles),  the  entrance  from  this  direction  of  the 
White  Mountain  region,  it  has  already  been  described  in  Route  19  6. 
Beyond  Gorham  it  follows  the  line  of  the  Androscoggin  and  the  Upper 
Ammonoosuc  to  Groveton  Junction  (122  miles),  and  thence  passes  into 
the  valley  of  the  Connecticut,  reaching  the  banks  of  that  river  at  JSforth 
Stratford  (134  miles),  the  last  station  in  New  Hampshire.  From  N. 
Stratford  connection  is  made  with  the  Quebec  Div.  of  the  Maine  Cen- 
tral R.  R.,  which  passes  to  Colehrook  {Monadnock  House),  near  which  is 
Upper  Mt.  Monadnock,  and  from  which  it  is  easy  to  reach  the  *  Dix- 
ville  Notch,  10  miles  S.  E.  This  remarkable  pass  is  much  narrower 
than  either  of  the  great  Notches  in  the  White  Mountains,  and  no  por- 
tion of  the  White  Mts.  surpasses  it  in  sublimity  or  in  a  certain  desolate 
and  wild  grandeur.  It  is  1-i-  mile  long,  and  about  half-way  through  is  a 
lofty  projecting  pinnacle  called  Table  Rock,  600  ft.  high,  from  which 
one  can  look  into  Maine,  Yermont,  and  Canada.  The  Dix  House  is  a 
summer  hotel  at  the  mouth  of  the  Notch. 

Beyond  N.  Stratford  the  route  enters  Yermont  and  passes  in  15 
miles  to  Island  Pond,  where  the  railway  company  has  erected  hand- 


142  BOSTON   TO   MONTREAL.  [Route  27. 

some  buildings,  and  where  the  border  custom-house  is  located.  Eleven 
miles  beyond,  the  train  passes  Norton  Mills  (160  miles),  and  enters  the 
Dominion  of  Canada.  At  Lennoxville  (193  miles),  connection  is  made 
with  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.,  and  3  miles  beyond  is  Sherbrooke, 
the  most  important  station  between  Portland  and  Montreal,  only  16  miles 
from  Lake  Memphremagog  (see  Route  30).  At  Richmond  (221  miles) 
the  Quebec  Branch  diverges,  while  the  main  line  runs  almost  due  west 
in  76  miles  to  Montreal  (297  miles).  St.  Hyacinthe  {2id'i  miles)  is  a 
quaint  old  French-Canadian  city  on  the  Yamaska  Rivei',  with  a  fine 
cathedral  and  famous  Jesuit  college.  At  St.  Lamhert.,  the  train  crosses 
the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  magnificent  Victoria  Bridge  and  enters  Mont- 
real (see  Route  60). 

The  Quebec  Branch  runs  N.  E.  from  Richmond  to  Quebec  in  96 
miles,  traversing  a  thinly  populated  but  picturesque  region,  and  stop- 
ping at  a  number  of  small  stations,  of  which  the  principal  are  Dmiville 
(12  miles  from  Richmond)  and  Arthabaska  (32  miles).  From  the  latter 
a  branch  road  runs  in  35  miles  to  Doucefs  Landing.^  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, which  is  connected  with  Three  Rivers  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
river  by  means  of  a  ferry.  The  train  stops  at  Point  Levi,  opposite 
Quebec,  and  passengers  cross  the  St.  Lawrence  in  fei-ry-boats.  Quebec 
(see  Route  60). 

27.  Boston  to  Montreal  via  Lowell  and  Concord. 

Via  the  Boston  &  Maine,  Concord  &  Montreal,  and  Central  Vermont  Rail- 
roads.    Distances  :  to  Lowell,  26  miles  ;  to  Concord,  75  ;  to  Montreal,  384. 

This  route  traverses  the  most  populous  portion  of  three  States,  pass- 
ing very  many  cities,  towns,  and  villages,  of  which  only  the  most  impor- 
tant can  be  even  mentioned.  Lowell  (American,  Merrimac,  Washing- 
ton) is  28  miles  from  Boston,  and  is  the  third  city  of  Massachusetts 
in  point  of  population  (77,696),  and  one  of  the  most  noted  manufactur- 
ing cities  in  the  Union.  It  is  situated  on  the  Merrimac,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Concord,  and  the  source  of  its  prosperity  are  the  Pawtucket  Falls 
in  the  Merrimac,  which  have  a  descent  of  30  ft.,  and  furnish  water- 
power  to  the  extent  of  about  10,000  horse-power.  The  city  is  regularly 
laid  out  and  well  built,  Belvidere,  the  E.  part,  being  the  handsomest 
portion.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  Court-House,  the  City- 
Hall,  and  several  fine  churches  and  school-houses.  The  vast  mills  are 
among  the  most  noteworthy  structures.  There  are  several  tastefully 
ornamented  public  squares;  and  in  one  of  them  (on  Merrimac  St.)  is  a 
monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Ladd  and  Whitney,  who  fell  in  the 
attack  upon  the  6th  Massachusetts  in  Baltimore,  April  19,  1861.  Near 
this  monument  is  *  Ranch's  fine  bronze  statue  of  "  Victory,"  erected  as 
a  memorial  of  the  Lowell  men  who  fell  in  the  civil  war.  Beyond  Lowell 
the  line  follows  the  Merrimac  to  Concord,  entering  New  Hampshire  just 
beyond  Tyngsboro  (38  miles),  and  soon  after  reaching  Nashua  [Hotel 
Dexter,  Latin  Hotel,  Tremont  House),  a  pretty  manufacturing  city  of 
19,311  inhabitants,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Merrimac  and  Nashua  Rivers. 
Here  the  cars  pass  on  to  the  tracks  of  the  Concord  &  Montreal  R.  R.,  and 


Route  27,]  BOSTON    TO    MOKTEEAL.  143 

in  17  miles  reach  Manchester  {Eha  flouse^  Hotel  Belmont ,  Manchester 
House ^  and  Windfsor  Hotel\  the  largest  citj^  of  New  Hampshire,  with  a 
population  in  1890  of  44,126,  and  extensive  manufactm-es,  chiefly  of 
prints.  The  water-power  is  furnished  by  a  canal  around  the  Amoskeag 
Falls  of  the  Merrimac,  and  on  the  canal  are  located  the  immense  fac- 
tories. In  the  city  are  a  number  of  neat  public  squares,  several  fine 
churches,  and  a  public  library  with  20,000  volumes. 

Nine  miles  beyond  Manchester  is  Hook^ett^  the  site  of  several  cotton- 
factories  and  extensive  brick-yards.  Here  the  Merrimac  is  crossed  on  a 
bridge  550  ft.  long.  W.  of  the  town  is  Pinnacle  Mountain^  the  summit 
of  which  commands  broad  views.  Nine  miles  from  Hooksett  is  Con- 
cord {Eagle  Hotel)^  the  capital  of  New  Hampshire,  handsomely  built  on 
the  sloping  W.  bank  of  the  Merrimac  Kiver,  with  streets  regularly 
laid  out  and  shaded  with  an  abundance  of  trees.  The  city  is  cele- 
brated for  its  carriage-manufactories  and  for  the  superior  quality  of 
the  granite  quarried  in  the  vicinity,  some  of  the  finest  structures  in  the 
country  being  built  of  it.  Main  St.  and  State  St.  are  the  leading 
streets.  The  ^  State  Capitol  is  a  fine  building  of  Concord  granite, 
situated  in  a  square  bounded  by  Main,  State,  Park,  and  Capitol  Sts. 
The  City  Hall  and  Cotirt-House  is  a  brick  structure  on  Main  St.,  N.  of 
the  Capitol.  The  State  Prison  is  a  granite  building  on  Main  St.,  and 
the  Asylum  for  the  Insane  has  handsome  buildings  in  the  W.  part  of 
the  city.     The  population  of  Concord  in  1890  was  17,004. 

At  Concord  the  train  takes  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  (Concord  Div.), 
and  passes  in  69  miles  to  MHiite  River  Junction^  with  numerous  small 
stations  en  route.  Near  Franklin  (19  miles)  Daniel  Webster  was  born 
in  1782.  From  Potter  Place  (31  miles)  stages  run  in  4  miles  to  Mt» 
Kearsarge,  from  the  summit  of  which  (2,943  ft.  above  the  sea)  there 
is  a  noble  view.  (This  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  White  Mount- 
ain peak  of  the  same  name,  described  on  page  121.)  About  half-way 
from  base  to  summit  is  the  Winslow  House,  a  commodious  summer 
hotel.  At  W.  Lebanon  (67  miles)  the  train  crosses  the  Connecticut,  on 
a  bridge  which  commands  fine  views  of  the  river,  and  enters  White 
River  Junction,  the  converging  point  of  4  important  railroads. 
There  is  a  good  restaurant  in  the  depot,  and  trains  usually  stop  long 
enough  for  a  meal  to  be  eaten. 

At  White  River  Junction  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  is  taken,  and 
the  train  passes  on  into  Vermont,  following  the  White  River  for  25 
miles,  and  crossing  it  several  times.  Sharon  Station  (13  miles  from  the 
Junction)  is  opposite  the  village  of  Sharon^  where  Joseph  Smith,  the 
founder  of  Mormonism,  was  born  in  1805.  The  scenery  now  becomes 
more  bold  and  rugged,  the  hills  increase  in  height,  and  beyond  W.  Ran- 
dolph (32  miles)  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Green  Mountains  come 
into  view,  on  the  left.  At  Roxbiiry  (46  miles)  the  road  leaves  the 
White  River,  and,  crossing  the  summit  of  the  pass  (1,000  feet  above 
the  sea),  reaches  the  source  of  Dog  River  and  descends  to  Nortlifield 
(53  miles),  where  is  located  the  Norwich  University,  a  military  college. 
Ten  miles  beyond  Northfield  is  Montpelier  Junction.^  whence  a  short 
bi-anch   road  runs   to   Montpelier   {Pavilion  Hotel),  the  capital  of 


144:  BOSTON    TO    MOKTREAL.  [Uoute  27. 

Vermont,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Winooski  River,  in  a  narrow 
valley  surrounded  by  hills.  The  village  is  compactly  built,  and  has  a 
population  of  about  4,160.  The  ^  State  Capitol  is  a  fine  edifice  of  light- 
colored  granite,  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  the  main  building  being  72  ft. 
long,  and  each  of  the  wings  52  ft.  The  main  building  is  113  ft.  deep, 
and  124  ft.  high  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  which  is  surmounted  by  a  grace- 
ful statue  of  Ceres.  The  entrance  is  approached  from  a  Common  by  gran- 
ite steps  in  terraces.  In  the  portico  is  a  marble  statue  of  Ethan  Allen,  by 
the  Vermont  sculi3tor,  Larkin  G.  Mead ;  and  in  the  building  are  historical 
and  geological  cabinets,  a  State  Library  with  15,000  volumes,  and  the 
flags  carried  by  the  Vermont  volunteers  during  the  civil  war.  Mt, 
Hunga  is  7  miles  from  Montpelier,  and  from  it  may  be  had  a  very  fine 
view.  A  carriage-road  has  been  constructed  to  within  \  mile  of  the  sum- 
mit. The  picturesque  Benjamhi^s  Falls  are  within  a  mile  of  Mont- 
pelier. 

From  Waterhiiry  (7  miles  beyond  Montpelier)  stages  run  in  10 
miles  to  Stowe  {Mt.  Man.\field  House).,  a  much-frequented  summer 
resort,  delightfully  situated  on  a  plain  surrounded  by  noble  mountain 
scenery.  Favorite  excursions  from  Stowe  are  to  Moss-Glen  Falls  (3 
miles).  Gold  Brook  (3  miles),  Binghani's  Falls  (5  miles),  iMorrisville 
Falls  (8  miles),  and  Smuggler^  Notch  (8  miles).  The  latter  is  a  wild 
and  picturesque  pass  between  Mts.  Mansfield  and  Stirling.  But  the 
great  excursion  is  to  the  top  of  *Mt,  Mansfield,  the  loftiest  peak 
of  the  Green  Mountains  (4,389  ft.  high).  Its  summit,  as  seen  from 
Stowe,  is  likened  to  the  upturned  face  of  a  giant,  showing  the  Forehead, 
Nose,  and  Chin  in  three  separate  peaks.  The  Nose  has  a  projection  of 
400  ft.,  and  the  Chin  all  the  decision  of  character  indicated  by  a  for- 
ward thrust  of  800  ft.  A  good  carriage-road  carries  the  tourist  fi'om 
Stowe  to  the  Summit  House  at  the  base  of  the  Nose,  whence  a  steep 
and  rugged  path  leads  to  the  top,  the  view  from  which  is  little  if  at  all 
inferior  to  that  from  Mt.  Washington.  The  Chin  is  400  ft.  higher 
than  the  Nose,  and  may  be  ascended  from  the  Summit  House  by  a  path 
2  miles  long.  The  view  is  in  all  respects  similar  to  that  from  the  Nose. 
One  night,  at  least,  should  be  spent  at  the  Summit  House  in  order  to 
enjoy  the  glorious  sunrise  and  sunset  views. 

From  Ridley's  Station  (5  miles  beyond  Waterbury)  carriages  run  in 
6  miles  to  Camel's  Hump,  the  second  highest  of  the  Green  Mountain 
peaks  (4,077  ft.  high).  A  carriage-i^oad  extends  about  half-way  to  the 
summit,  and  the  remainder  of  the  ascent  may  be  made  either  on  horse- 
back or  on  foot.  The  view  closely  resembles  that  from  Mt.  Mansfield, 
but  this  noble  peak  itself  now  forms  one  of  the  most  striking  features 
of  the  landscape.     The  beautiful  Bolton  Falls  are  near  Ridley's  Station. 

Beyond  this  point,  the  route  traverses  the  picturesque  valley  of  the 
Winooski,  and  at  Williston  (91  miles)  emerges  into  a  more  open  country. 
On  the  right  of  the  cars  are  now  visible  the  summits  of  the  Green 
Mountains ;  on  the  left,  beyond  Lake  Champlain,  those  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks.  At  Fssex  Junction  (94  miles)  a  branch  road  runs  in  8  miles  to 
Burlington  (see  p.  149).  The  main  line  continues  N.  with  the  Green 
Mts.  constantly  in  view  on  the  right,  and  Lake  Champlain  frequently 


Route  28.]  BOSTON    TO    MONTREAL.  145 

in  sight  on  the  left.  St.  Albans  is  121  miles  from  White  River  Junc- 
tion, and  265  miles  from  Boston.  It  is  built  upon  an  elevated  plateau 
3  miles  from  Lake  Champlain,  and  is  one  of  the  prettiest  villages  in  the 
country.  "  St.  Albans,"  says  Mr.  Beecher,  "  is  a  place  in  the  midst  of 
greater  variety  of  scenic  beauty  than  any  other  I  remember  in  America." 
The  public  square  of  4  acres  in  the  center  of  the  village  is  an  orna- 
mental ground,  surrounded  by  the  principal  buildings.  The  extensive 
shops  of  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  are  located  at  St.  Albans,  and  the 
village  is  noted  as  the  market-place  of  the  great  butter  and  cheese 
business  of  Franklin  Co.  Magnificent  views  are  obtained  from  Aldis 
Hill  {^  mile  N.  E.  of  the  village)  and  from  Bellevue  Hill  (2  miles  S.  W.). 
Ten  miles  N.  E.  of  St.  Albans  (on  the  Missisquoi  Yalley  Div.)  are  the 
Missisquoi  Springs  and  Sheldon  Springs,  both  supposed  to  cure 
cancer.  There  are  nearly  20  medicinal  springs  in  Sheldon.  The  hotels 
are  Congress  Hall  and  the  Portland  House.     Population,  1,365. 

Beyond  St.  Albans  the  route  reaches  Swanton  Junction.^  whence  a 
branch  line  diverges  to  Rouse's  Point  and  Ogdenshiirg^  passing  the 
Alhurgh  Springs,  whose  waters  are  a  specific  for  cutaneous  diseases. 
On  the  main  line  to  Montreal,  12  miles  N.  of  St.  Albans,  are  Highgate 
Springs,  another  valued  mineral  water ;  and  3  miles  beyond,  the  train 
crosses  the  boundary  and  enters  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  passing  6  or 

8  small  stations.  At  St.  Johns  (42  miles  from  St.  Albans)  the  Grand 
Trunk  R.  R.  is  taken,  and  the  train  passes  in  27  miles  to  Montreal 
(see  Route  60). 

28.  Boston  to  Montreal  via  IJashua  and  Concord  and 
Plymouth,  N.  H. 

Distances :  To  Nashua,  39  miles ;  to  Concord,  75  miles ;  to  Montreal,  342 
miles.  This  route  is,  perhaps,  the  pleasantest  that  can  be  taken  to  reach  Mont- 
real and  the  St.  Lawrence.  Frequent  trains  leave  Boston,  the  express  leaving 
7.15  p.  M.,  arriving  at  Monti'eal  7.55  a.  m.,  and  the  morning  train  leaving  Boston 

9  A.  M.,  arriving  at  Montreal  8.35  p.  m. 

On  leaving  Nashua,  which  has  been  previously  described  (page 
142),  the  train  runs  north  through  Manchester  to  Concord,  and  thence 
due  north  to  Lake  Winnepesaukee  (page  133),  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  touched  by  the  railway  on  its  western  shores.  The  views  ob- 
tained from  the  cars  of  this  lake  and  the  islands  with  which  it  is  dotted 
are  one  of  the  attractions  which  make  this  route  so  popular.  Plymouth, 
N.  H.,  is  the  next  important  city  reached,  from  which  there  are  branch 
lines  to  the  summer  resorts  in  the  White  Mountains,  and  from  this 
point  to  Wells  River  the  line  runs  through  a  picturesque  country,  with 
the  White  Mountains  close  on  the  right  of  the  railway.  Sharply  defined 
in  the  foreground  is  Lafayette,  and  to  the  south  the  Profile  range ;  to 
the  east  and  north.  Cherry  Mountain  and  the  Lancaster  range ;  while  be- 
tween Lafayette  and  Cherry  tower  the  grander  summits  of  famed  Mount 
Washington  and  the  Presidential  range,  The  route  continues  to  St. 
Johnshury,  in  Vermont,  a  flourishing  town,  in  which  the  most  noted  manu- 
factory is  that  of  Fairbanks's  scales  (see  p.  153).  Proceedinsr  north  the 
10 


146  BOSTON   TO   MONTREAL.  [Route  29. 

road  follows  the  Passumpsic  River  for  some  distance,  presenting  many 
favorable  vie>vs  of  the  picturesque  Green  Mountains,  antil  Nev^port^  at 
the  head  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  is  reached.  Thousands  of  tourists 
from  all  over  the  United  States  and  Canada  visit  Lake  Memphremagog. 
Lovely  islands  dot  its  surface ;  rugged  hills  frown  down  upon  it  and  are 
mirrored  in  its  limpid  depths,  and  high  above  all  tower  the  two  famous 
promontories  of  Elephantis  and  Owl's  Head.  The  dense  forest  looks 
dark  and  almost  forbidding,  but  those  shadowy  woods  have  re-echoed 
the  merry  laugh  and  jests  of  many  happy  voices  whose  owners  have 
gathei-ed  at  the  common  point  in  quest  of  that  closely  pursued  object — 
pleasure.  From  Magog  a  steamer  makes  a  daily  trip  round  the  lake, 
touching  at  many  points,  including  Georgeville,  the  Revere  House,  near 
Elephantis ;  the  Mountain  House,  at  the  foot  of  Owl's  Head,  and  New- 
port. This  excursion  by  steamer  forms  a  most  enjoyable  side-trip,  for 
the  tourist  can  stop  at  Magog,  make  the  circuit  of  the  lake  and  see  its 
many  beauties,  and  from  Newport  go  by  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  to 
either  Boston,  the  White  Mountains,  or  to  Montreal.  From  the  steamer 
one  has  a  fine  view  of  the  lake,  its  picturesque  surroundings  and 
islands,  the  numerous  handsome  summer  residences  upon  the  shores, 
and  all  points  of  interest,  including  the  mountains.  From  Newport  the 
line  turns  westwardly  to  Richford^  and  thence  by  SiUton  Junction  in 
the  Province  of  Quebec,  and  by  Farnham  to  St.  John's  and  Montreal, 
crossing  the  St.  Lawrence  River  over  the  Canadian  Pacific  cantilever 
bridge  at  Lachine. 

29.  Boston  to  Montreal  via  Rutland  and  Burlington. 

Via  Fitcliburg  E.  R.,  and  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  Distance  to  Fitchburg.  50 
miles  ;  to  JBellows  Falls,  114  miles  ;  to  Rutland,  166  miles  ;  to  Burlington. '234 
miles  ;  to  Montreal,  329  miles. 

Leaving  Boston  by  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.  (depot  on  Causeway  St. 
near  the  Warren  Bridge),  the  train  passes  Charlestowm,  Somerville,  and 
Cambridge  (described  in  connection  with  Boston),  and  in  10  miles  reaches 
Waltham,  a  flourishing  manufacturing  town  of  18,707  inhabitants  on 
the  Charles  River,  noted  as  the  site  of  the  Waltham  Watch  Company's 
Works,  which  are  the  most  extensive  in  the  world.  The  first,  cotton- 
mill  in  the  United  States  was  erected  at  Waltham  in  1814.  Near  the 
village  is  Prospect  Hill  (480  ft.  high),  affording  broad  views.  Ten  miles 
farther  (20  miles  from  Boston)  is  Concord  {TJioremi  House)^  a  hand- 
some manufacturing  village  of  4,427  inhabitants,  on  both  sides  of  the 
Concord  River.  Here,  on  April  19,  1775,  the  same  day  as  the  battle  of 
Lexington,  blood  was  shed,  and  the  great  drama  of  the  Revolution  begun. 
A  granite  obelisk,  25  ft.  in  height,  marks  the  spot.  liCxington  is  11 
miles  from  Concord  by  a  branch  road.  On  the  village  green  stands  a 
monument,  erected  by  the  State,  to  the  memory  of  the  8  men  who  were 
killed  in  the  battle.  Ayer  Jtmdion  (36  miles)  was  formerly  called  Groton 
Junction,  and  is  a  thriving  village  and  railroad  center.  Fitchburg 
{American  House^  Fitchburg)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  city  of  22,037  in- 
habitants, built  along  the  Nashua  River,  which  affords  a  fine  water-power. 


Route  29.]  BOSTOI^   TO    MO^^TEEAL.  147 

Its  principal  manufactures  are  machinery  and  agricultural  implements, 
paper,  chairs,  and  cotton  goods.  A  bronze  monument,  in  memory  of 
her  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  civil  war,  has  been  erected  by  the  city,  from 
designs  by  Millmore.  Kollstone  Hill  and  Pearl  Hill,  near  the  city, 
afford  fine  views. 

At  Westrnhister  the  train  passes  northward,  and  several  small  stations 
are  passed  in  quick  succession,  of  which  the  principal  is  Winchendon 
(18  miles).  Just  beyond  Winchendon  the  State  line  is  crossed,  and  the 
train  enters  New  Hampshire,  stopping  at  Fitzvnlliam  (Cheshire  House, 
Fitzwilliam  Hotel),  a  hilly  town,  watered  by  several  streams  and  ponds 
well  stocked  with  fish.  Five  miles  beyond  is  Troy^  whence  stages  run 
in  5  miles  to  *Monadnock  Mountain,  in  the  town  of  Jaifrey.  It 
is  3,169  ft.  high,  and  from  its  summit  40  lakes  and  a  large  number  of 
villages  are  in  view,  while  the  scenery  immediately  around  is  grand  and 
beautiful.  A  large  summer  hotel  has  been  erected  half-way  up  the 
mountain.  Keene  (42  miles  ;  Cheshire  House^  Eagle  House)  has  thriv- 
ing manufactures  of  leather,  boots  and  shoes,  furniture,  organs,  etc., 
and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  in  New  England.  It  is 
built  on  a  flat  E.  of  the  Ashuelot  River,  and  has  broad  and  pleasantly 
shaded  streets ;  population,  7,446.  Walpole  (60  miles)  is  a  pretty  vil- 
lage near  the  base  of  Mt.  Kilburn,  much  resorted  to  in  summer  on 
account  of  its  scenic  attractions.  From  the  summit  of  Derry  Hill  an 
extensive  and  pleasing  view  may  be  had.  Four  miles  beyond  Walpole 
the  train  crosses  the  river  into  Vermont,  and  stops  at  Bellows  Falls 
( Commercial  House),  a  well-known  railroad  center  and  summer  resort ; 
population,  3,092.  The  Falls  are  a  series  of  rapids  in  the  Connecticut, 
extending  about  a  mile  along  the  base  of  a  high  and  precipitous  hill, 
known  as  Mt.  Kilburn,  which  skirts  the  river  on  the  New  Hampshire 
side.  At  the  bridge  which  crosses  the  river  at  this  place  the  visitor  can 
stand  directly  over  the  boiling  flood ;  viewed  from  whence,  the  whole 
scene  is  veiw  effective.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood  are  the  Ahend- 
quis  Springs,,  highly  tonic  and  possessing  medicinal  properties.  Hall 
Mountain  Hotel  is  located  near  the  springs  at  the  base  of  Mt.  Killjurn, 
and  is  a  pleasant  resort  for  invalids.  There  is  a  good  path  from  the 
hotel  to  the  Table  Rock  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  from  which  an  ex- 
tended view  of  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  is  had. 

From  Bellows  Falls  the  route  is  via  the  Rutland  Div.  of  the  Central 
Vermont  R.  R.,  which  passes  through  the  marble  district,  through  the 
Green  Mountains,  and  near  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  affording  fine 
views  along  nearly  the  whole  line.  At  BartonsviUe  (9  miles  from  Bel- 
lows Falls)  the  ascent  of  the  mountains  begins,  and  between  this  and 
Chester  (13  miles)  is  a  deep  ravine  spanned  by  a  bridge.  At  Heal dv 'die 
(33  miles)  the  grades  become  heavy,  and  in  a  mile  the  train  reaches 
Summit,  the  highest  point  on  the  line.  In  the  18  miles  between  Sum- 
mit and  Rutland  there  is  a  descent  of  1,000  ft.  Rutland  {Bardivell 
House,  Bcdes  House)  is  a  prosperous  town  of  11,760  inhabitants,  at 
the  junction  of  the  present  route  with  the  Bennington  &  Rutland  and 
Delaware  &  Hudson  Systems,  166  miles  from  Boston,  230  from  New 
York  {via  Harlem  Division  of  N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.  R.  R.  and  Benning- 


148  BOSTON    TO    MONTREAL.  [Route  29. 

ton  &  Eutland  Railway),  and  68  from  Burlington.  The  town  is  pictur- 
esquely situated,  contains  some  fine  public  and  commercial  buildings,  in- 
cluding the  State  Workhouse  and  the  extensive  Howe  Scale  Works,  has 
numerous  quarries  and  marble-works  in  its  vicinity  now  organized  into 
one  corporation,  the  largest  in  the  world  of  its  kind,  and  which  dictates 
the  price  of  marble  throughout  the  United  States,  and  is  a  center  from 
which  several  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made.  The  road  to  Killing- 
ton  Peak  C?  Miles  E.)  is  unattractive,  and  the  ascent  arduous,  but  the 
view  from  its  summit,  which  is  4,221  ft.  high,  is  extremely  fine.  Mt. 
Ida,  too,  is  near  by,  and  beyond  Killington  Peak,  as  seen  from  Rutland, 
are  3ft.  Pico  and  Castleton  Ridge,  shutting  out  the  view  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  Another  pleasant  excursion  from  Rutland  is  to  the  Clarendon 
Springs,  6  miles  distant.  These  mineral  springs  are  a  highly  popular 
resort,  and  the  hotel  can  accommodate  250  guests. 

Sutherland  Falls  (6  miles  N.  of  Rutland)  is  the  site  of  large  marble- 
works,  and  3  miles  beyond  is  Pittsford,  noted  for  its  beds  of  iron- 
ore  and  extensive  marble-quarries.  Seventeen  miles  from  Rutland  is 
Srandon,  a  manufacturing  village  of  3,310  inhabitants,  with  marble- 
quarries,  vast  deposits  of  excellent  bog  iron-ore,  and  several  factories 
where  mineral  paint  is  made  from  mines  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  pleas- 
antly situated,  near  fine  scenery,  and  draws  many  summer  visitors. 
From  Salishury  (10  miles  beyond  Brandon)  stages  run  in  5  miles  to 
Lake  Dunmore,  a  lovely  mountain-lake,  nestling  at  the  foot  of 
the  loftiest  range  of  the  Green  Mountains,  and  almost  surrounded  by 
bold  hills,  seen  here  in  verdant  slopes  and  there  in  rocky  bluff  and  pre- 
cipitous cliff.  It  is  about  4  miles  long  and  1-^  mile  wide  at  the  widest 
part,  and  its  clear  and  limpid  waters  afford  excellent  bathing,  boating, 
and  fishing.  On  the  W.  shore  is  a  summer  hotel  with  cottages.  The 
drives  in  the  vicinity  are  exceptionally  pleasant.  Six  miles  beyond  Salis- 
bury is  the  picturesque  and  handsomely  built  village  of  Middlebury, 
situated  on  Otter  Creek  at  some  fine  falls  in  that  stream,  and  surrounded 
on  all  sides  by  most  attractive  mountain  scenery.  It  has  a  population 
of  about  2,793,  and  is  distinguished  as  the  seat  of  Middlehxiry  College, 
founded  in  1800.  The  college  has  3  large  stone  buildings  in  the  midst 
of  extensive  grounds,  with  a  librai7  of  14,000  volumes  and  a  small 
natural-history  collection.  The  favorite  excursions  from  Middlebury 
ai*e  to  Beldeti's  Falls  (2|-  miles),  to  Lake  Dunmore  (8  miles),  to  Bristol 
(11  miles),  and  to  Snake  Mountain  (10  miles),  from  the  summit  of 
which  there  is  a  remarkably  fine  view  of  the  Green  Mountain  range 
from  Mt.  Mansfield  to  Rutland,  of  the  clustering  Adirondack  peaks,  of 
the  northern  part  of  Lake  George,  and  of  Lake  Champlain,  from  Ticon- 
deroga  to  the  great  bay  above  Burlington.  On  the  summit  are  a  small 
hotel  and  a  wooden  tower  80  ft.  high.  The  famous  Bread-Loaf  Inn 
at  Ripton  is  reached  by  stage  from  Middlebury  in  8^  miles. 

Fourteen  miles  beyond  Middlebury  (4*7  from  Rutland)  is  Ver- 
gennes,  the  oldest  city  in  Vermont  (incorporated  in  1783),  and  one  of 
the  smallest  in  the  Union,  with  a  population  in  1890  of  1,773.  It  is  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  Otter  Creek,  8  miles  from  Lake  Champlain, 
and  near  the  Falls,   which  have  a  descent  of    37  ft.     Commodore 


Route  29.]  BOSTON   TO   MONTEEAL.  149 

McDonough's  fleet,  whicti  won  the  naval  battle  of  Lake  Champlain 
(Sept.  11,  1814),  was  fitted  out  at  Yergennes, 

Burlington  {Vcm  Ness  and  American  Hoiise^  Burlington  Hotel\ 
the  largest  city  of  Vermont,  is  situated  upon  the  E.  shore  of  Lake 
Champlain,  on  ground  which  rises  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  367  ft. 
The  first  permanent  settlement  at  Burlington  was  made  in  lYSS,  and  it 
was  formerly  one  of  the  great  lumber-marts  of  the  country.  In  1865 
the  township  was  divided  into  the  city  of  Burlington  and  the  town  of 
South  Bui'lington.  The  city  grew  rapidly,  for  an  Eastern  city,  and 
had  in  1890  14,590  inhabitants.  It  has  several  of  the  largest  mills 
in  the  country  for  planing  and  dressing  lumber,  and  extensive  manufac- 
tories of  articles  of  wood,  as  of  doors,  packing-boxes,  spools,  etc.,  as 
also  of  cotton  and  marble.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  handsomely 
built,  and  many  of  the  residences  and  churches  are  noticeable  for  their 
beauty.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary  (Roman  Catholic)  is  a  large  and 
striking  structure;  and  St.  PauVs  Church  (Episcopal)  is  a  fine  old  stone 
building,  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  windows  of  stained  glass.  The  Cotirt- 
House  and  the  Custom-House  and  Post-0 ffice  are  handsome  buildings, 
on  the  public  square  in  the  center  of  the  city.  The  City  Hcdl  and  the 
Fletcher  Library  (containing  18,000  volumes)  are  also  on  the  square. 
On  Church  St.  is  a  spacious  and  handsome  Opera-House.^  completed  in 
1879.  The  depot  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.,  near  the  wharf,  is  an 
extensive  building.  Other  buildings  of  interest  are  the  Lake  View  Re- 
treat (a  private  insane  asylum),  and  the  Providence  Orphan  Asylum 
(Roman  Catholic).  The  University  of  Vermont^  whose  buildings  crown 
the  summit  of  the  hill  back  of  the  city,  was  incorporated  in  1791,  organ- 
ized in  1800,  and  is  open  to  both  sexes.  The  corner-stone  was  laid  by 
Lafayette  in  1825.  A  statue  of  Lafayette  by  J.  Q.  A,  Ward  is  on 
the  college  green.  In  1865  the  State  Agricuftural  College  was  united 
with  it.  It  has  a  library  of  28,000  volumes,  and  a  museum  containing 
upward  of  50,000  specimens  in  natural  history.  The  Billings  Lihrary., 
given  to  the  college  at  a  cost  of  8150,000,  contains  the  collection  (28,- 
950  volumes)  belonging  to  the  late  Geo.  P.  Marsh,  which  cost  $25,000, 
and  is  the  best  collection  of  books  in  the  northern  languages  in  the 
world.  The  view  from  the  dome  of  the  university  building  is  superb, 
and  has  been  pronounced  the  finest  lake-view  in  America,  and  is  per- 
haps equaled  by  the  *  view  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  costly  3fary 
Fletcher  HosjAtal,  a  little  to  the  N.  E.  The  10  miles  width  of  the  lake 
makes  an  admirable  foreground  for  the  towering  Adirondack  peaks  on 
the  W.,  while  to  the  E.  the  chain  of  the  Green  Mountains  lifts  against 
the  sky,  and  N.  and  S.  lies  a  great  expanse  of  lake.  iSear  the  university 
is  the  Green-Mount  Cemetery.^  where  Ethan  Allen  lies,  under  a  granite 
shaft  42  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  marble  statue  of  the  old  hero.  Lake 
View  Cemetery.,  in  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  city,  directly  on  the  shore  of 
the  lake,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  State. 

From  Burlington  to  Essex  Junction.,  the  distance  is  8  miles,  and  the 
train  passes  en  route  the  picturesque  falls  of  the  Winooski  River. 
From  Essex  Junction  the  route  is  the  same  as  in  Route  27.  The  dis- 
tance from  Burlinoton  to  Montreal  is  95  miles. 


150  KEW   YOEK   TO   MONTEEAL.  [Route  30. 

30.  New  York  to  Montreal  and  Cliiebec  by  the 
Connecticut  Valley. 

Via  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  K.  R.,  Connecticut  River  R.  R., 
Central  Vermont  R.  R.,  and  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  Distances  :  New  York  to 
Springfield,  136  miles  ;  to  Bellows  Falls,  220  miles  ;  to  White  River  Junction, 
260  miles  ;  to  Montreal,  617  miles  {via  Sherbrooke),  561  miles  {via  Montpelier 
and  St.  Albans);  to  Quebec,  637  miles.  Trains  leaving  New  York  at  9  a.  m.  and 
4  p.  M.  make  connection  at  Springfield  for  all  northern  points  by  way  of  the 
Connecticut  River  Line. 

As  far  as  Springfield,  Mass.,  this  route  has  already  been  de- 
scribed in  Route  11.  Leaving  Springfield,  the  train  passes  over  level 
meadow-lands  along  the  Connecticut  River,  and  in  4  miles  reaches 
Chicopee,  a  handsome  town  of  14,050  inhabitants,  noteworthy  as  the 
site  of  the  Ames  Manufacturing  Co.,  which  produces  so  many  fine  arms 
and  bronzes.  Here  were  cast  the  bronze  doors  of  the  Senate  wing  of 
the  Capitol  at  Washington  (see  p.  SV),  and  Ball's  equestrian  statue  of 
Washington,  in  the  Public  Garden  at  Boston.  Four  miles  beyond  is 
Holyoke  {Hotel  Hamilton  and  Windsor  Hotel\  which  possesses  the 
greatest  water-power  in  New  England,  being  the  site  of  the  great  dam 
of  the  Holyoke  Water-Power  Co.  The  river  has  a  fall  here  of  60  ft. 
in  f  of  a  mile,  and  is  dammed  by  an  immense  structure  1,000  ft.  in 
length  and  30  ft.  in  height,  built  of  wood  spiked  to  the  rock  of  the 
river-bed  and  covered  with  plates  of  boiler-iron.  This  dam  throws  the 
water  into  a  canal  which  distributes  it  to  the  various  factories.  Holyoke 
had  35,637  inhabitants  in  1890,  is  well  built,  and  boasts  of  one  of  the 
finest  City  Halls  in  Massachusetts,  and  of  a  handsome  soldiers'  monu- 
ment. Beyond  Holyoke  the  scenery  grows  more  picturesque,  the  hills 
on  either  side  beginning  to  assume  the  name  and  aspect  of  mountains ; 
and  just  beyond  Smith's  Ferry  the  train  passes  between  Mt.  Tom  (on 
the  left)  and  Mt.  Holyoke  (on  the  right),  and  stops  at  Northampton 
(Mansion  House  and  The  Norwood)^  which  is  said  to  be  the  most  beau- 
tiful village  in  America.  The  village  is  built  on  a  rising  grade  about  a 
mile  W.  of  the  river.  Its  streets  are  laid  out  with  picturesque  irregu- 
larity, and  abound  in  shade-trees  of  venerable  age  and  noble  size ; 
among  them  is  Edwards' s  Elm^  so  named  after  the  celebrated  Jonathan 
Edwards.  Near  the  center  of  the  village  is  the  Smith  College  for 
Women,  founded  by  Miss  Sophia  Smith,  of  Hatfield,  and  endowed  with 
a  fund  of  about  $500,000.  A  large  art-gallery,  filled  with  choice  paint- 
ings and  statuary,  the  gift  of  a  wealthy  citizen,  a  large  scientific  build- 
ing, a  gymnasium,  and  a  music-hall,  are  connected  with  the  college. 
The  free  Public  Library  (with  20,000  volumes)  is  lodged  in  Ifemorial 
Hcdl,  erected  in  memory  of  the  men  of  Northampton  who  fell  during  the 
civil  war.  On  an  eminence  W.  of  the  village  is  Round  Hill,  where  the 
historian  George  Bancroft  and  Joseph  G.  Cogswell  once  had  a  boys' 
school.  On  the  same  hill  is  the  Clarke  Institution  for  Deaf-Mtites 
(endowed  with  $300,000),  and  near  by  are  the  buildings  of  the  State 
Limatic  Asylum.  A  City  Hospital  has  just  been  erected  and  endowed 
with  $50,000.     The  Smith  Charities  annually  disburse  the  interest  of 


Route  30.]  NEW    YORK   TO    MONTREAL.  151 

11,250,000  for  benevolent  purpose^.  The  vicinity  of  Northampton  is 
the  most  beautiful  portion  of  the  Connecticut  Yalley,  and  attractive 
drives  lead  in  all  directions.  This  city  is  famous  as  an  educational 
center.  Within  a  radius  of  8  miles  are  located  Williston  Seminary  for 
Boys,  at  Easthampton;  Amherst  and  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural 
Colleges  at  Amherst ;  Smith  Academy,  at  Hatfield ;  and  Mt.  Holyoke 
Seminary,  at  South  Hadley. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Northampton,  3  miles  distant, 
is  *Mt.  Holyoke,  "the  gem  of  Massachusetts  mountains."  It  can  be 
x^eached  by  private  conveyance,  crossing  the  river  at  Hockanum  Ferry, 
either  by  ascending  the  carriage-road  to  the  top  or  to  the  foot  of  the 
inclined  railway  (600  ft.  long)  by  which  passengers  are  carried  up  the 
steepest  part  of  the  mountain.  On  the  summit,  1,120  ft.  above  the 
sea,  stand  the  Prospect  House  and  an  observatory.  The  view  from  the 
Prospect  House  has  been  often  pronounced  by  tourists  the  finest  in 
America.  Leeds  is  a  suburb  of  Northampton,  with  silk  and  other 
manufactures. 

The  view  from  Prospect  House  embraces  10  mountains  in  4  States,  and 
about  40  villages.  "  On  the  W.,  and  a  little  elevated  above  the  general  level, 
the  eye  turns  with  delight  to  the  populous  village  of  JSTorthampton.  exhibiting 
in  its  public  edifices  and  private  dwellings  an  unusual  degree  of  elegance.  A 
little  more  to  the  right  the  quiet  and  substantial  villages"  of  Hadley  and  Hat- 
field ;  and  still  farther  E..  and  more  distant,  Amherst,  with  its  colleges,  observ- 
atory, cabinet,  and  academy,  on  a  commanding  eminence,  form  pleasant  rest- 
ing-places for  the  eye.  Facing  the  S.  W..  the  observer  has  before  him.  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  ridge  called  Mt.  Tom.  rising  200  ft.  higher  than 
Holyoke,  and  dividing  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  longitudinally.  The 
western  branch  of  this  valley  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Hoosac  range  of 
mountains,  which,  as  seen  from  Holyoke,  rises  ridge  above  ridge  for  more  than 
20  miles,  checkered  with  cultivated  fields  and  forests,  and  not  unfrequently  en- 
livened by  villages  and  church-spires.  In  the  N.  W.,  Graylock  may  be  seen 
peering  above  the  Hoosic  ;  and.  still  farther  IvT.,  severalof  the  Green  Mountains, 
in  Vermont,  shoot  up  beyond  the  region  of  the  clouds  in  imposing  grandeur. 
Ahttletothe  S.  of  W.,  the  beautiful  outline  of  Mt.  Everett  is  often  visible. 
Nearer  at  hand,  and  in  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut,  the  insulated  Sugar-Loaf 
and  Mt.  Toby  present  their  fantastic  outlines,  while  far  in  the  JST.  E.  ascends  in 
dim  and  misty  grandeur  the  cloud-capped  Monadnock." 

Mt.  Tom  is  about  5  miles  S.  of  Northampton,  on  the  same  side 
of  the  river.  It  is  200  ft.  higher  than  Mt.  Holyoke,  but  is  compara- 
tively seldom  visited  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  the  ascent. 
Mt.  Nonotuck.,  the  northern  peak  of  the  Mt.  Tom  range,  is  easily 
reached  from  the  Mt.  Tom  Station.  On  its  summit  is  a  well-kept 
hotel,  and  the  view  is  nearly  if  not  quite  equal  to  that  from  Mt.  Hol- 
yoke. 

About  a  mile  beyond  Northampton  the  train  passes  in  sight  of 
Hadley,  a  venerable  and  interesting  old  village,  lying  in  the  Great 
Bend  of  the  Connecticut,  which  here  makes  a  detour  of  7  miles  in  order 
to  accomplish  a  mile  of  direct  distance.  Here  the  regicides,  Goffe  and 
Whalley,  were  long  concealed.  Hadley  is  connected  with  Northampton  by 
a  bridge  across  the  river.  Here  w^e  take  our  last  view  of  the  river  until 
South  Yernon  is  reached,  33  miles  distant.  Fi-om  S.  Deerfield  (1 1  miles 
from  Northampton)  a  carriage-road  leads  to  the  Mountain  House  on  the 
summit   of    Sugar-Loaf  Mountain^  a   conical  peak   of   red  sandstone 


152  NEW  YOEE  TO  MONTREAL.  [Route  30. 

rising  almost  perpendicularly  500  ft.  above  the  plain,  and  commanding 
broad  and  pleasing  views.  This  peak  is  said  to  have  been  the  head- 
quarters of  King  Philip  during  the  Indian  wars,  and  the  valley  which 
it  overlooks  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the  bloodiest  incidents  of  those 
cruel  wars.  On  the  battle-field  of  Bloody  Brook,  where  Captain  La- 
throp  with  80  youths,  "  the  flower  of  Essex  County,"  were  drawn  into 
an  ambuscade  and  slain,  a  monument  has  been  erected.  The  train 
passes  in  sight  of  the  monument,  and  in  5  miles  reaches  Deerfield^  a 
pretty  village  near  the  foot  of  Deerfield  Mountain^  which  is  700  ft. 
high,  and  commands  a  much-admired  view.  Stages  run  S.  E.  in  2  miles 
to  Sunderland^  whence  a  carriage-road  leads  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Toby, 
from  which  another  beautiful  view  may  be  had.  A  tower  63  ft.  high, 
containing  rooms  for  a  night's  lodging,  stands  on  the  crest. 

Nineteen  miles  above  Northampton  is  the  beautiful  village  of 
Greenfield  {American  House^  Mansion  Jlouse),  with  elm-shaded  streets 
and  garden-surrounded  villas.  The  hill-ranges  in  the  neighborhood 
open  fine  pictures  of  the  valleys  and  windings  of  the  great  river ;  and 
the  vicinity  abounds  in  delightful  drives.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  summer  resorts  in  the  valley.  Directly  E.,  on  the  Connecticut, 
is  Turner's  Falls,  the  site  of  an  immense  water-power,  second  only  to 
that  of  Holyoke ;  and  frequent  excursions  are  made  to  the  Coleraine, 
Shelburne,  and  Leyden  Goi'ges.  Just  beyond  Bernardston  (7  miles  from 
Greenfield)  the  river  again  comes  in  sight,  and  soon  after  the  train 
crosses  the  boundary-line  and  enters  the  State  of  Vermont.  From  Sorith 
Vernon  (14  miles  from  Greenfield)  the  summit  of  Mt.  Monadnock  (see 
p.  147)  may  be  seen  30  miles  E.  through  the. valley  of  the  Ashuelot. 
Here  the  Connecticut  River  R.  R.  ends,  and  the  Connecticut  River, 
Vermont  Valley  &  Sullivan  County  R.  R.  is  taken  to  Brattleboro,  43 
miles  from  Northampton  (Brooks  House),  a  handsomely-built  village  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  Connecticut  at  the  mouth  of  Whetstone  Creek.  The 
situation  is  very  fine,  and  the  scenery  and  drives  in  the  vicinity  are 
romantic  and  pleasing.  The  Vermont  Asylum  for  the  Insane  is  located 
here,  and  numerous  factories,  including  the  Estey  Cottage-Organ  Works, 
the  lai^gest  in  the  world.  In  the  cemetery  is  a  costly  monument  to  James 
risk,  Jr.,  and  from  Cemetery  Hill  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Connecti- 
cut Valley  and  of  Wantastiquet  and  Mine  Mts.  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river.  Across  the  river  (reached  by  bridge)  is  the  pretty  town  of 
Hinsdale,  New  Hampshire. 

Twenty-four  miles  above  Brattleboro  (several  small  stations  en  route) 
is  Bellows  Falls,  which  has  been  described  elsewhere  (see  p.  147). 
From  here  the  train  passes  N.  by  Charlestovm,  Clareniont,  and  Windsor. 
The  latter  is  a  pretty  highland  village,  with  considerable  manufactures 
and  trade,  and  surrounded  by  atti-active  scenery.  At  the  Windsor 
House  guides  and  horses  may  be  procured  for  the  ascent  of  Ascut- 
ney  Mountain,  in  5  miles  by  a  good  road.  Ascutney  (or  "Three 
Brothers")  is  an  isolated  peak,  3,163  ft.  high,  and  the  view  from  its 
summit  is  the  finest  and  most  extensive  of  any  in  Eastern  Vermont. 
At  White  River  Junction  (40  miles  from  Bellows  Falls,  154  from 
Boston,  and  260  from  New  York)  the  regular  Montreal  through  route 


Route  30.]  NEW   YORK   TO   MONTREAL.  153 

diverges  from  the  present  route  and  proceeds  via  Montpelier  and  St. 
Albans  (see  Koute  2*7).  Such  Montreal  passengers  as  prefer  it  can 
continue  on  present  route  to  either  Newport  or  Sherbrooke,  via  Boston 
&  Maine  K.  R. 

Just  beyond  the  Junction  the  train  crosses  White  River  and  passes 
in  4  miles  to  Norwich.,  whence  stages  run  in  f  mile  to  Hanovei^  N.  IT., 
the  seat  of  Dartmouth  College,  one  of  the  most  famous  institutions 
of  learning  in  America.  It  was  founded  in  1769  ;  and  Daniel  Webster, 
Rufus  Choate,  and  Chief- Justice  Chase  were  among  its  alumni.  The 
college  buildings  are  grouped  around  a  square  of  12  acres  in  the  center 
of  the  plain  on  which  the  village  stands.  The  most  notable  are  Dart- 
mouth Hall,  Reed  Hall,  Culver  Hall,  W^ilson  Hall  (containing  the 
library  of  more  than  '75,000  volumes),  and  the  new  Gymnasium.  The 
college  includes,  besides  the  hterary  department,  a  medical  school,  the 
Thayer  School  of  Civil  Engineering,  and  the  New  Hampshire  College  of 
Agriculture  and  the  Mechanic  Arts.  The  New  Hampshire  Agricultural 
Experiment  Station  is  also  connected  with  the  college.  Still  running  N. 
along  the  boundary  between  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire,  the  train 
passes  several  small  stations,  and  in  30  miles  reaches  Newbury,  one 
of  the  prettiest  towns  in  the  upper  Connecticut  Valley.  It  is  built  on  a 
terrace  100  ft.  above  the  river,  and  is  much  visited  on  account  of  its 
celebrated  Sulphur  Spring  and  its  beautiful  scenery.  The  great  Ox-Bow 
of  the  Connecticut  and  Mt.  Pulaski  are  both  in  this  township.  The  lat- 
ter is  easily  ascended  from  the  village,  and  affords  a  noble  view.  Wells 
River  (4  miles  above  Newbury)  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Maine  Cen- 
tral R.  R.  to  the  White  Mts.  (see  Route  20  h). 

The  scenery  now  becomes  more  rugged  and  impressive,  and  fine 
views  are  had  from  the  car-windows  on  either  side.  Numerous  small 
villages  are  passed,  and  then,  at  the  head  of  the  Connecticut  Valley, 
comes  St,  Johnsbury  {St.  Johnshiiry  House.,  Avenue  House).,  the  most 
important  and  attractive  town  in  this  portion  of  Vermont.  Many  of 
the  dwellings  are  elegant,  there  are  several  fine  churches,  and  the  Court- 
House  is  a  handsome  structui-e.  In  front  of  the  latter  is  a  Soldiers' 
Monument  designed  by  Larkin  G.  Mead.  The  Athemeum  contains  10,000 
volumes  and  an  art-gallery.  The  Fairbanks  Museum  of  Natural  Science., 
given  to  this  town  by  Colonel  Franklin  Fairbanks,  is  a  fine  building, 
with  an  endowment  ample,  with  judicious  usage,  to  provide  for  the 
maintenance  of  the  museum  for  all  time.      Its  cost  was  $250,000. 

iHere  the  Connecticut  Valley  ends,  and  the  train  passes  on  through  a 
picturesque  hill-country  toward  Lake  Memphremagog.  From  W.  Burke 
(16  miles  from  St.  Johnsbury)  carriages  run  in  6  miles  to  Willoughby 
Lake,  a  lovely  sheet  of  water  7  miles  long  and  from  ^  to  2  miles  wide, 
lying  between^Mt.  Annanance  (2,638  ft.  high)  and  Mt.  Hor  (1,500  ft. 
high),  and  teeming  with  muscalonge  and  trout.  A  good  hotel  stands 
on  the  lake-shore,  whence  a  bridle-path  leads  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  An- 
nanance, the  view  from  which  is  extremely  fine.  Other  small  stations 
are  passed,  and  the  train  speedily  reaches  Newport  [Memphremagog 
House).,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Memphremagog.  The  village  is  built  on 
Pickerel  Point,  and  contains  1,6*73  inhabitants.     Prospect  Hill.,  just  S., 


154  KEW   YORK   TO   MONTREAL.  [Route  30. 

affords  a  fine  view  of  the  lake  and  surrounding  elevations ;  and  Jay  Peak 
(12  miles  W.,  4,018  ft.  high)  commands  a  view  which  includes  the 
Green  and  White  Mts.,  Lake  Champlain,  and  the  Adirondacks.  Pleasant 
excursions  are  to  Clyde  River  Falls  (2  miles),  Bea7'  Mountain  (7  miles), 
and  Bolton  Springs  (15  miles).     The  latter  are  in  Canada. 

Lake  Memphremagog. 

Lake  Memphremagog  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  30  miles  long  and 
2  to  4  miles  wide,  lying  partly  in  Vermont  and  partly  in  Canada.  Its 
shores  are  rock-bound  and  indented  with  beautiful  bays,  between  which 
jut  out  bold,  wooded  headlands,  backed  by  mountain-ranges.  Muscalonge, 
a  fish  peculiar  to  these  waters,  and  trout  are  taken  here  in  perfection.  A 
steamer  leaves  the  pier  at  Newport  every  morning  and  afternoon  for  Ma- 
gog, at  the  other  end  of  the  lake.  At  Magog  it  connects  with  the  Cen- 
tral Vermont  and  Canadian  Pacific  R.  Rs.,  connecting  with  the  main  lines 
from  Montreal  to  the  N.  W.  and  from  Quebec  to  the  N.  E.  Tourists  can 
thus  proceed  northward  without  returning  to  Newport.  In  ascending 
the  Lake,  Indian  Pointy  the  Tioin  Sisters,  and  Province  Island  are  passed 
within  a  few  miles  of  Newport.  E.  of  Province  Island,  and  near  the 
shore,  is  Tea-  Table  Island,  a  charming  i-ural  picnic  resort ;  and  on  the  W. 
shore  the  boundary-line  between  Vermont  and  Canada  strikes  the  lake. 
About  half-way  down  the  lake,  on  the  W.  side,  is  the  Mountain  House, 
nestling  in  a  lovely  nook  at  the  foot  of  *  Owl's  Head  (3, 270  ft.  high). 
A  footpath  leads  from  the  hotel  to  the  summit,  which  can  be  reached  in 
1  to  2  hours.  The  view  in  clear  weather  is  very  extensive,  including 
the  entire  length  of  Memphremagog,  the  White  Mountains,  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  Willoughby  Lake  and  Mountain,  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  the 
white  pinnacles  of  Montreal.  At  and  near  the  Mountain  House  are  the 
best  fishing-grounds  on  the  lake ;  and  Fitch'' s  Bay  and  Whetstoiie  Island, 
Mayoon  Point,  Round  and  Minnoio  Islands,  are  in  the  vicinity,  afford- 
ing pleasant  picnic  and  excursion  points  for  visitors  sojourning  there. 
Skhiner^s  Island  and  Cave,  said  to  have  been  the  haunt  of  Uriah  Skin- 
ner, "the  bold  smuggler  of  Magog,"  during  the  War  of  1812,  are  also 
near  by.  Balance  Rock,  on  the  S.  shore  of  Long  Island,  is  frequently 
visited.  The  E.  shore  of  the  lake,  in  this  vicinity,  is  much  improved 
and  adorned  with  some  handsome  summer  villas.  About  a  mile  N.  of 
the  hotel,  on  the  W.  side,  is  a  series  of  precipitous  cliffs  700  ft.  high, 
and  the  water  beneath  is  of  unfathomed  depth.  Mt.  Elephantis  (or 
Sugar-Loaf )  is  seen  to  advantage  from  Allen's  Landing ;  its  outline  is 
supposed  to  resemble  that  of  an  elephant's  head  and  back.  Concert 
Pond,  W.  of  Mt.  Elephantis,  abounds  in  brook-trout,  and  attracts  numer- 
ous visitors.  Georgetown,  20  miles  from  Newport  and  12  from  Magog, 
has  a  hotel  and  several  stores,  and  is  a  favorite  summer  resort  with  the 
Canadians.  Magog  is  a  small  hamlet  at  the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  where 
the  Memphremagog  discharges  its  waters  through  the  Magog  River  into 
the  St.  Francis.  There  is  excellent  trout-fishing  in  the  vicinity  of 
Magog ;  and  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Orford,  5  miles  W.,  and  reached 
by  carriage-road,  an  exceedingly  striking  outlook  is  obtained  over  the 
somber  and  far-stretching  Canadian  forests. 


Route  31.]        NEW    LONDON    TO    BEATTLEBOEO.  155 

From  K'e\^^ort  the  Canadian  Pacific  E.  E.  runs  N.  W.  to  Montreal  in  65  miles, 
passing  Eichford.  W.  Farnham,  and  St.  Johns.  This  road  forms  a  part  of  the 
Boston  &  Montreal  Air  L,ine,  which  follows  Eoute  27  to  White  Eiver 
Junction,  the  present  route  thence  to  Newport,  where  the  Canadian  Pacific  E.  E. 
is  taken.    The  total  distance  from  Boston  to  Montreal  by  this  route  is  314  mUes. 

Soon  after  leaving  Newport  an  arm  of  the  lake  is  crossed,  and  the 
train  speedily  passes  the  frontier  and  enters  Canada,  traversing  for 
many  miles  the  Eastern  Townships,  "  as  beautiful  a  tract  of  country 
perhaps  as  any  on  the  continent,  both  with  regard  to  mountain  and  lake 
scenery,  beautiful  rivers,  and  fertile  valleys."  Mmsawippi  (20  miles 
from  Newport)  is  near  the  lovely  and  fish-teeming  Lake  llassawippi^ 
and  beyond  this  the  train  follows  the  Massawippi  River  for  16  miles, 
reaching  Sherbrooke  (40  miles  from  Newport),  an  important  station 
on  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  The  route  from  Sherbrooke  to  Quebec  and 
Montreal  is  described  in  Route  26. 

31.  New  London  to  Brattieboro. 

Via  New  London  Northern  Div.  of  the  Central  Vt.  E.  E.    Distance,  121  miles. 

This  route  crosses  the  two  States  of  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts, 
and  forms  part  of  a  popular  through  route  from  New  York  to  the  north. 
New  Ijoudoa  is  described  in  Route  12.  It  is  connected  with  New 
York  by  the  Shore  Line  Route  and  by  the  Norwich  Line  of  steamers. 
The  present  route  runs  N.,  following  the  Thames  River  for  13  miles  to 
Norwich,  which  has  already  been  described  (see  p.  95).  A  seat  on 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  car  on  this  portion  of  the  route  Avill  afford 
some  pleasing  views.  Willimantic  (30  miles  from  New  London)  is  a 
busy  manufacturing  town  at  the  crossing  of  the  New  York  &  Boston 
Air  Line  route  (see  Route  13).  Bej^ond  Willimantic  the  train  follows 
the  Willimantic  River,  and  passing  several  small  stations  reaches 
Stafford,  celebrated  for  its  mineral  springs,  one  of  which  is  regarded 
as  one  of  the  best  chalybeate  springs  in  the  United  States.  The  Indians 
estimated  the  curative  properties  of  these  springs  very  highly,  and  the 
whites  have  used  them  for  moi^e  than  a  hundred  years.  The  springs 
and  a  large  hotel  (the  Stafford  Springs  House)  are  close  by  the  depot  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  track.     The  village  is  2  miles  distant. 

Ten  miles  beyond  Stafford  the  train  crosses  the  State  line  and  enters 
Massachusetts.  Monson  (61  miles  from  New  London)  is  the  first  station 
in  Massachusetts,  and  is  near  some  excellent  granite-quarries.  Palmer 
(65  miles)  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R.,  and  has  fine 
water-power  which  is  extensively  used  for  manufactories.  Stations : 
Barretfs  Junction  at  the  crossing  of  the  Athol  Branch  of  the  Boston  k 
Albany  R.  R.,  JBelchertomi  (^6  miles),  and  Amherst  (85  miles).  Just 
beyond  Belchertown  a  fine  view  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  and  Mt. 
Holyoke  appears  on  the  W.  of  the  road.  Amherst  (Amherst  House) 
is  charmingly  situated,  and  is  noted  for  its  college,  its  picturesque 
surroundings,  and  its  refined  and  cultivated  society.  It  is  irregu- 
larly built  upon  a  hill,  commanding  extensive  views,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  4,512.  Its  leading  interest  is  paper-manufacturing.  Grace 
Church   (Episcopal)  and   the   First  Congregational   are   fine   edifices. 


156  BOSTON   TO   PLYMOUTH.  [Route  32. 

Amherst  College  was  founded  in  1821,  and  is  one  of  the  lead- 
ing educational  institutions  of  New  England.  Its  buildings  occupy  an 
eminence  on  the  S.  side  of  the  village,  and  command  a  prospect  of 
exceeding  beauty.  The  college  collections  in  zoology,  botany,  geolog}', 
mineralogy,  etc.,  are  among  the  richest  in  the  country,  and  are  accessible 
to  visitors.  The  cabinet  of  minerals  collected  by  Charles  U.  Shepard  is 
of  great  value,  and  is  said  to  be  surpassed  only  by  those  of  the  British 
Museum  and  the  Imperial  Cabinet  at  Vienna;  and  the  collection  of 
20,000  specimens  of  fossil  tracks  of  birds,  beasts,  and  reptiles  is  with- 
out a  rival.  The  Memorial  Chapel  is  a  fine  building,  and  so  are  Walker 
and  Williston  Halls.  The  Masmchusetts  Agricultural  College  has  ex- 
tensive and  handsome  buildings  about  a  mile  N.  of  the  village  green, 
and  possesses,  besides  other  objects  of  interest,  the  Durfee  Plant-House, 
containing  many  rare  and  beautiful  plants.  Founded  in  1866,  this  in- 
stitution has  become  the  most  successful  agricultural  school  in  the  coun- 
try. Amherst  is  within  excursion  distance  (Y  miles)  of  Noi"thampton 
and  Mt.  Holyoke  (see  p.  151). 

Beyond  Amherst  the  scenery  is  very  pleasing,  and  may  be  enjoyed 
from  the  left-hand  side  of  the  cars.  From  Leverett  (90  miles)  there  is 
an  impressive  view  of  Mt.  Toby  (see  p.  151).  Millerh  Falls  (100  miles) 
is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.  (Route  S5).  N'orthfield  (109 
miles)  is  an  attractive  village,  and  the  last  station  in  Massachusetts. 
Just  beyond  it,  the  train  crosses  the  Connecticut  River,  affording  fine 
views  from  the  bridge,  and  passes  to  South  Ver7ion  (111  miles).  From 
this  point  the  route  is  the  same  as  that  described  in  Route  30,  and 
passes  on  to  the  White  Mts.,  the  Green  Mts.,  and  Canada. 

32.  Boston  to  Plymouth. 

Via  Old  Colony  E.  R.,  Kneeland  St.  Station.    Distance,  38  miles. 

From  Boston  the  route  passes  Bralntree  to  South  Braintree  (11 
miles),  and  thence  to  No7'th  Ahington  (18  miles).  The  next  station,  Ah- 
ington  (20  miles),  is  noted  for  its  shoe-factories.  A  short  branch  line 
runs  thence  in  7  miles  to  the  ancient  town  of  Bridgewater.  Beyond 
Abington  the  road  traverses  the  great  forest  and  lake  region  of  the  Old 
Colony,  skirts  the  W.  shore  of  Plymouth  Harbor,  and  stops  at  Plymouth. 

Plymouth  [Samoset  House)  is  a  flourishing  manufacturing  village 
of  7,314  inhabitants  on  Cape  Cod  Bay.  Its  interest  is  chiefly  historical, 
and  it  will  be  forever  famous  as  the  landing-place  of  the  Pilgrim  Fa- 
thers (Dec.  22,  1620),  and  as  the  site  of  the  first  settlement  made  in 
New  England.  *  Plymouth  Rock,  on  which  the  Pilgrims  first  land- 
ed, is  in  Water  St.,  and  is  covered  by  a  handsome  granite  canopy,  in  the 
attic  of  which  are  inclosed  the  bones  of  several  men  who  died  during  the 
first  year  of  the  settlement.  A  portion  of  the  rock  has  been  placed  in 
front  of  Pilgrim  Hall,  and  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence.  *  Pilgrim 
Hall  is  in  Court  St.,  and  contains  a  large  hall,  the  public  libi^ary,  por- 
traits and  busts,  and  many  interesting  relics  of  the  Mayflower  pilgrims 
and  other  early  settlers  of  Massachusetts.  Near  the  Hall  are  the  Coun- 
ty Court-House   and  House   of   Correction,  both  fine  buildings.     The 


Route  32.]  BOSTON    TO    PLYMOUTH.  157 

Town  Green  is  at  the  end  of  Main  St.  Ley  den  St.^  the  oldest  street  in 
New  England,  runs  E.  from  Town  Square  to  the  water.  The  *  Burying 
Hill,  where  some  of  the  Pilgrims  were  intended,  is  a  place  of  much 
interest.  It  contains  some  ancient  and  venerable  tombs,  and  commands 
a  wide  view.  CoIe\s  Hill^  W.  of  the  canopied  i^ock,  is  noted  as  the  spot 
where  nearly  half  the  Mayflower  pilgrims  w^ere  buried  the  first  winter ; 
but  no  trace  of  their  graves  remains.  The  National  Monument  to  the 
Pilgrims^  the  corner-stone  of  which  was  laid  Aug.  1,  1859,  stands  on  a 
high  hill  near  the  Samoset  House.  It  consists  of  a  granite  pedestal  40 
ft.  high,  surrounded  by  statues  20  ft.  high ;  and  surmounted  by  a  colos- 
sal granite  statue  of  "Faith,"  40  ft.  high.  The  environs  of  Plymouth 
are  very  attractive,  and  in  the  township  are  about  200  ponds,  one  of 
the  largest,  Billington  Sea,  being  stocked  with  fish.  It  is  about  2  miles 
from  the  village. 

In  returning,  after  leaving  Plymouth,  the  first  station  of  importance 
is  Kingston  (4  miles,  and  42  miles  from  Boston),  where  the  South  Shore 
branch  turns  to  the  north  along  the  line  of  the  coast.  Kingston  is 
connected  with  the  harbor  by  Jones  River,  and  is  a  pleasant  summer 
residence,  vvith  fine  drives  in  all  directions.  Six  mil-s  farther  brings 
us  to  Buxhury,  a  finely  situated  town  on  bay  and  harbor,  with  a  suc- 
cession of  beaches.  It  has  interesting  historical  associations,  and  this 
section  of  the  old  colony  was  allotted  to  John  Alden,  the  youngest  of 
the  Pilgrims.  An  old  house  of  his,  built  225  years  ago,  is  still  stand- 
ing. Marslifield  (34  miles  from  Boston)  was  the  home  of  Daniel  Web- 
ster, and  the  old  homestead  is  a  great  attraction  for  visitors.  The 
celebrated  "  Brant  Rock,"  a  noted  gunning  station,  is  in  the  immediate 
vicinity.  Then  Marsh-field  Center  and  Ead  Marshfeld  are  passed,  and 
the  quaint  old  shore  town  of  Scituate  is  reached.  The  shores  rise  into 
a  succession  of  four  sand-ciiffs,  and  form  landmarks  for  mariners  as 
well  as  objects  of  interest  in  scenery.  There  is  fine  bay-fishing,  with 
boating;  and  gunning  for  sea-fowl  in  the  vicinity.  Five  miles  beyond 
is  (Johasset  (22  miles  from  Boston),  the  summer  home  of  Robson, 
Crane,  and  other  actors,  and  where  Lawrence  Barrett  spent  his  vaca- 
tions. Near  by  is  the  noted  Minot  Ledge,  upon  which  is  built  one  of 
the  famous  lighthouses  of  the  world.  Passing  westward  Old  Colony 
House  is  I'eached,  where  a  branch  runs  N.  along  the  Kantasket  Beach  to 
Pemherton,  a  distance  of  4  miles.  The  beach  is  a  great  natural  break- 
water that  completely  protects  the  lower  Boston  Harbor.  Nantasket 
is  also  connected  wath  Boston  by  steamboat,  and  is  much  frequented 
during  summer  by  pleasure-seekers  from  the  metropolis.  Resuming 
the  main  line  we  pass  in  quick  succession  Hingham,  originally  settled 
in  1635,  and  where  the  oldest  occupied  church  in  the  L^nited  States  is, 
then  Weymouth  (12  miles  from  Boston),  where,  in  1623,  occurred  the 
attack  of  Miles  Standish  upon  the  assembled  Indian  chiefs ;  and  Brain- 
tree,  an  old  historic  town,  where  Thayer  Academy  is  situated.  Quincy, 
a  beautiful  town  of  16,723  inhabitants,  noteworthy  as  the  home  of  the 
Adams  and  Quincy  families,  is  reached,  and  eight  miles  farther,  after 
crossing  Neponset  River,  we  again  reach  Boston.  The  return  route  is 
some  seven  miles  longer  than  the  line  followed  in  going  to  Plymouth. 


158  BOSTON   TO   CAPE   COD.  {Uoute  33. 

33.  Boston  to  Cape  Cod. 

Via  Old  Colony  E.  E.  main  line,  Cape  Cod  Division.  Distance,  Boston  to 
Provincetown,  120  miles.    Fare,  $3. 

As  far  as  S.  Brcdniree.,  this  is  the  same  as  described  in  Route  31. 
The  next  station  is  Holbrook  (15  miles),  a  small  manufacturing  vil- 
lage, and  5  miles  farther  is  Brockton,  a  prosperous  town  of  27,294 
inhabitants,  with  extensive  factories  of  shoes,  furniture,  carriages,  etc. 
Bridgewater  is  27  miles  from  Boston,  and  is  the  site  of  extensive 
iron-foundries,  rolling-mills,  machine-shops,  and  bi'ick  -  yards.  Jhe 
Bridgewater  Iron -Works  are  among  the  largest  on  the  continent.  At 
Middlehoro  (36  miles)  the  Cape  Cod  Div.  of  the  Old  Colony  R.  R..  begins. 
Stations :  8.  Middlehoro  (42  miles),  Tremont  (45  miles),  Wareham  (49 
miles),  and  Buzzard''s  Bay  Station  (54  miles).  From  the  latter,  a  branch 
road  diverges  to  Wood's  Holl,  whence  steamers  run  to  Martha's  Vine- 
yard (see  Route  34).  The  present  route  continues  on  past  the  small 
stations  of  Boiirne  (58  miles),  Bournedale  (59  miles),  and  Sandioich 
(62  miles).  At  Sandwich  the  Cape  begins,  and  extends  E.  about  35 
miles,  with  a  width  rarely  exceeding  8  miles,  and  then  bends  N.,  and 
gradually  N.  W.,  extending  about  30  miles  farther.  The  curve  still  con- 
tinues around  to  the  W.,  S.,  and  E.,  inclosing  the  fine  landlocked  harbor 
of  Provincetown.  This  latter  portion  does  not  average  half  the  width 
of  the  former,  and  is  greatly  indented  by  bays  both  on  the  outer  and  in- 
ner sides. 

"The  ride  throughout  the  Cape,"  says  Samuel  Adams  Drake,  "affords 
the  most  impressive  example  of  the  tenacity  with  which  a  population  clings  to 
locality  that  has  ever  come  imder  my  observation.  To  one  accustomed  to  the 
fertile  shores  of  Narragansett  Bay  or  the  vaUey  of  the  Connecticut,  the  region 
between  Sandwich,  where  you  enter  upon  the  Cape,  and  Orleans,  where  you 
reach  the  bend  of  the  forearm,  is  bad  enough,  though  no  desert.  Beyond  this 
is  simply  a  wilderness  of  sand.  The  surface  of  the  country  about  Brewster 
and  Orleans  is  rolling  prairie,  barren,  yet  thinly  covered  with  an  appearance  of 
soil.  Stone-waEs  divide  the  fields,  but  from  here  down  the  Cape  you  will  sel- 
dom see  a  stone  of  any  size  in  going  30  miles.  .  .  .  Eastham,  Wellfleet,  and 
Truro  grow  more  and  more  forbidding,  as  you  approach  the  Ultima  Thule,  or 

land's  end It  was  something  to  conceive,  and  more  to  execute,  such  a 

tramp  as  Thoreau's  (from  Orleans  to  Provincetown  on  the  ocean  side  of  the 
Cape),  for  no  one  ought  to  attempt  it  who  can  not  rise  superior  to  his  surround- 
ings, and  shake  off  the  gloom  the  weird  and  v/idespread  desolateness  of  the 
landscape  inspires.  I  would  as  lief  have  marched  with  Napoleon  from  Acre,  by 
Mt.  Carmel,  through  the  moving  sands  of  Tentoura." 

Seven  miles  beyond  Sandwich  is  W.  Barnstahle^  whence  stages  run 
in  6  miles  to  Cotuit  Port^  on  the  S.  shore,  a  favorite  resort  of  sportsmen. 
Yarmouth  (75  miles)  is  near  a  camp-meeting  ground,  and  is  the  junction 
of  a  branch  road  which  runs  in  4  miles  to  Hyannis  on  the  S.  shore, 
which  is  becoming  a  popular  summer  resort.  Beyond  Yarmouth  are  the 
small  stations  of  S.  Yarmouth  (80  miles),  Harwich  (84  miles,  with 
branch  to  Chatham\  Brewster  (89  miles),  Eastham  (97  miles),  and  Well- 
jleet  (109  miles).  Near  Truro  (114  miles)  is  one  of  the  most  fatal 
beaches  on  the  New  England  coast ;  and  on  Clay  Pounds,  on  the  outer 
shore  of  Truro,  is  the  famous  Highland  Light^  200  ft.  above  high-water 
mark,  and  provided  with  Fresnel  lenses.     Six  miles  beyond  Truro  is 


Eoute  34.]     BOSTON  TO  maetha's  vhsteyaud.  159 

Provincetown,  a  thriving  fishing  village,  with  a  magnificent  land- 
locked harbor,  which  is  frequently  crowded  with  shipping  seeking  a 
haven  of  refuge.  Near  here  are  the  principal  cod  and  mackerel  fish- 
eries on  the  coast,  and  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  are  in  one  way  or  an- 
other connected  with  the  sea-going  business.  From  the  summit  of  High 
Pole  Hill  there  is  a  fine  view,  with  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  one  side  and 
Massachusetts  Bay  on  the  other.  Hace  Point  is  the  outermost  land  of 
the  Cape,  and  has  a  revolving  light  150  ft.  above  high  water.  It  is 
reached  from  Provincetown  by  a  walk  of  3  miles  across  the  sand-dunes. 
"  Standing  here,"  says  Mr.  Drake,  "  I  felt  as  if  I  had  not  lived  in  vain. 
I  was  as  near  Europe  as  my  legs  would  carry  me,  at  the  extreme  of  this 
withered  arm  with  a  town  in  the  hollow  of  its  hand.  For  centuries  the 
storms  have  beaten  upon  this  narrow  strip  of  sand,  behind  which  the 
commerce  of  a  State  lies  intrenched.  The  assault  is  unflagging,  the 
defense  obstinate.  Fresh  columns  are  always  forming  outside  for  the 
attack,  and  the  roll  of  ocean  is  forever  beating  the  charge.  Yet  the 
Cape  stands  fast,  and  will  not  budge." 

34.  Boston  to  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Nantucket. 

Via  Old  Colony  E.  E.  to  Wood's  Hell  (78  miles),  and  thence  by  steamer. 

From  Boston  to  JBiizzarcV s  Bay  Station  (54  miles)  this  route  is  the 
same  as  Route  33.  Beyond,  the  train  runs  along  the  shore  of  Buzzard's 
Bay,  passing  the  small  stations  of  Monument  Beach^  Bocasset,  and  B'al- 
mouth.  A  mile  S.  E.  of  the  latter  is  the  popular  summer  resort  of  Fal- 
mouth Heights  [Tower\s  Hotel),  a  line  of  high  and  picturesque  bluffs 
fronting  on  Vineyard  Sound,  with  a  good  beach  and  other  attractions. 
At  WoocVs  Holl  ('72  miles  from  Boston),  where  the  Marine  Biological 
Laboratory  Avas  founded  in  1888,  connection  is  made  with  the  steamer 
for  Martha's  Vineyard,  ^  miles  distant. 

Martha's  Vineyard. 

From  New  York  Martha's  Vineyard  is  reached  via  Fall  Elver  steamers  to 
Fall  Eiver  (Eoute  15),  thence  via  Fall  Eiver  Branch  of  Old  Colony  E.  E.  to  Neiv 
Bedford,  and  thence  by  a  steamboat  sail  of  30  miles  to  Cottage  City-  Total  dis- 
tance, 22.5  miles  ;  fare,  $4.  Another  route  is  by  steamer  to  FaU  Eiver,  as  be- 
fore, thence  by  Old  Colony  E.  E.  to  Wood's  Holl,  where  the  steamer  from  New 
Bedford  calls. 

Hotels. — The  Narragansetl,  Na^mikeags,  Pawnee,  Sea  Vietv,  and  Wesley 
are  the  leading  hotels.  Prices,  from  $2  to  $4  a  day.  Smaller  hotels,  in  the 
village  of  Oak  Blirffs,  are  the  Island,  the  Central,  and  the  Wesley. 

Martha's  Vineyard  is  an  island  20  miles  long  and  6  miles  in  average 
width,  lying  off  the  S.  coast  of  Massachusetts,  and  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  Vineyard  Sound.  Its  surface  is  generally  level,  though 
there  are  elevations  rising  to  the  height  of  150  ft.  above  the  sea.  The 
soil  is  generally  light,  and  a  great  part  of  the  surface  is  covered  with 
low  forests.  The  inhabitants,  of  whom  there  were  4,369  in  1890,  are 
chiefly  engaged  in  navigation  and  fishing.  Martha's  Vineyard  was  dis- 
covered by  Bartholomew  Gosnold  in  1602,  was  settled  by  Thomas 
Mayhew  in  1642,  and  suffered  much  from  the  British  during  the  Kevo- 


160  BOSTON    TO    MARTHA  S    VENEYAED.       [Route  3Jf. 

lutionary  War.     Of  late  years  it  has  become  noted  for  its  annual  camp- 
meetings  and  as  a  summer  resort. 

Near  the  Sea-View  Hotel  is  the  great  Methodist  *Cainp-. Meeting- 
Ground,  where  20,000  to  30,000  people  are  gathered  every  August. 
The  grounds  are  regularly  and  tastefully  laid  out,  and  comprise  a  taber- 
nacle capable  of  seating  5,000  persons.  E.  of  the  camp-ground,  on 
bluffs  30  ft.  high,  overlooking  the  sea,  the  village  of  Oak  Bluffs  was 
laid  out  in  1868,  and  has  become  a  popular  summer  resort;  besides  the 
hotels  named  above,  it  contains  numerous  cottages  of  summer  resi- 
dents. A  narrow-gauge  railway  from  Cottage  City  connects  Oak  Bluffs 
with  Edgartown  and  Katama,  and  the  Sea-Vieio  Boulevard^  an  admira- 
ble drive  along  the  coast,  runs  to  the  same  places.  Edgartown 
( Ocean-  View  Hotel  and  Sea-Side  House)  is  a  neat  village,  6  miles  E.  of 
Oak  Bluffs,  containing  several  churches,  a  town-hall,  the  county  build- 
ings, and  the  Martha's  Vineyard  National  Bank.  Its  harbor  is  well 
sheltered,  and  at  the  entrance  is  a  lighthouse  showing  a  fixed  light 
50  ft.  above  the  sea,  erected  on  a  pier  1,000  ft.  long.  Beyond  Edgar- 
town the  railway  and  the  boulevard  extend  to  Katama  Bay,  noted 
for  its  clam-bakes  and  for  its  attractive  scenery.  The  Mattakesett 
Lodge  here  is  one  of  the  best  hotels  on  the  island.  A  short  distance  W. 
of  Oak  Bluffs  is  the  East  Chop  Light,  whence  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of 
Vineyard  Haven,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  harbors  on  the  coast. 
*Gayhead,  the  westerly  end  of  Martha's  Vineyard  (20  miles  from 
Oak  Bluffs),  is  a  spot  well  worth  the  attention  of  the  visitor.  It 
was  pronounced  by  Edward  Hitchcock  one  of  the  most  remarkable  geo- 
logical formations  in  America. 

Nantucket, 

Nantucket  is  about  30  miles  from  Martha's  Vineyard,  whence  it  is 
reached  by  steamer  twice  a  day  during  the  summer  and  once  in  winter 
from  Wood's  Holl.  The  island  is  of  an  irregular  triangular  form,  about 
16  miles  long  from  E=  to  W.,  and  for  the  most  part  from  3  to  4  miles 
wide.  It  has  a  level  surface  in  the  S.,  and  in  the  N.  is  slightly  hilly. 
The  soil  is  light,  and,  with  the  exception  of  some  low  pines  and  the 
shade-trees  in  the  town,  the  island  is  treeless.  Farming  and  fishing  are 
the  chief  occupations  of  the  inhabitants  (of  whom  there  were  3,268  in 
1890),  the  surrounding  waters  abounding  in  fish  of  various  kinds.  The 
climate  in  summer  is  remarkably  cool,  and  the  island  is  fast  becoming 
a  favorite  summer  resort. 

The  town  of  Nantucket  {Bay-View,  Nantucket,  Ocean  House, 
Springfield  Hotel,  Surf  side  House,  and  Veranda  Hotel),  on  the  X.  of  the 
island,  was  at  one  time  the  chief  whaling-port  of  the  world,  and  in- 
creased rapidly  in  size  and  prosperity  until  1846,  when  it  was  visited  by 
a  severe  conflagration  that  destroyed  nearly  a  million  dollars'  worth  of 
property.  After  this  the  whale-fishery,  and  with  it  the  prosperity  of  the 
town,  rapidly  declined ;  and  until  the  stream  of  summer  visitors  began 
to  flow  in,  it  had  a  distinct  air  of  decrepitude  and  decay.  It  is  pictur- 
esquely situated,  and  presents  an  appearance  from  the  water  which  is 
hardly  confirmed  on  closer  scrunity.     The  streets  are  cleanly,  and,  hav- 


Route  35.]  BOSTON    TO    HOOSAC    TUNNEL.  161 

ing  trees  and  flower-gardens,  are  often  pretty  and  cheerful.  The  roofs 
of  many  houses  are  surmounted  by  a  railed  platform,  a  reminder  of  old 
whaling-times.  The  town  contains  9  churches,  a  town-hall,  a  national 
bank,  a  savings-bank,  5  public  halls,  a  custom-house,  and  several  good 
public  schools.  Among  the  schools  is  the  celebrated  Coffin  School, 
founded  and  endowed  by  Sir  Isaac  Coffin,  Bart.  In  the  Athe7iceiim  is  a 
public  library  of  5,000  volumes,  and  some  interesting  relics  of  whales 
and  whaling.  Three  excursions  must  be  made  from  the  town  before 
one  can  say  that  he  has  "  seen  Nantucket."  One  is  to  a  cliff  at  the 
Xorth  Shore  whence  a  wide  view  is  had ;  and  another  to  the  beaches  of 
the  South  Shore,  where  the  waves  roll  in  grandly  after  a  storm.  The 
third  is  Siasccnset  (pronounced  Sconset),  a  quaint  fishing  hamlet  on 
the  S.  E.  shore  of  the  island,  11  miles  from  Nantucket,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  railroad.  It  contains  Atlantic  House  and  Ocean-View 
Hotel^  and  a  number  of  cottages  for  summer  residents.  On  Sankoty 
Head^  1  mile  N.  of  Siasconset,  there  is  a  lighthouse,  and  from  the  emi- 
nen<-e  on  which  it  stands  the  Atlantic  is  visible  on  all  sides  of  the  island. 

35.   Boston  to  Hoosac  Tunnel  and  Troy. 

Via  Fitchburg  E.  E.    Distance,  to  Hoosac  Tunnel,  135  miles  ;   to  North 
Adams,  143  miles  ;  to  Troy,  191  miles. 

As  far  as  and  including  Fitchburg  (50  miles),  this  route  has  been 
described  in  Route  29.  (There  is  another  division  of  the  Fitchburg 
R.  R.,  passing  through  Framiugham,  S.  Marlboro,  and  Clinton,  by  which 
the  distance  from  Boston  to  Fitchburg  is  only  3Y  miles.)  Soon  after 
leaving  Fitchburg  the  train  reaches  Wachusett^  whence  stages  run  in 
6  miles  to  Mt.  Wachusett,  from  the  summit  of  which  (2,018  ft.  high) 
there  is  one  of  the  grandest  views  to  be  obtained  in  all  New  England. 
It  is  said  that  300  villages  and  portions  of  6  States  are  included  in  it. 
Stations,  Ashburnham  (60  miles),  Gardner  (65  miles),  BalduinviUe  (Yl 
miles),  and  Athol  (82  miles).  Miller's  Falls  (97  miles),  where  the  Con- 
necticut and  Deerfield  Rivers  are  crossed,  and  the  beautiful  village 
of  Greenfield  (105  miles)  have  been  described  in  Route  30.  Beyond 
iGreenfield  the  route  follows  the  Deerfield  River,  passing  amid  extremely 
^picturesque  scenery,  the  most  striking  feature  of  which  is  the  narrow 
and  romantic  *  Deerfield  Goi-ge,  traversed  just  before  reaching  the  vil- 
lage of  Shelhurne  Fcdls  (119  miles).  At  Shelburne  Falls  the  Deerfield 
River  makes  a  descent  of  150  ft.  in  a  few  hundred  yards,  roaring  through 
a  nari'ow  channel.  The  scenery  beyond  is  very  charming,  and  at  Chxirle- 
mont  (128  miles)  the  Hoosac  Mountains  are  in  full  view.  Passing  now  for 
8  miles  through  a  savage,  rugged,  and  desolate  region,  the  train  stops  for 
a  moment  at  Hoosac  Tunnel  Station,  and  then  plunges  into  the  profound 
darkness  of  the  tunnel.  The  *  Hoosac  Tnnnel  is  the  longest  in  the 
United  States,  and  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  achievements  of  mod- 
ern engineering.  It  pierces  the  solid  micaceous  slate  of  the  Hoosac 
Mountain,  is  4f  miles  long,  was  nearly  20  years  in  constructing  (1855 
to  1874),  and  cost  the  State  of  Massachusetts  about  $16,000,000.  The 
cut-stone  fa9ade  of  the  entrance  is  worthy  of  notice. 
11 


162  ALBANY   TO   EUTLAND.  [Boute  37. 

Just  beyond  the  W.  end  of  tlie  tunnel  is  the  town  of  N'.  Adams,  and  the 
route  continues  through  Williamstown  (see  p.  169),  Po\\Tial,  Petersburg,  Hoosic 
Falls,  Johnsonville,  and  Lansingburg  to  Troy  (in  48  miles).  This  forms  a 
through  route  between  Boston  and  the  West,  to  obtain  which  the  vast  expendi- 
tures for  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  were  incurred. 

36.  Boston  to  Albany  and  the  West. 

Via  Boston  &  Albany  E.  E.    Distance  to  Albany,  202  miles. 

This  is  the  most  popular  passenger  route  from  Boston  to  the 
West,  and  traverses  some  of  the  most  attractive  portions  of  New  Eng- 
land. The  Boston  &  Albany  E.  R.  was  among  the  first  constructed  in 
America,  being  completed  to  Worcester  in  1835,  to  Springfield  in  1839, 
and  to  Albany  in  1842.  Its  completion  was  the  occasion  of  festivities 
in  both  Boston  and  Albany,  the  memory  of  which  has  not  yet  died  out. 
As  far  as  Springfield  (99  miles)  the  route  is  the  same  as  Route  11 
taken  in  reverse.  Immediately  after  leaving  Springfield  the  train 
crosses  the  Connecticut  River  on  a  long  bridge,  and  follows  the  Agawam 
River  to  Westfield,  a  beautiful  town  of  9,805  inhabitants,  encircled 
with  hills.  In  the  center  of  the  village  is  a  neat  public  square,  sur- 
rounded by  churches  and  other  buildings,  and  adorned  with  a  soldiers' 
monument.  The  State  Normal  School  here  has  a  wide  reputation.  The 
New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  R.  R.  crosses  here.  Beyond  West- 
field  the  route  leads  up  Westfield  River,  amid  picturesque  scenery, 
which  rapidly  becomes  mountainous.  At  Chester  (2Y  miles  from  Spring- 
field) the  grades  become  very  heavy,  and  the  train  enters  the  Berkshire 
hills,  which  are  described  in  Route  38.  The  scenery  along  all  this  por- 
tion of  the  route  is  extremely  fine,  and  at  Summit  the  track  is  1,211  ft. 
above  the  sea.  Becket,  Washington,  and  Hinsdale  are  high-perched 
mountain  towns ;  and  Dalton  (146  miles  from  Boston)  is  a  manufactur- 
ing village  on  the  W.  side  of  the  range  of  hills  that  has  just  been 
crossed.  Five  miles  beyond  Dalton,  in  the  heart  of  the  Berkshire  hills, 
is  Pittsfield  (described  in  Route  38).  Three  miles  beyond  Pittsfield 
is  Shaker  Village,  one  of  the  settlements  of  the  curious  sect  of  Shakers ; 
and  a  short  distance  N.  of  the  village  is  the  mountain  where,  according 
to  tradition,  the  Shakers  hunted  Satan  through  a  long  summer  night, 
and  finally  killed  and  buried  him.  Eleven  miles  beyond  Pittsfield  the 
road  crosses  the  State  line  and  enters  New  York  State,  running  by 
Chatham,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Harlem  Div.  of  the  New 
York  Central  and  Hudson  River  R.  R.,  Kinderhook,  and  Schodack  to 
G-reenbush,  whence  the  train  crosses  a  fine  bridge  and  enters  Albany 
(see  p.  72). 

37.  Albany  to  Rutland. 

a.    Via  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R.     Distance,  100  miles. 

From  Albany  to  Wliitehall  (18  miles)  this  route  is  described  in 
Route  44.  Beyond  Whitehall  the  line  runs  N.  E.  to  Fairhaven  (86 
miles),  where  there  are  extensive  slate-quarries,  and  Hydeville  (88  miles), 
a  pretty  village  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Bomoseen,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
8  miles  long  and  1  to  1^  wide,  famed  for  its  boating  and  fishing.    Three 


Route  38.]  THE   HOtJSATOKIC   VALLEY.  163 

miles  farther  is  Castleton  {Lake  Bomoseen  House)^  a  neatly-built  vil- 
lage, situated  on  a  plain  near  the  Castleton  River,  and  surrounded  by 
pleasing  scenery.  The  township  in  which  it  is  located  is  noted  for  its 
slate-stone,  which  is  extensively  quarried,  and  from  which  is  made  an 
imitation  of  marble  "so  perfect  that  it  challenges  the  closest  scrutiny." 
There  are  5  churches  in  the  village  and  a  State  Normal  School.  W. 
Rutland  (97  miles)  is  noted  for  its  vast  marble-works,  and  stages  run 
thence  in  4  miles  to  Clarendon  Springs  (see  p.  148).  Rutland  (101 
miles)  has  already  been  described  (see  p.  14'7). 

h.  Via  Delaioare  and  Hudson  R.  R.  {Rutland  S  Washington  Division). 
Distance.^  98  miles. 
As  far  as  Eagle  Bridge  (23  miles)  this  route  follows  the  Fitchburg 
E.  R.,  passing  Laiis'mghurg.,  a  thriving  manufacturing  village  on  the 
Hudson  River,  and  Schaghticoke  (13  miles),  a  manufacturing  village  on 
the  Hoosic  River,  which  furnishes  a  fine  water-power.  Salem  (41  miles) 
is  a  pretty  village  on  White  Creek.  From  this  station  the  road  makes 
a  detour  into  Vermont,  and  runs  near  the  boundary  for  some  miles 
until  at  Granville  (60  miles)  it  again  enters  New  York,  finally  leaving 
the  State  near  Poultney  (68  miles).  Poultney  is  a  beautiful  village, 
noted  for  its  coolness  in  summer,  and  then  much  resorted  to.  It  lies 
amid  varied  and  picturesque  scenery,  and  the  walks  and  drives  in  the 
vicinity  are  very  attractive.  Among  its  many  pleasant  excursions  are 
those  to  the  Gorge,  the  Bowl,  Carter'' s  Falls,  Lake  Bomoseen  (see  p.  162), 
and  Lake  St.  Catherine  (or  Austin).  The  latter  is  3  miles  from  Poult- 
ney, is  about  6  miles  long,  and  has  a  summer  hotel  at  its  lower  end. 
Daily  stages  run  in  eight  miles  to  Middletown  Springs  (Jlontvert 
Hotel),  one  of  the  most  famous  mineral  springs  in  Vermont.  The  waters 
are  impregnatea  with  iron,  and  are  an  excellent  tonic.  Two  miles  be- 
yond Poultney  the  present  route  connects  with  the  preceding  one  at 
Castleton,  and  proceeds  to  Rutland  in  12  miles. 

38.  The  Housatonic  Valley  and  the  Berkshire  Hills. 

The  point  of  departure  for  the  trip  up  the  Housatonic  is  Bridgeport. 
Conn.,  which  is  reached  from  New  York  via  Eoute  11  (fare,  $1.15)  or  by  steam- 
boat daily  from  Pier  35  East  Eiver  (fare,  50c.).  From  Bridgeport  to  Pittsiield  the 
distance  is  111  miles,  and  the  fare  $3.00.  But  the  through  fare  from  New  York 
to  Pittsfleld  is  only  |3.40. 

The  Housatonic  River  rises  in  Berkshire  Co.,  Massachusetts,  and 
flowing  S.  enters  the  State  of  Connecticut,  where,  after  winding  through 
Litchfield  Co.,  and  forming  the  boundary  between  New  Haven  and 
Fairfield  Counties,  it  meets  the  tide-water  at  Derby,  about  14  miles 
from  Long  Island  Sound.  The  sources  of  the  stream  are  more  than 
1,200  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  in  its  course  of  150  miles 
it  oifers  some  exquisitely  beautiful  scenery.  The  railway  runs  along  its 
bank  for  about  75  miles.  "Of  all  the  railroads  near  New  York,"  says 
Mr.  Beecher  in  his  "Star  Papers,"  "none  can  compare,  for  beauty  of 
scenery,  with  that  from  Newtown  up  to  Pittsfield,  but  especially  from 
New  Milford  to  Lenox." 


164  THE    HOUS ATONIC   VALLEY.  [Route  38. 

Bridgeport,  our  point  of  departure,  has  already  been  described 
(see  p.  YY).  For  some  miles  after  leaving  Bridgeport  the  route  traverses 
a  level  and  thinly-settled  country,  destitute  of  picturesque  features  ;  but 
at  Newtovm  (19  miles)  the  hills  begin  to  show  mountainous  symptoms, 
and  the  traveler  obtains  glimpses  of  forest-clad  hills  and  lovely  inter- 
vales. New  Milford  (35  miles)  is  a  large  and  beautiful  village,  with 
broad,  well-shaded  streets,  and  surrounded  by  delightful  scenery.  It 
has  some  popularity  as  a  summer  resort,  and  is  also  the  site  of  several 
manufactories.  From  New  Milford  to  the  terminus  of  the  road,  the 
scenery  is  ever  changing  and  of  rare  beauty.  Kent  (48  miles,  Elmore 
House)  is  a  quiet  little  village,  with  the  river  running  through  it,  situ- 
ated in  the  midst  of  the  charming  Kent  Plains.  Hatch  and  Swift  Lakes 
or  Ponds  are  visible  from  the  cars ;  and  on  a  lofty  plateau,  W.  of  Kent, 
are  the  Spectacle  Ponds^  a  pair  of  twin  lakelets,  of  oval  shape,  fringed 
by  dense  woods  and  connected  by  a  narrow  strait.  From  the  lofty  hill 
just  above  them  the  view  is  grand.  Cornioall  Bridge  (5*7  miles)  is 
a  small  manufacturing  village  surrounded  by  exquisite  scenery.  Daily 
stages  run  thence  to  Litchfield.,  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  village  in 
Connecticut,  and  to  Shm^on.  From  W.  Cornwall  (61  miles)  stages  run 
to  Goshen.,  a  pretty  highland  town,  celebrated  for  its  butter  and  cheese. 
Falls  Village  (67  miles)  is  at  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Housatonic, 
which  are  the  largest  and  finest  in  the  State,  descending  60  ft.  over  a 
ledge  of  limestone.  About  2  miles  N.  W.  of  the  village  is  Mt.  Prospect 
(reached  by  carriage-road),  from  the  summit  of  which  there  is  a  fine 
view  over  the  valley  and  the  outlying  villages.  At  the  foot  of  this  hill 
is  a  deep  fissure  in  the  rocks,  known  as  the  Wolf's  Den. 

In  his  "Star  Papers,"  Mr.  Beecher  writes  lovingly  of  all  this  region, 
and  we  quote  a  paragraph  which  may  prove  useful  to  the  tourist:  "If 
one  has  not  the  leisure  for  detailed  exploration,  and  can  spend  but  a 
week,  let  him  begin,  say,  at  Sharon  (reached  by  stage  from  Cornwall 
Bridge  on  the  Berkshire  Div.  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford 
R.  R.)  or  at  Salisbury  (reached  from  Canaan  by  the  Central  New  Eng- 
land &  Western  R.  R.,  or  by  stage  from  Falls  Village).  On  either  side 
to  the  E.  and  to  the  W.  ever-varpng  mountain-forms  frame  the  horizon. 
There  is  a  constant  succession  of  hills  swelling  into  mountains,  and  of 
mountains  sinking  into  hills.  The  hues  of  green  in  the  trees,  in  grasses, 
and  in  various  harvests,  are  endlessly  contrasted.  There  are  no  forests 
so  beautiful  as  those  made  up  of  both  evergreens  and  deciduous  ti-ees. 
At  Salisbury,  you  come  under  the  shadow  of  the  Taconic  range.  Here 
you  may  well  spend  a  week,  for  the  sake  of  the  rides  and  the  objects 
of  curiosity.  Four  miles  to  the  E.  are  the  Falls  of  the  Housatonic,  very 
beautiful  and  worthy  of  much  longer  study  than  they  usually  get.  .  .  . 
On  the  W.  of  Salisbury  you  ascend  Mt.  Riga  to  Bald  Peak.,  thence  to 
Brace  Motmtain,  thence  to  the  Dome.,  thence  to  that  gi'and  ravine  and 
its  wild  water,  Bash-Bish,  a  ride  in  all  of  about  18  miles,  and  wholly 
along  the  mountain-bowl.  On  the  E.  side  of  this  range,  and  about  4 
miles  from  Salisbury,  is  Sage^s  Ravine.^  which  is  the  antithesis  of  Bash- 
Bish.  Sage's  Ravine,  not  without  grandeur,  has  its  principal  attraction 
in  its  beauty ;  Bash-Bish,  far  from  destitute  of  beauty,  is  yet  most  re- 


Route  S8.'\  THE    BERKSHIRE    HILLS.  165 

markable  for  grandeur.  I  would  willingly  make  the  journey  once  a 
month  to  see  either  of  them.  Just  beyond  Sage's  Ravine,  very  beauti- 
ful falls  may  be  seen  just  after  heavy  rains,  which  have  been  named 
Nortori's  Falls.  Besides  these  and  other  mountain  scenery,  there  are 
the  Tivin  Lakes  on  the  N.  of  Salisbury,  and  the  two  lakes  on  the  S., 
around  which  the  rides  are  extremely  beautiful." 

Just  beyond  Canaan  (73  miles),  a  pretty  village  at  the  intersection 
of  the  Berkshire  Div.  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  and 
Central  New  England  &  Western  R.  Rs.,  the  train  crosses  the  boundary- 
line  of  Massachusetts  and  enters  the  renowned 

Berkshire  Hills, 

"a  region  not  surpassed  in  picturesque  loveliness,  throughout  its  whole 
longitude  of  50  miles  and  its  average  latitude  of  20  miles,  by  any  equal 
area  in  New  England,  and  perhaps  not  in  all  this  Western  world." 
From  Sheffield  (138  miles),  a  quiet  town  at  the  base  of  the  Taconic 
Mountains,  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington  is  easily  made  and  affords  a 
far-viewing  prospect.  This  mountain  was  once  a  part  of  the  great 
Livingston  Manor,  and  its  summit  overlooks  the  rich  and  lordly  domain 
once  included  in  that  now  forgotten  name.  Six  miles  above  SheflBeld  is 
Great  Harrington  {Berkshire  House^  Collins  House.,  Commercial 
House).,  of  which  Mr.  Beecher  says  that  it  "  is  one  of  those  places  which 
one  never  enters  without  wishing  never  to  leave  it.  It  rests  beneath  the 
branches  of  great  numbers  of  the  stateliest  elms.  It  is  a  place  to  be 
desireJ  as  a  summer  residence."  The  Congregational  and  Episcopal 
Churches,  and  the  High  School,  are  handsome  buildings,  and  there  are 
several  fine  villas  in  the  outskirts.  The  Congregational  Church,  the 
gift  of  Mrs.  Mark  Hopkins,  is  one  of  the  finest  country  churches  in  Ncav 
England,  and  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  upward  of  $150,000.  South 
Egremont.,  4  miles  S.  E.  of  Great  Barrington,  is  reached  by  daily  stage 
from  Great  Barrington.  The  Mt.  Everett  House  here  is  an  excellent 
summer  hotel,  situated  just  under  the  lofty  crest  of  Mt.  Everett,  whose 
summit  may  be  scaled  by  way  of  "  its  vast,  uncultivated  slope,  to  a 
height  of  2,000  ft."  From  the  summit  the  view  is  exceedingly  fine, 
taking  in  half  the  whole  stretch  of  the  Housatonic  Valley,  the  Catskills, 
and  the  Hudson.  The  trout-fishing  in  the  vicinity  of  S.  Egremont  is 
exceptionally  good.  The  Berkshire  Soda  Springs  are  about  3  miles  S. 
E.  of  Great  Barrington,  amid  v.ild  and  romantic  scenery.  "  Next  to  the 
north  of  Great  BaiTington,"  says  Mr.  Beecher,  "is  Stockbridge, 
famed  for  its  meadow-elms,  for  the  picturesque  beauty  adjacent,  for 
the  quiet  beauty  of  a  village  which  sleeps  along  a  level  plain  just  under 
the  rim  of  hills.  If  you  wish  to  be  filled  and  satisfied  with  the  serenest 
delight,  ride  to  the  summit  of  this  encircling  hill-ridge,  in  a  summer's 
afternoon,  while  the  sun  is  but  an  hour  high.  The  Housatonic  winds 
in  great  circuits  all  through  the  valley,  carrying  willows  and  alders  with 
it  wherever  it  goes.  The  horizon  on  every  side  is  piled  and  terraced 
with  mountains.  Abrupt  and  isolated  mountains  bolt  up  here  and  there 
over  the  whole  stretch  of  plain,  covered  with  evergreens."  The  distance 
by  railway  from  Great  Barrington  to  Stockbridge  is  8  miles,  but  it  is 


166  THE   BERKSHIEE    HILLS.  [Route  38. 

only  6^  miles  by  the  highway,  and  this  latter  should  be  chosen,  if  the 
tourist  have  time.  The  entire  ride  is  through  the  most  delightful 
scenery,  and  about  half-way  is  Monument  Ifotmtccin,  one  of  the  special 
attractions  of  the  vicinity.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  very  fine,  re- 
sembling that  from  Mt.  Everett.  Stockbridge  contains  many  handsome 
villa  residences.  The  Stockbridge  House  is  an  excellent  hotel,  open  only 
during  the  summer,  and  Edwards  Hall^  the  house  in  which  Jonathan  Ed- 
wards wrote  his  treatise  on  "  The  Freedom  of  the  Will,"  is  also  open  as 
a  summer  hotel.  Both  are  situated  on  the  main  street  of  the  village,  and 
near  by  are  an  elegant  Italian  fountain,  a  fine  soldiers'  monument,  and 
a  memorial  monument  to  Jonathan  Ed^vards.  Among  the  most  interest- 
ing features  of  Stockbridge  are  the  old  burying-grouud  of  the  Mohegan 
Indians,  and  the  fine  antique  mansion  built  by  Judge  Theodore  Sedgwick 
and  afterward  occupied  by  his  famous  daughter  Catharine.  There  is  a 
handsome  stone  libraiy  building  containing  5,000  volumes,  and  the  Hon. 
David  Dudley  Field  has  presented  the  town  with  a  bell-tower  of  stone, 
containing  a  silvery  chime  of  bells  and  a  clock.  The  Episcopal  stone 
Church  was  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Charles  Butler,  of  New  York,  a  native  of 
Stockbridge,  and  is  a  fine  building,  and  the  Congregational  Church  is 
also  a  noteworthy  structure.  The  Stockbridge  Casino  is  an  attractive 
building.  On  the  heights  above  the  village  formerly  stood  an  old 
Mission-House,  erected  early  in  the  last  century,  but  the  site  has  now 
been  given  to  the  city  as  a  park,  by  Cyrus  W.  Field.  The  view  from 
these  heights  is  one  of  the  loveliest  imaginable.  The  drives  in  the 
vicinity  of  Stockbridge  are  extremely  picturesque,  and  there  are  several 
points  of  interest  besides  Monument  Mountain,  already  mentioned.  The 
drive  from  Stockbridge  to  Lenox  (6  miles),  passing  by  the  famous 
"  bowl,"  in  the  extreme  northerly  part  of  Stockbridge,  is  considered  one 
of  the  finest  drives  in  the  Berkshires.  About  3  miles  K  is  Lake  MaJi- 
keenac  (formerly  called  "Stockbridge  Bowl"),  a  capacious  basin  of 
crystal-clear  water,  on  whose  margin  Hawthorne  once  lived  for  a  year 
and  a  half.  About  1^  mile  from  the  village  is  the  wonderful  Ice-Glen^ 
piercing  the  northern  spur  of  Bear  Mountain.  "  In  its  long  and  awe- 
some corridors  and  crypts,  formed  by  massive  and  gloomy  rocks,  and 
huge  but  prostrate  trees,  the  explorer  may  sometimes  find  masses  of 
ice  in  the  heart  and  heat  of  midsummer." 

Six  miles  N.  of  Stockbridge  is  the  flourishing  town  of  LiCe  {Morgan 
House^  Norton)^  which  owes  its  prosperity  to  its  extensive  paper-mills 
and  woolen  fabrics.  It  is  also  celebrated  for  its  marble,  which  is 
among  the  best  in  the  world.  Large  quantities  of  it  were  used  in  con- 
structing the  newer  portions  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington,  and  the  pub- 
lic buildings  at  Philadelphia.  The  village  contains  several  fine  churches 
and  private  residences,  and  there  are  many  attractive  drives  in  the 
vicinity.  ■  That  down  the  valley  of  the  Hopbrook  and  up  the  mountain 
to  Monterey  is  said  not  to  be  excelled  in  beauty  in  any  part  of  Europe. 
Tyringham,^  5  miles  from  Lee,  is  a  lovely  town  lying  snugly  in  a  valley, 
on  each  side  of  which  rise  the  hills.  Fernside,  a  popular  summer  resort, 
was  for  many  years  the  home  of  the  Tyringham  Shakers,  who  owned 
4,000  acres  in  one  body,  and  thev  were  among  the  first  societies  of  that 


Route  38.']  THE   BERKSHIRE   HILLS.  167 

sect  to  be  organized.  From  what  was  their  "  Holy  Ground "  on  the 
hill,  one  of  the  finest  views  in  Berkshire  is  obtained.  Otis^  13  miles  E. 
from  Lee,  has  a  number  of  lovely  drives  in  the  Farmington  River  Val- 
ley, and  3  large  lakes  and  reservoirs.  It  is  quite  a  summer  resort, 
as  is  Sandsfield^  8  miles  S.  of  Otis.  The  views  from  these  towns  are 
grand.  Four  miles  beyond  Lee  we  come  to  Lenox  [Curtis  HouHe)^  a 
favorite  resort  of  Bostonians  and  New-Yorkers.  It  "is  known  for  the 
singular  purity  and  exhilarating  effects  of  its  air,  and  for  the  beauty 
of  its  mountain  scenery."  Beecher's  "  Star  Papers,"  from  which  the 
above  is  a  quotation,  were  written  in  a  house  which  stood  near  the  site 
now  occupied  by  General  Rathbone's  mansion.  Fanny  Kembie  Butler, 
who  long  resided  here,  said  of  the  graveyard  at  Lenox :  "  I  will  not 
rise  to  trouble  any  one  if  they  will  let  me  sleep  there.  I  will  only 
ask  to  be  permitted,  once  in  a  while,  to  raise  my  head  and  look  out 
upon  this  glorious  scene."  Lenox  having  ceased  to  be  the  shire  town 
of  the  county,  the  former  court-house,  a  handsome  building,  now  ac- 
commodates a  free  library  and  reading-room,  public  hall,  town  offices, 
eitc.  The  Club-House  is  attractive  by  its  broad  piazzas  and  excellent 
tennis-grounds.  Trinity  Episcopal  Church,  of  which  at  the  laying  of 
its  corner-stone,  in  1886,  President  Arthur  took  pai-t,  is  the  fashionable 
church  during  the  season.  A  substantial  drinking  fountain,  made  of 
Italian  and  Tennessee  marble,  was  erected  in  Main  St.  in  1885,  to  the 
memory  of  Miss  Emma  Stebbins,  the  sculptor.  The  residences  of 
Charles  Lanier,  William  D.  Sloane,  Morris  K.  Jesup,  John  H.  Parsons, 
F.  A.  Schermerhorn,  and  General  John  F.  Rathbone,  are  attractive 
specimens  of  architecture.  There  are  numerous  pleasant  excursions 
from  Lenox,  a  popular  one  being  to  the  summit  of  Bald  Head  (carriages 
all  the  way),  which  commands  a  very  fine  view  of  the  village,  and  of  the 
valley  to  the  south,  including  Monument  Mountain.  Other  excursions 
are  to  the  Ledge^  Mattoon  Hill^  and  Perry's  PeaJc^  an  isolated  summit  6 
miles  from  the  town,  over  2,000  ft.  high,  and  overlooking  a  vast  range 
of  country  from  the  Catskills  to  the  Green  Mountains. 

Six  miles  above  Lenox  is  situated  Pittsfield  {Maplewood^  open 
only  in  summers,  American  House^  Berkshire  House,  and  Burhank 
HoteT)^  a  flourishing  city  of  17,281  inhabitants,  the  capital  of  the  Berk- 
shire region.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  lofty  plateau,  with  the 
Taconics  on  the  W.  and  the  Hoosacs  on  the  E. ;  and  contains  many 
handsome  public  and  commercial  buildings  and  private  dwellings.  The 
Court-House  is  a  costly  white-marble  edifice,  and  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  one  of  the  finest  in  Western  Massachusetts.  There  are  several 
handsome  churches,  including  the  spacious  and  costly  Methodist  Church 
and  the  famous  First  Church,  of  which  "  Fighting  Parson  Allen "  of 
Revolutionary  fame  was  once  pastor,  and  later  the  well-known  John 
Todd  filled  its  pulpit.  Other  churches  are  the  St.  Stephen's  P.  E. 
Charch^  Unity .^  Second  Advent,  and  South  [Cong.)  Church.  The  Rev. 
Jonathan  L.  Jenkins,  of  the  First  Church,  and  Rev.  Wilberforce  New- 
ton, of  St.  Stephen's  Church,  are  well  known  as  leaders  in  the  movement 
tending  to  the  unification  of  churches.  The  McqAeu'ood  Hotel.,  half  a 
mile  from  the  depot,  stands  in  the  midst  of  spacious  grounds,  and  the 


168  THE    BERKSHIRE    HILLS.  [Ronte  38. 

Miss  Salisbury  School  is  a  celebrated  pinvate  school.  In  the  park, 
near  the  center  of  the  town,  is  a  Soldiers''  Momiment^  which  was  dedi- 
cated with  imposing  ceremonies  on  September  24,  18'72.  The  *  Berk- 
shire Athenaeum  is  a  unique  building  of  bluestone,  freestone,  and  red 
granite,  and  contains  a  library  of  20,000  volumes,  a  museum,  cabinets, 
and  reading-rooms,  all  free.  The  Berkshire  Historical  Society  and  the 
Wednesday  Morning  Club  meet  within  its  walls.  Here  also  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Agassiz  Association,  which  has  enrolled  20,000  mem- 
bers. There  is,  too,  a  fine  Academy  of  Music.  The  drives  in  the 
vicinity  are  very  fine,  especially  those  to  Lenox  (6  miles),  to  Williams- 
town  (20  miles),  described  below,  and  to  Lebanon  Springs  (9  miles). 
On  the  mountain-road  thither  is  Lake  Onota^  a  romantic  sheet  of  water, 
about  2  miles  W.  of  Pittsfield,  and  a  favorite  excursion.  Other  drives 
which  the  stranger  should  not  miss  are  those  to  Waconah  Falls.,  in  Wind- 
sor (10  miles),  and  to  Potter  Mountain  (6  miles).  Ashley  Pond.,  from 
which  the  water-supply  of  the  town  is  drawn,  lies  S.  E.  on  the  crest  of  the 
Washington  Hills ;  and  near  by  is  Roaring  Brook.,  a  wild  mountain-tor- 
rent that  dashes  down  the  side  of  the  mountain  through  a  rugged  cleft 
known  as  Tories''  Cave.  N.  of  Onota,  on  the  slopes  of  the  Taconics,  are 
the  romantic  Lidu  Cascade;  Bcdance  Rock.,  a  huge  and  nicely-poised 
bowlder ;  and,  on  the  plateau  of  a  giant  crest  above,  a  lovely  mountain 
lakelet  called  Berry  Pond.  About  3  miles  N.  of  Pittsfield  is  Pontoosuc 
Lake  (reached  by  electric-cars  from  the  city),  a  beautiful  lake,  with  boats, 
steamers j  etc.,  and  about  2|  miles  S.  is  the  South  Mountain.,  from  the 
summit  of  which  thei'e  is  a  fine  view.  Six  miles  W.  is  Richmond.,  a 
pleasant  resort ;  and  here  Perry'' s  Peak.,  2,0'7'7  ft.  high,  commands  a  fine 
view.  Dalton.,  4  miles  E.  of  Pittsfield,  is  a  busy  paper-manufacturing 
town,  and  just  on  the  Pittsfield  line  is  the  mill  where  the  Government 
bank-note  paper  is  manufactured.  Laneshoro.,  a  cozy  town,  has  a  num- 
ber of  delightful  drives,  and  is  noted  as  the  birthplace  of  Josh  Bill- 
ings the  humorist,  and  other  eminent  men,  Governor  George  N.  Briggs, 
Judge  Shaw,  of  the  Massachusetts  Supreme  Court,  etc.  It  has  Epis- 
copal, Methodist,  Baptist,  and  Congregationalist  churches.  It  has 
extensive  iron-ore  mines,  and  marble  in  abundance.  Within  a  few 
years  it  has  come  into  prominence  as  a  summer  resort.  Lebanon 
Springs  (mentioned  previously)  are  among  the  most  famous  and  fre- 
quented in  the  country,  and  the  waters  are  regarded  as  remedial 
for  rheumatism,  liver-complaint,  and  cutaneous  affections.  Two  miles 
from  the  Springs  is  Shaker  Village,  founded  over  a  century  ago 
by  the  disciples  of  Ann  Lee,  and  now  the  headquarters  of  the  United 
Society  of  Believers  in  Christ's  Second  Appearing — better  known  as 
"  Millennial  Church."  On  Sundays,  in  the  summer,  their  singular  form 
of  worship  may  be  witnessed. 

At  Pittsfield  the  Pittsfield  Div.  of  the  railroad  comes  to  an  end,  and 
the  region  N.  of  it  (known  as  "Northern  Berkshire")  is  penetrated  by 
the  Pittsfield  &  North  Adams  Branch  of  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R., 
which  we  follow  to  W^illiamstown.  If  the  tourist  have  time  he  can 
make  his  trip  much  more  enjoyable  by  hiring  a  suitable  conveyance  and 
taking  the  highways  instead  of  the  railway.     The  road  from  Pittsfield 


Route  38.1  THE   BERKSHIRE    HILLS.  169 

to  Williamstown  through  Lanesboro  and  Ne\Y  Ashford  (20  miles)  pre- 
sents a  continuous  panorama  of  beautiful  scenery,  and  other  drives  are 
scarcely  less  attractive. 

On  the  railroad,  the  first  noteworthy  station  above  Pittsfield  is 
Cheshire  (10  miles),  famous  for  butter,  cheese,  and  lumber.  For  many 
years  the  inhabitants  were  almost  unanimously  Democratic  in  politics ; 
and  on  the  invitation  of  the  eccentric  Elder  Leland,  to  show  their  ap- 
preciation of  President  JeffersoD,  they  made  him  a  present,  on  January 
1,  1802,  of  an  enormous  cheese  weighing  1,235  pounds.  From  this 
point  to  N.  Adams  the  road  follows  the  valley  of  the  Hoosac  River, 
with  the  lofty  Saddleback  Range  on  the  AY.  for  the  greater  part  of  the 
way.  Adams  (5  miles  from  Cheshire)  is  one  of  the  best  points  from 
which  to  visit  *GreyIock  Mountain,  which  rises  majestically  to  the 
height  of  3,535  ft.,  and  is  the  highest  elevation  in  Massachusetts.  The 
ascent  is  easily  made  by  a  carriage-road,  and  the  view  is  surpassingly 
grand,  taking  in  all  the  Berkshire  Hills.  On  the  S.  are  the  valleys  of 
the  Hoosac  and  Housatonic ;  to  the  E.  are  the  Green  Mountains  on  the 
X.,  and  the  Catskills  on  the  W.,  and  Mts.  Monadnock,  Tom,  and  Hol- 
yoke.  Adams  is  a  thrifty  manufacturing  town,  with  extensive  gingham- 
mills,  and  a  factory  for  "xylonite,"  employing  500  hands.  Five  miles 
above  Adams  is  North  Adams  [Mansion  House^  Richmond  House,  Wil- 
son House),  a  busy  manufacturing  village,  having  shoe  interests.  Next 
to  this  the  principal  industries  are  the  extensive  print-works  and  ging- 
ham-mills. The  town  is  the  terminus  of  the  Pittsfield  &  Xorth  Adams 
Div.  of  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R.  on  the  S.  About  a  mile  E.  of  the 
village  is  the  Natural  Bridge,  a  roof  of  marble,  through  and  under 
which  Hudson's  Brook  has  excavated  a  tunnel  15  ft.  wide  and  150  long. 
In  the  ravine  of  this  brook  there  are  several  picturesque  points ;  but 
next  in  interest  to  the  bridge  itself  is  a  columnar  group  of  rocks,  which 
at  its  overhanging  crest  assumes  the  aspect  of  gigantic  features,  and  is 
called  Profile  Rock.  The  Cascade  is  in  a  romantic  glen  H  mile  from 
the  hotel,  and  is  30  ft.  high.  About  2  miles  S.  is  the  W.  entrance  to 
the  Hoosac  Tunnel  (see  p.  161).  The  old  stage-road  across  the 
Hoosacs  from  N.  Adams  to  the  E.  end  of  the  tunnel  (8  miles)  affords 
an  interesting  mountain-drive.  Hawthorne  says  of  it:  "I  have  never 
driven  through  such  romantic  scenery,  where  there  were  such  variety 
and  boldness  of  mountain-shapes  as  this ;  and,  though  it  was  a  sunny 
day,  the  mountains  diversified  the  view  with  sunshine  and  shadow,  glory 
and  gloom." 

Five  miles  W.  of  N.  Adams  is  the  academic  Williamstown  (The 
Greylock  and  Taconic  Inn),  beautifully  situated  in  a  mountain-inclosed 
valley,  and  noted  as  the  site  of  Williams  College,  founded  in  1793,  and  a 
highly  prosperous  institution.  The  college  buildings  are  the  only  archi- 
tectural features  of  the  town,  and  embrace  15  structures,  of  which  the 
finest  is  Hopkins  Memorial  Hall.  The  library  of  20,000  volumes  is  in 
Lawrence  Hall ;  and  the  residence  of  President  Carter  is  opposite  Wpst 
College,  on  the  main  street.  Morgan  Hall,  a  beautiful  3-story  building  of 
cut  stone,  built  at  a  cost  of  $100,000,  is  the  gift  of  the  Hon.  Edwin  D. 
Morgan ;  Clark  Hall,  given  by  Edward  Clark,  and  the  observatory  E.  of 


170  NEW  YORK  TO  YEEMo:i^T.  [Route  39. 

the  College  Hall,  presented  by  David  Dudley  Field,  are  fine  structures. 
Three  new  laboratories  are  being  built  at  a  cost  of  $150,000.  The  late 
President  Garfield  was  a  graduate.  Near  by  is  Mills's  Park^  an  inclos- 
ure  of  10  acres,  in  which  a  marble  shaft,  surmounted  by  a  globe,  marks 
the  spot  where  Samuel  J.  Mills  and  his  associate  students  met  by  a  hay- 
stack in  1807  to  consecrate  themselves  to  the  work  of  foreign  missions. 
There  is  a  bronze  soldiers'  monument  on  a  granite  pedestal  in  the  main 
street.  Among  the  many  attractive  resorts  in  the  vicinity  of  Williams- 
town  are  Fiord's  Glen^  the  Cascades^  and  Snow  Hole^  a  gorge  in  the 
mountain  where  the  snow  never  entirely  melts.  Sand  Springs^  1^  mile 
N.  of  the  village,  is  a  resort  where  the  waters  of  the  spring  are  thought 
to  be  efficacious  in  cutaneous  diseases,  and  bathing-houses  are  provided. 
Mount  Hopkhis  (2,800  ft.  high)  is  a  short  distance  S.  of  Williamstown, 
and  is  often  ascended  for  its  broad  and  striking  view.  The  ascent  of 
Greylock  is  often  made  from  this  side.  The  Hopper  is  a  stupendous 
gorge  between  Greylock,  Pi-ospect,  and  Bald  Mountains,  through  which 
flows  the  picturesque  Hopper  Brook. 

39.  New  York  to  Vermont  via  Harlem  Division  of  the 
New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R. 

The  Harlem  division  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.,  in  connection  with 
the  Lebanon  Springs  and  Bennington  &  Rutland  R.  Rs.,  forms  a  short 
and  popular  route  to  Vermont  and  the  North.  It  skirts  the  eastern  por- 
tions of  all  those  counties  lying  upon  the  Hudson  River  and  traversed 
by  the  Hudson  River  R.  R.  (see  Route  9).  The  stations  and  towns 
along  the  line  are,  for  the  most  part,  inconsiderable  places,  many  of 
them  having  gi'own  up  with  the  road.  The  country  traversed  is  varied 
and  picturesque  in  surface,  much  of  it  being  rich  agricultural  land ;  but 
it  does  not  compare  with  the  river  route  in  scenic  attractions. 

Leaving  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  the  train  passes  through  long 
tunnels  under  the  city,  and  at  134th  St.  (4  miles)  crosses  the  Harlem 
River.  Fordham  (9  miles)  is  the  seat  of  St.  John's  College,  a  noted 
Roman  Catholic  institution ;  and  1^  mile  W.  is  Jerome  Park,  once 
the  finest  race-course  in  America.  Williams  Bridge  {IQ\  miles)  is  on 
the  Bronx  River.  One  mile  beyond  is  Woodlaion  Cemetery,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  the  many  cemeteries  in  the  neighborhood  of  New  York. 
White  Plains  (22  miles)  was  the  scene  of  the  eventful  Revolutionary 
battle  of  Oct.  28,  1776.  Stations,  Chappaqua  (33  miles),  Bedford  (39 
miles),  and  Katonah  (42  miles).  From  Golden^s  Bridge  (44  miles)  a 
bi-anch  road  runs  in  7  miles  to  Lake  Mahopac,  a  highly  popular 
summer  resort.  The  lake  is  1,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  9  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, with  very  irregular  shores,  and  is  the  center  of  a  group  of 
22  lakes,  lying  within  a  circle  of  12  miles'  radius,  and  amid  pleasing 
scenery.  The  boating  on  the  lakes  is  excellent,  and  the  fishing  good. 
The  drives  are  fine,  and  there  are  many  pleasant  excursions.  Thomp- 
son''s  Hotel  is  first  class,  and  there  are  many  boarding-houses. 

Beyond  Golden's  Bridge,  the  train  passes  the  small  stations  of 
Brewster'' s  (52  miles),  Paterson  (60  miles),  Pawling  (64),   and  Dover 


Route  39.]  2^EW    YORK   TO    VEEMOI^T.  171 

Plains  (Ye).  Beyond  the  latter,  the  scenery  becomes  mountainous  and 
fine.  From  Amenia  (84  miles),  stages  run  in  4  miles  to  Sharon  (see 
p.  164) ;  and  at  Boston  Cormiers  (99  miles)  the  Berkshire  Hills  come  in 
sight  on  the  right.  CopaTce  (104  miles)  is  only  2  miles  from  the  Bash- 
Bish  Fall  (see  p.  164).  At  Chatham  (127  miles)  connection  is  made 
with  the  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R.  (see  Route  36),  by  which  the  distance 
to  Albany  is  24  miles,  and  with  the  Lebanon  Springs  R.  R.,  which  runs 
N.  in  58  miles  to  Bennington,  Yt.,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
Bennington  &  Rutland  R.  R.,  which  runs  in  55  miles  to  Rutland.  Nine- 
teen miles  beyond  Chatham  the  train  reaches  Lebanon  Springs  (see 
p.  168).  At  Petersburg  (166  miles)  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.  is  intersected, 
and  shortly  beyond  the  train  enters  the  State  of  Vermont,  and  soon 
reaches  Bennington  {Putnam  House,  Stark  House),  one  of  the  pret- 
tiest towns  in  the  State.  It  is  situated  in  a  picturesque  mountain- 
inclosed  valley,  800  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  solidly  and  handsomely  built, 
and  contains  6,391  inhabitants.  Manufacturing  is  extensively  carried 
on,  the  chief  products  being  cotton  goods  and  knit  underclothing.  Ben- 
nington Center,  one  mile  distant,  is  the  Revolutionary  village,  and  was 
the  site  of  the  old  Catamount  Tavern,  which  was  burned  in  1871.  Hoo- 
sae,  N.  Y.,  the  adjoining  township,  was  the  scene  of  the  battle  of  Ben- 
nington (Aug.  16,  1777),  in  which  a  detachment  of  the  British  forces 
under  Col.  Baum  was  utterly  defeated  by  the  Green  Mountain  Boys, 
led  by  the  intrepid  Col.  Stark.  About  2  miles  from  Bennington,  by 
footpath  (4-|-  by  carriage-road),  is  *  3It.  Anthoiiy,  on  whose  summit  is  a 
tower  from  which  a  broad  and  beautiful  view  may  be  obtained.  Among 
numerous  and  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  those  to  Petersburg,  to 
Prospect  Mt.,  and  to  Big  Pond. 

Between  Bennington  and  Rutland  a  mountainous  region,  affording 
much  pleasing  scenery,  is  traversed.  There  are  several  pretty  towns 
en  route,  of  which  the  only  one  requiring  mention  is  Manchester 
{Equinox  House,  3Iansion  House),  a  beautiful  village  nestling  in  a 
valley  between  the  Green  and  Equinox  ranges.  Many  visitors  are  at- 
tracted thither  in  summer  by  its  pure  and  invigorating  aii',  fine  scenery, 
trout-fishing,  and  driving.  A  noticeable  feature  of  the  village  is  its 
white-marble  pavements,  there  being  numerous  marble-quarries  in  the 
vicinity.  Mt.  ^olus  is  5  miles  from  the  village,  and  to  the  S.  E.  is 
Stratton  Mountain.  Xear  the  latter  is  Stratton  Gap,  a  beautiful  glen, 
which  furnished  the  subject  of  one  of  A.  B.  Durand's  best  paintings. 
*Mt.  Equinox  (3,706  ft.  above  the  sea)  is  ascended  by  a  road  from 
the  village,  and  is  noted  for  its  glorious  views,  the  following  points  be- 

Iing  visible  in  clear  weather :  Lakes  George  and  Champlaiu,  Kearsarge 
and  the  Franconia  Mountains  in  New  Hampshire,  Greylock  in  Massa- 
chusetts, Killington  Peak  in  Vermont,  and  the  Catskill  Mountains  and 
Saratoga  village  in  New  York.  Skinner  Hollow  is  a  deep  gulf  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  mountain,  containing  a  cave  in  which  the  snow  never  en- 
tirely melts,  a  stream  which  finds  an  outlet  through  a  cavern,  and  a  mar- 
ble-quarrv.     Rutland  (240  miles)  is  described  on  page  147. 


172  NEW   YORK   TO  BUFFALO.  [Route  IfO. 

40.  New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls. 

Via  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  Eiver  R.  R.  (drawing-room  and  sleeping- 
cars,  and  vestibuled  trains).  To  BuiTalo,  440  miles  ;  fare,  |9.25.  To  Niagara 
Falls,  448  miles  ;  fare,  $9.25. 

From  New  York  City  to  Albany  (143  miles)  this  route  has  already 
been  described  in  Route  9.  The  railway  runs  close  along  the  E.  bank 
of  the  Hudson  River,  affording  good  views  of  the  river  itself  and  of  the 
opposite  bank,  and  the  continuous  view  of  the  river  and  its  scenery 
from  the  cars  makes  the  journey  a  most  attractive  one.  Seats  on  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  cars  should  be  obtained  going  N. ;  on  the  right- 
hand  side  going  S.  The  railroad  crosses  the  river  to  Albany  on  a  fine 
bridge,  whence  it  traverses  from  E.  to  W.  the  entire  length  of  New 
York  State,  passing  through  the  rich  midland  counties.  It  has  two 
termini  at  the  E.  end,  the  main  line  at  Albany  and  the  branch  at 
Troy,  the  branches  meeting  after  17  miles  at  Schenectady.  It  then  con- 
tinues in  one  line  to  Syracuse  (148  miles  from  Albany),  where  it  di- 
vides and  is  a  double  route  to  Rochester,  whence  the  Niagara  Falls 
branch  diverges  to  the  Falls  and  the  main  line  passes  on  to  Buffalo, 
where  connection  is  made  with  the  Lake  Shore  &  Michigan  Southern 
and  the  Michigan  Central  R.  Rs.  The  quadruple  tracks  of  the  road 
are  laid  with  steel  rails,  and  drawing-room  cars  and  sleeping-cars  are 
attached  to  the  through  trains,  which  leave  New  York  for  Chicago. 
The  great  Erie  Canal  traverses  the  State  from  Albany  to  Buffalo  nearly 
on  the  same  line  with  the  railroad,  and  often  in  sight  from  the  cars. 

Leaving  Albany  (which  is  described  on  p.  72),  the  train  passes  W. 
Albany,  with  its  extensive  machine-shops  and  cattle-yards,  and  in  1*7 
miles  reaches  Schenectady  {Edison  House,  Carley  House),  a  city  of 
19,902  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mohavvk  River,  on 
a  spot  which  once  formed  the  council-grounds  of  the  Mohawks.  It  is 
one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State,  a  trading-post  having  been  estab- 
lished here  by  the  Dutch  in  1620,  and  is  the  seat  of  Unioti  College, 
founded  in  1*795,  and  of  important  wool-manufactures,  iron-works,  and 
railroad-shops.  Here  the  Saratoga  &  Champlain  Div.  of  the  Delaware 
&  Hudson  R.  R.  diverges  and  leads  to  Saratoga  Springs  and  Lakes 
George  and  Champlain  (see  Routes  44  and  46).  Leaving  Schenectady, 
the  train  crosses  the  Mohawk  River  and  the  Erie  Canal  on  a  bridge 
nearly  1,000  ft.  long,  and  traverses  a  rich  farming  country  to  Amsterdam 
(33  miles)  and  Fonda  (43  miles).  From  Fonda  a  railway  runs  in  26  miles 
to  Northville,  where  connection  is  made  with  daily  stages  which  run  in 
29  miles  to  Lal^e  Pleasant  in  the  Adirondack  region  (Route  47).  From 
Palatine  Bridge  (55  miles)  carriages  run  in  8  miles  to  Sharon  Springs 
(Route  52).  Fort  Plai7i  (58  miles)  is  a  flourishing  village  2  miles  from 
old  Fort  Plain  of  Revolutionary  memory  ;  and  St.  Johuville  (64  miles) 
is  a  prosperous  manufacturing  town  on  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk,  with 
fine  scenery  in  the  vicinity.  Ten  miles  beyond  is  Ijittle  Fails  (Girvan 
House),  which  is  remarkable  for  a  bold  passage  of  the  river  and  canal 
through  a  wild  and  most  picturesque  defile.  The  river  falls  45  ft.  in 
half  a  mile,  and  affords  a  water-power  which  is  extensively  used  in 


Route  40.]  NEVf    TOEK   TO   BUFFALO.  173 

manufactures.  Twelve  miles  S.  W.  of  Little  Falls  is  Richfield  Springs 
(Route  43).  Stations,  Herkimer  (81  miles),  the  starting-point  of  the 
Adirondack  &  St.  Lawrence  R.  R.,  Ilion  (83  miles),  and  then  (95 
miles  from  Albany)  comes  the  large  and  handsome  city  of  Utica 
{Ba(/ff''s,  Butterfield  House,  St.  James),  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Mohawk,  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schuyler  (built  in  1756).  The  city 
has  44,007  inhabitants,  extensive  and  varied  manufactures,  and  is  the 
center  of  an  important  railway  and  canal  system.  Genesee  St.  is  the 
leading  thoroughfare ;  on  it  are  the  handsome  Citt/  Hall  and  many 
fine  commercial  buildings,  churches,  and  private  residences.  The  State 
Lxmaiic  Asylum  is  a  spacious  building  on  a  farm  W.  of  the  city  (reached 
by  horse-cars).  At  Utica  direct  connection  is  made  for  Richfield  Springs 
by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.  (Route  43).  Utica  is 
the  chief  terminus  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  which 
is  the  gateway  to  the  Adirondack  region  from  the  W.,  and  which  is  also 
a  prominent  route  to  the  Thousand  Islands  and  Montreal. 

An  easy  and  popular  excursion  from  Utica  is  via  Rome,  Watertown 
&  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  to  Trenton  Falls  (distance,  17  miles).  **  Trenton 
Falls  {Katiyahoora  Hotel,  Moore's  Hotel)  are  situated  on  the  W. 
Canada  (or  Kanata)  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Mohawk.  The  descent 
of  the  stream,  312  ft.  in  a  distance  of  2  miles,  is  by  a  series  of  half 
a  dozen  cataracts,  which  have  worn  for  themselves  out  of  the  lime- 
stone hills  a  bed  which  at  some  points  is  200  ft.  below  the  level  of  the 
surrounding  country.  The  ravine  is  very  narrow,  with  precipitous 
walls,  and  the  path  along  the  bottom,  which  was  hewn  out  at  consider- 
able cost  and  is  kept  in  admirable  order,  is  passable  only  at  low  water. 
During  high  w^ater  the  path  along  the  cliff  must  be  followed,  and  affords 
some  striking  views  of  the  profound  chasm  below  and  of  the  torrent 
which  in  time  of  flood  rages  along  with  the  force  and  tumult  of  a 
Niagara.  It  is  difficult  to  say  whether  the  falls  are  most  impressive  in 
times  of  high  or  low  water,  but  those  who  can  should  see  them  under 
both  conditions.  The  usual  way  of  visiting  them  is  by  a  stairway  which 
descends  the  precipice  a  few  rods  from  Moore's  Hotel  (fee  25c.).  From 
the  platform  at  the  foot  a  pathway,  difficult  in  places  but  entirely  safe, 
leads  up  the  ravine  past  ^Sherman's  Fall  (33  ft.  high),  '^ High  Falls  (40 
ft.  high  and  extremely  beautiful),  Mill-Dam  Fall  (14  ft.  high),  and  the 
*Alhambra,  a  great  natural  hall  or  amphitheatre  which  "  has  been  the 
despair  of  artists  and  descriptive  writers."  At  Rocky  Heart  most  vis- 
itors tui^n  back,  but  the  adventurous  may  pass  on  to  Prospject  Fall  (20 
ft.  high),  at  the  head  of  the  chasm.  An  easier  way  of  reaching  Pros- 
pect Fall  is  by  a  walk  or  drive  of  3  miles  along  the  cliff  from  the  hotel. 

From  ITtica  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  runs  N.  to  SacJcetVs 
Harbor  (104  miles  from  Utica)  on  Lake  Ontario,  connecting  at  Watertown 
with  branch  to  Clayton  (108  miles)  and  Ogdensburg  (134  miles)  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence River.  From  Clayton  steamers  run  in  connection  with  the  trains  to 
Alexandria  Bay  (see  Route  60).  BoonvMle  (35  miles  from  Utica)  is  a  con- 
venient entrance  to  the  John  Brown  Tract,  which  forms  the  S.  portion 
of  the  great  Adirondack  wilderness.  Guides  and  outfit  may  be  obtained  at 
Boonville.  The  Fulton  Lakes  (Route  47)  are  26  miles  N.  E.  of  BoonvUle,  and 
there  are  many  other  lakes  in  the  vicinity  abounding  in  fish. 


174  NEW   YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Boute  JfO. 

Beyond  Utica  the  train  passes  in  14  miles  to  Rome  {Arlington 
House  and  Stamvix  Hal/),  a  thriving  city  of  14,99J  inhabitants  at  an- 
other junction  of  this  route  with  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg 
R.  R.  and  of  the  Erie  and  Black  River  Canals.  Large  railroad-shops  and 
rolling-mills  are  located  here,  there  is  excellent  water-power,  and  Rome 
is  one  of  the  best  lumber-markets  in  the  State.  There  are  a  few  fine 
buildings  and  many  handsome  residences. 

The  Some,  Waterfoivn  &  Ogdenshurq  B.  R.  runeN.  W.  from  Eome  to  Water- 
toum  (73  miles),  Cape  Vincent  (96  miJes),  and  Ogdensburg,  141  miles.  From 
Cape  Vincent  a  steamer  runs  twice  daily  in  summer  to  Alexandria  Bay  (see 
Eoute  60).  and  there  is  a  steam-ferry  to  Kingston,  Can.  This  is  a  through 
route  from  New  York  to  Kingston,  Alexandria  Bay.  and  the  Thousand  Islands. 
Fare  from  New  York  to  Cape  Vincent,  $8.20. 

Leaving  Rome  the  train  passes  Verona  (118  miles),  with  a  mineral 
spring,  and  Oneida  (122  miles),  which  is  about  6  miles  from  Oneida 
Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  19  miles  long  and  6  miles  wide, 
abounding  in  fish,  and  surrounded  by  a  highly  cultivated  country. 
Chittenango  (133  miles,  White  SuIpJmr  Springs  Hotel)  lies  at  the 
entrance  of  the  deep  and  narrow  valley  through  which  the  waters  of 
Cazenovia  Lake  are  discharged  into  Oneida  Lake,  and  is  noted  for  its 
iron  and  sulphur  springs,  which  are  much  frequented  by  invalids.  Fif- 
teen miles  beyond  Chittenango  is  Syracuse  ( Glohe  Hotel,  Hotel  Mowry, 
and  Vanderhilt  House),  with  a  population  of  88,143,  and  important 
manufactures  and  trade.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  S.  end  of 
Onondaga  Lake  (which  is  6  miles  long  and  about  1-|-  wide),  and  to  the 
S.  lies  the  reservation  of  the  few  remaining  Onondaga  Indians.  The 
Government  Building,  Court-House,  Cleric's  Office,  Onondaga  Co.  Sav- 
ings-Bank  and  Syracuse  Savings-Bank,  High  School,  Home  for  Old 
Ladies,  State  Asyhtm  for  Idiots,  and  the  Orphan  Asylum,  are  all  fine. 
The  Penitentiary  is  on  a  hill  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  city.  The  Syra- 
cuse University  (Methodist)  has  three  fine  buildings  and  an  observatory 
on  a  hill  to  the  E.  The  celebrated  Von  Ranke  Historical  Library  is 
located  here.  •  St.  Jlary^s  (Catholic)  Cathedral,  St.  PauVs  (Episcopal) 
Cathedrcd,  and  the  May  Memorial  Church  (Unitarian)  are  also  fine. 
The  famous  Salt  Spjrings  are  on  the  shore  of  the  lake.  Through  Syra- 
cuse also  pass  the  West  Shore,  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western, 
and  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  (Phoenix  Line  to  Oswego). 
Between  Syracuse  and  Rochester  the  New  York  Central  R.  R.  has  two 
lines :  the  "  Old  Road "  via  Canandaigua,  104  miles  long,  and  the 
"Direct  Route,"  81  miles  long. 

Syracuse  to  Rochester  via  ^'•Direct  Route.'''' 

This  route  runs  parallel  with  the  Erie  Canal  nearly  all  the  way 
through  a  level  country,  with  numerous  small  to^vns  along  the  line, 
but  none  that  require  mention.  Lyons  (193  miles)  is  the  largest,  and 
is  a  pretty  village  of  6,228  inhabitants,  capital  of  Wayne  Co.,  which 
produces  a  great  quantity  of  dried  fruit.  In  a  hill-side  near  Palmyra 
(20Y  miles)  Joseph  Smith  claimed  to  have  found  the  golden  plates  of 
the  Mormon  Bible.     Rochester  (229  miles)  is  described  beyond. 


Koute  JfO.]  NEW   YORK   TO   BTTPFALO.  175 

Syracuse  to  Rochester  via  "  Old  Road.'''' 

The  distance  by  this  route  (Auburn  Branch)  is  104  miles,  and  is 
traversed  only  by  local  trains.  Leaving  Syracuse  the  train  passes  sev- 
eral minor  stations,  and  in  18  miles  reaches  Skaneateles  Jtmction^  where 
connection  is  made  by  rail  (5  miles)  with  Skaneateles^  a  thriving  vil- 
lage at  the  foot  of  *Skaneateles  Lake,  a  charming  water  16  miles 
long  and  1  to  l-J  wide,  860  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  surrounded  by  hills 
rising  1,200  ft.  above  the  surface.  Boating  and  fishing  are  excellent, 
and  the  lake  is  much  visited  in  summer,  when  a  steamer  plies  between 
Skaneateles  and  the  village  of  Glen  Haven  at  the  S.  end.  About  10 
miles  S.  E.  of  Skaneateles  is  the  picturesque  and  romantic  Otisco  Lake, 
4  miles  long  and  embosomed  amid  lofty  hills.  Nine  miles  beyond  Skane- 
ateles Junction  is  Auburn  (Osboyme  House,  Owasco  Inn),  a  city  of 
25,858  inhabitants,  situated  near  Owasco  Lake,  which  finds  its  outlet 
through  the  town.  Genesee  St.  is  the  principal  thoroughfare,  and  nearly 
all  the  streets  are  pleasantly  shaded.  On  Genesee  St.  are  the  County 
Court-House,  and  the  churches  of  St.  Peter  (Episcopal),  St.  Mary''s  (Ro- 
man Catholic),  and  the  First  Presbyterian.  The  Theological  Seminary 
(Presbyterian)  has  substantial  stone  buildings  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  the 
city.  Near  the  station  is  the  vast  and  massive  StaAe  Prisoyi,  covering 
18  acres  of  ground,  which  are  inclosed  by  a  stone  wall  30  ft.  high. 
Auburn  v/as  long  the  home  of  William  H.  Seward,  and  his  grave  is 
in  the  cemetery  on  Fort  Hill  (reached  by  Fort  St.).  Owasco  Lake  is 
3  miles  S.  of  Auburn,  and  is  a  favorite  summer  resort.  It  is  11  miles 
long,  about  a  mile  wide,  and  surrounded  in  part  by  bold  hills.  A 
steamer  plies  during  the  summer  between  Owasco  Village  and  3Io7'avia. 

At  Cayuga  (11  miles  beyond  Auburn)  the  ti-ain  crosses  Cayuga 
Lake  by  a  bridge  nearly  a  mile  long,  affording  a  fine  view  from  the 
cars  to  the  left.  From  this  point  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  i-uns  S.  in 
38  miles  to  Ithaca,  and  steamboats  also  ply  upon  the  lake.  At  Aurora, 
12  miles  S.  of  Cayuga,  is  Wells  College,  where  Mrs.  Cleveland,  the  wife 
of  the  President,  was  educated.  At  the  S.  end  of  Cayuga  Lake  is 
Ithaca  (Clinton  House,  Ithaca  Hotel),  the  seat  of  Cornell  University, 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  the  State,  and  surrounded  by  charm- 
ing and  picturesque  scenery.  The  buildings  of  *  Cornell  University,  on 
the  hills  E.  of  the  village,  400  ft.  above  the  lake,  are  worth  a  visit.  This 
institution  was  founded  in  1865,  and  in  1892-93  had  a  faculty  of  145 
instructors  and  an  attendance  of  over  1,665  students.  Its  libraries  aggre- 
gate 130,000  volumes.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  village  there 
are  said  to  be  no  less  than  15  cascades  and  waterfalls,  varying  from  30 
to  160  ft.  in  height,  5  of  them  being  over  100  ft.  The  beautiful  Ithaca 
Fall,  150  ft.  bi-oad  and  160  ft.  high,  is  about  a  mile  distant  in  Ithaca 
Gorge,  which  is  said  to  contain  more  waterfalls  within  the  space  of  a 
mile  than  any  other  place  in  America.  The  celebrated  *  Taghkanic 
Falls  are  10  miles  from  Ithaca,  and  may  be  reached  by  a  pleasant 
drive  along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  by  the  lake-steamers,  or  by  the 
Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  Near  the  Falls  is  the  Cascade  House.  Taghkanic 
Creek  flows  through  a  comparatively  level  country  until  about  l-J  mile 


170  NEW    YORK    TO    BUFFxiLO.  [Boute  1^0. 

from  the  lake  it  encounters  a  rocky  ledge  lying  directly  across  its 
course.  But  the  stream  has  succeeded  in  excavating  for  itself  a  channel 
from  100  to  400  ft.  in  depth  and  400  across  at  its  lower  extremity. 
Through  this  chasm  the  waters  hurry  on  to  the  precipice,  where  they 
fall  perpendicularly  215  ft.  into  a  rocky  basin,  forming  a  cataract  more 
than  50  ft.  higher  than  Niagara.  At  the  bottom  of  the  Fall  the  walls 
of  the  ravine  are  nearly  perpendicular  and  400  ft.  high,  but  paths  and 
stairways  assist  the  passage.  (Ithaca  is  also  reached  by  the  Delaware, 
Lackawanna  and  Western  R.  R.  and  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R,,  Routes 
43  and  45.) 

Five  miles  beyond  Cayuga  is  the  manufacturing  village  of  Seneca 
Falls,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  falls  of  the  Seneca  River;  and  10 
miles  farther  is  the  academic  city  of  Geneva  [FranMin  House,  The 
Kirkwood),  beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  Seneca  Lake,  and  noted 
for  its  educational  institutions,  of  which  Hohart  College  (Episcopal)  is 
the  most  important.  *  Seneca  Lake,  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
beautiful  in  New  York  State,  is  35  miles  long  and  1  to  4  miles  wide,  is 
very  deep,  and  never  freezes  over.  Steamboats  run  several  times  daily 
in  summer  from  Geneva  to  Watkins,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  stop- 
ping en  route  at  Ovid  and  Dresden.  Near  Watkins  is  the  famous 
Watkins  Glen  (see  Route  59). 

Twelve  miles  beyond  Geneva  are  the  Clifton  Springs  {Clifton 
Springs  Sanitarium),  one  of  the  most  frequented  resorts  on  the  line  of 
the  New  York  Central  R.  R.  The  waters  are  sulphurous  in  character, 
and  are  considered  efficacious  in  bilious  and  cutaneous  disorders.  Ten 
miles  farther  is  Canandaigua  {Canandaigua  Hotel),  a  pretty  village  of 
8,229  inhabitants  at  the  N.  end  of  Canandaigua  Lake,  28  miles  from 
Rochester.  Canandaigua  Lake  is  16  miles  long,  narrow  and  deep, 
is  bordered  by  numerous  vineyards,  abounds  in  fish,  and  is  inuch 
visited  in  summer.  Steamers  run  down  the  lake  to  Seneca  Pohit  and 
Woodville.  Canandaigua  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Northern 
Central  R.  R.  of  the  Pennsylvania  System  (see  Route  59).  Between 
Canandaigua  and  Rochester  there  are  no  important  stations. 

Rochester. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Powers  (W.  Main  St.),  the  Livingston  (Exchange  St.), 
the  JVeiv  Osburn  (S.  St.  Paiil  St.),  and  the  Whit.conib  House  (cor.  E.  Main  and 
Clinton  Sts.),  are  first-class  houses.  Brackett  House,  Congress  Hall,  and  Wav- 
erly  House,  are  less  expensive  houses.  Street-cars  on  the  principal  streets 
and  to  the  suburbs;  stages  to  adjacent  towns.  Post- Office  in  North  Fitz- 
hugh  St. 

Rochester  is  on  both  sides  of  the  Genesee  River,  7  miles  from  its 
mouth  in  Lake  Ontario.  Soon  after  it  enters  the  city  the  river  makes 
a  rapid  descent,  and  there  is  a  perpendicular  fall  of  96  ft.  near  the 
center,  and  one  of  25  ft.  and  one  of  84  ft.  on  the  N.  To  the  water- 
power  thus  afforded  the  prosperity  of  the  city  is  attributable,  and 
it  contains  several  large  flour-mills.  In  addition  to  the  coal  and  iron 
trade,  other  important  industries  are  clothing,  boots  and  shoes,  en- 
gines, agricultural  implements,  trees,  and  garden  and  flower  seeds. 
The  immense  *  nurseries  in  which  these  latter  are  produced  are  well 


Route  JfO.]  NEW    YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  177 

worth  a  visit.  Rochester  was  first  settled  in  1810,  was  incorporated  as 
a  city  in  1834,  and  in  1890  had  a  population  of  133,896.  The  streets  are 
nearly  all  laid  out  at  right-angles,  many  of  them  are  well  paved  with 
stone,  and  most  of  them  are  bordered  with  shade-trees.  Main  St.,  State 
St.,  Lake  Ave.,  and  East  and  West  Aves.,  are  the  principal  thoroughfares. 
At  the  cor.  of  W.  Main  and  State  Sts.  are  the  *  Powers  Buildings, 
a  tubular  block  of  stores,  built  of  stone,  glass,  and  iron,  7  stories  high. 
In  the  upper  halls  is  a  fine  collection  of  paintings,  and  on  the  top  is  a 
tower  (open  to  visitors)  from  which  may  be  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the 
city  and  its  surroundings.  Opposite  is  the  Wilder  Building,  12  sto- 
ries. On  State  State  is  the  Ellwanger  and  Barry  Building,  8  stories. 
Near  the  Powers  Buildings  is  the  Arcade.  On  W.  Main  St.  is  the  Coun- 
ty Conrt-House,  in  which  is  the  Law  Library  of  20,000  volumes.  Back 
of  the  Gourt-House  is  the  City  Hall,  a  building  of  gray  sandstone, 
138  by  80  ft.,  Avith  a  tower  175  ft.  high.  In  the  same  vicinity  is  the 
Free  Academy,  a  large  brick  building  with  sandstone  trimmings.  Next 
to  it  is  Rochester  Savings-Bank,  cor.  W.  Main  and  Fitzhugh  Sts.  Other 
noticeable  buildings  are  the  Lyceum  Theatre  and  the  Genesee  Valley 
Club.  Warner's  Building,  in  the  Gothic  style,  7  stories  high,  is  a  fine 
structure.  The  finest  church  edifices  are  the  First  Baptist,  in  Fitz- 
hugh St.  ;  the  First  Presbyterian,  in  Spring  St. ;  Second  Presbyterian, 
in  Fitzhugh  St. ;  St.  Patrick''s  Cathedral  (Roman  Catholic),  in  Frank 
St. ;  the  Asbury  M.  E.  Church  ;  and  the  Third  Presbyterian  Church. 
The  Young  Men^s  Christian  Association  Building,  just  erected,  cost 
1150,000.  The  *  University  of  Rochester  was  founded  by  the 
Baptists  in  1850,  and  now  has  15  instructors.  It  is  situated  in  the  E. 
part  of  the  city  (in  University  Ave.),  where  it  has  24-J  acres,  and  occu- 
pies three  massive  buildings.  The  library  contains  26,000  volumes, 
and  the  geological  cabinets,  collected  by  Henry  A.  Ward,  are  among 
the  finest  in  the  country.  The  library  and  cabinets  are  in  a  hand- 
some fire-proof  building.  There  is  also  a  Baptist  Theological  Semi- 
nary, founded  in  1850.  Its  library  numbers  more  than  25,000  vol- 
umes, including  4,600  which  constituted  the  library  of  Neander,  the 
German  church  historian.  The  City  Hospitcd  (West  Ave.)  has  a  fine 
building  vvith  accommodations  for  150  patients.  St.  Mary''s  Hospital 
(in  West  Ave.)  is  an  imposing  edifice  of  stone,  with  accommodations 
for  500  patients.  The  State  hxdustricd  School  is  an  extensive  brick 
building  surrounded  by  grounds  42  acres  in  extent,  about  one  mile  N. 
from  the  center  of  the  city.  The  Western  New  York  Listitution  for 
Deaf -Mutes  is  in  N.  St.  Paul  St.,  with  150  pupils.  Other  points  of 
interest  are  ;^  Mount  Hope  Cemetery,  picturesquely  situated  in  the 
S.  part  of  the  city  (reached  by  horse-cars).  From  Mt.  Hope  may  be 
seen  the  Hemlock  Water  Reservoir  (with  a  large  fountain),  supplying 
the  city  with  water  from  Hemlock  Lake,  30  miles  S. ;  and  the  cut-stone 
Aqueduct,  848  ft.  long  with  a  channel  45  ft.  wide,  by  which  the  Erie 
Canal  is  carried  across  the  Genesee  River.  A  boulevard,  which  is  a 
continuation  of  Lake  Ave.,  300  ft.  wide  and  6  miles  long,  extends  to 
Lake  Ontario,  making  a  noble  drive. 

en( 

13 


178  NEW    YOEK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Boute  1^0. 

side  of  the  stream.  The  railroad-cars  pass  about  100  yards  S.  of  the 
most  southerly  fall,  so  that  passengers  in  crossing  lose  the  view.  To 
view  the  scene  properly,  the  visitor  should  cross  the  bridge  over  the 
Genesee  above  the  mill,  and  place  himself  immediately  in  front  of  the 
fall.  The  first  fall  is  80  rods  below  the  Aqueduct,  and  is  96  ft.  high. 
From  Table  Rock,  in  the  center  of  it,  Sam  Patch  made  his  last  and  fatal 
leap.  The  river  below  the  first  cataract  is  broad  and  deep,  and  is 
spanned  by  two  fine  iron  bridges,  with  occasional  rapids  to  the  second 
fall,  where  it  again  descends  perpendicularly  25  ft.  A  short  distance 
below  is  the  third  fall,  which  is  84  ft.  high.  Below  the  third  falls, 
navigation  is  good  to  Charlotte  and  Ontario  Beach,  about  5  miles,  mak- 
ing a  delightful  trip  in  summer.  These  places  are  connected  with 
Rochester  by  means  of  an  electric  railway,  Irondoquoit  Bay  and  the 
other  beaches  are  much  visited  in  summer,  and  daily  steamers  cross  the 
lake  to  Toronto  (70  miles). 

The  distance  from  Rochester  to  Buffalo  is  69  miles.  Of  the  five 
small  towns  en  route  the  only  one  requii-ing  mention  is  Batavia,  a 
pretty  village  of  7,221  inhabitants,  noted  as  the  site  of  the  State  Institu- 
tion for  the  Blind.,  one  of  the  finest  structures  of  its  kind  in  the  country. 

Buffalo. 

Hotels,  etc. — The  best  are  the  Iroquois  (absolutely  fire-proof),  Main, 
Eagle,  and  Washington  Sts.  ;  the  Niagara,  on  Front  and  Porter  Aves. ;  the 
Tifft  House,  the  Genesee,  and  the  Hotel  Broezel.  Horse  and  electric  cars  run 
through  the  principal  streets  and  to  the  suburbs.  Steamboats  run  to  the  prin- 
cipal ports  on  the  Great  Lakes  (see  Eoute  104).  Beading-rooms  at  the  Buffalo 
Public  and  Grosvenor  Libraries,  in  Lafayette  Square,  aiid  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A., 
Mohawk,  Pearl,  and  Genesee  Sts.  Post- Office  at  the  cor.  of  Washington  and 
Seneca  Sts. 

Buffalo,  the  third  city  in  size  in  the  State  of  New  York,  is  at  the 
mouth  of  Buffalo  River  and  head  of  Niagara  River,  at  the  E.  end  of 
Lake  Erie,  and  possesses  the  largest  and  finest  harbor  on  the  lake.  It 
is  the  terminus  of  the  Erie  Canal,  the  New  York  Central  R.  R.,  the  Erie 
R.  R.,  the  West  Shore  R.  R.,  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western 
R.  R.,  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.,  and  sixteen  other  railroads,  connecting 
it  with  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  city  has  a  water-front  of  several 
miles  upon  the  lake  and  rivers.  Its  commerce  is  very  large,  as  its 
position  at  the  foot  of  the  great  chain  of  lakes  makes  it  the  entrepot 
for  a  large  part  of  the  traffic  between  the  East  and  the  great  Noi'th- 
west.  The  lake  navigation  of  the  city  is  one  of  the  most  important 
elements  of  business.  The  manufactures  of  starch,  soap,  and  lumber, 
of  iron,  tin,  brass,  and  copper  ware  are  large.  Malting  and  brewing  are 
carried  on,  and  the  cattle,  lumber,  and  coal  and  iron  interests  have  de- 
veloped rapidly.  N"atural  gas  is  introduced.  Buffalo  was  first  settled 
in  1801 ;  it  became  a  military  post  during  the  War  of  1812,  and  was 
burned  by  a  force  of  Indians  and  British  in  1814;  and  it  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city  in  1832.  Since  the  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal  in 
1825  its  growth  has  been  very  rapid,  and  its  population  in  1890  was 
255,664. 

Buffalo,  in  the  main,  is  handsomely  built.     Its  streets  are  broad  and 


f 


Route  JfO.]  NEW    YOEK    TO    BUFFALO.  179 

straight,  and  for  the  most  part  laid  out  regularly.  Mam,  Niagara, 
Seneca,  Broadway,  North,  Linwood,  and  DelavKire  Aves.  are  the  prin- 
cipal thoroughfares.  The  streets  in  most  portions  are  bordered  with 
shade-trees.  Shade-trees  adorn  the  public  squares,  named  respectively 
Niagara,  Lafayette,  Franklin,  Johnson's,  Prospect,  and  the  Terrace. 
The  three  former  are  in  the  busiest  section  of  the  city.  Lafayette  con- 
tains the  Soldiers'  Monument,  built  at  a  cost  of  $50,000,  and  bank  and 
insurance  buildings.  A  portion  of  the  river  front  is  a  bold  bluff,  called 
*Th8  Front,  affording  fine  views  of  the  city,  river,  lake,  Canada  shore, 
and  the  hilly  country  to  the  S.  E.  On  this  bluff  stood  Fort  Porter,  and 
several  companies  of  U.  S.  infantry  are  stationed  here  in  barracks.  The 
prominent  public  buildings  are:  the  Cvstom- House  and  Post- Office,  a 
large  but  plain  freestone  edifice,  at  the  coi-.  of  Washington  and  Seneca 
Sts. ;  the  *  Board  of  Trade  Building-,  in  Seneca  St.;  the  *  State 
Arsenal,  in  Bi-oadway;  the  Mie  County  Penitentiary,  a  capacious 
biiilding  of  brick  and  stone ;  and  the  General  Hospitcd,  in  High  St. 
The  *  City  and  County  Hall,  a  splendid  and  spacious  granite  edi- 
fice fronting  on  Franklin  St.,  was  completed  in  1880  at  a  cost  of  nearly 
$1,400,000.  Several  of  the  bank  buildings  are  imposing  edifices,  espe- 
cially those  of  the  Erie  County,  the  Buffalo,  and  the  Iron  Banks,  and 
the  Western  Savings-Bank.  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  (Episcopal),  in 
Pearl  St.,  which  was  destroyed  by  an  explosion  of  gas.  May  10, 1888,  only 
the  walls  and  tower,  containing  a  fine  chime  of  bells,  being  left  stand- 
ing, has  been  restored;  *St.  Joseph's  Cathedral  (Roman  Catholic) 
is  in  Franklin  St.,  of  blue-stone  trimmed  with  white-stone,  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  a  chime  of  42  bells;  the  Delaware  Ave.  Methodist  Episco- 
pal, in  Delaware  St.;  *  Trinity  (P.  E.),  in  Delaware  Ave.;  the  Pirst 
Presbyterian  Church,  in  the  Circle ;  the  Congregationcd  Church,  cor. 
Elmwood  and  Bryant  Sts. ;  Calvary  (Presbyterian),  in  Delaware  St. ; 
and  the  St.  Zouis  (French  R.  C),  in  Main  St.  The  leading  educational 
institutions  are  the  Medical  College,  of  the  University  of  Buffalo,  in 
Main  St.,  and  the  Niagara  Medical  College  ;  Canisius  College,  a  Jesuit 
institution,  occupying  a  handsome  building  of  stone  and  brick  in  Wash- 
ington St.  near  Tupper ;  the  Biiffcdo  Law  School,  organized  as  a  depart- 
ment of  Niagara  University  in  1887  ;  St.  JosepMs  College,  on  the  terrace 
in  the  rear  of  St.  Joseph's  Cathedral,  conducted  by  the  Christian  Broth- 
ers ;  St.  Mary''s  Academy,  on  the  same  square,  in  Franklin  and  Church 
Sts. ;  the  Buffalo  Femcde  Academy  (Protestant),  in  Delaware  Ave. ;  the 
Heathcote  School,  in  Pearl  St.,  and  St.  Margarefs  School,  both  of  the 
Episcopal  Church ;  and  the  Stcde  Normal  School,  in  Jersey  St.,  a  large 
and  imposing  building.  The  *  Buffalo  Library,  in  Lafayette  Square, 
is  a  massive  structure,  containing  a  circulating  library  of  70,000  vol- 
umes ;  and  in  the  same  building  is  the  Buffalo  Historical  Society,  with  a 
library  of  10,000  volumes  and  cabinets,  the  Buffalo  Fine  Arts  Academy 
and  School  of  Art,  and  the  Society  of  Natural  Sciences,  with  a  very 
valuable  collection  of  minerals,  a  good  botanical  and  conchological  cabi- 
net, and  a  complete  set  of  Henry  A.  Ward's  fossil  casts.  Grosvenor 
Library,  also  in  Lafayette  Square,  is  a  public  library  for  reference, 
founded  by  a  bequest  of  Seth  Grosvenor,  of  Buffalo.     It  contains  about 


180  NEW    YORK   TO    BUFFALO.  [Route  JfO. 

33,000  volumes,  chiefly  important  books  not  easy  of  access  elsewhere. 
The  *  Music  Hall,  in  Main  St.;  the  Star  Theatre,  in  Mohawk  and 

Pearl  Sts. ;  the  Academy  of  Music,  in  Main  St. ;  Corinne''s  Lyceum,  in 
Washington  St.  ;  and  the  Court  St.  Theatre,  are  the  principal  places  of 
amusement.  The  Church  Charity  Foundation  (Episcopal),  in  Rhode 
Island  St.  near  Niagara,  embraces  a  home  for  aged  and  destitute  women, 
and  an  orphan  ward.  The  Ingledde  Home,  with  a  building  in  Michigan 
St.,  is  designed  for  the  reclamation  of  fallen  women,  and  has  been  very 
successful  since  its  organization  in  1869.  The  Buffcdo  Orphan  Asylum 
(Protestant)  has  commodious  buildings  in  Virginia  St. ;  and  the  St.  Vin- 
cent Female  Orphan  Asylum,  cor.  Main  and  Riley  Sts.,  and  the  St.  Josejjhh 
Boys'  Orphan  Asylum,  at  Limestone  Hill,  are  large  Roman  Catholic 
institutions.  The  *  State  Insane  Asylum,  in  Forest  Ave.,  stand- 
ing in  grounds  of  203  acres,  adjoins  the  Buffalo  Park.  Visitors  are 
allowed  to  enter  every  Thursday.  The  Fitch  Institiote  is  at  the  cor.  of 
Michigan  and  Swan  Sts.  The  buildings  of  the  Women's  Educational 
and  Industrial  Union  and  the  Women's  Christian  Association  are  in 
Niagara  Sq. 

A  superb  public  *  Park,  or  system  of  parks,  has  been  designed  and 
laid  out  by  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  the  architect  of  Central  Park  in 
New  York  City.  The  land  embraces  about  512  acres,  and  is  divided 
into  three  plots,  situated  in  the  western  (river  front),  northern,  and  east- 
ern parts  of  the  city,  with  broad  boulevards,  forming  a  continuous  drive 
of  over  10  miles.  The  *  Forest  Lawn  Cemetery,  bounded  on  two 
sides  by  the  Park,  contains  some  fine  monuments,  among  them  that  of 
President  Fillmore,  the  Indian  chief  Red  Jacket,  and  of  Gen.  Alfred  J. 
Myers,  founder  of  the  United  States  Signal  Service  Coi-ps.  Near  the  en- 
trance is  the  elaborate  Crematory,  erected  in  1 883.  At  Black  Rock,  the 
northern  part  of  Buffalo  (reached  by  Niagara  St.),  the  magnificent  *  In- 
ternational Bridge,  completed  in  1873  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000, 
ci'osses  the  Niagara  River  to  the  Canadian  villages  of  Fort  Erie  and 
Victoria.  jSfiagara  Falls  (see  p.  181)  are  22  miles  from  Buffalo  via 
N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.,  23  miles  via  Erie  R.  R.,  and  26  miles  via  Canada 
Division  of  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R. 

No  visitor  should  leave  Buffalo  without  having  seen  the  great  canal- 
basins,  the  parks,  the  grain-elevators,  and  some  of  the  iron-works.  The 
Buffcdo  River  may  be  seen  to  good  advantage  by  going  to  the  foot  of 
Main  St.,  where  excursion  boats  run  to  the  resorts  on  the  lake  and  river. 
The  large  Union  Passenger  Station  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  and  Erie  R.  Rs., 
and  the  immense  coal-chutes  of  the  various  roads,  are  also  worth  a  visit. 

Rochester  to  Niagara  Falls. 
At  Rochester  the  Niagara  Falls  branch  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  di- 
verges from  the  main  line  and  runs  to  the  Falls  in  '7'7  miles.  A  very  large 
portion  of  the  through  travel  and  traffic  between  the  East  and  the  West 
passes  over  this  line  by  way  of  the  Niagara  Cantilever  Bridge  and  the 
Michigan  Central  R.  R.  to  Detroit.  Rochester  is  described  on  p.  1*76. 
Leaving  Rochester  the  train  runs  thi-ough  a  rich  agricultm^al  region, 
passing  two  or  three  small  stations  to  Brockport  (1 7  miles  from  Roch- 


Route  Jf,0.'\  NEW    YORK    TO    BIXPFALO.  181 

ester),  a  pretty  village  of  3, 74  2  inhabitants  on  the  Erie  Canal,  contain- 
ing the  fine  building  of  the  State  Xormal  School.  Albion  (30  miles)  is 
another  attractive  village,  capital  of  Orleans  County,  with  a  handsome 
Court-House  and  a  costly  Soldiers'  Monument.  Medina  (41  miles)  is 
noted  for  its  quarries  of  dark-red  sandstone,  known  as  "  Medina  sand- 
stone"; and  16  miles  beyond  is  Liockpert  (^American^  Grand^  and 
Niagara)^  a  city  of  16,038  inhabitants,  famous  for  its  limestone- 
quarries  and  its  manufacture  of  flour.  It  is  situated  at  the  point 
where  the  Erie  Canal  descends  by  ten  double  locks  from  the  level  of 
Lake  Erie  to  the  Genesee  level.  These  locks  may  be  seen  from  the 
cars.  By  means  of  them  an  immense  water-power  is  obtained,  which  is 
utilized  by  the  factories  and  flour-mills.  Nineteen  miles  beyond  Lockport 
is  Suspeiision  Bridge  (448  miles  from  New  York),  which  has  been  regard- 
ed as  one  of  the  triumphs  of  modern  engineering.  Over  this  the  trains 
of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  cross  the  Niagara  River  within  full  view  of 
the  Falls  and  of  the  Whirlpool.  It  is  821  ft.  long  from  tower  to  tow- 
er, is  245  ft.  above  the  water,  and  was  finished  in  1855,  at  a  cost  of 
$500,000.  A  carriage  and  foot  way  is  suspended  28  ft.  below  the  railway- 
tracks.  A  still  more  remarkalile  triumph  of  engineering,  however,  is  the 
*  Niagara  Cantilever  Bridge,  built  by  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R. 
and  completed  in  November,  1883,  over  which  all  trains  of  this  road 
pass.  It  is  located  about  300  ft.  above  the  Railroad  Suspension  Bridge, 
just  over  the  head  of  the  W^hirlpool  Rapids  and  in  full  front  of  the 
cataract.  It  is  constructed  entirely  of  steel,  and  is  the  first  bridge  of 
the  kind  built  in  the  world.  Its  essential  principle  is  that  of  a  trussed 
beam  supported  at  its  center  on  a  steel  tower,  the  landward  end  being 
securely  anchored.  The  cantilever  arms  meet  each  other  at  the  center 
of  the  bridge.  The  bridge  is  designed  to  bear  a  running  load  of  a  ton 
per  foot.  The  total  length  of  the  bridge  is  895  ft. ;  length  of  fixed 
span,  125  ft. ;  height  of  abutments,  50  ft. ;  height  of  clear  span  above 
the  river,  245  ft.  ;  length  of  clear  span  across  the  river,  500  ft. ;  height 
of  steel  towers,  130  ft. ;  length  of  cantilevers,  375  and  395  ft. ;  total 
Aveight  resting  on  columns,  1,600  tons.  There  is  a  double  track  over 
the  bridge.  The  engineers  were  Messrs.  C.  C.  Schneider  and  Edmund 
Hayes. 

Niagara  Falls. 

Hotels,  etc.— On  the  American  side  are  the  International  Hotel  (European 
plan)  and  the  Cataract  House  (both  close  to  the  Falls,  and  near  the  rapids), 
KattenhacK' s  (fronting  the  State  Park  and  rapids),  and  the  ProsiMct  House  (cor. 
of  Union  and  2d  Sts.),  transferred  from  the  Canadian  shore  on  the  formation 
of  Queen  Victoria  Park.  The  Clifton  House^  on  the  Canada  side,  is  a  high 
class  hotel. 

Carriages  at  reasonable  rates  may  be  secured  either  on  the  train  or  at  the 
carriage-stands.  Park  or  Reservation  carriages  may  also  be  secured  at  a  small 
charge.  The  legal  tariff  is  %2  per  hour,  but  special  terms  can  be  made.  Besides 
the  price  agreed  upon  for  the  carriage,  the  tourist  will  have  to  pay  aU  tolls. 
There  are  scarcely  any  points  of  interest  connected  with  the  Falls  which  are  not 
within  walking  distance  ;  especially  if  a  day  or  two  can  be  devoted  to  the  Amer- 
ican side  and  the  same  length  of  time  to  the  Canadian  side.  Moreover,  in  the 
number  and  variety  of  the  attractions  seen,  the  pedestrian  will  be  apt  to  enjoy 
an  advantage  over  the  carriage-traveler.    Street-cars  run  to  Suspension  Bridge. 


182 


NEW    YOEK    TO   BUFFALO. 


[Boute  40. 


The  Falls  of  Niagara  are  situated  on  the  Niagara  Eiver,  about  22 
miles  from  Lake  Erie  and  14  miles  from  Lake  Ontario.  This  river  is 
the  channel  by  which  all  the  waters  of  the  four  great  upper  lakes  flow 
toward  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  a  total  descent  of  333  ft.,  leav- 
ing Lake  Ontario  still  231  ft.  above  the  sea.  From  the  N.  E.  extremity  of 
Lake  Erie  the  Niagara  flows  in  a  N.  direction  with  a  swift  current  for  the 
first  2  miles,  and  then  more  gently  with  a  widening  current,  which  di- 


Niagara  Falls  and  Vicinity. 

vides  as  a  portion  passes  on  each  side  of  Grand  Island.  As  these  unite 
below  the  island,  the  sti-eam  spreads  out  to  2  or  3  miles  in  width,  and 
appears  like  a  quiet  lake  studded  with  small,  low  islands.  About  16 
miles  from  Lake  Erie  the  current  becomes  narrow  and  begins  to  de- 
scend with  great  velocity.     This  is  the  commencement  of  the  Rapids, 


Boute  JfO.]  NEW   YORK    TO    BUFFALO.  183 

which  continue  for  about  a  mile,  the  waters  accomplishing  in  this  dis- 
tance a  fall  of  52  ft.  The  Kapids  terminate  below  in  a  great  cataract, 
the  descent  of  which  is  164  ft.  on  the  American  side  and  158  ft.  on  the 
Canadian.  At  this  point  the  river,  making  a  curve  from  W.  to  N., 
spreads  out  to  an  extreme  width  of  4,750  ft.,  embracing  Goat  and  the 
Three  Sister  Islands.  Goat  Island,  which  extends  down  to  the  brink  of 
the  cataract,  occupies  about  one  fourth  of  this  space,  leaving  the  river 
on  the  American  side  about  1,100  ft.  wide,  and  on  the  Canadian  side 
about  double  this  width.  The  line  along  the  verge  of  the  Canadian  Fall 
is  much  longer  than  the  breadth  of  this  portion  of  the  river,  by  reason 
of  its  horseshoe  form,  the  curve  extending  up  the  central  part  of  the 
current.  The  waters  sweeping  down  the  Rapids  form  a  grand  curve  as 
they  fall  clear  of  the  rocky  wall. into  the  deep  pool  at  the  base.  In  the 
profound  chasm  below  the  fall,  the  current,  contracted  in  width  to  less 
than  1,000  ft.,  is  tossed  tumultuously  about,  and  forms  great  whirlpools 
and  eddies  as  it  is  borne  along  its  rapidly  descending  bed.  Dangerous 
as  it  appears,  the  river  is  here  crossed  by  small  row-boats,  which  are 
reached  from  the  banks  above  by  an  inclined  railroad,  and  the  Maid  of 
the  Mist,  a  small  steamer,  makes  frequent  trips  to  the  edge  of  the 
Falls.  For  7  miles  below  the  Falls  the' narrow  gorge  continues,  varying 
in  width  from  200  to  400  yards.  The  river  then  emerges  at  Lewiston 
into  a  lower  district,  having  descended  104  ft.  from  the  foot  of  the 
cataract. 

The  gorge  through  which  the  Niagara  River  flows  below  the  Falls 
bears  evidence  of  having  been  excavated  by  the  river  itself.  Within 
comparatively  recent  years  changes  have  taken  place  by  the  falling 
down  of  masses  of  rock,  the  effect  of  which  has  been  to  cause  a  slight 
recession  of  the  cataract,  and  extend  the  gorge  to  the  same  degree  up- 
ward toward  Lake  Erie.  Thus  in  1818  great  fragments  descended  at 
the  Horseshoe  Fall,  and  since  1855  several  others,  which  have  materially 
changed  the  aspect  of  the  Falls.  Table  Rock,  once  a  striking  feature, 
has  wholly  disappeared.  Sir  Charles  Lyell  estimates  the  rate  of  recession 
to  be  about  a  foot  a  year,  but  the  rate  is  not  uniform.  For  several  suc- 
cessive years  there  will  be  no  apparent  change ;  and  then,  the  soft  un- 
derlying strata  having  been  gradually  worn  away,  great  masses  of  the 
upper  harden  ones  fall  down,  causing  a  very  noticeable  change  in  a  very 
brief  time.  At  the  present  site  of  the  Falls  a  layer  of  hard  limestone 
rock,  of  the  formation  known  as  the  Niagara  limestone,  covers  the 
surface  of  the  country,  and  forms  the  edge  of  the  cataract  to  the  depth 
of  between  80  and  90  ft.  Professor  James  Hall,  State  geologist  of  New 
York,  points  out  that,  after  a  further  recession  of  about  2  miles,  this 
limestone  layer,  with  the  soft  layers  under  it,  will  have  been  swept 
away,  and  the  Fall  will  become  almost  stationary  on  the  lower  sandstone 
formation,  with  a  height  of  only  80  feet.  As,  however,  it  will  take 
rather  more  than  10,000  years  to  excavate  this  2  miles,  the  tourists  of 
our  day  need  feel  no  alarm  lest  the  stupendous  torrent  dwindle  beneath 
their  gaze !  In  regard  to  the  volume  of  water  which  passes  over  the 
Falls,  Sir  Charles  Lyell  estimates  it  at  90,000,000,000  cubic  ft.  an  hour. 

*  Goat  Island  is  the  point  usually  visited  first.     It  is  reached  by  a 


184  KEW  YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Uoute  1^0. 

bridge  360  ft.  long,  the  approach  to  which  is  about  midway  in  the  State 
reservation.  The  bridge  itself  is  an  object  of  interest,  from  its  apparently 
dangerous  position.  It  is,  however,  perfectly  safe,  and  is  crossed  con- 
stantly by  heavily  laden  carriages.  The  view  of  the  *  Rapids  from 
the  bridge  is  one  of  the  most  impressive  features  of  the  Niagara  scenery. 
The  river  descends  52  feet  in  a  distance  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile  by 
this  inextricable  turmoil  of  waters.  Below  the  bridge,  a  short  distance 
from  the  verge  of  the  American  Fall,  is  Chapiii's  Island^  so  named  in 
memory  of  a  workman  who  fell  into  the  stream  while  at  work  on  the 
bridge.  He  lodged  on  this  islet  and  was  rescued  by  a  Mr.  Robinson, 
who  gallantly  went  to  his  relief  in  a  skiff.  About  midway  of  the 
stream  the  road  crosses  Bath  Island.  From  the  island  end  of  the 
bridge  three  paths  diverge,  that  to  the  right  being  the  one  usually 
followed. 

A  short  walk  brings  us  to  the  foot-bridge  leading  to  LiUisa  Island, 
a  huge  rock-mass  of  some  three  quarters  of  an  acre,  lying  between  the 
Center  Fall  and  the  American  Fall.  The  exquisite  lunar  rainbows  seen 
at  this  point,  when  the  moon  is  full,  have  given  it  the  name  it  bears. 
The  width  of  the  American  Fall  from  Luna  Island  is  over  1,100 
ft.,  and  the  precipice  over  which  it  plunges  is  16*7  ft.  high.  Just 
beyond  Luna  Island  a  spiral  stairway  (called  "  Biddle's  Stairs,"  after 
Nicholas  Biddle,  of  United  States  Bank  fame,  by  whose  order  they 
were  built)  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  clifE.  From  the  foot  of  the  stairs, 
which  are  secured  to  the  rocks  by  strong  iron  fastenings,  there  are  two 
diverging  paths.  That  to  the  right  leads  to  the  *  Cave  of  the  Winds, 
a  spacious  recess  back  of  the  Center  Fall.  Guides  and  water-proof  suits 
for  visiting  the  Cave  may  be  obtained  at  the  stairs  (fee,  $1.00),  and  the 
excursion  is  well  worth  making.  You  can  pass  safely  into  the  recess 
behind  the  water,  to  a  platform  beyond.  Magical  rainbow  pictures  are 
found  at  this  spot ;  sometimes  bows  of  entire  circles,  and  two  or  three 
at  once,  are  seen.  A  plank-walk  has  been  carried  out  to  a  cluster  of 
rocks  near  the  foot  of  the  fall,  and  from  it  one  of  the  best  *  views  of 
the  American  Fall  may  be  obtained.  The  up-river  way,  along  the  base 
of  the  cliff  toward  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  is  difficult,  and  much  obstructed 
by  fallen  rocks.  It  was  from  a  point  near  Biddle's  Stairs  that  the  re- 
nowned jumper,  Sam  Patch,  made  two  successful  leaps  inuo  the  waters 
below  (in  1829),  saying  to  the  throng  of  spectators,  as  he  went  off,  that 
"  one  thing  might  be  done  as  well  as  another."  Reascending  the  stairs, 
a  few  minutes'  walk  along  the  summit  of  the  cliff  brings  us  to  a  bridge 
leading  to  the  islet  on  which  stood  the  famous  Terrapin  Tower,  which, 
having  become  dangerous,  was  blown  up  with  gunpowder  in  1873.  The 
view  of  the  *  Horseshoe  Fall  from  this  point  is  surpassingly  grand. 
The  mighty  cataract  has  a  contour  of  3,010  ft.,  with  a  perpendicular 
plunge  of  158  ft.,  and  it  is  estimated  that  15,000,000  cubic  feet  of 
water  pass  over  the  ledges  every  minute.  One  of  the  condemned  lake- 
ships  (the  Detroit)  was  sent  over  this  Fall  in  1829  ;  and  though  she  drew 
18  ft.  of  watei",  she  did  not  touch  the  rocks  in  passing  over  the  brink  of 
the  precipice,  showing  that  the  water  is  at  least  20  ft.  deep  above  the 
ledge.     Lately  the  rocks  have  broken  away,  altering  the  appearance  of 


Niagara  Falls  from  Prospect  Pari: 


Route  JtO:\  NEW   YOEK   TO    BUFFALO.  185 

the  Horseshoe  Falls.  Also,  the  building  of  the  water- works  pump-house 
has  changed  the  formation  of  the  water,  to  carry  it  away  from  this 
point ;  so  tourists  now  can  not  get  behind  the  main  sheet  of  Avater. 

At  the  other  end  of  Goat  Island  (reached  by  a  road  from  the  Horse- 
shoe Fall),  a  series  of  graceful  bridges  leads  to  the  *  Three  Sisters, 
as  three  small  islets  lying  in  the  Rapids  are  called.  The  islands  are 
rugged  masses  of  rock,  covered  with  a  profuse  and  tangled  vegetation, 
and  afford  fine  views  of  the  Rapids  at  their  widest  and  wildest  part. 
On  Goat  Island,  near  the  Three  Sisters,  is  the  Hermifs  Bathing-Place^ 
so  called  after  Francis  Abbott,  "the  Hermit  of  Niagara,"  who  used 
to  bathe  here,  and  who  was  finally  drowned  while  doing  so.  At  the 
foot  of  Grand  Island,  near  the  Canada  shore,  is  Navy  Iskmd,  which 
was  the  scene  of  some  interesting  incidents  in  the  Canadian  Rebellion  of 
ISSY-'SS,  known  as  the  Mackenzie  War.  Chippetva^  Avhich  held  at  that 
period  some  5,000  British  troops,  is  upon  the  Canadian  shore,  nearly 
opposite.  It  was  near  Schlosser  Landing,  about  2  miles  above  the 
Falls,  on  the  American  side,  that  during  the  war  the  American  steam- 
er Caroline,  which  had  been  perverted  to  the  use  of  the  insurgents, 
was  set  on  fire  and  sent  over  the  Falls,  by  the  order  of  Sir  Allan 
McNab,  a  Canadian  ofiicer.  Above  Navy  Island  is  Grand  Island 
(17,000  acres),  somev\'hat  noted  as  the  spot  on  which,  in  1820,  Major 
Mordecai  M.  Noah  founded  "Ararat,  a  city  of  refuge  for  the  Jews," 
in  the  vain  hope  of  assembling  there  all  the  Hebrew  population  of  the 
world. 

The  State  of  New  York  purchased,  in  1885,  the  property  bordering 
the  Falls,  and  laid  out  Niagara  Park,  to  be  controlled  by  a  State 
Commission,  empowered  to  remove  all  obstructions  to  the  view,  and  to 
improve  the  grounds.  No  charge  is  made  for  admission  to  Niagara 
Park.  A  "vertical  railway,"  running  on  a  steep  incline,  leads  from 
the  Park  to  the  base  of  the  cliff ;  and  from  its  foot  the  river  may  be 
crossed  in  the  steamboat  the  Maid  of  the  3Iist  (trip,  50c.).  The  pas- 
sage across  the  x^iver  is  perfectly  safe,  and  is  worth  making  for  the  very 
fine  *  view  of  the  Falls  obtained  in  mid-stream.  A  winding  road  along 
the  cliff-side  leads  from  the  landing  on  the  Canadian  side  to  the  top  of 
the  bluff  near  the  bridge.  By  climbing  over  the  rocks  at  the  base  of 
the  cliff  on  the  American  side  (turn  to  the  left  after  descending  the 
railway),  the  tourist  may  penetrate  to  a  point  within  the  spray  of  the 
American  Fall,  and  get  what  is  perhaps,  on  the  whole,  the  finest  view 
of  it  to  be  had. 

The  usual  way  of  crossing  to  the  Canadian  side  is  over  the  *  Sus- 
pension Bridge,  which  arches  the  river  about  ^  of  a  mile  below 
the  Falls,  and  is  one  of  the  curiosities  of  the  locality  (fee  for  pedes- 
trians, 25c.).  It  was  finished  in  1869,  at  a  cost  of  $1*75,000;  is  1,190 
ft.  from  cliff  to  cliff,  1,268  ft.  from  tower  to  tower,  and  190  ft.  above 
the  river;  and  it  was  widened  in  1888,  all  the  wooden  parts  of  the 
structure  being  replaced  by  iron.  It  was  carried  away  by  the  gale  of 
January  10,  1889,  but  has  been  rebuilt.  The  tower  on  the  American 
side  is  100  ft.  high,  and  that  on  the  Canadian  side  105  ft.  Here  is  situ- 
ated the  Clifton  House,  from  which  a  tine  view  of  the  Falls  is  obtained. 


186  NEW   YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Route  Jf-O. 

A  road  to  the  left  from  the  bridge  terminus  leads  along  the  cliff,  afford- 
ing good  views  of  the  American  and  Center  Falls.  A  short  distance 
above  the  terrace  near  the  Falls  is  the  spot  still  called  *  Table  Rock, 
though  the  immense  overhanging  platform  originally  known  by  that 
name  has  long  since  fallen  over  the  precipice.  From  this  point  a 
general  view  of  the  Falls  is  obtained,  and  that  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall 
is  incomparably  grand.  The  concussion  of  the  falling  waters  with  those 
in  the  depths  below  produces  a  spray  that  veils  the  cataract  two  thirds 
up  its  height.  Above  this  impenetrable  foam,  to  the  height  of  50  ft. 
above  the  Fall,  a  cloud  of  lighter  spray  rises,  which,  with  the  prevailing 
southeast  Avind  blows  the  spray  over  the  buildings  and  surroundings. 
The  appropriateness  of  the  name  Niagara  ("  Thunder  of  Waters  ")  is 
very  evident  here.  Continuing  on  through  Queen  Victoria  Park  we 
come  to  Dufferin  Islands,  from  which  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the 
rapids  above  the  Falls  is  to  be  had. 

Guides  and  water-proof  suits  for  the  passage  under  the  Horseshoe  Falls  maj' 
be  procured  at  Table  Eock  (fee,  .50  c).  This  passage  (which  no  nervous  person 
should  attempt)  is  described  as  follows  in  "Picturesque  America"  :  "The 
wooden  stairways  are  narrow  and  steep,  but  perfectly  safe  ;  and  a  couple  of 
minutes  brings  us  to  the  bottom.  Here  we  are  in  a  spray-land  indeed  ;  for 
we  have  hardly  begun  to  traverse  the  pathway  of  broken  bits  of  shale  when, 
with  a  mischievous  sweep,  the  wind  sends  a  baby  cataract  in  our  direction,  and 
fairly  inundates  us.  The  mysterious  gloom,  with  the  thundering  noises  of  the 
falling  waters,  impresses  every  one  ;  but,  as  the  pathway  is  broad,  and  the 
walking  easy,  newcomers  are  apt  to  think  there  is  nothing  in  it.  The  tall,  stal- 
wart negro,  who  acts  as  guide,  listens  with  amusement  to  such  comments,  and 
confidently  awaits  a  change  in  the  tone  of  the  scoffers.  More  and  more  arched 
do  the  rocks  become  as  we  proceed.  The  top  part  is  of  hard  limestone,  and  the 
lower  of  shale,  which  has  been  so  battered  away  by  the  fury  of  the  waters  that 
there  is  an  arched  passage  behind  the  entire  Horseshoe  Fall,  which  could  easily 
be  traversed  if  the  currents  of  air  would  let  us  pass.  But,  as  we  proceed,  we 
begin  to  notice  that  it  blows  a  trifle,  and  from  every  one  of  the  32  points  of  the 
compass.  At  first,  however,  we  get  them  separately.  A  gust  at  a  time  inun- 
dates us  with  spray  ;  but  the  farther  we  march  the  more  unruly  is  the  Prince  of 
Air.  First,  like  single  spies,  come  his  winds  ;  but  soon  they  advance  like  skir- 
mishers ;  and,  at  last,  where  a  thin  column  of  water  falls  across  the  path,  they 
oppose  a  solid  phalanx  to  our  efforts.  It  is  a  point  of  honor  to  see  who  can  go 
farthest  through  these  corridors  of  JSolus.  It  is  on  record  that  a  man,  with 
an  herculean  effort,  once  burst  through  the  column  of  water,  but  was  im- 
mediately thrown  to  the  ground,  and  only  rejoined  his  comrades  by  crawl- 
ing face  downward,  and  digging  his  hands  into  the  loose  shale  of  the  path- 
way. Professor  John  Tyndall  has  gone  as  far  as  mortal  man,  and  he  describes 
the  buffeting  of  the  air  as  indescribable,  the  effect  being  like  actual  blows 
with  the  fist." 

Termination  Rock  is  a  short  distance  beyond  Table  Rock  at  the 
verge  of  the  Fall.  The  spray  here  is  blinding  and  the  roar  of  waters 
deafening. 

Below  the  Falls  are  several  points  of  interest,  which  are  best  visited 
on  the  American  side.  The  first  of  these  is  the  Susjjension  Bridge, 
which  spans  the  g^rge  2  miles  below  the  Falls,  and  supports  railway- 
tracks,  a  roadway,  and  footways.  The  bridge  is  245  ft.  above  the 
water,  and  supported  by  towers  on  each  bank,  the  centers  of  which 
are  821  ft.  apart.  It  was  built  in  1855  by  John  A.  Roebling,  and  cost 
$500,000.  The  fee  for  crossing  the  bridge  is  25c.  for  pedestrians, 
which  confers  the  rig-ht  to  return  free  on  the  same  dav.     From  one  side 


Route  J^l.]  NEW    YORK    TO    BUFFALO.  187 

of  this  bridge  a  fine  distant  view  of  the  Falls  is  had,  and  from  the  other 
a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  seething  and  tumultuous  *  Whirlpool  Rapids. 
Three  hundred  feet  above  may  be  seen  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R. 
Cantilever  Bridge  (see  p.  181).  By  descending  the  elevator  which 
leads  from  the  top  to  the  base  of  the  cliff  near  the  site  of  the  old 
Monteagle  House,  a  nearer  view  is  obtained  of  these  wonderful  Rapids, 
in  which  the  waters  rush  along  with  such  velocity  that  the  middle  of 
the  current  is  30  ft.  higher  than  the  sides.  Three  miles  below  the  Falls 
is  the  *  Whirlpool,  occasioned  by  a  sharp  bend  in  the  river  which  is 
here  contracted  to  a  width  of  220  ft. 

Since  the  acquisition  of  the  land  near  the  Falls  on  the  American 
side  by  the  State  of  New  York,  the  labors  of  the  commission  appointed 
to  lay  out  the  ground  have  caused  many  changes  in  the  old  landmarks, 
and  still  more  are  contemplated.  Unsightly  buildings  have  been  re- 
moved, roads  and  pathways  laid  out,  and  trees  planted  where  they  add 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  great  tunnel  in  course  of  construction, 
Ijy  means  of  which  power  will  be  obtained  from  the  waterfall,  is  on  the 
American  side. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Niagara  is  Lewiston  {*!  miles  N.),  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  Lake  Ontario;  and  directly  opposite  (on  the  Canadian 
side)  is  Queeuston.  Queenston  is  well  worth  a  visit,  and  affords  a 
pleasant  drive  from  the  Falls.  It  is  historically  as  well  as  pictorially 
interesting.  Here  General  Brock  and  his  aide-de-camp  fell,  October 
11,  1812.  "'Brock's  Monument,  which  crowns  the  heights  above 
the  village,  is  185  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  dome  of  9  ft.,  which  is 
reached  by  a  spiral  flight  of  250  steps  inside.  The  remains  of  Brock 
and  his  comrade  lie  in  stone  sarcophagi  beneath,  having  been  removed 
thither  from  Fort  George.  This  is  the  second  monument  erected  on  the 
spot,  the  first  having  been  destroyed  by  the  scoundrel  Lett,  in  1840. 
At  iJi-itmmondville,  1^  mile  W.  of  the  Falls,  is  a  tower  which  overlooks 
the  battle-field  of  Lundy's  Lane.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River, 
on  the  Canadian  side,  is  Niagara  on  the  Lake^  a  favorite  summer  resort 
[Queenh  Royal  Hotel). 

41.  New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls. 

Via  Erie  Eailway.  Distances  :  To  Middletown,  64  miles  ;  to  Port  Jervis, 
88  ;  to  Susquehamia,  103  :  to  Binghamtoii,  215  ;  to  Elroira.  274  ;  to  HorneUi?- 
ville,  332  ;  to  Buffalo,  423  ;  to  INiagara  Falls,  442.  The  time  to  Buffalo  or 
Niagara  Falls  is  about  14  hours,  and  the  fare  $9.25. 

The  Erie  Railway  is  one  of  the  greatest  triumphs  of  engineering 
skill  in  this  or  any  other  country,  and  affords  some  of  the  grandest  and 
most  varied  scenery  to  be  found  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Prior  to 
its  construction,  portions  of  the  line  were  considered  impassable  to  any 
other  than  a  winged  creature,  yet  mountains  were  scaled  or  pierced  and 
river-cafions  passed  by  blasting  a  path  from  the  face  of  stupendous  pre- 
cipices ;  gorges  of  fearful  depth  were  spanned  by  bi-idges  swung  into  the 
air;  and  broad,  deep  valleys  crossed  by  massive  viaducts.  The  road 
was  begun  in  1836  and  completed  in  1851,  and  has  cost  to  date  upward 


188  NEW   YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Route  41. 

of  $60,000,000.  Palace  drawing-room  and  sleeping  cars  are  attached 
to  all  the  through  trains. 

The  terminal  station  in  Jersey  City  is  reached  by  ferry  from  foot  of 
Chambers  St.  and  W.  23d  St.  Leaving  Jersey  City  the  train  traverses 
a  series  of  salt  marshes,  and  in  lY  miles  reaches  Paterson  (Hamilton 
House^  Franklin).,  a  busy  manufacturing  city  of  78,347  inhabitants,  sit- 
uated on  the  right  bank  of  the  Passaic  River  immediately  below  the 
falls.  It  was  founded  in  1791  by  Alexander  Hamilton,  in  the  cotton  in- 
terest, and  its  cotton-factories  are  now  very  extensive.  Its  most  im- 
portant interest,  however,  is  silk-manufacturing,  for  which  it  has  30 
factories,  employing  about  8,000  persons,  and  turning  out  a  product  of 
$4,000,000.  It  has  also  extensive  manufacturing  interests  in  velvet, 
woolen,  linen,  locomotives,  heavy  machinery.  The  total  product  of 
Paterson  manufactures  is  upward  of  $20,000,000,  employing  a  capital 
of  about  $10,000,000.  Next  to  Newark  it  is  the  largest  manufacturing- 
city  of  New  Jersey.  The  *  Passaic  Falls  have  a  perpendicular  descent  of 
50  ft.,  and  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  picturesque.  A  small  and 
rugged  park  surrounds  them ;  and  on  a  hill  in  the  vicinity  are  a  costly 
Soldiers'  Monument  and  a  belvedere  tower  whence  there  is  a  fine  view. 
Beyond  Paterson  the  route  traverses  a  fertile  but  uninteresting  country, 
and  just  this  side  of  Stiff  em  (32  miles)  crosses  the  boundary-line  and 
enters  New  York  State.  From  Suffern  a  branch  line  runs  in  18  miles  to 
Piermont  on  the  Hudson  River  (see  p.  68).  Here  the  beautiful  Ramapo 
Valley  begins,  and  the  scenery  becomes  increasingly  picturesque  and  im- 
pressive. Ramapo  (34  miles)  is  near  Torne  Mountain  (1,180  ft.),  from  the 
summit  of  which  there  is  a  Avide-extended  view.  During  the  campaign  of 
1777  Washington  often  ascended  this  mountain  to  watch  the  movements 
of  the  British  army  and  fleet  around  New  York.  Beyond  Sloatshurg  (36 
miles),  on  the  right,  are  seen  the  ruins  of  the  Augusta  Iron-Works, 
where  was  forged  the  chain  that  was  stretched  across  the  Hudson  to 
check  the  advance  of  the  British  ships.  The  next  station  is  Tuxedo., 
well  known  for  its  park,  which  contains  the  cottages  of  many  of  the 
fashionable  set  of  New  York  city.  At  Turners  (48  miles)  a  branch 
road  diverges  to  Newburg  on  the  Hudson  (see  p.  71).  From  Mon- 
roe (50  miles)  and  also  from  Greycourt  (54  miles)  stages  run  m  8  to 
10  miles  to  *  Greenwood  Liake  {Brandon.,  Traphagen.,  and  Winder- 
m.ere\  a  highly  popular  summer  resort,  which  is  also  reached  from  New 
York  via  New  York  &  Greenwood  Lake  R.  R.  (48  miles).  This  "  minia- 
ture Lake  George"  is  a  beautiful,  river-like  body  of  water,  10  miles  long 
and  1  mile  wide,  nearly  inclosed  by  mountains,  and  oifering  some  ex- 
tx'emely  picturesque  scenery.  Its  waters  are  clear  and  deep,  and  abound 
in  fish.  A  small  steamer  plies  on  the  lake,  making  daily  trips.  In 
the  vicinity  are  the  smaller  but  scarcely  less  charming  Lakes  Macopin, 
Sterling,  and  W^awayanda.  Turner's  is  the  most  attractive  station  on 
this  portion  of  the  line,  and  is  near  some  lovely  little  lakes.  The  view 
from  the  hill  N.  of  the  station  is  superb,  the  Hudson  River,  with  Fish- 
kill  and  Newburg,  being  in  sight. 

From  Greycourt  another  branch  line  runs  to  Newburg  in  18  miles, 
and  the  Lehigh  &  Hudson  R,  R.  diverges  to  Warwick.    On  the  main  line,  6 


Route  41.]  I^EW    YORK    TO    BUFFALO.  189 

miles  beyond  Greycourt,  is  the  pretty  little  village  of  Goshen,  one  of  the 
capitals  of  Orange  County,  and  celebrated  for  its  milk,  butter,  and 
cheese.  Here  the  Wallkill  Yalley  R.  R.  diverges  and  runs  in  43  miles 
to  Kingston  and  Rondout  on  the  Hudson  (see  p.  Yl),  passing  N'ew  Paltz, 
whence  stages  run  in  6  miles  to  Lake  Molionk  (see  p.  71).  Seven  miles 
beyond  Goshen,  at  the  crossing  of  the  New  York,  Ontario  &  Western  R. 
R.,  is  the  busy  manufacturing  village  of  Middletown  (see  p.  194).  Four 
miles  beyond,  at  HowelVs  (71  miles),  the  most  picturesque  section  of  the 
line  begins,  and  tine  views  are  had  all  the  way  to  Port  Jervis.  On  ap- 
proaching Otisville  CJG  miles),  the  eye  is  attracted  by  the  bold  flanks  of 
the  Shawangunk  Mountain,  the  passage  of  which  great  barrier  (once 
deemed  insurmountable)  is  a  fine  achievement  of  engineering  skill.  A 
mile  beyond  Otisville,  after  traversing  an  ascending  grade  of  40  ft.  to  the 
mile,  the  road  runs  through  a  rock-cutting  50  ft.  deep  and  2,500  ft.  long. 
This  passed,  the  summit  of  the  ascent  is  reached,  and  thence  we  go  down 
the  mountain's  side  many  sloping  miles  to  the  valley  beneath,  through  the 
midst  of  grand  and  picturesque  scenery.  Onward  the  way  increases  in  in- 
terest, until  it  opens  in  a  glimpse,  away  over  the  valley,  of  the  mountain- 
spur  known  as  the  CuddebacJc  ;  and  at  its  base  the  glittering  water  is  seen, 
now  for  the  first  time,  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal.  Eight  miles 
beyond  Otisville  we  are  imprisoned  in  a  deep  cut  for  nearly  a  mile,  and, 
on  emerging  from  it,  there  lie  spread  before  us  (on  the  right)  the  rich 
and  lovely  valley  and  waters  of  the  Neversink.  Beyond  sweeps  a  chain 
of  blue  hills,  and  at  their  feet,  terraced  high,  gleam  the  roofs  and  spires 
of  the  town  of  Port  Jervis  (88  miles) ;  while  to  the  S.  the  eye  rests  upon 
the  waters  of  the  Delawai'e,  along  the  banks  of  which  the  line  runs  for 
the  next  90  miles. 

Port  Jervis  [Delaware  House,  Fowler  House)  is  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Delaware  and  Neversink  Rivers,  and  contains 
9,327  inhabitants.  Extensive  railroad-shops  are  located  here,  and  it 
is  the  terminus  of  the  E.  division  of  the  Erie  road.  The  scenery  in 
the  vicinity  is  delightful,  and  the  village  itself  is  a  very  pretty  one. 
Riding,  driving,  hunting,  and  fishing  may  be  enjoyed  to  any  extent, 
and  many  summer  visitors  are  attracted  to  it.  Point  Peter  is  ascended 
from  the  village,  and  affords  a  pleasing  outlook  over  the  Delaware 
and  Neversink  Valleys.  Six  miles  distant  are  the  Falls  of  the  Sawkill, 
v>'here  a  mountain-brook  is  precipitated  80  ft.  over  two  perpendicular 
ledges  of  slate-rock  into  a  wild  and  romantic  gorge.  Milford,  a  lovely 
mountain-surrounded  town,  six  miles  below  Port  Jervis,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  stages,  has  become  a  favorite  summer-resort,  with  sev- 
eral good  hotels.  Shortly  beyond  are  the  beautiful  falls  of  the  Ray- 
mondskill,  and  there  are  fine  trout-streams  in  the  neighborhood. 

Three  miles  beyond  Port  Jervis  the  train  crosses  the  Delaware  into 
the  State  of  Pennsylvania,  which  it  traverses  for  26  miles  to  Delaware 
Bridge,  where  it  again  enters  New  York.  Near  Shohola  (107  miles)  some 
of  the  greatest  obstacles  of  the  entire  route  were  encountered,  and  for 
several  miles  the  roadv/ay  was  hewed  out  of  the  solid  cliff-side  at  a 
cost  of  S100,000  a  mile.  Lackawaxen  (111  miles)  is  a  pretty  village  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Lackawaxen  Creek  and  Delaware  River.     Here 


190  NEW    YORK    TO    BUFFALO.  Y^^ute  1^1. 

the  Delaware  is  spanned  by  an  iron  suspension-bridge  supporting  the 
aqueduct  by  which  the  D.  &  H.  Canal  crosses  the  river.  At  Narrows- 
burg  (122  miles)  the  river  is  compressed  by  two  points  of  rock  into  a 
channel  100  ft.  deep.  Beyond  Narrowsburg  for  some  miles  the  scenery 
is  uninteresting  and  the  stations  unimportant.  Near  Callicoon  (136  miles) 
is  the  romantic  and  trout-teeming  Callicoon  Brook;  and  Hancock  (164 
miles)  is  attractively  situated.  At  Deposit  (17  7  miles)  the  train  leaves 
the  valley  of  the  Delaware  and  begins  the  ascent  of  the  high  mountain- 
ridge  which  separates  it  from  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Susquehanna. 
As  the  train  descends  into  the  latter  valley  there  opens  suddenly  on  the 
right  a  *  picture  of  rare  and  bewitching  beauty.  This  first  glimpse  of  the 
Susquehanna  is  esteemed  one  of  the  finest  points  of  the  varied  scenery 
of  the  Erie  route.  A  short  distance  below,  the  train  crosses  the  great 
^  Starve ca  Viachicf^  1,200  ft.  long  and  110  ft.  high,  constructed  at  a 
cost  of  $320,000,  and  spanning  the  Starucca  Valley  with  18  arches. 
From  Susquehanna  (193  miles)  the  viaduct  itself  is  a  most  effective 
feature  of  the  valley  views.  Susquehanna  {Starucca  Hotel,  at  the 
station)  contains  the  vast  repair-shops  of  the  company,  and  is  one  of 
the  stopping-places  for  meals. 

For  a  few  miles  beyond  Susquehanna  the  route  still  lies  amid  mount 
ain-ridges,  but  these  are  soon  left  behind,  and  the  train  enters  upon  a 
beautiful  hilly  and  rolling  country,  thickly  dotted  with  villages  and  towns. 
At  Great  Bend  (201  miles)  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R. 
comes  in  from  the  Pennsylvania  coal-fields.  Kirkwood  (206  miles) 
claims  rivalry  with  Sharon,  Vt.,  as  the  birthplace  of  Joseph  Smith,  the 
Mormon  prophet.  Nine  miles  beyond  Kirkwood  is  Binghamton 
(Bennett,  Orandell,  Exchange,  and  Lewis),  an  important  railroad  and 
manufacturing  center,  pleasantly  situated  on  a  wide  plain  in  an  angle 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Susquehanna  and  Chenango  Rivers. 
It  contains  35,005  inhabitants,  and  is  a  leading  seat  of  the  coal  and 
iron  industry.  Six  railways  converge  here,  and,  besides  large  manu- 
facturing interests,  there  is  an  extensive  trade  with  the  adjacent 
country.  The  Court-House  (on  Court  St.)  is  a  handsome  building,  the 
Bank  Building  (cor.  Court  and  Chenango  Sts.)  is  another,  and  there 
are  several  fine  churches.  The  New  York  State  Military  Store-House  is 
a  fine  structure.  The  Asylum  for  the  Chronic  Insane  is  a  vast  stone 
structure  on  a  commanding  eminence  a  mile  from  the  city  (reached 
'  by  street-cars).  Other  interesting  institutions  are  the  Susquehanna 
Orphan  Asylum  and  St.  Mary  Orphan  Asylum..  This  place  is  one 
of  the  lai'gest  cigar-manufacturing  cities  in  the  United  States,  and  it  is 
also  noted  for  its  leather  and  boot  and  shoe  interests.  On  the  far-view- 
ing Mt.  Prospect  is  a  popular  water-cure  hotel. 

Twenty-two  miles  beyond  Binghamton  is  Owego  [Ahwaga  House, 
Central  House),  a  prosperous  town  of  9,008  inhabitants,  situated  on 
the  Susquehanna  at  the  mouth  of  Owego  Creek,  and  surrounded  by 
pleasing  scenery.  The  T-ehigh  Valley  R.  R.  connects  here,  and  the' 
Cayuga  Division  of  the  Del.,  Lack.  &  Western  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  35 
miles  to  Ithaca  (see  Route  40).  Evergreen  Cemetery  is  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Susquehanna    River  on  a  hill   200  ft.   high,  which   commands 


Route  Jfl.]  i^'EW    YORK    TO    BUFFALO.  191 

fine  views.  On  Owego  Creek,  a  short  distance  from  the  village, 
is  Glenmary^  once  the  home  of  N.  P.  Willis  and  the  place  where  he 
wrote  his  charming  "  Letters  from  imder  a  Bridge."  Beyond  Owego, 
passing  several  small  stations,  of  which  Waverly  (256  miles)  is  the  prin- 
cipal, the  train  runs  in  3Y  miles  to  Elmira  [Delevan,  Hafhbvn,  and 
Wyckoff)^  the  largest  city  of  the  Southern  Tier,  with  29,708  inhabitants, 
and  extensive  manufactures,  among  which  are  the  car-shops  of  the  Erie 
R.  R.,  the  Elmira  Iron  and  Steel  Rolling-Mills,  and  the  engine-works 
of  B.  W.  Payne  &  Sons.  Water  St.  is  the  business  thoroughfare.  The 
Covrt-Hoiise  is  a  handsome  edifice,  and  the  Elmira  Female  College  has 
a  building  in  the  X.  portion  of  the  city.  E.  of  the  city  is  the  Elmira 
Water-Cure,  which  is  well  patronized.  The  State  Reformatory  and  the 
Soxiihern  Tier  Orphans'  Home  are  also  located  here.  The  Northern 
Central  R.  R.  (Route  59)  intersects  the  present  route  at  Elmira.  The 
Lehigh  Yalley  R.  R.  also  comes  in  from  the  coal-regions  of  Penn- 
sylvania ;  and  the  Elmira,  Cortland  &  Northern  R.  R.  runs  in  50  miles  to 
Ithaca  (see  Route  40).  The  manufactures  are  largely  on  the  increase,  and 
among  them  the  La  France  Fire-Engine  Works  are  noted.  Corning 
(291  miles)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  village  of  8,550  inhabitants,  on  the 
Chemung  River.  The  Rochester  Div.of  the  Erie  R.  R.  diverges  here 
from  the  main  line  toward  the  N.  W.,  and  the  Tioga  Div.  of  the  Erie 
R.  R.  enters  from  the  S.  W.  The  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western 
R.  R.  intersects  the  city  from  the  W.  and  from  New  York, 

The  BocJiester  Division  of  the  Erie  R.  R.  runs  N.  "W.  to  Rochester  in  95 
miles  and  to  Attica  (111  miles),  where  a  junction  is  made  with  the  Bujffalo  Div. 
described  below.  The  distance  from  Tvew  York  to  Buffalo  by  this  route  is  433 
miles,  being  10  miles  longer  than  the  route  via  Hornellsville.  There  are  many- 
small  towns  between  Corning  and  Rochester,  of  which  the  most  important  is 
Bath,  a  thriving  manufacturing  village,  surrounded  by  a  rich  and  populous 
agricultiu-al  country.  Avon  (76  miles  from  Corning  and'  19  from  Rochester)  is 
noted  as  the  site  of  the  much-frequented  Avon  Springs  {Avon  Springs  Hotel. 
Livingston,  Sanitariwn).  The  springs,  3  in  number,  are  about  a  mile  S.  W. 
of  the  station,  and  the  Lower  Spring  discharges  .54  gallons  a  minute.  The 
waters  are  saline-sulphurous,  are  taken  both  internally  and  in  the  form  of 
baths,  and  are  considered  remedial  in  rheumatism,  indigestion,  and  cutaneous 
diseases.    Rochester  (386  mUes  from  New  York)  is  described  in  Route  40. 

Beyond  Corning  the  main  line  runs  for  2  miles  parallel  with  the 
Rochester  Division,  then  passes  six  small  stations,  and  in  41  miles 
reaches  Hornellsville,  a  place  of  10,996  inhabitants,  with  exten- 
sive repair-shops,  engine-houses,  etc.  Here  the  Buffalo  and  Western 
Divisions  diverge ;  the  former  running  N.  W.  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara 
Falls  (described  below),  and  the  latter  running  almost  due  W.  to  Dun- 
kirk on  Lake  Erie.  The  section  between  Hornellsville  and  Dunkirk  is 
the  least  attractive  of  the  Erie  line,  the  country  being  comparatively 
unsettled,  and  no  important  tov.ns  having  grown  up  within  it.  Soon 
after  leaving  Hornellsville  the  train  enters  the  valley  of  the  Canisteo 
River,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  the  hamlets  of  Almon  and  Alfred. 
At  Tip-Top  Summit  the  road  reaches  its  highest  point  (1,760  ft.  above 
tide-water),  and  the  descent  is  begun  into  the  valley  of  the  Genesee. 
The  country  en  route  is  peculiarly  wild  and  lonely,  desolate  and  somber 
forest  tracts  alternating  with  the  stations  and  little  villages  along  the 


192  NEW   YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Route  J^l. 

line.  At  Cuba  Summit  the  train  crosses  the  Alleghany  water-shed, 
1,680  ft.  above  the  sea.  and  just  beyond  are  many  brooks  and  glens  of 
rugged  beauty.  Passing  Olean  (396  miles)  and  Carrollton  (408  miles) 
the  route  enters  the  Reservation  of  the  Seneca  Indians  (embracing  42 
square  miles)  and  follows  the  wild  banks  of  the  Alleghany  River,  flow- 
ing amid  hills  as  wild  and  desolate  as  itself.  At  Salamanca  (414  miles) 
the  New  York,  Lake  Erie  &  Western  R.  R.  connects  with  the  Erie  and 
forms  the  route  taken  by  the  "  through  trains  "  to  the  West  (see  Route 
68).  Beyond  Salamanca  the  Erie  traverses  for  47  miles  a  dreary  and 
monotonous  forest  region,  and  reaches  its  terminus  at  Dunkirk,  a 
place  of  9,416  inhabitants  on  Lake  Erie,  460  miles  from  IvTew  York. 
Dunkirk  has  a  safe  and  commodious  harbor,  protected  by  a  breakwater, 
considerable  trade,  and  some  manufactures.  Connection  is  made  here 
with  the  Lake  Shore  &  Michigan  Southern  R.  R.,  which  runs  from  Buf- 
falo W.  to  Cleveland  and  Chicago  (see  Route  67). 


The  Buffalo 

Leaving  Hornellsville  the  train  passes  a  number  of  small  stations,, 
and  in  30  miles  (362  miles  from  New  York)  reaches  Portage  {Ingham 
HoteT)^  the  most  attractive  point  on  the  entire  Erie  line.  Here  are  the 
*  Portage  Falls,  3  in  number,  and  each  of  sufficient  beauty  to  re- 
pay the  tourist  for  the  journey  from  New  York.  They  are  formed 
by  the  descent  of  the  Genesee  River  from  the  plateau  on  which  it  has 
flowed  tranquilly  for  many  miles  to  the  lake-level.  The  Upper  or 
Horseshoe  Falls  are  just  below  the  R.  R.  bridge  and  have  a  vertical  de- 
scent of  70  ft.  Half  a  mile  below  is  the  *  Middle  Fall^  where  the  river 
plunges  110  ft.  into  a  chasm  formed  by  perpendicular  ledges  of  rock. 
The  action  of  the  water  has  worn  a  cave  or  hollow  in  the  W.  bank, 
which  is  called  the  DeviVs  Oven.  In  times  of  high  water  this  cavern  is 
submerged ;  but  when  the  river  is  low  it  will  hold  100  people.  For  2 
miles  below  the  Middle  Fall  the  river  rushes  through  a  deep  and  narrow 
gorge,  and  at  the  *  Lower  Falls  roars  down  a  wonderful  series  of  cas- 
cades and  rapids,  descending  150  ft.  in  ^  mile.  The  railroad  crosses 
the  river  on  an  iron  *  bridge,  818  ft.  long  and  234  ft.  high.  The 
Upper  Falls  are  visible  from  the  bridge,  but  no  idea  of  their  grandeur 
can  be  formed  until  they  are  seen  from  below.  Also  visible  from 
the  bridge  is  the  long  Aqueduct  by  which  the  Genesee  Canal  crosses 
the  river. 

Six  miles  beyond  Portage  is  Gainesville  (368  miles),  whence  a  rail- 
way runs  in  Y  miles  to  the  lovely  Silver  Lake,  where  the  sea-serpent 
was  said  to  have  been  seen  in  1855.  Warsaw  (375  miles)  is  a  pleasant 
village,  at  the  entrance  of  the  romantic  0-at-ka  Valley,  and  surrounded 
by  rich  pastoral  scenery.  It  is  much  visited  in  summer.  There  are 
numerous  salt  wells  and  mines  in  this  vicinity.  At  Attica  (392  miles) 
the  Rochester  Div.  (see  above)  joins  the  main  line,  which  then  passes 
on  to  Buifalo  (423  miles)  and  Niagara  Falls  (442  miles).  Both 
these  places  are  described  in  Route  40. 


Eoute  J}2.'\  NEAV   YORK   TO    BUFFALO.  193 

42.  New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls. 

Via  West  Shore  R.  R. 

Distances  :  Albany,  141  miles  ;  Utica,  232  miles  ;  Syracuse,  278  miles  ;  Pal- 
myra, 338  miles  ;  Rochester,  359  miles  ;  Elba,  387  miles  ;  BufEalo,  428  miles  ; 
Suspension  Bridge,  450  miles. 

The  West  Shore  E.  R.  traverses  the  W.  shore  of  the  Hudson,  and 
west  from  Albany  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R., 
touching  many  of  the  same  cities. 

The  W.  shore  of  the  Hudsoti  has  already  been  described  in  Route  9, 
but  a  brief  account  of  the  route  pursued  by  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  to 
Albany  will  be  of  interest.  Leaving  the  R.  R.  depot  at  Jersey  City  or 
Weehaivken,  the  trains  reach  Hackensack  (8  miles),  the  first  station 
of  importance,  passing  in  rear  of  the  Palisades.  This  is  the  county 
town  of  Bergen  County,  and  contains  a  population  of  6,004.  It  is 
also  on  the  line  of  the  New  York,  Susquehanna  &  Western  and 
New  Jersey  &  New  York  Railroads.  It  is  a  considerable  manufact- 
uring place,  and  has  12  churches  and  several  banks  and  newspaper- 
offices.  Tappan  (19  miles)  is  a  small  village  about  1^  mile  W.  of 
the  Hudson  River,  where  the  unfortunate  Major  Andre  was  tried  and 
executed  as  a  spy,  in  October,  1*780.  Nyack  (24  miles)  is  described 
on  page  69.  At  Haverstraw  (33  miles),  a  town  of  5,170  inhabitants, 
situated  on  Haverstraw  Bay,  and  well  known  for  its  extensive  brick-works, 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  Ramapo  Hills,  the  road  strikes  the  river-shore. 
The  scenery  is  exceedingly  picturesque  here,  showing  the  Highlands  in 
the  distance.  Passing  CaldweWs,  lona  Landing^  and  Fort  Montgomery^ 
*  West  Point  is  reached  (47  miles).  This  beautiful  spot,  noted  as  the 
seat  of  the  U.  S.  Military  Academy,  and  as  a  charming  summer  resort,  is 
described  on  page  70.  Cornwall  Landing,  5  miles  above,  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  summer-places  on  the  river.  *  Ne  wburg,  on  the  W.  shore 
of  Newburg  Bay  (see  page  71),  is  a  prosperous  city,  round  which  many 
interesting  Revolutionary  memories  cluster  (23,087  population).  Here 
the  West  Shore  R.  R.  connects  with  a  branch  of  the  Erie  R.  R.  and 
with  the  N.  Y.  &  New  England  R.  R.  (by  ferry  to  Fishkill  Landing, 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  river).  Marlboro,  Highland,  &n&West  Park, 
are  small  stations  intervening  before  we  reach  £sopus  (80  miles), 
a  thriving  village  of  3,448  population.  Kingston,  8  miles  beyond,  is 
described  on  page  71.  Here  the  railway  connects  with  the  Ulster  & 
Delaware  and  Wallkill  Valley  Railroads,  giving  easy  access  to  several 
popular  resorts  in  the  Catskill  Mountains.  Catskill,  22  miles  N.  (4,920 
population),  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  mountains  via  the  Cats- 
kill  Mts.  R.  R.,  which  connects  here  (see  page  71).  The  branch  to 
Albany  (see  page  72)  diverges  from  Coei/nuui's  Junction,  18  miles  N., 
reaching  that  city  in  a  run  of  13  miles. 

After  leaving  the  Junction  (128  miles  N.  of  New  York),  the  first 

station  of  importance  is  the  city  of  *  Schenectady  (see  Route  40),  the 

West  Shore  station  being  in  what  is  known  as  South  Schenectady  (152 

miles).     At  Rotterdam  Junction,  7  miles  beyond,  connection  is  made 

13 


194  KEW  YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Uoute  J^2. 

with  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.,  giving  a  through  line  from  Boston  and  other 
eastern  points  to  the  West.  The  road  now  begins  to  skirt  the  S.  bank 
of  the  Mohawk  River.  There  are  a  number  of  small  stations,  Patter- 
sonville,  Fort  Hunter^  Auriesville,  Fultonville^  and  Downing^  before  we 
reach  Canajoharie^  a  thriving  town  of  2,089  inhabitants  (190  miles). 
From  Fort  Plain,  3  miles  beyond,  to  Utica,  the  railroad  passes  through 
the  same  towns  with  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.  (see 
Route  40).  Small  towns  intervene,  among  which  may  be  mentioned 
Oneida  Castle,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  New  York,  Ontario  & 
Western  R.  R.,  and  Canastota,  a  thrifty  manufacturing  town  of  2,'7'74 
inhabitants,  through  which  also  pass  the  Elmira,  Cortland  &  Northern 
R.  R.,  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.,  and  the  Ei-ie 
Canal.  Chittenango  is  described  in  Route  40,  and  there  are  no  towns 
of  moment  till  we  reach  the  city  of  Syracuse  (278  miles)  (see 
Route  40).  Hei-e  the  railroad  makes  connection  with  its  Chittenango 
branch,  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western,  and  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  &  Ogdensburg  Railroads.  Weedsport  (299  miles)  has  1,580 
population,  and  is  a  place  of  some  manufacturing  interest.  It  is  on 
the  Erie  Canal,  and  the  Auburn  Div.  of  Lehigh  Yalley  R,  R.  passes 
through  it.  At  Montezuma  (307  miles)  the  navigable  outlet  of  Cayuga 
Lake  flows  into  the  Erie  Canal.  Clyde,  Lyons,  Newark,  Palmyra, 
Macedon,  Fairport,  and  Pittsford,  are  the  most  important  towns  on 
the  road  between  Weedsport  and  Rochester,  all  being  thriving  manu- 
facturing places.  At  Genesee  Junction,  V  miles  before  we  reach  Roches- 
ter, the  West  Shore  R.  R.  makes  connection  with  the  Western  New 
York  &  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  Rochester  (359  miles)  is  described  in 
Route  40.  Between  this  city  and  Buffalo  (428  miles),  described  in 
Route  40,  there  are  no  places  of  much  importance  on  the  present  route. 
From  Buffalo  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  runs  over  the  track  of  the  Sus- 
pension Bridge  Division  of  the  Erie  R.  R.  to  Suspension  Bridge  (see 
Route  40),  where  it  makes  through  connection  with  the  Great  Western 
Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  for  points  West. 

The  Neiv  York,  Ontario  &  Western  R.  E.  runs  to  Cornwall,  and  thence 
passes  in  a  N.  W.  direction  to  Oswego  on  Lake  Ontario,  running  through  cars 
from  New  York  to  the  Thousand  Isles,  nearly  bisecting  the  State.  The  route 
is  through  a  less  densely  settled  portion  of  the  State,  but  the  country  is  very 
beautiful  and  picturesque,  the  sport  with  rod  and  gun  excellent  along  the 
whole  line  of  the  road  from  Cornwall,  and  the  many  small  towns  which  dot  the 
route  are  rapidly  attracting  summer  visitors  who  wish  to  unite  economy  with 
pleasure  and  comfort.  After  leaving  Cornwall  (52  miles),  a  number  of  small 
stations  intervene  before  we  reach  CamjJiell  Hall,  whence  the  Wallkill  Valley 
R.  E.  runs  to  Kingston  on  the  Hudson.  The  first  station  of  importance  is  Mid- 
dletown  (78  miles),  a  flourishing  town  of  11,977  population.  It  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  the  Erie  E.  R.,  and  the  New  York,  Sasquehanna  &  Western  E.  E., 
has  several  iron  and  woolen  manufactures,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  HommopatMc 
State  Insane  Asylum.  At  Sidney  (200  miles)  is  the  junction  with  the  Susque- 
hanna Division  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  E.  E.,  and  the  New  Berlin  Branch. 
Norwich,  a  town  of  5,212  population  (225  miles),  is  at  the  junction  with  the 
Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  E.  E.,  and  contains  a  number  of  blast-fur- 
naces, tool-works,  machine-shops,  foundries,  breweries,  tanneries,  etc.  It  has 
a  handsome  stone  court-house,  eight  churches,  and  several  banks  and  news- 
paper offices.  At  Randallsville  (244  miles)  is  the  crossing  with  the  Eome  & 
Clinton  Div.  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  E.  E.  Oneida  Castle,  23  miles  farther 
on,  is  at  the  crossing  with  the  West  Shore  E.  E.,  and  at  Oneida  (267  miles),  we 


Route  JfS.]  NEW   YORK    TO   BUFFALO.  195 

reacTi  the  junction  v,ith  the  N.  Y.  Central  E.  R.  At  Central  Square  (298  miles) 
and  Fulton  (313  miles),  connections  are  made  with  the  Eome,  Watertown  & 
Ogdensburg  E.  E.  In  a  ride  of  12  miles  farther  we  reach  the  beautiful  city 
of  Oswego  on  the  lake  (322  miles,  see  Eoute  55). 

43.  New  York  to  Buffalo. 

Via  Delaware^  LackavKcnna  &  Western  R.  R, 

Distances  :  Paterson.  15  mUes ;  Manunka  Chunk,  77  mUes  :  Water-Gap,  88 
mUes  ;  Scranton,  144  miles  ;  Binghamton,  207  miles  ;  Elmira,  263  miles  ;  Bath, 
298  miles  ;  Mt.  Morris,  346  miles  ;  Eochester  and  Pittsburg  Junction,  363  miles  • 
Buffalo,  409  miles.    Time,  12i  hours. 

Passengers  take  the  ferry-boat  from  the  foot  of  Barclay  St.  or 
Christopher  St.  to  the  station  in  Hoboken.  Leaving  Hoboken,  the  train 
passes  through  the  Bergen  Tunnel  to  Passaic^  at  the  head  of  tide-water 
and  navigation  on  the  Passaic  River,  a  few  miles  below  the  Great  Falls, 
where  the  river  cleaves  through  the  mountains.  The  population  of 
Passaic  is  13,028,  and  the  city  contains  many  important  manufactur- 
ing establishments,  dye  and  print  works,  woolen  and  worsted  works, 
bleacheries,  planing-mills,  and  foundries.  Paterson  {Franklin^  Ham- 
ilton) is  a  busy  manufacturing  town,  described  in  Route  41  (page  188). 

At  Washington  is  the  junction  of  the  Morris  &  Essex  Div.  with  the 
main  line,  the  former  passing  on  to  Easton  (see  Route  45),  the  latter 
leading  in  11  miles  to  Manunka  Chunk,  just  before  reaching  which 
the  train  pierces  through  the  Manunka  Chunk  Mt.  by  the  Yoss  Gap 
Tunnel,  1,000  feet  long.  Here  the  Belvidere  Div.  of  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  comes  in.  Eleven  miles  farther  on,  through  a  rugged  and  ro- 
mantic country,  the  road  leads  to  the 

Delaware  Water-Gap. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Kittatinny  House,  standing  on  the  mountain-side  above 
the  railway  station,  is  an  old  and  favorite  resort.  The  Water-Gap  House  is  a 
spacious  hotel  on  the  summit  of  Sunset  Hill.  The  Mountain  House  and  the 
Glenivood  are  smaller.  Pi-ices  at  these  hotels  are  from  $2  to  $3  a  day,  $10  to 
$16  a  week.  Fare  from  New  York  to  the  Water-Gap,  $2.55  ;  excursion,  $3.80. 
It  can  be  reached  from  Philadelphia  by  Eoute  55,  and  from  New  York  via  the 
New  York,  Susquehanna  &  Western  E.  E.    Distance,  98  miles. 

The  Delaware  Water-Gap  is  where  the  Delaware  River,  after  a  jour- 
ney of  about  200  miles  through  a  wild,  rugged,  and  romantic  country, 
forces  its  way  through  the  Kittatinny  or  Blue  Mountains.  The  Gap  is 
about  2  miles  long,  and  is  a  narrow  gorge  between  walls  of  rock  some 
1,600  ft.  in  height,  and  so  near  to  each  other  at  the  S.  E.  entrance  as 
hardly  to  leave  room  for  the  river  and  the  i-ailroad.  The  valley  X.  of 
the  Blue  Ridge  and  above  the  Gap  bore  the  Indian  name  of  Minnisink, 
or  "  Whence  the  waters  are  gone."  "  Here  a  vast  lake  once  probably 
extended ;  and  whether  the  great  body  of  water  wore  its  way  through 
the  mountain  by  a  fall  like  Niagara,  or  burst  through  a  gorge,  it  is  certain 
that  the  Minnisink  country  bears  the  mark  of  aqueous  action  in  its 
diluvial  soil,  and  in  its  rounded  hills,  built  of  pebbles  and  bowlders." 


196  NEW    YORK    TO    BUFFALO.  [Boute  43. 

Gap,  the  one  on  the  Pennsylvania  (W.)  side  is  named  3Ii7isi,  in  memory 
of  the  Indians ;  that  on  the  New  Jersey  (E.)  side  bears  the  name  of 
Tammany,  an  ancient  Dehiware  chief,  who  was  canonized  during  the 
last  century,  and  proclaimed  the  patron  saint  of  America.  Mt.  Minsi  is 
soft  in  outline,  and  densely  wooded,  but  Tammany  exhibits  vast,  frown- 
ing masses  of  naked  rock.  Successive  ledges,  or  geological  terraces, 
mark  the  face  of  Minsi,  and  upon  the  lowest  of  these,  200  ft.  above  the 
river,  stands  the  old  Kittatinny  House.  The  stream  that  issues  beneath 
the  hotel  and  falls  in  a  cascade  into  the  river  has  come  down  the  moun- 
tain-side through  a  dark  and  picturesque  ravine.  Far  up  the  ascent  it 
takes  its  rise  in  the  Himter^  Spring,  a  cool  and  sequestered  spot,  reached 
by  a  path  from  the  hotel.  Under  the  name  of  Caldeno  Creek  it  con- 
tinues its  downward  course  by  cascade  and  waterfall  to  the  river.  Along 
the  face  of  Minsi,  about  500  ft.  above  the  river,  i-uns  a  grand  horizontal 
plateau  of  red  shale,  extending  for  several  miles  along  the  mountain,  and 
known  as  the  Table  Rock.  Extensive  views  are  obtained  from  this 
point,  and  the  Caldeno  flows  over  the  ledge  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees  in 
a  charming  succession  of  miniature  falls  and  rapids.  The  rocky  strata 
beneath  are  densely  covered  with  moss,  which  gives  the  spot  its  name  of 
MoiiH  Cataract.  Below  the  cataract,  in  a  secluded,  deeply-shaded  glen, 
is  the  placid  rock-basin  known  as  BiancCs  Bath ;  and  at  a  still  lower 
range  the  stream  dashes  at  Caldeno  Fcdls  over  a  rugged,  rocky  precipice. 
All  these  points  are  reached  from  the  Kittatinny  House  by  a  path 
marked  in  white  lines  on  rocks  and  trees.  The  summit  of  Mt.  Minsi  is 
reached  from  the  hotel  by  a  path  3  miles  long,  marked  by  red  lines. 
The  ascent  is  easy,  and  the  view  from  the  summit  the  finest  to  be  ob- 
tained in  this  region.  Paths  diverging  from  the  main  path  to  the  summit 
lead  to  various  points  of  interest.  A  short  distance  from  the  hotel  a 
path  marked  with  blue  lines,  and  turning  off  to  the  left,  leads  to  the 
Lover'' s  Leap,  whence  the  best  view  of  the  Gap  is  obtained.  Half  a  mile 
farther,  a  white-Wne^  path  to  the  right  leads  to  Hunter''s  Spring,  already 
mentioned ;  and  still  beyond  a  yelloio-\me^  path  (to  the  left)  leads  to 
Prospect  Rock  (2  miles  from  the  hotel),  whence  another  noble  view  is 
obtained.  Mt.  Tammany  may  be  ascended  from  the  hotels  by  a  rugged 
path  2-|-  miles  long,  but  it  should  not  be  undertaken  except  by  a  vigor- 
ous climber.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  fine,  but  does  not  differ 
materially  from  that  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Minsi.  On  the  apex  of 
the  lofty  peak  is  a  picturesque  mountain-lake,  of  which  popular  super- 
stition declares  that  it  has  no  bottom. 

The  best  near  view  of  the  Gap  is  obtained  by  descending  the  river  in 
a  boat  to  McUher''s  Sp7'ing,on  the  New  Jersey  shore  (1^  mile  from  the 
hotel).  The  Indian  Ladder  Bluff,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Tammany,  the  Cold 
Air  Cave,  Benner\  Spring,  and  the  Point  of  Rocks,  are  favorite  excur- 
sion-points along  the  river.  A  few  miles  above  the  Gap  the  Delaware  is 
joined  by  the  Bushkill  Creek,  upon  which  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
waterfalls  of  the  district — ^the  Bushkill  Falls.  On  a  small  affluent  of 
the  same  stream  are  the  Buttermilk  Fcdls  and  the  picturesque  Marshcdl 
Falls.  All  these  falls  are  within  Y  miles  of  the  hotels.  There  is  a 
pleasant  drive  from  the  Gap  up  the  Cherry  Vcdley, 


Route  43. ]  NEW    YORK   TO    BUFFALO.  197 

The  Water-Gap  is  traversed  on  a  narrow  shelf  between  the  river  and 
mountain,  and  as  the  train  emerges  at  the  N.  end  it  crosses  Broadhead 
Creek,  and  passes  through  a  cut  in  Rock  Difficult,  so  called  from  the 
difficulty  encountered  in  making  a  passage  through  its  flinty  mass. 
Strouckhurg  is  the  first  station  beyond  the  Gap,  and  is  a  pleasant  sum- 
mer resort.  At  Spragueville  the  ascent  of  the  Pocono  Mt.,  the  E.  slope 
of  the  Alleghanies,  begins,  the  grade  for  25  miles  being  at  the  rate  of 
65  ft.  to  the  mile.  Just  beyond  Oakland  the  Pocono  Tunnel  is  traversed 
near  the  top  of  the  mountain,  a  point  from  which  the  view,  extending 
more  than  30  miles,  is  most  impressive.  At  Tohyhanna  the  descent  of 
the  W.  slope  of  the  mountains  begins.  Just  beyond  Moscoiv  the  valley 
of  Roaring  Brook  is  entered,  and  the  train  descends  by  steep  grades  into 
the  Lackawanna  Valley  and  soon  reaches  Scranton  (see  Route  52). 
Beyond  Scranton  the  train  runs  N.  to  Great  Bend.,  a  small  village  on  the 
Erie  R.  R.  and  the  Susquehanna  River.  Fourteen  miles  farther  on  is 
Binghamtou,  described  in  Route  41,  where  the  Syracuse  and  Oswego 
Div.  branches  off.     (Route  55.) 

Richfield  Springs. 

At  Binghamton,  the  TJHca  Division  runs  to  Chenango  Forks  and  to  Utica, 
on  the  N.  Y.  Central  E.  R.  From  Jiiclijield  Jimcfion  (13  miles  from  Utica) 
a  branch  line  runs  in  21  miles  to  Riclifieltl  Springs,  a  popular  summer  re- 
sort in  Otsego  County,  near  the  head  of  Schuyler's  Lake.  Trains  run  direct 
from  New  York  to  the  Springs  during  the  summer  season.  The  village  is  neat, 
but  the  hotels  constitute  Richfield.  The  leading  hotels  are  the  Spring  House 
and  the  Earlington,  which  face  each  other  on  opposite  sides  of  the  main  street. 
Smaller  houses  are  the  Canadarago,  Bavenport,  National,  Tidier  House,  and 
others.  There  are  17  mineral  springs  near  the  village,  the  most  important  being 
that  within  the  grounds  of  the  Spring  House.  The  waters  are  considered  espe- 
cially etficacious  in  diseases  of  the  skin.  There  are  delightful  walks  and  drives 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Springs,  and  fine  boating  and  fishing  on  Schuyler's 
Lake,  which  is  1  mile  from  the  village.  This  lake  is  Si  miles  long,  and  is 
iaclosed  by  gentle  hills  which  combine  with  it  in  many  attractive  landscapes. 
The  Schuyler  Lake  House  is  celebrated  for  its  fish  and'  game  dinners.  Stages 
run  several  times  daily  to  Otsego  Lake,  connecting  with  the  steamers  for  Coop- 
erstown ;  also  connecting  at  Springfield  Center  with  stages  to  Cherry  Valley 
and  Sharon  Springs. 

Twenty  miles  beyond  Binghamton  the  train  reaches  OAvego,  whence 
the  Cayuga  Div.  runs  to  Ithaca  (34  miles)  (see  Route  40,  page  1Y5). 
Elmira  is  the  next  place  of  importance,  and  is  desciibed  in  Route  40. 
At  Bath,  connec Lions  are  formed  with  the  Bath  &  Hammondsport 
R.  R. ;  at  3It.  Morris  with  the  Western,  Xew  York  &  Pennsylvania  R.  R. 
for  Portage  and  intermediate  points ;  and  at  the  Rochester  <&  Pittshurg 
Junction  with  the  line  running  N.  to  Le  Roy  and  Rochester  and  S.  to 
Wyoming  and  Warsaw,     For  Bufialo,  see  Route  40,  page  178. 


198  NBW   YOEK    TO   MONTREAL.  [Boute  44. 

44.    New  York  to  Montreal  via  Saratoga  Springs  and 
Lake  Champlain. 

Via  the  N.  Y.  Central  &  Hudson  River  or  West  Shore  R.  R.,  or  during 
summer  hy  the  steamboat  (Route  9)  to  Albany  or  Troy,  and  thence  via  Dela- 
ware &  Hudson  R.  R.  Distances  :  To  Albany,  143  miles  ;  to  Saratoga  Springs, 
181  ;  to  Whitehall,  219  ;  to  Rouse's  Point,  341  ;  to  Montreal,  383.  This  is  the 
shortest  and  most  direct  route  between  New  York  and  Montreal,  and  the 
through  trains  make  the  journey  in  about  12  hours.  Drawing-room  and  sleep- 
ing cars  are  attached  to  the  through  trains. 

As  far  as  Albany  or  Troy  this  route  has  already  been  described  in 
Koute  9.  At  Albany  (143  miles)  the  cars  take  the  track  of  the  Dela- 
ware &  Hudson  R.  R.  and  run  N.  past  the  Rural  Cemetery  to  W. 
Troy  (149  miles) ;  Cohoes  (152  miles),  a  busy  manufacturing  city  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Mohawk  River;  Waterford  (154  miles),  a  large  manu- 
facturing village  on  the  Hudson;  and  Albany  Junction  (155  miles), 
where  the  Albany  Div.  joins  the  main  line  from  Troy,  6  miles  distant. 
Round  Lake  (168  miles)  is  a  celebrated  Methodist  camp-meeting  ground ; 
and  6  miles  beyond  is  BallstoD  Spa  [Sans-Souci  Hotel^  Ballston  Spa 
House)^  a  fashionable  and  frequented  resort,  noted  for  its  mineral  springs, 
whose  fame,  however,  has  been  overshadowed  by  the  more  popular 
Saratoga  waters.  The  village  of  3,52Y  inhabitants  is  situated  upon 
the  Kayaderosseras  Creek,  and  contains  several  factories.  Seven  miles 
beyond  (181  from  New  York)  the  train  stops  at 

Saratoga  Springs. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  hotels  of  Saratoga  are  among  the  largest  in  the  world. 
The  Grand  Union  Hotel,  in  Broadway,  is  a  vast  building,  and  with  its  grounds 
occupies  a  large  village  block.  The  grounds  are  beautifully  shaded  by  large 
elms.  In  these  grounds  are  held  the  famous  garden  parties,  when  the  whole 
interior  is  converted  into  a  fairy  spectacle  by  the  use  of  profuse  decora- 
tions. In  the  handsome  ball-room  of  this  hotel  is  Adolph  Yvon's  celebrated 
painting  of  "  The  Genius  of  America."  The  United  States  Hotel,  a  few  hundred 
feet  farther  north,  on  the  same  side  of  Broadway,  is  a  brick  edifice,  surrounded 
by  wide  piazzas  and  beautiful  promenades,  and  is  richly  furnished.  Con- 
gress Hall,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Broadway,  is  also  a  large  brick  building. 
The  beautiful  ball-room  of  this  hotel  is  connected  with  it  by  a  light  and  airy 
bridge  spanning  Spring  St.  The  Windsor  Hotel,  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  over- 
looking Congress  Spring  Park,  has  one  of  the  most  desirable  locations  at  Sara- 
toga. It  is  a  quiet  and  aristocratic  house.  The  Clarendon,  opposite,  is  a  large 
wooden  structure  with  ample  accommodations.  The  Kensington  is  a  new  hotel 
in  Union  Ave.,  one  block  from  Congress  Spring  Park.  These  hotels  are  the 
most  noted,  and  charge  from  $3  to  %b  a  day.  Besides  these  hotels  there  are 
many  smaller  ones  :  The  Adelphi,  the  American,  the  Cohanbian,  the  Conti- 
nental, the  Everett,  the  Heustis  House,  the  Hclden  House,  the  Kenmore,  the 
Vermont  House,  and  the  Waverly.  The  above  hotels  are  opened  only  during  the 
summer  season.  The  Worde?i  Hotel,  cor.  Broadway  and  Division  St.,  is  open  all 
the  year  around,  and  is  an  excellent  hotel.  Br.  Strong''s  Remedial  Institute,  in 
Circular  St.,  is  open  during  the  entire  year,  and  is  near  the  principal  springs 
and  hotels.  Besides  those  enumertited,  there  are  more  than  50  smaller  hotels 
and  many  boarding-houses,  at  any  of  which  good  board  can  be  obtained  for 
from  So  to  $25  a  week.  From  the  railroad  station  to  most  of  the  hotels  is  only 
a  short  walk,  and  the  principal  hotels  have  stages  conveying  passengers  to  and 
from  the  station  free  of  charge. 


Route  JfJ^.]  :N^EW    YORK    TO   MONTREAL.  199 

Saratoga  Springs  is  situated  upon  the  last  mountaia  of  the  east- 
ern spur  of  the  Adirondacks,  to  the  E.  of  which  stretches  a  level  plateau. 
It  has  an  altitude  of  about  400  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  and  the  air  is 
dry  and  healthful.  The  natural  advantages  of  the  village  have  been 
supplemented  by  a  liberal  public  policy  on  the  part  of  the  corporation, 
and  its  system  of  public  instruction  and  public  water-supply,  the  sewage 
system,  the  fire  and  police  departments,  and  all  the  varied  appliances 
for  health,  comfort,  and  safety  demanded  by  modern  living,  are  not 
surpassed  by  any  city  in  the  United  States. 

Along  the  southern  and  eastern  edge  of  the  mountain,  upon  which 
the  village  is  partially  situated,  is  a  ravine,  where,  at  frequent  intervals, 
gush  forth  mineral  springs  of  varied  character,  whose  medicinal  prop- 
erties have  made  them  famous  as  far  as  civilization  extends.  Saratoga 
is  yearly  visited  by  tourists,  and  those  in  search  of  health  and  pleasure, 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  Its  resident  population  is  1 1,9*75,  accord- 
ing to  the  census  of  1890;  but  during  the  season,  which  lasts  from 
June  1st  to  October  1st,  there  are  often  not  less  than  30,000  strangers 
in  the  village.  The  principal  avenues  are  shaded  by  magnificent  elms 
and  other  native  trees.  There  is  no  more  brilliant  spectacle  than  Sara- 
toga during  the  height  of  the  season.  All  the  principal  hotels  have 
large  orchestras  that  play  morning  and  evening,  and  balls  and  hops  are 
of  nightly  occurrence. 

The  medicinal  properties  of  the  High  Rock  Spring  were  known  to  the  Iro- 
quois Indians  at  the  period  of  Jacques  Cartier's  visit  to  the  St.  Lawrence  in 
1535.  In  1767  Sir  William  Johnson  was  carried  thither  on  a  litter  by  the  Mo- 
hawks, and  he  is  believed  to  have  been  the  first  white  man  to  visit  the  spring. 
The  first  log  cabin  was  erected  in  1773,  and  the  first  framed  house  in  1784  by 
Gen.  Philip  J.  Schuyler,  who  in  the  same  year  cut  a  road  through  the  forest  to 
the  High  Rock  from  Schuylerville.  Hotels  began  to  be  erected  about  1815,  and 
since  then  the  fame  of  the  Springs  has  spread  so  widely  that,  in  addition  to  the 
hosts  of  visitors,  immense  quantities  of  the  waters  are  bottled  and  sent  to  all 
parts  of  the  United  States  and  Em-ope.  The  name  Saratoga  (Indian,  iSaragho- 
ga)  signifies  "  the  place  of  the  herrings,"  which  formerly  passed  up  the  Hudson 
into  Saratoga  Lake. 

The  principal  street  of  the  village  is  Broadway^  in  which  the  large 
hotels  are  situated.  The  North  Broadway  section  is  that  part  of  the 
village  where  the  most  costly  and  beautiful  cottages  are  situated,  many 
of  them  of  considerable  architectural  pretensions.  In  this  section  is 
Woodlawn  Park,  the  celebrated  country  seat  of  Henry  Hilton,  of 
New  York  city.  It  is  the  largest  private  park  in  America,  having  more 
than  twice  the  area  of  Central  Park  in  New  York  city.  There  are 
about  30  miles  of  hard,  smooth  roads  winding  through  its  picturesque 
confines,  and  many  small  lakes  and  sparkling  rivulets  adorn  the  land- 
scape. While  this  park  is  maintained  at  private  expense,  the  owner 
generously  throws  it  open  to  the  public,  who  may  enjoy  its  miles  of 
fine  park  roads  and  beautiful  vistas  of  forest  and  lawn.  It  is  one  of 
the  favorite  drives  around  Saratoga. 

The  most  popular  drive  is  to  Saratoga  Lake,  3|  miles  to  the  E. 
of  the  village.  It  is  reached  by  way  of  Union  Ave.,  a  wide  boulevard 
lined  with  rows  of  elms;  and  in  the  afternoon,  the  favorite  hour  for 
driving,  it  presents  a  very  gay  scene  with  hundreds  of  handsome  pri- 


200  NEW   YORK   TO   MONTEEAL.  {Route  1^1^. 

vate  equipages.  The  other  principal  streets  are  Circular  St.,  Lake  Ave., 
Caroline  St.,  Philadelphia  St.,  Spring  St.,  and  South  St.  Congress 
Spring  Park  is  a  low  ridge  in  the  shape  of  a  horseshoe  eu circling 
the  lower  ground  on  which  the  Congress  and  Columbian  Springs  are 
situated.  It  in  near  the  principal  hotels,  is  shaded  by  noble  trees,  and 
laid  out  in  smooth  walks,  and  is  the  favorite  ramble.  A  brass  band 
plays  sevei'al  times  daily,  and  tennis  tournaments,  fireworks,  concerts, 
and  other  entertainments  are  given  hei-e  during  the  season.  A  small 
entrance  fee  is  charged.  There  are  two  small  camps  of  Indians  and 
Canadian  half-breeds  in  Saratoga  during  the  summer,  where  basket- 
work,  moccasins,  and  other  goods  of  Indian  making  can  be  bought,  and 
where  many  forms  of  amusement  are  provided  for  children.  In  one  of 
these  camps  is  a  circular  railway,  a  favorite  resort  for  exercise.  There 
are  in  all  at  Saratoga  upward  of  40  springs,  with  such  varied  constitu- 
ents that  one  is  astonished  that  such  differences  could  exist  in  waters 
that  come  to  the  surface  of  the  earth  within  such  a  comparatively  small 
area.  They  range  in  quality  from  strong  cathartic  and  diuretic  to  re- 
freshing table  waters,  sparkling  with  natural  carbon  dioxide  gas.  Of 
these  springs  the  Congress  is  the  most  celebrated.  It  is  situated  in 
Congress  Spring  Park,  and  was  discovered  in  1^92.  It  is  a  cathartic 
water.  Near  it  and  in  the  same  inclosure  is  the  Cohcmbian  Spring, 
quite  different  in  character  from  the  Congress,  and  a  valuable  tonic. 
The  Hathorn  Spring,  about  300  ft.  farther  N.  of  Congress  Spring  on 
Spring  St.,  is  one  of  the  strongest  cathartic  springs  at  Saratoga.  Its 
waters  contain  nearly  100  grains  of  mineral  constituents  and  about 
50  cubic  inches  of  carbon  dioxide  gas  to  every  pint.  A  few  feet  N.  of 
the  Hathorn  Spring  is  the  Patterson  Spring,  a  mild  cathartic  water 
agreeable  to  the  taste.  The  Hamilton  Spring,  cor.  Spring  and  Putnam 
Sts.,  and  the  Wa'ihington  Spring,  in  the  grounds  of  the  Clarendon 
Hotel,  are  both  similar  in  their  properties  to  the  Columbian  Spring.  In 
a  small  park  between  Caroline  St.  and  Lake  Ave.  are  located  the  Pa- 
vilion and  United  States  Sjyrings,  agreeable  to  drink  and  of  tonic  prop- 
erties. Next  N.  on  the  opposite  side  of  Lake  Ave.  is  the  Imperial 
Spring,  considered  a  desirable  table  water.  A  stone's  throw  to  the  E. 
is  the  Roycd  Spring,  a  fine  table  water,  coming  from  a  depth  of  more 
than  600  ft.  Following  Spring  Ave.  to  the  N.  the  Seltzer  Spring  is 
reached,  similar  in  quality  to  the  German  seltzer-water ;  opposite  to 
which  is  the  Saratoga  Magnetic  Spring.  In  connection  with  this  spring 
is  a  large  and  commodious  bath-house.  Immediately  N.  of  the  Seltzer 
is  the  High  Rock  Spring,  the  oldest  known  of  the  Saratoga  Springs.  It 
was  discovered  in  1767  by  Sir  William  Johnson,  the  first  white  man 
who  visited  Saratoga.  It  bubbles  up  through  an  aperture  in  a  conical 
rock  4  ft.  high,  formed  by  deposits  of  the  mineral  substances  of  the 
water.  The  Star  Spring,  a  saline  cathartic  water,  is  situated  a  few 
hundred  ft.  N. ;  and  just  beyond  it  is  the  well-known  Empire  Spring, 
a  saline  water  agreeable  to  the  taste,  and  highly  prized  for  its  medicinal 
qualities.  N.  of  the  Empire  is  the  Saratoga  "J  "  Spring,  and  then 
comes  the  Red  Spring  and  the  Elixir  Spring.  The  Irst  two  are  owned 
by  the  same  company,  and  in  connection  with  them  is  an  extensive 


Route  44.]  NEW   YORK   TO    MONTREAL.  201 

bath-house.  Along  the  same  valley  and  about  J  mile  farther  K".  is  the 
celebrated  Excelsior  /Spring,  situated  in  large  and  beautiful  grounds,  in 
which  also  is  the  Union  Spring.  At  this  point,  within  an  area  of  a 
few  acres,  over  10  mineral  springs  have  been  discovered,  the  waters  of 
which  are  not  all  utilized  ;  the  whole  property  being  owned  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  Excelsior  Spring,  which  is  deemed  the  most  valuable.  Its 
waters  are  saline  and  mildly  cathartic.  About  ^  mile  from  the  Excel- 
sior Spring  are  the  Eureka  Mineral  Spring  and  the  White  Sulphur 
Spring.  About  2  miles  to  the  S.  of  the  village  is  another  remarkable 
group  of  springs,  among  which  the  most  celebrated  are  the  Geyser., 
Carlsbad.,  Champion.,  and  Lafayette.,  all  cathartic  waters,  and  the  Kis- 
singen  and  Vichy.,  the  two  later  named  for  the  celebrated  springs  of 
Europe  whose  qualities  they  very  closely  resemble.  Both  of  these 
waters  are  delicious  beverages,  and  are  used  as  table  waters  very  ex- 
tensively. These  springs  are  reached  by  a  beautiful  drive  down  Ball- 
ston  Ave.  and  also  by  electric  railway.  They  are  surrounded  with 
picturesque  parks  and  lakes.  Most  of  this  group  of  springs  are  what 
is  known  as  spouters,  the  water  being  thrown  many  feet  into  the  air 
from  the  tubing  by  the  force  of  the  carbon  dioxide  gas  that  continually 
escapes  from  them. 

The  Putnam  Spring^  on  the  N.  side  of  Philadelphia  St.,  is  now  the 
site  of  the  Saratoga  Baths,  recently  erected  by  a  wealthy  Saratogian. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  bath-houses  in  the  country,  costing  $130,<i00, 
and  in  it  are  given  all  species  of  baths — Turkish,  Russian,  Roman,  etc. 
It  also  has  a  large  swimming  pool.  The  waters  of  the  Putnam  Spring 
are  utilized,  and  mineral  baths  are  given  to  those  who  desire  them. 
The  establishment  is  fitted  entirely  with  porcelain  tubs. 

Among  the  other  buildings  of  interest  at  Saratoga,  aside  from  the 
splendid  hotels  and  fine  private  resiliences,  are  the  Academy.,  and  the 
fine  Armory  of  the  Saratoga  Citizens'  Corps,  both  si'-.uated  in  Lake 
Ave.  The  Fompeiian  House,  adjoining  the  Windsor  Hotel  in  South 
Broadway,  is  a  reproduction  of  the  celebrated  House  of  Panza,  de- 
stroyed at  Pompeii  in  a.  d.  79.  The  reproduction  is  supposed  to  be 
historically  correct,  and  it  is  visited  by  scholars  and  students  from  all 
parts  of  the  country.  It  is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  principal  ob- 
jects of  interest  at  Saratoga.  The  Temple  Grove  Seminary  for  young 
ladies,  in  Circular  St.,  is  a  well-known  educational  institution.  All  the 
public-school  buildings  ai'e  fine  brick  structures  and  a  credit  to  the 
village.  The  Tovm  Hall.,  cor.  Broadway  and  Lake  Ave.,  contains  most 
of  the  public  offices  of  the  town  and  village.  A  fine  Convention  Hall., 
in  Broadway,  adjoining  Congress  Spring  Park,  capable  of  accommo- 
dating 5,000  people,  was  built  during  1892.  It  contains  a  suite  of 
rooms  fitted  up  for  the  exclusive  use  of  the  State  Court  of  Appeals, 
which  meets  in  June  of  each  year.  Churches  of  almost  every  de- 
nomination are  found  in  the  village,  and  several  newspapers  are  pub- 
lished. 

The  Saratoga  Race-Course,  in  L^uion  Ave.,  is  one  of  the  best- 
known  courses  in  the  country,  and  the  Southern  and  Western  horse- 
owners  find  their  animals  greatly  benefited  bv  a  season  at  Saratoga. 


202  ]^EW   YORK   TO   MONTREAL.  [lioute  ^. 

The  races  are  conducted  from  about  the  middle  of  July  to  the  middle 
of  August,  3  or  4  days  each  week,  and  are  well  patronized  by  residents 
and  visitors.  Upward  of  $100,000  has  recently  been  expended  upon 
this  property  in  various  improvements.  Beyond  the  race-course  and 
immediately  adjoining  it  are  the  handsome  grounds  of  Yaddo,  the 
summer  residence  of  Spencer  Trask,  of  New  York  city.  There  are  sev- 
eral miles  of  heavily  shaded  and  picturesque  drives  through  the 
grounds,  along  tbe  shores  of  a  succession  of  beautiful  little  lakes, 
which  are  open  to  the  public. 

To  Saratoga  liake,  a  beautiful  body  of  water,  8  miles  long  by  2^ 
wide,  3^  miles  W.  from  Saratoga,  is  the  favorite  afternoon  drive.  At 
this  lake  is  situated  the  famous  lloon's  Lake  House,  and  the  lake  has 
been  the  scene  of  many  interesting  regattas.  An  electric  railway,  hav- 
ing its  terminus  on  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  West  Congress  St., 
extends  to  Saratoga  Lake,  the  Race-Course,  and  to  "  The  Geysers," 
where  are  located  the  Kissingen,  Vichy,  Geyser,  Carlsbad,  and  other 
springs.  Around  the  lake  are  several  road-houses,  the  most  famous 
being  Moon's,  CrurrCs,  and  Riley's.  The  two  latter  vie  with  each  other 
in  the  excellence  with  which  they  prepare  the  famous  Saratoga  bass  and 
potatoes.    Game  of  all  kinds  can  also  be  procured  at  these  road-houses. 

Twelve  miles  E.  of  Saratoga  is  the  Saratoga  Battle- Ground,  where 
two  important  battles  of  the  Revolution  were  fought,  and  the  scene 
of  the  surrender  of  Gen.  John  Burgoyne.  At  Schuylersville  a  mag- 
nificent monument  has  been  erected  by  the  State  and  national  Govern- 
ments to  commemorate  these  historical  occurrences,  and  it  is  well 
worth  a  visit. 

Mt.  McGregor,  6  miles  N.  of  the  village,  and  lying  about  1,000  ft. 
higher,  now  famous  as  the  place  at  which  Gen.  Grant  died,  is  reached 
in  about  half  an  hour  by  the  Mt.  McGregor  R.  R.,  a  narrow-gauge  road 
which  ascends  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain  by  many  devious  curves. 
On  the  mountain  is  a  large  hotel  {Hotel  Balmoral)  in  the  midst  of  a 
park  of  1,000  or  more  acres  of  land.  Two  picturesque  lakes  are  situ- 
ated in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  hotel,  upon  the  mountain-top,  well 
stocked  with  fish  and  equipped  with  good  boats.  Mt.  McGregor  is  a 
desirable  resort  for  those  troubled  with  hay-fever.  From  the  brow  of 
the  mountain,  in  front  of  the  hotel,  a  most  magnificent  panorama  of 
the  upper  valley  of  the  Hudson  is  obtained.  Trains  leave  Saratoga  for 
Mt.  McGregor  several  times  daily. 

Leaving  the  spacious  depot  at  Saratoga,  the  train  runs  N.  E.  through 
an  uninteresting  country,  and  in  16  miles  reaches  Fort  Edward.  {El- 
dridge,  St.  James),  whence  a  branch  runs  to  Glens  Falls  and  Cald- 
well on  Lake  George  (see  Route  46).  Beyond  Fort  Edward  there  is 
no  important  station  until  Whitehall  (219  miles  from  JSTew  York)  is 
reached.  Whitehall  is  a  lumbering  village  of  4,434  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated at  the  head  or  S.  end  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  Hes  in  a  rude,  rocky 
ravine  at  the  foot  of  Skene's  Mt.,  and  was  a  point  of  much  importance 
during  the  French  and  Indian  Wars  and  the  Revolution,  but  contains 
nothing  now  to  detain  the  traveler.  From  Whitehall  one  route  to  Mont- 
real passes  N.  E.  via  Castleton  and  Rutland,  Vt.  (see  Routes  29  and 


Eoute  1^0.]  Iv^'EW   YORK   TO   BUFFALO.  203 

3*7).  The  present  route  runs  almost  due  X.  along  the  W.  shore  of  Lake 
Champlain.  The  lake  and  the  principal  points  of  interest  on  its  shores 
are  described  in  Route  46.  Here  we  shall  only  mention  the  special  feat- 
ures which  make  the  raihvay  journey  enjoyable. 

Soon  after  leaving  Whitehall  the  fine  scenery  begins  (seats  should 
be  obtained  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  cars).  The  R.  R.  track  runs 
close  along  the  margin  of  the  lake  at  the  foot  of  steep  bluif s,  with  fine 
views  across  the  water  of  the  Vermont  shore.  At  Fort  Ticonderoga 
(see  Route  46)  a  branch  line  diverges  and  runs  in  three  miles  to  Bald- 
win on  Lake  George  (Route  46).  At  Addison  Junction^  2  miles  from  Ti- 
conderoga, connection  is  made  with  a  railroad  which  connects  with  the 
Central  Vermont  R.  R.  at  Leicester  Junction.  From  Westport  stages 
run  to  EUzabethtown  and  other  places  in  the  Adirondacks.  From 
Ticonderoga  to  Port  Kent  (Route  46),  a  distance  of  about  55  miles, 
the  scenery  is  beautiful,  the  train  running  now  on  high  terraces,  now 
through  deep  rock-cuttings,  now  at  the  base  of  towering  cliifs,  and 
affording  exquisite  lake- views.  Port  Kent  is  one  of  the  entrances  to 
the  Adirondack  region,  a  branch  railroad  runs  from  here  to  Keeseport 
(6  miles),  stopping  on  the  way  at  Ausable  Chasm  (3  miles)  (Route  47, 
III).  Between  Port  Kent  and  Plattshurg  (309  miles  from  New  York) 
the  scenery  is  less  impressive,  but  fine  views  are  had  of  the  distant 
mountains.  Three  miles  S.  of  Plattsburg  is  BlufF  Point,  the  station  for 
Hotel  Champlain^  the  largest  hotel  on  the  lake.  Plattsburg  is  described 
in  Route  46.  Beyond  Plattsburg  the  route  leaves  the  lake  and  tra- 
verses a  comparatively  flat  and  uninteresting  country.  At  Rouseh  Point 
(334  miles)  the  train  takes  the  track  of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  and 
passes  in  50  miles  to  Montreal  (see  Route  2Y). 

45.  New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls. 

Via  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R. 

Distances  :  Easton,  75  miles :  Bethlehem,  87  miles  ;  Allentown,  92  miles  ; 
Mauch  Chunk,  121  miles  ;  "Wilkesbarre,  175  miles  ;  Towanda,  257  miles  ;  Ithaca, 
311  miles  ;  Geneva,  351  miles  ;  Buffalo,  454  miles  ;  Niagara  Falls,  465  mUes. 

Passengers  leave  Xew  York  by  ferry-boat  from  foot  of  Liberty 
St.  for  Jersey  City^  thence  by  Lehigh  Yalley  train  through  Bound 
Brook  (32  miles)  and  Flemington  Junction,  where  connection  is  made 
for  Flemington  (52  miles)  by  branch  of  this  road.  Continuing  on 
main  line,  Laiisdown  is  reached,  where  another  branch  connects  for 
Clinton  (60  miles).  Passing  through  Pattenhurg^  immediately  beyond 
where  the  Musconetcong  Tunnel,  nearly  a  mile  long,  pierces  the 
mountain,  the  Musconetcong  Yalley  is  reached.  After  passing  sev- 
eral small  towns  the  passenger  arrives  at  Phillipshurg  (75  miles, 
8,644  inhabitants),  an  iron  manufacturing  town  on  the  Delaware 
River  opposite  Easton,  Pa.,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  three 
bridges.  At  Phillipsburg  connection  is  made  with  the  Belvidere 
Division  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (See  Route  54.)  Easton  (75 
miles ;  Franklin  House^  Paxinosa  Inn,  and  United  States  Hotel)  is  situ- 
ated on  some  steep  hills,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Delaware  and  Lehigh 


204  NEW   YORK   TO    BUFFALO.  \Route  JfB. 

Rivers  and  Bushkill  Creek.  It  is  a  well-built  and  wealthy  town,  with  a 
population  of  14,481,  and  extensive  iron-works,  mills,  distilleries,  etc. 
The  Court-House,  the  County  Prison,  and  the  Opera-House  are  handsome 
buildings,  and  there  are  several  fine  churches.  To  the  E.  on  College 
Hill  is  *  Lafayette  College^  a  richly  endowed  institution,  with  28  instruct- 
ors and  297  students,  an  extensive  hbrary,  and  fine  scientific  collections. 
Pardee  Hall  is  a  handsome  building,  and  from  its  tower  there  is  a  noble  view. 
The  curious  Durham  Cave  is  near  Easton,  and  3It.  Jefferson  is  an  abrupt 
peak  in  the  center  of  the  town.  Fiom  Easton  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R. 
runs  along  the  Lehigh  River  amid  pleasing  scenery,  and  in  12  miles 
reaches  Bethlehem  and  South  Bethlehem  \%1  miles;  Eagle, 
Wyandotte,  and  Sun),  with  a  combined  population  of  17,064  inhabitants : 
Bethlehem  is  noted  as  the  chief  seat  in  the  United  States  of  the  Mora- 
vians, or  United  Brethren,  who  settled  here  under  Count  Zinzendorf  in 
1741.  The  old  Moravian  buildings  for  the  most  part  still  remain,  and 
the  principal  ones,  which  are  built  of  stone  and  stand  in  Church  St., 
near  Main,  are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation  and  are  still  occupied. 
The  Iforavian  Church  is  a  spacious  stone  structure  capable  of  seating 
2,000  persons.  Xear  the  church  is  the  Moravian  Boys'  School,  and 
there  is  also  a  Moravian  Female  Seminary  of  high  repute,  founded  in 
1*749,  and  still  flourishing.  The  Srm  Hotel  was  opened  as  an  inn  in 
1*760,  and,  though  greatly  enlarged  in  1851,  still  retains  its  ancient  and 
massive  walls.  On  a  spur  of  the  Lehigh  Mts.  above  the  town  is  the 
^Lehigh  University,  founded  in  1865  and  liberally  endowed  by  the  Hon. 
Asa  Packer.  From  the  park  around  the  buildings  there  is  a  view  of 
20  miles.  At  this  point  also  is  located  the  extensive  plant  of  the 
Bethlehem  Iron  Co.,  employing  more  than  4,000  hands.  This  industry 
has  in  the  past  few  years  been  brought  into  prominence  on  account  of 
the  contracts  received  from  the  United  States  Government  for  the 
manufacture  of  guns,  heavy  armor-plate,  etc.  Five  miles  beyond 
Bethlehem  the  train  reaches  AUentOAvn  {American,  Eagle,  and  Hotel 
Allen),  a  thriving  city  of  25,228  inhabitants,  built  upon  an  eminence 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Lehigh  River.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  and 
well  built,  with  electric-car  service  on  the  streets.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  enterprising  cities  in  eastern  Pennsylvania,  and  has  within  its 
boundaries  extensive  blast-works,  furnaces,  rolling-mills,  silk-mills, 
furniture- factories,  barb- wire,  thread- works,  etc.  The  County  Court- 
House  and  County  Prison  are  handsome  edifices,  and  several  of  the 
school-buildings  are  noteworthy.  Muhlenberg  College  (Lutheran)  stands 
amid  ample  grounds  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  city.  *  Mammoth  Rock, 
1,000  ft.  high  and  commanding  broad  views,  is  near  the  city,  as  are  also 
several  mineral  springs.  At  this  point  connection  is  made  with  the 
Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.  for  Reading,  Lancaster,  Columbia, 
Lebanon,  and  Harrisburg.  Leaving  Allentown  the  Lehigh  Yalley  R.  R. 
runs  by  a  number  of  huge  blast-furnaces,  and  in  three  miles  reaches 
Catasaqua  (95  miles),  a  thriving  village,  population  3,Y04,  with  vast 
iron-works,  furnaces,  and  car-shops.  Hokendauqua  (96  miles)  and 
Coplay  (9*7  miles)  are  also  the  site  of  immense  iron-works,  and  at  the 
latter  point  are  also  large  cement-works.     Slatington  (108  miles)  is  in 


Route  45.]  NEW    YORK   TO    BUFFALO.  205 

the  midst  of  the  most  extensive  slate  deposits  ever  discovered.  The 
slate  on  the  Cipitol  at  Washington,  D.  C,  -J  inch  in  thickness,  came 
from  this  place.  The  village  is  charmingly  situated,  and  is  a  pleasant 
summer  resort.  Two  miles  beyond  Slatington  is  the  Lehigh  Water- 
Gap,  a  picturesque  gorge  in  which  the  Lehigh  River  flows  through 
the  Blue  Mountains.  Steep,  forest-clad  cliffs  rise  from  the  water  on 
either  side,  and  there  is  barely  room  in  the  narrow  pass  for  the  river, 
railroad,  highway,  and  canal.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  remarka- 
bly wild  and  impressive.  Four  miles  beyond  Lehigh  Gap  we  reach 
lAzzarcl  Greek  Junction^  from  which  a  branch  of  the  Lehigh  Valley 
R.  R.  extends  through  Orwigslmrg  and  Schuylkill  Haven  to  Pottsvilie 
(149  miles).  (See  Route  56.)  Continuing  on  the  main  line  from  Lizard 
Creek  Junction  we  reach  Ze/wp-A/on  (llY  miles),  which  is  situated  on 
the  Lehigh  River  at  the  mouth  of  Mahoning  Creek.  The  old  Moravian 
Cemetery  is  on  the  hill,  from  which  may  be  had  a  fine  view  of  the  Ma- 
honing Valley)  and  at  the  foot  of  which  12  settlers  were  murdered  by 
the  Indians  in  1775,  At  Weissport,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
formerly  stood  Fort  Allen,  erected  by  Benjamin  Franklin  in  1756  as  a 
frontier  defense.  Its  site  is  now  occupied  by  the  Fort  Allen  Hotel. 
At  Packerto7i  (119  miles)  are  the  vast  scales,  123  feet  long,  with  a  ca- 
pacity of  103  tons,  which  weigh  loaded  coal  trains  while  in  motion. 
At  this  point  are  also  located  the  car-shops  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R. 
Co.  Just  beyond  the  train  crosses  the  Lehigh  River  on  an  iron  bridge, 
runs  along  the  base  of  Bear  Mountain,  and  stops  at  Mauch  Chunk, 

Mauch  Chunk. 

Mauch  Chunk  [American^  Broadway^  and  the  3fansion)  is  noted  for 
being  situated  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the  wildest  and  most  picturesque 
scenery  in  America,  the  town  lying  in  a  narrow  gorge  between  and 
among  high  mountains,  its  foot  resting  on  the  Lehigh  River  and  its 
body  lying  along  the  hillsides.  The  town  is  but  one  street  wide,  and 
the  valley  is  so  narrow  that  the  dwelling-houses  usually  have  their  gar- 
dens and  outhouses  perched  above  the  roof,  and  there  is  barely  room 
for  the  railroad,  street,  river,  and  canal,  w^hich  pass  through  the  gorge 
side  by  side.  The  chief  architectural  features  of  the  village  are  *  St. 
MarFs  Church  (Episcopal),  a  fine  edifice  of  cream-colored  stone  with 
stained-glass  windows  and  massive  tower,  and  the  fine  railroad  building 
erected  by  the  Packer  estate.  Prospect  Rock  is  a  projecting  bluff  near 
the  Mansion  House,  from  which  a  pleasant  view  may  be  had ;  but  the 
view  from  Flag-staff  Peak^  just  above,  is  much  finer,  and  the  ascent  is 
easily  made. 

Mauch  Chunk  lies  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Pennsylvania  coal-region, 
and  the  coal-traffic  sends  many  trains  through  the  town  every  day  and 
a  constant  procession  of  canal-boats.  The  coal-mines  which  supply  this 
traffic  are  situated  in  the  Wyoming,  Hazelton,  Beaver  Meadow,  Mahanoy, 
and  Lehigh  regions.  The  coal  from  Panther-Creek  Valley  used  to  be 
brought  this  distance  by  the  celebrated  "  Switch-Back  "  Gravity  Road 
(the  Mauch  Chunk  &  ^Summit  Hill  R.  R.).  The  "  Switch-Back "  is 
now  used  only  as  a  pleasure  road.     It  is  run  by  gravity.     The  cars  are 


206  NEW   YOEK   TO   BUFFALO.  [Boute  1^5. 

drawn  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Pisgah  by  a  powerful  engine  on  the  sum- 
mit, whence  they  descend  6  miles,  by  gravity,  to  the  foot  of  Mt.  Jeffer- 
son, where  they  are  again  taken  up  by  means  of  a  plane,  which  ascends 
462  ft.  in  a  length  of  2,0Y0  ft.,  and  then  run  on  to  Summit  Hill.  From 
that  point  the  cars  return,  all  the  way,  by  the  "  back-track,"  or  gravity 
road,  to  Mauch  Chunk,  landing  the  passengers  but  a  short  distance  from 
the  spot  where  they  began  the  ascent  over  Mt.  Pisgah.  Several  passen- 
ger-trains daily  run  between  the  station  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Pisgah  and 
the  mines ;  and  the  excursion  is  both  novel  and  enjoyable.  The  time 
required  for  the  circuit  is  about  three  hours  ;  fare,  round  trip,  75  c.  An 
omnibus,  connecting  with  the  trains,  rmis  fi"om  the  Mansion  House  to 
the  foot  of  the  inchned  plane  (fare,  25c.).  The  first  plane  is  2,322  ft. 
long,  and  leads  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Pisgah  (850  ft.  above  the  river), 
from  which  a  noble  view  is  obtained.  Mt.  Jefferson  is  the  highest  point 
on  the  road,  which  descends  thence  on  a  slight  grade  to  Summit  Hill, 
on  which  is  a  mining  village  of  2,816  inhabitants,  with  a  church,  sev- 
eral hotels,  and  other  evidences  of  civilization.  Summit  Hill  is  a  good 
deal  resorted  to  in  summer.  Beyond  Summit  Hill  the  center  of  the  coal- 
region  is  reached.  Visitors  desirous  of  enjoying  the  experience  of  being 
"  down  in  the  mines  "  can  do  so  by  lying  over  here  for  a  few  hours. 
The  return  to  Mauch  Chunk  is  by  a  descending  grade  of  96  ft.  to  the 
mile,  and  the  entire  9  miles  is  traversed  in  about  25  minutes. 

Two  miles  beyond  Mauch  Chunk,  and  on  the  main  line  of  the  Le- 
high Valley  E.  R.,  is  *  Gleoi  Onoko  (123  miles;  ^Vahneta  Hotel)^  a  wild 
and  beautiful  ravine  on  the  side  of  Broad  Mt.  It  is  900  yards  long 
and  from  40  to  80  ft.  wide,  and  presents  a  continuous  succession  of 
cascades,  i^apids,  and  pools,  which  -afford  a  fine  spectacle  in  seasons 
of  high  water.  From  the  upper  end  of  the  Glen  a  path  leads  to  the 
Rock  Cabin  and  to  Packer'' s  Pointy  whence  there  is  an  extensive  view. 
Glen  Onoko^  in  point  of  natural  scenery  and  picturesque  beauty, 
surpasses  anything  of  its  kind  in  the  country,  not  excepting  the  far- 
famed  Watkins  Glen,  and  is  visited  annually  by  thousands  of  tourists. 
At  Penn  Haven  Junction^  6  miles  above  Glen  Onoko,  three  branch  roads 
of  this  line  diverge  to  the  coal  regions,  where  are  situated  many  large 
towns,  prominent  among  which  are  Mahanoy  City,  Shenandoah,  Ash- 
land, Shamokin,  Audenried,  Hazleton,  and  Freeland.  Leaving  Penn 
Haven  Junction  on  the  main  line,  and  still  following  the  Lehigh  River, 
the  next  place  of  importance  reached  is  White  Haven  (145  miles), 
population  1,634,  an  important  lumbering  village.  Here  the  ascent  of 
the  mountains  begins  with  heavy  grades,  passing  Glen  Summit  (156 
miles)  where  Glen  Summit  Hotel  is,  which  stands  at  the  apex  of  the 
great  divide,  from  whose  summit  the  waters  flow  westward  into  the 
Susquehanna  and  eastward  into  the  Lehigh  Rivers.  It  is  situated  at 
an  altitude  of  2,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  overlooking  mountain  peaks  and 
ranges,  valleys  and  basins ;  is  altogether  a  peerless  mountain  summer 
resort.  A  number  of  handsome  cottages  now  dot  the  mountain-sides, 
and  more  are  in  course  of  construction.  In  point  of  architecture  no 
two  are  alike,  and  all  are  models  of  beauty.  The  walks  and  drives, 
which  are  broad  and  well  kept,  lead  in  every  direction,  and  are  trav- 


Route  Jf5.'\  ]SrEW   YORK   TO    BUFFALO.  207 

ersed  daily  by  the  sojourners.  An  especially  fine  drive  is  that  to  Bear 
Creek  (8  miles),  another  beautiful  little  summer  resort,  which  is  also 
reached  by  railroad  (the  Bear  Creek  Branch)  from  Bear  Creek  Junc- 
tion, a  few  miles  north  of  White  Haven. 

The  summit  of  the  mountain  is-  reached  at  Fairvietv  (159  miles), 
and  the  descent  to  the  Wyoming  Valley  commences.  Neicpo^^t  {\<6& 
miles)  stands  high  and  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Wyoming 
Valley,  the  Susquehanna  River  being  visible  for  more  than  20  miles 
from  its  entry  through  Lackawannock  Gap,  near  Pittston,  to  its  exit 
through  Nanticoke  Gap,  near  Shickshinny.  Nine  miles  beyond  Newport^ 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  Susquehanna  River,  in  the  center  of  the 
Wyoming  Valley,  is  Wilkesbarre  (175  miles;  Wyoming  Vadey  Hotel^ 
Luzerne  House^  The  Exchange,  and  Bristol  House),  a  prosperous  city 
of  37,718  inhabitants,  with  broad,  well-shaded  streets,  and  handsome 
public  and  private  buildings.  The  Court-house,  County  Prison,  Opera- 
House,  and  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building  are  all  fine  structures.  There  is  also 
a  very  good  public  library  and  several  costly  churches.  Many  fine 
villa  residences  front  upon  the  esplanade  along  the  river.  Back  of 
the  city  and  about  2  miles  distant  is  Prospect  Rod-,  which  is  750  feet 
high,  and  affords  the  best  view  of  the  entire  Wyoming  Valley.  A 
small  steamer  runs  on  the  Susquehanna  from  Wilkesbarre  to  Nanti- 
coke (7  miles),  and  affords  fine  views  of  the  lower  portion  of  the  valley, 
which,  however,  are  best  seen  by  a  drive  along  the  river  road.  A 
bridge  across  the  river  connects  Wilkesbarre  with  Kingston,  4 
miles  above  which,  near  the  hamlet  of  Troy,  is  the  site  of  Forty  Fort^ 
where  the  unfortunate  battle  of  Wyoming  was  fought.  Near  by  is 
the  Wyoming  Monument,  a  massive  granite  obelisk,  63  feet  high, 
with  appropriate  inscriptions.  About  3  miles  above  Forty  Fort  is 
Queen  Esther'' s  Rock,  so  called  from  the  half-breed  Indian  woman 
(Queen  of  the  Senecas),  who  there  avenged  her  son's  death  by  toma- 
hawking 14  American  soldiers  with  her  own  hand. 

The  Valley  of  Wyoming  is  about  20  miles  long  and  3  miles  wide,  being 
formed  by  two  parallel  ranges  of  mountains,  averaging  on  the  west  about  800 
and  on  the  east  1,000  ft.  in  height.  It  is  traversed  by  the  Susquehanna  Elver, 
which  enters  its  iipper  end  through  a  bold  mountain-pass  known  as  the  Lacka- 
wannock Gap,  and  passes  out  of  its  lower  end  through  another  opening  in  the 
same  mountain  called  Nanticoke  Gap.  The  river  is  m  most  places  about  200 
yards  wude,  and  from  4  to  20  ft.  deep  ;  it  moves  with  a  very  gentle  current, 
except  at  the  rapids  or  when  swollen  with  rain  or  melted  snows.  Near  the 
center  of  the  valley  it  has  a  rapid,  called  Wyoming  Falls,  and  another  at  the 
lower  gap,  called  the  Nanticoke  Falls.  Several  tributary  streams  fall  into  it 
on  each  side,  after  traversing  rocky  passes,  and  forming  beautiful  cascades  as 
they  descend  to  the  plain.  Describing  this  valley,  the  elder  Silliman  says  :  "  Its 
form  is  that  of  a  very  long  oval  or  ellipse.  It  is  bounded  by  grand  mount- 
ain-barriers, and  watered  by  a  noble  river  and  its  tributaries.  The  first  glance 
of  a  stranger  entering  it  at  either  end,  or  crossing  the  mountaiu-rideres  which 
divide  it  (like  the  Happy  Valley  of  Abyssinia)  from  the  rest  of  the  world,  fills 
him  with  peculiar  pleasure,  produced  by  a  fine  landscape,  containing  richness, 
beauty,  and  grandeur.  .  .  .  Few  landscapes  that  I  have  beheld  can  vie  with  the 
Valley  of  Wyoming."  The  Massacre  of  Wyoming,  which  has  given  the  valley 
a  melancholy  prominence  in  history,  and  which  forms  the  theme  of  CampbelPs 
"Gertrude  of  Wyoming,"  occurred  on  July  3,  1778.  The  settlers,  who  had  pre- 
viously been  at  variance  on  account  of  being  interested  in  charters  from  differ- 
ent authorities,  had,  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution,  united  in  an  effort  to 


208  NEW    YORK    TO    BFFFxlLO.  [Route  1^5. 

form  a  home-guard  for  self -protection.  Two  of  the  companies  thus  formed 
were  ordered  to  join  General  Washington,  and  a  third,  imperfectly  organized 
and  equipped,  was  unequal  to  the  terrible  need  that  soon  arose.  A  "body  ot  400 
British  and  700  Indians,  chiefly  Senecas,  under  Colonel  John  Butler,  entered  the 
valley  June  30,  1778  ;  and  the  inhabitants,  having  taken  refuge  in  Fort  Forty 
(so  called  from  the  number  in  one  of  the  bands  of  settlers),  gave  battle  on  the 
3d  of  July  and  lost.  Then  followed  the  terrible  massacre,  which,  though  it  was 
exaggerated  at  the  time,  has  had  few  parallels  in  American  history.  Neither 
age  nor  sex  was  spared,  and  but  few  of  the  ill-fated  people  escaped  by  fleeing 
over  the  mountains  to  Stroudsburg.  The  village  of  Wilkesbarre  was  burnt,  and 
its  inhabitants  either  killed,  taken  prisoners,  or  scattered  in  the  suiTOunding  for- 
ests.   Upward  of  300  persons  are  estimated  to  have  perished  on  that  fatal  day. 

At  Wilkesbarre  connection  is  made  with  the  Delaware  &  Hudson 
R.  R.  for  Scranton  from  all  Lehigh  Valley  trains.  At  Wilkesbai're 
also  the  Harvey's  Lake  Branch  diverges  from  the  main  line  at  a  very 
heavy  grade  through  a  natural  glen,  noted  for  its  picmresque  scenery, 
at  the  present  terminus  of  which  is  Harvey's  Lake,  the  largest  body  of 
fresh  water  at  that  altitude  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Harvey's 
Lake  is  a  summer  resort,  fast  coming  into  popular  favor  and  exten- 
sively patronized  by  picnic  parties.  It  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  lum- 
bering regions  of  eastern  Pennsylvania ;  much  lumber  is  cut,  and  there 
are  numerous  saw-mills  in  continual  operation,  with  capacity  of  many 
thousands  of  feet  daily. 

Nine  miles  beyond  Wilkesbarre  is  Pittston  (184  miles),  popula- 
tion 10,302,  at  the  head  of  the  valley  on  the  Susquehanna,  just  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Lackawaima  Creek.  W.  of  the  town  are  the  Lacka- 
wanna Mountains,  tilled  with  rich  coal-mines,  which  here  £nd  an  out- 
let. A  prominent  object  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  is  CampheWs  Ledge^ 
from  which  a  charming  view  of  the  valley  is  obtained.  One  mile  be- 
yond Pittston,  at  L.  &  B.  Junction^  trains  of  the  Bloomsburg  Division 
of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.  connect  for  Scranton. 
(See  Route  52.) 

On  the  portion  of  the  main  line  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  beyond 
L.  &  B.  Junction  the  scenery  continues  varied  and  pleasing  and  at 
times  impressive.  Tunkhannock  (207  miles)  is  the  capital  of  Wyoming 
County,  and  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Susquehanna  at  the  mouth 
of  Tunkhannock  Creek.  From  Triangle  Hill,  near  by,  there  is  a  broad 
view.  Connection  is  here  made  with  the  Montrose  R.  R.  for  Montrose. 
The  Susquehanna  River  between  Pittston  and  Towanda  is  noted  as  be- 
ing the  finest  bass-fishing  stream  in  the  United  States. 

Still  following  the  Susquehanna  River  amid  changing  forest  and 
hill  scenery,  the  train  passes  a  number  of  small  stations  and  reaches 
Towanda  (257  miles),  a  busy  manufacturing  town  of  4,169  inhabit- 
ants, situated  on  the  river  at  the  mouth  of  Towanda  Creek.  It  is  much 
visited  in  summer,  and  has  a  lucrative  trade  in  farm  and  dairy  produce 
with  the  surrounding  region.  At  this  point  the  State  Line  &  Sullivan 
Branch  extends  for  a  distance  of  34  miles  into  the  lumbering  regions 
of  Sullivan  County.  Fifteen  miles  beyond  Towanda  is  Athens  (272 
miles),  a  flourishing  village  at  the  confluence  of  the  Susquehanna  and 
Chemung  Rivers.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  important  Indian  village 
of  Diahoga,  which  was  the  gathering-place  of  the  Tory-Indian  forces 


Eoute  J^G.]  LAKE   GEORGE.  209 

that  perpetrated  the  massacre  of  Wyoming,  Near  by  is  Spanish  Hill, 
on  which  ancient  Spanish  coins  are  said  to  have  been  found.  Crossing 
the  Chemung  River  at  Athens,  the  train  reaches  Sayre  (274  miles),  the 
headquarters  of  the  Northern  Division  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  Twe 
miles  beyond  is  Waverly  (276  miles),  where  the  train  enters  the  Stato 
of  New  York.  Reaching  Elmira  (294  miles),  connection  is  made  with 
the  Erie  Railway  for  all  points  E.  and  W.    (For  Elmira,  see  Route  41.) 

At  Sayre  another  branch  line  diverges,  running  through  Owego  (293 
miles),  Freeville,  and  many  smaller  towns  to  Auburn  (360  miles)  (see 
page  175),  connecting  there  with  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 
R.  R.  This  branch,  continuing  from  Auburn,  extends  to  Weedsport 
(369  miles),  connecting  there  with  the  West  Shore  R.  R.,  thence  to 
Sterling  (388  miles),  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  and  ending  at  Fair  Haven  (390  miles),  on 
Lake  Ontario. 

Leaving  Sayre  on  the  main  line,  the  road  traverses  rich  farming 
districts,  passing  through  Van  Etten,  Spencer,  West  Dauby,  Newjield,  and. 
reaches  Ithaca  (311  miles).  (See  page  175.)  Leaving  the  city,  the  line  con- 
tinues along  the  shore  of  Cayuga  Lake,  reveling  in  scenes  of  enchant- 
ing loveliness  as  it  gradually  surrounds  the  hills  on  its  way  to  Seneca 
Lake,  passing  Taghanic  Falls,  one  of  the  most  noted,  possibly,  of  all 
the  falls  in  this  part  of  the  State.  Its  interesting  features  are  the 
deep  ravine,  its  extraordinary  height,  and  sharply  defined  outlines. 
The  view  of  the  lake  and  the  surrounding  country  at  this  point  is  truly 
grand.  The  water  breaks  over  a  clear-cut  table  rock,  falling  vertically 
215  feet.  Twelve  miles  beyond  Taghanic  Falls,  Sheldrake  is  reached, 
where  Cayuga  Lake  Hotel  stands,  a  well-managed  summer  resort. 
Cayuga  Lake  is  about  40  miles  long,  varying  from  1  to  4  miles  wide, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  inland  bodies  of  water  in  the  world. 
It  is  441  feet  above  tide-water,  and  196  feet  above  Lake  Ontario.  Con- 
tinuing on  the  main  line,  we  reach  Geneva  (351  miles),  at  the  foot  of 
Seneca  Lake.  (See  Route  40.)  From  this  point  the  line  of  the  Lehigh. 
Valley  R.  R.  continues,  passing  through  Clifton  Springs  (363  miles),  till 
Rochester  Junction  is  reached,  where,  by  branch  line  of  the  Lehigh  Val- 
ley R.  R.,  connection  is  made  for  Rochester,  14  miles  distant  (400 
miles  from  New  York).  (See  Route  40.)  Continuing  on  the  main  line 
from  Rochester  Junction,  Batavia  {4:1'7  miles)  is  reached,  where  the  train 
is  divided — one  portion  running  to  Buffalo  (454  miles),  and  the  other 
portion  to  Niagara  Falls  (465  miles)  and  Suspension  Bridge. 

46.  Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain. 

The  direct  approach  to  Lake  George  is  by  Route  44  to  Fort  Edward, 
whence  a  branch  road  runs  in  15  miles  to  Caldwell,  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  passing  through  Glens  Falls  {American,  Rockioell),  a  village 
of  9,509  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Hudson  River,  at  a  fine  cata- 
ract 50  ft.  high,  at  which  many  travelers  might  feel  an  interest  in 
stopping  before  they  reach  Lake  George.  The  falls  are  very  fine,  and 
the  spot  is  of  peculiar  interest  as  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  thrill- 
14 


210  LAKE   GEOEGE.  [Route  46. 

ing  incidents  of  Cooper's  romance,  "  The  Last  of  the  Mohicans,"  which 
all  lovers  of  American  literature  will  remember.  About  2  miles  from 
the  lake,  in  a  dark  glen,  the  road  passes  in  sight  of  the  Williams  3Ion- 
ument,  a  plain  marble  shaft  erected  on  the  spot  where  Col.  Ephraim 
Williams,  founder  of  Williams  College,  fell  in  a  battle  with  the  French 
and  English,  Sept.  8,  1755.  Near  by  is  the  storied  Bloody  Pond,  into 
which  the  bodies  of  the  slain  were  cast  after  the  battle,  tingeing  its 
waters  for  many  years  (according  to  the  legend)  with  a  sanguine  hue. 
The  approach  to  the  lake  is  very  impressive,  fine  but  fleeting  glimpses 
being  caught  of  its  gleaming  waters  and  blue  hills.  Finally,  as  the 
train  reaches  Caldwell  (Poj^t  William  Henri/  Hotel,  Lake  House,  The 
Croshyside,  Carpenter'' s),  the  whole  glorious  scene  bursts  upon  the  view. 
Caldwell  is  a  small  village  at  the  S.  end  of  Lake  George,  much  vis- 
ited in  summer,  and  chiefly  noted  for  its  hotels.  The  Fort  William 
Henry  Hotel  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  Fort  William  Henry,  remnants 
of  which  are  still  visible,  and  from  its  spacious  piazzas  an  unrivaled 
view  of  the  lake  is  obtained.  About  ^  mile  to  the  S.  E.  are  the  pictur- 
esque ruins  of  Fort  George,  and  the  outlook  embraces  French  and  Pros- 
pect Mountains,  and  Rattlesnake  Hill,  all  of  which  may  be  ascended 
from  the  village.  Many  persons  spend  the  season  at  Caldwell,  making 
excursions  to  the  various  points  of  interest  on  the  lake.  The  fishing  is 
excellent,  and  pleasure-boats  may  be  obtained  in  any  numbers. 

Lake  George  is  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water  in  Warren  and  Wash- 
ington Counties,  N,  Y.,  33  miles  long  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.,  and  from  f 
of  a  mile  to  4  miles  wide.  It  is  the  most  famous  and  most  frequented 
of  American  lakes,  and  is  remarkable  alike  for  the  pellucid  clearness  of 
its  water,  its  multitude  of  little  islands,  popularly  supposed  to  corre- 
spond in  number  with  the  days  of  the  year,  and  the  beautiful  scenery  of 
its  banks.  The  lake  is  bordered  on  either  side  by  high  hills,  which  here 
recede  from  the  undulating  shore,  there  lift  their  wooded  crests  in  the 
distance,  and  again  hang  rugged  cliffs  over  the  water,  or  project  bold 
promontories  into  its  placid  depths.  It  empties  to  the  N.  into  Lake 
Champlain,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  narrow  ridge  only  4  miles 
wide ;  and,  except  in  its  widest  part,  seems  more  like  a  river  than  a  lake. 
The  Indian  name  of  Lake  George  was  "  Andiatarocte,"  which  meant 
"  the  tail  of  the  lake,"  while  "  Horicon  "  (meaning  "  silvery  waters  ") 
is  a  fanciful  title  given  by  James  Fenimore  Cooper,  Avho  objected  to 
its  present  name.  When  the  French  discovered  it,  early  in  the  seven- 
teenth century,  they  named  it  "Le  Lac  du  St.  Sacrement"  (Lake  of  the 
Holy  Sacrament),  but  its  English  conquerors  called  it  after  King  George 
II,  then  on  the  throne. 

Lake  George  fills  a  conspicuous  and  romantic  place  in  American  history. 
For  more  than  a  century  it  was  a  channel  of  communication  between  Canada 
and  the  settlements  on  the  Hudson.  In  the  French  and  Indian  War  it  was  re- 
peatedlj^  occupied  by  large  armies,  and  was  the  scene  of  several  battles.  In  an 
engagement  near  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  September  8,  175.5,  between  the  French 
and  the  English,  Colonel  Williams,  of  Massachusetts,  the  founder  of  Williams 
College,  was  killed,  Baron  Dieskau,  the  French  commander,  severely  wounded, 
and  the  French  totally  defeated  (see  above).  In  1757  Fort  William  Henry,  at 
the  same  end  of  the  lake,  was  besieged  by  the  French  General  Montcalm,  at 
the  head  of  8,000  men.    The  garrison  capitulated  after  a  gallant  defense,  and 


Route  Jf6.]  LAKE    GEORGE.  211 

were  barbarously  massacred  by  the  Indian  allies  of  the  French.  In  July.  1758, 
the  army  of  General  Abercrombie,  about  15,000  strong,  passed  up  the  lake  in 
1,000  boats,  and  made  an  unsuccessful  attack  on  Ticonderoga.  A  year  later 
(July,  1759)  General  Amherst,  with  an  almost  equal  force,  also  traversed  the 
lake',  and  took  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point.  The  head  of  Lake  George  was 
the  depot  for  the  stores  of  the  army  of  General  Burgoyne  before  he  began  his 
march  to  Saratoga. 

A  steamer  leaves  daily  from  Caldwell  for  Baldwin  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  lake  and  returns  in  the  afternoon  (fare  either  way  $2,  which  entitles 
the  passenger  to  return  free  the  same  day).  Leaving  the  pier  in  front 
of  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel,  the  steamer  touches  at  the  docks  of  the 
Lake  House,  and  then  crosses  to  Crosbyside,  opposite  Caldwell,  and  the 
site  of  the  spacious  and  popular  Croshyside  Hotel.  About  a  mile  N.  of 
Crosbyside  is  St.  Mary's  on  the  Lake.,  the  summer  retreat  of  the  Paulist 
Fathers.  The  nearest  island  to  Caldwell,  about  1  mile  distant,  is  Tea 
Mand.,  so  called  from  a  "  tea-house  "  once  erected  there  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  visitors,  but  of  which  only  the  stone  walls  now  remain. 
This  island  is  covered  with  noble  trees,  and  bordered  v>^ith  picturesque 
rocks,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  picnic  and  boating  parties.  A  mile 
and  a  half  beyond  is  Diamond  Island,  so  named  on  account  of  the 
beautiful  quartz-crystals  found  on  it  in  abundance.  Here,  in  fZYV,  vs^as 
a  military  depot  of  Burgoyne' s  army,  and  here  a  severe  skirmish  oc- 
curred in  that  year  between  the  garrison  and  a  detachment  of  New  Eng- 
land militia,  in  which  the  latter  were  signally  worsted.  Xext  beyond 
are  the  two  diminutive  islets  known  as  the  Two  Sisters^  and  along  the 
E.  shore  is  Lonff  Island^  which  appears  from  the  boat  to  be  part  of  the 
main  shore.  Just  above  is  Ferris's  Bay,  where  Montcalm  moored  his 
boats  and  landed  his  troops  in  1757.  Dome  Island,  a  richly  wooded 
island,  is  about  10  miles  from  Caldwell,  near  the  center  of  the  widest 
part  of  the  lake.  Putnam's  troops  took  shelter  here,  while  he  went  to 
apprise  General  Webb  of  the  movements  of  the  enemy  at  the  mouth  of 
Northwest  Bay.,  which  here  runs  in  to  the  W.  A  little  W.  of  Dome 
Island  is  the  "  Hermitage,"  or  *  Recluse  Island.,  on  which  a  neat  villa 
has  been  erected  among  the  trees,  and  a  graceful  bridge  thrown 
over  to  a  little  dot  of  an  island  close  at  hand,  named  Shop  Island., 
from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  a  sloop,  when  seen  from  a  certain  point 
of  view.  Pilot  Mountain  is  a  precipitous  peak  on  the  E.  shore,  at  the 
foot  of  which  are  the  Trout  Pavilion  and  the  Kattskill  House.,  favorite 
resorts  for  anglers  and  sportsmen.  Near  these  hotels  are  the  best  fish- 
ing-places on  the  lake,  and  the  wooded  mountains  in  the  rear  afford 
good  hunting.  From  this  point,  the  steamer  runs  nearly  due  N.  to  Bol- 
ton, passing  between  Dome  and  Recluse  Islands,  already  mentioned. 
Bolton  is  a  village  on  the  W.  shore,  the  largest  on  the  lake  after  Cald- 
well, and  has  fine  hotels  (the  Bolton,  Lake  View,  and  Mohican  House). 
A  bridge  connects  Bolton  with  Green  Island,  on  which  is  the  Saga- 
more, a  charmingly  situated  hotel.  Back  of  the  village  is  Prospect 
Mountain.  Ganouskie  Bay  extends  for  5  miles  above  Bolton,  and  is 
closed  in  on  the  E.  by  Tongue  Mo?(ntain,  which  comes  in  literally  like 
a  tongue  of  the  lake,  into  the  center  of  which  it  seems  to  protrude, 
with  the  bay  on  one  side,  and  the  main  passage  of  the  waters  on  the 


212  LAKE  GEORGE.  [Route  Ji,6. 

other.  On  the  right  or  E.  shore,  nearly  opposite  the  Tongue,  is  the  bold 
semicircular  palisade  called  Shelving  Rock.  Passing  this  picturesque 
feature  of  the  landscape,  and  afterward  the  point  of  Tongue  Mountain, 
we  come  to  Fourteen-Mile  Island.,  at  the  entrance  of  the  "  Narrows," 
where  there  is  a  large  hotel.  On  the  mainland,  about  1  mile  S.  of 
Fourteen-Mile  Island,  is  Shelving-Rock  Fall.,  situated  on  a  small  stream, 
which  empties  into  Shelving-Rock  Ba)^  It  is  a  very  picturesque 
cascade,  and  is  much  resorted  to  by  picnic-parties.  At  *The  Nar- 
rows the  shores  of  the  lake  approach  each  other,  the  space  be- 
tween being  crowded  with  islands.  This  is  the  most  picturesque  and 
striking  portion  of  the  lake  scenery,  and  enthusiastic  visitors  have  de- 
clared it  to  be  unsurpassed  for  beauty  by  any  of  the  famous  lakes  of 
Switzerland  or  Scotland.  On  the  E.  is  Black  Mountain.,  the  highest  of 
the  peaks  that  line  the  lake-shore.  It  is  well  wooded  at  its  base,  though 
frequent  fires  have  swept  over  its  surface,  while  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  stands  out  rocky  and  bare.  Its  height  is  2,8*78  ft.,  and  the  view 
from  the  summit  is  very  extensive.  The  ascent  is  easy  from  either  Black 
Mountain  Point  or  Hulett's  Landing.  Beyond  Black  Mountain  the  steamer 
passes  Sugar-Loaf  Mountain,  on  the  E. ;  Bosom  Bay.,  with  the  little  vil- 
lage of  Hulett's  Landing ;  and  Deerh-Leap  Mountain,  on  the  W.,  said  to 
be  so  named  from  the  tragical  fate  of  a  buck,  which,  being  hotly  pursued 
by  a  hunter  and  his  dogs,  leaped  over  the  precipitous  side  of  the  mount- 
ain facing  the  lake,  and  was  impaled  on  a  shai'p-pointed  tree  below. 

Emerging  from  the  Narrows  on  the  N.,  we  approach  a  long,  pro- 
jecting slip  of  fertile  land  known  as  Sahhath-Day  Point.  This  spot  is 
memorable  as  the  scene  of  a  fight  in  1756  between  the  colonists  and  a 
party  of  French  and  Indians.  The  former,  sorely  pressed,  and  unable 
to  escape  across  the  lake,  made  a  bold  defense  and  defeated  the  enemy, 
killing  very  many  of  their  men.  In  17*76  Sabbath-Day  Point  was  again 
the  scene  of  a  battle  between  some  American  militia  and  a  party  of 
Indians  and  Tories,  when  the  latter  were  repulsed  and  some  40  of  their 
number  were  killed  and  wounded.  This  part  of  Lake  George  is  even 
more  charming  in  its  views,  both  up  and  down  the  lake,  than  it  is 
in  its  numerous  historical  reminiscences.  On  a  calm,  sunny  day  the 
romantic  passage  of  the  Narrows,  as  seen  to  the  S.,  is  wonderfully  fine ; 
while  in  the  other  direction  is  the  broad  bay  or  widening  of  the  lake, 
entered  as  the  boat  passes  Sabbath-Day  Point.  On  the  W.  side  of  this 
widening  of  the  lake  (which  is  here  4  miles  across)  is  the  picturesque 
little  village  of  Hague,  from  which  is  seen  the  ridge  called  the  "  Three 
Brothers."  It  has  several  good  hotels,  and  near  it  are  some  excellent 
bass-fishing  grounds  and  two  trout-streams.  Below  Hague  the  lake  con- 
tracts again  to  a  narrow  pass  between  the  precipitous  Anthonyh  Nose., 
on  the  E.,  and  Rogei-s^s  Slide,  on  the  W.  Roggrs's  Slide  is  a  rugged 
and  steep  promontory,  about  400  ft.  high,  down  which  the  Indians,  to 
their  great  bewilderment,  supposed  the  bold  ranger,  Major  Rogers,  to 
have  slid,  when  they  pursued  him  to  the  brink  of  the  cliff.  A  short 
distance  N.  of  it,  on  a  bold  promontory,  is  the  Rogers  Rock  Hotel,  one 
of  the  largest  and  best  on  the  lake.  Stages  run  from  the  hotel  to 
Addison  Junction,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  White  Mountain 


Route  ^6.]  LAKE   CHAMPLAEN".  213 

trains  (Route  44).  Beyond  Rogers's  Slide  the  lake  is  narrow,  the  shores 
low  and  uninteresting,  and  soon  the  voyage  terminates  at  Bakhvin  (33 
miles  from  Caldwell).  E.  of  the  landing  is  the  low-lying  Prisoners' 
Island,  where,  during  the  French  War,  those  taken  captive  by  the  Eng- 
lish were  confined ;  and  to  the  N.  is  Lord  Howe's  Point,  where  the  Eng- 
lish army  under  Lord  Howe,  consisting  of  16,000  men,  landed  previous 
to  the  attack  on  Ticonderoga. 

From  the  steamboat-landing  at  Baldwin,  a  branch  of  the  Delaware  &  Hud- 
son E.  E.  (see  Eoute  44)  runs  to  Fort  Ticonderoga,  on  Lake  Champlain,  5  miles 
distant.  At  Ticonderoga  village,  about  midway  between  the  two  lakes,  the 
stream  which  discharges  Lake  George  into  Lake  Champlain  tumbles  down  a 
rocky  descent  in  a  highly  picturesque  fall. 

Lake  Champlain. 

Lake  Champlain  lies  between  New  York  and  Vermont,  and  extends 
from  Whitehall  in  the  former  State  to  St.  John's  in  Canada!  It  is  126 
miles  long,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  40  rods  to  \2\  miles.  Its  out- 
line is  very  irregular,  the  shores  being  indented  by  numerous  bays,  and 
there  are  upward  of  50  islands  and  islets.  Its  depth  varies  from  54  to 
399  ft.,  and  vessels  of  800  or  1,000  tons  navigate  its  whole  extent. 
The  principal  rivers  entering  the  lake  are  Wood  Creek,  at  its  head ; 
the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  the  Ausable,  Saranac,  and  Chazy,  from  New 
York;  and  Otter,  Winooski,  Lamoille,  and  Missisquoi,  from  Vermont. 
The  outlet  of  the  lake  is  the  Sorel  or  Richelieu  River,  sometimes  called 
the  St.  John's,  which  empties  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and,  with  the 
Chambly  Canal,  affords  a  passage  for  vessels  to  the  ocean.  On  the 
south  it  communicates,  by  means  of  the  Champlain  Canal,  with  the 
Hudson  River  at  Troy.  Navigation  is  usually  closed  by  ice  about  the 
end  of  November,  and  opens  early  in  April.  The  waters  of  the  lake 
abound  with  bass,  pickerel,  muscalonge,  and  other  varieties  of  fish. 
This  lake,  filling  a  valley  inclosed  by  high  mountains,  is  celebrated  for 
its  magnificent  scenery,  which  embraces  the  Green  Mountains  of  Ver- 
mont on  the  E.  and  the  Adirondack  Mountains  of  New  York  on  the  W. 
Several  pleasant  villages  and  watering-places,  with  one  or  two  important 
cities,  are  situated  on  its  shores,  and  it  has  always  been  one  of  the 
most  attractive  features  of  the  Northern  Tour. 

A  writer  in  "Picturesque  America  "  institutes  the  following  comparison  be- 
tween the  sii«ter  lakes  :  "On  Lake  George  the  mountains  come  do\^^l  to  the 
edge  of  the  waters,  which  lie  embowered  in  an  amphitheatre  of  clrffs  and  hills  ; 
but  on  Lake  Champlain  there  are  moiintain-ranges  stretching  in  parallel  lines 
far  away  to  the  right  and  left,  leaving  between  them  and  the  lake  wide  areas 
of  charming  champaign  country,  smiling  with  fields  and  orchards  and  nestling 
farmhouses.  There  are  on  Lake  Champlain  noble  panoramas  ;  one  is  charmed 
with  the  shut-in  sylvan  beauties  of  Lake  George  ;  but  the  wide  expanses  of 
Lake  Champlain  are,  while  different  in  character,  as  essentially  beautiful.  It  is 
in  every  way  a  noble  lake.  Ontario  is  too  large — a  very  sea  ;  Lake  George  is 
perhaps  too  petty  and  confined  ;  but  Lake  Champlain  is  not  so  large  as  to  lose, 
for  the  voyager  upon  its  waters,  views  of  either  shore,  nor  so  small  as  to  con- 
tract and  iiniit  the  prospect."  The  name  of  the  lake  is  derived  from  that  of 
Samuel  de  Champlain,  the  French  Governor  of  Canada,  who  discovered  it  on 
the  4th  of  July,  1609. 

Whitehall,  at  the  head  or  S.  end  of  the  lake,  has  already  been  de- 
scribed in  Route  44.     The  Lake  Champlain  steamers  used  to  start  from 


214  LAKE    CHAMPLAm.  [Eoute  46. 

Whitehall,  but,  since  the  completion  of  the  railway  along  the  W,  shore 
(described  in  Route  44),  they  come  no  higher  than  Fort  Ticonderoga 
(24  miles  below).  The  narrowness  of  this  upper  portion  of  the  lake 
gives  it  much  more  the  appearance  of  a  river  than  of  a  lake.  For  the 
first  20  miles  the  average  width  does  not  exceed  ^  mile,  and  at  one 
point  it  is  not  more  than  40  rods  across.  Fort  Ticonderoga  is  the  point 
where  the  lake  widens  and  becomes  a  lake  in  fact  as  well  as  in  name. 

J^ort  Ticonderoga  {Fort  Ticonderoga  Hotel)  is  a  station  on  the  lake 
at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Defiance,  whence  a  branch  railroad  runs  in  5  miles 
to  Baldwin  on  Lake  George  (as  described  above),  and  whence  the 
Lake  Champlain  steamers  run  daily  in  summer  to  Plattsbui'g.  Ticon- 
deroga village  is  2  miles  from  the  landing,  and  the  ruins  of  the 
famous  old  *  Fort  Ticonderoga  are  on  a  high  hill  about  a  mile  to 
the  X.  The  view  from  the  crumbling  ramparts  is  extremely  fine ;  and 
a  still  finer  one  may  be  obtained  from  the  top  of  ^  Mt.  Defiance^ 
which  is  easily  ascended  from  the  village.  Mt.  Independence  lies  in 
Vermont  opposite  Ticonderoga,  about  a  mile  distant ;  remains  of  mili- 
tary works  are  still  visible  there.  Mt.  Hope^  an  elevation  about  a  mile 
W.  of  Ticonderoga,  was  occupied  by  Burgoyne  previous  to  the  recapture 
of  the  fort  in  lill. 

Fort  Ticonderoga  was  first  built  by  the  French  in  1756,  and  was  called  by 
them  "  Carillon."  We  have  already  mentioned  Abercrombie's  attempt  to  cap- 
ture it  in  1758,_and  Lord  Amherst's  more  successful  campaign  in  the  following 
year.  (See  ''  Lake  George.")  The  French,  being  unable  to  hold  the  fort,  dis- 
mantled and  abandoned  it  at  the  approach  of  the  English  forces  ;  and  soon 
afterward  Crown  Point  was  also  abandoned.  The  English  enlarged  and  greatly 
strengthened  the  two  fortifications,  expending  thereon  |10,000,000,  which  was 
at  that  time  an  immense  sum  for  saich  a  purpose.  The  fort  and  field-works  of 
Ticonderoga  embraced  an  area  of  several  miles.  After  the  cession  of  Canada 
to  the  English,  in  1763.  the  fort  vras  allowed  to  fall  into  partial  decay  ;  and  at 
the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  it  was  one  of  the  first  strongholds  captured  by 
the  Americans.  Colonel  Ethan  Allen,  of  Vermont,  at  the  head  of  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys,  surprised  the  unsuspecting  garrison,  penetrated  to  the  very 
bedside  of  the  commandant,  and,  waking  him,  demanded  the  surrender  of  the 
fort.  "  In  whose  name  and  to  wliom  ?  "  exclaimed  the  surprised  oflicer.  "  In 
the  name  of  the  great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress  !  "  thundered  the 
intrepid  Allen,  and  the  fort  was  immediately  surrendered.  Afterward,  how- 
ever, in  the  campaign  of  1777,  Burgoyne  easily  reduced  it  by  placing  a  battery 
of  artillery  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Defiance,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Lake 
George  outlet  and  750  feet  above  the  lake,  from  which  shot  could  be  thrown 
into  the  midst  of  the  American  works.  Aiter  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne,  the 
fort  was  dismantled,  and  from  that  time  was  suffered  to  fall  into  ruin  and  decay. 

Leaving  the  landing  at  Fort  Ticonderoga  the  steamer  runs  N.  to 
Shoreham^  on  the  Vermont  shore,  and  thence  crosses  the  lake  to  the 
village  of  Crown  Pointy  with  fine  mountain-views  all  the  way.  Six 
miles  below,  on  the  W.  side,  is  the  rugged  promontory  of  *  Crown 
Point,  which  was  the  site  of  Fort  St.  Frederic,  erected  by  the  French 
in  1731,  and  of  a  much  stronger  work  subsequently  erected  by  the 
English,  the  massive  ruins  of  which  are  still  plainly  visible.  The 
history  of  this  fort  is  strikingly  similar  to  that  of  Fort  Ticonderoga, 
the  fate  of  either  fortress  generally  determining  that  of  the  other.  In 
1759  the  English  took  possession  of  the  whole  region;  in  1775  Crown 
Point  was  taken  by  Ethan  Allen  at  the  time  he  captured  Ticonderoga ; 


Route  4^.]  LAKE   CHAMPLAIN.  215 

and  in  1777  Biirgoyne  retook  it  and  made  it  his  chief  depot  of  sup- 
plies in  the  advance  to  Saratoga.  A  lighthouse  now  stands  on  the 
peak  of  the  promontory,  but  otherwise  all  is  desolation.  Fine  views 
are  obtained  from  the  bastions  of  the  old  fort.  Beyond  Crown  Point, 
on  the  Vermont  shore,  is  Chimney  Point.  Between  them  the  lake  is 
very  narrow,  but  opens  out  above  into  the  broad  Bulwagga  Bay,  on 
the  W,  shore  of  which  is  the  pretty  village  of  Port  Henry  (20  miles 
from  Fort  Ticonderoga),  with  extensive  iron-works  and  ore-beds. 
Just  beyond  Port  Henry  the  scenery  is  exceedingly  fine.  To  the  E. 
the  Green  Mountains  with  their  lofty  peaks,  Mt.  Mansfield  and  Camel's 
Hump,  rise  against  the  distant  horizon ;  and  on  the  W.  "  the  Adiron- 
dack Hills  mingle  their  blue  tops  with  the  clouds."  Eleven  miles  be- 
low Port  Henry,  on  Northwest  Bay,  is  Westport  ( Westport  Inn).,  an 
entrance  to  the  Adirondack  region  by  stages  to  Elizabethtown.  Ten 
miles  below  Westport,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  small  village  of  Mssex, 
and  between  them  the  steamer  passes  *  Split  Rock,  where  a  portion 
of  the  mountain,  -J  acre  in  extent  and  30  ft.  high,  is  isolated  by  a  remark- 
able fissure  and  converted  into  an  island.  Leaving  Essex,  the  steamer 
passes  out  into  the  broadest  reach  of  the  lake,  bears  over  toward  the 
Vermont  shore,  passes  the  islets  called  the  Four  Brothers  and  Rock  Dun- 
der,  and  soon  reaches  the  beautiful  city  of  Burliug-ton  (described  in 
Rovite  29).  The  view  of  the  city  as  approached  from  the  lake  is  remark- 
ably pleasing.  Leaving  Burlington,  the  steamer  runs  across  the  lake  10 
miles  to  Port  Kent,  where  tourists  take  the  Keeseville,  A  usable  Chasm 
&  Lake  Champlain  R.  R.  in  visiting  the  famous  Ausable  Chasm. 
From  this  point,  whether  on  land  or  water,  the  views  in  every  direction 
are  striking  and  beautiful.  The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  town 
is  the  old  stone  mansion  of  Elkanah  Watson,  on  a  hill  near  the  lake. 
Port  Kent  is  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  Adirondack  region. 

Three  miles  beyond  Port  Kent,  the  Ausable  River  comes  in  on  the  W., 
and  5  miles  farther  the  steamer  enters  the  narrow  channel  between  the 
mainland  and  Valcour  Island,  which  was  the  scene  of  the  desperate  na- 
val battle  between  Arnold  and  Carleton,  in  1776.  The  large  Hotel 
Champlain  is  seen  on  the  bluff  overlooking  the  lake,  3  miles  soutb  of 
Plattsburg.  All  steamers  make  landing  at  the  hotel,  which  is  a  con- 
venient place  for  travelers  to  stop  over  at  in  making  the  Northern  tour. 
Beyond,  the  steamer  enters  Cumberland  Bay,  and  stops  at  Plattsburg, 
a  prosperous  and  beautiful  village  of  7,010  inhabitants  on  the  W.  shore 
of  the  lake,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  River,  168  miles  from  Albany. 
A  branch  railroad  runs  from  Plattsburg  to  Ausable  (20  miles),  and  this  is 
a  favorite  entrance  to  the  Adirondacks.  The  Chateaugay  R.  R.  runs  up 
the  Saranac  Valley  17  miles  to  Dannemora.,  the  site  of  Clinton  Prison; 
and  from  this  point  S.  W.  by  Mts.  Johnson  and  Lyon  to  the  trout-teem- 
ing Chazy  La%e  (4  miles  long  by  1-J  wide,  and  1,400  ft.  high),  near 
Bradley  Pond,  also  famous  for  its  abundance  of  trout,  and  to  Lyon  Mt. 
Station.  The  terminus  of  the  road  is  at  Saranac  Lake,  39  miles  farther 
into  the  wilderness.  Stages  run  from  Lyon  Mt,  Station  to  "Ralph's" 
and  "  Merriles's,"  on  Chateaugay  Lake.  This  station  is  the  site  of 
a  valuable  iron-mine,  and  is  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  great  Chateau- 


216  THE  ADTEONDACKS.  [Route  Jfi . 

gay  wilderness,  4  miles  from  the  upper  Chateaugay  Lake  (5  miles  long 
and  2  miles  wide),  whence  a  navigable  stream  leads  in  4  miles  to  the 
Lov)er  Lake^  2^  miles  long.  Loon  Lake  (54  miles)  lies  three  miles  from 
the  station  of  that  name,  and  Saranac  L.ake  (73  miles),  is  one  of  the 
most  delightful  resorts  of  the  region.  This  is  now  the  best  route  for 
the  northern  Adirondack  region. 

Cumherland  Bay,  on  which  Plattsburg  is  situated,  was  the  scene  of  the  vic- 
tory  of  Macdonough  and  Macomb  over  the  British  naval  and  land  forces,  under 
Commodore  Downie  and  Sir  George  Provost,  familiarly  known  as  the  Battle  of 
Plattsburg.  It  occurred  on  Sept.  11,  1814,  and  resulted  in  the  capture  of  the 
British  fleet  and  the  defeat  of  their  army  with  the  loss  of  2,500  men. 

The  Lake  Champlain  steamers  run  to  North  Hero.  Daily  steamers 
run  across  the  lake  in  25  miles  to  St.  Albans  (Route  27),  passing 
among  beautiful  islands. 

47.  The  Adirondacks. 

This  remarkable  tract,  which,  thirty  years  ago,  Avas  known  even  by 
name  only  to  a  few  hunters,  trappers,  and  lumbermen,  lies  in  the  north- 
ern part  of  New  York  State,  between  Lakes  George  and  Champlain  on 
the  E.,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  N.  W.  It  extends  on  the  N.  to 
Canada  and  on  the  S.  nearly  to  the  Mohawk  River.  The  mountains  rise 
from  an  elevated  plateau,  which  extends  over  this  portion  of  the  coun- 
try for  150  miles  in  latitude  and  100  in  longitude,  and  is  itself  nearly 
2,000  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Five  ranges  of  mountains,  running 
nearly  parallel,  traverse  this  plateau  from  southwest  to  northeast,  where 
they  terminate  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Champlain.  The  most  westerly, 
w^hich  bears  the  name  of  the  CKntou  Range,  though  it  is  also  sometimes 
called  the  Adirondack  Range,  begins  at  Little  Falls  and  terminates  at 
Trembleau  Point,  on  Lake  Champlain.  It  contains  the  highest  peaks  of 
the  entire  region,  the  loftiest  being  Mt.  Marcy  (or  Tahawus),  5,334  ft. 
high,  while  Mts.  Seward  (4,334),  Mclntvre  (5,112),  McMartin,  White- 
face  (4,871),  Dix  Peak  (4,916),  Colden  (4,772),  Santanoni  (4,644),  Snowy 
Mountain,  and  Pharaoh  are  among  other  of  the  prominent  peaks. 
Though  no  one  of  these  peaks  attains  to  the  height  of  the  loftiest 
summits  of  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  or  the  Black 
Mountains  of  North  Carolina,  their  general  elevation  surpasses  that  of 
any  range  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  entire  number  of  mount- 
ains in  the  Adirondack  region  is  supposed  to  exceed  500,  of  which 
only  a  few  have  received  separate  names.  They  are  all  wild  and  sav- 
age, and  covered  with  the  "  forest  primeval,"  except  the  stony  summits 
of  the  highest,  which  rise  above  all  vegetation  but  that  of  mosses, 
grasses,  and  dwarf  Alpine  plants. 

In  the  valleys  between  the  mountains  lie  many  beautiful  lakes  and 
ponds,  more  than  1,000  in  number.  The  general  level  of  these  lakes  is 
about  1,500  ft.  above  the  sea,  but  Lake  Perkins,  the  highest  of  them, 
has  nearly  three  times  that  elevation.  Some  of  them  are  20  miles  in 
length,  while  others  cover  only  a  few  acres.  The  largest  of  these  lakes 
are  Long  Lake,  the  Saranacs,  Tupper,  the  Fulton  Lakes,  and  Lakes  Col- 


Route  47.]  THE   ADIEOXDACKS.  217 

den,  Henderson,  Sanford,  Blue  Mountain,  Raquette,  Foi'ked,  Newcomb, 
and  Pleasant.  "  Steep,  densely  wooded  mountains,"  says  a  writer  in 
"Picturesque  America,"  descriljing  these  lakes,  "rise  from  their  mar- 
gins ;  beautiful  bays  indent  their  borders,  and  leafy  points  jut  out ; 
spring  brooks  trickle  in  ;  while  the  shallows  are  fringed  with  water-grasses 
and  flowering  plants,  and  covered  sometimes  with  acres  of  white  and 
yellow  water-lilies.  The  lakes  are  all  lovely  and  romantic  in  ever}i;hing 
except  their  names,  and  the  scenery  they  offer,  in  combination  with  the 
towering  mountains  and  the  old  and  savage  forest,  is  not  surpassed  on 
earth.  In  natural  features  it  greatly  resembles  Switzerland  and  the 
Scottish  Highlands,  as  they  must  have  been  before  those  regions  were 
settled  and  cultivated."  This  labyrinth  of  lakes  is  connected  by  a  very 
intricate  system  of  rivers,  rivulets,  and  brooks.  The  Saranac  and  the 
Ausable  run  in  nearly  parallel  lines  toward  the  N.  E.,  discharging  their 
waters  into  Lake  Champlain.  They  define  upon  the  map  the  position  of 
the  valleys,  which  have  the  same  general  arrangement  throughout  the 
whole  chain,  and  to  some  extent  the  position  of  the  ranges  of  mountains 
also.  In  the  other  direction,  the  Boreas,  the  Hudson,  and  the  Cedar  Riv- 
ers, which  all  unite  below  in  the  Hudson,  define  the  extension  of  the  val- 
leys of  the  Ausable  and  its  branches  on  the  southern  declivity  of  the 
great  plateau ;  and  farther  W.  the  chain  of  lakes,  including  Long  Lake, 
Raquette  Lake,  and  the  Fulton  Lakes,  lie  in  the  same  line  with  the  val- 
ley of  the  Saranac,  and  mark  its  extension  from  the  central  elevation 
of  the  plateau  toward  the  S.  W.  The  largest  and  most  beautiful  river 
of  the  Adirondack  region — its  great  highway  and  artery — is  the  Ra- 
quette, w^hich  rises  in  Raquette  Lake,  in  the  W.  part  of  Hamilton 
County,  and,  after  a  devious  course  of  120  miles,  flows  into  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

The  mountains  of  the  entire  region  are  covered  with  forests,  groves 
of  birch,  beech,  maple,  and  ash,  succeeding  to  the  evergreens,  among 
which  the  most  common  are  the  hemlock,  spruce,  fir,  and  cedar,  with 
the  valuable  white  pine  intermixed  with  and  overtopping  the  rest.  In 
the  lower  lands  along  the  streams  a  denser  growth  of  the  evergreens  is 
more  common,  forming  almost  impenetrable  swamps  of  cedar,  tama- 
rack or  hackmatack,  and  hemlock.  In  these  woods  and  mountain 
solitudes  are  found  the  panther,  the  great  black  bear,  the  wolf,  the 
wild-cat,  the  lynx,  and  the  wolverine.  The  moose  is  said  to  be  ex- 
tinct, but  deer  are  abundant ;  and  so,  also,  are  the  fisher,  sable,  otter, 
mink,  muskrat,  fox,  badger,  woodchuck,  rabbit,  and  several  varieties 
of  the  squirrel.  There  are  scarcely  any  snakes,  and  none  large  or 
venomous.  Among  the  birds  are  the  grand  black  war-eagle,  several 
kinds  of  hawk,  owl,  loon,  and  duck;  the  crane,  heron,  raven,  crow 
partridge,  and  numerous  smaller  birds.  The  salmon-trout  and  the 
speckled  trout  swarm  in  the  lakes,  and  the  latter  also  in  the  brooks 
and  rivers.  The  lake-trout  are  caught  sometimes  of  20  pounds  and 
more  in  weight ;  but  the  speckled  trout  are  seldom  large. 

There  are  several  routes  by  which  the  Adirondack  region  may  be 
reached.  No.  I  is  via  the  Adirondack  R.  R.  from  Saratoga  to  North 
Creek.     This  takes  the  traveler  from  S.  W.  to  N.  E.,  into  the  southern 


218  THE    ADIEOKDAOKS.  [Boilte  Jf7 , 

Adirondacks.  Xo.  II  is  via  Delaware  &  Hudson  R,  R.  from  Albany  to 
Plattsburg,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Chateaugay  R.  R.  to  Sar- 
anac,  or  a  branch  to  Ausable.  No.  Ill  is  via  Fort  Kent,  reached  b}' 
steamer  from  Burlington  (see  Route  29);  and  No.  IV  is  via  Westport 
on  Lake  Champlain,  reached  by  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R,  to  Fort 
Ticonderoga,  and  thence  by  steamer.  From  Boston  the  Vermont  Cen- 
tral R.  R.  will  take  the  traveler  to  Burlington,  whence  steamers  run  to 
Plattsburg  and  Westport. 

During  the  summer  of  1892  the  Adirondack  k  St.  Lawrence  R.  R. 
was  opened  to  the  public.  It  extends  over  a  distance  of  212  miles, 
beginning  at  Herkimer^  where  it  makes  connection  with  the  New  York 
Central  &  Hudson  River  and  West  Shore  R.  Rs.,  then  N.  to  Trenton 
Falls  (24  miles),  with  stage  connection  for  Moore's  Hotel.  Remsen 
is  a  junction  with  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  and  just 
beyond  the  Black  River  is  crossed.  Four  miles  beyond  is  Honnedaga^ 
the  station  for  the  Adirondack  League  Club,  whose  club-house  is  on 
Honnedaga  Lake,  19  miles  distant.  Another  house  belonging  to  this 
club  is  situated  on  Moose  Lake,  5  miles  from  Old  Forge.  At  Ful- 
ton Chain^  58  miles  from  Herkimer,  there  is  stage  connection  for  Old 
Forge  House  and  steamboat  landing,  a  mile  and  three-quarters  distant, 
where  water  communication  may  be  had  by  way  of  steamer  to  the  head 
of  Fourth  Lake,  and  by  small  boat  to  the  head  of  Fifth  Lake ;  and  a 
short  and  easy  route  is  thus  opened  to  the  Raquette,  Forked,  Blue 
Mountain,  and  Long  Lakes  by  the  Fulton  Chain.  Parties  taking  small 
boats  at  the  head  of  Fourth  Lake  may  go  through  to  Raquette  Lake  by 
making  three  short  portages,  and  from  Raquette  the  other  lakes  may 
be  easily  reached  by  steamer  or  small  boats.  Lake  Lila  is  the  station 
for  Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb's  private  preserve,  bearing  the  Indian  name 
of  Ne-ha-sa-ne  Park.  Bog  Lake^  Horseshoe  Pond^  Childwold^  with  stage 
for  Childwold  Park  House  and  Cottages,  are  passed,  and  Tapper  Lake 
Jimction  (113  miles)  is  reached  at  the  junction  of  the  Northern  Adi- 
rondack R.  R.,  beyond  which  is  Saranac  Inn^  Paul  Smitli's^  Rainbow 
Lake,  and  Loon  Lake.  Here  the  hotel  is  on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and 
from,  its  observatory  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  Green  Mountains  of 
Vermont,  and  of  many  of  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Adirondacks  to  the 
south,  may  be  had.  The  Chateaugay  R.  R.  connects  at  Loon  Lake, 
whence  the  route  is  N.  to  Malone,  where  it  connects  with  the  Vermont 
Central  R.  R.  for  Montreal  by  way  of  Valleyfield  and  Coteau  Junction. 
Through  trains,  with  full  sleeping,  drawing-room,  and  dining  car  ser- 
vice, run  daily  from  New  York  to  Montreal  over  this  line.  W^ith  the 
railroads  penetrating  the  Adirondacks  in  all  directions,  the  older  meth- 
ods of  travel  by  stage-coaches  will  gradually  disappear ;  but  as  there 
are  still  many  who  prefer  this  means  of  visiting  this  great  park,  we 
retain  the  description  of  the  older  routes. 

Outfit  and  Cruid.es. — Nearly  aU  traveling  in  the  Adirondacks  is  done  by 
means  of  boats  of  small  size  and  slight  build,  rowed  by  a  single  guide,  and 
made  so  light  that  the  craft  can  be  lifted  from  the  water  and  carried  on  the 
guide's  shoulders  from  lake  to  lake  or  from  stream  to  stream.  Competent 
guides,  steady  and  intelligent  men,  can  be  hired  at  all  the  hotels  for  $2  to  $.3  a 
day,  who  wiU  provide  boats,  tents,  and  everything  requisite  for  a  trip.    Each 


Route  47.]  THE    ADIROXDACKS.  219 

traveler  should  have  a  guide  and  a  boat  to  himself,  and  the  cost  of  then-  main- 
tenance in  the  woods  is  not  more  than  ^1  a  week  for  each  man  of  the  party. 
The  fare  is  chiefly  trout  and  venison,  of  which  an  abundance  is  easily  procured. 
A  good-sized  valise  will  hold  all  the  clothes  that  one  person  needs  for  a 
two  months"  trip  in  the  woods,  besides  those  he  wears.  The  following  list 
comprises  the  essentials  of  an  outfit  for  a  man:  A  complete  undersuit  of 
woolen  or  flannel,  with  a  '•change"  ;  stout  trousers,  vest,  and  coat  ;  a  felt 
hat :  two  pairs  of  stockings  :  a  pair  of  common  winter-boots  and  camp- 
shoes  :  a  rubber  blanket  or  coat  ;  a  pair  of  pliable  buckskin  gloves,  with  cha- 
mois-skin gauntlets  tied  or  buttoned  at  the  elbow  :  a  hunting-knife,  belt,  and  a 
pint  tin  cup  :  a  pair  of  warm  blankets,  towel,  soap,  etc.  A  lady's  outfit  should 
comprise  :  A  short  walking-dress,  with  Turkish  drawers  fastened  with  a  band 
tightly  at  the  ankle  :  a  flannel  change  throughout  :  thick  balmorai  boots,  with 
r.ibbers  :  a  pair  of  camp-shoes,  warm  and  loose-fitting  :  a  soft  felt  hat,  rather 
broad  in  the  brim  ;  a  water-proof  or  rubber  coat  and  cap  ;  a  pair  of  buckskin 
gloves  with  armlets  of  chamois-skin  or  thick  di'illing.  sewed  on  at  the  wrist  of 
the  glove  and  buttoned  near  the  elbow  so  tightly  as  to  prevent  the  entrance  of 
flies  ;  and  a  net  of  fine  Swiss  mull  as  a  protection  against  mosquitoes,  gnats,  etc. 

I.    Saratoga   Springs  to   Schroon,   Blue    Mountain,   Long, 
Raquette,  and  Fulton  Lakes,  and  Indian  Pass. 

The  Adirondack  R.  R.  runs  northward  from  Saratoga  Springs  to 
Xorth  Creek  (57  miles;  fare,  $2.50).  It  is  a  most  picturesque  route, 
running  straight  up  the  lovely  Kayaderosseras  Valley,  from  Saratoga. 
It  crosses  the  Saeandaga  River  by  a  bridge  450  ft.  long  and  96  ft.  high, 
and  passes  near  Corinth  Falls,  where  the  Hudson,  with  a  width  of  only 
50  ft.,  makes  a  leap  of  60  ft.  over  the  precipice.  At  Hadley  (22  miles) 
passengers  leave  the  train  for  Lake  Luzerne,  which,  with  the  village 
of  the  same  name,  lies  just  across  the  Hudson.  Lake  Luzerne  is  a  small 
but  exceedingly  picturesque  body  of  water,  and  is  a  popular  summer 
resort,  and  a  favorite  excursion  from  Saratoga  Springs.  There  are  sev- 
eral hotels  in  the  village,  of  which  the  Wayside  House  and  RockivelVs  are 
the  best ;  and  the  fishing,  hunting,  and  boating  are  excellent.  Fi'om 
Pota^^h  Hill,  near  the  lake,  an  admirable  view  is  obtained,  and  Lake 
George  is  only  10  miles  distant  (reached  by  a  good  road).  From  Thur- 
man  (35  miles  from  Saratoga)  stages  run  in  9  miles  to  Caldwell,  at  the 
head  of  Lake  Geoi^ge,  by  way  of  Warrensburg  (see  Route  46) ;  and 
from  Riverside  (49  miles)  stages  run  in  6  miles  to  Pottersville,  which 
is  only  a  mile  from  Schroon  Lake  (fare,  $1). 

*  Schroon  Lake  is  10  miles  long  and  about  2|-  wide,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  lovely  scenery.  A  boat  plies  on  its  waters,  connecting  the 
landing  at  Pottersville  w^ith  Schroon  Lake  Village,  the  principal  sum- 
mer resort  in  this  vicinity.  The  village  lies  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake, 
and,  besides  numerous  boarding-houses,  has  several  summer-hotels  (the 
Lake,  Leland,  Ondawa,  and  Taylor).  The  boating  and  fishing  on  the 
lake  are  unsurpassed,  and  excursions  may  be  made  (with  guides)  to  the 
summit  of  Mt.  Pharaoh,  to  the  top  of  Ml.  Severn,  and  to  the  beau- 
tiful Paradox  Lake  {Pyramid  Lake  House),  which  lies  4  miles  above 
the  X.  end  of  Schroon  Lake.  At  the  foot  of  Mt.  Pharaoh  is  Pharaoh 
Lake,  famous  for  the  abundance  of  its  trout. 

Daily  stages  run  from  N.  Creek  via  Indian  Lake  to  *Blue  Mount- 
ain Lake,  one  of  the  loveliest  of  the  Adirondack  chain,  3  miles  in 
diameter,  irregular  in  shape,  and  2,000  ft.  above  the  sea.     It  is  sur- 


220  THE  ADIEONDACKS.  [Route  1^1. 

rounded  by  dense  forests,  and  in  the  lake  and  adjacent  ponds  are 
abundance  of  trout.  The  hotels  are  the  elegant  Prospect  House^  the 
Blue  Mt.  Lake  House^  and  the  Blue  Mt.  House.  Blue  Mountain 
(3,824  ft.  high)  overlooks  the  lake,  and  is  ascended  by  a  well-detined 
trail  from  the  Long  Lake  road.  The  view  from  its  summit  is  extremely 
tine. 

Stages  also  run  from  N.  Creek  to  Minerva,  Tahawus,  Newcomb,  and 
Long  Lake  Villages.  Tahawus  (Lower  Iron  Works)  is  a  decayed  ham- 
let in  the  very  heart  of  the  Adirondack  mountain-system.  At  this 
point  the  road  to  Long  Lake  turns  directly  W.  to  the  village  of  New- 
comb  [Half-ioay  Hotel.,  Wayside  House).,  which  is  a  good  point  at 
which  to  procure  guides,  boats,  and  camp  equipage.  Near  Newcomb 
are  Lakes  Harris.,  Delia.,  and  Catlin.,  and  12  miles  W.  is  Long  Lake 
Village  on  Long  Lake.  Liong  Lake  is  the  longest,  though  not  the 
widest,  of  the  Adirondack  lakes,  and  for  13  miles  almost  resembles  a 
river.  The  scenery  on  the  lake  itself  is  varied  and  exquisite,  and  from 
it  a  noble  view  can  be  had  of  Mt.  Seivard.,  4,334  ft.  high.  On  the  E. 
of  the  lake  (34^  miles  from  the  head)  is  Long  Lake  Village  {Austin., 
Long  Lake  Hotel.,  and  the  Sagamore.,  about  ^  a  mile  above),  the  center 
of  supplies  and  the  starting-point  for  routes  in  all  directions.  Many 
guides  live  here,  and  the  vicinity  is  much  frequented  by  sportsmen. 
From  Long  Lake  a  series  of  ponds  and  carries  leads  to  Little  Tupper 
Lake,  a  lovely  and  sequestered  sheet  of  water,  6  miles  long,  dotted 
with  islands  and  girt  by  rugged,  precipitous  shores.  This  can  also  bo 
reached  by  the  Adirondack  &  St.  Lawrence  R.  R.  It  affords  excellent 
sport.  On  Sand  Point.,  near  the  foot  of  the  lake,  is  the  Pi7ie  Grove 
House.  Blue  Mountain  Lake  is  8  miles  S.  from  Long  Lake  Village  via 
South  Pond.  Grampus  Lake  is  reached  from  Long  Lake  by  ascending 
the  Big  Brook,  and  the  Handsome  and  Mohegan  Ponds  may  be  visited 
from  Grampus.  At  the  S.  W.  end  of  Long  Lake  is  OwVs  Head  Moxmt- 
ain  (2,825  ft.  high).     At  its  base  lie  Clear  Pond  and  Owl's  Head  Pond. 

From  the  S.  end  of  Long  Lake  a  route  of  10  miles  with  two  carries 
leads  through  Forked  Lake  [Forked  Lake  House).,  a  sheet  of  water  5  miles 
long,  to  *  Raquette  Lake,  the  last  of  the  chain  of  lakes  we  have  been 
following.  Shortly  after  leaving  Long  Lake  the  picturesque  Buttermilk 
Falls  are  passed,  and  the  entire  journey  is  through  the  midst  of  fine  for- 
est scenery  with  occasional  mountain-views.  Raquette  Lake  is  12  miles 
long  and  5  miles  wide  at  the  widest  part,  and  its  surface  is  sprinkled 
with  the  most  beautiful  little  islets.  Dense  forests  close  in  on  every 
side,  and  as  it  is  comparatively  unfrequented  it  makes  rich  returns  to  the 
sportsman.  A  short  distance  from  its  N.  end  are  the  ruins  of  Cary''s 
Hotel.,  which  is  connected  by  the  Carthage  road  with  Long  Lake  Village 
(14  miles).  Hathornh  Forest  Cottages  are  at  South  Beach,  and  BlancJi- 
ard''s  Wigumms  is  at  the  head  of  Marryatt's  Bay.  Bennetts.,  nearer  the 
Blue  Mountain,  is  small,  but  well  suited  for  invalids.  There  is  a  multitude 
of  lakelets  and  ponds  in  the  vicinity  of  Raquette  Lake,  but  only  two  or 
three  require  special  mention.  Shalloio  Lake  (reached  by  an  inlet  from 
Mariyatt's  Bay)  and  Queer  Lake  (2  miles  S.)  are  noted  for  trout.  BeacWs 
Lake.,  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  3^  miles  long,  lies  4  miles  N.  W.,  and  is 


Route  47.]  THE    ADIEOIvrDACKS.  221 

reached  by  a  long  and  tedious  "  carry."  A  series  of  ponds  and  carries 
leads  from  Beach's  Lake  to  Little  Tupper  Lake  (already  described),  but 
the  route  is  long  (15  miles)  and  difficult.  Salmon  Lake  is  N.  of  Beach's 
Lake,  and  may  be  reached  by  a  carry  of  2  miles.  A  pull  of  4  miles  up 
the  Brown  Tract  Inlet,  from  the  S.  W.  point  of  Kaquette  Lake,  and  a 
carry  of  14-  mile  lead  to  the  upper  or  eighth  of  the  c£ain  of  Fulton 
Lakes,  which  extend  southwestward  into  the  "  John  Brown  Tract " 
(see  p.  1'73).  From  the  Eighth  Lake  a  short  portage  leads  to  the  Sev- 
enth^ from  which  the  Sixth  can  be  reached  by  boat.  There  is  a  portage 
between  Sixth  and  Fifth,  and  also  one  between  Fifth  and  Fourth. 
*  Fourth  Lake  is  the  largest  of  the  chain ;  it  is  studded  with  islands 
and  surrounded  by  rugged  and  precipitous  shores.  Hemlock  grows 
down  to  the  edge  of  the  water ;  and  in  the  undisturbed  repose  of  the 
waters  the  fringes  of  foliage  are  clearly  reflected.  In  the  center  of  the 
lake  is  a  beautiful  rocky  islet  known  as  Elba.  There  is  a  passage  for 
boats  into  Third  Lake,  close  by  which  Bald  Mountain  frowns  down ; 
and  the  passage  continues  open  to  Second  Lake.  Second  is  hardly  dis- 
tinguishable from  First  Lake,  there  being  a  mere  sand-bar  between 
them.  This  section  is  seldom  visited  save  by  hunters  and  fishermen,  to 
whom  it  yields  rich  returns.  It  is  now  more  easily  reached  from  Ful- 
ton Chain  on  the  Adirondack  &  St.  Lawrence  R.  R. 

The  route  from  the  Raquette  to  the  Saranac  region  is  from  the  N. 
end  of  Long  Lake,  over  Johnson's  Carry  to  Mother  Johnson''s  Raquette 
Falls  House.  A  few  rods  from  the  house  are  the  Fcdls,  around  which 
boats  are  hauled  {\\  mile,  $1.50  a  load).  Seven  miles  farther  (13  from 
Long  Lake)  the  route  leaves  the  river  by  Stony  Creek  to  Stony  Creek 
Pond,  then  by  Indian  Carry  (1  mile,  75  cents  a  load)  to  Corey'' s,  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  rail- 
road connection  is  readily  had  with  either  the  Adirondack  &  St.  Law- 
rence or  the  Chateaugay  R.  Rs. 

From  Tahawus,  a  picturesque  road  leads  1 1  miles  N.  to  the  hamlet 
of  Adirondack  (or  Upper  Iron  Works),  once  a  thriving  mining  town, 
but  now  in  ruins,  save  the  Club  House,  used  as  the  headquarters  of  a 
hunting  and  fishing  club.  It  lies  in  the  midst  of  singularly  wild  and 
impressive  scenery.  A  mile  S.  of  the  village  is  Lake  Sanford,  skirted 
bv  the  road  from  Tahawus,  and  5  miles  long.  On  the  N.  are  Henderson 
Mountain  and  Lake,  and  beyond  these  (2i  miles  from  the  village)  are 
the  lovely  Preston  Ponds,  which  afford  as  good  trout-fishing  as  is  to  be 
had  in  the  entire  region.  Mount  Seward,  one  of  the  loftiest  of  the 
group  (4,334  ft.),  lies  8  miles  to  the  N.  W.,  and  Mount  Marcy  on  the 
N.  E.,  the  monarch  of  the  region  (Sub-Route  III),  may  be  ascended  by 
an  easy  path  1 2  miles  long.  The  trail  to  the  summit  leads  past  the  exqui- 
site Lake  Colden,  and  near  Avalanche  Lake,  which  is  one  of  the 
highest  of  the  Adirondack  lakes  (2,846  ft.  above  the  sea).  The  greatest 
attraction,  however,  and  perhaps  the  finest  sight  in  the  Adirondacks,  is 
the  *  Indian  Pass,  a  stupendous  gorge  between  Mts.  Wallface  and 
Mclntyre,  in  the  wildest  part  of  that  lonely  and  savage  i-eTion  which  the 
Indians  rightly  named  "  Conyacraga,"  or  the  Dismal  \»ixJe.ness,  t-.e 
larger  part  of  which  has  never  yet  been  visited  by  white  men,  and 


222  THE  ADIRO^DACKS.  [Route  47. 

which  still  remains  the  secure  haunt  of  the  wolf,  the  panther,  the  great 
black  bear,  and  the  rarer  lynx  and  wolverine.  The  springs  which  form 
the  source  of  the  Hudson  are  found  at  an  elevation  of  about  2,900 
feet  above  the  sea,  in  rocky  recesses,  in  whose  cold  depths  the  ice  of 
winter  never  melts  entirely  away.  Here,  in  the  center  of  the  pass,  rise 
also  the  springs  of  the  Ausable,  which  flows  into  Lake  Champlain,  and 
whose  waters  reach  the  Atlantic  through  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
several  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson ;  and  yet,  so  close 
are  the  springs  of  the  two  rivers,  that  "the  wild-cat,  lapping  the  waters 
of  the  one,  may  bathe  his  hind-feet  in  the  other ;  and  a  rock  rolling 
from  the  precipice  above  could  scatter  spray  from  both  in  the  same 
concussion."  In  freshets,  the  waters  of  the  two  springs  actually  mingle. 
The  main  sti-eam  of  the  Ausable,  however,  flows  from  the  N.  E.  portal 
of  the  pass ;  and  the  main  stream  of  the  Hudson  from  the  S.  W.  The 
latter  is  locally  known  as  the  Adirondack  River,  and  after  leaving  the 
pass  flows  into  Lakes  Henderson  and  Sanford.  The  Indian  Pass  is 
reached  from  Adirondack  by  an  easy  and  well-marked  trail ;  and  after 
traversing  it  the  visitor  may  descend  in  10  miles  by  a  path  blazed  on  the 
trees  to  N.  Elba.  A  long  and  arduous  trail  leads  from  Adirondack  to 
Keene  Valley  by  way  of  the  Ausable  Ponds. 

^  II.    From  Plattsburg  to  Saranac,  Placid,  and  Tupper 
Lakes. 

From  Plattsburg  (reached  by  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R.)  the  Chateau- 
gay  R.  R.  runs  directly  to  Saranac  Lake,  passing  Loon  Lake  (where 
stages  for  Loon  Lake  House  meet  all  trains),  Blooming  dale  (66  miles 
from  Plattsburg),  whence  stages  run  to  Crystal  Spring^  Big  Clear 
Pond.,  and  to  Paul  Smith's  (5  miles).  From  Saranac  Lake  (73  miles 
from  Plattsburg)  stages  run  (9  miles)  to  Lake  Placid. 

From  Saranac  Lake  station  of  the  Chateaugay  R.  R.  a  stage-iide  of 
1  mile  takes  the  visitor  to  the  Hotel  Ampersand  or  to  Saranac  Lake 
House,  a  comfortable  hotel  on  the  Lower  Saranac  Lake,  which  is 
7  miles  long  and  2  miles  wide,  studded  with  islands,  52  in  number. 
This  is  one  of  the  best  places  to  procure  guides,  boats,  and  camp- 
equipage.  The  Saranac  River  connects  the  lake  with  Round  Lake.,  3 
miles  W.  Round  Lake  is  about  2  miles  in  diameter,  is  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  dotted  with  islets,  and  is  famous  for  its  storms.  It  is  in 
turn  connected  with  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake  by  another  stretch  of  the 
Saranac  River.  A  small  steamer  plies  on  the  Lower  Saranac,  running 
from  Saranac  Lake  House  to  the  rapids  below  Round  Lake,  whence 
row-boats  carry  the  passengers  over  to  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake. 
A  fine  view  can  be  obtained  of  Round  Lake  and  the  surrounding 
mountains,  and  a  guide  will  conduct  the  traveler  to  the  summit  of 
Am/jersand  Mountain,  whence  the  view  is  superb.  At  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  on  the  S.,  lies  the  sequestered  Ampersand  Pond,  where 
Agassiz,  Lowell,  and  Holmes  used,  a  few  years  ago,  to  pitch  their 
"  Philosophers'  Camp."  A  short  "  carry "  of  -J  mile  conducts  from 
Round  Lake  to  the  *  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  the  largest  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  the  Adirondack  lakes.    It  is  8  miles  long  and  from 


Route  47.]  THE   ADIROIST)ACKS.  223 

1  to  3  miles  wide,  and  its  surface  is  studded  with  little  islands.  At  its 
head  is  Saranac  Iniij  reached  by  stage  (14  miles)  from  Saranac  Lake 
station,  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  good  hunting-ground  and  excellent  fish- 
ing-waters. The  Ampersand  Hotel  on  Saranac  Lake  has  been  built 
as  a  winter  resort,  and  the  Adirondack  Cottages  (1  mile  from  the  lake) 
are  specially  designed  for  patients  suffering  from  pulmonary  troubles.  A 
small  steamer  plies  on  the  lake,  making  the  circuit  from  the  Saranac  Inn 
twice  daily,  and  touching  at  the  Sweeney  Carry,  and  Corey's.  The 
"  Route  of  the  Xine  Carries "  conducts  from  the  Upper  Saranac  to 
St.  Regis  Lake,  on  which  is  situated  *Paul  Smith's,  the  best  known 
hotel  in  the  Wilderness.  It  is  a  very  popular  resort  as  an  outfitting- 
point,  for  which  it  offers  many  advantages.  It  has  a  telegraph-office, 
and  is  connected  by  stage-road  with  Bloomingdale,  on  the  Chateaugay 
E.  R. ;  with  Rogers,  at  the  terminus  of  the  Ausable  branch  of  the  Dela- 
ware &  Hudson  R.  R.  ;  Saranac  Lake  station  (14  miles);  with  Paul 
Smith's  station,  on  the  Northern  Adirondack  R.  R. ;  and  with  Paul 
Smith's  station,  on  the  Adirondack  k  St.  Lawrence  R.  R.  (4  miles). 
St.  Regis  Lake  is  one  of  the  most  picturescjue  of  the  gToup,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  numerous  small  ponds.  A  short  distance  N.  E.  lies  the 
Rainboio  Lake,  a  favorite  resort  with  fishermen. 

A  second  route  is  by  a  branch  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R., 
which  runs  from  Plattsburg  S.  W.  to  Rogers,  on  the  Ausable  River  (20 
miles,  fare  Si)-  The  ride  to  Saranac  Lake  (37  miles),  if  this  old  route 
is  taken,  is  amid  picturesciue  scenery,  Whiteface  Mountain,  the 
great  outpost  of  the  Adirondacks,  being  in  sight  for  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  way.  At  the  village  of  Ausable  Rorks,  3  miles  from  the  rail- 
way terminus,  the  traveler  can  (by  hiring  a  special  conveyance)  turn  off 
into  a  road  which  leads  through  the  famous  -'Wilmington  Pass,  and 
can  regain  the  main  road  about  2  miles  before  it  reaches  Saranac  Lake. 
The  mountain  is  easily  ascended  from  Wilmington,  where  guides  may 
always  be  had.  A  carriage-road  leads  nearly  to  the  summit,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  ascent  is  on  horseback.  There  is  a  house  near  the 
summit,  where  a  comfortable  night's  lodging  may  be  obtained.  The 
*view  from  Whiteface  (4,8Y1)  ft.  high,  is  indescribably  gi"and,  only 
surpassed  by  that  from  the  top  of  Mount  Marcy.  The  "  Pass  "  is  6  miles 
beyond  Wilmington.  It  is  a  profound  chasm  cloven  boldly  through  the 
flank  of  Whiteface,  scarcely  wide  enough  for  the  road  and  the  river, 
and  2  miles  long.  Through  the  Pass  flows  the  Ausable  River,  with  a 
succession  of  rapids  and  cataracts,  and  on  either  side  rises  a  majestic 
mountain- wall,  so  high  that  the  crowded  row  of  pines  alongits  broken  and 
wavy  crest  is  diminished  to  a  fringe.  At  the  foot  of  Whiteface,  on  the 
S.  W.  side  (reached  by  a  road  which  branches  off  to  the  right  just  beyond 
the  Xotch),  lies  *  Lake  Placid  (reached  as  above  by  stage  from  Sara- 
nac Lake  station,  and  also  by  daily  coach  from  Westport,  see  p.  215),  one 
of  the  loveliest  lakes  of  the  Wilderness,  and  the  central  point  of  interest, 
as  well  as  the  geographical  center  of  the  Adirondack  Mountain  region,  5 
miles  long  and  about  2  miles  wide.  There  are  several  large  hotels  here 
(Castello  Rustico,  Lake  Placid  House,  Stevens  House,  and  Whiteface  Inn), 
and  it  is  a  favorite  summer  resort,     One  of  the  best  views  of  Whiteface 


224  THE   ADIEONDACKS.  [Route  Jfl . 

is  obtained  fi-om  Lake  Placid,  and  near  its  southern  shore  is  one  of  the 
curiosities  of  the  region,  Paradox  Pond^  whose  outlet  in  high  water  flows 
back  on  the  lake.  Also  near  by  is  Mirror  Lake  {Mirror  Lake  House). 
Two  miles  S.,  on  the  road  to  Elizabethtown,  is  the  hamlet  of  North  Elba 
{Mountain  View  House),  close  to  which  (on  the  S.)  are  the  house  and 
farm  "  of  John  Brown,  of  Ossawattomie,"  who  lies  buried  close  by. 
The  best  route  to  Lake  Placid  is  as  above,  by  Chateaugay  R.  R.  to  Sar- 
anac,  and  thence  by  stage. 

The  Chateaugay  R.  R.,  after  leaving  Plattsburg,  runs  W.  to  Chazy 
Lake  (28  miles),  whence  it  connects  with  a  steamer  running  to  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  the  lake,  landing  the  tourist  at  the  Chazy  Lake  House. 
Six  miles  beyond  is  Lyon  Mountain  Stages  may  be  taken  here  for 
Ralph's  and  Merrill's,  and  steamer  for  Indian  Point  House.  Loon  Lake 
(54  miles)  is  the  station  for  the  Loon  Lake  House,  which  is  reached  by 
stage ;  also  reached  by  the  Adirondack  &  St.  Lawrence  R.  R.  Rottnd 
Pond  (58  miles)  is  a  convenient  point  for  visiting  the  famous  fishing- 
grounds  at  Jones,  Round,  and  Mud  Ponds  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 
Three  miles  farther  along  the  route  is  Rainhoio,  where  stages  meet  the 
train  for  the  fish-abounding  Rainbow  Lake  {Rainbow  House),  3  miles 
long  and  about  1  mile  wide.  Bloorningdale  (66  miles)  is  the  next  im- 
portant station,  and  stages  for  Paid  Smithes  Hotel,  Crystal  Spring 
House,  and  Big  Clear  Pond  House  are  taken  here.  The  terminus  of 
the  road  is  Saranac  I^ake  (see  p.  222). 

The  "  Round  Trip  ■"  from  Paul  Smith's  comprises  a  circuit  of  about  45  miles, 
inckicling  the  St.  Regis  and  Saranac  Lakes,  and  the  principal  adjacent  points 
of  interest,  and  afEordiug  every  variety  of  locomotion  known  to  the  Wilderness, 
without  enough  of  any  to  become  wearisome.  The  route  is  as  follows  :  By 
boat  across  Lower  St.  Regis  Lake,  Spitfire  Pond,  and  LTpper  St.  Regis  Lake, 
with  connecting  streams  (4  miles)  ;  on  horse  or  foot  over  the  St.  Germain 
Carry,  li  mile  (horse  $1.50)  ;  boat  across  Big  Clear  Pond  (2  miles)  ;  carriage  to 
Saranac  Inn  at  head  of  LTpper  Saranac  Lake,  3  miles  (boat  $1.50,  passengers 
50c.  each)  ;  on  small  steamer  through  Saranac  Lake.  8  miles  (fare  $1)  ;  short 
carry  to  Round  Lake  (50c.)  and  thence  by  river  and  Round  Lake  (3  miles) ;  by 
steamer  on  Saranac  River  and  Lower  Saranac  Lake  to  Saranac  Lake  (9  miles)  ; 
carriage  from  Saranac  Lake  to  Paul  Smith's  (14  miles).  From  Saranac  Lake 
the  "  Round  Trip  "  may  be  made  in  reverse  order. 

At  Saranac  Lake  three  great  Wilderness  routes  diverge :  one  N.  to 
Paul  Smith's,  already  described  in  the  "  Round  Trip  " ;  another  W.,  to 
the  Tupper  Lake  region;  and  a  thii-d  S.,  to  Long  and  Raquette  Lakes. 
The  route  to  the  Tupper  Lakes  is  from  Saranac  Lake  or  the  Prospect 
House  to  the  S.  W.  end  of  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  whence  Sweeney''s 
Carry  leads  across  in  3  miles  to  the  Raquette  River  (boats  hauled 
across  for  $L50).  From  the  W.  terminus  of  the  carry  a  small  steamer 
runs  down  the  river  to  McClure's  on  *  Tupper  Lake,  which  is  so 
named  from  the  guide  or  hunter  who  first  discovered  it.  This  may  now 
be  also  reached  by  the  Northern  Adirondack  or  the  Adirondack  &  St. 
Lawrence  R.  Rs.  from  Moira.  It  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water,  ^  miles 
long  by  1  to  3  miles  wide,  surrounded  by  primeval  forests,  and  contain- 
ing many  picturesque  rocky  islands,  covered  with  evergreens.  At  its 
head  the  wild  and  little-explored  Bog  River  flows  into  the  lake  over 
a  romantic  cascade,  which  forms  one  of  the  great  attractions  of  the 


Route  47.]  THE    ADIRONDACKS.  225 

Adirondacks,  being  a  famous  place  for  trout.  A  steamer  leaves  Tup- 
per  Lake  daily  for  Sweeney's  Carry,  connecting  with  the  steamboat  on 
Saranac  Lake.  From  the  X.  end  of  ihe  lake  the  Raquette  River  may 
be  descended  to  the  pretty  Piercefield  Falls  (9  miles),  or  to  Big  Wolf 
Pond  (10  miles).  The  latter  is  reached  by  turning  off  from  the  river 
into  Raquette  Pond  2  miles  below  Lake  Tupper,  and  then  ascending 
Wolf  Brook  to  Little  WoJf  Pond^  whence  a  carry  of  ^  mile  leads  to 
Big  Wolf  Pond.  From  the  S.  end  of  Tupper  Lake  an  easy  route  leads 
9  miles  S.  through  the  lovely  Round  Pond  to  Little  Tupper  Lake 
(see  Sub-Route  I).  From  Little  Tupper  a  series  of  small  ponds  and  car- 
ries leads  E.  to  Long  Lake  (16  miles). 

From  the  Moodys  a  route  leads  over  a  3-mile  carry  to  Horseshoe  Pond,  and 
thence  with  an  occasional  short  carry  12  miles  farther  to  the  dismal  and  deer- 
ahounding  Mud  Lake,  4  mUes  in  circumference.  This  lake  is  covered  in 
then  season  with  lily-pads  and  margined  with  rank  wild  grass,  which  at- 
tracts deer  in  gi'eater  numbers  than  any  other  spot  in  the  Wilderness.  It  is 
also  said  to  have  been  a  favorite  feeding-ground  of  the  moose  before  they  were 
exterminated.  Seven  miles  N.  of  Mud  Lake  is  Cranberry  Lake,  one  of  the 
largest  of  the  Adirondack  series,  being  15  miles  long  and  1  to  5  miles  wide. 
It  discharges  to  the  N.  through  the  Oswegatchie  Eiver,  and  is  usually  visited 
from  the  W.  via  Gouverneur.  a  station  on  the  Rome.  Waterto\^Ti  &  Ogdensburg 
R.  R..  108  miles  from  Rome  (see  Route  40).  The  distance  from  Gouverneur  to 
the  lake  is  36  miles.  Silver  Lake  (reached  by  diverging  to  the  N.  W.  from  the 
Mud  Lake  route).  Pleasant  Lake,  and  numerous  other  ponds  and  lakelets  of  great 
beauty  lie  scattered  in  every  direction  over  this  remote  and  desolate  region. 

The  usual  route  from  the  Saranac  region  to  Long  Lake  and  Raquette 
Lake  is  via  Coreyh^  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake  (2  miles 
from  Sweeney's  Carry),  whence  the  Indian  Carry  leads  across  in  1  mile 
CZSc.  a  load)  to  the  Stony  Creek  Ponds  (sometimes  called  Spectacle 
Ponds).  The  Hiawatha  Hotel  stands  at  the  S.  terminus  of  the  carry 
close  by  the  first  of  the  Stony  Creek  Ponds,  which  are  three  in  num- 
ber and  discharge  by  Stony  Creek  into  the  Raquette.  The  river  is  en- 
tered at  a  point  20  miles  from  Tupper  Lake  and  about  13  miles  from 
Long  Lake.  The  route  is  up-stream,  and  in  7  miles  Mother  Johnsoii's 
tavern  is  reached.  A  few  rods  above  the  house  are  the  Raquette  Falls, 
about  12  ft.  high,  around  which  the  boats  are  hauled  {l^  mile,  $1.50  a 
load).  About  4  miles  above  Johnson's  Carry,  the  mouth  of  Cold  River, 
coming  down  from  Mt.  Seward,  is  passed ;  and  a  mile  beyond  the  boat 
enters  *Long  Lake  (see  Sub-Route  I),  with  Buck  Mt.  on  the  right 
and  the  Blueberry  Mts.  on  the  left. 

III.   Port   Kent   to  Ausable  Chasm  and   the   Saranac 
Lakes. 

Port  Kent  is  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  12  miles  above 
Plattsburg  and  nearly  opposite  Burlington,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  steamer  (see  Route  46).  Here  the  Keeseville,  Ausable  Chasm  & 
Lake  Champlain  R.  R.  connects  with  trains  and  steamers  and  conveys 
.passengers  to  the  Lake-View  House  (3  miles)  and  to  Keeseville  (5 
liles).  The  Lake-Yiew  House  stands  on  a  far-viewing  eminence 
just  above  the  hamlet  of  Birmingham,  and  is  the  most  convenient 
)oint  from  which  to  visit  the  Chasm.  Near  Keeseville,  the  Ausable 
15 


226  THE   ADIRONDACKS.  [Route  47. 

River  flows  over  the  Alice  Falls,  and  then  descends  a  line  of  swirling 
rapids  to  the  *  Birmingham  Falls,  where  it  plunges  over  a  preci- 
pice YO  ft.  high  into  a  semicircular  basin  of  great  beauty.  A  few  rods  far- 
ther down  are  the  Horseshoe  Falls,  near  which  the  gorge  is  entered  from 
above  by  a  staii^way  of  166  steps  leading  down  a  cleft  in  the  rock  (fee 
50c.).  Below  this  the  stream  grows  narrower  and  deeper,  and  rushes 
through  *  Ausable  Chasm,  where  at  the  narrowest  point  a  wedged 
bowlder  cramps  the  channel  to  the  width  of  6  or  8  ft.  Still  lower  down 
the  walls  stand  about  50  ft.  apart  and  are  more  than  100  ft.  high,  de- 
scending to  the  water's  edge  in  a  sheer  perpendicular  line.  The  chasm 
is  nearly  2  miles  long,  and  from  the  main  stream  branches  run  at  right 
angles  through  fissures,  some  of  which  offer  very  striking  and  beautiful 
effects.  Stairways,  walks,  and  galleries  enable  the  visitor  to  reach  the 
principal  points  of  interest;  and  with  the  aid  of  boats  constructed 
especially  for  the  purpose  the  entire  Chasm  can  be  traversed.  The  en- 
trance fee  of  50c.  entitles  the  traveler  to  visit  all  points  reached  by  the 
galleries  and  walks,  including  the  boat-ride  from  Table  Rock  to  the 
Pool ;  for  the  boat-ride  from  the  Pool  down  the  rapids  to  the  basin  at 
the  end  of  the  gorge  an  additional  fee  of  50c.  is  charged. 

Stages  run  from  the  Lake- View  House  to  Keeseville,  Ausable  Forks, 
St.  Regis,  and  Saranac  Lakes. 

IV.   Westport  to  Elizabethtown  and  Keene  Valley. 

Wesfport  is  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  a  few  miles  S.  of  Port 
Kent,  and  is  reached  by  railway  (Route  44)  or  by  steamer  from  Fort 
Ticonderaga.  It  is  described  in  Route  46.  From  Westport  stages  run  8 
miles  W.  to  Elizabethtown,  a  favorite  summer  resort,  lying  within 
the  borders  of  the  mountain-region  amid  singularly  picturesque  and  im- 
pressive scenery.  The  Mansion  House,  the  Valley  House,  and  the  Wind- 
sor are  good  hotels,  and  there  are  several  boarding-houses.  The  vil- 
lage stands  on  a  plateau,  closed  in  on  all  sides  by  lofty  hills  and  mount- 
ain-peaks, most  of  which  may  be  ascended  without  difficulty.  The 
Hurricane  Peak  (3, '763  ft.)  lies  5  miles  W.,  and  may  be  ascended  with 
guides.  The  view  from  its  summit  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing  that  the 
Adirondacks  afford.  The  Giant  of  the  Vcdley  (4,530  ft.)  is  also  some- 
times ascended  from  this  place,  though  the  route  is  long  and  difficult ; 
and  a  singularly  lovely  view  may  be  obtained  from  Cobble  Hill  (1,9 6S 
ft.),  a  dome-like  elevation  about  a  mile  S.  W.  of  the  town.  Haven 
Hill  is  a  lofty  peak  to  the  E.,  from  the  summit  of  which  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  the  Green  Mountains  are  combined  in  a  noble  view.  A 
delightful  drive  from  Elizabethtown  is  down  Pleasant  Valley  to  the  ro- 
mantic cascades  of  the  Boquet  River ;  or  8  miles  S.  W.  to  the  Split- 
Hock  Palls,  where  a  mountain-brook  descends  100  ft.  through  a  rugged 
and  resounding  gorge.  There  is  good  fishing  in  the  vicinity  of  the  vil- 
lage, in  the  Boquet  River,  in  Black  and  Long  Ponds,  and  in  the  trout- 
abounding  New  Pond. 

Elizabethtown  is  the  center  from  which  several  important  stage-routes  di- 
verge. The  State  Eoad  through  the  mountains  here  intersects  the  Great  North- 
em  Highway  which  runs  S.  to  Schroon  Lake  (32  miles)  and  N.  to  Keeseville  (21 


Route  47.]  TflE   ADlROKBACKS.  227 

miles).  Stages  connect  with  all  trains  at  "Westport,  8  miles  distant  (fare,  %1). 
Dally  stages  run  to  the  head  of  Keene  Valley  (16  miles,  fare  $1.50).  Daily 
stages  also  run  to  Saranac  Lake  (distance,  35  miles  ;  fare,  $3),  via  Keene,  N. 
Elba,  and  Lake  Placid.  Stages  run  to  Schroon  Lake  via  Root's  on  Mondays, 
Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  returning  alternate  days  (fare,  $2.50). 

About  10  miles  W.  of  Elizabethtown  is  the  beautiful  *  Keene 
Valley,  nestling  between  two  lofty  mountain-ranges,  and  watered  by 
the  S.  branch  of  the  Ausable  River.  From  the  village  of  Keene  or  Keene 
Center  at  the  N.  end  to  Beede's  at  the  S.  end  the  valley  is  nearly  8  miles 
long ;  and  at  different  points  in  it  are  8t.  Huherfs  Inn^  the  Tahavms 
House^  Maple-Grove  Cottage^  Crawford^ 8^  the  Beede  House ^  and  several 
others.  St.  Hubert's  Inn,  at  the  S.  end,  affords  an  excellent  starting- 
point  for  several  interesting  excursions.  Close  by  are  *  Roaring-Brook 
Falh,  where  a  brawling  mountain-brook  dashes  over  a  cliff  500  ft.  high 
in  a  succession  of  cascades.  Four  miles  away  is  the  romantic  H^mter^s 
Pass ;  and  nearer  at  hand  is  the  lovely  Chapel  Pond^  nestling  at  the 
base  of  Giant  of  the  Valley,  Camel's  Hump,  and  Bald  Peak,  which 
almost  close  it  in.  About  5  miles  from  St.  Hubert's  Inn,  reached  by  an 
excellent  macadamized  road  through  the  primitive  forest,  are  the  lonely 
and  sequestered  *  Ausable  Ponds,  which  are  among  the  loveliest  of 
the  smaller  Wilderness  lakes.  They  are  separated  from  each  other  by 
an  easy  "  carry  "  a  mile  long.  Near  the  Lower  Pond  are  the  beautiful 
Rainbow  Falls ;  and  it  is  only  V  miles  from  the  Upper  Pond  to  the 
summit  of  *  Mount  Marcy,  the  monarch  of  the  Adirondack  group. 
G-uides  and  an  outfit  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotels  in  Keene  Valley, 
and  the  ascent,  which  with  the  return  requires  2  days,  well  repays  the 
labor.  The  trail  itself  is  wonderfully  picturesque,  and  the  view  from 
the  summit  (5,33 7  ft.  high)  embraces  the  entire  Adirondack  region, 
together  with  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont. 

Other  routes  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Marcy  are  from  Adirondack  by  a  trail  12 
miles  long  ;  from  Roofs  Inn  by  a  road,  bridle-path,  and  trail  in  20  miles;  and 
from  ScotVs  by  way  of  the  Indian  Pass  in  23  miles.  All  these  are  described  in 
Sub-Route  y. 

The  stages  from  Elizabethtown  to  Saranac  cross  Keene  Valley  at 
its  N.  end,  traverse  the  picturesque  pass  between  Pitch-Off  and  Long 
Pond  Mountains  to  Cascade  Lakes  (the  Cascade  House),  4  miles  from 
Keene.  Seven  miles  farther  (22  miles  from  Elizabethtown)  is  the 
Mountain-  View  House,  commanding  fine  views  and  a  convenient  center 
for  excursions.  About  2  miles  beyond  are  John  Brown's  farm  and 
grave,  near  which  is  the  hamlet  of  N.  Elba,  and  in  2  miles  more  Lake 
Placid  is  reached.  Lake  Placid  and  the  route  thence  to  Saranac  (13 
miles)  are  described  in  Sub-Route  II. 

y.   Schroon  Lake  to  Elizabethtown  and  Keeseville. 

From  Pottersville  (see  p.  219)  the  Great  Northern  Highway  runs  al- 
most due  N.  to  Elizabethtown  (32  miles)  and  Keeseville  (53  miles). 
Stages  run  on  this  route  three  times  a  week  (Tuesdays,  Thursdays, 
and  Saturdays,  returning  alternate  days),  leading  for  the  first  10  miles 
along  the  shores  of  Schroon  Lake,  and  then  up  the  valley  of  Schroon 


228  THE   ADIEONDACKS.  [Ro^lte  47. 

River,  passing  for  the  greater  part  of  the  entire  distance  amid  pict- 
uresque and  striking  scenery.  Ten  miles  from  Schroon  Lake  the  stage 
stops  at  Root's  Inu,  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  sportsmen. 
Roads  from  Ticonderoga  (23  miles  distant)  and  Crown  Point  (18  miles 
distant)  intersect  at  this  point ;  and  several  of  the  Adirondack  attrac- 
tions are  within  easy  excursion-distance.  Mt.  Marcy  (Sub-Route  III) 
is  visited  by  a  wagon-road  leading  in  10  miles  to  Mud  Pond,  whence  a 
forest  bridle-path  leads  in  9  miles  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  a 
well-defined  trail  to  the  summit.  Beyond  Root's  the  road  traverses 
th©  beautiful  Schroon  Valley  to  its  head,  climbs  the  mountain-pass,  and 
descends  into  Pleasant  Valley,  passing  the  Split-Rock  Falls.  Elizaheth- 
town  (32  miles  from  Schroon)  is  described  in  Sub-Route  IV.  Beyond 
Elizabethtown  the  road  traverses  the  picturesque  gorge  of  Poke-o'-Moon- 
shine,  and  passes  in  22  miles  to  Keeseville  (Sub-Route  III).  At  Eliza- 
bethtown and  Keeseville  connection  is  made  with  the  usual  routes  into 
the  Adirondack  lake-region. 

VI.    Skeleton  Tours  or  "Round  Trips." 

The  following  tour  can  be  made  in  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  and  will 
embrace  the  most  striking  "sights"  of  the  Wilderness :  From  Crown 
Point,  on  Lake  Champlain,  to  Roofs  Inn  (see  above),  1 8  miles  ;  thence 
to  Tahmous^  20  miles ;  thence  to  Long  Lake,  20  miles.  From  Tahawus 
to  Adirondack,  11  miles.  From  Adirondack  to  the  summit  of  Mt. 
Marcy  (with  guides) ;  also  to  the  hulian  Pass,  the  most  majestic  natural 
wonder,  next  to  Niagara  Falls,  in  the  State.  From  the  Indian  Pass  to 
N.  Elba,  on  the  Elizabethtown  road  (10  miles  through  the  woods). 
From  N.  Elba  to  Saranac  Lake.  From  Saranac  Lake  to  Keeseville 
and  the  famous  Atisahle  Chasm. 

The  following  is  a  very  popular  "  round  trip  "  (all  tramping),  which 
embraces  the  "  Heart  of  the  Adirondacks  "  :  Start  from  Beede's  at  the 
head  of  Keene  Valley,  and  go  by  forest-path  4  miles  to  Lower  Ausable 
Pond ;  boat  through  pond  2  miles ;  trail  1  mile  to  the  Upper  Ausable 
Pond ;  boat  through  Upper  Pond  3  miles ;  trail  7  miles  to  summit  of 
Mt.  Marcy  through  Panther  Gorge  and  past  Cathedral  Rocks ;  trail  1 
miles  to  Lakes  Golden  and  Avalanche,  past  Lake  Perkins  or  "  Tear  of 
the  Clouds"  (the  highest  of  the  Adirondack  waters,  4,312  ft.  above  the 
sea)  and  Opalescent  Flume ;  from  Lake  Colden  5  miles  past  Calamity 
Pond  to  Adirondack  ;  thence  up  the  Hudson  5  miles  to  the  Indian  Pass  •, 
thence  down  the  Ausable  to  N.  Elba  and  John  Brown's  grave,  10  miles ; 
thence  to  Lake  Placid,  5  miles ;  through  Lake  Placid,  5  miles ;  to  sum- 
mit of  Whiteface  Mt.,  3-|  miles ;  thence  to  Wilmington,  and  out  by  any 
route  that  may  be  selected.  This  trip  takes  in  some  of  the  wildest  and 
most  characteristic  scenery  of  the  Adirondacks,  including  the  wonder- 
ful Indian  Pass,  the  hardly  less  wonderful  Panther  Gorge  on  the  E.  of 
Mt.  Marcy,  and  that  great  geological  curiosity,  the  mammoth  trap-dike 
of  Lake  Avalanche.  There  are  good  "  camps  "  at  Upper  Ausable  Pond, 
Panther  Gorge,  Lake  Perkins,  near  the  summit  of  Mt.  Marcy,  and  at 
Lake  Colden. 


Boute  45.]  LOXG   ISLAND.  229 

VII.    Lake  Pleasant. 

Lake  Pleasant  is  in  Hamilton  County,  New  York,  on  the  borders  of 
the  Adirondack  i-egion,  and  is  reached  froro  Amsterdam  on  the  New 
York  Central  R.  E.  by  a  stage  or  carriage  ride  of  50  miles.  There  are 
numerous  lakes  in  the  vicinity  besides  Pleasant,  the  chief  of  which  are 
Round  and  Piseco ;  and  the  Saranac  region  is  connected  with  Lake 
Pleasant  by  intermediate  waters  and  portages.  Deer  and  other  game 
are  abundant  in  the  forests,  and  fine  trout  may  be  taken  in  all  the 
brooks  and  lakes.  Sa^jevUle  is  a  thriving  little  village,  situated  on  ele- 
vated ground  between  Lakes  Pleasant  and  Round,  and  the  Lake  Pleasant 
House  there  is  a  favorite  resort.  The  Sturgk  House  is  at  the  outlet  of 
the  lake.  Piseco  Lake  is  larger  than  Lake  Pleasant,  and  lies  about 
8  miles  W.  Raquette  Lake  (see  p.  220)  is  30  miles  distant  by  boat  on 
Jessup's  River  and  Indian  and  Blue  Mt.  Lakes,  (ruides  and  camp 
equipage  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotels. 

48.  Long  Island. 

Long  Island,  part  of  the  State  of  New  York,  is  120  miles  in  ex- 
treme length  from  E.  to  W.,  with  an  average  width  of  14  miles,  and  an 
area  of  1,682  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Long  Island 
Sound,  which  separates  it  from  Connecticut,  and  on  the  S.  by  the  At- 
lantic Ocean,  while  East  River  separates  it  from  New  York  City.  The 
northern  half  of  the  island  is  agreeably  diversified  with  hills,  but  the 
surface  is,  for  the  most  part,  strikingly  level.  The  coast  is  indented 
with  numerous  bays  and  inlets ;  and  delicious  fresh-water  ponds,  fed  by 
springs,  are  everywhere  found  on  terraces  of  varying  elevation.  These 
little  lakes,  and  the  varied  coast-views,  give  Long  Island  picturesque 
features  which,  if  not  very  imposing,  are  certainly  of  a  most  attractive 
and  pleasing  character,  heightened  by  the  rural  beauty  of  the  numerous 
quiet  little  towns  and  charming  suuamer  villas.  Along  the  southern 
shore  of  the  island,  which  is  a  network  of  shallow,  landlocked  Avaters 
extending  VO  miles,  fine  shooting  and  fishing  may  be  had.  Hotel  and 
boarding-house  accommodation  is  ample.  The  leading  city  of  Long 
Island  {Brooklyrt)  and  the  two  resorts  most  frequented  by  visitors  from 
New  York  ( Coney  Island  and  Rockaway  Beach)  have  already  been  de- 
scribed in  Routes  1  and  2. 

a.  Long  Island  R.  R.  Main  Line  and  Branches. 
The  entire  railway  system  of  Long  Island  is  under  one  management, 
but  there  are  three  divisions  so  distinct  that  it  will  be  convenient  to 
follow  them  here.  The  Main  Line  of  the  Long  Island  R.  R.  extends 
along  the  central  line  of  the  island,  branching  at  its  E.  end,  as  the  island 
itself  does.  There  are  three  depots  at  the  W.  end :  one  in  Long  Island 
City  reached  from  New  York  by  ferries  from  James's  Slip,  foot  of 
New  Chambers  St.,  E.  R,,  and  from  the  foot  of  E.  34th  St. ;  and  two 
in  Brooklyn  (at  the  cor.  of  Flatbush  and  Atlantic  Aves.,  and  in  Bush- 
wick  Ave.  cor.  of  Montrose). 


230 


LONG   ISLAND. 


[Route  48. 


Route  JiS.]  LONG   ISLAND.  231 

Leaving  Long  Island  City,  the  train  passes  several  small  suburban 
villages  and  in  10  miles  reaches  Jamaica  {Jamaica  Hotel)^  an  interest- 
ing old  town  on  Jamaica  Bay,  settled  in  1656,  and  containing  now  about 
5,361  inhabitants.  The  South  Shore  Division  passes  through  the  town, 
and  it  is  connected  with  East  New  York  and  Brooklyn  by  the  Atlantic 
Div.,  which  runs  frequent  local  trains.  The  hamlets  of  Hollis  and 
Queeiu  (1 3  and  14  miles)  are  popular  places  of  residence ;  and,  just  be- 
yond, the  road  branches,  one  branch  going  to  Garden  City  (19  miles), 
the  residence-city  built  by  the  late  A.  T.  Stewart  as  a  model  for  subur- 
ban homes,  while  the  main  Une  passes  on  to  Mineola  (19  miles),  where 
the  Oyster  Bay  Branch  crosses.  There  is  a  fine  Episcopal  cathedral 
and  collegiate  institute  at  Garden  City,  and  the  model  houses  are  well 
worthy  of  notice.  Just  S.  of  Garden  City  is  the  ancient  village  of 
Hempstead  (21  miles),  situated  on  the  borders  of  the  wide-spreading 
Hempstead  Plains. 

The  Oyster  Bay  Branch  runs  N.  by  Garden  City  and  Mineola  to  Roslyn  (23 
miles  from  New  York),  a  pretty  village  at  the  head  of  Hempstead  Bay.  Near 
Eoslyn  is  Cedarmere,  for  many  years  the  country  residence  of  the  late  William 
CuUen  Bryant.  It  is  a  spot  of  great  though  quiet  picturesque  beauty,  overlook- 
ing the  Bay  and  the  Connecticut  shore  across  the  Sound.  Bryant's  grave  is  in  the 
adjacent  cemetery.  Near  Roslyn  are  many  lovely  lakelets,  and  a  short  distance 
S.  E.  is  Harbor  Hill,  the  highest  land  on  Long  Island,  from  the  summit  of 
which  (319  ft.  high)  there  is  a  pleasing  view.  Four  miles  beyond  Roslyn  is  Sea 
Cliff,  on  a  picturesque  bluff  overlooking  the  Sound,  and  noted  for  its  camp- 
meetings.  The  Sea  Cliff  House  accommodates  400  guests  at  reasonable  prices  ; 
there  are  over  100  cottages,  and  the  camp-meeting  tabernacle  seats  4,000.  Five 
miles  beyond  Roslyn  is  Glen  Cove  {Allen  House),  which  is  a  highly  popular 
resort  in  summer.  Glen  Cove,  Sea  Cliff',  and  Roslyn  are  also  reached  from  New 
York  by  steamer  from  Peck  Slip  (Pier  24),  East  River  (Sub-Route  c).  Six  miles 
beyond  Glen  Cove  is  Oyster  Bay_  (also  called  Syosset  Bay),  a  deep  inlet  from 
the  Sound,  which  is  numerously  visited  in  summer.  This  place  was  the  land- 
ing point  of  the  through  trains  which  connect  Boston,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
and  Washington  without  charge  of  cars.  The  Bay  View  Hotel  is  a  small  sum- 
mer hotel,  and  there  are  many  farmhouses  where  board  may  be  had  at  moderate 
rates. 

Beyond  Mineola  the  Main  Line  runs  to  Westbicry  (22  miles),  and 
fficJcsville  (25  miles),  which  is  named  for  Elias  Hicks,  the  Quaker  schis- 
matic, who  lived  and  preached  in  this  region  from  I'Z'Zl  to  1830,  riding 
10,000  miles  on  his  missionary  journeys,  and  preaching  over  1,000  times. 
The  Port  Jefferson  Branch  diverges  here  and  runs  N.  E.  in  34  miles  to 
Port  Jefferson. 

The  Port  Jefferson  Branch  runs  N.  E.  from  HicksvUle,  and  in  4  miles  reaches 
Syosset.  From  Cold  Spring  (3  miles  beyond  Syosset),  stages  run  to  Cold 
Spring  Harbor  {Laurelton  Hovse,  Forest  Laton  House),  which  attracts  many 
summer  visitors.  Three  miles  beyond  Cold  Spring  is  Huntington,  a  village  of 
3,028  inhabitants,  pleasantly  situated  on  Huntington  Harlbor  ;  and  6  miles  far- 
ther is  Nortliport  {Northport  House),  situated  on  another  deep  inlet  from  the 
Sound.  Near  Northport  is  the  famous  Beacon  farm,  comprising  1,000  acres  on 
the  borders  of  the  Sound.  Stations  :  St.  Johnland,  Smithtown,  Stony  Brook, 
and  Setauket.  Port  Jeflferson  (34  miles  from  Hicksville)  is  the  terminus  of 
the  road,  and  is  a  village  of  2,026  inhabitants. 

Beyond  Hicksville  the  Main  Line  runs  nearly  due  E.  to  Farmingdale 
(30  miles),  Brentwood  (41  miles).  Central  Islip  (43  miles),  and  Ronkon- 
koma  (48  miles).  One  mile  N.  of  Lakeland  is  Ronkoukoma  Lake,  a 
peculiar  sheet  of  water  about  3  miles  in  circumference,  situated  nearly  in 


232  '  LONG  ISLAND.  [Route  48. 

the  center  of  the  island.  The  perch-fishing  in  the  lake  is  good,  the  boating 
excellent,  and  near  the  shore  are  several  hotels  and  boarding-houses.  Ten 
miles  beyond  Konkonkoma  is  Ya/phanh.  At  Manor  (65  miles)  the 
road  forks,  the  Montauk  Division  running  S.  of  the  Great  Peconic  Bay 
to  Sag  Harbor,  while  the  Main  Line  runs  N.  E.  in  29  miles  to  Green- 
port.  Between  Manor  and  Greenport  are  the  pleasant  villages  of  Riv- 
erhead  (73  miles),  Mattituck  (83  miles),  Cutchogue  (85  miles),  and 
Southold  (90  miles),  each  of  which  attracts  many  summer  visitors. 
Greenport  [Booth  House,  Wyandank  Hotel)  is  a  lively  village  near 
the  E.  end  of  the  island,  with  a  snug  harbor  and  a  large  fishing-fleet. 
It  affords  excellent  still-water  bathing,  boating,  sailing,  and  fishing; 
and  in  their  season  wild  ducks  are  abundant.  Greenport  may  also  be 
reached,  as  a  general  thing,  by  steamers  from  New  York,  New  London, 
and  Hartford.  Daily  stages  run  in  9  miles  to  Orient  Point,  where  there 
is  a  large  summer  hotel,  and  Oi'ie^it  Village,  whei-e  there  are  several 
summer  boarding-houses.  Ferry-boats  connecting  with  every  train  run 
from  Greenport  to  Shelter  Island,  on  which  are  two  spacious  sum- 
mer hotels  (Mcmhasset  House,  Pi'ospect  House).  The  island  is  about  14. 
miles  long  by  4  wide,  and  has  a  gently  diversified  surface,  with  fresh- 
water lakelets  and  picturesque  bays.  It  is  also  the  site  of  a  Methodist 
camp-meeting  ground,  and  is  being  rapidly  improved.  Eight  miles  E. 
lies  Gardinerh  Island  (3,300  acres),  on  which  the  pirate  Kidd  buried 
vast  treasures,  part  of  which  was  recovered  in  1699  by  the  Earl  of 
Bellamont,  colonial  Governor  of  Massachusetts. 

The  Montauk  Division  diverges  at  Manor  and  runs  by  Eastport 
(70  miles),  Speonk  (73  miles),  and  W.  Hamp>ton  (75  miles),  to  Quogue 
(78  miles),  which  is  another  popular  summer  resort  with  several  large 
boarding-houses.  It  is  situated  on  Shinnecock  Bay,  and  the  bathing  and 
fishing  are  good.  Stations,  Southampton  (90  miles)  and  Bridgehampton 
(95  miles),  and  then,  100  miles  from  New  York,  the  train  stops  at  Sag 
Harbor,  a  prosperous  village  with  several  excellent  hotels,  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  picturesque  Gardiner's  Bay.  It  was  once  a  leading 
whaling-station,  but  its  maritime  importance  has  long  since  ceased, 
though  its  coasting-trade  is  still  large.  A  steamer  runs  from  Pier 
25,  East  River,  New  York,  to  Sag  Harbor,  Greenport,  and  Orient,  3 
times  a  week  (Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday),  and  another  tri- 
weekly line  coimects  Sag  Harbor  with  New  London  and  Hartford, 
Conn.  Daily  stages  from  Bridgehampton  run  in  6  miles  to  East 
Hampton,  "  the  quietest  of  all  quiet  towns,"  with  quaint  old  houses, 
and  a  street  of  noble  elms,  which  were  planted  at  the  instigation  of  Dr. 
Lyman  Beecher,  who  was  pastor  here  from  1798  to  1810.  The  surf-bath- 
ing at  Napeague  Beach  (1  mile  from  the  village)  is  excellent.  A  short  dis- 
tance N.  E.  is  the  sequestered  village  of  Amagansett.  About  15  miles  E. 
(reached  by  private  conveyance)  is  Montauk  Point,  the  eastern  extremity 
of  Long  Island.     On  it  is  a  lighthouse  with  a  powerful  revolving  light. 

b.    Montauk  Divmon. 
This  division  of  the  Long  Island  R.  R.  has  the  same  terminal  stations 
in  Brooklyn  and  Long  Island  City  as  the  main  line  (see  Sub-Route  c). 


Route  J^S.]  LONG   ISLAND.  233 

Jamaica  (10  miles)  has  already  been  described.  From  Valley  Stream 
(16  miles)  a  branch  road  runs  S.  W.  to  Rockaway  Beach,  passing  the 
beach-villages  of  Woodsh.irgh  (19  mWe^)  a.TiA  Far  RocJcaicay  (21  miles), 
with  their  spacious  summer  hotels  and  cottages.  Rockaway  Beach 
is  described  on  p.  24.  Xear  Pearsall's  the  Long  Beach  Branch  diverges, 
and  runs  to  liOng  Beach,  a  favorite  point  for  summer  excursions, 
with  a  vast  hotel,  Jjathing,  music,  etc.  On  the  main  line,  20  miles  from 
Valley  Stream,  is  Babylon  (2,768  population),  which  is  much  resorted 
to  for  its  fishing.  Here  there  are  several  comfortable  hotels  and  many 
summer  boarding-houses.  From  Babylon  a  small  steamer  runs  8  miles 
across  the  Great  South  Bay  to  Fire  Island  {Snrf  Hotise\  which 
offers  the  attractions  of  surf  and  still-water  bathing,  boating  and  sailing, 
superb  fishing,  and  cool  ocean-breezes,  and  draws  many  summer  visitors. 
The  beach  is  admirable,  and  occupies  the  W.  end  of  a  remarkable  sand 
ridge  which  is  only  a  few  rods  wide  but  runs  for  40  miles  along  the  coast 
to  Quogue  Xeck,  inclosing  a  series  of  broad  bays  and  estuaries.  Six 
miles  beyond  Babylon  is  Islip  [Lake^  Pavilion)^  a  pretty  village  on 
the  Great  South  Bay,  containing  many  tasteful  villas.  It  is  much 
visited  in  summer,  and  besides  the  hotels  there  are  a  number  of  board- 
ing-houses. From  Patchogue  (54  miles  from  New  York ;  Eagle, 
Laurel,  Ocean  Avenue),  a  prosperous  village  about  a  mile  from  the 
Great  South  Bay,  on  the  line  is  Bellport,  a  much-visited  village  on  Bell- 
]iort  Bay.  Beyond  this  station  is  the  pretty  village  of  Center 
Moriches  {Beachvieiv,  Ocean,  Riverside),  which  is  extensively  visited  in 
summer.  Both  fishing  and  hunting  are  excellent,  and  surf-bathing  may 
be  enjoyed  by  sailing  across  the  Bay  to  the  outer  beach,  where  is  a  sum- 
mer hotel.  There  are  many  summer  boarding-houses  in  Moriches  and 
also  in  E.  Moi-iches,  which  lies   across  the  Tenillo  River. 

c.  The  North  Shore. 
The  North  Side  Div.  of  the  Long  Island  R.  R.  begins  at  Long  Island 
City,  and  its  depot  is  reached  from  New  York  by  ferries  from  foot  of 
New  Chambers  St.,  E.  R.,  James  Slip  and  E.  34th  St.,  and  from  Brook- 
lyn by  horse-cars.  Leaving  Long  Island  City  (or  Hunter's  Point)  the 
train  passes  the  pretty  suburban  towns  of  Woodside  (3  miles),  Winfield 
(4  miles),  and  Nenioim  (5  miles),  and  in  8  miles  reaches  Flushing, 
a  beautiful  village  of  19,803  inhabitants  at  the  head  of  Flushing  Bay, 
near  the  entrance  of  Long  Island  Sound.  Many  business  men  from 
New  York  make  their  homes  in  Flushing,  and  the  village  is  noted  for 
its  wealth  and  culture,  for  its  umbrageous  streets  and  finely  kept  gardens, 

I  and  for  its  educational  institutions.  In  the  N.  part  of  the  village  is  a 
neat  monument  to  the  soldiers  of  the  country  who  died  in  the  civil  war. 
The  extensive  nurseries  of  the  Parsons  &  Sons  Co.  here  are  worth  a  visit, 
and  the  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  very  attractive.  At  Flushing  the  road 
divides,  one  branch  running  by  Bay  side,  Douglaston,  and  Little  Neck  to 
Great  Neck  (6  miles  beyond  Flushing),  A\-hile  the  other  diverges  to  College 
Point  and  Whitesione  (3  miles  beyond  Flushing).  All  these  points  and  the 
adjacent  localities  are  much  visite  I  in  summer,  and  several  of  them  mav 


234:  NEW  yoEK  TO  EASTON.  [Boute  49. 

p.  M.  for  Whitestone,  Great  Neck,  Sea  Cliff,  Mott's  Dock,  Sands  Point, 
Glen  Coye,  Glenwood,  and  Roslyn,  returning  next  morning.  At  Creed- 
moor,  5  miles  beyond  Flushing,  is  the  famous  Ci-eedmoor  Rijle-Range^ 
the  most  perfectly  appointed  in  America  (reached  by  frequent  trains 
from  Hunter's  Point).  The  range  and  grounds  belong  to  the  National 
Rifle  Association,  and  contain  30  targets  that  can  be  shot  at  from  50 
to  1,200  yards.     There  are  two  hotels  near  the  range. 

49.  New  York  to  Easton. 

As  far  as  Denville  either  of  two  routes  can  be  taken  :  The  Boonton,  Branch 
of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  We  tern  K.  R.  is  that  taken  by  the  through 
trains  from  New  York,  but  is  much  less  interesting  than  the  one  described,  below. 
The  only  important  stations  passed  are  Patersbn  (Route  41)  and  Soonton 
(30  miles),  a  manufacturing  town  of  3,307  inhabitants  on  the  Rockaway  River 
and  Morris  Canal,  in  the  midst  of  a  very  mountainous  region.  By  this  route 
Denville  is  34  miles  from  New  York.  The  other  is  by  Morristown  on  the  same 
road.    Distance,  85  miles  ;  time,  3^  hours. 

Passengers  take  the  ferry-boat  from  foot  of  Barclay  St.  or  Chris- 
topher St.  to  the  station  in  Hoboken.  Leaving  Hoboken,  the  train 
traverses  the  Bergen  Tunnel,  and  passes  in  8  miles  to  ]Ve"wark  (see  p. 
30)  across  wide  marshes.  Three  miles  beyond  Newark  is  Orange 
[Mansion  Hoiise^  Park  House),  a  beautiful  city  of  18,844  inhabitants, 
surrounded  by  lovely  scenery,  and  a  favorite  suburban  home  of  business 
men  from  New  York.  A  short  distance  to  the  W.  lies  Llewellyn  Park^ 
a  small  inclosure  laid  out  in  the  best  style  of  landscape-gardening  and 
containing  fine  villas  and  mansions  which  have  the  park  in  common.  A 
little  farther  W.  is  the  Orange  Mountain,  the  crest  of  which  is  crowned 
by  costly  residences  standing  amid  highly  cultivated  grounds.  From 
various  points  of  the  mountain  there  are  remarkably  fine  views,  in- 
cluding the  lake  and  mountain  region  of  New  Jersey  and  New  York 
City  and  Harbor.    The  drives  about  Orange  are  extremely  picturesque. 

Two  miles  beyond  Orange  the  train  stops  at  8.  Orange,  and  at  Mil- 
hum,  3  miles  farther,  rounds  the  extremity  of  Orange  Mt.  and  begins 
the  steep  ascent  of  Second  Mt.,  on  the  crest  of  which  is  Summit 
{Blackburn  House,  Park  House),  a  popular  summer  resort,  noted  for  the 
extent  and  beauty  of  its  views.  At  Madison  (26  miles)  the  road  first 
enters  the  borders  of  the  mountain-region,  which  continually  grows 
more  picturesque  as  the  train  proceeds  westward.  The  Drew  Theological 
Seminary  is  located  at  Madison,  and  4  miles  beyond  is  Morristown, 
with  8,156  inhabitants  [Mansion  House,  U.  S.  Hotel),  the  capital  of  Mor- 
ris County,  on  the  Whippany  River,  upon  a  plain  surrounded  by  hills. 
It  is  noteworthy  as  having  been,  during  the  Revolution,  the  headquarters 
of  the  American  army  upon  two  occasions.  In  the  rear  of  the  Court- 
House  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Nonsense  may  still  be  seen ;  and  Washing- 
toil's  Heaclqicai'ters,  owned  and  preserved  by  the  State,  is  ^  mile  E.  of 
the  village.  In  the  public  square  is  a  Soldiers'  Monument,  and  on 
Pigeon  Mt.  is  the  vast  and  massive  State  Insane  Asylum,  built  of  granite 
at  a  cost  of  $3,000,000.  Beyond  Morristown  the  train  crosses  Morris 
Plains  and  at  Denville  (3*7  miles)  meets  the  Boonton  Branch. 

Five  miles  beyond  Denville  is  the  prosperous  little  manufacturing 


Boute  50.]  PHILADELPHIA   TO    PITTSBIJRG.  235 

city  of  Dover  (JoUy  House),  whence  a  branch  road  runs  to  the  pleas- 
ant village  of  Chester  in  13  miles.  From  Drakesville  (4Y  miles  fi'om  Jfew 
York)  a  branch  road  rmis  in  4  miles  to  *Lake  Hopatcong,  loftily 
situated  among  the  Brookland  Mts.,  725  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  lake  is 
about  9  miles  long  by  4  miles  wide,  is  dotted  with  islands,  aifords  ex- 
cellent fishing,  and  is  surrounded  by  varied  and  beautiful  scenery.  The 
name  (Hopatcong)  means  "Stone  over  the  Water,"  and  was  given  it  by 
the  Indians  on  account  of  an  artificial  causeway  of  stone  which  once 
connected  one  of  the  islands  with  the  shore,  but  which  is  now  submerged. 
Two  small  steamers  ply  on  the  lake,  and  there  are  several  summer 
hotels  {Hotel  Breslin,  Mount  Arlington  House,  Nolan's  Point  Villa). 
Near  the  former  is  Southardh  Peak,  from  the  summit  of  which  the 
Delaware  Water-Gap  and  the  Bloomfield  Mts.  are  both  visible.  Four 
miles  beyond  Drakesville  is  Stanhope  (52  miles),  whence  stages  run  in  2^ 
miles  to  Budd's  Lake  (also  called  Lake  Senecawana),  a  beautiful  sheet 
of  water  nearly  circular  in  form,  3^  miles  in  circumference,  deep,  clear, 
and  abounding  in  fish,  and  surrounded  by  a  picturesque  country,  with 
fine  views  and  mountains  in  the  distance.  This  attractive  spot  is  much 
frequented  by  excursion  parties  during  the  summer  season.  Schooley's 
Mt.  is  8  miles  distant,  and  Lake  Hopatcong  is  easily  visited  from  Budd's 
Lake.  From  Hackettstovm  (61  miles)  stages  run  in  3^  miles  to  *  Schoo- 
ley's Mountain  {Dorincourt  and  Heath  House),  a  favorite  summer  re- 
sort of  Xew- Yorkers.  It  is  not  an  isolated  peak,  but  a  ridge  of  con- 
siderable extent,  Budd's  Lake  being  upon  one  part  of  its  summit.  It 
is  about  1,200  ft.  high,  and  even  amid  the  "August  ardors"  its  air  is 
cool,  pure,  and  bracing.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  delightful,  and 
the  scenery  picturesque  and  pleasing.  Another  route  from  New  York 
to  Schooley's  Mt.  (and  also  to  Lake  Hopatcong)  is  via  High  Bridge 
Branch  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey. 

WasM7igton  (71  miles)  is  the  junction  of  the  line  via  Morristown  with 
the  Main  Line  of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.,  and 
passes  on  via  Stewartsville  and  Phillipsburg  to  Easton,  Pa.  (85  miles 
from  New  York),  Avhich  is  described  in  Route  45.  The  main  line  from 
Washington  leads  in  11  miles  to  Manunka  Chunk,  just  before  reaching 
which  the  train  passes  through  the  Manunka  Chunk  Mt.  by  the  Voss 
Gap  Tunnel,  1,000  ft.  long.  At  Manunka  Chunk  the  Belvidere  div.  of 
the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  comes  in.  The  Lackawanna  route,  with  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  route  to  the  Delaware  Water-Gap,  Scranton,  Bingham- 
ton,  and  Owego,  is  described  in  Route  43. 

50.  Philadelphia  to  Harrisburg  and  Pittsburg. 

By  the  Pennsylvania  E.  R.  Distances  :  to  Downingto^vn,  32  miles  ;  to  Lan- 
caster, 69  ;  to  Middletown,  96  ;  to  Harrisburg,  105  ;  to  Huntingdon,  203  ;  to  AI- 
toona,  237  ;  to  Pittsburg,  354.  This  (formerly  the  Pennsylvania  Central  E.  E.)  is 
now  part  of  the  Pennsylvania  E.  E.  system,  which  includes  upward  of  2,366  miles 
of  railway.  The  limited  express  is  formed  of  vestibuled  cars,  composed  of 
drawing-room,  dining-room,  smoking,  and  sleeping-cars.  Through  trains,  with 
vestibuled  drawing-room,  dining,  and  sleeping  cars,  run  without  change  from 
New  York  via  Philadelphia  to  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  and  Louisville. 
The  time  from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg  is  about  9J  hours. 


236  PHILADELPHIA   TO    PITT8BTJBG.  [Route  50. 

Leaving  the  station  in  Philadelphia  (cor.  Market  and  Broad  Sts.), 
the  train  passes  through  a  pleasant  suburban  region  and  enters  one  of 
the  richest  agricultural  districts  in  America,  which  is  traversed  for 
nearly  100  miles.  The  size  and  solidity  of  the  houses  and  barns,  and 
the  perfection  of  the  cultivation,  will  be  apt  to  remind  the  tourist 
rather  of  the  best  farming  districts  of  England  than  of  what  he  usually 
sees  in  the  United  States.  Paoli  (20  miles)  was  the  scene  of  a  battle 
fought  Sept.  20,  1777,  in  which  the  British  under  Gen.  Gray  surprised 
and  defeated  the  Americans  under  Gen.  Wayne.  The  battle  is  com- 
monly called  the  "Paoli  massacre,"  because  a  large  number  of  the 
Americans  were  killed  after  they  had  laid  down  their  arms.  A  marble 
monument,  erected  in  1817,  marks  the  site  of  the  battle-field.  Be- 
yond Paoli  the  scenery  grows  more  picturesque,  and  fine  views  are  had 
of  the  beautiful  Chester  Valley.  Bovmingtoiim  (S2  miles)  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Chester  Valley  Branch  of  the  Readrag  P.  P.,  and  is  near 
the  marble-quarries  which  supplied  the  marble  from  which  Girard  Col- 
lege (Philadelphia)  was  biiilt.  At  Coatesville  (38  miles)  the  W.  branch 
of  the  Brandywine  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  835  ft.  long  and  75  ft. 
high.  Parkeshurg  (44  miles)  and  Christiana  (48  miles)  are  busy  manu- 
facturing villages.  Gap  (51  miles)  is  so  named  because  it  lies  in  the 
gap  through  which  the  road  passes  from  the  Chester  Valley  to  the 
Pequea  Valley.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  attractive.  Lancaster 
{City^  Cooper^  Lancaster,  and  Stevens)  is  situated  near  the  Conestoga 
Creek,  which  is  crossed  in  entering  the  city.  It  was  incorporated  in  1818, 
and  was  the  seat  of  the  State  government  from  1799  to  1812.  It  is  now 
a  prosperous  manufacturing  city  of  32,011  inhabitants,  containing  many 
line  buildings,  publtc  and  private.  The  Court-House  (on  ET  King  St.)  is 
an  imposing  edifice  with  a  Corinthian  portico ;  and  the  County  Prison 
(also  on  E.  King  St.)  is  a  handsome  building  in  the  Norman  style.  P\d- 
ton  Hall,  near  the  market-place,  is  a  noteworthy  structure,  used  for  pub- 
lic assemblies.  On  James  St.  are  the  substantial  buildings  of  Franklin 
and  Ifarshall  College  (German  Reformed),  organized  in  1853  by  the 
union  of  Marshall  with  the  old  establishment  of  Franklin  College,  which 
was  founded  in  1787.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  the  Theological  Seminary 
of  the  Reformed  Church.  The  institutions  together  have  about  25,000 
volumes  in  the  libraries,  and  200  students.  The  oldest  turnpike  road  in 
the  United  States  terminates  at  Lancaster,  to  which  it  runs  from  Phila- 
delphia. Besides  its  large  cotton-mills  and  cork- works,  Lancaster  has  a 
watch-factory,  a  comb-factory,  and  extensive  manufactures  of  axes,  car- 
riages, railroad-iron,  etc.  The  city  is  the  metropolis  of  a  rich  agricult- 
ural county,  and  the  center  of  a  vast  tobacco-trade.  It  contains  up- 
wai-d  of  100  large  tobacco-warehouses  and  packing  establishments. 

The  only  stations  between  Lancaster  and  Harrisburg  which  require 
mention  are  Middletown  (96  miles),  on  the  Susquehanna  River,  at  the 
mouth  of  Swatara  Creek,  Avith  extensive  tubular  iron-works  and  ma- 
chine-shops, and  Steelton,  the  location  of  the  great  Pennsylvania  Steel 
Works,  a  town  of  9,250  inhabitants,  3  miles  below  Harrisburg.  Har- 
risburg {Bolton,  Lochiel,  and  United  States),  the  capital  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, is  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna  River,  which  is  here  a 


Route  50.'\  PHILADELPHIA    TO    PITTSBURG.  237 

mile  wide  and  spanned  by  2  bridges.  Harrisburg  was  laid  out  by  John 
Hards  in  1785,  was  incorporated  as  a  borough  in  1791,  became  the 
State  capital  in  1812,  received  a  city  charter  in  1860,  and  in  1890 
had  a  population  of  39,S85.  The  city  is  handsomely  built,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  magnificent  scenery.  The  *  State-Hovse^  finely  situated 
on  an  eminence  near  the  center,  is  a  handsome  brick  building  180  ft. 
long  by  80  ft.  wide,  with  a  circular  Ionic  portico  in  front  surmounted 
by  a  dome  commanding  a  fine  view.  In  the  second  story  is  the  State 
Library  of  66,000  voluines,  with  numerous  portraits  and  cabinets  of 
curiosities.  On  each  side  of  the  State-House  is  a  smaller  building  of 
similar  design  devoted  to  Government  uses,  and  in  the  grounds  is  a 
beautiful  Soldiers^  Monument  in  honor  of  those  who  fell  in  the  Mexican 
War.  The  State  Arsenal  is  a  spacious  building  a  short  distance  outside 
of  the  city  limits,  surrounded  by  a  grove  of  trees  about  5  acres  in  ex- 
tent. The  Comi-Honse^  in  Market  St.,  is  a  brick  edifice  surmounted  by 
a  dome,  and  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  a  vast  and  imposing  building 
1-J  mile  X.  of  the  city.  The  other  principal  public  buildings  are  the 
Executive  Mansion,  the  market-houses,  county  prison,  the  United  States 
Post-Office^  an  opera-house,  and  several  churches.  Front  St.,  overlook- 
ing the  river,  contains  many  of  the  finest  residences.  Harris  Park,  at 
the  intersection  of  Front  St.  and  Washington  Ave.,  is  the  spot  where 
John  Harris,  Indian  trader,  and  father  of  the  founder  of  the  city,  was 
bound  to  a  tree  by  the  Indians,  about  the  year  1719,  who  were  about 
to  burn  him  to  death  when  a  rescuing  party  arrived.  Harrisburg  Ceme- 
tery (reached  by  State  St.)  occupies  a  commanding  situation  and  affords 
fine  views.  At  the  intersection  of  Dauphin  and  State  Sts.  is  an  obelisk, 
110  ft.  high,  to  the  soldiers  of  Dauphin  County  who  fell  in  the  late  war. 
About  5  miles  above  Harrisburg  the  railroad  crosses  the  Susque- 
hanna on  a  splendid  bridge  3,670  ft.  long;  the  view  from  the  center  of 
this  bridge  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  line.  Near  Cove  Station,  11 
miles  from  Harrisburg,  the  Cove  Mt.  and  Peter's  Mt.  are  seen,  and  from 
this  point  to  within  a  short  distance  of  Pittsburg  the  scenery  is  superb, 
and  in  places  grand  beyond  description.  Duncannon  (120  miles)  is  at 
the  entrance  to  the  beautiful  Juniata  Valley,  which  is  followed  for 
about  100  miles  to  the  base  of  the  Allegheny  Mts.  The  landscape  of 
the  Juniata  is  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque ;  the  mountain  back- 
ground, as  continuously  seen  across  the  river  from  the  cars,  being  often 
strikingly  bold  and  majestic.  The  passage  of  the  river  through  the 
Great  Tuscarora  Mt.,  1  mile  W.  of  Millerstown  (138  miles),  is  especially 
fine.  Four  miles  beyond  Mifflin  (154  miles)  the  train  enters  the  wild 
and  romantic  gorge  known  as  the  ^  Long  Narrows,  which  is  traversed 
by  the  railway,  highway,  river,  and  canal.  Mount  Union  (191  miles)  is 
at  the  entrance  of  the  gap  of  Jack's  Mt.  Three  miles  beyond  is  the 
famous  Sidling  Hill,  and  still  farther  W.  the  Broad  Top  Mt.  Hunting- 
don (203  miles)  is  a  flourishing  village  on  the  Juniata,  finely  situated 
and  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery. 

The  Huntingdon  &  Broad  Top  R.  E.  runs  S.  W.  from  Huntingdon  to  Mt. 
Dallas,  connecting  at  that  point  with  the  Bedford  Div.  of  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.    Bedford  (^  miles  from  Huntingdon)  is  a  pretty  village  on  the  Rays- 


238  PHILADELPHIA   TO   PITTSBTJEG.  [Eoute  50. 

town  branch  of  the  Jnniata,  whence  stages  run  in  1^^  mile  to  the  Bedford 
Springs  {Springs  Hotel).  The  springs  are  pleasantly  situated  in  a  picturesque 
mountain  glen,  and  their  great  altitude  and  delightful  summer  climate,  to- 
gether with  the  beautiful  mountain  scenery  of  the  neighborhood,  have  long 
made  them  a  popular  resort  for  pleasure-seekers  as  well  as  invalids.  The 
waters  are  saline-chalybeate,  and  are  considered  beneficial  in  dyspepsia,  dia- 
betes, incipient  consumption,  and  skin  diseases. 

At  Petersburg.,  7  miles  W.  of  Huntingdon,  the  railroad  parts  com- 
pany with  the  canal  and  follows  the  Little  Juniata,  which  it  again  leaves 
at  Tyrone  (223  miles)  to  enter  the  Tuckahoe  Valley,  famous  for  its  iron- 
ore.  At  the  head  of  the  Tuckahoe  Valley  and  at  the  foot  of  the  Alle- 
ghanies  is  Altoona  {Arlington.,  Central.,  Logan  House).,  a  handsome 
city  of  3 0,3 3 7  inhabitants,  built  up  since  1850,  when  it  was  a  primitive 
forest,  by  being  selected  as  the  site  of  the  vast  machine-shops  of  the 
Pennsylvania  R.  R.  The  trains  usually  stop  here  for  refreshments,  and 
many  travelers  arriving  here  in  the  evening  remain  over-night  in  order 
to  cross  the  Alleghanies  by  daylight.  Just  beyond  Altoona  the  ascent 
of  the  Alleghanies  begins,  and  in  the  course  of  the  next  1 1  miles  some 
of  the  finest  scenery  and  the  greatest  feats  of  engineering  on  the  entire 
line  are  to  be  seen.  Within  this  distance  the  road  mounts  to  the  tunnel 
at  the  summit  by  so  steep  a  grade  that,  while  in  the  ascent  double  power 
is  required  to  move  the  train,  the  entire  11  miles  of  descent  are  run 
without  steam,  the  speed  of  the  train  being  regulated  by  the  "  brakes." 
At  one  point  (the  Horseshoe)  there  is  a  curve  as  short  as  the  letter  U, 
and  that,  too,  where  the  grade  is  so  steep  that  in  looking  across  from 
side  to  side  it  seems  that,  were  the  tracks  laid  contiguous  to  each  other, 
they  would  form  a  letter  X,  The  road  hugs  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
and  from  the  windows  next  to  the  valley  the  traveler  can  look  down  on 
houses  and  trees  dwarfed  to  toys,  while  men  and  animals  appear  like  ants 
from  the  great  elevation.  Going  W.  the  left-hand,  and  coming  E.  the 
right-hand,  side  of  the  cars  is  most  favorable  for  enjoying  the  scenery. 
The  summit  of  the  mountain  is  pierced  by  a  tunnel  3,612  ft.  long,  through 
which  the  train  passes  before  commencing  to  descend  the  W.  slope. 
The  much-visited  Cresson  Springs  are  2-J  miles  beyond  the  tunnel, 
3,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  There  are  7  springs  here,  and  the  waters  are 
highly  esteemed,  but  the  place  is  visited  rather  for  the  delicious  coolness 
of  its  summer  climate  than  for  the  curative  virtues  of  its  mineral  waters. 
The  thermometer  rarely  reaches  75°  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  hottest 
days  of  summer ;  and  the  nights  are  so  cool  that  blankets  are  requisite 
for  comfortable  sleep.  The  hotels  (of  which  the  Mo^mtain  House  is  the 
principal)  and  the  cottages  accommodate  about  2,000  guests.  The  drives 
in  the  vicinity  are  very  attractive;  and  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  runs 
special  trains  at  small  cost  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  wish  to  view 
the  magnificent  scenery  along  the  mountain  division  of  the  road. 

In  descending  the  mountains  from  Cresson  the  remains  of  another 
railroad  are  constantly  seen,  sometimes  above  and  sometimes  below  the 
track  followed  by  the  trains.  This  was  the  old  Portage  R.  R.  by  which, 
in  the  ante-locomotive  days,  loaded  canal-boats  Avere  carried  over  the 
mountain  in  sections  by  inclined  planes  and  joined  together  at  the  foot. 
The  stream  which  is  almost  continuously  in  sight  during  the  descent  is 


Route  50.]  PHILADELPHIA    TO    PTTTSBURa.  239 

the  Conemaugh  Creek,  which  is  crossed  by  a  stone  viaduct  near  Cone- 
mcwgh  Station  (273  miles),  the  terminus  of  the  mountain  division  of  the 
road.  JohnstoiL-n  (276  miles)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  borough  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Conemaugh  and  Stony  Creeks.  The  Cambria  Iron- 
Works,  seen  to  the  right  of  the  road,  are  among  the  most  extensive  in 
America.  At  Blairsville  Intersection  (300  miles)  the  road  branches,  the 
main  line  running  to  Pittsburg  by  Latrohe  (313  miles)  and  Greeiishurg 
(323  miles) ;  while  the  Western  Division  runs  to  Allegheny  City  by 
Blairsville  (303  miles).  The  scenery  along  both  routes  is  pleasing  but 
not  striking. 

Pittsburg. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Monongahela  House,  cor.  Water  and  Smithfield  Sts. ;  the 
Hotel  Anderson,  cor.  6th  St.  and  Penn  Ave.;  the  Hotel  Dvquesne  (on  the  Eu- 
ropean plan),  in  Smithfield  St.  near  .5th  Ave.,  are  the  principal  hotels.  Other 
good  houses  are  the  Central,  cor.  Smithfield  St.  and  3d  Ave.  ;  the  St.  Charles, 
cor.  Wood  St.  and  3d  Ave.  ;  and  the  Hotel  Boyer,  Duquesne  Way  and  7th  St. 

Restaurants.— ^o;'€/  Duquesne;  NeivelVs,  5th  Ave.,  above  Wood  St.;  E. 
Beineman.  505  Wood  St.  ;  and  for  ladies,  A.  J.  Hagan,  607  Smithfield  St. 

Horse,  cable,  and  electric  cars  run  on  the  principal  streets  and  to  the  sub- 
urbs. Reading-rooms  at  the  Mercantile  Library  in  Penn  St.  near  6th,  and  at  the 
Y.  M.  C.  A.,  cor.  Penn  Ave.  and  7th  St.  Post- Office  at  the  cor.  of  Smithfield 
St.  and  4th  Ave. 

Pittsburg,  the  second  city  of  Pennsylvania  in  population  and  impor- 
tance, and  one  of  the  chief  manufacturing  cities  in  the  United  States, 
is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela  Rivers, 
which  here  form  the  Ohio.  The  city  occupies  the  delta  between 
the  two  rivers,  with  several  populous  suburbs  annexed  in  1872  and 
1874,  and  the  population  in  1890  was  238,617.  The  city  was  laid 
out  in  1765  on  the  site  of  the  old  French  Fort  du  Quesne,  famous 
in  colonial  annals,  and  on  its  capture  by  the  British  the  name  was 
changed  to  Fort  Pitt,  in  honor  of  William  Pitt.  The  city  charter  was 
granted  in  1816.  The  city  is  substantially  and  compactly  built,  and  the 
main  thoroughfares  are  brilliantly  illuminated  by  arc  and  incandescent 
electric  lights.  Nine  bridges  span  the  Alleghany  River  and  5  the  Monon- 
gahela, and  several  new  bridges  are  projected.  From  its  situation,  Pitts- 
burg enjoys  excellent  commercial  facilities,  and  has  become  the  center 
of  an  extensive  commerce  with  the  Western  States  ;  while  its  vicinity 
to  the  inexhaustible  iron  and  coal  mines  of  Pennsylvania  has  made  it  a 
great  manufacturing  center.  The  extent  of  its  steel,  glass,  and  iron 
manufactures  has  given  it  the  appellation  of  the  "  Iron  City,"  while  the 
heavy  pall  of  smoke  that  formerly  overhung  it,  before  the  introduction 
of  natural  gas,  caused  it  to  be  styled  the  "  Smoky  City."  The  stranger 
should  not  fail  to  visit  its  great  manufacturing  establishments,  particu- 
larly those  of  iron,  steel,  electric  supplies,  and  glass, 

lAherty.,  Wood,  Market,  Smithfield.^  5th  Ave.,  Penn,  and  6th  Sts.  are 
the  principal  business  streets,  and  they  contain  many  handsome  build- 
ings. Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  *  Municipal  HaJI,  cor. 
Smithfield  St.  and  Virgin  Alley,  costing  $750,000,  with  a  granite  front 
and  a  massive  tower ;  the  Custom-House  and  Post-  Office,  a  fine  structure 
of  stone,  cor.  Smithfield  St.  and  4th  Ave. ;  the  United  States  Ar- 
senal, standing  in  ornamental  grounds  in  the  N.  E.  section  of  the  city, 


240  PHILADELPHIA    TO    PITTSBUEG.  [Route  50. 

and  the  Masonic  Temple  on  Fifth  Ave,  01  the  110  churches,  the 
most  imposing  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Fan!^  a  large 
ediiice  of  brick,  with  2  spires  and  a  dome  over  the  choir.  *  Trinity 
Church  (Episcopal)  is  a  fine  building  in  the  English-Gothic  style,  in 
6th  Ave.  near  Smithfield  St.  St.  Peter's  (Episcopal),  in  Grant  St.,  is  also 
a  handsome  structure.  The  First  Presbyterian^  near  Trinity  Church,  is 
a  massive  stone  edifice  with  2  towers  ;  and  the  United  Evangelical  (Ger- 
man) church,  cor.  Smith  Ave.  and  Smithfield  St.,  is  a  handsome  building. 
Other  notable  church  edifices  are  the  First  Baptist,  the  Third  Preshyte- 
rian,  and  also  the  English  Evangelical  Church.  Many  other  fine  stone 
churches  have  been  recently  built.  The  Bxiqiiesne  Cluh  has  a  handsome 
house  in  6th  Ave.  near  Smithfield  St.  The  spacious  building  of  the  Mer- 
cantile Library  is  in  Penn  St.  near  6th  St. ;  it  contains  19,000  vol- 
umes and  a  reading-room.  The  Pittsburg  Art  Associcdion  meets  at  the 
Pittsburg  Club  Theatre.  The  Yoimg  Men's  Christian  Association  has 
a  fine  building  corner  of  Penn  Ave.  and  '7th  St.  The  upper  rooms  are 
occupied  by  the  School  of  Besign  for  Women.  There  are  in  the  city 
two  theatres,  an  Opera-House,  an  Academy  of  Music,  and  several  public 
halls.  The  West  Pennsylvania  Exposition  Society  buildings,  with  a  main 
building  540  by  150  feet,  and  a  machinery  hall  300  by  200  feet,  were 
first  opened  in  1889.  The  Court- House,  finished  in  Eomanesque 
style,  was  erected  at  the  cost  of  about  $2,500,000.  The  main  tower  is 
320  ft.  high.  The  Jail  is  connected  by  a  stone  arched  bridge  thrown 
over  Ross  St.     It  was  one  of  Henry  H.  Richardson's  last  designs. 

The  Pittsbtirg  Female  College  (Methodist)  and  the  Pennsylvania  Fe- 
mcde  College  (Presbyterian)  are  both  flourishing  institutions.  The  High 
School  is  a  handsome  building.  Most  of  the  public-school  buildings  are 
large  and  substantial.  Among  the  principal  charitable  institutions  ai^e 
the  Western  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  a  large  building  located  on  the  side 
of  the  hill  fronting  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  with  a  department  for  the 
insane  at  Dixmont,  on  the  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  &  Chicago  R.  R. ;  the 
City  Genercd  Hospital ;  the  Homoeopathic  Hospital,  on  2d  Ave.  above 
Smithfield  St.,  an  institution  built  at  a  cost  of  $225,000,  containing 
rooms  for  patients ;  the  Mercy  Hospital,  in  Stephenson  St. ;  the  Epis- 
copal Church  Home ;  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asyhim.  The 
Convent  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy  (Webster  Ave.  cor.  of  Chatham)  is  the 
oldest  house  of  the  order  in  America. 

Birmingham  is  a  portion  of  the  city  lying  across  the  Monongahela 
from  Pittsburg  (reached  by  bridge).  An  inclined-plane  R.  R.  (fare,  6c.) 
leads  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Oliver  (250  ft.  high) ;  another  inclined  plane 
leads  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington  (370  ft.  high) ;  also  another  to 
Duquesne  Heights,  from  all  of  which  fine  views  may  be  had.  Besides 
these  there  are  three  other  inclined  railways  leading  to  other  summits  of 
the  city,  Manchester,  now  a  part  of  Allegheny  City,  is  2  miles  below 
Pittsburg,  on  the  Ohio.  Here  is  located  the  Riverside  Penitentiary ; 
and  the  Passionist  Monastery  of  St.  Paid  and  the  Franciscan  Convent 
are  near  by.  East  Libe7-ty,  a  part  of  the  city  known  as  the  East  End,  5 
miles  from  the  Court-House,  on  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  is  a  thriving 
suburb,  containing  fine  residences,  and  affording  a  delightful  drive  of 


FiOUte  50].  PHILADELPHIA   TO    PITTSBUEG.  241 

many  miles  over  fine  roads  to  the  E.  wards  of  the  city.  Two  cable  lines 
run  to  East  Liberty,  fare  5  c.  The  East  End  is  the  finest  part  of  the 
city.  Fifth  Ave.  contains  many  fine  residences.  The  city  has  acquired 
about  500  acres  of  land  for  a  public  park,  the  greater  part  being  the 
gift  of  Mrs.  Mary  E.  Schenley.  It  is  situated  about  3  miles  from  the 
Court-House,  being  beautifully  located.  At  Braddock^  on  the  Pennsyl- 
vania R.  R.,  10  miles  E.  of  the  city,  are  the  Bessemer  Steel- Works,  owned 
by  Carnegie,  Phipps  &  Co.  A  fine  Public  Library^  the  gift  of  Andrew 
Carnegie,  is  the  pi-incipal  building  in  the  place.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Monongahela  Elver  are  the  Homestead  Steel-Works,  owned  by 
the  same  firm.  This  plant  employs  many  thousands  of  hands,  and  is 
one  of  the  best-equipped  works  in  the  country,  being  well  worth  a 
visit. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Pittsburg  are  many  important  manufacturing 
works,  the  Pittsburg  Plate-Glass  Works  being  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  important,  having  works  at  Creighton  and  Tarentum,  20  miles  out 
on  the  West  Penn.  Div.,  and  also  having  large  works  at  Ford  Citv,  on 
the  Allegheny  Valley  R.  R. 

Allegheny  City  [Hotel  Federal)  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of 
the  Alleghany  River,  opposite  Pittsburg,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
9  bridges,  2  of  which  are  fine  suspension-bridges.  Its  manufacturing  in- 
terests are  large.  In  1890  the  city  had  a  population  of  105,287.  The 
City  Hall  is  on  the  square  at  the  crossing  of  Ohio  and  Federal  Sts.,  and 
opposite  it  is  a  fine  library  building,  erected  by  Andrew  Carnegie,  and 
called  "  The  Carnegie  Free  Library."  *  St-  Peter's  (R.  C.)  is  the  finest 
church  in  the  city.  Other  notable  churches  are  Trinity  (Evangelical 
Lutheran),  North  Avenue  Methodist  Episcopal^  Second  United  Presbyte- 
rian^ Sandusky  Street  Baptist^  etc.  The  *  Western  Penitentiary,  a 
large  stone  building  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  known  also  as  the  River- 
side Penitentiary^  is  nearly  completed.  Visitors  are  admitted  from  2  to 
^  p.  M,  every  day  except  Saturdays  and  Sundays.  The  Western  Theologi- 
cal Seminary  (Presbvterian)  was  established  here  in  1827.  It  is  situated 
on  one  of  the  finest  streets  in  the  city,  fronting  the  Park,  with  fine 
dwellings  for .  the  professors  on  either  side.  The  Theological  Semi- 
nary of  the  United  Presbyterian  Churchy  established  in  1826,  and  the 
Allegheny  Theological  Institute^  organized  in  1840  by  the  Synod  of 
the  Reformed  Presbyterian  Church,  are  also  located  here.  The  Western 
University^  founded  in  1819,  formerly  located  in  Pittsburg,  has  a  valu- 
able geological  and  natural-history  collection,  and  275  students.  The 
Allegheny  Observatory^  situated  on  an  elevated  site  N.  of  the  city,  is  a 
department  of  this  institution.  Among  the  principal  charitable  insti- 
tutions is  the  Allegheny  General  Hospitcd^  located  in  Stockton  Ave., 
opposite  the  parks ;  also  the  Home  for  the  Friendless^  a  building  situ- 
ated on  Washington  St.,  just  off  the  Public  Park.  The  Public  Park 
lies  around  the  center  of  the  city ;  it  contains  100  acres,  and  is  adorned 
with  several  tiny  lakelets,  numerous  fountains,  and  a  monument  to  Hum- 
boldt. On  the  lofty  crest  near  the  Alleghany,  in  the  E.  part  of  the  city, 
stands  the  *  Soldiers'  Monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the 
4,000  men  of  Allegheny  County  who  lost  their  lives  in  the  ciyil  war.  It 
16 


242  PHILADELPHIA  TO  ALBAN-y.  [Route  52. 

consists  of  a  graceful  column,  surrounded  at  the  base  with  statues  of  an 
infantry-man,  a  cavalry-man,  an  artillerist,  and  a  sailor,  and  surmounted 
by  a  bronze  female  figure  of  colossal  size.  Here  are  also  the  Hampton 
Battery  Monument^  and  a  monument  to  Alexander  Humboldt  erected  by 
the  German  residents.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  from  this  point.  Elec- 
tric-cars run  to  various  parts  of  the  city.  Fine  views  of  the  city  and 
country  may  be  had  from  the  surrounding  hills. 

51.  Philadelphia  to  Central  New  York,  Buffalo,  and 
Niagara  Falls. 

Via  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.  to  Bethlehem,  and  thence  via  Lehigh 
Valley  R.  R.  This  route  affords  a  great  variety  of  scenery,  and  enables  the 
tourist  ,to  visit  the  large  iron  and  other  industrial  works  in  the  Lehigh  Valley 
and  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the  coal  regions  in  the  State  of  Pennsyl- 
vania. 

The  Philadelphia  depot  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.  is  at 
the  cor.  of  12th  and  Market  Sts.  For  6  miles  the  road  runs  through 
the  northern  suburbs  of  the  city  and  then  enters  Montgomery  County, 
which  it  traverses  for  many  miles,  entering  then  the  rich  farming  and 
dairy  region  of  Bucks  County.  Gwynedd  (19  miles)  is  a  Welsh  village 
of  some  importance.  North  of  this  is  a  short  tunnel ;  and  after  pass- 
ing Sellersville  (32  miles)  the  railway  runs  through  the  Landis  Hills, 
sometimes  called  the  Rock  Hills,  by  a  tunnel  2,200  feet  long.  This 
divides  the  waters  of  the  Schuylkill  and  Delaware  Rivers.  From  the 
summit,  1  mile  W.  of  the  station,  a  fine  view  of  Limestone  Valley  and 
Quakertown  is  obtained.  Hellertoivn  (52  miles)  has  extensive  iron- works, 
and  in  the  vicinity  are  other  extensive  iron  and  zinc  works.  Near  here 
there  are  fine  views  of  the  hills  skirting  the  Lehigh  Valley.  Four  miles 
beyond  Hellertown  is  Bethlehem.  Here  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  is 
taken,  the  eastern  terminus  of  which  is  New  York  city,  (For  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  entire  route  beyond  Bethlehem  see  Route  45.) 

52.  Philadelphia  to  Albany,  N.  Y. 

By  the  Bethlehem  Branch  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.  to  Bethle- 
hem ;  thence  by  the  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna  Div.  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of  New 
Jersey  to  Scranton  ;  thence  by  the  Pennsylvania  Div.  of  the  Delaware  &  Hud- 
son Co.'s  R.  R.  to  Nineveh  ;  and  thence  by  the  Susquehanna  Div.  of  the  same 
road  to  Albany.  Distances  :  to  Bethlehem,  56  miles  ;  to  Mauch  Chunk,  88  ;  to 
Wilkesbarre,  1-42  ;  to  Scranton,  160  ;  to  Green  Ridge,  163  ;  to  Carbondale,  177  ; 
to  Nineveh,  231  ;  to  Albany,  .350 ;  to  Saratoga  Springs,  388.  This  is  a  popular 
route  from  Philadelphia  to  Saratoga  Springs  and  Montreal,  and  the  variety  of 
scenery  which  it  offers  makes  it  very  attractive  in  summer. 

As  far  as  Bethlehem  (56  miles)  this  route  is  over  the  Bethlehem 
Branch  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.  From  Bethlehem  to 
Scranton  the  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna  Div.  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of  New 
Jersey  runs  on  the  side  of  the  Lehigh  River  to  Scranton  {Forest 
House,  Wyoming  House),  a  flourishing  city  of '75,215  inhabitants,  occu- 
pying the  plateau  at  the  confluence  of  Roaring  Brook  and  the  Lacka- 
wanna River.     It  is  handsomely  laid  out,  with  broad,  straight  streets, 


Route  52.]  PHILADELrniA   TO   ALBANY.  243 

and  contains  mauv  fine  residences  and  public  buildings,  but  its  gen- 
eral appearance  is  somber.  Its  importance  is  due  to  its  situation  in 
the  most  northern  of  the  anthracite  basins,  and  to  its  railroad  facili- 
ties. The  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.  (Route  43)  connects 
here,  and  there  are  several  other  important  lines.  The  trade  in  min- 
ing supplies  is  extensive,  and  the  shipments  of  coal  are  immense.  Its 
iron-manufactures  are  very  important,  and  there  are  vast  blast-furnaces, 
rolling-mills,  foundries,  machine-shops,  glass-works,  silk-mills,  etc. 
Lackawanna,  Penn,  Washington,  and  Wyoming  Aves.  are  the  principal 
business  streets.  In  the  suburb  of  Dunmore  is  the  Forest  Hill  Ceme- 
tery, whence  fine  views  are  obtained.  At  Green  Ridge  (2  miles  beyond 
Scranton,  and  which  is  also  connected  with  the  center  of  the  city  by  an 
electric  railway,  with  grades  at  places  of  300  ft.  to  the  mile)  the  train 
passes  on  to  the  track  of  the  Pennsylvania  Division  of  the  Delaware 
&  Hudson  R.  R.,  and,  ascending  the  valley  of  the  Lackawanna  amid 
numerous  collieries  and  mining- villages,  in  15  miles  reaches  Carbon- 
dale,  a  city  of  10,833  inhabitants,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  anthracite- 
coal  region,  near  several  extremely  rich  coal-mines.  The  chief  object  of 
interest  here  is  the  Gravity  Railroad^  a  series  of  inclined  planes  on 
which  coal-ti^ains  are  sent  over  the  Moosic  Mountains  to  and  from 
Honesdale  (16  miles),  on  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal,  with  no  impel- 
ling force  but  gravity,  save  at  one  point.  Beyond  Carbondale  the  road 
traverses  a  mountainous,  rugged,  and  spai-sely-settled  region,  crosses  the 
Alleghanies  at  an  elevation  of  2,500  ft.,  and  descends  amid  picturesque 
scenery  to  the  valley  of  the  Susquehanna.  Xear  Jefferson  Junction  (35 
miles  from  Carbondale)  the  Erie  R.  R.  (Route  41)  is  crossed,  and  the 
Albany  train  passes  on  by  several  small  stations  to  Nineveh  (231  miles 
from  Philadelphia  and  119  from  Albany).  Here  the  Susquehanna  Div. 
of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R.  from  Binghamton  is  taken,  and  the 
train  passes  N.  E.  up  the  smiling  valley  of  the  Susquehanna  River  by 
a  number  of  pretty  villages  and  hamlets.  From  Afton^  5  miles  beyond 
Nineveh,  stages  run  to  Vcdlonia  Springs^  a  picturesque  highland  village, 
700  ft.  above  the  river,  and  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  The 
waters  are  impregnated  with  sulphur,  iron,  and  magnesia,  and  are  bene- 
ficial in  cutaneous  diseases.  At  Sidney  (247  miles)  the  New  York,  On- 
tario &  Western  R.  R.  is  intersected. 

One  mile  beyond  Colliers  (75  miles  from  Albany  and  67  from 
Binghamton)  the  Cooperstown  &  Charlotte  Yalley  R.  R.  diverges,  and 
runs  north  in  16  miles  to  Cooperstown  {Ballard^  Central^  Hotel 
Fenimore)^  a  village  of  2,657  inhabitants,  at  the  south  end  of  Otsego 
Lake.  The  beautiful  situation  of  the  village,  high  up  in  the  hills,  with 
a  bracing  atmosphere  and  delightful  scenery,  renders  it  a  charming 
summer  resort,  and  attracts  many  visitors.  Cooperstown  was  the 
home  of  J.  Fenimore  Cooper,  the  novelist,  and  his  pen  has  rendered 
the  whole  region  classic.  "  The  same  points  still  exist  which  Leather- 
Stocking  saw  ;  there  is  the  same  beauty  of  verdure  along  the  hills  ; 
and  the  sun  still  glints  as  brightly  as  then  the  ripples  of  the  clear 
water."  The  site  of  the  old  Cooper  mansion  (burned  in  1854)  is  still 
pointed  out ;  and  the  Tomb  of  Cooper  is  near  Christ  Church,  which 


244  PHILADELPHIA    TO   ALBANY.  [Route  52. 

also  contains  beautiful  memorial  windows.  The  Cooper  Monument  is 
in  Lakewood  Cemetery,  a  mile  from  the  village;  it  is  of  Italian 
marble,  25  ft.  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Leather-Stocking. 
Two  miles  from  the  village,  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake,  is  Hannah^ s 
Hill  (named  after  Cooper's  daughter),  whence  a  fine  view  is  obtained. 
On  the  E.  shore  (2  miles  from  the  village)  is  Mt.  Vision^  which  com- 
mands a  very  beautiful  view  of  the  lake  and  of  the  country  adjacent. 
*  Rum  Hill  (Y  miles  distant)  is  said  to  command  a  prospect  of  over  60 
miles.  Leather Stoclcing' 8  Cave  is  on  the  E.  shore,  \\  miles  from  the 
village ;  and  the  Leather -Stocking  Falls  (or  Panther's  Leap)  are  on  the 
same  side,  at  the  head  of  a  wild  gorge.  The  Mohegan  Glen  is  on  the 
W.  shore  (3  miles  from  the  village),  and  contains  a  series  of  small  but 
picturesque  cascades.  There  are  many  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity 
of  Cooperstown ;  and  highways  lead  to  Cherry  Valley  (13  miles),  to 
Richfield  Springs  (14  miles),  and  to  Sharon  Springs  (2r3  miles).  Otse- 
go liake  is  about  9  miles  long  and  1  to  1-J-  wide,  and  is  described  by 
Cooper  as  "  a  broad  sheet  of  water,  so  placid  and  limpid  that  it  resem- 
bles a  bed  of  the  pure  mountain  atmosphere  compressed  into  a  setting 
of  hills  and  woods.  N'othing  is  wanted  but  ruined  castles  and  recollec- 
tions, to  raise  it  to  the  level  of  the  Rhine."  The  shores  are  bold  and  di- 
versified, and  the  clear  waters  teem  with  fish.  Two  small  steamers  ply  on 
the  lake,  afEording  a  delightful  excursion,  and  connecting  at  the  upper 
end  with  stages  for  Cherry  Valley  and  Richfield  Springs.   (See  Route  43.) 


Beyond  Colliers  the  road  passes  a  number  of  small  villages,  crosses 
the  watershed  between  the  Susquehanna  and  the  Mohawk,  and  descends 
by  gentle  grades  into  the  latter  valley.  At  Cohleskill  (305  miles  from 
Philadelphia  and  45  miles  from  Albany)  a  branch  line  diverges  and 
runs  X.  W.  in  14  miles  to  Sharon  Springs,  in  a  valley  1,100  ft. 
above  the  sea-level  {Pavilion  Hotel^  Sharon  House,  and  Union  Hotel), 
which  are  visited  by  more  than  10,000  invalids  and  pleasure-seekers 
annually.  The  village  is  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  surrounded  by 
high  hills,  and  is  chiefly  noted  for  its  mineral  springs,  of  which  there 
are  four  ;  chalybeate,  magnesia,  white  sulphur,  and  blue  sulphur. 
These,  together  with  a  spring  of  pure  water,  are  near  each  other  and 
near  a  wooded  bluff  W.  of  the  village,  and  flow  into  a  small  stream 
below.  The  waters  are  pure  and  clear,  and  though  they  flow  for  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  from  their  source  with  other  currents,  they  yet  preserve 
their  own  distinct  character.  They  tumble  over  a  ledge  of  perpendicu- 
lar rocks,  with  a  descent  of  65  ft.,  in  sufficient  volume  and  force  to  turn 
a  mill.  The  Magnesia  and  White  Sulphur  Springs  closely  resemble  the 
White  Sulphur  Springs  of  Virginia.  The  waters  are  drunk  to  a  consid- 
erable extent,  especially  the  Magnesia  ;  but  the  specialty  of  the  place  is 
its  baths,  for  which  there  are  spacious  and  admirably  appointed  bath- 
houses (40c.  a  bath).  Besides  the  water-baths,  mud-baths  are  adminis- 
tered (in  which  the  patient  is  covered  with  mud  saturated  with  sulphur 
and  heated  to  about  llO"").  These  baths  are  considered  remedial  for 
rheumatism  and  kindred  ailments.     Other  baths,  prepared  by  mixing  the 


Route  52.]  PHILADELPHIA    TO    ALBANY.  245 

njagnesia-water  with  extract  of  pine  from  the  Black  Forest  of  Germany, 
are  administered  for  puhnonarv,  neuralgic,  and  paralytic  diseases. 
There  are  pleasant  drives  and  rambles  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hotels,  and 
from  the  summit  of  the  hill  over  the  village  a  beautiful  view  may  be 
obtained,  including  the  Mohawk  Yalley,  the  Adirondacks,  and  the  Green 
Mountains  of  Vermont.  Shai'on  Springs  is  connected  by  stage  (9  miles) 
with  Canajoharie,  on  the  West  Shore,  and  with  Palatine  Bridge,  on  the 
Xew  York  Central  R.  Rs.  (see  Route  40). 

Cherry  Valley,  a  pretty  little  village  at  the  head  of  Cherry  Yal- 
ley Creek,  is  9  miles  from  Sharon  Springs  by  railway  and  7  miles  by 
road.  It  is  a  place  of  great  interest  as  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most 
atrocious  massacres  that  have  ever  disgraced  any  war.  Here,  in 
Aug-ust,  1*778,  the  Tories  and  Indians  fell  upon  the  unprotected  set- 
tlers, and,  without  making  any  distinction  of  age  or  sex,  either  killed 
or  took  captive  the  entire  population.  A  monument  now  marks  the 
site  of  the  old  fort  and  the  grave  of  the  slaughtered  settlers.  The 
valley  is  a  popular  but  not  fashionable  summer  resort,  and  besides 
the  hotels  there  are  numerous  houses  at  which  board  may  be  obtained 
at  from  $7  to  $12  a  week.  In  the  village  is  a  young  ladies'  academy, 
the  first  principal  of  which  was  the  Rev.  Solomon  Spaulding,  whose  fan- 
ciful antiquarian  novel,  written  solely  for  his  own  amusement,  was  made 
the  basis  of  the  "  Book  of  Mormon."  Near  the  center  of  the  township 
is  Mt.  Independence^  a  rocky  eminence  rising  2,000  ft.  above  the  sea. 
On  a  small  creek  near  by  (2  miles  from  the  village)  are  the  Teka- 
haravKi  Falls,  a  picturesque  cascade  160  ft.  high.  In  the  vicinity  of 
these  falls  (1|-  mile  from  the  village)  are  the  Cherry  Valley  ]Wnte  Sid- 
phur  Springs,  which  are  becoming  a  popular  resort.  In  the  village  of 
Salt  Springsville,  near  by,  are  a  number  of  salt-springs ;  and  there  are 
also  chalybeate  and  magnesia  waters  in  the  vicinity.  Cherry  Yalley  is 
famous  for  the  coolness,  salubrity,  and  tonic  effect  of  its  summer  climate. 


On  the  main  line,  6  miles  beyond  Cobleskill  and  39  miles  from 
Albany,  is  Howe's  Cave  {Pavilion  Hotel),  the  most  remarkable  cav- 
ern known,  after  the  Luray  Cavern  of  Yirginia  and  great  Mammoth  Cave 
of  Kentucky.  It  was  discovered  in  1842  by  Lester  Howe,  who  is  said 
to  have  penetrated  to  a  distance  of  12  miles,  but  the  farthest  point 
usually  visited  is  about  4  miles  from  the  entrance.  The  entrance  is 
near  the  hotel  (fee,  including  guide,  $1.50).  A  stairway  descends  from 
the  entrance  to  the  Reception  Room,  after  which  follow  in  succession 
Washington  Hall,  the  Bridal  Chamber,  the  Chapel,  Harlequin  Tunnel, 
Cataract  Hall,  Ghost  Room  or  Haunted  Castle,  and  Music  Hall.  Stygi- 
an Lake  is  crossed  in  a  boat,  and  beyond  are  Plymouth  Rock,  J)eY- 
il's  Gateway,  Museum,  Geological  Rooms,  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,  Grant's 
Study,  Pirate's  Cave,  Rocky  Mts.,  Yalley  of  Jehoshaphat,  Winding  Way, 
and  Rotunda.  As  far  as  the  lake  the  cave  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  beau- 
tiful stalactites  and  stalagmites  are  everywhere  seen.  There  are  other 
remarkable  caves  in  this  vicinity,  the  most  noteworthy  of  which  is  BalVs 
Cave,  4  miles  E.  of  Schoharie. 


246  PHILADELPHIA  TO   ERIE.  [Route  53. 

Three  miles  beyond  Howe's  Cave  is  Central  Bridge.,  whence  a  branch 
line  runs  in  5  miles  to  the  pretty  hill-village  of  Schoharie.,  then  6  miles 
farther  to  Middleburg ;  and  9  miles  farther  is  Quaker  Street,  where 
through  passengers  for  Saratoga  and  the  north  who  wish  to  save  the 
detour  by  Albany  take  a  branch  road  which  runs  N.  E.  via  Schenectady 
to  Saratoga  Springs  in  3Y  miles.  Between  Quaker  Street  and  Al- 
bany the  train  runs  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  way  in  sight  of 
the  far-viewing  Helderberg  Mountains,  passing  through  Altamord^  1*7 
miles  from  Albany  on  the  slope  of  the  mountains,  where  superb  views 
are  to  be  had  (the  Kushaqua) ;  then,  descending  the  picturesque  valley  of 
Norman's  Kill,  passes  5  small  stations,  it  reaches  Albany  (350  miles), 
where  connection  is  made  with  railroads  leading  in  all  directions. 

53.  Philadelphia  to  Erie. 

By  the  Philadelphia  &  Erie  Division  of  the  Pennsylvania  E.  R.  Distances: 
to  Harrisburg,  103  miles  :  to  Sunbiiry,  159  ;  to  Williamsport,  199  ;  to  Lock 
Haven,  223  ;  to  Emporium,  297  ;  to  Corry,  409  ;  to  Erie,  446.  Two  through 
trains  daily  run  on  this  line,  making  the  journey  in  24  hours,  and  this  is  a  fa 
vorite  route  from  Philadelphia  to  Western  New  York  and  the  Oil  Regions  of 
Pennsylvania. 

From  Philadelphia  to  Harrisburg  this  route  follows  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  and  has  been  described  in  Route  50.  From  Harrisburg  to  Sunbury 
(57  miles)  it  follows  the  Northei-n  Central  R.  R.,  and  this  section  is  de- 
scribed in  Route  59.  Simhnry  (159  miles)  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna  River,  at  the  intersection  of  the  Philadel- 
phia &:  Erie  and  Northern  Central  Railways.  The  former  road  is  taken 
here,  and  the  train  passes  in  2  miles  to  the  attractive  village  of  Northum- 
berland, built  upon  a  point  of  land  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  N. 
and  W.  branches  of  the  Susquehanna.  The  Bloomsburg  Div.  of  the  Dela- 
ware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.  connects  here,  and  by  means  of  it  a 
pleasant  excursion  can  be  made  to  the  Wyoming  Valley  (Route  45). 
Milton  (lYl  miles)  is  a  thriving  village  at  the  junction  of  the  present 
route  with  the  Catawissa  Div.  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R. 
(Route  56).  About  10  miles  beyond  Milton  the  two  railroads  cross  each 
other  and  run  on  nearly  parallel  lines  to  Williamsport.  The  scenery 
along  this  portion  of  the  road  is  strikingly  picturesque.  Williamsport 
{Hepburn  House.,  Park  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  27,132  inhabitants,  pictui^- 
esquely  situated  on  the  W.  Br-anch  of  the  Susquehanna,  surrounded  by 
high  hills  and  much  fine  scenery.  The  streets  are  wide  and  straight, 
lighted  with  gas,  and  traversed  by  street-cars.  The  business  quarter  is 
substantially  built,  and  numerous  handsome  residences  and  gardens  make 
the  place  attractive.  The  suburbs  of  Rocktown  and  Duboistown  lie 
across  the  river  under  the  Bald  Eagle  Mts.,  and  are  connected  with  the 
city  by  a  graceful  suspension  bridge.  The  county  buildings  are  handsome 
structures,  and  Trinity  Church  is  a  very  fine  edifice.  The  Dickinson 
Seminary.,  with  spacious  buildings  in  Academy  St.,  is  a  noted  educational 
institution.  Williamsport  owes  its  prosperity  to  the  lumber  business,  of 
which  it  is  a  leading  mart.  The  great  Susquehanna  Boom  extends  from 
3  to  4  miles  up  the  river,  has  a  capacity  of  300,000,000  ft.  of  lumber, 


Honte  5S.]  PHILADELPHIA    TO    ERIE.  2J:7 

and  in  spring  is  filled  with  pine  and  hemlock  logs.  The  annual  ship- 
ments of  lumber  average  250,000,000  ft.,  and  there  are  vast  saw-mills, 
planing-mills,  machine-shops,  etc. 

Leaving  Williamsport,  the  train  crosses  in  succession  the  Lycoming 
Creek  and  the  W.  Branch,  and  still  following  the  river  passes  in  25  miles 
to  "Lock  Haven  {Fallon  House),  a  city  of  7,358  inhabitants,  also  famous 
as  a  lumber-mart.  Immense  numbers  of  logs  are  annually  received  in  the 
boom  here,  and  furnish  employment  to  extensive  saw-mills.  The  charm- 
ing scenery  about  Lock  Haven,  especially  that  of  the  adjacent  Bald 
Eagle  Valley,  attracts  many  summer  visitors.  Beyond  Lock  Haven  the 
road  runs  for  28  miles  through  wild  scenery  to  Renovo  {Renovo  Hotel)^ 
a  creation  of  the  railroad,  which  here  has  extensive  construction-shops 
and  foundries.  The  village  lies  in  a  beautiful,  mountain-surrounded 
valley,  and  the  loveliness  of  the  scenery  combined  with  the  excellent 
trout-fishing  in  the  adjacent  streams  has  made  it  a  popular  summer 
resoii;.  A  few  miles  beyond  Renovo  the  railroad  leaves  the  Susquehanna 
and  for  the  next  50  miles  traverses  what,  until  its  construction,  was  an 
unknown  land  even  to  its  nearest  neighbors — a  favorite  refuge  of  out- 
lawed criminals.  It  is  the  section  of  country  known  as  the  Great  Horse- 
shoe of  the  Alleghanies,  which  encompassed  and  isolated  it,  and  it  is  still 
a  desolate  wilderness  save  whei'e  a  few  straggling  settlements  have 
sprung  up  a.long  the  railway.  Cameron  (292  miles)  is  a  small  village 
near  some  rich  veins  of  bituminous  coal.  Five  miles  beyond  is  I]in- 
porium,  a  lumbering  town  of  2,147  population,  on  the  Driftwater,  a 
tributary  of  the  Susquehanna,  built  in  a  valley,  the  sides  of  which  rise 
abruptly  to  the  height  of  700  to  1,000  ft.  Valuable  salt-springs  have 
been  discovered  in  the  vicinity,  and  it  is  expected  that  the  manufacture 
of  salt  will  prove  profitable.  At  Emporium  the  Western  New  York  & 
Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (Route  54)  diverges.  Twenty-one  miles  beyond  Em- 
porium is  the  flourishing  village  of  St.  Mary's,  surrounded  by  numer- 
ous veins  of  the  richest  bituminous  coal,  and  near  deposits  of  iron-ore  and 
fire-clay,  with  abundance  of  timber  at  hand.  There  are  2  religious  houses 
here :  St.  Mary's  Convent  of  Benedictine  Nuns  and  St.  Mary's  Priory,  a 
Benedictine  monastery.  The  convent  is  the  oldest  of  the  order  in  the 
United  States  and  is  called  the  "  Mother  House."  Wilcox  (343  miles)  is 
noted  as  the  site  of  one  of  the  largest  tanneries  in  the  world ;  and  Kane 
(352  miles)  is  where  the  road  leaves  the  Wild-cat  Country,  or  "  unknown 
land."  It  is  situated  on  the  Big  Level,  a  narrow  plateau  which  forms 
the  boundary  from  N.  to  S.  of  the  great  coal  and  oil  region  of  North- 
western Pennsylvania,  and  is  the  summit  whence  trains  descend  by  heavy 
grades  to  the  level  of  Lake  Erie.  Warren  (381  miles)  is  an  attractive 
town  of  4,322  inhabit;  nts,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Conewango  and  the 
Alleghany  River,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  latter.  It  is  the  site 
of  extensive  tanneries,  has  an  abundance  of  light  sandstone  for  building 
purposes,  and  lies  between  the  coal  and  iron  and  the  oil  regions  of  Penn- 
sylvania. The  Dunkirk,  Alleghany  Valley  &  Pittsburg  R.  R.  connects 
at  Irvineton  (396  miles),  where  also  the  Rochester  Div,  of  the  Western, 
New  York  &  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  comes  in  from  the  Oil  Regions  (see 
Route  57).     Corry  (409  miles)  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Philadelphia  & 


248  PHILADELPHIA  TO  ERIE.  [Route  53. 

Erie  and  the  New  York,  Lake  Erie  k  Western  Railways.  It  came  into 
existence  as  a  result  of  the  discovery  of  oil,  and  prior  to  June,  1861, 
its  site  was  covered  with  forest.  The  first  house  was  erected  in  August, 
1861 ;  the  great  Downer  Oil  Works  were  erected  shortly  afterward,  and 
the  place  has  now  a  population  of  5,6'7'7,  with  8  churches,  2  banks,  sev- 
eral good  hotels,  and  2  daily  papers.  Beyond  Corry  are  Union  (420 
miles)  and  Waterford  (428  miles),  and  the  road  traverses  a  pleasant 
farming  country  to  its  terminus  at  Erie  (446  miles  from  Philadelphia). 

Erie  {Ellsioorth  House,  New  Moore  House,  and  Reed  House)  is  a 
city  and  port  of  entry  on  Lake  Erie,  with  a  population  of  40,634,  a 
flourishing  commerce,  and  extensive  manufactures.  It  stands  upon 
a  bluff  commanding  a  fine  view,  and  is  laid  out  with  broad  streets  cross- 
ing each  other  at  right  angles.  The  Park  is  a  finely  shaded  inclosure 
in  the  center  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  handsome  buildings,  and  inter- 
sected by  State  St.,  which  is  the  principal  business  thoroughfare.  In 
the  Park  are  a  Soldiers''  Monument,  with  2  bronze  statues  of  heroic  size, 
and  2  fountains ;  and  near  by  is  the  Court-House,  a  building  in  the  clas- 
sic style,  and  the  City  Hcdl,  in  the  West  Park.  The  Park  Opera-House 
is  a  handsome  edifice,  and  the  Custom-House  a  white-marble  building  near 
the  water.  The  Pennsylvania  Soldiers''  and  Sailors''  Home  is  situated 
on  Garrison  Hill.  St.  Vincent  Hospital  (Catholic)  and  the  Hamot  Hos- 
pital and  Home  for  the  Friendless  (Protestant)  are  flourishing  institu- 
tions. The  Union  Depot  is  of  brick,  in  the  Romanesque  style,  480  ft. 
long,  88  ft.  wide,  and  2  stories  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  cupola  40 
ft.  high.  The  city  has  28  churches,  16  public  schools,  a  public  library 
of  6,000  volumes,  3  daily  and  1 1  weekly  newspapers.  It  is  the  station 
and  winter-quarters  of  the  U.  S.  Steamer  Michigan,  the  only  U.  S.  naval 
vessel  on  the  chain  of  Great  Lakes.  A  Government  building  for  the  F.  S. 
Court,  Post-Ofiice,  etc.,  is  being  erected  at  an  expense  of  $150,000.  The 
M'ie  Cemetery,  in  Chestnut  St.,  comprises  75  acres  beautifully  laid  out 
with  walks  and  drives,  and  adorned  with  trees,  flowers,  and  shrubbery. 
The  harbor  is  the  best  on  the  Lakes,  being  4^  miles  long,  from  1^  to  2 
miles  wide,  and  9  to  26  ft.  deep,  and  is  inclosed  by  Presque  Isle,  lying  in 
front  of  the  city.  The  harbor  is  protected  by  3  lighthouses,  2  at  the 
entrance  and  1  on  Presque  Isle.  The  Pennsylvania  Railway  has  docks 
furnished  with  railroad  tracks,  so  that  the  transfer  of  merchandise  takes 
place  directly  betAveen  the  vessels  and  the  cars.  The  principal  articles 
of  shipment  are  lumber,  coal,  iron-ore,  fish,  and  grain.  The  leading  manu- 
factures are  of  iron-ware,  machinery,  cars,  leather,  brass,  furnitui-e,  organs, 
boots,  shoes,  etc.  It  was  from  Ei'ie  that  Perry's  fleet  sailed  on  the  occa- 
sion of  his  memorable  victory,  and  thither  he  brought  his  prizes.  Several 
of  his  ships  were  sunk  in  Misery  Bay,  and  the  hull  of  the  Niagai^a  is  still 
visible  in  fair  weather.  At  Erie  the  traveler  can  take  the  Lake  Shore  & 
Michigan  Southern  R.  R.,  or  the  New  York,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R., 
and  go  E.  to  Buffalo  (88  miles),  or  W.  to  Chicago  (451  miles);  or  by  the 
Erie  &  Pittsburg  R.  R.  S.  to  Pittsburg  (151  miles),  and  the  Philadelphia 
&  Erie  R.  R.  of  the  Pennsylvania  System  S.  E.  to  Philadelphia  (441 
miles) ;  or,  he  can  take  one  of  the  steamers  of  the  Erie  &  Western  Tran- 
sit Co.  for  Buffalo,  Cleveland,  Detroit,  and  all  Lake  Superior  ports. 


Boute  55. ]        PHILADELPHIA   TO   LAKE   OKTARIO.  249 

54.  Philadelphia  to  BuiFalo. 

By  the  Pennsylvania  K.  R.  to  Harrisburg  ;  thence  by  the  Northern  Central 
R.  R.  to  Sunbury  ;  thence  by  the  Philadelphia  &  Erie  Div.  of  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  to  Emporium  :  and  thence  by  the  Western  New  York  &  Pennsylvania  R. 
R.  to  Buffalo.  Distances  ;  to  Harrisburg,  105  miles  ;  to  Sunbury,  159  ;  to  Will- 
iamsport,  199  ;  to  Emporium,  297  ;  to  Bvifl'alo,  418.  This  is  the  shortest  route 
between  Philadelphia  and  Western  New  York. 

As  far  as  Emporium  (297  miles)  this  route  is  identical  with  the 
preceding  one.  At  Emporium  the  Western  New  York  &  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  is  taken,  and  the  train  runs  N.  through  a  sparsely-settled  forest- 
region  to  Port  Alleghany  (322  miles),  a  small  village  on  the  Alleghany 
River.  Beyond  Port  Alleghany  the  river  is  followed  amid  rugged  scenery 
to  Olean  (348  miles),  where  the  Erie  R.  R.  (Route  41)  is  crossed.  Olean 
is  an  important  shipping-station  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Alle- 
ghany River.  Twelve  miles  beyond  Olean  is  I^chua^  E.  of  which  is  the 
Oil  Creek  Reservation  of  the  Seneca  Indians.  Near  Franklinville  (369 
miles)  is  the  pretty  Lime  Lake,  which  may  be  seen  from  the  cars  on  the 
left ;  and  during  the  remaining  49  miles  the  road  traverses  a  pleasant 
agricultural  district. 

66.  Philadelphia  to  Lake  Ontario. 

By  the  New  York  Div.  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  to  Trenton  ;  thence  by  the 
Belvidere  Div.  to  Manunka  Chunk  ;  and  thence  by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna 
&  Western  R.  R.  to  Oswego.  Distances  :  to  Trenton,  34  miles  ;  to  Manunka 
Chunk.  102 :  to  Delaware  Water-Gap,  11.3  :  to  Scranton,  169  ;  to  Binghamton, 
2.32  ;  to  Syracuse,  311 ;  to  Oswego,  .346  ;  to  Buffalo,  434  ;  to  Niagara  Palls,  456. 
This  is  a  direct  route  from  Philadelphia  to  the  Delaware  Water-Gap,  Schooley's 
Mt.,  Central  and  Western  New  York,  Buffalo,  and  Niagara  Falls.  There  is  only 
one  change  of  cars  between  Philadelphia  and  Oswego,  at  Manunka  Chunk. 

From  Philadelphia  to  Trenton  (34  miles)  this  route  is  described  in 
Route  3  a.  At  Trenton  the  Belvidei-e  Division  is  taken,  and  the  train 
follows  the  N.  bank  of  the  Delaware  River  to  Manunka  Chunk  amid 
varied  and  picturesc|ue  scenery.  Four  miles  beyond  Trenton  the  New 
Jersey  Lunatic  Asylum  is  passed,  and  5  miles  farther  is  Washington's 
Ci'ossing,  where  General  Washington  made  the  celebrated  passage  of 
the  Delaware,  when  he  surprised  and  defeated  the  Hessians  at  Trenton 
(Dec.  26,  lYVe).  Lamhertville  (50  miles)  is  a  large  manufacturing  village 
of  4,142  inhabitants,  with  a  fine  water-power  derived  from  a  feeder  of 
the  Delaware  &  Raritan  Canal.  Beyond  Lambertville  the  scenery  is  very 
pleasing,  and  8  small  stations  are  passed  before  reaching  PhiUipshurg 
(85  miles),  where  connections  are  made  with  the  Delaware,  Lacka- 
wanna &  Western  R.  R..  For  description  of  Phillipsburg,  see  Route  45. 
Fourteen  miles  beyond  Phillipsburg  is  Belvidere  {American  House), 
a  pretty  village  situated  on  both  sides  of  Request  Creek,  where  it  emp- 
ties into  the  Delaware.  It  has  a  fine  water-power,  with  considerable 
manufactures,  and  a  population  of  1,768.  Manunka  Chunk  (102 
miles)  is  the  junction  with  the  main  line  of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  & 
Western  R.  R.,  and  passengers  for  the  north  here  change  cars.     (The 


250  PHILADELPHIA   TO   LAKE    ONTARIO.        [Route  55. 

route  from  New  York  to  Manimka  Chunk  over  this  road  is  described  in 
Eoute  43.)  Delaioare  (105  miles)  is  the  last  station  in  New  Jersey,  the 
train  crossing  the  Delaware  into  Pennsylvania  on  a  long  bridge.  All 
trains  stop  at  Delaware  for  refreshments.  Eight  miles  beyond  Delaware 
station  is  the  celebrated  Delaware  Water-Gap,  for  a  description 
of  which,  see  Eonte  43,  p.  195.  The  first  station  beyond  the  Gap  is 
Stroudshurg  (117  miles).  At  Spragueville  (121  miles)  the  ascent  of  the 
Pocono  Mt.  begins;  and  the  road,  after  passing  Oakland  (129  miles), 
Tohyhanna  (143  miles),  and  A/oscoic  (156  miles),  reaches  Scranton  (see 
Route  52).  Beyond  Scranton  the  train  runs  N.  to  Great  Bend  (212 
miles)  on  the  Erie  R.  R.  and  the  Susquehanna  River,  and  thence  to 
Binghamton  (see  Route  41). 

Leaving  Binghamton,  the  train  follows  the  Chenango  River  for  10 
or  12  miles,  then  ascends  the  Tioughnioga  River,  and  then  traverses  a 
rich  farming  region  to  Syracuse  on  the  Syracuse  and  Binghamton  Div. 
There  are  numerous  villages  en  route^  but  the  only  ones  requiring  men- 
tion are  Cortland  (275  miles),  a  pretty  place  of  8,590  inhabitants,  seat  of 
a  State  Normal  School ;  and  Homer  (278  miles),  a  prosperous  village, 
near  the  Little  York  Lakes.  Syracuse  (311  miles)  has  been  already 
sufficiently  described  in  Route  40.  Beyond  Syracuse  the  road  skirts  the 
W.  shore  of  Onondaga  Lake,  and  soon  reaches  Oswego  (Boolittle  House, 
Lake  Shore  Hotel).  Oswego  is  the  largest  and  handsomest  city  on 
Lake  Ontario,  with  a  population  in  1890  of  21,842,  and  extensive  com- 
merce and  manufactures.  Immense  quantities  of  grain  and  lumber  are 
received  and  shipped  here,  and,  with  the  exception  of  Rochester,  more 
flour  is  made  here  than  in  any  other  city  in  the  State.  Kingsford''s  Os- 
v:ego  Starch  Factory  is  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  and 
there  are  important  foundries,  iron-works,  knitting-factories,  box-shook 
manufactories,  malt-houses,  etc.  The  city  is  divided  by  the  Oswego 
River,  which  is  spanned  by  3  iron  drawbridges.  The  streets  are  regu- 
larly laid  out  with  a  width  of  100  ft.,  and  contain  many  fine  public  and 
commercial  buildings  and  private  residences.  There  are  two  public 
parks,  one  on  each  side  of  the  river,  which,  as  well  as  the  residence- 
streets,  are  beautifully  shaded.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  the 
Custom-Honse  and  Post-Office,  of  Cleveland  limestone,  costing  Si 20,000  ; 
the  City  Hall  and  the  County  Court-House,  of  Onondaga  limestone;  the 
State  Armory,  of  brick,  with  stone  and  iron  facings ;  and  the  City  Li- 
brary, costing  $30,000  and  containing  12,000  volumes.  There  are  also 
several  handsome  school-buildings,  and  2  public  halls.  The  Deep  Rock 
Spring  (in  First  St.,  W.),  discovered  in  1865,  has  attained  a  wide  celeb- 
rity, and  the  spacious  JDoolittle  House  has  been  erected  over  it  to  accom- 
modate invahds  and  others.  The  naturally  good  harbor  of  Oswego  has 
been  artificially  improved,  and  now  has  3  miles  of  wharfage.  It  is  de- 
fended by  Fort  Ontario,  a  strong  work  on  the  E.  shore  (open  to  visitors). 
Oswego  is  the  terminus  of  the  New  York,  Ontario  &  Western  R.  R.  and 
of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  R.  R.  It  is  also  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  on  which  road 
it  is  located  about  midway  between  the  Thousand  Isles  and  Niagara 
Falls. 


Route  56.]  PHILADELPHIA    TO    READING.  251 

56.  Philadelphia  to  Reading,  Pottsville,  and 
Williamsport. 

Bv  the  main  liue  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.  and  the  Catawissa 
Div. "  Distances  :  to  Reading.  58  miles  ;  to  Port  Clinton,  78  ;  to  Pottsville,  9.S  : 
to  Tamaqua,  98  ;  to  Williamsport,  199.  The  Phila.  &  Reading  R.  R.  connects 
the  great  anthracite  coal-fields  with  tide-water.  The  road  was  finished  in  1842 
at  a  cost  of  over  .§16,000,000.  It  traverses  the  valley  of  the  Schnylkill  River  a 
distance  of  .58  miles  to  Reading,  and  thence  .35  miles  to  Pottsville.  In  1886  the 
Pennsylvania  R.  R.  was  opened  from  Philadelphia  to  Reading  and  Pottsville. 

The  passenger  station  in  Philadelphia  is  at  the  cor.  of  12th  and 
Market  8ts.,  and,  leaving'  the  city,  the  fine  stone  bridge  over  the 
Schuylkill  is  crossed  in  full  view  of  Fairmount  Park,  Laurel  Hill,  and 
other  objects  of  interest  mentioned  in  our  description  of  Philadel- 
phia. The  Schuylkill  River  is  now  followed,  and  in  17  miles  the 
train  reaches  Bridgeport,  opposite  which  is  Norristown  {Montgomery 
House),  a  handsomely  built  town  of  19, '791  inhabitants,  with  a  fine 
marble  Court-House,  several  handsome  school-buildings,  and  important 
manufactures.  The  Chester  Valley  Branch  runs  in  22  miles  from  Bridge- 
port to  Downingtown  on  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (Route  50).  Valley 
Forge  (23  miles)  is  memorable  as  the  headquarters  of  Gen.  Washington 
and  the  American  army  during  the  dismal  winter  of  1777.  The  build- 
ing occupied  by  Washington  is  still  standing  near  the  railroad,  whence 
it  can  be  seen.  Phoenixville  (28  miles)  is  a  flourishing  town  of  8,514 
inhabitants,  noted  for  its  rolling-mills  and  furnaces.  The  Phoenix  Iron- 
Works  are  among  the  largest  in  America,  and  it  was  here  that  the  iron 
dome  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington  was  made.  Just  beyond  Phoenix- 
A'ille  the  train  traverses  a  tunnel  2,000  ft.  long,  and  passes  in  12  miles 
to  Pottstovm,  a  pretty  tree-embowered  village  of  8,514  inhabitants,  sur- 
rounded by  charming  scenery.  The  railroad  passes  through  one  of  its 
streets  and  crosses  the  Manatawuy  Creek  on  a  lattice  bridge  1,071  ft.  long. 
Reading  (American,  Highland,  Mansion  House)  is  the  third  city  of 
Pennsylvania  in  manufactures  and  the  fifth  in  population,  which  in  1890 
was  58,661.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  elevated  and  ascending  plain, 
backed  on  the  E.  by  Penn's  Mt.  and  on  the  S.  by  the  Neversink  Mt., 
from  both  of  which  flow  streams  of  pure  water,  abundantly  supplying 
the  city.  The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  in  the  center 
of  the  city  is  Penn  Square,  on  which  are  the  chief  hotels  and  stores. 
The  Court-House,  on  N.  6th  St.,  is  a  very  handsome  edifice  with  a  fine 
portico  supported  by  6  columns  of  red  sandstone.  The  City  Hall  is  at  the 
cor.  of  Franklin  and  S.  5th  Sts.,  and  near  by  is  a  public  library  with  6,500 
volumes.  The  County  Prison  is  a  substantial  structure  in  Penn  St. ;  and 
the  Grand  Opera-House  and  the  Academy  of  3fusic  are  fine  buildings. 
Of  the  31  churches  the  most  noteworthy  are  Trinity  (English  Lutheran), 
an  antique  building  with  a  spire  210  ft.  high,  and  Christ  (Episcopal),  an 
imposing  Gothic  edifice  of  red  sandstone  in  N.  5th  St.,  with  a  spire  202 
ft.  high.  Reading  is  the  seat  of  the  Diocesan  (EpAscopal)  College,  the 
Stewart  Academy,  the  Reading  Academy,  and  numerous  schools.  The 
inhabitants  of  this  district  are  chiefly  of  German  origin,  and  a  dialect  of 


252  PHILADELPHIA   TO   READING.  [Route  56. 

German,  known  as  Pennsylvania  Dutch,  still  prevails  to  some  extent. 
The  city  is  especially  noted  for  its  iron  manufactures.  The  shops  of 
the  Phila.  &  Reading  K.  R.  employ  2,800  men.  The  principal  places  of 
interest  in  the  vicinity  of  Reading  are  the  Mineral  Spring^  l-J  mile  E. ; 
the  park,  Penn's  Commons^  Mt.  Penn  ;  the  Mt.  Penn  Gravity  R.  R., 
Neversink  R.  R.  (electric),  Inclined  Plane  Gravity  R.  R.,  Antietam  Lake^ 
and  White  Spot,  on  Penn's  Mt.,  1,000  ft.  above  the  river,  famed  for  its 
view.  Nine  miles  from  Reading,  on  the  Lebanon  Valley  Branch,  is  the 
celebrated  Water-Cure  Home  at  Wernersville  ;  and  54  miles  on  the  same 
line  is  Harrisburg,  where  connection  is  made  for  Carlisle,  Pa.,  and  for 
Gettysburg,  the  scene  of  the  greatest  battle  of  modern  times. 

Beyond  Reading  the  road  still  follows  the  Schuylkill,  and  in  20  miles 
reaches  Port  Clinton  (78  miles),  a  pleasant  place  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Little  Schuylkill.  Here  the  Little  Schuylkill  Branch  of  the  Reading  R.  R. 
connects.  From  Port  Clinton  the  Pottsville  trains  pass  on  by  Auburn 
(83  miles)  and  Schuylkill  Haven  (89  miles)  to  Pottsville,  the  terminus 
of  the  Phila.  &  Reading  main  line.  Pottsville  is  situated  upon  the  edge 
of  the  great  Schu3dkill  coal-basin,  in  the  gap  by  which  the  river  breaks 
through  Sharp's  Mt.  The  annual  yield  of  the  Schuylkill  coal-fields  is 
about  8,000,000  tons,  and  this  enormous  product  is  conveyed  to  market 
by  the  Reading  R.  R.  and  the  Schuylkill  Canal.  The  city  dates  from 
1825,  and  in  1890  had  a  population  of  14,1 17.  The  chief  public  build- 
ings are  the  Court-House,  Jail,  Town-Hall,  Union  Hall,  and  Opera-House. 
The  coal-traffic  is  the  principal  source  of  the  city's  prosperity,  but  there 
are  also  extensive  foundries,  rolling-mills,  and  machine-shops.  The 
great  collieries  lie  to  the  N.  and  N.  E.,  and  are  reached  by  numerous 
branch  roads  which  converge  upon  Pottsville. 

At  Pottsville  the  through  trains  for  Williamsport  take  the  Schuyl- 
kill Valley  Branch  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.,  which  trav- 
erses a  wild  and  desolate  region  for  twenty  miles  to  Tamaqua  (98 
miles),  a  prosperous  town  of  6,054  inhabitants,  attractively  situated  on 
the  Little  Schuylkill,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  coal-region,  from  which 
it  draws  a  large  trade.  Beyond  Tamaqua  the  train  traverses  for  fifty 
miles  a  rugged  and  mountainous  region  which  is  fairly  gridironed  with 
the  numerous  intersecting  branches  of  the  great  coal  roads.  The  scenery 
of  this  section  of  the  route  is  varied  and  impressive,  and  the  Catawissa 
Valley,  which  is  traversed  for  30  miles,  offers  scenes  of  singular  beauty. 
CataAvissa  is  145  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  is  picturesquely  situ- 
ated at  the  confluence  of  the  Catawissa  Creek  and  the  Susquehanna 
River.  Nine  miles  be3^ond  is  Danville,  a  flourishing  manufacturing 
town  of  7,998  inhabitants.  The  Montour  Iron-Works  here  make  vast 
quantities  of  railroad  iron,  md  on  a  hill  near  by  is  a  State  Insane  Asy- 
lum with  extensive  buildings.  Milton  (171  miles)  is  the  junction  of  the 
present  route  with  the  Philadelphia  &  Erie  R.  R.,  which  is  described  in 
Route  53. 


Route  57.]        PITTSBURG    TO    THE    OIL    REGIONS.  253 

57.  Pittsburg  to  Titusville  and  Buffalo.     The  Pennsyl- 
vania Oil  Regions. 

By  the  Allesrhany  Valley  R.  R.  and  Pittsburg  Div.  of  the  Western  New 
York  &  Pennsylvania  R.  R."  Distances  :  to  Red  Bank,  64  miles  ;  to  Oil  City, 
182  ;  to  Titusville,  150  ;  to  Corry,  177  ;  to  Chautauqua  Lake,  207;  to  BujBfalo, 
269,  Through  trains  from  Pittsburg  to  Buffalo  via  Oil  City  and  Brocton  ac- 
complish the  distance  in  12  hours. 

Pittsburg  has  been  described,  and  the  route  thither  from  Phila- 
delphia, in  Route  50.  Leaving  the  Union  Depot,  the  train  passes  for 
several  miles  among  smoke-discolored  factories  and  iron-works,  and  then 
reaches  the  Alleghany  River,  whose  banks  are  followed  for  more  than 
100  miles  amid  picturesque  and  varied  scenery.  Kittaning  (46  miles) 
is  a  flourishing  manufacturing  borough  of  3,095  inhabitants,  in  themids-t 
of  a  rich  coal-region,  which  is  extensively  worked.  From  Red  Bank  (64 
miles)  the  Low  Grade  Division  of  the  Alleghany  Valley  R.  R.  runs  in 
110  miles  to  Driftwood  on  the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R.  (Route  53),  passing 
the  remote  forest-town  of  Rrookville,  which  offers  great  attractions  to 
the  sportsman.  Brady  (69  miles),  Parker  (83  miles),  Emlenton  (89 
miles),  and  Kennerdell  (108  miles)  are  small  stations.  All  along  this 
section  of  the  route  the  apparatus  of  oil-wells,  some  in  operation  and 
others  deserted,  may  be  seen  from  the  cars.  Sixteen  miles  beyond  Ken- 
nerdell is  Franklin,  a  city  of  6,221  inhabitants,  built  on  the  site  of 
the  old  French  Fort  Venango^  at  the  confluence  of  French  Creek  and 
the  Alleghany  River.  Several  railroads  connect  here.  Nine  miles  beyond 
Franklin  is  Oil  City  {Arlington^  Exchange,  and  National),  the  center 
and  headquarters  of  the  Oil  Region.  It  is  situated  on  the  Alleghany 
River  at  the  mouth  of  Oil  Creek,  the  city  being  built  along  a  narrow 
shelf  between  the  river  and  a  high  blufi:'  which  is  crowned  with  resi- 
dences. Oil  City  was  founded  in  1860,  incorporated  in  18*71,  and  in  1890 
had  a  population  of  10,932.  It  is  not  particularly  attractive  to  the 
eye,  but  it  will  afford  the  visitor  in  a  few  short  rambles  the  best  oppor- 
tunity of  witnessing  the  various  operations  of  obtaining,  refining,  barrel- 
ing, gauging,  and  shipping  the  precious  petroleum.  The  wells  in  the 
vicinity  yield  600  barrels  daily,  and  about  2,000,000  barrels  are  annually 
sent  thence  to  market.  The  great  iron  tanks  for  storing  the  oil  are 
worth  a  visit. 

From  Oil  City  the  Pittsburg  Div.  of  the  Western  New  York  &  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  follows  the  Alleghany  River  to  Irmnefon  (.50  miles),  where  the  Philadelphia 
&  Erie  Div.  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  is  intersected  (see  Route  .53).  The  most 
important  points  on  this'  line  are  OleopoUs  (9  miles),  once  a  flourishing  cen- 
ter of  trade,  Tionesta  (20  miles),  and  Tidioute  (35  miles),  the  latter  being  quite 
a  manufacturing  place.  The  scenery  on  this  division  of  the  road  is  highly  pict- 
uresque. 

From  Oil  City  the  train  for  Buffalo  follows  the  valley  of  Oil 
Creek,  famous  as  the  scene  of  the  earliest  "  operations  in  oil."  The  old 
derricks  and  tanks  are  still  standing,  mementos  of  a  former  activity,  and 
an  occasional  pumping- well  is  seen,  while  most  of  the  stations  en  route 
are  decadent  relics  of  a  lost  prosperity.     Eighteen  miles  beyond  Oil  City 


254      HAERISBURG   TO    CUMBERLAND   VALLEY.      [Route  58. 

the  train  reaches  Titusville  {Eiiropean,  Mansion,  and  United  States),  a 
city  of  8,073  inhabitants,  and  the  largest  place  in  the  Oil  Regions.  It  is 
situated  in  a  broad  and  beautiful  valley,  through  which  flows  Oil  Creek. 
The  streets  are  broad  and  well  paved ;  the  business  blocks  are  of  brick 
and  stone ;  and  there  are  quite  a  number  of  fine  residences.  The  place 
owes  its  rapid  growth  and  prosperity  mainly  to  the  oil-wells  in  the  vicin- 
ity, which  are  very  productive ;  and  here  are  the  capacious  refineries  of 
the  Standard  Oil  Company.  Besides  the  oil-works  there  are  extensive 
iron-works,  foundries  and  machine-shops,  and  various  other  manufacto- 
ries. The  Union  &  Titusville  Branch  runs  in  25  miles  from  Titusville  to 
Union  City  on  the  Philadelphia  &  Erie  R.  R.  (see  Route  53) ;  and  the 
Dunkirk,  Alleghany  Yalley  &  Pittsburg  R.  R.  runs  in  91  miles  to  Dun- 
kirk (see  Route  41). 

Leaving  Titusville,  a  pictui-esque  ride  of  28  miles  past  a  number  of 
small  villages  brings  us  to  Corry  (see  Route  53).  Six  miles  beyond  Corry 
the  train  crosses  the  boundary-line  between  Pennsylvania  and  Xew  York, 
and  then  in  about  20  miles  reaches  MayviUe,  at  the  head  of  Chautau- 
qua Iiake,  the  highest  navigated  body  of  water  E.  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  (1,291  ft.  above  the  sea),  and  one  of  the  most  frequented 
of  summer  resorts.  At  Cliautanqua  (3  miles  from  Mayville),  the  head- 
quarters of  the  famous  Chautauqua  Literary  and  Scientific  Circle,  the  Na- 
tional Sunday-school  Assembly  hold  their  annual  session  during  July  and 
August ;  and  at  Point  Chautauqua  (l-^J  mile  from  Mayville)  the  National 
Baptist  Association  have  extensive  grounds.  Several  steamers  ply  on 
the  lake,  and  there  are  numerous  hotels.  From  Mayville  the  ride  to 
Brocton  (89  miles  from  Oil  City)  is  through  a  pleasant  country.  At 
Brocton  the  train  takes  the  Lake  Shore  &  Michigan  Southern  R.  R. 
to  Buffalo  (see  Route  40). 

58.  Harrisburg  to  the  Cumberland  Valley. 

By  the  Cumberland  Valley  R.  R.,  which  runs  S.  W.  from  Harrisburg  to  Win- 
chester. Distances  :  to  Carlisle,  18  miles  ;  to  Shippensburg,  41 ;  to  Chambers- 
burg,  52  ;  to  Hagerstown,  74  ;  to  Martinsbm-g,  94  ;  to  Winchester,  116. 

Leaving  the  Harrisburg  station  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  the 
train  crosses  the  Susquehanna,  and  passes  for  several  miles  amid 
strikingly  picturesque  scenery.  Mechanicshurg  (8  miles)  is  a  pretty 
town  of  3,691  inhabitants,  with  several  neat  churches,  a  number  of 
prosperous  factories,  and  the  favorably-known  educational  institution, 
the  Irving  Female  College.  A  branch  railroad  extends  south  from  this 
place  to  Dillsburg,  passing  through  Williams  Grove,  where  the  Gran- 
gers' picnic  is  held  annually  during  the  last  week  in  August.  This  is 
held  to  be  the  largest  gathering  of  farmers  in  the  country,  as  well  as 
the  largest  and  best  display  of  agricultural  implements.  Beyond  Me- 
chanicsburg  the  scenery  is  very  pleasing,  with  the  Kittatinny  or  Blue 
Moimtains  on  the  right  and  South  Mountain  on  the  left ;  and  in  8  miles 
the  train  reaches  Gettysburg  Jvndion,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
Harrisburg  &  Gettysburg  R.  R.  for  the  famous  battle-field,  passing  by  the 
way  the  Mt.  Holly  Spriiigs  {Holly  Inn),  a  summer  resort  with  picturesque 


Route  58.]      IIAKRISBUEG    TO    CUMBERLAND   VALLEY.       255 

scenery,  pleasant  walks  and  drives,  and  good  fishing  in  the  adjacent 
streams.  A  mile  beyond  the  junction  is  Carlisle,  a  borough  of  '7,620 
inhabitants,  situated  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  Cumberland  Valley. 
The  surrounding  country  is  level,  productive,  and  highly  cultivated.  The 
town  is  well  built,  with  wide  and  well-shaded  streets,  and  a  public 
square  on  which  front  the  county  buildings  and  pubHc  edifices  of  a  supe- 
rior order.  In  the  square  is  a  handsome  Monument  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  soldiers  of  Cumberland  County  who  fell  in  the  civil 
war.  Dickinson  College^  founded  in  fFSS,  and  now  under  the  care  of 
the  Methodists,  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  flourishing  institutions  in 
the  State.  It  has  plain  buildings  in  Main  St.,  W.  of  the  public  square, 
with  valuable  scientific  collections  and  a  library  of  26,000  volumes. 
The  Government  Training-ScJiool  for  Indians  is  also  in  Carlisle.  The 
Carlisle  Barracks  were  built  in  1777  by  the  Hessian  prisoners  captured 
at  Trenton,  and  have  accommodations  for  2,000  men.  Washington's 
headquarters  were  at  Carlisle  in  1794,  at  the  time  of  the  Whisky  Rebel- 
lion ;  and  the  town  v>"as  shelled  by  the  Confederates  on  the  night  of  July 
1,  1868,  during  Lee's  invasion  of  Pennsylvania.  It  was  captured  by  the 
Southern  troops,  who  at  the  same  time  occupied  Mechanicsburg  and  ad- 
vanced to  within  4  miles  of  Harrisburg.  At  the  base  of  Pisgah  Mt.,  14 
miles  X.  of  Carlisle,  are  the  Perry  Warm  Springs,  a  quiet  and  inex- 
pensive resort  amid  attractive  scenery.  The  waters  have  a  temperature 
of  70°  to  72^,  and  when  taken  internally  are  aperient  and  diuretic. 
They  are  most  esteemed  as  a  bath,  and  employed  in  this  way  are 
beneficial  in  diseases  of  the  skin.  The  Springs  are  also  reached 
bv  stage  in  12  miles  from  Duncannon  on  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (see 
Route  50). 

Eleven  miles  beyond  Carlisle,  on  the  railroad,  is  Neivville^  whence 
stages  run  to  the  Doubling  Gap  Springs,  a  quiet  resort,  and  connec- 
tion is  also  made  for  the  Clover  dale  Lithia  Springs.  The  adjacent 
scenery  of  the  Doubling  Gap,  where  the  Blue  Mt.  turns  on  itself  and 
forms  a  gigantic  cid-de-sac,  is  peculiarly  picturesque  and  striking.  Ship- 
pjenshiirg  (41  miles)  is  the  market  and  shipping-point  for  the  productive 
farming  region  of  which  it  is  the  center,  and  has  a  population  of  2,188. 
The  Cumberland  Valley  Normal  School  stands  on  a  far-viewing  hill  to 
the  N.  At  Mord  Alto  Junction  connection  is  made  for  Waynesboro  and 
the  resort  Mont  Alto.  Eleven  miles  beyond  Shippensburg  is  Cham- 
bersburg  [JVatioticd,  Washington),  a  borough  of  7,863  inhabitants  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  Conecocheague  Creek.  The  surrounding  country, 
which  forms  part  of  the  great  limestone  valley  at  the  S.  E.  base  of  the 
Blue  Mts.,  is  populous  and  highly  cultivated.  The  town  is  well  built, 
the  houses  being  mostly  of  brick  or  stone ;  and  there  are  manufactories 
of  cotton,  wool,  fiour,  paper,  and  iron.  The  Cotirt-House  is  a  hand- 
some edifice,  and  Wilson  College  (for  women)  is  a  flourishing  institu- 
tion. Chambersburg  was  captured  and  set  on  fire  by  the  Confed- 
erates under  Gen.  Early,  on  July  30,  1864,  during  a  raid  into  Penn- 
sylvania. Two  thirds  of  the  town  was  destroyed,  inflicting  a  loss  of 
$2,000,000. 

Ascending  the  valley  from  Chambersburg,  the  train  soon  reaches  the 


i}56  BALTIMORE   TO   NIAGARA   FALLS.        [Moute  59. 

pretty  village  of  Greencastle  (63  miles),  and  5  miles  beyond  crosses  the 
famous  Mason  and  Dixon's  Line  and  enters  the  State  of  Maryland.  Six 
miles  beyond  the  hne  is  Hagerstown,  capital  of  Washington  County, 
with  a  population  of  10,118.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of 
Antietam  Creek,  22  miles  above  its  entrance  into  the  Potomac,  at  the 
intersection  of  the  present  route  with  the  Western  Maryland  E.  K.  and 
the  Washington  Co.  Branch  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  Here  also 
connection  is  made  with  the  Shenandoah  Valley  R.  R.,  on  which  road  are 
the  Caverns  of  Luray,  the  Grottoes,  and  the  Natural  Bridge.  The  city  is 
regularly  laid  out  and  well  built,  with  a  handsome  Court-House,  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $77,000.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  agricultural  region, 
from  which  it  draws  considerable  trade,  and  there  are  prosperous 
foundries  and  factories.  About  7  miles  S.  of  Hagerstown  is  the  College 
of  St.  James  (Episcopal).  Hagerstown  was  the  scene  of  several  severe 
conflicts  during  the  civil  war,  being  captured  a  number  of  times  by  the 
Confederates  and  as  often  retaken  by  the  National  forces.  WilUamsport 
(81  miles)  is  where  Lee  recrossed  into  Virginia  after  the  battle  of  Get- 
tysburg (see  Route  59).  Here  the  train  crosses  the  Potomac  on  a  long 
bridge,  enters  W.  Virginia,  and  passes  in  14  miles  to  Martinsburg,  a 
town  of  7,226  inhabitants,  on  the  Tuscarora  Creek,  where  it  crosses 
the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (see  Route  69).  There  are  here  a  com- 
modious Court-House,  a  Town-Hall,  a  Market-House,  spacious  agricult- 
ural fair  grounds,  and  machine-shops  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R. 
Twenty-two  miles  beyond,  Winchester  (116  miles  from  Harrisburg)  is 
reached.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  road,  and  is  a  place  of  5,196  inhab- 
itants. Stage  connection  may  be  made  to  Capon^  Rock  Enon,  Orkney.^ 
and  other  noted  Virginia  springs.  Near  here  was  the  scene  of  several 
of  Gen.  P.  H.  Sheridan's  important  battles  during  the  civil  wai",  as  well 
as  of  his  famous  ride,  described  so  graphically  in  Thomas  Buchanan 
Read's  poem.  Both  National  and  Confederate  cemeteries  ai-e  located 
in  Winchester. 

59.  Baltimore  to  Niagara  Falls. 

By  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.  (Pennsylvania  R.  R.  System)  throiagh  Maryland, 
Pennsylvania,  and  Western  New  York,  mtersecting  all  the  great  lines  of  E.  and 
W.  travel.  At  Harrisburg  it  crosses  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  ;  at  Williamsport, 
the  Philadelphia  &  Erie  Div.  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  ;  at  Elmira,  the  Erie  R. 
R.  ;  and  terminates  at  Canandaigua  on  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  It  is  a  favor- 
ite route  of  travel  from  the  South  to  Niagara  Falls  and  ail  the  great  North- 
ern resorts,  and  runs  drawing-room  and  sleeping  cars  on  aU  the  through 
trains.  Distances  :  to  Hanover  Junction,  46  miles  ;  to  York,  57  ;  to  Harris- 
burg, 85  ;  to  Sunbnry,  138  ;  to  Williamsport,  178 ;  to  Ralston,  202  :  to  Elmira, 
256  ;  to  Watkins  Glen,  278  ;  to  Canandaigua,  325  ;  to  Rochester,  354  ;  to  Buf- 
falo, 422  ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  431.  The  time  from  Baltimore  to  Canandaigua  is 
18  hours  ;  to  Buffalo,  23  hoars  ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  24  hours. 

The  terminal  station  in  Baltimore  of  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.  is 
the  Union  Depot.,  in  Charles  St.  The  Maryland  section  of  the  road 
traverses  a  rich  but  monotonous  farming  region,  with  numerous  small 
stations  en  route.,  but  nothing  to  call  for  special  notice.  Just  beyood 
Freeland  (34  miles)  the  train  enters  Pennsylvania.  Prom  Hanover 
Junction  (46  miles)  a  branch  diverges  in  30  miles  to 


Route  59.]        BALTIMOEE    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS.  257 

Gettysburg. 

From  Philadelphia,  Gettysburg  is  reached  via  Pennsylvania  E.  E.  to  Han- 
over, and  thence  by  Western  Maryland  E.  E.  Total  distance,  136  miles.  From 
New  York  it  is  reached  via  Philadelphia,  or  by  Eoute  48  to  Harrisburg,  thence 
by  Cumberland  Valley  E.  E.  to  Gettysburg  Junction,  and  thence  by  Philadel- 
phia &  Eeading  E.  E.    Total  distance  from  New  York,  250  miles. 

^otel?,.— Eagle  Hotel,  Globe,  Mc  Clellan  House,  Springs  Hotel. 

Gettysburg  is  a  borough  of  3,221  inhabitants,  capital  of  Adams 
Co.,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  gently  rolling  and  fertile  plain, 
surrounded  by  hills,  from  which  extensive  and  pleasing  views  are  ob- 
tained. The  Court-House  and  Public  Offices  are  commodious  brick 
structures,  and  the  residences  are  generally  neat  and  substantial. 
Pennsylvania  College,  founded  in  1832,  and  the  Lutheran  Theological 
Seminary,  founded  in  1825,  are  among  the  institutions  of  the  place. 
Both  have  large  and  beautiful  buildings,  and  the  former  has  a  library 
of  10,000  volumes,  and  the  latter  a  library  of  11,000  volumes.  One 
mile  W.  of  the  borough  are  the  Gettysburg  Springs,  whose  waters, 
denominated  Katalysine,  have  acquired  a  wide  i-eputation  for  their 
medicinal  equalities.  They  are  said  to  resemble  the  celebrated  Vichy 
watei-,  and  are  considered  remedial  in  gout,  rheumatism,  dyspepsia, 
and  affections  of  the  kidneys.  The  Springs  Hotel  accommodates  the 
patients  who  resort  here  during  the  summer  for  treatment. 

The  chief  interest  of  Gettysburg  is  historic,  and  this  it  is  that  at- 
tracts tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  A  great  battle,  perhaps  the 
most  important  af  the  civil  war,  was  fought  here  on  the  1st,  2d,  and  3d 
of  July,  1863,  between  the  National  forces  under  General  Meade  and  the 
Confederate  array  under  General  Lee.  The  battle  is  described  below, 
and  it  is  only  necessary  now  to  point  out  the  principal  objects  of  in- 
terest. Cemetery  Hill,  so  named  from  having  long  been  the  site  of 
the  village  cemetery,  forms  the  central  and  most  sti-iking  feature  at 
Gettysburg.  Here  were  the  Union  headquarters,  and  standing  on  its 
crest  the  visitor  has  the  key  to  the  position  of  the  Union  forces  during 
those  eventful  three  days  of  July.  Flanking  Cemetery  Hill  on  the  W., 
about  a  mile  distant,  is  Seminary  Ridge,  on  which  were  General  Lee's 
headquarters  and  the  bulk  of  the  Confederate  forces.  Other  sp<its 
usually  visited  are  Benner''s  Hill,  Cxdp's  Hill,  Round  Top,  and  Little 
Round  Tojj  ;  also  Willoughhy  Run,  where  Buford's  cavalry  held  A.  P. 
Hill's  column  in  check  during  two  critical  hours.  The  *  National 
Cemetery,  containing  the  remains  of  the  Union  soldiers  who  fell  in  the 
battle  of  Gettysburg,  occupies  about  IV  acres  on  Cemetery  Hill  adjacent 
to  the  village  cemetery,  and  was  dedicated  with  imposing  ceremonies, 
and  an  impressive  address  by  President  Lincoln,  Nov.  19,  1863.  A 
*  Soldiers'  Monument,  dedicated  July  4,  1868,  occupies  the  crown 
of  the  hill,  60  ft.  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  marble  statue  of 
Liberty.  At  the  base  of  the  pedestal  are  4  buttresses  bearing  colossal 
marble  statues  of  War,  History,  Peace,  and  Plenty.  Around  the  mon- 
ument, in  semicircular  slopes,  are  arranged  the  graves  of  the  dead,  the 
space  being  divided  by  alleys  and  pathways  into  22  sections :  one  for 
the  regular  army,  one  for  the  volunteers  of  each  State  represented  in 
IT 


258  BALTIMORE   TO   KIAGAEA   FALLS.        [Route  59. 

the  battle,  and  three  for  the  unknown  dead.  The  number  of  bodies 
interred  here  is  3,564,  of  which  994  have  not  been  identified.  Near  the 
entrance  to  the  cemeteiy  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Major-General  John 
F.  Reynolds,  who  Avas  killed  in  the  first  day's  fight.  Opposite  the 
cemetery,  an  observatory,  60  ft.  high,  has  been  erected,  command- 
ing a  fine  view.  A  monument  to  the  Pennsylvania  troops  was  erected 
in  188Y. 

The  Battle  of  Gettysburg  was  foxight  July  1,  2,  and  3,  1863,  betweeo 
the  Union  army  under  General  Meade  and  the  Confederate  Army  of  Northern 
Virginia  under  General  Lee.  Having  resolved  upon  an  invasion  of  the  North, 
the  Confederates  had  early  in  June  concentrated  a  force  of  nearly  100,000  men, 
including  15,000  cavalry,  in  the  vicinity  of  Culpepper,  Va.  They  moved  down 
the  valley  of  the  Shenandoah,  and  on  the  24th  and  25th  crossed  the  Potomac  in 
two  columns,  which,  miiting  at  Hagerstown,  Md.,  pressed  on  toward  Chambers- 
burg,  Pa.  The  Union  army,  having  broken  up  its  camp  opposite  Fredericks- 
burg and  moved  N.,  crossed  the  river  farther  down  on  the  28th,  on  which  day 
Hooker,  having  resigned  the  command,  was  succeeded  by  Meade.  Lee's  com- 
munications being  threatened,  he  resolved  to  concentrate  his  whole  force  at 
Gettysburg,  already  (unknown  to  him)  occupied  by  a  part  of  the  Union  army 
under  Eeynolds.  The  first  collision  occurred  on  July  1,  about  2  miles  N.  W.  of 
Gettysburg,  between  the  Confederate  advance  under  A.  P.  Hill  and  a  recon- 
noitering  party  of  cavalry  (afterward  supported  by  infantry)  sent  out  by  Eey- 
nolds. The  Union  forces,  at  first  superior,  were  soon  outnumbered,  and  were 
driven  back  in  confusion  through  Gettysburg,  losing  5,000  prisoners  and  as 
many  killed  and  wounded.  The  Confederate  loss  in  killed  and  wounded  was 
probably  somewhat  greater,  in  prisoners  much  less.  Both  sides  hmi'ied  up  their 
forces,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  the  bulk  of  the  two  armies  was  in  posi- 
tion, the  Union  on  Cemetery  Eidge  S.  of  Gettysburg,  and  the  Confederate  on 
Seminary  Eidge  opposite  (to  the  west),  except  EwelPs  corps,  which  lay  2  miles 
distant  at  the  foot  of  Gulp's  Hill  on  the  Union  right.  The  forces  present  or 
close  at  hand  were  about  equal,  each  numbering  from  70,000  to  80,000  infantry 
and  artUlery.  Lee  resolved  to  attack  the  Federal  position.  The  main  attack 
was  made  by  Long-street's  corps  on  the  LTnion  left,  where  considerable  gi'ound 
was  gained.  On  the  right  Ewell  effected  a  lodgment  within  the  Union  intrench- 
ments.  The  Union  loss  in  this  action  was  fully  10,000,  half  in  Sickles's  corps, 
which  lost  nearly  half  its  numbers.  Lee  determined  to  continue  the  assault  on 
the  3d.  Early  in  the  morning  Meade  took  the  offensive  against  Ewell,  and 
forced  him  from  the  foothold  which  he  had  gained,  but  of  this  Lee  was  not  in- 
formed. The  Confederates  spent  the  morning  in  preparation,  and  at  1  o'clock 
opened  fire  from  120  giuis,  which  was  immediately  returned,  though  Meade, 
owing  to  the  rugged  nature  of  the  ground,  was  able  to  use  at  once  only  80  of 
his  200  guns.  After  two  hours  the  Union  fire  was  gradually  suspended,  and 
Leg,  supposing  that  their  batteries  had  been  silenced  and  that  the  infantry  must 
be  demoralized,  ordered  the  grand  attack  of  the  day,  which  was  directed  against 
the  Union  center.  The  attacking  column  numbered  about  18,000,  consisting  of 
Pickett's  division  and  Pettigrew's  brigade.  Though  met  by  a  terrible  fire  of 
artillery  and  musketry,  it  pressed  on,  Pettigrew  reaching  within  300  yards  of 
Hancock's  line,  when  he  was  driven  back  in  disorder  ;  while  Pickett's  division 
charged  through  Webb's  front  line  among  the  Federal  batteries,  where  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  there  was  a  struggle  with  pistols  and  clubbed  muskets.  The 
Union  troops  hurried  from  all  sides  aiid  drove  the  enemy  back  down  the  slope, 
not  one  in  four  escaping.  Meade  with  his  left  then  drove  back  Hood  from  the 
ridge  he  had  won  the  preceding  day.  The  Confederate  loss  this  day  was  about 
16,000  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners  ;  the  Union  loss  was  about  3,000.  Both 
armies  remained  inactive  the  next  day,  and  during  the  night  Lee  began  his  re- 
treat to  the  Potomac,  v/hich  he  reached  on  the  7th.  Here  he  was  compelled  to 
halt  by  the  swollen  stream.  On  the  12th  Meade  came  in  front  of  the  Confederate 
intrenchments,  but  an  attack  was  postponed  till  the  14th,  when  Lee  was  found 
to  be  safe  on  the  other  side,  haviug  succeeded  in  crossing  during  the  night. 
The  Union  loss  at  Gettysburg  was  23,190,  of  whom  2,834  were  killed,  13,713 
wounded,  and  6,643  missing.  The  Confederate  loss  has  never  been  oflicially 
stated  ;  but  by  the  best  estimates  it  was  about  36,000,  of  whom  about  5,000  were 


i 


Tioute  59.]        BALTBIOEE   TO   XIAGAEA   FALLS.  259 

killed,  23,000  woxvnded,  and  8,000  unwoimded  prisoners.     The   entire  num- 
ber of  piisoners  was  aljout  14,000.— Appletons"  Condensed  American  Ct- 

■  CLOPSDIA. 

On  the  main  line,  1 1  miles  beyond  Hanover  Junction,  is  the  ancient 
city  of  York,  situated  on  Codorus  Creek,  and  containing  20,793  inhab- 
itants. York  was  settled  in  1741,  incorporated  in  178Y,  and  the  Con- 
tinental Congress  sat  here  from  Sept.  30,  1777,  to  July,  1778.  During 
the  Confederate  invasion  of  Pennsylvania  in  1863  it  was  occupied  by 
Early,  who  levied  a  contribution  of  $100,000  on  the  citizens,  but  left  the 
place  unharmed.  The  city  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  rich  agricultural 
region,  and  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles.  At  the  intersection  of  Main  and  George  Sts.,  the  leading  thor- 
oughfares, is  Center  Square.  The  Court-House  is  a  handsome  edifice 
with  granite  front  and  Corinthian  columns.  York  contains  several  large 
car-shops,  some  of  the  most  extensive  manufactories  of  agricultural  im- 
plements in  the  country,  a  shoe  and  a  match  factory,  and  the  Codorus 
paper-mills.  The  train  traverses  the  streets  of  York  for  some  distance, 
descends  the  rich  Codorus  Valley,  and  a  few  miles  below  Harrisburg 
reaches  the  Susquehanna  River,  which  is  followed  as  far  as  Williamsport 
amid  extremely  beautiful  scenery.  From  Bridgeport  (83  miles)  a  long 
bridge  crosses  the  river  to  Harrisburg,  the  capital  of  Pennsylvania, 
which  is  described  in  Route  50.  The  scenery  along  the  line  from  Harris- 
burg to  Williamsport  is  very  fine,  but  none  of  the  stations  possess  any 
special  attractions  for  the  tourist.  Sunhiiry  (138  miles)  is  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  present  route  with  the  Philadelphia  &  Erie  R.  R.  (Route 
53),  and  has  already  been  described.  Wiliiam.sport  (178  miles)  is  the 
converging  point  of  the  present  route,  Route  53  and  Route  56,  and  has 
been  described. 

Leaving  Williamsport,  the  train  ascends  the  narrow  valley  of  Ly- 
coming Creek,  and  traverses  for  many  miles  a  picturesque  and  sparsely- 
settled  region,  dear  to  sportsmen.  The  station  of  Trout  Run  (191 
miles)  is  near  a  fish-abounding  stream ;  and  11  miles  beyond  is  Ralston, 
a  sequestered  hamlet,  1,800  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  surrounded  by  lofty 
hills  covered  with  primeval  forest.  The  scenery  is  extremely  picturesque ; 
many  romantic  cascades  are  found  in  the  mountain-gorges,  and  near  by 
are  numerous  trout-streams  which  afford  excellent  sport.  The  Mclntire 
Coal-Mine  is  just  N.  of  the  village,  and  the  gravity  railroad  up  the 
mountain-side  is  a  great  curiosity.  Minnequa  (219  miles)  is  near  the 
Minnequa  Springs  {Minnequa  House),  which  have  become  popular  as 
a  summer  resort.  They  are  situated  in  a  lovely  mountain-surrounded 
valley,  1,500  ft.  above  the  sea,  with  excellent  trout-brooks  in  the 
vicinity,  and  abundance  of  game  in  the  adjacent  woods.  The  waters 
contain  oxide  of  iron,  are  tonic  in  quality,  and  are  said  to  be  efficacious 
in  dyspepsia,  rheumatism,  consumption,  and  cutaneous  diseases.  Fas- 
sett  (247  miles)  is  the  last  station  in  Pennsylvania,  and  a  short  distance 
beyond  the  train  crosses  into  New  York  and  passes  in  9  miles  to  El- 
mira,  at  the  intersection  of  the  Erie  R.  R.  (see  Route  41).  Beyond 
Elmira  the  fine  traverses  a  quiet  rural  district,  and  passes  in  22  miles  to 
Watkins  and  the  famous 


260  BALTEMORE  TO   NIAGARA   FALLS.        [Route  59. 

Watkins  Glen. 

From  New  York,  Watking  is  reached  by  the  Erie  E.  E.  (Route  41),  or  by  the 
Delaware  &  Lackawanna  Eoute  (Route  43),  to  Elraira  (273  miles),  and  from  El- 
mira  by  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.  (22  miles).  It  can  also  be  reached  by  the 
N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  to  Geneva  on  Seneca  Lake,  and  thence  either  by  steamer  on 
Seneca  Lake,  or  by  the  Fall  Brook  R.  R.  From  Philadelphia  by  the  Philadel- 
phia &  Reading  R.  E.  and  connecting  roads,  or  by  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  to  Har- 
I'isburg,  and  thence  by  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.  (300  miles).  From  Baltimore 
via  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.  (278  miles). 

Hotels. — In  the  village  are  the  Jefferson  House  and  the  JFall  Brook  House, 
open  all  the  year.  Near  the  entrance  of  the  Glen  is  the  Glen  Park  Hotel. 
Within  the  Glen  itself  is  the  Glen  Mo^infain  House.  The  rates  at  these  houses 
range  from  $2  to  $4  a  day ;  reduction  by  the  week.  The  Lake  Shoo^e  House, 
near  Seneca  Lake,  charges  lower  rates. 

Watkins  is  a  village  of  2,604  inhabitants,  at  the  head  of  Seneca  Lake, 
and  within  the  shadow  of  Glen  Mt.  Franklin  St.,  running  parallel  with 
the  mountain-ridge,  leads  in  -|-  mile  from  the  station  to  the  entrance  of 
the  *  Glen ,  which  is  simply  a  vertical  rift  or  gorge  in  a  rocky  bluff 
some  YOO  or  800  ft.  in  height,  through  which  tumbles  a  roaring  mount- 
ain-brook. The  length  of  the  Glen  is  about  3  miles,  and  the  cliffs  at 
the  deepest  part  of  the  gorge  have  an  altitude  of  nearly  300  ft.  First 
entering  a  huge  amphitheatre  to  which  there  is  no  apparent  exit,  the  vis- 
itor follows  the  path  to  its  W.  end,  where  he  linds  that,  instead  of  meet- 
ing, the  walls  of  rock  overlap  each  other,  leaving  a  narrow  passage, 
through  and  up  which  he  passes  by  steep  stairways,  running  diagonally 
along  the  face  of  the  wall,  braced  strongly  to  it,  and  also  propped  firmly 
from  beneath.  This  first  section  is  called  Glen  Alpha,  and  at  its  upper 
end  are  the  Minnehaha  Falls,  beyond  which  the  path  traverses  the  nar- 
row gorge,  called  the  Labyrinth,  to  the  Cavern  Cascade,  and  ascends  the 
Long  Staircase,  which  is  flung  at  an  angle  of  90  degrees  across  the  tre- 
mendous chasm.  From  the  head  of  the  Long  Staircase  a  path  ascends 
a  succession  of  steep  stairways  to  a  shelf  of  mountain  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  ravine.  On  this  shelf  is  perched  the  Mountain  House,,  consisting 
of  a  cottage  built  in  the  style  of  a  Swiss  chalet,  on  one  side  of  the  gorge, 
while  on  the  other  side  (connected  by  a  graceful  iron  suspension-bridge) 
is  the  main  building.  The  chalet  is  a  favorite  point  for  rest  and  refresh- 
ment, and  is  in  all  respects  one  of  the  most  attractive  features  of  the 
Glen  scenery.  Its  balconies  overhang  the  gorge,  with  trees  jutting  up 
above  them  from  ledges  in  the  rocks  below ;  and  the  visitor  looks  down 
fi-om  his  advantageous  position  into  depths  of  the  Glen  that  remain 
inaccessible.  Close  at  hand  is  Captain  Hope's  G-len  Art  Gallery  (ad- 
mission, 25c.),  containing  upward  of  100  paintings  by  himself,  chiefly  of 
the  Glen  scenery. 

Leaving  the  Mouiitain  House,  the  path  descends  gradually  almost  to 
the  bed  of  the  stream,  through  the  gloomy  Glen  Ohscura,  and,  passing 
the  Sylvan  Rapids,  enters  the  *  Glen  Cathedral,  an  enormous  amphi- 
theatre, which  is  considered  the  most  imposing  feature  of  the  wonderful 
gorge.  It  is  1,000  ft.  long,  with  a  floor  as  level  as  if  paved  with  human 
hands,  and  walls  rising  to  a  height  of  nearly  300  ft.  In  the  center  is 
the  lovely  Pool  of  the  Nymphs,  and  at  the  W.  end  (called  the  "  Chancel ") 
the  Central  Cascade  pours  its  waters  into  the  gorge  over  a  ledge  60  ft. 


Boute  55.]        BAXTIMOEE   TO    NIAGARA    FALLS.  261 

high.  From  the  N.  side  of  the  Cathedral  the  Grand  Staircase  leads  to 
the  Glen  of  the  Pools,  so  named  from  the  number  of  its  water-worn 
basins.  Beyond  the  Glen  of  the  Pools  the  Gianfs  Gorge  is  reached,  at 
the  upper  end  of  which  are  the  exquisite  *  Rainbow  Falls,  where 
three  cascades  drop  from  one  rocky  ledge  to  another,  foaming  and  seeth- 
ing, while  to  one  side  a  thin  stream,  falling  from  a  great  height,  spreads 
itself  out  like  a  silver  mist,  and  mingles  its  waters  with  those  in  the 
rock-bound  channel  far  below.  The  path  passes  behind  the  fall  and 
leads  up  another  stairway  to  the  Shadow  Gorge,  which  is  narrow,  rugged, 
and  somber,  the  pathway  being  hewn  out  of  the  clifE-side,  and  at  the 
head  of  which  the  Pluto  Falls  plunge  over  the  rocky  parapet  into  a 
deep,  black  pool.  Near  the  Pluto  Falls  there  is  a  rustic  stairway  leading 
to  Glen  Arcadia,  from  the  entrance  of  which  there  are  beautiful 
views  both  up  and  down  the  gorge,  and  at  the  head  of  which  are  the 
Arcadian  Falls,  spanned  by  a  bridge  from  which  the  retrospect  down 
Eljin  Gorge  is  remarkably  fine.  Next  above  is  Glen  Facility,  near  the 
head  of  which  is  the  iron  bridge  of  the  Fall  Brook  Railway,  450  ft.  long 
and  165  ft.  above  the  stream;  and  then  come  Glen  Horicon,  Glen  Elys- 
ium, with  steep  wooded  banks  400  ft.  high,  and  Glen  Omega,  with 
Omega  Falls.  The  last  two  are  little  more  than  open  forest-glades, 
and  contain  scarcely  a  hint  of  the  wild  scenes  below. 

Those  who  do  not  care  to  retrace  their  steps  to  the  entrance,  on  their 
return  (the  descent  of  the  stairs  is  even  more  trying  than  the  ascent), 
can  leave  the  Glen  at  the  Mountain  House  by  a  path  leading  out  to  the 
open  country  and  through  the  beautiful  Glenwood  Cemetery,  from  the 
heights  of  which  is  presented  one  of  the  finest  landscape  views  in  this 
part  of  the  State. 

Havana  Glen,  3  miles  S.  of  Watkins  (reached  by  carriages),  is  1^ 
mile  long,  ascends  700  ft.,  and  is  preferred  by  some  to  the  Watkins 
Glen.  It  is  very  picturesque,  is  more  airy  and  open,  and  is  quite  easily 
traversed ;  and  yet  it  is  not  wanting  in  those  elements  of  gloom  and 
vastness  which  are  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  its  better-known  rival. 
The  same  system  of  stairways  and  ladders  prevails  as  at  Watkins,  but 
these  aids  of  progress  are  fewer  and  the  paths  broader.  (Admission, 
25c.)  The  Montour  Glen  and  the  Excelsior  Glen  are  also  in  the  vicinity 
of  Havana  and  Watkins,  and  are  vei-y  striking. 


Beyond  Watkins  the  line  skirts  the  W.  shore  of  Seneca  Lake  (see 
Route  40)  for  12  miles,  and  soon  reaches  Penn  Ycm  (301  miles),  a  pretty 
village  of  4,254  inhabitants  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Keuka  (formerly 
called  Crooked  Lake),  which  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  18  miles  long, 
l^mile  wide  at  the  widest  part,  718  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  277  ft.  above 
Seneca  Lake,  which  is  only  7  miles  distant.  At  the  foot  or  N.  end  it  is 
divided  by  a  promontory  into  two  branches,  one  5  and  the  other  8  miles 
long.  The  scenery  along  the  shores  is  extremely  picturesque,  and  the 
waters  are  clear  and  full  of  fish. 

From  Penn  Yan  several  steamers  run  twice  a  day  each  to  Hammonds- 
port,  a  neat  village  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  whence  the  Bath  and  Ham- 


262  THE    ST.    LAWRENCE   EIVER.  [Route  60. 

mondsport  R.  R.  runs  10  miles  to  Bath  on  the  Erie  R.  R.  Hammonds- 
port  is  the  center  of  an  extensive  grape-growing  and  wine-making  re- 
gion, and  the  adjacent  hill-slopes  are  clothed  with  vineyards.  In  the 
cellars  of  the  Urbana  and  Pleasant  Valley  Wine  Cos.  are  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  bottles  of  Catawba,  Isabella,  claret,  and  native  cham- 
pagnes. Grove  Springs,  a  well-known  summer  resort,  is  5  miles  N.  of 
Hammondsport.  Beyond  Penn  Yan  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.  passes 
several  obscure  hamlets,  and  soon  reaches  its  terminus  at  Cauandai- 
gua  (Route  40),  on  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  From  this  point  the  traveler 
can  go  W.  to  Rochester,  Buffalo,  and  Niagara  Falls,  or  E.  to  Albany  and 
Troy.    The  route  in  both  directions  is  described  in  Route  40. 

60.  The  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence  usually  begins  at  Kingston  {City 
Hotel,  Hotel  Frontenac),  a  flourishing  Canadian  city  of  19,264  inhabitants, 
at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  on  the  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.,  172 
miles  from  Montreal,  343  from  Quebec,  392  from  Detroit,  and  469  from 
Portland.  It  is  reached  from  New  York  via  Route  40  to  Rome,  and 
thence  via  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  to  Cape  Vin- 
cent (distance,  34*7  miles;  fare,  $8.80).  From  Cape  Vincent  a  steam- 
ferry  connects  with  Kingston.  The  Royal  Mail  steamers  of  the  Riche- 
lieu &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.  leave  Kingston  daily  at  5  a.  m.,  and 
reach  Montreal  at  6.30  p.  m. 

The  Thousand  Islands. 

Almost  immediately  after  leaving  Kingston  or  Cape  Vincent  the 
steamer  enters  that  portion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  known  as  the  Lake  of  the 
Thousand  Islands,  from  the  groups  of  islands  and  islets  amid  which  it 
threads  its  tortuous  way  toward  Ogdensbm-g.  According  to  the  Treaty 
of  Ghent  these  islands  are  1,692  in  number,  and  they  extend  for  40 
miles  below  Lake  Ontario.  They  are  of  every  imaginable  shape,  size, 
and  appearance,  some  of  them  barely  visible,  others  covering  many 
acres  ;  some  only  a  few  yards  long,  others  several  miles  in  length ;  some 
presenting  little  or  nothing  but  bare  masses  of  rock,  while  others  are  so 
thickly  wooded  that  nothing  but  the  most  gorgeous  green  foliage  is  to 
be  seen  in  summer,  while  in  autumn  the  leaves  present  colors  of  dif- 
ferent hues  hardly  imaginable.  You  pass  close  to,  and  often  near 
enough,  to  cast  a  pebble  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer  on  many  of 
these  circular  little  islands,  whose  trees,  perpetually  moistened  by  the 
water,  have  a  most  luxuriant  leaf,  their  branches  overhanging  the  cur- 
rent. The  lighthouses  which  mark  out  the  channel  are  a  picturesque 
feature,  but  they  are  drearily  alike — fragile  wooden  structures  about  20 
ft.  high,  uniformly  whitewashed.  Many  summer  visitors  remain  at  Gan- 
anoque  (International  Hotel),  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  and  at 
Cliytou  (Frontenac,  Hubbard,  and  Walton),  opposite  (lY  miles  from 
Ca^:)e  Vincent) ;  but  the  chief  resort  of  the  Thousand  Islands  is  Alex- 
andria Bay  (Thousand  Island  House  and  Crossmon  House),  on  the 
New  York  side  of  the  river,  the  hotels  being  the  most  conspicuous 


Route  60.]  THE    ST.    LAWEEXCE    EIVER.  263 

feature  (12  miles  from  Cla}i;on).  On  the  islets  near  the  bay  are  nu- 
merous elegant  villas,  among  them  one  owned  by  George  M.  Pullman, 
of  palace-car  fame.  The  boating  is  excellent,  and  the  fishing  in  the 
vicinity  is  very  fine,  including  pickerel,  muscalonge,  black  bass,  and  doiy. 
There  are  also  myi'iads  of  wild  fowl  in  their  season.  About  8  miles  S.  E. 
of  Alexandria  Bay  are  the  romantic  Lakes  of  TJieresa  (Clear,  Crystal, 
Mud,  Butterfield,  and  Lake  of  the  Xorth),  with  good  fishing,  and  shores 
and  islands  abounding  in  rare  minerals.  Frequent  steamers  ply  between 
Cape  Vincent,  Cla}i;on,  and  Alexandria  Bay,  on  the  arrival  of  trains  at 
the  two  former,  and  a  steamer  leaves  the  Bay  twice  a  day  for  a  round 
trip,  touching  at  Thouaand  Island  Park^  the  largest  of  the  islands. 
Wells  Island^  and  other  landings.  Moi-ristovm  is  a  post-village  of  New 
York,  below  Alexandria,  and  14  miles  from  Ogdensburg.  On  the  Cana- 
dian shore  opposite  (reached  by  ferry-boat)  lies  Brockville.  At  this  point 
in  the  river  the  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands  ends,  and  we  come  upon 
the  open  river,  2  miles  wide. 

Thirteen  miles  from  Brockville,  on  the  Canadian  side,  lies  Prescott, 
and  immediately  opposite  (connected  by  steam-ferry)  the  flourishing 
American  city  of  Ogdensburg  {Seymour  House).  The  city  has  11,662 
population,  is  attractively  situated  and  handsomely  built,  and  is  con- 
nected by  railroad  with  a  number  of  prominent  points  east,  west,  and 
south.  It  is  the  N.  terminus  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg 
R.  R.  (see  Route  40),  and  is  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R. 
A  few  miles  below  Ogdensburg  the  descent  of  the  first  rapids  {Gallopes 
Rapides)  is  made,  and  immediately  afterward  of  the  Rapide  de  Plat.  The 
descent  of  these  rapids  is  made  with  full  steam  on,  and  there  is  scarcely 
anything  to  indicate  that  the  steamer  is  not  pursuing  its  usual  placid 
course.  Thirty  miles  below  Ogdensburg  is  Louisville^  whence  stages  run 
to  Massena  Springs  [Harrowgate  Hotel.,  Hatfield  House).,  V  miles  dis- 
tant. These  springs  are  on  the  banks  of  the  Raquette  River,  in  New 
York  State,  and  are  five  in  number,  the  largest  being  named  St.  Regis,  in 
honor  of  the  tribe  of  Indians  who  first  discovered  its  virtues.  They  are 
a  popular  resort  in  summer,  their  attractiveness  being  greatly  enhanced 
by  the  beautiful  scenery  by  which  they  are  surrounded,  and  by  their 
proximity  to  the  Long  Sault  Rapids,  about  5  miles  distant.  The  springs 
are  reached  directly  by  Niagara  Falls  line  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  & 
Ogdensburg  R.  R.  from  Ogdensburg,  or  by  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  by 
stage  from  Brasher. 

Dickhwoii^s  Landing  is  at  the  head  of  the  famous  *  liOng  Sault 
Rapids 9  which  are  9  miles  in  length,  and  through  which  a  raft  will 
drift  in  40  minutes.  Here  the  tourist  experiences  the  celebrated  sensa- 
tion known  as  "shooting  the  Rapids."  Until  1840  this  passage  was 
considered  impossible ;  but  by  watching  the  course  of  rafts  down  the 
river  a  channel  was  discovered,  and  steamboats  then  attempted  it  for 
the  first  time,  under  the  guidance  of  the  Indian  pilot  TeronMaher'e. 
Some  of  the  pilots  are  still  Indians,  and  they  exhibit  great  skill  and 
courage  in  the  performance  of  their  dangerous  duties.  Yet  no  one  need 
fear  the  undertaking,  for  there  has  never  yet  occurred  a  fatal  accident 
in  making  this  course.     The  (Jornwall  Canal.,  11  miles  long,  enables 


264  MONTREAL.  [Route  60. 

vessels  to  go  round  the  Rapids  in  ascending  the  river.  Cornwall  is  a 
thriving  town  at  the  foot  of  the  Rapids,  opposite  which  is  the  large 
Indian  village  of  St.  Regis.  Just  below  this  place  the  St.  Lawrence,  now 
entirely  in  Canada,  expands  into  Lake  St.  Francis,  which  is  25  miles 
long  and  about  5  miles  wide,  and  is  dotted  with  islets,  especially  at  the 
lower  end.  Coteau  clu  Lac,  30  miles  below  Cornwall,  is  at  the  head  of 
the  Coteau  Rapids,  which,  9  miles  below,  take  the  name  of  the  Cedars., 
and,  still  farther  on,  of  the  Cascades.  At  the  foot  of  the  Cascades  is 
BeaiiJiarnois,  at  the  lower  end  of  a  canal  11^  miles  long,  around  the 
Rapids.  The  village  is  prettily  situated  on  a  bay,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  picnics  from  Montreal.  The  expanse  of  the  river  from  this  point  to 
the  head  of  the  Lachme  Rapids  is  called  Lake  St.  Louis,  which  is 
12  miles  long  by  5  wide.  One  of  the  most  noticeable  features  of  this 
lake  is  N'u7i's  Island.,  5  miles  below  Beauharnois.  It  was  formerly  an 
Indian  burying-ground,  but  is  now  the  property  of  the  Grey  Xunnery  at 
Montreal,  and  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  Lachme  is  at  the  head  of 
the  *Lachine  Rapids,  which,  though  the  shortest,  are  the  most 
turbulent  and  dangerous  on  the  river.  "  In  the  descent  of  these  we  are 
wrought  to  a  feverish  degree  of  excitement,  exceeding  that  produced  in 
the  descent  of  the  Long  Sault.  It  is  an  intense  sensation,  and,  although 
in  reality  perfectly  safe,  is  terrible  to  the  faint-hearted,  exhilarating  to 
the  brave.  Opposite  Lachine  is  the  quaint  Indian  village  of  Caughna- 
loaga.,  where  dwell  the  descendants  of  the  once  powerful  Iroquois  Na- 
tion. The  immense  steel  bridge  spanning  the  St.  Lawrence  at  this 
point  is  justly  considered  one  of  the  engineering  triumphs  of  the  cent- 
ury. It  was  built  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  is  about  a  mile 
long,  with  two  channel  spans  of  408  feet,  and  lofty  enough  to  allow  free 
passage  to  the  largest  steamers.  From  this  bridge  a  fine  view  is  ob- 
tained of  the  rapids,  the  villages  upon  either  shore,  the  loftier  struct- 
ures of  Montreal,  and  th3  distant  mountains.  As  we  reach  calm  water 
again,  we  can  fairly  distinguish  in  the  growing  night  the  prim  form  of 
the  Victoria  Bridge,  and  the  spires,  domes,  and  towers  of  Montreal,  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  British  North  America." 

Montreal. 

From  New  York,  Montreal  is  reached  by  either  the  Connecticut  Valley  (Route 
30),  or  most  directly  by  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  and  connections.  From  Phila- 
delphia by  Route  32.  From  Boston  by  Route  28  or  Route  29.  From  Portland 
by  Route"26.  From  Quebec  by  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.,  Canadian  Pacific  R.  R.,  or 
by  steamer. 

Hotels.— The  leading  hotels  are  the  Windsor  (in  Dominion  Sq.),  the  St. 
Lawrence  Hall  (in  St.  James  St.),  the  Balmoial  (in  Notre-Dame  St.,  West),  and 
the  Eichelieu  Hotel  (on  Jacques  Cartier  Sq.). 

Modes  of  Conveyance. — Street-cars  traverse  the  city  in  different  direc- 
tions, and  afford  easy  access  to  principal  points.  Carriages  wait  at  the  stations 
and  steamboat-landings,  and  at  various  stands  in  the  city.  Their  charges  are  : 
One-horse  carriage  for  1  or  2  persons,  25c.  a  course  within  the  city  limits,  or  75c. 
an  hour  ;  for  3  or  4  persons,  40c.  a  course,  $1  an  hour.  Two-horse  carriage, 
for  1  or  2  persons,  40c.  a  course,  75c.  an  hour  ;  for  3  or  4  persons,  50c.  a  course, 
$1.25  an  hour.    Stages  run  to  all  the  adjacent  Tillages. 

Montreal,  the  largest  city  and  commercial  metropolis  of  British  North 
America,  is  situated  on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  at  the  confluence  of 


Route  60.]  MONTREAL.  265 

the  Ottawa  and  St.  Lawrence  Rivers,  in  lat.  45"  31'  N.  and  Ion.  'ZS"  35' 
W.  It  derives  its  name  from  Mont  Real,  or  Mount  Royal,  which  rises 
700  ft.  above  the  river,  and  closes  the  city  in  on  that  side.  Including 
its  suburbs,  Montreal  stretches  along  the  river  for  4  miles  from  S.  E.  to 
X.  W.,  and  for  some  distance  extends  from  one  to  two  miles  inland. 
The  houses  are  built  of  a  grayish  limestone  from  adjacent  quarries,  and 
with  its  tall  spires  and  glittering  roofs  the  city  presents  a  picturesque 
panorama.  The  quays  of  Montreal  are  built  of  solid  limestone,  and, 
with  the  locks  and  wharves  of  the  Lachine  Canal,  they  present  for  about 
2  miles  a  display  of  continuous  masonry.  One  of  the  handsomest  build- 
ings among  the  many  notable  structures  in  the  city  is  the  stately  stone 
station  recently  completed  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Co.,  and 
known  as  the  "  Windsor  St.  Station."  Situated  at  one  corner  of  Do- 
minion Sq.,  it  overlooks  the  site  of  the  ice-palaces  and  the  frolicking- 
gruund  during  Montreal's  winter  carnivals.  The  general  offices  of  the 
company  were  moved  here  upon  the  completion  of  the  station.  The  spa- 
cious and  handsome  brick  depot  erected  in  IBS'?  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  Co.,  in  St,  James  St.,  is  also  an  attractive  building.  The  im- 
portant business  streets  are  St.  James,  McGill,  Notre-Dame,  St.  Paul,  St. 
Catherine,  and  Commissioners'  Streets.  The  fashionable  promenades 
are  St.  James,  St.  Catherine,  and  Sherbrooke  Sts. 

The  first  visit  of  a  European  to  Montreal  dates  from  1.535,  when  Jacques 
Cartier  arrived,  who  named  its  mountain.  In  1642  arrived  the  first  installment 
of  European  settlers,  and  the  original  Indian  name  ("Hochelaga")  gave  place 
to  the  French  one  of  "Ville  Marie."  This  name,  in  due  course  of  time,  was 
replaced  by  the  present  one.  By  the  capitulation  of  Montreal  to  Gen.  Amherst, 
in  1760,  all  Canada  was  transferred  from  the  French  to  the  British  crown.  It 
was  captured  by  the  Americans  under  General  Montgomery,  in  November,  17T5, 
and  held  nntU  the  following  summer.  In  1779  Montreal  contained  about  7,000 
inhabitants,  and,  with  the  annexation  of  several  adjacent  villages,  it  had  in- 
creased in  1891  to  216,650.  The  commerce  of  Montreal  is  very  large,  as,  though 
it  is  500  miles  from  the  sea,  its  advantageous  position  at  the  head  of  ship-navi- 
gation, and  at  the  foot  of  the  great  chain  of  improved  inland  waters,  has  made 
it  the  chief  shipping-port  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada. 

The  Victoria  Square  is  a  neat  public  ground  at  the  intersection  of 
McGill  and  St.  James  Sts.,  containing  a  fountain  and  a  bronze  statue  of 
Queen  Victoria.  Fronting  on  the  square  are  a  number  of  fine  build- 
ings, including  the  Albert  Buildings.  Of  the  numerous  public  buildings 
in  the  city  one  of  the  handsomest  is  the  *Bonsecours  Market,  a 
spacious  stone  edifice  in  the  Doric  style,  fronting  on  the  river  and  on 
St,  Paul  St.  The  Custom-Hoiise,  between  Commissioners'  St.  and  the 
river,  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  fort  erected  by  M.  de  Maisonneuve  in 
1642,  which,  with  the  cabins  clustered  around  it,  foi-med  the  nucleus  of 
"  Ville  Marie."  The  Post-Office  is  a  beautiful  cut-stone  edifice  in  St. 
James  St.,  near  the  Place  d'Armes.  The  *  Court-Hoiise,  in  Notre-Dame 
St.,  is  a  large  and  beautiful  building  in  the  Ionic  style,  300  by  125  ft., 
erected  at  a  cost  of  over  .$300,000,  It  contains  a  law  library  of  15,000 
volumes.  Behind  it  is  the  Champ  de  Mars.,  a  fine  military  parade-ground. 
The  *City  Hall  is  a  spacious  and  splendid  edifice  at  the  head  of 
Jacques  Cartier  Square ;  in  it  are  the  offices  of  the  various  civic  and  cor- 
poration functionaries.    The  handsome  building  of  the  Bank  of  Mont* 


266  MONTiiEAL.  l^Route  60. 

real,  in  St,  James  St.,  is  a  fine  example  of  the  Corinthian  style.  Front- 
ing on  Place  d'Armes  Square  are  several  of  the  priacipal  banks  and 
the  building  of  the  New  York  Life  Assurance  Co.  In  St.  James  St., 
E.  of  Victoria  Square,  are  the  elegant  Molsons  Bank,  the  Merchants' 
Bank,  the  Post-  Office,  the  principal  Fire  and  Life  Insurance  Offices,  and 
other  notable  structures.  The  huge  Victoria  Skating-Rink,  in  Drum- 
mond  St.,  is  used  in  summer  for  horticultural  shows,  concerts,  etc.  Me- 
chanics' Institute,  in  St.  James  St.,  is  a  plain  structure  in  the  Italian 
style,  with  an  elaborately  decorated  lecture-room.  The  Windsor  Hotel 
is  one  of  the  finest  edifices  of  the  kind  in  America. 

Few  American  cities  equal  Montreal  in  the  size  and  magnificence  of 
its  church  edifices.  The  Roman  Catholic  Parish  Church  of  *  Notre- 
Dame,  fronting  on  the  Place  d'Armes,  is,  next  to  the  Cathedral  of  Mex- 
ico, the  largest  on  the  continent,  being  255  ft.  long  and  135  ft.  wide,  and 
capable  of  seating  from  10,000  to  12,000  persons.  It  is  of  stone,  in  the 
Gothic  style,  and  has  six  towers,  one  at  each  corner  and  one  in  the  middle 
of  each  flank.  The  two  on  the  main  front  are  220  ft.  high,  and  in  one 
of  them  is  a  fine  chime  of  bells,  the  largest  of  which  (the  "Gros  Bour- 
don") weighs  24,900  pounds.  The  view  from  the  tower,  which  is  in  sum- 
mer open  to  visitors  (25c.),  is  extensive.  Even  this  huge  structure  is 
surpassed  in  size  by  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter,  now  nearly  fin- 
ished, at  the  cor.  of  Dorchester  and  Cathedral  Sts.,  after  the  plan  of  St. 
Peter's  at  Rome.  It  is  300  ft.  long  by  225  ft.  wide  at  the  transepts, 
and  is  surmounted  by  5  domes,  of  which  the  largest  is  250  ft.  high,  sup- 
ported on  4  piers  (each  36  ft.  thick)  and  32  Corinthian  columns.  The 
portico  is  surmounted  by  colossal  statues  of  the  Apostles,  and  affords 
entrance  to  a  vestibule  200  ft.  long  and  30  ft.  wide.  The  interior  colon- 
nades support  lines  of  rounded  arches,  and  there  are  20  minor  chapels. 
*  Christ  Church  Cathedral  (Episcopal),  in  St.  Catherine  St.,  is  the 
most  perfect  specimen  of  English-Gothic  architecture  in  America.  It  is 
crucifoi-m,  built  of  rough  Montreal  stone  with  Caen-stone  facings,  and  is 
surmounted  by  a  spire  224  ft.  high.  St.  James'' s  (Roman  Catholic),  in 
St.  Denis  St.,  is  a  very  elegant  sti-ucture  in  the  pointed  Gothic  style.  St. 
Patriclch  Church  (Roman  Catholic)  occupies  a  commanding  position  at 
the  W.  end  of  Lagauchetiere  St.  It  has  seats  for  5,000  persons,  and  its 
handsome  Gothic  windows  are  filled  with  stained  glass.  The  *  Church 
of  the  Gesu  (Jesuit),  in  Bleury  St.,  has  the  finest  interior  in  the  city. 
The  nave  (75  ft.  high)  is  bordered  by  rich  composite  columns,  and  both 
walls  and  ceilings  are  beautifully  painted  and  frescoed.  The  Notre-Dame 
de  Lourdes  is  richly  decorated  in  Romanesque  style ;  the  Bonsecours, 
originally  built  in  1673,  rebuilt  in  1771,  near  the  great  market,  is  the 
oldest  and  most  picturesque  church  in  the  city.  Tjiere  are  also  chapels 
attached  to  all  the  nunneries.  Besides  Christ  Church  Cathedral,  the 
principal  Episcopal  churches  are  Trinity,  a  fine  stone  edifice  in  the  early 
English-Gothic  style,  in  St.  Denis  St. ;  St.  George's,  in  Dominion  Square  ; 
St.  James  the  Apostle,  in  St.  Catherine  St. ;  St.  Martin's,  in  Upper  St. 
Urbain  St. ;  and  St.  Stephen''s,  in  College  St.  *  St.  Andrew's  Church 
(Pi'esbyterian),  on  Beacon  Hall  Hill,  and  St.  Faidh  (Presbyterian),  in 
Dorchester  St.,  are  beautiful  specimens  of  Gothic  architecture.     Near 


Boute  60.]  MONTKEAL.  267 

the  former  is  the  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitarian),  a  lofty  and  spa- 
cious building.  The  Wesleyan  Methodist^  in  Dorchester  St.,  is  in  the  Eng- 
lish-Gothic style ;  and  to  the  same  denomination  belongs  the  still  more 
stately  edifice  recently  completed  at  the  cor.  of  Alexander  and  St.  Cath- 
erine Sts. 

Chief  among  the  educational  institutions  is  the  University  of  McGill 
College,  which  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  base  of  Mount  Royal, 
overlooking  the  city.  The  musevim  of  this  college  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  country.  The  Museum  of  the  Natural  History  Society^  another  valu- 
able collection,  is  at  the  cor.  of  Cathcart  and  University  Sts.  (admission, 
25c.).  Some  distance  W.  of  McGill  College,  in  Shei^brooke  St.,  is  the 
Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  for  the  education  of  Catholic  priests.  In  the 
same  street,  at  the  foot  of  Laval  Ave.,  is  the  immense  establishment  of 
the  Christian  Brothers.  The  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice  (founded  in  160*7), 
adjoining  the  church  of  Notre-Dame,  is  132  ft.  long  by  29  deep,  and  is 
surrounded  by  spacious  gardens  and  court-yards.  The  Asylum  for  the 
Blind,  in  St.  Catherine  St.  near  St.  George,  has  a  fine  chapel  in  the 
Romanesque  style  with  i-ichly  frescoed  interior.  The  *  Hotel  Dieu, 
founded  in  1644,  is  just  outside  the  city  limits  (reached  by  Mance  St.). 
This  establishment  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph.  The 
Montreal  General  Hospital  and  the  Deaf  ami  Dumb  Asylums  (Protestant 
and  Catholic)  are  noble  charities.  The  Fraser  Institute.,  a  fi'ee  public 
library  and  art-gallery  (cor.  of  Dorchester  St.  and  Union  Ave.),  contains 
a  fine  collection  of  French  works  presented  by  the  Orleans  and  Bona- 
parte families. 

The  *  Grey  Nunnery,  founded  in  1862  for  the  care  of  aged  and 
infirm  persons  and  childi'en,  is  a  vast  cruciform  building  in  Dorchester 
St.,  West.  The  Black  or  Congregational  Nunnery.,  in  Xotre-Dame  St. 
near  the  Place  d'Ai-mes  dates  from  1659,  and  is  devoted  to  the  educa- 
tion of  young  girls.  At  Hochelaga  (at  the  N.  W.  end  of  the  Montreal 
horse-car  line)  is  the  great  convent  of  the  Holy  Names  of  Jesus  and 
Mary.  The  stranger  desirous  of  visiting  any  of  the  nunneries  should 
apply  to  the  Lady  Superior  for  admission. 

Not  as  beautiful  as  the  Canadian  Pacific's  rival  structure,  but  fully 
as  wonderful  from  an  engineering  point  of  view,  is  the  *  Victoria 
Bridge,  which  spans  the  St.  Lawrence,  connecting  the  city  on  the 
island  with  the  mainland  to  the  S.  Its  length  is  9,194  ft.,  or  nearly 
2  miles.  It  rests,  in  this  splendid  transit,  upon  24  piers  and  2  abut- 
ments of  solid  masonry,  the  central  span  being  330  ft.  long.  The  mass- 
ive iron  tube  through  which  the  railway-track  is  laid  is  22  ft.  high  and 
16  ft.  wide.  The  total  cost  of  the  bridge  was  $6,300,000.  It  was  for- 
mally opened  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony  by  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
during  his  visit  to  America  in  the  summer  of  1860.  The  Water  -Works., 
a  mile  or  so  above  the  city,  are  extremely  interesting  for  their  own  sake, 
and  for  the  delightful  scenery  in  the  vicinity.  The  former  Government 
House.,  near  Jacques  Cartier  Square,  and  the  Nelson  Monument  near  by, 
are  objects  of  interest,  though  the  monument  is  in  a  rather  dilapidated 
condition.  The  Mount  Royal  Cemetery  is  2  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
N.  slope  of  the  mountain,  a  broad  avenue  gradually  ascending  to  this 


268  QUEBEC,  [Route  60. 

pleasant  spot.  The  best  views  of  Montreal  and  its  neighborhood  are 
obtained  by  taking  the  famous  drive  ^'■Around  the  Mountain^''''  9  miles 
long.  The  *  Mt.  Royal  Park  should  be  taken  en  route.  A  Botanic 
Garden  is  in  contemplation.  No  visitor  to  Montreal  should  fail  to  see 
the  Lachine  Rapids  (see  present  route),  taking  the  7.55  a.  m.  train 
(from  Bonaventure  station)  to  Lachine,  getting  on  the  steamer  there,  and 
returning  through  the  Rapids  to  Montreal,  aiTiving  at  9.30  a.  m. 

The  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.  run  daily  steamers  during  the 
summer  months  to  Quebec  and  the  lower  river '  ports.  Distance  to  Que- 
bec, 180  miles;  fare,  first  class,  $3.  Varennes  (15  miles  below  Mont- 
real) lies  between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Richelieu  Rivers.  It  is  con- 
nected with  Montreal  by  a  steamboat  line,  and  is  coming  into  notice 
on  account  of  its  mineral  springs.  Sorel  (45  miles  from  Montreal)  is 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Richeheu  Rivers,  and 
is  the  first  point  at  which  the  through  steamers  for  Quebec  make  a  land-, 
ing.  It  is  a  small  city,  but  there  is  good  fishing  in  the  vicinity,  and  in 
the  autumn  excellent  snipe-shooting.  Five  miles  below  Sorel  the  river 
expands  into  Lake  St.  Peter,  which  is  25  miles  long  and  9  wide,  and 
very  shallow,  except  in  the  main  channel,  which  is  crooked  and  narrow, 
but  which  wUl  permit  the  passage  of  the  largest  ships.  This  lake  is 
noted  for  its  storms,  in  which  the  immense  lumber-rafts  that  may  be 
constantly  seen  drifting  down  stream  are  sometimes  wrecked.  Three 
Rivers  {Dti  Fresneh  Hotel)  is  about  half-way  between  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  and  is  the  third  city  in  size  in  the  E.  section  of  the  Province. 
It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice  River,  which  runs  through  a  rich 
lumber-district,  and  brings  to  Three  Rivers  large  quantities  of  logs  and 
manufactured  lumber.  The  city  contains  8,334  inhabitants  and  several 
fine  buildings.  The  St.  Ijeon  Springs,  which  are  among  the  most 
famous  in  Canada,  are  reached  by  a  stage-ride  of  26  miles  from  Three 
Rivers  (fare,  ,$1.50) ;  and  the  Falls  of  the  Shawanegan^  30  miles  up  the 
St.  Maurice  River,  may  be  visited  by  engaging  canoes  and  guides  for  the 
purpose.  The  Falls  have  a  sheer  descent  of  150  ft.,  and  in  magnitude 
are  second  only  to  Niagara.  Below  Three  Rivers  there  is  nothing  worthy 
of  notice  until  Quebec  comes  in  sight,  looming  up  majestically  from  the 
river. 

Quebec. 

From  New  York,  Quebec  is  readied  by  Route  30  (637  miles  ;  fare,  |14.c0).  or 
by  N.  Y.  Central  and  connections  to  Montreal ;  thence  by  Grand  Trunk  or  Ca- 
nadian Pacific  Railway.  From  Boston  by  Route  27,  connecting  with  Route  30 
at  White  River  Junction  ;  or  via  Portland.  From  Portland  by  Route  26.  The 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  has  its  terminus  at  Point  Levi,  and  passengers  cross  to 
Quebec  by  ferry.  The  Quebec  &  Lake  St.  John  Railway  runs  to  Roberval  (190 
miles).  The  Quebec  Central  Railway  runs  to  Beauce  and  Sherbrooke.  The 
Intercolonial  Railway  runs  to  Halifax,  N.  S.  (678  miles). 

Hotels.— The  i^/ore/ice,  in  St.  John  St.  ;  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  in  St.  Louis 
St.;  MoKntaih  Hill  House,  in  Mountain  St. ;  and  Blanchard's,  in  the  Lower 
Town.    The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  is  building  a  large  hotel. 

Modes  of  Conveyance. — Street-cars  (fare  5c.)  traverse  the  streets  along 
the  river  in  the  Lower  Town  and  extend  to  the  suburbs.^  A  second  line  runs 
along  St.  John  St.  in  the  Upper  Town.  Carriages  or  ca^'eches  may  be  hired  at 
the  livery-stables,  and  on  the  cab-stands  near  the  hotels  and  markets.  The 
caliche,  a  two-wheeled  one-horse  apparatus,  is  the  usual  vehicle,  and  costs 


Route  60.]  QITEBEa  269 

about  75c.  an  hour.  Fences  connect  the  city  with  South  Quebec,  New  Liver- 
pool, and  Point  Levi,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  run  three 
times  a  day  to  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  An  elevator  runs  from  Champlain  St.  to 
Dufferin  Terrace  in  the  summer  only. 

Quebec,  the  oldest  and  after  Montreal  and  Toronto  the  most  impor- 
tant city  in  British  America,  is  situated  on  the  N.  W.  bank  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  River,  at  its  confluence  with  the  St.  Charles,  nearly  300  miles 
from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  The  city  is  built  on  the  N.  extremity 
of  an  elevated  tongue  of  land  which  forms  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence for  several  miles.  Cape  Diamond,  so  called  from  the  numerous 
quartz-crystals  formerly  found  there,  is  the  loftiest  part  of  the  headland, 
333  ft.  above  the  stream,  and  is  crowned  with  the  vast  fortifications  of 
the  Citadel.  These  occupy  about  40  acres,  and  were  once  considered 
so  impregnable  that  they  obtained  for  Quebec  the  appellation  of  the 
"Gibraltar  of  America."  From  the  citadel  a  line  of  wall  runs  W. 
toward  the  clifi's  overhanging  the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  and  is 
thence  continued  around  the  brow  of  the  promontory  till  it  connects 
once  more  with  Cape  Diamond  near  the  Governor's  Garden.  This  cir- 
cuit is  nearly  3  miles  in  extent.  The  city  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Town,  the  ascent  from  the  latter  being  by  a  very  steep  and  wind- 
ing street  (Mountain  St.,  or  Cote  de  la  Montagne).  The  Upper  Town  com- 
prises the  walled  city  with  the  two  suburbs  of  St.  Louis  and  St.  John, 
between  the  walls  and  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  The  Lower  Town, 
where  most  of  the  leading  wholesale  houses  are  situated,  is  built  around 
the  base  of  the  promontory.  A  very  large  part  of  the  city  within  the 
walls,  or  the  Upper  Town  proper,  is  taken  up  with  the  buildings  and 
grounds  of  the  great  religious  corporations.  Over  the  remaining  irregu- 
lar surface,  not  covered  by  fortifications,  are  crowded  the  quaint  media3- 
val  streets  and  dwellings,  built  generally  of  stone,  two  or  three  stories 
high,  and  roofed,  like  the  public  buildings,  with  shining  tin.  The  five 
original  gates  in  the  city-wall  were  removed  some  years  ago,  but  three 
others  of  a  more  ornamental  character  have  since  been  built.  Kent 
Oate^  named  in  honor  of  the  Duke  of  Kent,  father  of  Queen  Victoria, 
is  situated  in  St.  Patrick  St.  St.  Louis  Gate  is  in  St.  Louis  St.,  and 
St.  Johii's  Gate  is  in  St.  John  St. 

The  site  of  Quebec  was  visited  by  Cartier  in  1535,  and  the  city  was  founded 
by  Champlain  in  1608.  It  was  taken  by  the  English  in  1629,  and  restored  to 
Prance  by  the  treaty  of  1682.  In  1690  the  neighboring  English  colonies  made  an 
unsuccessful  maritime  expedition  against  it :  and  in  1711  the  attempt  was  re- 
newed, with  no  better  success.  In  1734  the  city  had,  including  its  suburbs, 
4,603  inhabitants.  In  17.59,  during  the  Seven  Year.>'  War.  the  English,  under 
General  Wolfe,  attacked  the  city  and  bombarded  it.  On  Sept.  13th  took  place 
the  first  battle  of  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  in  which  both  Wolfe  and  Montcalm, 
the  French  commander,  fell,  and  England  gained  at  one  blow  an  American  em- 
pire. The  French,  indeed,  recaptured  the  city  the  next  spring,  but  at  the 
treaty  of  peace  in  1763  Louis  XV  ceded  the  whole  of  New  France  to  the  Eng- 
lish. In  December,  1775,  a  small  American  force,  under  General  Montgomery, 
attempted  its  capture,  but  failed,  after  losing  700  men  and  their  commander. 
The  population  of  the  city  at  that  time  was  only  5,000.  In  1861  it  was  59,990, 
and  in  1871,  59,699,  the  decrease  being  attributed  to  the  withdi'awal  of  the  Brit- 
ish troops  forming  the  garrison.  In  1891  the  population  of  Quebec  was  63,090, 
according  to  the  census.  Quebec  has  a  large  maritime  commerce,  and  is  one  of 
the  greatest  lumber  and  timber  markets  on  the  American  Continent.     The 


270  QUEBEC.  [Boute  60. 

principal  articles  of  manufacture  are  saw-mill  products,  boots  and  shoes,  bakery- 
products,  confectionery,  furniture,  foundry  products  and  machinery,  worsted 
goods,  cutlery,  ropes  and  twines,  tobaccos,  "leather,  paper,  etc. 

The  point  to  which  the  attention  of  the  stranger  in  Quebec  is  first 
directed  is  *Dufferin  Terrace,  which  lies  along  the  edge  of  the  cliff, 
towering  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  overlooking  the  Lower  Town. 
Part  of  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Chateau  of  St.  Louis,  built  by 
Champlain  in  1620,  and  destroyed  by  fire  in  1834.  DufCerin  Terrace, 
which  was  opened  to  the  public  in  June,  18*79,  by  the  Marquis  of  Lome 
and  Princess  Louise,  is  an  unequaled  promenade  over  ^  mile  long.  The 
outlook  from  the  Terrace  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  is  of  itself 
worth  a  trip  to  Quebec.  The  Esplanade^  near  the  St.  Louis  Gate,  is  an- 
other attractive  promenade ;  and  the  walk  along  the  Ramparts,  between 
the  St.  Louis  Gate  and  St.  John's  Gate,  aifords  prospects  rivaled  by  few 
in  Amei'ica.  The  view  from  the  Grand  Battery,  near  the  Laval 
University,  is  considered  by  many  to  be  finer  even  than  that  from  Duf- 
ferin  Terrace ;  and  that  from  the  vast  balcony  of  the  University  build- 
ing is  still  more  impressive.  The  Place  (P Amies,  or  Parade-Ground,  is 
a  pretty  little  park  adorned  with  a  fine  fountain,  lying  between  Duiferin 
Terrace  and  the  Anglican  Cathedral,  which  is  a  plain,  gray-stone 
edifice,  surmounted  by  a  tall  spire,  standing  in  St.  Ann  St.  on  the  site 
to  which  tradition  points  as  the  spot  where  Champlain  erected  his  first 
tent.  Adjoining  the  Cathedral  is  the  rectory  and  the  pretty  little 
Chapel  of  All  Saints.  Des  Carrieres  St.,  running  S.  from  the  Place 
d'Armes,  leads  to  the  Governor''s  Garden,  containing  an  obelisk  65  ft. 
high  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm.  Des  Carrieres  St.  also 
leads  to  the  inner  glacis  of  The  Citadel,  a  powerful  fortification, 
covering  40  acres  of  ground  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond. 

Market  Square,  on  which  has  recently  been  erected  a  beautiful 
bronze  fountain,  is  in  the  center  of  the  Upper  Town,  surrounded  by 
more  or  less  striking  buildings.  On  the  E.  side  is  the  *  Basilica 
of  Quebec  (formerly  the  Cathedral),  a  spacious  cut-stone  building, 
216  ft.  long  and  180  ft.  wide,  and  capable  of  seating  4,000  persons. 
The  exterior  of  the  edifice  is  very  plain,  but  the  interior  is  richly  deco- 
rated, and  contains  several  original  paintings  of  great  value  by  Vandyke, 
Caracci,  Halle,  and  others.  In  this  Basilica  lie  the  remains  of  Cham- 
plain, the  founder  and  first  governor  of  the  city.  Adjoining  the  Ba- 
silica on  the  N.  are  the  quaint  buildings  of  the  Seminary  of  Quebec, 
founded  in  1663  by  M.  de  Laval,  first  bishop  of  Quebec.  The  Semi- 
nary Chapel  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  188'7,  but  has  since  been  i-ebuilt. 
All  the  rare  and  priceless  works  of  art  were  burned.  The  *  Ijaval 
University,  founded  in  1852,  occupies  three  very  imposing  build- 
ings. They  are  of  cut  stone,  576  ft.  long  (the  main  building  being  286 
ft.),  five  stories  high,  and  costing  $240,000.  The  chemical  laboratory  is 
spacious,  fire-proof,  and  provided  with  complete  apparatus ;  the  geologi- 
cal, mineralogical,  and  botanical  collections  are  very  valuable ;  the  mu- 
seum of  zoology  contains  upward  of  1,300  different  birds  and  7,000  in- 
sects ;  and  the  museum  of  the  medical  department  is  especially  complete. 
The  Library  numbers  more  than  95,000  volumes,  and  the  ^Picture 


h 


Route  60.'\  QUEBEC.  271 

Gallery  (always  open  to  the  public)  is  one  of  the  richest  in  Canada, 
and  contams  many  important  works  of  art.  On  the  W.  side  of  Market 
Square  is  the  site  of  the  old  Jesuits'  College  buildings.  Morrin  College 
occupies  the  old  stone  prison  at  the  cor.  of  St.  Ann  and  Stanislas  Sts.  In 
this  building  are  the  library  (14,500  volumes)  and  museum  of  the  Quebec 
Literary  and  Historical  Society^  with  its  rich  collection  of  MSS.  relating 
to  the  early  history  of  the  country.  The  High  School  on  the  Cape  has 
200  students,  an  excellent  library,  and  a  small  natural  history  collection. 

In  Donnaconna  St.,  off  Garden,  is  the  *UrsuUne  Convent,  a 
series  of  buildings  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds.  It  was  founded 
in  1639,  and  now^  has  40  nuns,  who  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and 
also  to  painting,  needle-work,  etc.  The  parlor  and  chapel  are  open  to 
visitors,  and  in  the  latter  are  rare  carvings  on  ivory  and  some  fine 
paintings  by  Vandyke,  Champagne,  and  others.  The  remains  of  the 
Marquis  de  Montcalm  are  buried  here  in  an  excavation  made  by  the 
bursting  of  a  shell  within  the  precincts  of  the  convent.  His  skull  is 
preserved  in  the  parlor  of  the  chaplain.  The  Grey  Nunnery  is  a  spa- 
cious building  on  the  glacis  W.  of  the  ramparts,  and  contains  about 
75  Sisters.  The  *  Chapel  adjoining  the  nunnery  is  a  lofty  and  ornate 
Gothic  edifice,  with  a  rich  interior.  Near  by  (in  St.  John  St.  near  St. 
Clair)  is  the  Roman  Catholic  church  of  St..  John^  which  replaces  the 
large  structure  destroyed  by  fire  some  years  ago.  The  *Il6tel  Dien, 
with  its  convent  and  hospital,  stands  in  Palace  St.,  near  the  rampart. 
It  was  founded  in  1639  by  the  Duchess  d'Aiguillon,  and  in  1875  com- 
prised 45  Sisters  of  the  Sacred  Blood  of  Dieppe,  who  minister  gratwi- 
tously  to  10,000  patients  yearly.  In  the  Convent  Chapel  are  some  valu- 
able paintings.  The  Black  Nunnery  is  in  the  suburbs  of  St.  Eoch's. 
Application  to  the  Lady  Superiors  will  usually  secure  admittance  to  the 
nunneries. 

The  Post-Office  is  a  handsome  stone  edifice  at  the  cor.  of  Buade 
and  Du  Fort  Sts.  Near  by  is  the  Cardinal's  Palace^  a  stately  and  hand- 
some structure.  Other  noteworthy  buildings  in  the  Upper  To-wn  are 
the  City  Hall^  the  Quebec  Academy  of  Music,  the  Masonic  Hall  and 
the  Garrison  Clab,  in  St.  Louis  St.  On  Grande  Allee  are  situated  the 
Skatbig-JRink,  the  ^Farliament  and  Departmental  Buildings, 
w^hich  were  begun  in  1878,  and  the  Armory  and  Exhibition  Build- 
ing, a  beautiful  structure.  The  Cotirt-House,  finished  in  1888,  is 
on  the  cor.  of  St.  Louis  St.  and  Place  d'Armes.  Among  noteworthy 
churches  are  the  Methodist  Church  in  St.  Stanislas  St.,  a  fine  specimen 
of  the  flamboyant  Gothic  style;  St.  Matthew^ s  (Episcopal),  in  St.  John 
St. ;  St.  Andrew^s  (Presbyterian),  at  the  intersection  of  St.  Ann  and  St. 
Stanislas  Sts.,  a  spacious  stone  structure  in  the  Gothic  stjde ;  Chalmers 
(Presbyterian),  in  St.  Ursule  St. ;  St.  Fcdrick\s  (Roman  Catholic),  in  Mc- 
Mahon  St.,  and  St.  Sauveicr  and  St.  Hoch^s,  in  the  suburbs.  The  fine 
and  spacious  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Hall  is  in  St.  John  St.,  just  without  St.  John's 
Gate.  There  are  a  good  library,  lecture-room,  and  reading-rooms,  etc., 
opposite  to  which  is  the  Montcalm  Market  Square  and  Hall.  The 
Institut  Canadien  is  in  Fabrique  St.,  and  in  Ann  St.  is  situated  the 
Woman's  Chinstian  Association. 


2T2  QtlEBEC.  [Boute  60. 

Just  N.  of  Dufferin  Terrace  is  the  head  of  Mountain  Hill  St.,  which 
descends  to  the  Lower  Town.  To  the  right  is  a  picturesque  stairway, 
called  the  *  Champlain  Steps,  or  Cote  de  la  Montague,  which  leads  down 
to  the  church  of  Notre-Dame  des  Victoires,  erected  in  1690  on  the  site 
of  Champlain's  residence.  S.  of  the  church  is  the  Champlain  Marlcet, 
a  spacious  structure  on  the  river-bank,  near  the  landing  of  the  river 
steamers.  St.  Peter  St.,  running  N.  between  the  cliff  and  the  river,  is 
the  main  business  thoroughfare  of  this  quarter,  and  contains  the  great 
commercial  establishments,  banking-houses,  w^holesale  stores,  etc.  St. 
Paid  St.  stretches  W.  on  the  narrow  strand  between  the  cliff  and  the 
St.  Charles,  amid  breweries  and  manufactories,  till  it  meets,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Charles,  St.  Joseph  St.,  the  main  ai"tery  of  the  large  sub- 
urb of  St.  Roch's.  On  the  banks  of  the  St.  Charles  are  the  principal  ship- 
yards, once  so  thriving ;  and  the  numerous  coves  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
from  Champlain  St.  to  Cape  Rouge,  are  filled  with  acres  of  vast  lumber- 
rafts.  On  the  opposite  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are  the  populous 
towns  of  South  Quebec,  Isew  Liverpool,  and  Point  Levi,  which  present 
a  scene  of  activity  scarcely  surpassed  by  the  city  itself.  The  *  Cus- 
tom-House  is  reached  from  St.  Peter  St.  by  Leadenhall  St.,  and  occu- 
pies the  very  apex  of  the  point  made  by  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  the  St.  Charles  Rivers,  It  is  an  imposing  Doric  edifice,  with  a 
dome,  and  a  fagade  of  noble  columns,  approached  by  a  long  flight 
of  steps.  The  Marine  and  Emigrants'  Hospital,  built  on  the 
model  of  the  Temple  of  the  Muses  on  the  banks  of  the  Ilissus,  is  near 
the  St.  Charles  River,  and  ^  mile  farther  up  the  river  is  the  General 
Hospital.  This  institution  was  founded  in  1693,  and  is  under  the 
charge  of  the  nuns  of  St.  Augustine.  Overlooking  St.  Roch's  suburbs 
is  the  Jeffery  Hale  Hospital.     The  F'mlay  Asylum  is  on  Ste.  Foye  road. 

The  suburbs  of  St.  Louis  and  St.  John  stretch  S.  and  W.  along  the 
plateau  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  are  constantly  encroaching  on  the  his- 
toric Plains  of  Abraham.  They  contain  many  handsome  private  resi- 
dences, and  several  large  conventual  establishments  and  churches. 
The  best  approach  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham  is  by  Grande  Allee,  which 
commences  at  the  St.  Louis  Gate  and  the  Martello  Towers,  four  circular 
stone  structures  erected  in  1807-12  to  defend  the  approaches  to  the  city. 
On  the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell  in  the  memorable  battle  of  September  13, 
1759,  stands  Wolfe's  Monument,  a  modest  column  appropriately  in- 
scribed. A  short  distance  to  the  left  is  the  path  by  which  his  army 
scaled  the  cliffs  on  the  night  before  the  battle ;  it  is  somewhat  shorn  of 
its  rugged  character,  but  is  still  precipitous  and  forbidding.  On  the 
Plains,  near  the  Ste.  Foye  road,  stands  the  Monument  commemoi^ating 
the  victory  won  by  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  over  General  Murray  in  1760. 
It  is  a  handsome  iron  column,  surmounted  by  a  bronze  statue  of 
Bellona  (presented  by  Prince  Napoleon),  and  was  erected  in  1854. 
About  3  miles  out  on  the  St.  Louis  road  are  Mount  Hermon  Ceme- 
tery, 32  acres  in  extent,  beautifully  laid  out  on  irregular  ground,  slop- 
ing down  to  the  precipices  which  overhang  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  St. 
Patricks  (R.  C.)  Cemetery. 

Within  excursion  distance  of  Quebec  are  several  points  of  interest 


el 


Boute  6G.'\  THE    ST.    LAWRENCE   EIVEE.  273 

which  the  tourist  should  not  fail  to  visit.  The  Isle  of  Orleans  (reached 
by  ferry)  is  a  beautiful  spot,  and  the  drive  around  it  a  succession  of 
noble  views.  There  are  also  pleasant  drives  to  Spencer  Wood^  the 
beautiful  residence  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Province,  and  to 
Chateau  Bigot,  an  antique  ruin,  standing  in  solitary  loneliness  at  the 
foot  of  the  Charlesbourg  Mountain.  Lorette,  an  ancient  village  of  the 
Huron  Indians,  is  reached  by  a  9-mile  drive  along  the  banks  of  the 
Little  River  road.  The  falls  near  the  village  are  very  picturesque, 
and  Lake  St.  Charles,  a  famous  fishing-place,  is  only  a  few  miles  off. 
The  *  Falls  of  Montmorencl,  8  miles  below  Quebec,  are  250  ft. 
high  and  50  ft.  wide,  and  are  wonderfully  beautiful.  The  Falls  may 
now  be  visited  by  rail,  the  Montmorency  and  Charlevoix  Railway  run- 
ning twice  a  day  each  way.  A  short  distance  above  the  Falls  is  the 
"  Mansion  House,"  in  which  the  Duke  of  Kent  passed  the  summer  of 
1Y91 ;  and  about  1  mile  above  are  the  curious  Natural  Steps,  a  succes- 
sion of  ledges  cut  by  the  river  in  the  limestone  rock,  each  about  1  ft. 
high,  and  as  regularly  arranged  as  if  tliey  were  the  work  of  human 
hands.  The  *  Falls  of  Chaudiere  (10  miles)  are  reached  via  Point 
Levi,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  rapid  river  plunges, 
in  a  sheet  350  ft.  wide,  over  a  precipice  150  ft.  high,  presenting  very 
Tnuch  the  look  of  boiling  water,  whence  its  name,  Chaudiere,  or  caldron. 


The  regular  tour  of  the  St,  Lawrence  usually  ends  at  Quebec,  but  the 
Lower  River  is  well  worth  visiting  by  all  lovers  of  fine  scenery.  The  ex- 
cursion may  be  made  by  the  steamers  of  the  Quebec  Steamship  Co.,  one  of 
which  leaves  Quebec  on  alternate  Tuesdays  at  2  p.  ivr.,  and  runs  to  Pictou, 
Nova  Scotia,  stopping  at  intermediate  ports.  The  distance  to  Gaspe,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  443  miles ;  to  Charlottetown,  784  miles ;  to 
Pictou,  829  miles.  The  steamers  of  this  line  make  no  stoppage  be- 
tween Quebec  and  Father  Point  (142  miles),  but  the  intermediate  points 
may  be  reached  by  railway  or  by  local  steamboat  lines. 

The  steamers  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.  leave  Quebec  at 
7.30  A.  M.  on  Tuesdays,  WednesdaySj^  Fridays,  and  Saturdays  for  St.  Paul's  Bay, 
Les  Eboulements,  Murray  Bay,  Riviere  du  Loup  (Cacomia),  Tadousac,  Ha  !  Ha  ! 
Bay,  and  Chicoutuni.  At  noon  on  Saturdays  for  Murray  Bay  and  Riviere  du 
Loup. 

The  Quarantine  for  Quebec  is  at  Gy^osse  Isle,  30  miles  down ;  and  6 
miles  below  is  a  group  of  islets,  of  which  the  chief,  united  by  a  belt  of 
lowland,  are  Crane  Island  and  Goose  Island.  They  are  the  resort  and 
breeding-place  of  numerous  ducks,  geese,  and  teal,  to  say  nothing  of 
smaller  game.  Chateau  Richer  is  a  thriving  little  village  on  the  N. 
shore,  much  resorted  to  by  sportsmen.  Ducks,  parti^idges,  and  snipe 
abound  in  the  vicinity,  and  on  the  streams  near  by  good  trout -fishing 
may  be  had.  A  few  miles  below  Chateau  Richer  is  Ste,  Anne  de 
Beaupre,  noted  for  its  Church  of  Ste.  Anne,  in  which  miraculous 
cures  are  said  to  be  effected  by  the  relics  of  the  saint,  which  are  exhibited 
at  morning  mass.  This  church  contains  a  variety  of  paintings,  and  is 
well  worth  a  visit.  The  celebrated  Falls  of  Ste.  Anne  are  on  the 
Ste.  Anne  River,  3  or  4  miles  from  the  village.  The  lower  fall  is  130 
18 


274  THE    ST.    LAWRENCE   RIVER.  [Eoute  60. 

ft.  high,  and  below  it  the  water  rushes  down  through  a  rugged,  somber, 
and  picturesque  ravine.  The  Valley  of  St.  Fereol.^  the  Seven  Falls.,  and 
Mt.  Ste.  An7ie,  are  other  objects  of  interest  in  the  neighborhood.  Eight 
miles  below  Ste.  Anne  is  Cape  Tourment,  a  bold  promontory,  from 
the  summit  of  which  there  is  a  superb  view,  A  little  beyond  are  the 
frowning  peaks  of  Cape  Rouge  and  Cape  Girihaiine.  From  Goose 
Island  to  the  Saguena}-  Kiver  the  St.  Lawrence  is  about  20  miles  wide. 
The  water  is  salt,  but  clear  and  deep,  and  the  spring-tides  rise  and  fall 
18  ft.  The  black  seal,  the  white  porpoise,  and  the  black  whale  are 
sometimes  seen.  St.  PauVs  Bay,  55  miles  from  Quebec,  is  a  popular 
resort,  and  claims  to  offer  more  attractions  to  the  tourist,  the  poet,  or 
the  naturalist,  than  any  other  parish  in  the  Province.  It  is  surrounded 
by  grand  scenery.  Murray  Bay  (82  miles  below  Quebec)  is  a  popular 
watering-place,  surrounded  by  wild  scenery,  and  noted  for  the  fine  fish- 
ing in  Murray  River,  and  the  Gravel  and  Petit  Lakes.  There  are  several 
hotels  and  large  boarding-houses  here,  besides  summer  cottages,  and  a 
daily  steamer  from  Quebec  renders  it  easy  of  access.  Riviere  du 
liOiip  is  a  favorite  summer  resort  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  river,  112  miles 
from  Quebec.  It  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Du  Loup  River,  and 
commands  a  fine  prospect  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  at  this  point  is  20 
miles  wide.  About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  a  *  waterfall,  where  the 
Du  Loup,  after  rushing  for  a  while  over  a  rocky  bed,  dashes  in  a  sheet 
of  foam  over  a  precipice  80  ft.  high,  LaJce  Temiscoiiata  is  reached  from 
Riviere  du  Loup  by  the  Grand  Portage  Road,  a  distance  of  36  miles. 
Only  a  few  cabins  dot  the  shores  on  this  lovely  lake,  and  it  is  just  the 
place  for  the  seeker  after  solitude  and  trout.  Cacouna,  6  miles  below 
Riviere  du  Loup,  is  the  favorite  summer  resort  of  the  Canadians,  and  is 
a  very  attractive  village,  combining  picturesque  scenery,  good  hotels, 
fine  hunting  and  fishing,  and  admirable  sea-bathing,  for  at  this  point  the 
water  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  almost  as  salt  as  that  of  the  ocean.  The 
St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  a  lax'ge,  first-class  hotel,  overlooking  the  river  (with 
a  capacity  of  600  guests).  The  Mansion  House  is  also  very  comfortable, 
and  there  are  several  large  summer  boarding-houses.  The  air  of  Cacouna 
is  pure  and  bracing,  and  remarkably  cool  in  summer ;  and  there  is  much 
pleasing  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village.  Nearly  opposite  Cacouna 
is  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  River  (see  Route  61),  which  is  one  of 
the  most  striking  points  on  the  entire  river.  Just  below  (148  miles 
from  Quebec)  is  Trois  Pistoles,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the 
same  name,  famed  for  its  fish.  There  are  two  hotels  hei'e,  and  several 
summer  cottages,  and  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  pleasing.  Thirty 
miles  below  Trois  Pistoles  are  the  island  promontory  and  harbor  of  Le 
Bic  (the  Eagle's  Beak),  an  ancient  landing-place,  still  honored.  Near  it 
is  H' Islet  au  Massacre.,  remembered  as  the  scene  of  the  bloody  massacre 
of  all  but  5  out  of  200  Micmac  Indians  by  their  Iroquois  foes.  Riinou° 
ski  (180  miles  from  Quebec)  has  an  extensive  govermnent  wharf,  and 
contains  a  splendid  Cathedral,  a  number  of  handsome  houses,  and  two 
good  hotels.  This  is  a  place  at  which  the  tourist  should  stop,  for  the 
scenery  of  the  valley  of  the  Rimouski  is  extremely  beautiful,  and  the 
trout-fishing  unrivaled.     Twenty  miles  below  Rimouski  is  3IetiSj  the 


Boute  61.]        '         THE    SAGUENAY   RIVER.  275 

site  of  the  largest  and  longest  of  the  government  wharves.  It  is  noted 
as  a  whale-fishing  station.  Some  50  miles  farther  down,  we  reach  the 
Point  de  Monts^  on  the  N.  coast,  and  Cape  Chatte^  a  few  miles  above 
Ste.  Anne,  the  most  northerly  town  on  the  S.  coast  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Here  are  the  last  approaches  of  the  two  shores.  Beyond  the  Point  de 
Monts  the  N.  shore  makes  a  sharp  turn  to  the  northward,  and  in  that 
direction  we  speedily  have  a  sea-horizon.  Rounding  now  the  great 
shoulder  of  the  Province  of  Quebec,  we  come,  on  the  E.  side,  to  Cape 
Rosier,  passing  meanwhile  the  S.  W.  half  of  the  desert  Anficosti 
Island.  Here  ends  our  present  tour.  Those  who  pursue  the  journey  to 
Pictou  and  Halifax  soon  enter  the  region  described  in  Route  65.  (Also 
see  for  detailed  description  The  Canadian  (tdide-Book,  Part  I,  Eastern 
Canada,  published  by  D.  Appleton  &  Co.) 

61.  The  Saguenay  River. 

steamers  leave  Quebec  at  7.30  a.  m.  on  Tuesdays,  Wednesdays,  Fridays,  and 
Saturdays  for  Chicoutimi,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay;  and  on 
Wednesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturday's  for  Ha  !  Ha  !  Bay.  The  trip  from  Que- 
bec to  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  inckades  some  of  the  most  impressive  portions 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  scenery,  and  is  described  in  Route  59.  It  should  be  men- 
tioned that  the  steamers  usually  make  the  trip  tqj  the  Saguenay  during  the  night, 
so  that  the  best  views  of  the  river  are  obtained  on  the  return-voyage  the  nest 
day.  Distances  :  Quebec  to  Tadousac,  134  miles  ;  Tadousac  to  Ste.  Marguerite 
River,  15  miles  ;  to  St.  Louis  Isle,  19  ;  to  Little  Saguenay  River,  27  ;  to  St.  John's 
Bay,  32  ;  to  Eternitv  Bay,  41 ;  to  Trinity  Bav,  48  ;  to  Cape  Rouge,  56  ;  to  Cape 
East,  63  ;  to  Cape  West,  65  ;  to  St.  Alphonse,  72  ;  to  Chicoutimi,  100. 

The  Saguenay  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  un- 
questionably one  of  the  most  remarkable  rivers  in  the  world.  Its  head- 
water is  Lake  St.  John,  40  miles  long  and  nearly  as  wide,  which,  al- 
though 1 1  large  rivers  fall  into  it,  has  no  other  outlet  than  the  Saguenay. 
The  original  name  of  this  river  was  Chicoutimi,  an  Indian  word  signi- 
fying deep  water ;  and  its  present  one  is  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  Saint 
Jean  Nez.  The  course  of  the  Saguenay — between  lofty  and  precipitous 
cliifs,  and  in  its  upper  part  amid  rushing  cataracts — is  about  140  miles 
from  Lake  St.  John  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  it  enters  120  miles 
below  Quebec.  Large  vessels  ascend  as  far  as  Chicoutimi,  98  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  Saguenay  is  a  neai^ly  straight  river, 
with  grand  precipices  on  either  side  for  almost  its  entire  length,  and  a 
peculiarly  stern,  somber,  savage,  and  impressive  aspect.  Says  Bayard 
Taylor :  "  The  Saguenay  is  not  properly  a  river.  It  is  a  tremendous 
chasm,  like  that  of  the  Jordan  Valley  and  the  Dead  Sea,  cleft  for  60 
miles  through  the  heart  of  a  mountain  wilderness.  .  .  .  Evernhing  is 
hard,  naked,  stern,  silent.  Dark-gray  cliifs  of  granite  gneiss  rise  from 
the  pitch-black  water  ;  firs  of  gloomy  green  are  rooted  in  their  crevices 
and  fringe  their  summits  ;  loftier  ranges  of  a  dull  indigo  hue  show  them- 
selves in  the  background ;  and  over  all  bends  a  pale,  cold,  northern  sky." 

Tadousac  is  a  small  village  situated  a  short  distance  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  135  miles  from  Quebec.  Apart  from  its  attrac- 
tions as  a  watering-place,  it  is  interesting  as  the  spot  on  which  stood 
the  first  stoue-and-mortar  building  ever  erected  by  Europeans  on  the 


276  THE    SAGUENAY   EIVEE.  {Route  61. 

Continent  of  America.  The  scenery  here  is  wild  and  romantic  in  the  ex- 
treme, and  the  adjacent  waters  abound  in  excellent  salmon  and  trout.  The 
Tadousac  Hotel  is  a  large,  admirably  kept,  and  comfortable  house,  and 
there  are  several  summer  cottages.  Near  the  hotel  are  the  ancient 
buildings  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  and  just  E.  is  the  quaint  old  Chapel 
of  the  Jesuit  Mission,  erected  in  1746.  The  steamer  stops  long  enough 
at  Tadousac  to  afford  the  passengers  ample  opportunity  for  seeing  the 
sights.  Just  above  Tadousac  is  the  pretty  little  cove  of  L''Anse  ci  I  Eaii, 
which  is  a  fishing-station,  and  here  begins  one  of  the  most  somber  and 
desolate  stretches  of  the  river.  The  banks  on  either  hand  consist  of 
immense  perpendicular  chfEs,  which  are  evidently  prolonged  far  below 
the  surface  of  the  water.  Now  and  then  a  massive  promontory  en- 
croaches upon  the  channel,  and  at  rarer  intervals  the  river  widens  out 
into  what  are  called  bays,  but  would  scarcely  be  called  coves  on  any 
other  stream.  About  15  miles  above  Tadousac,  after  passing  Foint 
Crepe,  the  Ste.  Marguerite  River,  famous  for  its  salmon-fisheries,  comes 
in  on  the  right ;  and  2  miles  beyond  the  steamer  skirts  the  shore  of  the 
desolate  St.  Louis  Isle,  in  whose  deep  waters  salmon-trout  abound. 
About  30  miles  above  Tadousac  is  St.  John's  Bay,  which  is  3  miles 
long  and  2  wide,  and  on  the  shore  of  which  is  one  of  the  few  small  set- 
tlements that  the  Saguenay  can  boast.  Nine  miles  above  is  *  Eternity 
Bay,  the  most  striking  feature  of  the  river-scenery.  It  is  a  narrow 
cove,  flanked  at  the  entrance  by  two  precipices,  each  rising  almost  per- 
pendicularly 1,600  ft.  above  the  water.  The  steepest  is  *  Cape  Trin- 
ity, so  called  because  of  the  three  distinct  peaks  on  its  N.  summit ; 
and  that  on  the  other  side  is  Cape  Eternity.  Speaking  of  these  awful 
cliffs.  Bayard  Taylor  says :  "  I  doubt  whether  a  sublimer  picture  of  the  wil- 
derness is  to  be  found  on  this  continent."  Farther  on,  *  Statue  Point, 
a  grand  bowlder,  1,000  ft.  high,  is  noticeable  for  a  cave  half  way  up  its 
face,  utterly  inaccessible  from  above  or  below,  having  an  orifice  prob- 
ably 40  ft.  in  diameter.  Still  farther  above  is  Le  Tableau,  a  lofty  pla- 
teau of  dark-colored  granite,  600  ft.  high  and  300  wide,  smooth  as 
though  cut  by  the  hand  of  art,  and  terminating  suddenly  in  a  single 
perpendicular  rOck  900  ft.  high.  A  few  miles  beyond  is  the  entrance 
to  Ha  !  Ha  !  Bay,  which  runs  7  miles  S.  W.  from  the  Saguenay, 
and  is  a  mile  wide.  Ha !  Ha !  Bay  was  so  named  because  of  the  delight- 
ful contrast  which  the  first  French  voyagers  there  beheld  after  the  awful 
solitude  of  the  lower  river.  Its  upper  end  is  surrounded  by  undulating 
meadow-lauds,  and  on  its  shores  are  the  two  small  villages  of  St.  Alphonse 
and  St.  Alexis.  Chicoutimi  (about  20  miles  above  Ha !  Ha !  Bay)  is 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  river,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 
It  has  a  good  hotel,  a  cathedral  and  convent,  and  a  stone  college  of  am- 
bitious pretensions.  The  Chicoutimi  River  swarms  with  fish,  and,  just 
before  it  enters  the  Saguenay,  plunges  over  a  granite  ledge  50  ft.  high. 
Nine  miles  above  Chicoutimi  begin  the  Rapids  of  the  Saguenay,  said  to 
be  little  inferior  in  grandeur  to  those  of  the  Niagara,  and  a  great  deal 
longer.  Lake  St.  John  is  60  miles  W.  of  Chicoutimi,  and  is  reached  by 
a  good  road,  and  from  Quebec  by  the  Quebec  &  Lake  St.  John's  Rail- 
way direct. 


Fonte  6^.]  OTTAWA.  277 

62.  Ottawa. 

From  Montreal,  Ottawa  is  reached  hy  steamer  up  the  Ottawa  Eiver  (101 
miles),  or  by  Grand  Trunk  Eailway  to  Coteau,  and  thence  vm  the  Canada  At- 
lantic Eailway,  or  by  the  Canadian'  Pacific  Railway.  From  Toronto  by  Grand 
Trunk  Ry.  and  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  ria  BrockvDle.  From  New  York 
by  Route  40  to  LTtica,  and  thence  ria  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R. 
to  Ogdensburg,  which  is  opposite  Prescott,  and  thence  by  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  (438  miles),  or  by  the  Adirondack  &  St.  Lawrence  R.  R.  to  Coteau. 
From  Boston  via  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  to  Portland,  and  then  via  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  or  via  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Grand  Union,  Eiissell,  and  Windscyr  Emise  are  in  the 
central  part  of  the  city.  Rates  are  from  $2  to  $4  a  day.  Horse  and  electric 
cars  connect  the  city  with  the  towns  across  the  river  (fare,  5c.). 

Ottawa,  the  capital  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  is  situated  on  the 
S.  bank  of  the  Ottawa  River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rideau.  It  is  divided 
into  an  Upper  and  Lower  Town  by  the  Rideau  Canal,  which  passes 
through  it  and  connects  it  with  Kingston,  on  Lake  Ontario.  The  canal 
is  crossed  within  the  city  limits  by  three  bridges,  one  of  stone,  one  of 
stone  and  iron,  and  one  of  wood,  and  has  8  massive  locks.  Bridges  also 
connect  Ottawa  with  the  suburban  towns  of  Hull  and  New  Edinburgh, 
on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  Ottawa  and  Rideau  Rivers  i"espectively. 
The  latter  suburb  is  now  a  part  of  the  city  proper.  The  streets  are  wide 
and  regular,  the  principal  ones  being  Spccrks,  Wellinc/fori,  Elgin^Rideav^ 
and  Sussex.  The  former  is  the  popular  promenade,  and  contains  the  lead- 
ing retail-shops,  etc.  Ottawa  was  originally  called  Bytown,  in  honor  of 
Colonel  By,  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  by  whom  it  was  laid  out  in  182'7. 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  under  its  present  name  in  1854,  and  was 
selected  by  Queen  Victoria  as  the  seat  of  the  Canadian  Government  in 
1858.  It  has  grown  rapidly  since  the  latter  date,  and  had  a  population 
in  1891  of  44,154.  The  city  is  the  entrepot  of  the  lumber-trade  of  the 
Ottawa  and  its  tributaries. 

Ottawa  is  substantially  built,  containing  many  stone  edifices,  but 
the  *  Government  Buildings  are  the  chief  feature  of  the  city. 
They  form  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle  on  an  eminence  formerly  known 
as  Barrack  Hill,  150  ft.  above  the  river,  and  cost  .§4,000,000.  '  The  X. 
side  of  the  quadrangle  is  formed  by  the  Parliarnent  House^  which  is 
472  ft.  long  and  572  ft.  deep  from  the  front  of  the  main  tower  to  the 
rear  of  the  Library,  the  body  of  the  building  being  40  ft.  high  and  the 
central  tower  180  ft.  The  Departmental  Buildings  run  S.  from  this, 
forming  the  E.  and  W.  sides  of  the  quadrangle;  the  Eastern  block  is  318 
ft.  long  by  253  ft.  deep,  and  the  Western  211  ft.  long  by  2V7  ft.  deep.  An 
additional  block  was  subsequently  completed  on  the  S.  side.  They 
contain  the  Government  bureaus,  the  Model-Room  of  the  Patent-  Office 
being  in  the  South  block.  The  buildings  are  in  the  Italian-Gothic  style. 
The  arches  of  the  doors  and  windows  are  of  red  Potsdam  sandstone, 
the  external  ornamental  work  of  Ohio  sandstone,  and  the  columns  and 
arches  of  the  legislative  chambers  of  marble.  The  roofs  are  covered  with 
green  and  purple  slates,  and  the  pinnacles  are  ornamented  with  iron  trel- 
lis-work. The  legislative  chambers  are  capacious  and  richly  furnished, 
and  have  stained-glass  windows.     The  Senate  Hall   is   reached  to  the 


278  OTTAWA.  [Route  6S. 

right  from  the  mam  entrance  (which  is  under  the  central  tower).  The 
vice-regal  canopy  and  throne  are  at  one  end  of  this  hall,  and  at  the 
other  are  a  marble  statue  and  a  portrait  of  Queen  Victoria,  together  with 
full-length  portraits  of  George  III  and  Queen  Charlotte  by  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds.  The  Chamber  of  Commons  is  reached  to  the  left  from  the 
entrance,  and  contains  some  beautiful  marble  columns  and  arches.  The 
Library  is  a  handsome  polygonal  structure  on  the  N.  front  of  the  Par- 
liament House,  containing  at  present  over  100,000  volumes.  The  quad- 
rangle is  neatly  laid  out  and  planted  with  trees,  and  has  a  massive  stone 
wall  along  its  front.  The  Geological  Museum  is  in  Sussex  St.  Rideau 
Hall,  the  official  residence  of  the  Governor-General,  is  in  New  Edin- 
burgh, across  the  Rideau  River. 

After  the  Government  Buildings,  the  most  important  edifice  in  the 
city  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  Notre-Dame,  which  is  a 
spacious  stone  structure,  with  double  spires  200  ft.  high.  The  interior 
is  imposing,  and  contains  a  painting  ("The  Flight  into  Egypt")  which 
is  attributed  to  Murillo.  Other  handsome  church  edifices  are  St.  An- 
drew''s  (Presbyterian)  and  St.  Patricks  (Roman  Catholic).  The  Ottawa 
University  (Roman  Catholic)  has  a  large  building  in  Wilbrod  St.,  and 
the  Ladies''  College  (Protestant),  a  very  handsome  one  in  Albert  St. 
The  Ontario  Government  has  built  commodious  Normal  and  Model 
Schools  on  the  S.  of  Cartier  Square.  The  Grey  Nunnery  is  an  im- 
posing stone  structure  at  the  cor.  of  Water  and  Sussex  Sts.  The  Grey 
Nuns  have  a  large  school  on  Rideau  St.  The  Nuns  of  the  Congregation 
de  Notre-Dame  have  a  large  boarding  and  day  school  just  W.  of  Cartier 
Square.  There  are  in  the  city  four  convents,  two  hospitals,  three  orphan 
asylums,  and  a  Magdalen  asylum.  The  8  massive  locks  of  the  Rideau 
Canal.,  within  the  corporation  limits,  are  worth  a  visit. 

The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Ottawa  is  picturesque  and  grand.  At 
the  W.  extremity  are  the  *  Chaudiere  Falls,  where  the  Ottawa  River 
plunges  over  a  ragged  ledge  40  ft.  high  and  200  ft.  wide.  In  the  great 
Chaudiere  (or  caldron)  the  sounding-line  has  not  found  bottom  at  300 
ft.  Immediately  below  the  falls  is  a  suspension-bridge,  from  which  a 
superb  view  is  obtained.  One  mile  above  the  city  are  the  Little  Chau- 
diere Falls.,  13  ft.  high,  and  2  miles  above  are  the  rapids  known  as  St. 
Remoux.  The  Les  Chenes  Rapids.,  8  miles  above  Ottawa,  have  a  fall  of 
9  ft.  The  Rideau  Falls,  two  in  number,  are  N.  E.  of  the  city  on  the 
Rideau  River,  and  are  very  attractive,  though  eclipsed  by  the  grandeur 
of  the  Chaudiere. 

The  Ottawa  Kiver,  the  chief  tributary  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the 
largest  stream,  with  the  exception  of  the  Saskatchewan  and  the  Mackenzie 
Rivers,  whoUy  within  the  Dominion,  is  navigable  both  above  and  below  Ot- 
tawa. A  morning  boat  runs  down  the  river  to  Montreal,  making  the  distance 
in  about  10  hours.  At  C4renvUle,  on  this  route,  the  traveler  takes  the  cars 
around  the  Long  Sauh  and  Carillon  Rapids  to  Carillon  (12  miles),  and  at  Lachine 
the  famous  ^Lachine  Eapids  are  run  by  the  steamer.  Above  Ottawa  the  river 
was  formerly  navigated  for  188  miles  by  steamers,  but  the  portages  were  nu- 
merous and  the  route  by  no  means  continuous,  and  has  been  discontinued. 
The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  now  absorbs  the  river  traffic,  as  it  passes  through 
the  valley  of  the  Ottawa  in  its  route  through  to  the  Great  Northwest  of  Canada. 


'Route  63.]  MANITOBA.  279 


63.   Manitoba. 

How  to  reacli. — (1)  By  Canadian  Pacific  Railwaj^  and  its  connections  from 
Quebec,  Montreal,  Ottawa,  or  Toronto.  (2)  Or,  in  summer,  by  Lake  steamers 
from  Buffalo,  Detroit,  Sarnia,  or  Southampton,  to  Duiuth,  thence  by  Northern 
Pacific,  and  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Manitoba,  and  Canadian  Pacific  Railways 
to  Winnipeg  ;  or,  by  steamer  to  Port  Arthur,  Lake  Siiperior  (Route  105),  and 
thence  by  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  ;  or  (8),  by  Route  87  or  83  to  St.  Paul,  and 
thence  by  the  Northern  Pacific  &  Manitoba,  and  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Mani- 
toba R.  Rs.,  either  through  the  "  Park  region,"  passing  Barnesville  and  Fargo, 
to  Gretna,  where  connection  is  made  with' the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  to  Win- 
nipeg ;  or,  "By  the  shores  of  Miunetonka,"  through  Morris,  Barnesville,  and 
Crookston,  to  St.  Vincent,  Emerson,  and  Pembina,  whence  the  Canadian  Pacific 
and  Northern  Pacific  Railways  run  to  Winnipeg.  (For  detailed  description  see 
The  Canadian  Guide-Book,  Part  II,  Western  Canada,  published  by  D.  Apple- 
ton  &  Co. 

Manitoba,  a  province  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  lies  just  N.  of 
Minnesota  and  Dakota,  and  is  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  280  miles 
long  E.  and  W.  by  268  miles  in  breadth ;  area,  73,956  square  miles  ; 
population  154,506,  of  whom  many  are  of  Indian  origin.  Since  IS'ZO  a 
considerable  immigration  from  the  Eastern  Provinces  and  from  Europe, 
has  set  in,  and  the  whites  are  rapidly  becoming  the  dominant  element  in 
the  population.  The  Indians  of  Manitoba  are  all  settled  on  reservations 
and  have  taken  to  agricultural  pursuits. 

The  general  surface  of  Manitoba  is  a  level  prairie,  about  800  ft. 
above  the  sea.  It  is  broken  by  the  Big  Ridge,  Riding,  and  Pembina 
Mountains,  ancient  beaches  of  that  vast  lake  which  is  supposed  at  one 
time  to  have  covered  this  entire  region.  The  important  lakes  are  Win- 
nipeg, Winnipegosis,  and  Manitoba,  from  the  latter  of  which  the  prov- 
ince derives  its  name.  Lake  W'mnipeg  is  of  irregular  shape,  being 
about  260  miles  in  length  and  from  6  to  60  miles  wide.  It  is  720  ft. 
above  the  sea,  contains  many  islands,  and  does  not  exceed  12  fathoms 
in  depth.  Ice  forms  frequently  to  a  thickness  of  5  ft.,  and  does  not  leave 
the  upper  part  of  the  lake  before  the  10th  of  June.  The  name  Winni- 
peg in  Cree  signifies  "  dirty  water."  Lake  Manitoba  lies  about  60  miles 
W.  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  into  which  it  discharges  through  the  Little  Sas- 
katchewan or  Dauphin  River,  and  is  120  miles  long  and  25  wide  at  the 
widest  part.  The  name  signifies  "  supernatural  strait,"  the  Indians 
attributing  the  peculiar  agitation  of  the  water  in  a  portion  of  the  lake 
to  the  presence  of  a  spirit.  The  lakes  abound  in  fish.  The  principal 
stream  in  Manitoba  is  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  which,  rising  in 
Minnesota,  flows  for  120  miles  through  the  province  and  empties  into 
Lake  Winnipeg.  Its  chief  affluent,  the  Assiniboin,  joins  it  about  45 
miles  above  Lake  Winnipeg. 

The  climate  is  healthy,  but  exhibits  great  extremes  of  temperature, 
the  thermometer  falling  in  winter  to  40°  below  zero,  and  in  summer 
rising  as  high  as  100°.  Owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  how- 
ever, the  cold  is  not  severely  felt,  and  the  snow  is  seldom  very  deep. 
The  rainfall  in  summer  is  ample  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  vegeta- 
tion comes  rapidly  to  maturity.  Winter  sets  in  early  in  November, 
and  lasts  until  the  middle  of  April.     Frosts  are  liable  to  occur  until  the 


280  MANITOBA..  [Uovte  63. 

end  of  May,  and  cold  nights  begin  toward  the  end  of  August.  The  soil 
is  very  fertile. 

To  the  sportsman,  Manitoba,  being  a  comparatively  virgin  field,  offers 
unrivaled  attractions.  The  rivers  and  lakes  abound  in  white-fish,  stur- 
geon, trout,  cat-fish,  pike,  perch,  and  gold-eyes.  Ducks,  geese,  cranes, 
swans,  snipe,  prairie-hens,  and  other  birds  swarm  in  countless  numbers ; 
and  among  the  wild  animals  are  elks,  black  bears,  rabbits,  squirrels,  and 
badgers.  The  great  buffalo-ranges,  formerly  visited  by  the  Indian  hunt- 
ers, lie  to  the  W.  and  S.  W.  of  the  province,  but  the  buffaloes  are  almost 
extinct. 

The  capital  of  Manitoba  is  Winnipeg  (hotels :  Clarendon^  Mani- 
toba, Queenh),  at  the  confluence  of  the  Red  River  of  the  Is^orth  with 
the  Assiniboin,  45  miles  S.  of  Lake  Winnipeg.  It  covers  an  area  of  20 
square  miles,  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  contains  25,642  inhabitants.  The 
chief  public  buildings  are  the  Governor'' h  Residence,  Parliament  Build- 
ings, St.  John''s  College,  Manitoba  College,  General  Hospital,  and  several 
handsome  churches ;  the  Court-JIo2(se,  the  Citg  Hall,  the  Post-  Office, 
the  Custom-House,  and  the  Bo,nk  of  Montreal,  Imperial  Bank,  Commer- 
cial Bank  of  Manitoba,  Merchants''  Bank,  Ontario  Bank,  Hudson  Bay 
Company^  Office,  and  many  warehouses,  are  large  and  handsome  struct- 
ures, mostly  of  white  brick  manufactured  in  the  vicinity.  Winnipeg  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  Dominion  bureaus  relating  to  the  Northwest 
Territories,  except  that  of  the  Indian  Department,  which  is  in  Regina, 
and  in  America  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.  It  has  broad  and  well  laid-out 
streets,  street-railroads,  a  fire-brigade,  and  gas  and  electric  lights.  Op- 
posite, on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  is  St.  Boniface.  The  trade  of  Win- 
nipeg is  important,  and  consists  in  supplying  the  retail  trades  of  the 
province  and  the  territories  beyond,  besides  the  retail  trade  of  the  city 
and  the  country  around.  The  exports  consist  chiefly  of  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  flax,  potatoes,  flour,  fish,  cheese,  butter,  furs,  and  cattle  for  the 
European  market.  The  principal  towns  in  Manitoba  besides  Winnipeg 
are  Brandon,  Portage,  La  Prairie,  Selkirk,  Emerson,  and  Moosmin.  Be- 
sides these  there  are  many  smaller  towns  and  villages ;  but  the  province 
is  rapidly  filling  up  by  immigration,  and  each  year  sees  marked  changes. 

"  Fort  Garry,"  the  site  of  the  old  fort,  is  now  within  the  city  limits, 
and  nothing  remains  of  it  except  the  gateway,  which  will  be  preserved 
by  the  city  to  mai-k  the  spot  of  some  important  events  in  its  history. 
(See  Appletons'  Canadian  Guide-Book,  Part  II,  Western  Canada.) 

Manitoba  forms  part  of  the  territory  granted  in  1670  by  Charles  II.  to  the 
Hudson  Bay  Co.,  which  in  1811  sold  a  tract,  including  what  is  now  the  province, 
to  Thomas  Douglas,  Earl  of  Selkirk.  Under  his  aiispices  a  colony  was  estab- 
lished, which  was  sometimes  called  the  Selkirk  Settlement,  but  more  commonly 
the  Red  River  Settlement.  In  1835  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.  bought  back  this  tract, 
and  in  1870  Manitoba  became  a  province  of  Canada,  upon  the  annexation  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  territory  to  the  Dominion.  A  previous  attempt  of  the  Dominion 
authorities  to  take  possession  of  the  country  led  to  organized  resistance  on  the 
part  of  the  French  half-breeds  under  the  lead  of  Louis  Riel,  who  formed  a  pro- 
visional government,  adopted  a  bill  of  rights,  and  held  possession  of  the  prov- 
ince from  about  Oct.  20,  1869,  to  Aug.  24,  1870,  when  a  force  under  Col.  (now 
Lord)  Wolseley  entered  Winnipeg  and  reinstated  the  regular  authorities,  Riel 
having  previously  vacated  the  place. 


Boute  GJf.]  TORONTO.  281 


64.  Toronto. 

From  Montreal,  Toronto  is  reached  by  steamer  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River 
and  Lake  Ontario,  or  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  (333  miles),  or  by  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway  short  direct  line,  or  via  Ottawa.  (Montreal  to  Ottawa,  120  miles, 
thence  to  Toronto,  254  miles.)  From  New  York  by  Route  40  or  Route  42  to 
Lewiston,  and  thence  by  steamer  on  Lake  Ontario  ;  or  via  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way, passing  through  Hamilton.  From  Boston  by  Route  26  or  27  to  Montreal, 
and  thence  as  above. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Queen's  Hotel,  in  Front  St. ;  the  Bossin  Roifse,  cor.  King 
and  York  Sts.  ;  Walker  House,  Front  and  York  Sts. ;  and  JRevere  Rouse,  in  King 
St.  The  range  of  prices  at  these  hotels  is  from  |1.5o  to  $4  per  day.  Street-cars 
(fare,  5c.)  render  all  parts  of  the  city  easily  accessible. 

Toronto,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Ontario,  is  situated  on  a 
beautiful  circular  bay  on  the  N.  W.  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  between  the 
Don  and  Humber  Rivers.  The  site  of  the  city  is  low,  but  rises  gently 
from  the  water's  edge.  The  streets  are  regular  and  in  general  well  paved, 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  King^  Yonge,  and  Queen  Sts.  are 
the  leading  thoroughfares,  and  contain  the  principal  retail  shops.  The 
greater  part  of  the  wholesale  trade  is  centered  in  Front  and  Wellington 
Sts.  Yonge  St.  extends  back  to  Lake  Simcoe.  Many  of  the  houses  and 
business  structures  are  built  of  light-colored  brick,  of  a  soft,  pleasing 
tint.  The  growth  of  Toronto  has  been  more  rapid  than  that  of  any 
other  Canadian  city.  It  was  founded  in  1'794,  by  Governor  Simcoe, 
on  the  site  of  the  old  French  fort  called  Fort  Toronto  or  Rouillee, 
who  gave  it  the  name  of  York,  changed,  when  it  was  incorporated  as 
a  city,  in  1834,  to  Toronto — meaning,  in  the  Indian  tongue,  "The  place 
of  meeting."  In  1813  it  was  twice  captured  by  the  Americans,  who 
destroyed  the  fortifications  and  burned  the  public  buildings.  In  1817 
the  population  was  only  1,200 ;  in  1852  it  was  30,763  ;  in  1861,  44,821  ; 
and  in  1891  it  was  181,220.  The  commerce  of  the  city  is  very  extensive. 
Its  manufactories  include  iron  and  other  foundries,  flour-mills,  distilleries, 
breweries,  paper-hangings,  fui-niture,  agricultural  machinery,  pianos  and 
organs,  etc. 

The  finest  buildings  in  the  city,  and  among  the  finest  of  the  kind  in 
America,  were  those  of  the  *  University  of  Toronto,  standing  in  a 
large  park,  and  approached  by  College  Ave.,  which  is  ^  mile  long  and 
lined  with  double  rows  of  noble  trees.  The  buildings  form  three  sides 
of  a  large  quadrangle.  They  are  of  gray  rubble-stone,  trimmed  with 
Ohio  and  Caen  stone,  and  are  admirable  specimens  of  pure  Xorman 
architecture.  The  University  library  numbers  29,000  volumes,  and 
there  is  a  fine  Museum  of  Natural  History,  With  it  are  affiliated 
University  College,  McMaster  Hall  (Baptist),  St.  MichaeVs  (Catholic), 
Victoria  (Methodist),  Wydlffe  (Episcopal),  and  Knox  College  (Presby- 
terian). In  front  of  the  IJniversity  is  the  Meteorological  Observatory,  the 
School  of  Practical  Science,  and  the  *  Queen's  Park,  comprising 
about  50  acres,  skillfully  laid  out  and  pleasantly  shaded.  In  the  Park 
is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  Canadians  who  fell  in  repelhng 
the  Fenian  invasion  of  1866,  and  here  stand  the  Parliament  Buildings. 
The  Post- Office,  a  handsome  stone  building  in  the  Italian  style,  stands 


282  TORONTO.  [Route  64. 

at  the  head  of  Toronto  St.,  and  near  it  is  the  Free  Public  Libra ty.  The 
Cit^/  Hall^  in  Front  St.,  near  the  lake-shore,  is  an  unpretentious  struct- 
ure in  the  Italian  st3de.  Xear  by  is  the  *Sy.  Lavirence  Market.  The 
Custom- Hotise  is  a  large  and  imposing  cut-stone  building,  extending  from 
Front  St.  to  the  Esplanade;  and  the  Court-House  is  in  Church  St. 
Osgoode  Hall  J  in  Queen  St.,  is  an  imposing  building  of  the  Grecian- 
Ionic  order,  containing  the  Provincial  law  courts  and  an  excellent  law 
library  of  30,000  volumes.  The  St.  Lawrence  Hall.,  in  King  St.,  is  a 
stately  stone  structure  in  the  Italian  style,  surmounted  by  a  dome,  and 
containing  a  public  hall,  news-room,  etc.  The  Masonic  Hall  is  in 
Toronto  St.,  and  the  Sons  of  England  Hall  in  Queen  St.  The  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association  has  a  fine  edifice  in  Yonge  St.,  with  the 
largest  hall  in  the  city.  The  Grand  Opera  House  seats  about  2,300,  and 
the  Pavilion,  in  the  Horticultural  Gardens,  3,000. 

The  *  Church  of  St.  James  (Episcopal),  cor.  King  and  Church 
Sts.,  is  a  spacious  edifice  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the  thirteenth  century, 
with  a  lofty  tower  and  spire  (306  ft.  high),  a  clear-story,  chancel,  and 
elaborate  open  roof,  of  the  perpendicular  style.  It  is  200  by  115  ft.,  and 
is  siHTOunded  by  shady,  grounds.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Michael  (Roman 
Catholic),  in  Church  St.  near  Queen,  is  a  lofty  and  spacious  edifice  in 
the  decorated  Gothic  style,  with  stained-glass  windows  and  a  spire 
250  ft.  high.  The  Wesleyan  Methodist  Church,  on  McGill 
Square,  is  the  finest  church  of  the  denomination  in  Canada.  It  has  a 
massive  tower,  surmounted  by  graceful  pinnacles,  and  a  rich  and  taste- 
ful interior.  Trinity  and  St.  Georgeh  (both  Episcopal)  are  neat  exam- 
ples of  the  perpendicular  Gothic  style.  The  Jarvis  Street  Baptist 
Church  is  in  the  decorated  Gothic  style,  and  one  of  the  finest  church 
edifices  in  the  Dominion.  St.  Andreio\s  (Presbyterian)  is  a  massive 
stone  structure  in  the  Norman  style. 

The  Normal  School.,  the  Model  Schools,  and  the  Educational  Mu- 
seum are  plain  buildings  in  the  Italian  style,  grouped  so  as  to  produce 
a  picturesque  eifect,  standing  amid  park-like  grounds  in  Church  St. 
The  Museum  contains  a  complete  supply  of  educational  apparatus  and 
some  valuable  paintings.  Trinity  University,  in  Queen  St.  West,  is 
a  picturesque  building  250  ft.  long,  surrounded  by  extensive  grounds. 
Upper  Canada  College  is  a  plain  red-brick  building  in  King  St.  near 
John,  immediately  opposite  the  official  residence  of  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  the  Province.  The  Provincial  Lunatic  Asylum  is  a  large 
building  with  200  acres  of  grounds  W.  of  the  city.  Immediately  W. 
are  situated  the  Central  Prisofi,  the  Mercer  Reformatory  for  Women, 
the  Orphans''  Home,  and  the  Home  for  Incurables.  E.  of  the  city  (Don 
St.,  near  Sumach)  is  the  fine  structure  of  the  General  Hospitcd.  The 
Crystal  Palace,  in  which  are  held  annual  exhibitions,  is  an  extensive 
building  near  the  Lunatic  Asylum.  The  Loretto  Abbey,  in  Wellington 
Place,  is  the  principal  nunnery  in  the  city.  The  Public  Library,  in 
Church  St.,  contains  very  large  and  pleasant  reading-rooms,  and  well- 
selected  reference  and  circulating  libraries,  numbering  55,000  volumes. 
Branch  libraries  are  also  situated  in  different  parts  of  the  city. 


'Route  15.5.1     THE    MARITIME    PROVINCES    OF    CAKADA.       28{ 


65.  The  Maritime  Provinces  of  Canada. 

To  describe  these  Provinces  in  detail  would  require  a  volume  of 
itself,  and,  furthermoi-e,  would  be  beyond  the  purposes  of  this  book. 
Those  who  desire  fuller  information  on  the  subject  should  consult  The 
Canadia>^  Guide-Book,  Part  I,  Eastern  Canada,  published  by  D.  Apple- 
ton  &  Co.  All  we  shall  attempt  will  be  to  give  the  outlines  of  a  round 
trip,  which,  with  short  side  trips  or  excursions,  will  include  the  principal 
points  of  interest  in  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  Cape  Breton,  and 
Prince  Edward  Island.  This  round  trip  can  be  made  in  two  weeks,  but 
at  least  three  weeks  should  be  assigned  to  it  in  order  to  make  it  thor- 
oughly enjoyable.  The  traveler  should  go  warmly  clad.  As  to  money, 
U.  S.  notes  will  be  found  as  serviceable  as  anything  else,  but  at  each 
stopping-point  they  should  be  taken  to  a  banker's  and  exchanged  for  as 
much  local  currency  as  will  be  needed  during  the  sojourn. 

New  BrunsAvick. 

New  Brunswick,  the  third  Province  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
lies  upon  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State  of  Maine,  and  is  180  miles 
long  by  150  wide,  containing  an  area  of  27,322  square  miles.  Its 
population,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  was  321,294.  The  land- 
scape is  of  great  variety  and  of  most  picturesque  beauty,  the  whole 
Province  (excepting  the  dozen  miles  lying  directly  on  the  sea)  being 
broken  into  attractive  valleys  and  hills,  which  northward  assume  a 
very  rugged  character.  Much  of  its  area  is  covered  with  magnificent 
forests,  which,  as  in  the  neighboring  State  of  Maine,  constitute  its 
chief  source  of  industry  and  wealth.  Like  the  neighboi'ing  Province 
of  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brunswick  so  abounds  in  lakes  and  rivers  that 
ready  water  access  may  be  had,  with  the  help  of  a  short  portage  now 
and  then,  over  its  entire  area.  Thus  a  canoe  may  easily  be  floated 
from  the  interior  to  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and 
the  ocean  on  the  N.,  or  to  the  St.  John  River,  and  thence  to  the  Bay 
of  Fundy,  on  the  S.  All  the  waters  of  New  Brunswick  abound  with 
fish  of  almost  every  variety.  The  fisheries  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  are 
of  immense  value,  and  employ  vast  numbers  of  the  population. 

St.  John  {JDufferhi^  Royal^  and  Vidoria)  is  the  principal  city  of 
New  Brunswick,  and  is  the  starting-point  for  our  tour  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces.  A  pleasant  way  to  reach  it  is  by  the  steamers  of  the  Inter- 
national Steamship  Co.^  from  either  Boston  or  Portland.  They  leave 
Commercial  Wharf,  Boston,  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays  dur- 
ing the  summer  months  (fare  from  Boston  to  St.  John,  $4.50).  The 
best  railway  approach  is  by  Route  17  or  Route  18  to  Portland,  thence 
by  Route  24  to  Bangor,  and  from  Bangor  to  Vanceboro  by  the  Maine 
Central  R.  R.,  and  thence  to  St.  John  by  the  Atlantic  Div.  of  the  Cana- 
dian Pacific  Railway.  These  systems  and  the  Intercolonial  Railway 
enter  the  city  by  a  cantilever  bridge  810  ft.  long,  which  spans  the  river 
St.  John  a  few  rods  above  the  Suspension  Bridge,  to  which  refer- 
ence is  made  below.     During  the  summer  several  trains  a  day  run  from 


284      THE   MAEITTME   PEOVmCES    OF    CANADA.      [Boilte  65. 

Boston  to  St.  John,  one  of  which  goes  through  in  14  hours  (fare,  S8), 
with  buffet  drawing-room  and  sleeping  cars  on  two  of  the  trains.  The 
short  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  connects  the  city  with 
Montreal;  time,  about  15  hours.  The  city  (containing  39, 1*79  inhab- 
itants) is  superbly  situated  upon  a  bold,  rocky  peninsula  at  the  mouth 
of  the  St.  John  River.  The  scenery  of  this  river  is  very  striking 
in  the  passage  immediately  preceding  its  entrance  into  the  harbor,  and 
for  l^  mile  above  the  city.  It  makes  its  impetuous  way  here  in  a 
chain  of  grand  rapids,  through  a  rugged  gap  270  ft.  wide  and  1,200 
ft.  long.  The  passage  is  navigable  only  during  the  vei-y  brief  time  oi" 
high  and  equal  tides  in  the  harbor  and  river;  for  at  low  water  the 
river  is  about  1 2  ft.  higher  than  the  harbor,  while  at  high  water  the 
harbor  is  5  ft.  above  the  river.  The  streets  are  wide  and  laid  out  at 
right  angles ;  some  of  them  are  very  steep,  and  cut  through  the  solid 
rock  to  a  depth  of  30  or  40  ft.  On  June  20,  1877,  a  most  disastrous 
conflagration  reduced  the  entire  business  portion  of  the  city  to  ashes, 
but  since  the  tire  many  very  handsome  public  buildings  have  been 
erected ;  among  them,  the  Masonic  Hall^  at  a  cost  of  $80,000,  Post- 
Office^  Custom- House ^  City  Buildings,  Odd-Felloios''  Hcdl,  and  various 
banks  and  churches.  One  mile  and  a  half  distant  from  the  city  is  the 
Rural  Cemetery,  containing  110  acres.  The  Oivens  Art-Gallery,  which 
was  opened  about  7  years  since,  is  a  superb  structure,  and  contains  one 
of  the  finest  collections  of  paintings  by  European  and  American  artists 
to  be  found  in  the  Dominion.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  river  is  a  portion 
of  the  city  called  Carleton.  The  principal  points  of  interest  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  St.  John  are  Lily  Lake  and  Mt.  Pleasant,  about  a  mile  distant ; 
Rothesay,  a  pretty  village  on  Kennebecasis  Bay,  much  resorted  to  in  sum- 
mer; Loch  Lomond,  11  miles  N.  E.,  also  a  favorite  resort;  and  the  Sus- 
pension Bridge,  640  ft.  long,  and  100  ft.  above  the  river.  The  favorite 
drives  are  on  the  Marsh  Road  and  the  Mahogany  Road. 

Several  interesting  excursions  may  be  made  from  St.  John :  1.  A  trip 
up  the  St.  John  River  to  Fredericton,  the  capital,  may  be  made  by  steamer 
in  7  hours  (fare,  $1.00),  or  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  in  3  hours. 
The  St.  John  River  is  about  600  miles  long,  and  from  Grand  Falls  to 
the  sea  (225  miles)  its  course  is  within  British  territory.  A  great  part  of 
its  course  is  through  wild  forest-land,  but  at  some  points  the  banks  rise 
in  grand  rocky  hills.  2.  To  St.  Stephen  and  St.  Andrews  ;  by  the  Cana- 
dian Pacific  Railway,  or  steamer  via  Eastport,  Me.  Fare  to  St.  Stephen, 
$1.75.  This  trip  gives  the  tourist  a  sight  of  the  turbulent  Bay  of  Fundy, 
and  of  the  picturesque  scenery  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay ;  it  may  be  made 
in  7  hours.  From  Calais  (opposite  St.  Stephen)  a  railway  runs  21  miles 
to  the  lovely  and  fish-abounding  Schoodic  Lakes.  3.  To  the  Basin 
of  Minas  by  steamer,  to  Annapolis,  and  thence  by  Windsor  &  Annapolis 
R.  R.  to  Wolfville,  whence  a  small  steamer  runs  to  Parrsboro,  Kings- 
port,  and  Windsor.  The  Basin  of  Minas,  the  E.  arm  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,  penetrates  60  miles  into  Xova  Scotia,  and  is  remarkable  for  its 
tremendous  tides,  which  rise  sometimes  to  the  height  of  60  or  70  ft. 
Parrsboro  {Dominion  House)  is  a  pretty  little  town  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Basin,  and  may  be  made  the  center  for  many  agreeable  minor  excursions. 


\ 


Eoute  65.]     THE   MAEITIME    PE0VINCE8    OF    CANADA.       285 

Across  the  Basin  from  Parrsboro  is  Grand  Pre,  the  land  of  Long- 
fellow's Evangeline.  The  picturesque  Gaspereaux  Valley  may  be  visited 
from  Wolf ville,  and  also  from  Halifax  via  Windsor. 

The  next  stage  in  our  regular  round  trip  is  from  St.  John  to  Halifax. 
This  may  be  made  without  change  of  cars  via  the  Intercolonial  Railway 
(distance,  276  miles  ;  fare,  $6  for  1st  class,  and  $4  for  2d  class) ;  but 
the  pleasantest  route  in  summer  is  by  steamer  to  Antiapolis,  and 
thence  by  rail  (fare,  limited,  $4.50 ;  unlimited,  $5.80).  By  this  route 
the  tourist  obtains  fine  views  of  the  picturesque  scenery  of  Digby 
Gut,  and  the  lovely  Annapolis  Basin. 

Nova  Scotia. 

The  Province  of  Nova  Scotia,  the  ancient  Acadia,  lies  S.  E.  of  Xew 
Brunswick,  and,  besides  the  peninsula  proper,  comprises  the  island  of 
Cape  Breton,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  narrow  Gut  of"  Canso. 
Its  area  is  21,131  square  miles,  including  the  4, '775  of  Cape  Breton,  and 
the  total  population  in  1891  was  450,523,  of  whom  86,789  resided  on 
Cape  Breton.  The  surface  of  the  peninsula  is  undulating,  and  though 
there  are  no  mountains,  there  are  several  ranges  of  hills,  most  of  which 
traverse  the  country  in  an  E.  and  W.  direction.  The  shores  are  in- 
dented with  a  great  number  of  excellent  bays  and  harbors,  and  there 
are  numerous  small  rivers,  mostly  navigable  by  coasting  vessels  for 
short  distances.  The  surface  is  dotted  with  many  lakes  and  ponds, 
the  largest  being  L  ke  Eossignol  in  the  S.  W.,  15  miles  long  by  about  5 
wide.  In  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  Province,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  St. 
Mary's  River,  moose  or  elk  abound,  and  are  hunted  successfully  in  the 
autumn  and  early  winter.  The  black  bear  is  also  occasionally  found, 
while  partridge,  plover,  and  wild  fowl  are  shot  in  enormous  numbers. 
In  the  St.  Mary's  and  other  rivers  large  numbers  of  salmon  are  taken. 

Halifax  (Halifax,  Queenh),  the  capital  of  Nova  Scotia,  is  situated 
near  the  middle  of  the  S.  E.  coast  of  the  Province,  on  the  W.  side 
of  a  deep  inlet  of  the  Atlantic,  called  Halifax  Harbor.  Besides  the 
routes  mentioned  above,  it  is  reached  direct  from  Boston  by  steamer, 
and  from  Norfolk  or  Baltimore.  The  city  is  built  on  the  declivity 
of  a  hill  rising  236  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  harbor,  and  had  a  popu- 
lation in  1891  of  36,556.  Its  plan  is  regular,  most  of  the  streets  cross- 
ing each  other  at  i-ight  angles  ;  many  of  them  are  spacious  and  hand- 
some. The  lower  part  of  the  city  is  occupied  by  wharves  and  ware- 
houses, above  which  rise  the  dwelling-houses  and  public  buildings,  while 
the  summit  of  the  eminence  is  crowned  by  the  granite  bastions  of 
the  Citadel.  The  *  Provincial  Building-,  in  which  are  the  Gov- 
ernment offices,  is  in  Hollis  St.,  and  is  140  ft.  long  by  70  broad,  with  an 
Ionic  colonnade.  On  the  third  floor  is  the  Provincial  Museum,  contain- 
ing specimens  of  the  various  natural  products  of  the  Province  and  a 
number  of  curiosities.  West  of  the  Provincial  Building  is  the  Parlia- 
ment Building,  a  plain  gray-stone  edifice,  surrounded  by  pleasantly  shaded 
grounds,  containing  the  Free  Library.  In  the  Legislative  Chamber  are 
some  fine  portraits.  Near  by  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Young 
Men^s  Christian  Association,  containing  a  free  Heading-room.    The  Court- 


286      THE   MARITIME   PROVmCES    OF    CANADA.     [Route  65. 

House  is  a  spacious  free-stone  structure,  on  the  Spring-Garden  Road. 
Just  below  it  is  the  fine  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary.  The 
Government  House^  in  Pleasant  St.,  is  a  solid  but  gloomy  structure,  and 
is  the  official  residence  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Nova  Scotia.  The 
Wellington  Barracks.,  which  comprises  two  long  ranges  of  substantial 
stone  and  brick  buildings,  is  the  most  extensive  and  costly  establishment 
of  the  kind  in  America.  The  Admiralty  House.,  Dalhousie  College., 
Military  Hospital.,  Lunatic  Asylum  (in  Dartmouth),  Workhouse.,  Jail., 
Penitentiary.,  the  Academy  of  Music,  and  some  of  the  public  schools, 
are  among  the  most  prominent  buildings.  The  *  Citadel  occupies  the 
summit  of  the  heights  commanding  the  town,  and  is  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference. It  is  a  costly  work,  and,  after  that  of  Quebec,  is  the  strongest 
fortress  in  British  North  America.  The  Queen'' s  Dockyard  covers  14 
acres  in  the  northern  portion  of  the  city,  and  is  said  to  be  inferior  in 
equipment  to  few  except  those  of  England.  The  harbor  is  over  a  mile 
wide  opposite  the  city,  but  about  a  mile  above  it  narrows  to  :|^  of  a  mile, 
and  then  expands  into  Bedford  Basin.,  which  has  a  surface  of  10  square 
miles  and  is  completely  land-locked.  The  road  to  Point  Pleasant  is  a 
favorite  promenade.  The  Dartmouth  Lakes.,  entered  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  harbor,  afford  a  pleasing  excursion.  The  best  views  of  the 
city  of  Halifax  are  from  the  summit  of  the  Citadel  or  from  the  Dart- 
mouth side  of  the  harbor. 

Three  interesting  minor  excursions  maybe  made  from  Halifax:  1. 
To  the  Basin  of  Minas  and  Grand  Pre  vice  Windsor  &  Annapolis  Ry. 
to  Windsor,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  Parrsboro.  This  has  the  same 
objective  as  Excursion  3  from  St.  John  (see  page  284).  2.  To  Yarmouth 
and  the  Tusket  Lakes.  The  trip  from  Halifax  to  Yarmouth  may  be 
made  by  W.  &  A.  Ry.  to  Annapolis  (219  miles),  steamer  or  rail  to 
Digby,  and  thence  by  the  Western  Counties  Ry.  to  Yarmouth  CZO  miles) ; 
or  by  steamer  leaving  Halifax,  and  running  all  the  way  to  Yarmouth. 
This  latter  gives  the  tourist  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  richly  beau- 
tiful scenery  of  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia.  Yarmouth  {Lome, 
Queen)  is  a  flourishing  seaport  on  the  southwest  coast  of  Nova  Scotia, 
containing  6,087  inhabitants.  The  picturesque  Tusket  I^akes  are 
entered  by  way  of  Tusket  (10  miles  from  Yarmouth)  or  Lake  George 
(12  miles  from  Yarmouth).  They  afford  excellent  fishing,  and  the  sur- 
rounding forests  are  full  of  game.  3.  To  the  Liverpool  Lakes,  by 
stage  from  Annapolis  to  Greenfield  (50  miles),  or  by  preceding  steamer 
route  to  Liverjyool.,  and  thence  by  stage  to  Greenfield,  or  by  stage  via 
Mahone  Bay  (109  miles)  to  Liverpool.  A  road  through  the  forest  leads 
from  Greenfield  to  the  Indian  village  on  Ponhook  Lake,  where  guides 
may  be  procured.  Fi-om  Ponhook  12  lakes  may  be  entered  without 
making  a  single  portage,  including  Lake  Rossignol,  the  largest  and  finest 
in  Nova  Scotia.  These  lakes  and  the  region  around  them  are  the  para- 
dise of  sportsmen. 

From  Halifax,  the  next  and  final  stage  in  our  regular  round  trip  is 
to  Cape  Breton  and  the  famous  Bras  d'Or  Lakes.  There  are  three  prin- 
cipal routes  by  which  this  excursion  may  be  made:  1.  From  Halifax  via 
the  Pictou  Branch  R.  R,,  which  diverges  from  the  Intercolonial  Railway 


Route  65.]     THE   MAEITIME    PROVINCES    OF    CAISrADA.       287 

at  Truro,  to  JVeiv  Glasgoio  ;  thence  by  Eastern  Extension  of  the  Interco- 
lonial Railway  to  Port  Mulgrave,  between  which  and  Port  Hawkesbury, 
directly  opposite,  a  steam  ferry-boat  plies  across  the  Strait ;  and  from 
Port  Hawkesbury  by  Cape  Breton  Railway  to  Sydney.  Sydney  and  Louis- 
burg  are  now  connected  by  a  short  line  called  the  ISTew  Glasgow  &  Cape 
Breton  Railway.  2.  By  steamer  on  altei^nate  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays, 
direct  to  Sydney.  The  fare  by  Saturday  steamers  is  $10  (with  meals) ;  by 
the  Tuesday  steamers,  $8  (without  meals).  3.  By  Pictou  Branch  of  the 
Intercolonial  Ry.  to  Pidou.,  thence  by  steamer  to  Port  Hawkesbury, 
thence  by  stage  to  West  Bay,  and  thence  by  steamer  on  the  Bras  d'Or  to 
Sydney.  Fare,  $8.  The  best  way  to  make  the  round  trip  is  to  take 
i-oute  1  or  2  to  Sydney,  and  route  3  for  the  return.  In  this  way  the 
sail  on  the  lakes  will  be  made  during  the  day. 

Cape  Breton. 

The  Island  of  Cape  Breton  is  separated  from  Nova  Scotia  by  the  Gut 
of  Canso,  a  narrow  strait  from  1  to  \\  mile  wide.  Its  greatest  length  is 
100  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth  85  miles,  with  an  area  of  4,775  square 
miles  and  a  population  of  86,789.  The  island  is  yery  irregular  in  shape, 
and  is  nearly  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  Bras  d'Or,  which  is  not  a 
lake,  but  a  great  inland  sea  with  a  narrow  outlet.  At  the  entrance  lies 
Boularderie  Island,  between  which  and  the  main  island  on  the  S.  is 
LiUle  Bras  fV  Or.  The  Bras  d'Or  is  55  miles  long  and  20  miles  wide, 
and  varies  in  depth  from  70  to  300  ft.  The  coast  is  for  the  most  part 
rocky  and  elevated,  and  indented  by  numerous  bays  and  inlets.  There 
are  several  fresh-water  lakes,  the  principal  of  which  are  Lake  Margarie, 
in  the  N.  W.  division,  40  miles  in  circumference,  and  Grand  Lake  and 
Mira  Lake  in  the  S.  division.  Mira  Lake  receives  the  Salmon  River, 
which  flows  from  the  W. 

The  chief  town  on  the  island  is  Sydney,  which  is  reached  from 
Halifax  or  St.  John,  as  explained  above.  It  has  2,426  inhabitants,  and 
one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  An  interesting  excur- 
sion from  Sydney  is  a  stage-ride  of  24  miles  to  the  ruins  of  the  once 
famous  fortress  of  liOUisburg,  now  a  small  fishing-hamlet.  The 
steamer  which  leaves  Sydney  twice  a  week  (Tuesdays  and  Thursdays) 
for  West  Bay  traverses  the  entire  length  of  the  Bras  c?'  Or,  and  affords 
the  best  opportunity  for  seeing  that  remarkable  water.  It  stops  at 
Baddeck  (whose  name  Charles  Dudley  Warner  has  rendered  familiar), 
and  at  West  Bay  connects  with  stages  and  wagons,  which  convey  pas- 
sengers 13  miles  to  Port  Hawkesbury,  where  they  may  take  stages  or 
steamers  to  Halifax  and  St.  John,  or  to  Prince  Edward  Island. 

Prince  Edward  Island. 

Prince  Edward  Island  lies  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  9  miles  from 
New  Brunswick,  15  miles  from  Nova  Scotia,  and  30  miles  from  Cape 
Breton  Island.  Its  extreme  length  is  150  miles  and  greatest  breadth 
34  miles,  and  it  has  an  area  of  2,173  square  miles  and  a  population  of 
100,988.     The  surface  is  generally  flat,  but  rises  here  and  there  to  a 


288       THE   MARITIME    PKOVmCES    OF   CANADA.      [Route  65. 

moderate  height,  without  being  anywhere  too  broken  for  agriculture. 
The  coasts  are  bold,  and  are  lined  with  red  cliffs  ranging  from  20  to  100 
ft.  in  height,  and  deeply  indented  by  bays,  with  numerous  projecting 
headlands.  The  climate  is  salubrious,  and  is  milder  than  that  of  the 
adjacent  continent.  The  winters  are  long  and  cold ;  the  summers  are 
warm,  but  not  oppressive. 

Charlottetown  {Davis,  Osborne)  is  the  capital,  chief  commercial 
center,  and  only  city.  It  has  11, 3 74  inhabitants,  is  regularly  laid  out, 
and  fronts  on  a  good  harbor.  The  only  handsome  buildings  in  the 
city  are  the  Colonial  Building,  containing  the  offices  and  Legislative 
Chambers  of  the  Provincial  Government,  and  the  Post- Office.  During 
the  season  of  navigation  a  line  of  steamers  runs  4  times  a  week  from 
Charlottetown  to  Pictou,  Nova  Scotia  (fare,  $2),  where  connection  is 
made  with  railway  to  Halifax ;  and  daily  to  Shediac,  Xew  Brunswick, 
where  connection  is  made  with  railway  to  St.  John.  Weekly  lines 
connect  with  Quebec,  and  with  Halifax  and  Boston.  The  Prince  Edward 
Island  Ry.  traverses  the  entire  length  of  the  island,  connecting  Char- 
lottetown with  Sunmierside  (49  miles),  with  Tignish  (11*7  miles),  with 
Georgetown  (46  miles),  and  with  Soiiris  (60  miles).  This  railroad  affords 
access  to  any  part  of  the  island. 


! 


19 


WESTERN  AND   SOUTHERN 
STATES. 


66.  New  York  to  Chicago  via  Niagara  Falls 
and  Detroit. 


By  the  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  R.  R.  and  the  Michigan  Centra] 
R.  R.  The  distance  from  New  York  to  Chicago  by  this  route  is  978  miles,  and 
the  time  of  the  ordinary  fast  express  trains  is  about  34  hours.  Drawing-room 
cars  are  attached  to  all  the  day  trains,  and  palace  sleeping-cars  to  all  the  night 
trains,  and  there  is  no  change  of  cars  between  New  York  and  Chicago.  The 
North  Shore  Limited  Express,  with  complete  drawing-room  car  service,  leaves 
the  Grand  Central  Station  dailv  at  4.50  a.  m.,  and  reaches  Chicago  in  25  hours. 
Distances  :  New  York  to  Albany,  143  mDes  ;  to  Utica,  238  ;  to  Rome,  252  ;  to 
Syracuse,  291  ;  to  Rochester,  371  ;  to  Suspension  Bridge,  446 ;  to  Hamilton, 
491  ;  to  London,  576  ;  to  Detroit,  677  ;  to  Chicago,  978. 

Leaving  the  Grand  Central  Station  at  4 2d  St.  and  4th  Avenue  in 
New  York,  the  train  passes  to  Albany  amid  the  picturesque  scenery 
of  the  Hudson  River. ^  The  Hudson  River  Div.  of  this  system  runs 
along  the  E.  bank  of  the  river  all  the  way  to  Albany,  and,  owing  to 
the  fine  view  of  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  Avhich  is  obtained  from 
the  cars  all  the  way,  the  journey  is  a  most  agreeable  one.  Going  N., 
the  traveler  should  secure  a  seat  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  car,  and 
going  S.  on  the  right-hand  side.  The  lower  Hudson,  emptying  into  Xew 
York  Bay,  is  like  a  huge  arm  of  the  sea,  and,  as  we  ascend,  preserves 
its  noble  width,  occasionally  expanding  into  lakes,  while  at  several 
places  among  the  Highlands  the  mountains  approach  so  close  on  either 
side  as  to  reduce  the  river  to  a  contracted  and  tortuous  channel.  The 
railroad  runs  close  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  in  sight  of  its  waters 
almost  continuously,  making  occasional  short  cuts  from  point  to  point, 
and  ever  and  anon  crossing  wide  bays  and  the  mouths  of  occasional 
tributary  streams. 

Passing  beneath  the  upper  part  of  New  York  City  through  long  tun- 
nels, the  train  crosses  the  Harlem  River,  and  then,  turning  to  the  left,  fol- 
lows the  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  to  the  Hudson.  On  reaching  the  river, 
the  traveler's  attention  is  at  once  caught  by  the  *  Palisades,  a  series  of 

1  Our  description  of  this  route  as  far  as  Suspension  Bridge  is  a  mere  outline 
or  summary,  designed  to  furnish  such  cursory  information  about  the  places 
and  scenery  en  route  as  may  meet  the  wants  of  through  passengers  to  the  West. 
Those  who  desire  a  more  detailed  desci'iption  will  fuid  it  in  the  section  of  the 
work  devoted  to  the  New  England  and  Middle  States  (Routes  9  and  40). 
19 


290  KEW   YORK   TO   CHICAGO.  [Route  66. 

grand  precipices  rising  in  many  places  to  the  height  of  300  ft.  and 
stretching  in  an  unbroken  hne  along  the  W.  river-bank  for  more  than 
20  miles.  The  rock  is  trap,  columnar  in  formation,  and  the  summit  is 
thickly  wooded.  In  striking  contrast  with  the  desolate  and  lonely 
appearance  of  these  cliffs,  the  E.  bank  presents  a  continuous  succession  of 
beautiful  villas  standing  amid  picturesque  and  exquisitely-kept  grounds, 
with  a  frequent  sprinkhng  of  villages  and  hamlets.  Yonkers  (17  miles) 
is  a  fashionable  suburban  town,  beautifully  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Neperan  or  Saw-Mill  River.  Fiermont  (22  miles)  is  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  liver  at  the  end  of  the  Palisades,  and  takes  its  name  from  a  mile- 
long  pier  which  extends  from  the  shore  to  deep  water.  Here  begins  the 
*Tappan  Zee,  a  lake-like  expansion  of  the  river,  10  miles  long  and  3 
miles  wide  at  the  widest  part,  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  Tarry- 
town^  immortalized  by  Washington  Irving,  and  Sing  Sing^  the  site  of 
one  of  the  most  important  of  the  State  Prisons,  are  on  the  E.  shore  of 
the  Tappan  Zee ;  and  the  pretty  little  town  of  Nyack  is  on  the  W,  shore. 
Croton  Point  divides  the  Tappan  Zee  from  Haverstraw  Bay^  another 
lake-like  widening  of  the  river,  at  the  upper  end  of  which  stands  Peeks- 
kill  (43  miles),  at  the  gate  of  the  *  Highlands,  as  the  mountains 
through  which  the  Hudson  forces  its  way  are  called.  The  scenery  for 
the  next  16  miles  is  unsurpassed  in  the  world;  but  a  very  imperfect 
idea  of  it  is  obtained  from  the  cars.  The  first  seen  of  the  Highland 
group  is  Dunderberg  Mt.^  which  looms  up  grandly  across  the  river. 
Nearly  opposite  is  Anthony''s  Nose^  whose  base  is  tunneled  by  the  rail- 
way a  length  of  200  ft.  In  the  river,  under  Dunderberg,  is  the  pretty 
lona  Island^  noted  as  a  picnic  resort.  In  the  heart  of  the  Highland  Pass, 
a  beautiful  view  is  obtained  of  *  West  Point,  the  seat  of  the  U.  S. 
Military  Academy,  with  fine  buildings  on  a  broad  terrace  15*7  ft.  above 
the  river.  Garrison'' s  (51  miles)  is  a  station  on  the  R.  R.  nearly  oppo- 
site West  Point.  Just  above  West  Point,  on  the  same  side,  is  Cro'  Nest^ 
one  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Highland  group,  and  then  comes  Storm  King^ 
the  last  of  the  range  on  the  W.  On  the  E,  side,  scarcely  visible  from 
the  cars,  are  Mt.  Taurus^  Breakneck^  and  Beacon  Hill^  which  are  among 
the  most  commanding  features  of  the  river  scenery.  At  the  end  of  the 
Highlands  the  river  again  expands  into  the  broad  Neiohurg  Bay^  on  the 
W.  shore  of  which  is  Newburg,  a  beautifully-situated  city  of  23,08'7 
inhabitants.  In  this  vicinity  occurred  many  of  the  important  events 
of  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  Washington's  headquarters,  an  old 
gray-stone  mansion  south  of  the  town,  is  still  preserved  under  the 
ownership  of  the  State.  Connected  with  Newburg  by  ferry,  and  on 
the  line  of  the  railroad,  is  Fishkill,  a  place  with  important  manufactur- 
ing interests.  The  Verplanck  House^  2  miles  from  the  landing,  was 
once  the  headquarters  of  Baron  Steuben,  of  Revolutionary  fame. 
Poughkeepsie  (75  miles)  is  the  largest  city  between  New  York  and 
Albany  on  the  railway.  It  contains  22,206  inhabitants,  and  is  the  site 
of  Vassar  College  and  other  famous  educational  institutions.  Crossing 
the  Hudson  at  this  point  is  a  cantilever  bridge  If  miles  long.  It  rests 
on  four  pyramidal  steel  towers  100  ft.  high;  and  there  are  three  canti- 
levers of  648  ft.  each,  and  two  connecting  spans  of  525  ft.  each.     The 


Route  66.]  J^EW  YORK  TO   CHICAGO.  291 

Central  New  England  &  Western  E.  R.  uses  this  bridge,  and  affords 
unbroken  communication  between  the  Pennsylvania  coal-fields  and  the 
New  England  cities.  Above  Poughkeepsie,  on  either  bank,  are  many 
pleasant  towns  and  fine  country-seats,  but  the  river-banks  are  for  the 
most  part  low  and  uninteresting.  Just  before  reaching  Hudson  the 
noble  range  of  the  Catskill  Mountains  is  seen  along  the  W.  horizon. 
Catskill.^  whence  these  are  visited,  offers  a  pleasant  view  aci'oss  the  river, 
with  the  spacious  Prospect  Park  Hotel  on  an  elevated  plateau  above  the 
landing.  Hudson  (115  miles)  is  a  flourishing  city  of  9,970  inhabit- 
ants, at  the  head  of  ship-navigation  on  the  river.  The  heights  back  of 
the  city  command  majestic  views  of  the  Catskills.  Between  Hudson  and 
Albany  is  Rhinecliff^  which  is  connected  with  Rondout  and  Kings- 
ton on  the  W,  bank  of  the  river,  and  where  the  trains  of  the  Ulster  & 
Delaware  R.  R.  may  be  taken  for  Catskill  Mountain  resorts.  Albany 
(143  miles)  is  the  capital  of  New  York  State,  and  is  a  city  of  94,923 
inhabitants,  beautifully  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hudson  near 
the  head  of  tide-water.  It  contains  many  features  of  interest,  and  the 
tourist  who  has  time  to  stop  over  will  find  them  all  described  on  page  72. 
The  through  trains  make  but  a  short  pause  at  Albany,  and  then  run 
on  over  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.,  which  traverses  the  entire  length  of 
New  York  State  from  Albany  to  Buffalo,  passing  through  the  rich  and 
populous  midland  counties.  The  scenery  along  this  portion  of  the  route 
is  mostly  of  a  pastoral  character,  with  nothing  bold  or  striking,  but  with 
much  that  is  pleasing.  The  famous  valley  of  the  Mohawk  is  first 
traversed.  The  river,  now  quiet,  now  rushing  along  its  rocky  bed,  is 
continually  in  sight,  the  hills  bounding  the  valley  adding  to  the  pictur- 
esqueness  of  the  view,  and  the  many  villages  clustering  along  the  line 
giving  evidence  of  solid  prosperity.  The  Erie  Canal  traverses  the 
State  from  Albany  to  Buffalo,  nearly  on  the  same  line  with  the  railroad. 
Schenectady  (160  miles)  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State,  and  is 
distinguished  as  the  site  of  Union  College.  Just  beyond  Schenectady 
the  train  crosses  the  Mohawk  and  the  Erie  Canal  on  a  bridge  1,000  ft. 
long.  Little  Falls  (217  miles)  is  remarkable  for  a  bold  passage  of  the 
river  and  canal  through  a  wild  and  most  picturesque  defile.  The  next 
station  is  Herkimer  (226  miles),  the  starting-point  of  the  Adirondack 
&  St.  Lawrence  R.  R.,  which  pierces  the  Adirondack  wilderness  and 
makes  direct  connection  at  Coteau  Junction  for  Montreal,  etc.  Utica 
(238  miles)  is  a  manufacturing  city  of  44,007  inhabitants,  on  the  S.  bank 
of  the  Mohawk,  nearly  in  the  center  of  New  York  State,  and  from  where 
connection  is  made  with  the  Rome,  Ogdensburg  &  Watertown  R.  R. 
for  the  Adirondack  Region  and  the  Thousand  Isles.  The  State  Luna- 
tic Asylum  here  holds  high  rank  among  the  institutions  of  the  kind. 
Rome  (252  miles)  is  a  city  of  14,991  inhabitants,  with  fine  buildings, 
and  is  one  of  the  chief  lumber  markets  of  the  State.  It  was  formerly 
the  site  of  Fort  Stanwix,  and  the  battle  of  Oriskany  was  fought  near 
here.  Syracuse  (291  miles)  is  the  next  important  city  on  the  line  of 
the  road,  and  is  famous  for  its  salt-springs,  the  chemical  works  of  the 
Solvay  Process  Co.,  and  other  manufactories.  Next  comes  Roches- 
ter (371  miles),  the  metropolis  of  Central  New  York,  with  a  popu- 


292  KEW  tOEK  TO  CHICAGO.  [Route  66. 

lation  of  133,896,  and  the  site  of  the  celebrated  Genesee  Falls.  The  train 
passes  about  100  rods  S.  of  the  most  southerly  fall,  so  that  passengers 
in  crossing  lose  the  view.  At  Loekport  (428  miles)  the  wonderful  sys- 
tem of  locks  by  which  the  Erie  Canal  descends  from  the  level  of  Lake 
Erie  to  the  Genesee  level  is  visible  from  the  windows  of  the  cars.  The 
Michigan  Central  R.  R.  connects  with  the  New  York  Central  at  Niagara 
Falls  and  Buif alo.  By  the  former  route  the  trains  pass  over  a  canti- 
lever bridge  895  ft.  in  length,  and,  in  crossing,  the  passenger  has  a  fine 
view  of  the  Falls  on  one  side  and  the  Whii'lpool  Rapids  on  the  other. 
At  Falls'  View  all  express  trains  stop  five  minutes  to  allow  a  view  of 
the  Falls  from  the  verge  of  the  embankment.  The  point  of  view  is 
directly  above  the  Horseshoe  Falls,  and  the  eye  takes  in  the  entire  ex- 
tent of  the  Horseshoe  and  American  Falls,  with  Goat  Island  between. 
Bufl'alo  is  reached  in  436  miles.  This  is  the  third  city  in  size  of  New 
York  State  (population,  255,664),  situated  at  the  E.  end  of  Lake  Erie,  at 
the  head  of  Niagara  River.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  & 
Hudson  River  R.  R.,  the  Erie  R.  R.,  and  of  other  less  important  lines ; 
also  the  terminus  of  the  Erie  Canal,  which  extends  E.  to  the  Hudson 
River  at  Albany,  giving  Buffalo  a  commerce  which  surpasses  that  of 
many  maritime  cities.  The  tourist  will  find  it  worth  his  while  to  stop  a 
day  or  two  at  this  interesting  city,  in  which  case  he  should  consult  the 
detailed  description  of  the  city  and  its  environs  given  in  Route  40, 

h. 

Another  route  is  as  described  above,  except  the  interval  between  Buffalo  and 
Detroit,  to  the  new  suspension  bridge,  thence  by  the  Grand  Trunk  line. 

At  *  Suspension  Bridge  (446  miles)  the  train  crosses  the  Niagara 
River,  in  view  of  the  Falls  and  of  the  rapids  i-ushing  to  the  whirlpool 
below.  The  bridge  was  long  regarded  as  one  of  the  achievements  of 
modern  engineering.  It  is  800  ft.  long  from  tower  to  tower,  is  258  ft. 
above  the  water,  and  was  finished  in  1855  at  a  cost  of  $500,000. 

From  Suspension  Bridge  to  Detroit  the  route  runs  through  Canada, 
and  is  most  uninteresting,  though  the  road  (the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.)  is 
an  adinirable  one.  In  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Catherine's  (458  miles), 
noted  for  its  mineral  springs,  and  Hamilton  (491  miles)  there  is  some 
attractive  scenery ;  but  with  these  exceptions  everything  is  dull,  flat,  and 
monotonous,  and  the  traveler  will  be  glad  when,  emerging  from  a  deep 
cut  he  suddenly  comes  upon  the  bank  of  the  Detroit  River  at  Windsor 
(676  miles),  opposite  Detroit.  Here  the  train  is  transferred  to  the  other 
side  of  the  river  on  a  steam  ferry-boat,  and  the  route  is  resumed  on  the 
line  of  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R. 

For  a  detailed  description  of  this  route,  see  The  Canadian  Guide 
Book,  Part  I,  Eastern  Canada. 

Detroit. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  leading  hotels  are  the  Gnffen  House,  the  Griswold 
House,  the  Hotel  Cadillac,  the  Hotel  Noi^mandie,  tie  Russell  House,  and  the 
Wayne.  Nine  lines  of  street-cars  intersect  the  city,  and  four  fer7'y-boats  ply 
across  the  river  to  Windsor,  on  the  Canadian  side.  There  are  numerous  steam- 
boat lines  with  boats  running  frequently  to  various  points  on  the  lakes. 


Route  66.1  NEW   YOKK  TO    CHICAGO.  293 

Detroit,  the  chief  city  of  Michigan,  is  situated  on  the  N.  bank  of 
the  Detroit  River,  a  stream  20  miles  long,  with  a  depth  of  water  suffi- 
cient for  the  largest  vessels,  connecting  Lakes  Erie  and  St.  Clair.  The 
city  extends  along  the  bank  for  about  7  miles,  and  is  built  up  for  about 
2-|  miles  from  the  water.  For  at  least  6  miles  the  river-front  is  lined 
with  mills,  dry-docks,  ship-yards,  foundries,  grain-elevators,  railway- 
depots,  warehouses,  lumber-yards,  and  rolling-mills.  For  a  short  distance 
from  the  river-bank  the  ground  rises  gradually,  and  then  becomes  per- 
fectly level,  furnishing  an  admirable  site  for  a  large  city.  Detroit  is  laid 
out  upon  two  plans :  the  one,  that  of  a  circle  with  avenues  radiating  from 
the  Grand  Circus  as  a  center;  the  other,  that  of  streets  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles.  The  result  is  a  slight  degree  of  intricacy  in  certain 
localities,  which  inconvenience  is  more  than  compensated  by  a  number 
of  little  semicircular  and  triangular  parks  which  diversify  and  ornament 
the  place.  The  avenues  are  from  100  to  200  ft.  wide ;  the  streets  vary 
in  width  from  50  to  100  ft.,  and  are  generally  shaded  by  an  abundance 
of  trees. 

The  site  of  Detroit  was  visited  by  the  French  as  early  as  1610  ;  but  no  per- 
manent settlement  was  made  until  1701,  when  Fort  Pontchartrain  was  built.  In 
1760  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  and  in  1763  was  besieged  for  11 
months  \>j  Pontiac,  in.  his  attempt  to  expel  the  whites  from  that  region.  In 
1783  Detroit  was  ceded  to  the  United  States,  but  the  Americans  did  not  take 
possession  of  it  till  1796.  Dming  the  War  of  1812  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
British,  but  was  recaptured  in  1813.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1824,  when 
its  population  was  less  than  2,000,  and  in  1890  it  had  205,876  inhabitants.  The 
manufactures  of  the  city  are  important,  including  extensive  iron-works  and 
machine-shops,  railroad-car  factories,  drugs  and  pharmaceutical  preparations, 
flour-mills,  breweries,  and  tobacco  and  cigar  factories,  tanneries,  boot  and  shoe 
and  stove  factories,  and  potteries,  etc.  The  shipping  interests  are  also  large, 
while  pork  and  fish  packing  employ  numerous  hands. 

The  principal  streets  of  the  city  are  Jefferson  Ave.,  parallel  with  the 
river;  Woodward  Ave.,  which  crosses  the  former  at  right  angles, 
and  divides  the  city  into  two  nearly  equal  parts ;  and  Fort  St.,  Cadillac 
■  Square,  Grand  River  Ave.,  and  Gratiot,  Washington,  Madison,  Michigan, 
and  Monroe  Aves.,  at  angles  with  Woodward  Ave.  Griswold  St.  is  the 
financial  thoroughfare  of  the  city.  Adelaide  and  Alfred  Sts.,  Edmund 
Place  and  Stimson  Place,  and  Davenport  St.  are  pleasant  residence- 
streets.  Cass  Ave.  is  the  fashionable  drive.  The  Grand  Circus  Park, 
half  a  mile  back  from  the  river,  is  semicircular  in  form,  and  is  divided 
by  Woodward  Ave.  into  two  quadrants,  each  containing  a  fountain. 
About  half-way  between  the  river  and  the  Grand  Circus  is  the  Campus 
Martius,  an  open  space  600  ft.  long  and  250  ft.  wide,  which  is  crossed 
by  Woodward  and  Michigan  Avenues,  and  from  which  radiate  Monroe 
Ave.  and  Fort  St.  Facing  the  Campus  Martius  on  the  W.  is  the  *  City- 
Hall,  a  handsome  structure  in  the  Italian  style,  200  ft.  long,  90  ft. 
wide,  and  180  ft.  high  to  the  top  of  the  tower,  completed  in  1871,  at 
a  cost  of  $600,000.  From  the  top  of  the  tower  a  bird's-eye-view  is 
aiforded  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country  which  is  worth  seeing.  In 
front  of  the  City  Hall  is  a  fme^  Soldiers'  3 fommie7it,.  designed  by  Ran- 
dolph Rogers,  and  erected  in  memory  of  the  Michigan  soldiers  who  fell 
in  the  civil  war.     Near  by  is  the  artistic  drinking-fountain  presented  to 


294  NEW  YOEK  TO   CHIOAao.  [Route  66. 

the  city  by  John  J,  Bagley,  a  former  Governor  of  the  State.  Pacing 
the  Campus  Martins  on  the  N.  is  the  Detroit  Opera-House^  and  facing 
it  on  the  E.  is  the  Market.  The  Custom-House.,  which  also  contains  the 
Post-Office.1  is  a  large  stone  building  in  Griswold  St,  The  Board  of 
Trade  Building.,  cor.  Jefferson  Ave.  and  Griswold  St.,  is  spacious  and 
ornate.  The  *  Freight  Depot  of  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  stands  on 
the  wharf,  and  consists  of  a  single  room,  1,250  ft.  long  and  102  ft. 
wide,  covered  by  a  self-sustaining  roof  of  corrugated  iron.  The  passen- 
ger station  of  this  road  at  the  foot  of  3d  St.  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
State.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  great  WJieat-Elevators  of  different  rail- 
way and  other  corporate  companies.  Besides  the  Detroit  Opera-House, 
there  are  the  Grand  and  Whitney  Grand  Opera- Houses.,  and  several 
large  public  halls.  A  fine  Y.  M.  C.  A,  building  has  been  erected  on 
the  cor.  of  Griswold  St.  and  Grand  River  Ave.,  with  library,  gymnasium, 
public  hall,  etc.  The  Police  Headquarters  Building  is  a  spacious  struct- 
ure. The  Museum  of  Art  building  on  Jefferson  Ave.  contains  an  ex- 
cellent exhibit,  including  the  Scripps  collection  of  old  masters  and  the 
Frederick  Stearns  collection  of  Japanese,  Chinese,  and  East  Indian 
curios,  numbering  some  15,000  pieces. 

The  churches  of  Detroit  are  noted  for  their  number  and  beauty. 
The  *  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  (Roman  Catholic), 
Jefferson  Ave.  cor.  of  St.  Antoine  St.,  is  the  largest  church-edifice  in 
the  State,  though  very  plain  in  outward  appearance.  St.  Josephs  (Roman 
Catholic)  is  a  handsome  building.  *St.  Paul's  (Episcopal),  cor.  Con- 
gress and  Shelby  Sts.,  is  the  parent  church  of  the  diocese,  and  is  famous 
for  its  beautiful  roof,  which  is  self-sustaining.  Other  handsome  Episcopal 
churches  are  Chrisfs,  on  Jefferson  Ave.  above  Hastings  St.,  St.  John^s, 
on  Woodward  Ave.,  and  Grace,  on  Fort  St.  The  First  Congregational, 
Unitarian,  and  the  First  Presbyterian  Churches  are  fine  structures  of 
large  size  and  of  different  styles  of  renaissance  architecture,  and  are 
on  opposite  corners  of  Woodward  Ave.  and  Edmund  PI.  The  Fort 
St.  Presbyterian  (Fort  St.,  cor.  3d)  has  a  handsome  front  and  a  beau- 
tiful interior.  The  Baptist  Church,  in  Woodward  Ave.,  cor.  of  Winder 
St.,  of  Ionic  stone,  is  perhaps  even  finer.  The  Central  Church  (Meth- 
odist), in  Woodward  Ave.,  has  a  richly-decorated  interior,  and  is  the 
oldest  Protestant  church  in  the  city.  The  Jefferson  Ave.  Presbyterian, 
above  Rivard  St.,  the  Westminster  Presbyterian,  cor.  Woodward  and  Par- 
sons Sts.,  the  First  Baptist,  on  Cass  Ave.,  and  the  Woodward  Ave.  Con- 
gregational, are  all  fine  edifices.  There  are  several  libraries  in  the  city, 
of  which  the  principal  is  the  Public  Library,  containing  100,000  volumes. 
The  *  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  in  Jefferson  Ave.  near  St. 
Antoine  St.,  is  a  large  and  beautiful  building.  The  House  of  Correc- 
tion, in  the  N.  portion  of  the  city,  is  used  principally  for  the  confine- 
ment of  petty  criminals.  Directly  opposite  is  a  home  for  discharged 
female  prisoners,  who  are  received  here  and  furnished  with  work  until 
places  can  be  found  for  them  out  of  the  reach  of  the  influences  pre- 
viously surrounding  them.  The  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  on  the  bank  of 
the  river  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  coinmands  a  fine  view  of  the 
Canada   shore.     Harper  and  Grace  Hospitals  in   John  R.  St.,  and  St, 


Eoute  66.']  NEW    YORK   TO    CHICAGO.  295 

Mary''s  in  St.  Antoine  St.,  are  also  fine  edifices.  JElmwood  Conetery  \s,  a 
beautiful  burying-ground  within  the  city  limits  (reached  by  street-cars). 
Woodmere  Cemetery,  on  high  ground,  4  miles  W.  of  the  city,  is  of  recent 
origin.  Fort  Wayne  is  a  bastioned  fortification  inclosing  65  acres, 
about  3  miles  below  the  city,  standing  upon  the  bank  of  the  river  and 
completely  commanding  the  channel.  It  is  the  largest  and  strongest 
fortress  in  the  lake  x^egion.  The  Fort  St.  and  Ehnwood  street-cars  run 
to  the  fort  gate,  and  it  is  also  a  favorite  point  to  which  rides  and  drives 
are  taken.  Below  Fort  Wayne,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rouge  River,  is 
the  International  Fair  and  Exposition  building,  with  extensive  grounds. 
Annual  exhibits  are  held  here.  Belle  Me,  an  island  containing  '700 
acres,  lying  near  the  head  of  Detroit  River,  was  laid  out  as  a  park  by 
Frederick  L.  Olmsted.  It  is  connected  by  a  bridge  with  the  main- 
land, and  contains  a  casino,  drives  and  walks,  a  broad  canal  with  pleas- 
ure-boats, and  other  artificial  features.  Grosse  Point,  projecting  into 
Lake  St.  Clair,  9  miles  above  the  city,  is  at  the  end  of  a  beautiful  drive, 
and  contains  many  summer  residences.  Across  Lake  St.  Clair,  and 
passing  up  the  U.  S.  Ship  Canal,  the  St.  Clair  Flats  are  reached,  which 
is  well  known  as  a  resort  for  sportsmen.  Passing  Marine  City,  with 
its  extensive  ship-yards,  we  reach  St.  Clair  Springs,  famous  for  its  min- 
eral springs  and  its  curative  baths.  The  OakUmd  House  is  the  princi- 
pal hotel. 


From  Detroit  the  route  is  via  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R.,. which 
traverses  a  fine  agricultural  country,  the  general  aspect  of  which  is 
pleasing,  especially  in  spring  and  summer,  but  Which  is  not  of  a  strik- 
ing or  picturesque  character.  In  many  places  it  passes  through  dense 
virgin  woods,  and  in  others  across  and  along  the  winding  rivers  which 
abundantly  water  this  section  of  Michican.  Ypsilanti  (30  miles  from 
Detroit)  is  a  thriving  city  of  6,129  inhabitants,  on  the  Huron  River, 
which  furnishes  water-power  for  several  flour-mills,  paper-mills,  and  other 
factories.  The  State  Normal  School  is  located  here.  Beyond  Ypsilanti 
the  train  follows  the  Huron  River  and  passes  in  8  miles  to  Ann  Arbor 
[Cook  Hotel,  Franklin  House,  Germania,  and  New  Arlington),  a  city  of 
9,431  inhabitants,  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  known  as  the  seat  of 
the  *  University  of  Michigan,  one  of  the  leading  institutions  of 
learning  in  the  West.  With  fees  little  more  than  nominal,  and  a  high 
standard  of  scholarship,  the  University  attracts  students  from  every 
part  of  the  country,  and  is  open  to  both  sexes.  The  University 
buildings  stand  in  the  midst  of  grounds  comprising  44-|-  acres,  and 
thickly  planted  with  trees.  University  Hall  is  347  ft.  long  and  140 
ft.  deep,  and  is  devoted  to  the  uses  of  the  department  of  literature, 
science,  and  art.  There  are  also  buildings  for  the  departments  of  law, 
medicine,  pharmacy,  and  dentistry,  two  hospitals,  a  chemical  laboratory, 
and  a  residence  for  the  president,  but  no  dormitories.  The  Ohserva- 
tory  is  on  a  hill  about  a  mile  from  the  other  buildings.  The  fire-proof 
library  of  the  University  contains  60,000  volumes,  and  has  capacity 
for  115,000,     The  museums  are  large  and  valuable,  and  include  collec- 


296  IfEW   YORK  TO   CHICAGO.  [Route  66. 

tions  in  natural  history,  the  industrial  arts,  archaeology  and  ethnology, 
and  the  Chinese  exhibit.  The  number  of  students  will  average  not  less 
than  2,400.  The  building  of  the  Union  School  at  Ann  Arbor  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  State,  accommodating  1,000  pupils.  There  are  five 
mineral  springs  in  the  city,  an  opera-house,  and  several  fine  churches. 
There  is  a  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building,  and  Harris  Hall  fills  a  similar  func- 
tion for  the  Episcopal  Church.  There  are  also  several  guilds  connected 
with  the  different  churches  at  which  lecture-courses  are  given.  Jack- 
son {Hihhard  House,  Hurd  House)  is  753  miles  from  New  York,  and  is 
a  busy  manufacturing  city  of  20,798  inhabitants,  on  the  Grand  Eiver, 
at  the  intersection  of  six  railroads.  It  lies  on  the  edge  of  the  coal- 
deposits  of  the  State,  and  the  mines  can  be  seen  from  the  cars.  The 
city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  substantially  built.  Several  of  the  churches 
and  the  two  Union  school-houses  are  handsome  edifices.  The  Michigan 
State  Penitentiary,  with  spacious  stone  buildings,  is  located  here,  and 
the  Passenger  Depot  of  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  State.  The  manufactures  are  extensive  and  various.  At  Parma, 
11  miles  beyond  Jackson,  the  road  reaches  the  Kalamazoo  River,  which 
it  follows  to  Kalamazoo,  passing  through  a  fertile  country  noted  for  its 
wheat,  Marshall  (785  miles)  is  a  very  pretty  town  of  3,968  inhabitants, 
noted  for  its  flour ;  and  Battle  Creek  (798  miles)  is  a  milling  city  of 
13,197  inhabitants,  at  the  confluence  of  Battle  Creek  and  the  Kalama- 
zoo River.  Battle  Creek  College  is  the  chief  school  of  the  Seventh-day 
Baptists,  who  likewise  have  their  publishing  headquarters  here.  Twenty- 
three  miles  beyond  Battle  Creek  is  Kalamazoo  {Burdick  House,  Kala- 
mazoo), with  a  population  of  17,853.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  broad, 
well-shaded  streets,  and  contains  many  fine  business  structures  and 
costly  residences.  The  buildings  of  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum  are  spa- 
cious and  imposing ;  and  Kalamazoo  College  (Baptist)  and  the  Michigan 
Femcde  Seminary  arc  flourishing  institutions.  The  manufactories  are 
numerous  and  varied.  Niles  (868  miles)  is  a  handsome  and  well-built 
city  of  4,197  inhabitants,  on  the  St.  Joseph  River,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich 
agricultural  region.  The  remaining  stations  are  unimportant,  being 
chiefly  junctions  with  connecting  railways.     Chicago  (see  Route  71). 

c. 

'  Another  route  to  Chicago  and  the  West  is  via  the  West  Shore  E.  R.,  Great 
Western  Div.  of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  to  Detroit,  thence  by  the  Michigan 
Central  R.  R.  Distances  :  Newburg,  56  miles  ;  Catskill,  110  miles  ;  Coeyman's 
Junction,  128  miles  ;  Schenectady,  1.53  miles  ;  Utica,  231  miles  ;  Syracuse,  278 
miles  ;  Rochester,  366  miles  ;  Buffalo,  426  miles  ;  Suspension  Bridge,  444  miles  ; 
Hamilton,  488  miles  ;  London,  573  miles  ;  Detroit,  673  miles  ;  Chicago,  975  miles. 
Complete  drawing-room  service  is  attached  to  the  day  trains,  and  sleepers  to 
the  night  trains. 

The  West  Shore  R.  R.^  runs  from  Jersey  City  (Penn.  R.  R.  depot),  or 
by  ferry  foot  of  42d  St.  to  Weehawken,  along  the  W.  Shore  of  the  Hud- 
son River  to  Coeyman''s  Junction,  where  the  main  line  diverges  to  the 

1  The  description  of  the  route  to  Buff alo  is  a  mere  summary,  designed  to  meet 
the  wants  of  west-bound  passengers.  Fuller  details  will  be  found  in  the  section 
of  the  route  devoted  to  the  ]S[ew  England  and  the  Middle  States  (Route  42), 


Route  67.]  NEW    YORK.   TO    CHICAGO.  297 

West,  the  branch  continuing  to  Albany,  It  runs  parallel  with  and  close  to 
the  X.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  from  Coeyman's  Junction  to  Buffalo,  a  distance 
of  310  miles,  touching  many  of  the  same  towns  and  cities.  The  road 
from  Weehawken  passes  in  the  rear  of  the  Palisades  through  several  small 
towns  in  Xew  Jersey,  and  reaches  HacJcensacJc  (9  miles),  a  thriving  and 
beautiful  country  town,  full  of  quaint  old  houses.  The  adjacent  region 
is  full  of  fine  dairy  farms,  and,  though  not  specially  picturesque,  is  highly 
cultivated  and  interesting.  A  number  of  small  towns  intervene,  and, 
just  before  reaching  Tappan,  the  town  where  Major  Andre  was  tried 
and  executed  as  a  spy  in  1778,  the  train  enters  New  York  State.  Nyack 
(24  miles),  a  town  of  4,111  inhabitants,  is  on  Tappan  Bay,  and  lies  at  the 
foot  of  and  on  the  side  of  a  range  of  low,  picturesque  hills.  It  is  noted 
for  its  great  number  of  beautiful  and  costly  villas  amidst  shaded  and 
park-like  grounds,  and  it  has  a  number  of  summer  hotels,  which  accommo- 
date many  visitors.  The  railroad  runs  somewhat  W.  of  the  town  through 
Nyack  West^  and  passes  through  a  half-dozen  stations,  among  Avhich  are 
Congers  ov  Rockland Lake^  one  of  the  most  beautiful  suburban  resorts  on 
the  line,  and  Haverstraio^  a  brisk  and  thriving  town  on  Haverstraw  Bay, 
and  lying  on  the  slope  of  the  Ramapo  Hills,  before  reaching  West  Point 
(47  miles).  This  beautiful  spot  is  the  seat  of  the  United  States 
Military  Academy,  and  is  one  of  the  most  noted  places  on  the  Hudson,  and 
a  very  attractive  summer  resort.  Neuihurg  is  14  miles  beyond,  a  thriving 
city,  which,  as  well  as  other  places  just  mentioned,  will  be  found  re- 
ferred to  in  the  present  Route  a.  Kingston  (88  miles),  Catskill  (110 
miles),  the  points  of  departure  for  the  Catskill  Mts.,  and  Coxsackie  (120 
miles),  are  the  only  places  of  interest  before  reaching  Coeymaii's  Junc- 
tion (128  miles),  where  the  road  begins  its  curve  to  the  west,  and 
diverges  from  the  Albany  route.  In  24  miles  S.  Schenectady  is  reached, 
and  from  this  point  to  Buffalo  the  I'oad  passes  close  to  the  line  of  the 
y.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.  R.  R.  through  the  whole  of  its  length.  As  the  two 
roads  pass  through  the  same  principal  towns,  the  reader  is  referred  to 
the  present  Route  a  for  a  description. 

The  west-bound  through  train  at  Buffalo  takes  the  track  of  the 
N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  to  Suspeiision  Bridge.  Here  the  train  takes  the 
track  of  the  Southern  Div.  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Hence  the 
route  is  as  described  in  present  Route  h. 

67.  New  York  to  Chicago  via  Buffalo  and  Cleveland. 

By  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  E.  R.  to  Bitffalo,  and  thence  by  the 
Lake  Shore  &  Michigan  Southern  R.  R.  Through  trains,  with  complete  draw- 
ing-room and  sleeping-car  service  attached,  run  through  without  change,  mak- 
ing the  journey  in  about  30  hours.  The  "^iew  York  &  Chicago  Limited'" 
is  composed  exclusively  of  sleeping,  drawing-room,  smoking,  buffet,  library,  and 
dining  cars,  leaving  New  York  at  10  a.  m.,  and  reaching  Chicago  9.45  a.  m.  next- 
day.  Its  schedule-time  between  New  York  and  Chicago  is  less  than  25  hours. 
The  cost  of  travel  is  somewhat  more,  but  this  is  compensated  for  by  added  com- 
fort and  gain  in  time.  Distances  :  New  York  to  Albanv,  143  miles  ;  to  ITtica, 
.238  :  to  Rome,  252  ;  to  Syracuse,  291  :  to  Rochester,  371  ;  to  Buffalo.  440  :  to 
Dunkirk,  480  ;  to  Erie,  528  :  to  Cleveland.  623  ;  to  Toledo,  736  ;  to  Elkhart,  869  ; 
to  Chicago,  979.  The  Erie  R.  R.  also  seUs  tickets  by  the  L.  S.  &  M.  S.  R.  R.. 
with  which  it  connects  (with  change  of  cars)  at  Buffalo  and  Dunkirk. 


298  NEW   YOEK   TO   CHICAGO.  {Boute  67. 

From  New  York  to  Rocliester  this  route  is  the  same  as  Route  66. 
Leaving  Rochester,  the  train  runs  W.  to  Buffalo,  passing  several  small 
towns,  of  which  the  only  one  requiring  notice  is  Batavia,  which  con- 
tains 7,221  inhabitants,  and  is  laid  out  in  broad  streets,  beautifully 
shaded.  The  N.  Y.  State  Institution  for  the  Blind,  one  of  the  finest 
structures  of  the  kind  in  the  country,  is  located  here.  A  monument 
to  William  Morgan,  erected  by  the  Anti-Masons,  consisting  of  a  shaft 
of  Vermont  granite  surmounted  by  a  full-length  statue,  may  be  seen 
from  the  train.     (For  Buffalo,  see  Route  66  a.) 

The  through  train  makes  a  short  stop  in  the  Union  Depot  at  Buf- 
falo, and  then  passes  out  on  the  tracks  of  the  Lake  Shore  &  Michigan 
Southern  R.  R.,  with  which  line  it  forms  an  unbroken  all-rail  route  from 
New  York  to  Chicago,  then  skirting  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  and  in  40 
miles  reaching  Dunkirk  (480  miles  from  New  York),  where  close  con- 
nection is  made  with  Erie  R.  R.  Just  beyond  Dunkirk  the  road  leaves 
New  York  State  and  crosses  the  upper  corner  of  Pennsylvania  to  Erie 
(528  miles),  an  old,  pleasant,  and  important  lake  city,  with  40,634  inhab- 
itants and  extensive  commerce  and  manufactures  (fully  described  in  Route 
53).  Conneaut  (556  miles)  is  the  first  station  in  Ohio,  and  is  noted  as 
the  landing-place  of  the  party  who  first  settled  N.  W.  Ohio.  Painesville 
(595  miles)  is  charmingly  situated  on  Grand  River,  3  miles  from  and 
about  100  ft.  above  Lake  Erie.  The  valley  through  which  the  river 
runs  is  deep  and  picturesque,  and  the  railroad  crosses  it  on  a  stone 
bridge  more  than  800  ft.  long.  Twenty-eight  miles  beyond  Painesville 
the  train  reaches 

Cleveland. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  American  House,  128  Superior  St.  ;  the  Forest  City 
House,  cor.  Superior  St.  and  Public  Square  ;  the  Hawley  Hovse,  in  St.  Clair  St. ; 
the  HoUenden,  cor.  Superior  and  Bond  Sts.;  the  Kennard  House,  cor.  St.  Clair 
and  Bank  Sts. ;  the  Stillman,  Euclid  Ave.  near  Erie  St. ;  and  the  Weddell  House, 
cor.  Superior  and  Bank  Sts.  There  are  numerous  smaller  houses.  Several 
bridges  cross  the  Cuyahoga,  connecting  the  different  portions  of  the  city.  There 
are  2  cable  and  a  number  of  electric  car  lines  that  intersect  the  city  in  all  direc- 
tions and  extend  into  the  suburbs.  Reading-rooms  at  the  Public  Library 
(75,000  vols.),  the  Case  Library  (30,000  vols.),  and  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  rooms,  cor. 
Prospect  and  Erie  Sts. 

Cleveland,  the  second  city  in  size  and  importance  in  Ohio,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  River. 
Originally  the  town  was  confined  to  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  but  sub- 
sequently Brookljm,  or  Ohio  City,  sprang  up  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
both  parts  are  now  united  under  one  corporation.  The  greater  portion 
of  the  city  stands  on  a  gravelly  plain,  elevated  about  100  ft.  above  the 
lake.  The  river  passes  through  it  in  a  winding  course,  affording  an 
excellent  harbor,  which  has  been  improved  by  dredging  out  a  commo- 
dious ship-channel  (branching  from  the  river  near  its  mouth),  and  by 
the  erection  of  2  piers  200  ft.  apart,  stretching  several  hundred  feet 
into  the  lake.  On  each  pier  is  a  lighthouse.  The  Breakwater  just  W. 
of  the  river's  mouth,  erected  at  an  expense  to  the  United  States  of 
$1,200,000,  incloses  180  acres  of  water,  and  affords  a  safe  harbor.  An- 
other Breakwater  is  under  construction  on  the  east  side.     The  city  is 


Route  67.]  NEW   YORK   TO    CHICAGO.  299 

laid  out  with  much  taste,  chiefly  in  squares,  the  streets  being  remark- 
ably wide  and  well  paved.  The  abundance  of  shade-trees,  chiefly  elms, 
his  given  it  the  title  of  the  "Forest  City."  The  great  stone  *  Via- 
duct which  spans  the  river- valley  between  two  divisions  of  the  city, 
on  a  level  with  the  plateau,  was  completed  in  18*78,  and  is  Justly  reck- 
oned among  the  triumphs  of  American  engineering.  It  extends  from 
the  foot  of  Superior  St.  to  the  junction  of  Pearl  and  Detroit  Sts.,  and 
is  3,211  ft.  long.  A  second  viaduct,  the  Central^  connects  the  central 
part  of  the  city  with  the  south  side.  A  third  viaduct  crosses  Wal- 
worth Run  between  the  south  and  west  sides ;  and  a  fourth  Kings- 
bury Run.  These  viaducts  form  a  belt  elevated  roadway  connecting 
the  three  parts  of  the  city. 

The  growth  of  Cleveland  has  been  very  rapid.  It  was  laid  out  in  1796,  but 
in  1830  contained  only  1,000  inhabitants.  It  received  its  first  impetus  from  the 
completion,  in  1834,  of  the  Ohio  Canal,  which  connects  Lake  Erie  at  this  point 
with  the  Ohio  River  at  Portsmouth  A  further  stimnlus  was  o-iven  after  1850  by 
the  development  of  the  railroad  system  ;  and  since  1860  its  prosperity  has  been 
greatly  increased  by  the  rapid  extension  of  manufacturing  industry.  In  1870 
the  population  w-as  92,829,  and  according  to  the  census  of  1880  w^as  160,142.  The 
census  for  1890  gave  261,353  inhabitants..  The  commerce  of  the  city  is  very  large, 
especially  with  Canada  and  the  mining  regions  of  Lake  Superior.  Its  iron  and 
steel  manufactories  are  numerous  and  extensive.  It  is  noted  for  prominence  in 
coal-oil  refining  and  industries  connected  with  it.  Other  important  products 
are  sulphuric  acid,  wooden-w^are,  agricultural  implements,  marble  and  stone, 
railroad-cars,  sewing-machines,  and  white  lead.  It  is  the  principal  ship-buUd- 
ing  port  on  the  Great  Lakes. 

The  chief  business  thoroughfare  of  the  city  is  Superior'  St.  Other 
important  business  streets  are  Ontario^  Water,  Bank,  Seneca,  St.  Clair, 
Euclid  Ave.,  Mervnn,  and  River,  on  the  E.  side,  and  Detroit,  Pearl, 
and  Lorain,  on  the  W.  side.  After  leaving  the  business  portion, 
which  extends  from  the  Park  to  Erie  St.,  Euclid  Ave.  is  lined 
with  costly  residences,  each  surrounded  by  ample  grounds,  and  is  con- 
sidered the  handsomest  street  in  the  country.  Prospect  St.,  parallel 
to  the  avenue,  ranks  next  in  beauty.  *  Monumental  Park  is  a 
square  of  10  acres  in  the  center  of  the  city,  at  the  intersection  of 
Ontario  and  Superior  Sts.,  which  divide  it  into  4  smaller  squares. 
It  is  shaded  with  fine  trees,  and  is  well  kept.  In  the  S.  E.  quarter 
stands  a  stately  monument  to  the  soldiers  of  Cuyahoga  County,  erected 
in  1892-'93  by  taxation  of  the  county.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the 
statue  of  Commodore  Perry,  removed  to  Gordon  Park.  In  the  N.  W. 
corner  of  the  Park  there  is  a  handsome  fountain ;  and  in  the  S.  W.  a 
pool  and  cascade,  and  a  bronze  statue  of  Moses  Cleaveland,  the  founder 
of  the  city.  W.  of  the  river  is  another  park,  called  the  Circle,  which 
has  a  fountain  in  the  center,  and  is  finely  adorned  with  shade-trees. 
The  United  States  building,  fronting  on  the  Park,  containing  the  Cios- 
tom-House,  Post-Office,  and  Federal  courts,  is  a  fine  stone  structure,  as 
are  also  the  two  County  Court-Houses,  the  one  on  Seneca  St.,  the  other 
at  the  cor.  of  the  Park.  The  City  Hall,  on  Superior  St.,  E.  of  Monu- 
mental Park,  is  a  magnificent  six-story  building — 200x100  ft. —  with 
stores  underneath.  *  Case  Hall,  a  beautiful  edifice  near  the  Park, 
contains,  besides  the  rooms  of  the  Case  Library,  w^hich  has  a  collection 


300  »  NEW   YORK   TO   CHICAGO.  [Route  67. 

of  30,000  volumes  and  a  reading-i-oom,  a  fine  hall  capable  of  seating 
1,240  persons,  and  used  for  lectures,  concerts,  etc.  The  principal  places 
for  dramatic  entertainments  are  the  Euclid  Ave.  Opera-House, 

and  the  Lyceum  Theatre^  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Public  Square ;  besides 
these,  there  are  the  H.  H.  Jacobs  Theatre,  in  St.  Clair  St.,  and  Star 
Theatre,  in  Euclid  Ave. ;  the  Music  Hall,  seating  5,000,  cor.  Supei'ior 
and  Erie  Sts.,  a  Bohemian  theatre,  a  German  theatre,  and  several  public 
halls  for  lectures.  The  Union  Depot,  built  in  1866,  is  a  massive  stone 
structure,  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  On  the  keystone 
over  the  main  entrance  is  a  bas-relief  portrait  of  Amasa  Stone.  There  are 
similar  portraits  of  Presidents  Grant  and  Lincoln,  and  various  symbolical 
designs  upon  keystones  at  either  end  of  the  building.  The  Watej^-  Works 
stand  near  the  lake,  W.  of  the  river.  By  means  of  a  tunnel,  extend- 
ing 6,600  ft.  under  the  lake,  pure  water  is  obtained,  which  is  forced  by 
two  powerful  engines  through  the  city.  Two  reservoirs,  the  Fairmont 
(80,000,000  gallons)  and  the  Woodland  Hills  (40,000,000  gallons),  com- 
plete the  water- works  system. 

Of  the  many  churches  in  the  city,  among  the  more  noteworthy  are 
St.  PauVs  (Episcopal),  cor.  Case  and  Euclid  Aves.,  the  Woodland  Avenue 
(Presbyterian),  with  the  largest  Sunday-school  in  the  city,  the  Old  Stone 
Church  (Presbyterian),  cor.  Ontario  St.  and  the  Park,  the  Second  Pres- 
byterian, cor.  Prospect  St.  and  Perry  St.,  Calvary  Presbyterian  Church, 
cor.  Euclid  and  Madison  Aves.,  the  First  Methodist  Church,  cor.  Erie  St. 
and  Euclid  Ave.,  Plymouth  Congregationcd,  cor.  Prospect  and  Perry  Sts., 
the  Mcclid  Ave.  Baptist,  cor.  Huntington  St.,  and  the  First  Congrega- 
tional, cor.  Franklin  Ave.  and  Taylor  Sts.,  all  of  stone  in  the  Gothic 
style.  The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedrcd  is  a  large  and  handsome  build- 
ing; and  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal)  is  an  imposing  edifice,  also  in 
the  Gothic  style.  The  Fiy-st  and  TJiird  Presbyterian  churches  are  fine 
structures.  Among  the  educational  institutions  is  Western  Reserve  Uni- 
versity, removed  to  Cleveland  on  the  conditional  gift  of  $500,000  from 
the  late  Amasa  Stone,  in  1882.  It  is  located  on  Euclid  Ave.,  4  miles 
west  of  the  Square,  and  has  two  fine  buildings.  Besides  the  Adelbert 
College  it  includes  a  medical  department,  cor.  Erie  and  St.  Clair  Sts., 
and  the  Cleveland  College  for  Women,  The  Case  School  of  Applied 
Scieiice  is  located  on  the  same  ground,  and  has  an  endowment  of 
$1,250,000,  the  gift  of  the  late  Leonard  Case.  The  Mediccd  Depart- 
ment of  the  University  of  Wooster,  in  Brownell  St.,  and  the  Homoeo- 
pathic College  Hospital,  in  Huron  St.,  are  flourishing  institutions.  The 
University  School,  Hough  Ave.  near  Giddings,  is  a  fine  building;  and 
the  two  High-School  buildings  are  handsome  edifices  of  brick  and  stone. 
The  Public  Library,  opened  in  1869,  contains  about  '75,000  vols.  It  is 
free,  and  is  supported  by  an  annual  tax  upon  the  citizens.  The  other 
libraries  are  the  Case  Library,  30,000  vols. ;  the  Cleveland  Law  Library^ 
11,000  vols.;  and  the  Western  Reserve  Historical  Society^  Library, 
22,000  vols.     The  Masonic  Temple  is  in  Superior  St. 

On  the  shore  of  the  lake  stands  the  extensive  building  of  the  U.  S. 
Marine  Hospital.  The  Charity  Hospital,  in  Perry  St.,  was  established 
partly  by  the  city  and  partly  by  private  subscriptions,  and  is  attended  by 


Boute  67.]  NEW   YORK    TO    CHICAGO.  '  301 

the  Sisters  of  Charity.  The  Homoeopathic  Hospital  has  a  large  and 
handsome  building  on  Huron  St.  The  Work-House,  on  the  E.  outskirts 
of  the  city,  is  a  large  and  handsome  structure,  for  the  confinement  and 
utilizing  of  city  offenders.  The  City  Lifirmary,  to  which  the  sick  and 
homeless  poor  are  taken,  has  attached  to  it  a  good  farm,  which  is 
worked  by  the  inmates  of  the  institution. 

Cleveland  has  several  beautiful  cemeteries.  City  Cemetery,  in  Erie 
St.,  is  laid  out  with  rectangular  walks  shaded  with  trees,  and  contains 
many  fine  monuments.  Woodland  Cemetery  is  in  the  E.  part  of  the 
city.  It  is  prettily  laid  out  with  paths  winding  amid  noble  trees  and 
abundant  shrubbery,  and  is  rich  in  monuments  and  statuary.  Lake 
View  Cemetery,  containing  300  acres,  on  which  $500,000  has  been 
expended,  is  in  Euclid  Ave.,  about  5  miles  from  the  center  of  the  city. 
It  is  250  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  commands  extensive  views,  and 
has  been  greatly  beautified  and  adorned.  Here  President  James  A.  Gar- 
field is  buried.  Two  and  a  half  acres  on  the  highest  point  of  the  ceme- 
tery are  reserved  for  the  beautiful  monument,  beneath  which  his  remains 
are  placed.  Three  lines  of  electric  railroad  run  from  the  Square  to  the 
cemetery  to  accommodate  visitors  to  his  grave.  Riverside  Cemetery,  on 
the  S.  side,  has  a  picturesque  location.  There  are  also  well-cared-for 
cemeteries  belonging  to  the  Catholics  and  Jews. 

Wade  Park,  opposite  Adelbert  College,  consists  of  83  acres,  on  which 
$500,000  have  been  expended,  and  eventual!}'  it  will  be  one  of  the  finest 
parks  in  the  West.  Gordon  Park,  of  about  120  acres,  on  the  lake- 
shore,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  and  on  which  W.  J.  Gordon  had 
expended  large  amounts  of  money,  was  bequeathed  by  him  to  the  city 
in  1892.  Other  public  parks  are  Lake  View  Park,  on  the  lake-shore, 
and  Pelton  Park,  on  the  S.  side. 


Leaving  Cleveland,  the  train  passes  the  village  of  Berea  and  the  town 
of  Elyria,  and  in  34  miles  reaches  Oherlin  (653  miles  from  New  York), 
noted  as  the  seat  of  Oberlin  College,  from  which  no  person  is  excluded  on 
account  of  sex  or  color.  This  college,  founded  in  1834,  combines  manual 
labor  with  study,  inculcates  entire  social  equality  between  whites  and 
blacks,  and  has  had  a  prosperous  career.  The  next  important  station  is 
Toledo  (Boody  House,  Burnett  House,  Hotel  Madison,  Jefferson  House, 
Merchants''  Hotel,  and  Oliver  House),  which  within  a  few  years  has  de- 
veloped from  an  inconsiderable  village  into  a  large  and  rapidly-grow- 
ing city.  In  1850  the  population  was  3,820;  in  1870  it  was  31,693, 
and  in  1890  had  reached  -81,434.  It  is  situated  on  the  Maumee  River, 
5  miles  from  a  broad  and  beautiful  bay,  and  8  miles  from  Lake  Erie, 
of  which  it  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  ports.  Its  commerce  is  very  large, 
consisting  chiefly  of  the  handhng  of  grain ;  and  its  manufactures  include 
car-factories,  iron-works,  locomotive-shops,  furniture-factories,  flour-mills, 
and  breweries.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  having  wide  streets,  that 
give  an  easy  ascent  from  the  harbor  to  the  table-land  on  which  most 
of  the  houses  are  built,  and  natural  gas  from  the  largest  gas-well  yet 
bored  is  being  introduced.     It  has  large  and  handsome  public  buildings, 


302  NEW   YORK   TO   CHICAGO.  [Route  68. 

several  neat  parks,  street  railroads,  and  costly  water-works.  Toledo 
communicates  with  Cincinnati  by  the  Miami  &  Erie  Canal,  and  is  the 
converging-point  of  17  railroad  lines.  Six  of  these  lines  concentrate  at 
the  Union  Depot.  The  Public  Library  contains  16,000  volumes,  and 
there  are  several  handsome  churches.  The  principal  charitable  institu- 
tions are  the  City  Hospital,  St.  Vincent's  Hospital,  House  of  Refuge  and 
Correction,  Home  for  Friendless  Women,  and  3  orphan  asylums.  Among 
the  public  buildings  are  the  Fost-  Office  and  Produce  Exchange.  The 
first  lunatic  asylum  on  the  cottage  system  erected  in  Ohio  has  34  build- 
ings in  Toledo. 

At  Toledo  the  road  branches,  one  branch  running  through  Indiana, 
and  known  as  the  Air-Line  Division,  and  the  other  running  through 
southern  Michigan,  and  known  as  the  Michigan  Division.  Through 
trains  run  by  way  of  both  lines,  and  the  same  rich  agricultural  coun- 
try, numerously  sprinkled  with  small  towns,  is  traversed  by  both. 
Adrian  (769  miles)  is  the  largest  city  in  southern  Michigan,  with  a 
population,  in  1890,  of  8,756.  It  is  well  built,  and  has  prosperous  manu- 
factures. There  is  a  fine  Soldiers'  Monument  to  the  77  citizens  of  Adrian 
who  fell  in  the  civil  war,  and  the  Central  Union  School-building  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  West.  At  Elkhart  (869  milesjthe  two  divisions  of  the 
road  unite  again ;  and  the  route  from  there  to  Chicago  is  through  a  level 
praiiie-country,  which  has  been  well  described  as  having  "  a  face  but  no 
features."  South  Bend  (894  miles)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  city  of 
21,819  inhabitants,  one  of  the  chief  places  in  northern  Indiana,  situated 
in  a  great  bend  of  the  St.  Joseph  River,  which  is  navigable  to  this  point 
and  affords  a  good  water-power.  The  Court-House  here  is  one  of  the 
finest  buildings  in  the  State,  and  the  University  of  Notre  Dame  is  a  Ro- 
man Catholic  institution  of  some  note.  lia  Porte  (921  miles)  is  a  city 
of  7,126  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  prairie  of  the  same  name, 
and  surrounded  by  a  very  rich  agricultural  country.  A  chain  of  several 
beautiful  lakes  runs  N.  of  the  city,  which,  from  their  facilities  for  boating 
and  bathing,  are  a  favorite  summer  resort.     Chicago  (see  Route  71). 

68.  New  York  to  Chicago  via  Erie  Lines. 

By  tlie  Erie  Lines.  Throiigh  trains,  with  complete  palace  and  sleeping  car 
service,  run  without  change  of  cars  from  New  York  to  Chicago  in  ahoiit  28  hours. 
Distances  :  to  Paterson,  17  miles  ;  to  Turner's,  48 ;  to  Port  Jervis,  88 ;  to  Sus- 
quehanna, 193  ;  to  Binghamton,  215  ;  to  Elmira,  274  :  to  Hornellsville,  381  (to 
Buffalo,  423  ;  to  Dunkirk,  460)  ;  to  Salamanca,  413  ;  to  Corry,  474  ;  to  Meadville, 
515  (to  Cleveland,  626)  ;  to  Akron,  615  ;  to  Mansfield,  682  ;  to  Chicago,  986. 

The  Erie  R.  R.  also  sells  through  tickets  to  Chicago  via  the  Lake  Shore  & 
Michigan  Southern  E.  R.  (with  which  it  connects  at  Buffalo  and  Dunkirk),  via 
the  Canada  division  of  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  (with  which  it  connects  at 
Buffalo),  and  via  the  Southern  Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  RaDway  (with 
which  it  connects  at  Suspension  Bridge).  All  these  roads  are  described  in 
Routes  66  and  67. 

The  Erie  Railway,  which  now  runs  solid  trains  over  its  own  tracks 
from  New  York  to  Chicago,  is  one  of  the  greatest  achievements  of  en- 
gineering skill  in  this  or  any  other  country,  and  aifords  some  of  the 
grandest  and  most  varied  scenery  to  be  found  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 


Route  68.]  NEW  YOEK   TO   CHICAGO.  303 

ains.  Portions  of  the  line  were  considered  impassable  to  any  other  than 
a  winged  creature,  yet  mountains  were  scaled  or  pierced,  and  river-canons 
passed,  by  blasting  a  path  from  the  face  of  stupendous  precipices;  goi'ges 
of  fearful  depth  were  spanned  by  bridges  swung  into  the  air ;  and  broad, 
deep  valleys  crossed  by  massive  viaducts.  When  first  completed  in 
1851,  the  road,  except  at  a  few  points,  lay  through  an  almost  unknow^n 
country — a  country  which  was  looked  upon  then  pretty  much  as  the 
Adirondack  wilderness  is  now,  but  numerous  towns  and  villages  have 
since  grown  up  along  the  line.  The  great  charm  of  the  Erie  Eoute  lies 
in  its  romantic  and  picturesque  scenery. ^ 

For  the  first  31  miles  the  road  traverses  the  State  of  New  Jersey, 
passing  through  the  great  manufacturing  city  of  Paterson  (17  miles), 
famed  for  the  beautiful  Falls  of  the  Passaic.  Just  this  side  of  Suffertvi 
Station^  it  crosses  the  line  and  enters  the  State  of  New  York,  commenc- 
ing the  ascent  of  the  famous  Ramapo  Valley,  which  is  followed  for  18 
miles.  At  Sloatshurg  (36  miles)  the  road  passes  near  Greenwood  Lake, 
a  noted  summer  resort,  around  which  are  a  number  of  pretty  little  lakes. 
Tiirner^s  (48  miles)  is  the  most  picturesque  station  on  this  portion  of 
the  line.  The  view  from  the  hill  N.  of  the  station  is  superb,  the  Hud- 
son River,  with  Fishkill  and  Newburg,  being  in  sight.  On  approach- 
ing Otisville  (76  miles),  the  eye  is  attracted  by  the  bold  flanks  of  the 
Shawangunk  Mountain,  the  passage  of  which  great  barrier  (once  deemed 
insurmountable)  is  a  great  feat  of  engineering  skill.  A  mile  beyond 
Otisville,  after  traversing  an  ascending  grade  of  40  ft.  to  the  mile,  the 
road  runs  through  a  rock-cutting  50  ft.  deep  and  2,500  ft.  long.  This 
passed,  the  summit  of  the  ascent  is  reached,  and  thence  we  go  down  the 
mountain's  side  many  sloping  miles  to  the  valley  beneath,  through  the 
midst  of  grand  and  picturesque  scenery.  Onward  the  way  increases  in 
interest,  imtil  it  opens  in  a  glimpse,  away  over  the  valley,  of  the  mount- 
ain-spur known  as  the  Ciiddehack  ;  and  at  its  base  the  glittei'ing  water 
is  seen,  now  for  the  first  time,  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal.  Eight 
miles  beyond  Otisville  we  are  imprisoned  in  a  deep  cut  for  nearly  a 
mile,  and,  on  emerging  from  it,  there  lie  spread  before  us  (on  the  right) 
the  rich  and  lovely  valley  and  waters  of  the  Neversink.  Beyond  sweeps 
a  chain  of  blue  hills,  and  at  their  feet,  terraced  high,  gleam  the  roofs 
and  spires  of  the  town  of  Po7't  Jervis  (88  miles) ;  while  to  the  S.  the 
eye  rests  upon  the  waters  of  the  Delaware,  along  the  banks  of  which 
the  line  runs  for  the  next  90  miles.  Three  miles  beyond  Port  Jervis 
the  train  crosses  the  Delaware  into  the  State  of  Pennsylvania,  which  it 
traverses  for  26  miles  to  Delaware  Bridge,  where  it  again  enters  New  York. 
Near  Shohola  (107  miles)  some  of  the  greatest  obstacles  of  the  entire 
route  were  encountered,  and  for  several  miles  the  roadway  was  hewed 
out  of  the  solid  clifP-side  at  a  cost  of  $100,000  a  mile.  Lackawaxen 
(111   miles)  is  a  pretty  village  at  the  confluence  of  the  Lackawaxen 

1  Our  description  of  this  route  as  far  as  Salamanca  is  a  mere  outline  or  sum- 
mary, designed  to  furnish  such  ciu'sory  information  about  the  places  and 
scenery  en  route  as  may  meet  the  wants  of  through  passengers  to  the  West. 
Those  who  desire  a  more  detailed  description  will  find  it  in  the  set  tion  of  the 
work  devoted  to  the  New  England  and  Middle  States  (Route  41). 


304  NEW   YORK   TO   CHICAGO.  [Route  68. 

Creek  and  Delaware  River.  Here  the  Delaware  is  spanned  by  an  iron 
suspension  bridge  supporting  the  aqueduct  by  which  the  D.  &  H.  Ca- 
nal crosses  the  river.  The  country  around  Narrowshurg  (123  miles) 
was  the  theatre  of  the  stirring  incidents  of  Cooper's  novel,  "  The  Last 
of  the  Mohicans."  Beyond  Narrowsburg  for  some  miles  the  scenery  is 
uninteresting  and  the  stations  unimportant. 

At  Deposit  (1*77  miles)  the  valley  of  the  Delaware  is  left,  and  we 
begin  the  ascent  of  the  high  mountain-ridge  which  separates  it  from  the 
lovely  valley  of  the  Susquehanna.  As  the  train  descends  into  the  lat- 
ter valley,  there  opens  suddenly  on  the  right  a  picture  of  bewitching 
beauty.  This  first  glimpse  of  the  Susquelianna  is  esteemed  one  of  the 
finest  points  of  the  varied  scenery  of  the  Erie  Route,  A  short  distance 
below  we  cross  the  great  Starucca  Viachccf,  1,200  ft.  long  and  110  ft. 
high,  constructed  at  a  cost  of  $320,000.  From  the  vicinity  of  Susque- 
hanna, the  next  station  (193  miles),  the  viaduct  itself  makes  a  most 
effective  feature  of  the  valley  views.  For  a  few  miles  beyond  Susque- 
hanna the  route  still  lies  amid  mountain-ridges ;  but  these  are  soon  left 
behind,  and  we  enter  upon  a  beautiful  hilly  and  rolling  country,  thickly 
dotted  with  villages  and  towns.  Binghamton  (215  miles)  is  a  flour- 
ishing city  of  35,005  inhabitants,  a  railroad  center,  and  the  site  of 
the  Asylum  for  Chronic  Insane.  Twenty-two  miles  farther  is  Owego, 
a  large  and  prosperous  manufacturing  town ;  and  then  comes  Elmira 
(274  miles),  the  most  important  city  on  the  road,  with  a  population 
of  29,708.  At  Horiiellsville  (332  miles;  10,996  population)  we  reach 
the  last  and  least  interesting  division  of  the  road,  and  soon  after 
descend  to  the  Lake  Erie  level,  passing  through  a  wild  and  deso- 
late region,  with  few  marks  of  human  habitation.  At  Salamanca 
(413  miles)  the  train  takes  the  track  of  the  old  New  York,  Pennsylvania 
&  Ohio  R.  R.,  now  part  of  the  Erie  System. 

Passengers  holding  througli  tickets  via  Buffalo  take  the  Buffalo  Div.  of  the 
Erie  R.  R.  at  Hornellsville,  and  pass  in  92  miles  to  Buffalo.  The  scenery  at 
Portage  on  this  division  is  considered  by  many  the  finest  on  the  entire  road  ; 
but  the  traveler  must  leave  the  cars  and  visit  the"^Falls  in  order  to  enjoy  it.  The 
famous  *  Portage  Bridge,  by  which  the  train  crosses  the  Genesee  River,  is 
worthy  of  attention.  At  Buffalo  the  passenger  for  Chicago  takes  either  of  the 
routes  mentioned  at  the  head  of  this  route.  Passengers  holding  tickets  via 
Dunkirk  continue  on  the  Erie  main  line  from  Salamanca,  traversing  an  uninter- 
esting region.  At  Dunkirk,  connection  is  made  Avith  the  Lake  Shore  and  Michi- 
gan Southern  R.  R.  (see  Route  66). 

From  Salamanca  the  New  York,  Pennsylvania  &  Ohio  Division 
runs  along  the  forest-clad  valley  of  the  Alleghany  River,  enters  the 
Conewango  Valley,  and  in  34  miles  reaches  Jamestown,  a  city  of 
about  16,038  population  {Everett,  Humphrey,  and  Sherman),  a  popu- 
lar summer  resort  on  the  Chautauqua  Outlet.  Here  an  Opera-House 
has  been  recently  built.  Chautauqua  Lake  is  the  farthest  W.  of 
all  the  New  York  lakes,  being  bounded  on  two  sides  by  Pennsylvania. 
It  is  18  miles  long  and  1  to  3  wide,  and  is  the  highest  navigable  water 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  being  730  ft.  above  Lake  Erie  and  1,291 
ft,  above  the  sea.  A  steamer  runs  twice  a  day  from  Jamestown  in 
22  miles  to  Mayville  {Chautanqna  House,  Mayville  House),  another 


Route  68.]  NEW   YOEK   TO   CHICAGO.  S05 

popular  summer  resort  at  the  N.  end  of  the  lake.  Chautauqua 
{Athenceum  Hotel)^  the  seat  of  the  Chautauqua  Assembly,  which  holds 
its  sessions  during  Jul}-  and  August  on  the  shores  of  Chautauqua  Lake, 
is  a  handsomely-built  summer  city,  with  a  number  of  public  buildings, 
and  more  than  500  tastefully-designed  cottages.  The  lake  and  the 
country  in  the  vicinity  afford  many  delightful  excursions.  As  a  resort, 
Chautauqua  holds  a  high  place.  But  Chautauqua  has  a  broader  field 
than  this :  it  utilizes  the  summer  months  in  the  interest  of  higher 
forms  of  enjoyment,  and,  in  furtherance  of  this  plan,  the  best  lecturers, 
musicians,  and  entertainers  of  the  country  are  engaged.  Besides,  there 
are  the  most  complete  schools  in  the  world — summer  schools,  schools 
of  language,  literatui-e,  art,  science;  schools  of  methods  for  teachers; 
instruction  in  practical  matters,  such  as  short-hand,  type -writing,  pen- 
manship, book-keeping ;  classes  for  ladies  in  artistic  decorative  work, 
china-painting,  wood-carving,  and  the  like ;  in  short,  opportunities  for 
work  suited  to  the  most  varied  tastes  and  requirements.  Chautauqua 
is  conducted  on  a  broad,  liberal,  undenominational  basis,  and  is  founded 
on  the  idea  that  recreation  means,  not  idleness,  but  a  change  of  occu- 
pation; and  the  soundness  of  this  principle  is  proved  by  the  fact  that 
thousands  yearly  visit  the  great  assembly.  Point  Chautauqua 
{Grand  Hotel).,  headquarters  of  the  Baptist  Association,  are  also  reached 
by  steamers  from  Jamestown.  The  lake  is  surrounded  by  hills  500  to 
600  ft.  high,  and  affords  some  attractive  scenery.  Passing  S.  W.  from 
Jamestown,  the  train  soon  crosses  the  line  and  enters  Pennsylvania. 
Corry  (474  miles)  is  a  city  of  SjOW  inhabitants,  which  has  sprung  up 
since  1861  as  the  product  of  the  oil  business.  It  lies  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Pennsylvania  Oil  Regions  (see  Route  57),  and  is  at  the  intersection 
of  several  important  railways  which  have  given  it  its  prosperity.  Be- 
yond Corry  the  road  descends  the  valley  of  French  Creek,  along  the 
banks  of  which  are  several  of  the  principal  wells  in  the  Oil  Region. 
Venango  (505  miles)  is  in  this  valley.  Ten  miles  beyond  Venango  is 
Meadville  {Budd  House.,  Commercial  Hotel).,  a  city  of  9,520  inhabit- 
ants, with  important  manufactures  and  an  extensive  trade  with  the  Oil 
Regions.  It  lies  on  the  E.  bank  of  French  Creek,  and  is  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  W.  of  the  Alleghanies.  The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  com- 
pactly built,  and  there  are  a  handsome  Court-House,  a  State  Arsenal,  an 
Opera-House,  and  a  Public  Library  with  3,000  volumes.  Allegheny  Col- 
lege (Methodist)  occupies  3  buildings  on  a  hill  ■iS'.  of  the  city.  It  was 
founded  in  ISlY,  and  has  libraries  with  12,000  volumes.  The  Mead- 
ville Theological  School  (LTnitarian)  w^as  established  in  1844,  and  has 
a  library  of  12,000  volumes.  Greendale  Cemetery.,  in  the  suburbs,  is 
well  laid  out,  and  tastefully  adorned. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Meadville  the  road  leaves  the  French 
Creek,  and,  passing  several  small  stations,  enters  the  State  of  Ohio  near 
Orangeville  (554  miles),  which  is  the  first  station  in  Ohio.  From 
Leavittshurg  (578  miles)  the  Mahoning  Division  diverges,  and  runs  in  49 
miles  to  Cleveland  (see  Route  6Y).  Ravenna  (598  miles)  is  a  flourishing 
manufacturing  town  on  the  Pennsylvania  &  Ohio  Canal,  which  affords 
a  good  water-power.  It  is  also  the  point  of  shipment  for  large  quan- 
go 


306  NEW   YORK   TO   CHICAGO.  [Route  69. 

titles  of  cheese,  butter,  grain,  and  wool.  Seventeen  miles  beyond  Ra- 
venna is  Akron  (Empire  Hotels  Hotel  Buchtel)^  a  city  of  27,601  inhab- 
itants, at  the  intersection  of  the  Pennsylvania  &  Ohio  and  Ohio  &  Erie 
Canals.  The  canals  and  the  Little  Cuyahoga  River  furnish  ample  water- 
power  for  numerous  mills,  factories,  etc.  The  chief  articles  of  manu- 
facture are  flour  and  woolen  goods.  The  city  is  400  ft.  above  Lake  Erie, 
being  the  highest  ground  on  the  line  of  the  canal  between  the  lake 
and  the  Ohio  River.  In  the  vicinity  are  immense  beds  of  mineral 
paint,  which  is  exported  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  Beyond  Akron  the 
road  traverses  a  rich  agricultural  country,  passing  6  or  8  small  towns, 
and  soon  reaches  Mansfield  {The  Von  Hoj\  and  Tremont  Hoiise)^  a 
city  of  13,4*73  inhabitants,  compactly  built  on  a  beautiful  and  command- 
ing eleyation  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  and  populous  region.  It  has  a 
number  of  handsome  public  buildings,  including  several  of  the  churches 
and  school-houses,  and  the  Court-House.  Many  of  the  residences  are 
costly,  and  surrounded  by  spacious  ornamental  grounds.  The  principal 
manufactures  are  of  threshing-machines,  machinery,  woolens,  paper, 
furniture,  and  flour. 

From  Marion,  one  of  the  most  flourishing  towns  in  Ohio,  the  Chi- 
cago &  Erie  R.  R.  extends  to  Chicago,  completing  the  Erie  system 
between  the  East  and  West.  The  Chicago  &  Erie  was  built  expressly 
for  the  Erie's  Chicago  connection  and  is  almost  an  air-line,  there  being 
sections  of  60  to  70  miles  without  a  perceptible  curve  or  grade. 

69.  New  York  to  Chicago  via  Philadelphia  and 
Pittsburgh. 

By  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  and  the  Pennsylvania  Lines.  The  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.,  formerly  a  merely  local  line  between  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburgh,  is 
now  a  vast  corporation,  including  upward  of  2,400  miles  of  track  under  a  single 
management.  It  is  one  of  the  great  highways  of  traffic  and  travel  between  the 
Atlantic  coast  and  the  Western  States,  and  through  trains,  with  complete  palace 
and  sleeping  car  service  attached,  run  through,  without  change  of  cars,  from 
New  York  via  Philadelphia  to  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  and  Louisville. 
The  ordinary  time  from  New  York  to  Chicago  is  34  to  36  hours.  The  Chicago 
Limited  Express  is  a  special  feature  of  this  route.  It  consists  entirely  of  vesti- 
bule cars,  leaves  New  York  at  10  a.  m.,  and  runs  through  in  24  hours,  making 
but  eight  regular  stops  on  the  way.  The  price  of  tickets  is  somewhat  higher 
than  by  the  regular  trains.  Distances  :  to  Newark,  9  miles  ;  to  New  Brunswick, 
31  ;  to  Trenton,  57  ;  to  Philadelphia,  90  ;  to  Lancaster,  1.58  ;  to  Harrisburg,  195  ; 
to  Altoona,  327 ;  to  Cresson,  342  ;  to  Johnstown,  365  ;  to  Pittsburgh,  444 ;  to 
Mansfield,  620  ;  to  Fort  Wayne,  764  ;  to  Chicago,  913. 

The  station  in  Jersey  City  is  reached  by  ferries  from  the  foot  of 
Desbrosses  and  Cortlandt  Sts.  The  route  across  New  Jersey  is  through 
a  flat  and  featureless  country,  which  would  be  monotonous  but  for  the 
numerous  cities  and  towns  along  the  line.^  Newark  (9  miles),  contained 
181,831  inhabitants  in  1890,  and  is  the  largest  city  and  chief  manufact- 
uring center  of  New  Jersey,  but  offers  few  attractions  to  the  tourist.  The 
Passaic  Flour-Mills  and  the  works  of  the  Celluloid  Co.  are  large  concerns. 

1  Those  who  desire  a  more  detailed  description  will  find  it  in  the  section  of 
this  work  devoted  to  the  New  England  and  the  Middle  States  (see  Routes  3 
and  49). 


Route  69.1  ^^^    YOEK    TO    CHICAGO.  307 

There  are  large  manufactories  of  India-rubber  goods,  boots  and  shoes, 
carriages,  paper,  varnish,  and  jewehy.  Broad  St.  is  the  principal  thor- 
oughfare, and  the  V.  S.  Custom-House  and  Post-Office.,  the  City-Hcdl., 
the  Court-House.,  the  Newark  Academy.,  and  several  of  the  churches,  are 
fine  buildings.  Elizabeth  (15  miles)  is  one  of  the  handsomest  cities 
in  New  Jersey,  and  contains  many  fine  residences  of  New  York  business 
men,  a  few  of  which  are  visible  from  the  cars.  New  Brunsivick  (31 
miles)  is  a  city  of  18,603  inhabitants,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Raritan  River,  and  is  noted  for  possessing  one  of  the  most  extensive 
India-rubber  factories  in  the  United  States,  and  as  the  site  of  Rutgers 
College^  an  ancient  and  flourishing  institution.  Princeton  (48  miles) 
is  chiefly  known  as  the  seat  of  Princeton  College,  one  of  the  most 
famous  institutions  of  learning  in  America,  founded  in  1746.  Several  of 
the  college  buildings,  of  which  there  are  fifteen,  are  handsome  struct- 
ures, standing  amid  ample,  well-shaded  grounds.  Trenton  (57  miles  ; 
57,458  population),  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Delaware  River,  and  contains  some  fine  public 
buildings.  The  State-House  is  a  picturesque  old  building,  occupying  a 
commanding  site  near  the  river.  The  U.  S.  Post- Office.,  the  Stcde  Luna- 
tic Asylum.,  the  State  Penitentiary.,  and  the  State  Ai'senal,  are  among 
the  other  edifices  worthy  of  notice.  The  battle  which  was  fought  here 
Jan.  3, 1777,  was  a  turning-point  in  the  Revolution.  On  leaving  Trenton, 
the  train  crosses  the  Delaware  on  a  bridge  1,100  ft.  long,  and  follows 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  to  Prankford,  where  it  turns  W.  and  swings 
round  the  N.  portion  of  the  great  city  of  Philadelphia,  the  third 
in  population  in  the  United  States,  to  the  Broad  St.  station,  cor. 
Broad  and  Market  Sts.  The  city  of  Philadelphia  is  fully  described  in 
Route  4. 

Leaving  the  station,  the  train  passes  in  sight  of  Fairmount  Park, 
traverses  a  pleasant  suburban  region,  and  enters  one  of  the  richest  agri- 
cultural districts  in  America,  which  is  traversed  for  nearly  100  miles. 
The  size  and  solidity  of  the  houses  and  barns,  and  the  perfection  of  the 
cultivation,  will  be  apt  to  remind  the  tourist  rather  of  the  best  farming 
districts  of  England  than  of  what  he  usually  sees  in  the  United  States. 
Paoli  (109  miles)  was  the  scene  of  a  battle  fought  Sept.  20,  1777,  in 
which  the  British  under  General  Gray  surprised  and  defeated  the  Ameri- 
cans under  Gen.  Wayne.  The  battle  is  commonly  called  the  "  Paoli 
Massacre,"  because  a  large  number  of  the  Americans  were  killed  after 
they  had  laid  down  their  arms.  A  marble  monument,  erected  in  1817, 
marks  the  site  of  the  battle-field.  Beyond  Paoli  the  scenery  grows  more 
picturesque,  and  fine  views  are  had  of  the  beautiful  Chester  A^alley. 
Downington  (122  miles)  is  the  terminus  of  the  Chester  Valley  R.  R. 
(branch  Philadelphia  &  Reading  R.  R.),  and  is  near  the  marble  quarries 
which  supplied  the  marble  from  which  Girard  College  in  Philadelphia 
was  built.  At  Coatesville  (128  miles)  the  W.  branch  of  the  Brandywine 
is  crossed  on  a  bridge  850  ft.  long  and  75  ft.  high.  Gap  (141  miles)  is 
so  named  because  it  lies  in  the  gap  by  which  the  road  passes  from  the 
Chester  Yalley  to  the  Paquea  Yalley.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is 
attractive.     Lancaster  (158  miles)  is   pleasantly  situated  near  the 


308  NEW   YORK   TO   CHICAGO.  [Route  W. 

Conestoga  Creek,  which  is  crossed  in  entering  the  city.  It  was  incor- 
porated in  1818,  and  was  at  one  time  the  principal  inland  town  of  Penn- 
sylvania, being  the  seat  of  the  State  government  from  1*799  to  1812.  It 
is  now  a  prosperous  manufacturing  city  of  32,011  inhabitants,  containing 
many  fine  pubhc  buildings,  among  which  are  the  Court-House,  the 
County  Prison,  Fulton  Hall,  and  Franklin  and  Marshall  College  (Dutch 
Keformed).  Lancaster  has  extensive  manufactures  of  locomotives,  axes, 
carriages,  etc.,  and  has  navigable  communication  by  canal  and  river  with 
Baltimore.  The  only  station  between  Lancaster  and  Harrisburg  which 
requires  mention  is  Middletovm  (186  miles),  an  important  shipping-point 
on  the  Susquehanna  River  at  the  mouth  of  Swatara  Creek.  It  has  ex- 
tensive iron-works  and  machine-shops,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Union 
Canal.  Nine  miles  beyond  is  Harrisburg  (195  miles;  39,385  popula- 
tion), the  capital  of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania,  situated  on  the  E.  bank 
of  the  Susquehanna  River,  which  is  here  a  mile  wide  and  spanned  by  two 
bridges.  The  city  is  handsomely  built,  and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful 
scenery.  The  State-House,  finely  situated  on  an  eminence  near  the 
center,  is  a  spacious  brick  building  in  the  classic  style,  and  is  plainly 
visible  from  the  cars.  The  other  important  public  buildings  are  the 
State  Arsenal,  the  Court-House,  the  State  Lunatic  Asylnrn,  the  County 
Prison,  the  market-houses,  the  school-houses,  and  several  handsome 
churches.  The  iron-manufactures  of  Harrisburg  are  extensive,  and  six 
important  railways  converge  hei'e. 

About  5  miles  above  Harrisburg  the  railroad  crosses  the  Susque- 
hanna on  a  splendid  bridge,  3,6*70  ft.  long;  the  *view  from  the  center 
of  this  bridge  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  line.  Near  Cove  Station  (10 
miles  from  Harrisburg)  the  Cove  Mt.  and  Peter's  Mt.  are  seen ;  and  from 
this  point  to  within  a  short  distance  of  Pittsburgh  the  scenery  is  superb, 
and  in  places  grand  beyond  description.  Duncannon  (210  miles)  is  at 
the  entrance  of  the  beautiful  Juniata  Valley,  which  is  followed  for  about 
100  miles  to  the  base  of  the  Alleghany  Mts.  The  landscape  of  the 
Juniata  is  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque ;  the  mountain  background, 
as  continuously  seen  across  the  river  from  the  cars,  being  often  strikingly 
bold  and  majestic.  The  passage  of  the  river  through  the  Great  Tusca- 
rora  Mt.,  1  mile  W.  of  3fillerstoiv?i  (228  miles),  is  especially  fine.  Four 
miles  beyond  Mifflhi  (244  miles)  the  train  enters  the  wild  and  romantic 
gorge  known  as  the  *  Long  Narrows,  which  is  traversed  by  the  rail- 
way, highway,  river,  and  canal.  Ilount  Union  (281  miles)  is  at  the 
entrance  of  the  gap  of  Jack's  Mountain ;  and  3  miles  beyond  is  the 
famous  Sidling  Hill,  and,  still  further  W.,  the  Broad  Top  Mountain. 
Huntingdon  (293  miles)  is  a  flourishing  village  on  the  Juniata,  finely 
situated,  and  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery. 

At  Petersburg  (300  miles)  the  railroad  parts  company  with  the  canal 
and  follows  the  Little  Juniata,  which  it  again  leaves  at  Tyrone  (313 
miles)  to  enter  the  Tuckahoe  Valley,  famous  for  its  iron-ore.  At  the 
head  of  the  Tuckahoe  Valley  and  at  the  foot  of  the  Alleghanies  is 
Altooua  (32*7  miles),  a  handsome  city  of  30,33*7  inhabitants,  built  up 
since  1850,  when  it  was  a  primitive  forest,  by  being  selected  as  the 
site  of  the  vast  machine-shops  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.     The  trains 


Boufe  69,]  XEW   YOEK   TO   CHICAGO.  309 

stop  here  for  meals,  and  many  travelers  arriving  in  the  evening  re- 
main over  night  in  order  to  cross  the  Alleghanies  by  daylight.  Just 
beyond  Altoona  the  ascent  of  the  Alleghanies  begins,  and  in  the  course 
of  the  next  11  miles  some  of  the  finest  scenery  and  the  greatest  feats  of 
engineering  on  the  entire  line  are  to  be  seen.  Within  this  distance  the 
road  mounts  to  the  tunnel  at  the  summit  by  so  steep  a  grade  that,  while 
in  the  ascent  double  power  is  required  to  move  the  train,  the  entire 
1 1  miles  of  descent  are  run  without  steam,  the  speed  of  the  train  being 
regulated  by  the  "  brakes."  At  one  point  thei'e  is  a  curve  as  short  as 
the  letter  U,  and  that,  too,  where  the  grade  is  so  steep  that  in  looking 
across  from  side  to  side  it  seems  that,  were  the  tracks  laid  contiguous 
to  each  other,  they  would  form  a  letter  X.  The  road  hugs  the  sides  of 
the  mountains,  and  from  the  windows  next  to  the  valley  the  traveler 
can  look  down  on  houses  and  trees  dwarfed  to  toys,  while  men  and 
animals  appear  like  ants  from  the  great  elevation.  Going  W.,  the  left- 
hand,  and  coming  E.,  the  right-hand,  side  of  the  cars  is  most  favorable 
for  enjoying  the  scenery.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  is  pierced  by  a 
tunnel  3,670  ft.  long,  through  which  the  train  passes  before  com- 
mencing to  descend  the  W.  slope.  The  much-visited  Cresson 
Springs  {Mountain  House)  are  2^  miles  beyond  the  tunnel,  3,000 
ft.  above  the  sea.  There  are  7  mineral  springs  here,  and  the  hotels 
and  cottages  are  apt  to  be  thronged  in  summer.  In  descending 
the  mountains  from  Cresson,  the  remains  of  another  railroad  are  con- 
stantly seen,  sometimes  above  and  sometimes  below  the  track  fol- 
lowed by  the  trains.  This  was  the  old  Portage  R.  R.,  by  which,  in 
the  ante-locomotive  days,  loaded  canal- boats  were  carried  over  the  mount- 
ains in  sections  by  inclined  planes  and  joined  together  at  the  foot. 
The  stream,  which  is  almost  continuously  in  sight  during  the  descent, 
is  the  Conemaugh  Creek,  which  is  crossed  by  a  stone  viaduct  near  Cone- 
maugh  Station  (363  miles),  the  terminus  of  the  mountain  division  of  the 
road. 

From  the  foot  of  the  mountains  to  Pittsburgh  the  road  traverses  a 
rich  farming  region,  the  scenery  of  which,  though  pleasing,  will  be  apt 
to  seem  somewhat  tame  after  the  magnificent  panorama  of  the  Alle- 
ghanies. Johnstown  (365  miles)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  borough  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Conemaugh  with  Stony  Creek.  The  Cambria  Iron- 
Works,  to  the  right  of  the  road,  are  among  the  largest  in  America. 
At  Blairsville  Intersection  (390  miles)  the  road  branches,  the  main  line 
running  to  Pittsburgh  by  Latrohe  (403  miles)  and  Greenshurg  (413  miles) ; 
while  the  Western  Pennsylvania  Div.  runs  to  Allegheny  City  by  Blairs- 
ville (393  miles).  The  former  is  the  route  followed  by  the  through  trains. 
Pittsburgh  (444  miles)  is  the  second  city  of  Pennsylvania  in  population 
and  importance,  and  one  of  the  chief  manufacturing  cities  of  the  United 
States.  It  occupies  the  delta  at  the  confluence  of  the  Alleghany  and 
Moaongahela  Rivers,  with  several  populous  suburbs  on  the  opposite 
banks,  and  in  1890  had  a  total  population  of  238,617.  Allegheny 
City,  with  a  population  of  105,287,  Kes  just  across  the  Alleghany  River, 
and  contains  many  costly  residences  of  Pittsburgh  merchants.  In  both 
cities  are  numerous  places  of  interest,  including  the  great  Westinghouse 


310  BALTIMORE  TO  CHICAGO.  [Route  70. 

electric  plant  and  the  iron-works  of  Carnegie,  Phipps  &  Co.,  in  seeing 
which  several  days  may  be  pleasantly  and  profitably  spent,  and  such 
tourists  as  can  spare  the  requisite  time  should  consult  the  detailed 
description  of  the  two  cities  given  in  Route  50.  The  extent  of  its  steel, 
glass,  and  iron  manufactures  has  given  it  the  appellation  of  the  "  Iron 
City,"  while  the  heavy  pall  of  smoke  that  formerly  overhung  it,  before 
the  introduction  of  natural  gas,  caused  it  to  be  styled  the  "Smoky 
City." 

After  a  short  stop  in  the  Union  Depot  at  Pittsburg,  the  train 
passes  out  on  the  tracks  of  the  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne,  &  Chicago  Div., 
crosses  the  Alleghany  River  in  full  view  of  several  handsome  bridges, 
runs  through  the  heart  of  Allegheny  City,  and  sweeps  past  a  number  of 
small  suburban  villages  to  Rochester  (26  miles  from  Pittsburgh,  470  from 
New  York),  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and  Beaver  Rivers.  From 
Rochester  the  train  runs  N.  up  the  Beaver  River,  passing  the  busy 
manufacturing  towns  of  JVeiv  Brighton  and  Beaver  Falls,  and  at  Home- 
wood  {AI'd  miles)  turns  W.,  and  in  about  15  miles  enters  the  State  of 
Ohio.  Salem  (514  miles)  is  the  first  important  station  in  Ohio,  and  is  a 
neat  manufacturing  town,  surrounded  by  a  highly-cultivated  farming 
country.  At  Alliance  (528  miles)  the  through  cars  for  Cleveland  take 
the  track  of  the  Cleveland  &  Pittsburg  R.  R.,  and  run  in  3^  hours  to 
Cleveland  (see  Route  67).  The  Chicago  train  passes  on  to  Canton 
(546  miles,  Melbourne  Hotel),  a  city  of  26,189  inhabitants,  beautifully 
situated  on  Mmishillen  Creek,  and  surrounded  by  a  fertile  farming 
country,  which  enjoys  the  distinction  of  sending  more  wheat  to  market 
than  any  other  portion  of  the  State.  Bituminous  coal  and  limestone 
are  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  considerable  manufacturing  is  carried 
on.  Massillon  (554  miles.  Hotel  Conrad)  is  a  flourishing  manu- 
facturing city  of  10,092  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Tuscarawas  River 
and  the  Ohio  Canal,  by  which  it  has  water  communication  with  Lake 
Erie.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  is  substantially  and  compactly  built,  and 
contains  many  handsome  residences  and  an  Opera-House  costing  $100,000. 
It  is  surrounded  by  one  of  the  most  productive  coal-fields  of  the  State,  and 
the  coal  obtained  here  has  a  wide  reputation.  The  Massillon  white  sand- 
stone, which  is  largely  quarried,  is  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  country. 
Large  shipments  of  iron-ore,  wool,  flour,  and  grain  are  also  made,  and  the 
manufactures  are  varied  and  important.  Several  small  stations  are  now 
passed,  of  which  the  principal  is  Wooster  (579  miles),  and  then  comes 
Mansfield  (620  miles),  which  has  already  been  described  (see  Route 
68).     From  this  point  to  Chicago  the  route  is  the  same  as  in  Route.  68, 

70.  New  York  to  Chicago  and  Cincinnati,  via  Baltimore 
and  Washington. 

By  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  R.  E.,  which  forms  one  of  the  ^eat  through 
routes  between  the  Athmtic  seaboard  and  the  Western  States.  With  its  various 
branch  lines  it  controls  over  2,000  miles  of  road,  and  has  for  its  western  termini 
the  principal  cities  of  the  interior.  Through  trains,  with  drawing-room  and 
sleeping  car  service  attached,  run  without  change  from  New  York  to  Chicago, 
Columbus,  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis.    The  time"to  Chicago  is  30  hours  ;  to  Cin- 


Route  70.]  BALTBIOEE    TO    CHICAGO.  311 

ciuuati,  about  23  hours  ;  to  St.  Louis,  32  hours.  Distance  from  New  York  to 
Baltimore,  1S6  miles.  Distances  from  Baltimore  :  To  Eelay  Station,  9  miles  ; 
to  Washington,  40  ;  to  Point  of  Rocks,  69  ;  to  Harper's  Ferry,  95  ;  to  Martins- 
burg.  118  ;  to  Cumberland,  192  :  to  Grafton,  294  (to  Parkersburg,  398  ;  to 
Chillicothe,  495  ;  to  Cincinnati,  593  ;  to  Louisville,  721 ;  to  St.  Louis,  934)  ;  to 
Bellaire,  390  (to  Wheeling,  393)  ;  to  Zanesville,  468  :  to  Newark,  494  (to  Co- 
lumbus, 526) ;  to  Mansfield,  .548  ;  to  Chicago  Junction,  .584  ;  to  Chicago,  853. 

The  first  section  of  this  route  is  via  the  Bound  Brook  route  to  Phila- 
delphia (fully  described  in  Part  I,  Route  3  h).  From  Philadelphia  to 
Baltimore  the  route  is  by  way  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  whose 
route  was  completed  in  1886.  The  terminal  station  in  Baltimore  is  in 
Camden  St.,  near  Howard,  but  the  through  trains  to  the  West  are  trans- 
ferred by  ferry-boat  across  the  river  at  Camden,  thus  avoiding  the  circuit 
through  the  city. 

The  grandeur  of  the  scenery  along  the  line  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio 
R.  R.  makes  it  one  of  the  most  attractive  routes  that  tourists  can  take. 
After  leaving  Baltimore,  the  first  object  of  interest  is  the  Carrollton 
Viaduct.,  a  fine  bridge  of  dressed  granite,  with  an  arch  of  80  ft.  span, 
over  Gwinn's  Falls,  beyond  which  the  road  soon  enters  the  long  and 
deep  excavation  under  the  Washington  turnpike.  Less  than  a  mile 
farther  is  the  "  deep  cut,"  famous  for  its  difficulties  in  the  early  history 
of  the  road.  It  is  76  ft.  deep,  and  nearly  ^  mile  long,  and  just  beyond 
is  the  deep  ravine  of  Robert's  Run.  At  Relay  Station  (9  miles)  the  road 
branches,  the  main  line  striking  westward  through  Ellicott  City  (14 
miles),  Elysville  (20  miles),  llount  Airy  (42  miles),  and  Monocacy  (58 
miles) ;  while  the  Washington  Branch  diverges  to  Washington  City. 
The  latter  route  is  the  one  taken  by  the  through  trains.  Just  beyond 
Relay  Station  the  famous  *  WasJdngton  Viaduct  is  crossed,  a  magnificent 
piece  of  masonry  whose  arches  rest  on  seven  lofty  piers.  The  scenery 
in  this  vicinity  is  very  attractive,  and  a  fine  summer  hotel  has  been 
erected  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river.  Elk  Ridge  (10  miles)  is  a  small 
manufacturing  village  on  the  Patapsco;  and  Hanover  (12  miles)  is  near 
the  iron-mines  which  supply  the  Avalon  Furnaces.  At  Annapolis  Junc- 
tion (19-J  miles)  the  Annapolis,  Washington  &  Baltimore  R.  R.  diverges 
to  Annapolis,  the  capital  of  Maryland,  which  is  worth  a  visit  if  the  trav- 
eler have  time.  Fi'om  Alexandria  Junction  (34  miles)  a  branch  road 
diverges  to  Shepherd,  opposite  Alexandria,  and  5  miles  beyond  the  train 
enters  Washington  City,  the  capital  of  the  Republic.  The  first  view 
of  the  Capitol,  in  approaching  the  city  from  this  direction,  is  exceedingly 
fine,  and  should  not  be  lost — the  dome  presents  "  such  majesty  and 
whiteness  as  you  never  saw  elscAvhere."  Owing  to  the  number  and 
magnificence  of  its  public  buildings,  Washington  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  cities  in  America,  and  no  tourist  should  pass  through  with- 
out stopping  at  least  long  enough  to  visit  its  principal  places  of  inter- 
est. A  detailed  description  of  the  city  and  its  environs  will  be  found 
in  the  portion  of  the  book  devoted  to  the  New  England  and  Middle 
States  (Route  8). 

From  Washington  to  Point  of  Rocks  (where  the  main  line  is  again 
reached)  the  road  traverses  a  beautiful  champaign  country,  extending  to 
the  Catoctin  Mountains,  a  continuation  of  the  Blue  Ridge.     Foint  of 


312  BALTIMOEE  TO   CHICAGO.  [Iloute  70. 

Hocks  (69  miles)  takes  its  name  from  a  bold  promontory,  which  is  formed 
by  the  profile  of  the  Catoctin  Mountain,  against  the  base  of  which  the 
Potomac  River  runs  on  the  Maryland  side,  the  mountain  towering  ap  on 
the  opposite  (Virginia)  shore  forming  the  other  barrier  to  the  pass. 
The  railroad  passes  the  Point  by  a  tunnel,  1,500  ft.  long,  cut  through 
the  solid  rock.  Beyond,  the  ground  becomes  comparatively  smooth,  and 
the  raikoad,  leaving  the  immediate  margin  of  the  river  to  the  Chesa- 
peake &  Ohio  Canal,  runs  along  the  base  of  gently-sloping  hills,  passing 
the  villages  of  Berlin  and  Knoxville,  and  reaching  the  Weverton  facto- 
ries, in  the  pass  to  the  South  Mountain.,  near  which  was  fought  the 
desperate  battle  of  South  Mountain  (Sept.  14,  1862).  From  South 
Mountain  to  Harper's  Ferry  the  road  lies  along  the  foot  of  a  precipice 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  of  3  miles,  the  last  of  which  is 
immediately  under  the  rocky  cliffs  of  Elk  Mountain,  forming  the  N.  side 
of  this  noted  pass.  The  Shenandoah  River  enters  the  Potomac  just 
below  the  bridge  over  the  latter,  and  their  united  currents  rush  rapidly 
over  the  broad  ledges  of  rock  which  stretch  across  their  bed.  The 
length  of  the  bridge,  over  river  and  canal,  is  about  900  ft.,  and  at  its  W. 
end  it  bifurcates,  the  left-hand  branch  connecting  with  the  Yalley 
Branch  of  the  B.  &  0.  R.  R.,  which  passes  directly  up  the  Shenandoah, 
and  the  right-hand  carrying  the  main  road,  by  a  strong  curve  in  that 
direction,  up  the  Potomac.  Harper's  Ferry  (81  miles)  is  delightfully 
situated  in  Jefferson  Co.,  W.  Virginia,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Potomac 
and  Shenandoah  Rivers,  the  town  itself  being  compactly  but  irregularly 
built  around  the  base  of  a  hill.  Before  the  civil  war  it  was  the  seat  of 
an  extensive  and  important  United  States  armory  and  arsenal ;  but  these 
were  destroyed  during  the  war,  and  have  not  been  rebuilt.  The  scenery 
around  Harper's  Ferry  is  wonderfully  picturesque.  Thomas  Jefferson 
pronounced  the  passage  of  the  Potomac  through  the  Blue  Ridge  "  one 
of  the  most  stupendous  scenes  in  nature,  and  well  worth  a  voyage 
across  the  Atlantic  to  witness."  The  tourist  should  stop  here  for  at 
least  one  day,  and  climb  either  Maryland  Heights  (across  the  Potomac) 
or  Bolivar  Heights  (above  the  town).  Apart  from  its  scenery,  the  chief 
interest  pertaining  to  Harper's  Ferry  (which  is  now  a  decadent  village  of 
only  958  inhabitants)  is  historical.  It  was  the  scene  of  the  exploits 
which  in  October,  1859,  rendered  the  name  of  John  Brown,  of  Ossawat- 
tomie-Kansas  notoriety,  still  more  notorious ;  and  Charlestown,  the 
cOunty-seat  where  Brown  and  his  followers  were  tried  and  executed,  is 
only  7  miles  distant  on  the  road  to  Winchester.  During  the  civil  war 
Harper's  Ferry  was  alternately  in  the  hands  of  the  Federals  and  Con- 
federates, and  a  detailed  narrative  of  its  changing  fortunes  would  reflect 
with  fidelity  the  vicissitudes  of  the  war  itself. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Harper's  Ferry  the  road  leaves  the  Potomac 
and  passes  up  the  ravine  of  Elk  Branch,  which,  at  first  narrow  and 
serpentine,  widens  gradually  until  it  almost  loses  itself  in  the  rolling  table- 
land which  characterizes  the  "  Valley  of  Virginia."  The  head  of  Elk 
Branch  is  reached  in  about  9  miles,  and  thence  the  line  descends  gradually 
over  an  undulating  country  to  the  crossing  of  Opequan  Creek.  Beyond 
the  crossing,  the  road  enters  the  open  valley  of  Tuscarora  Creek,  which 


tioiite  70.]  BALTIMORE   TO   CHICAGO.  313 

it  crosses  twice,  aud  follows  to  Martinsburg  (100  miles),  where  the 
railroad  company  have  built  extensive  shops.  The  town  contains  some 
'7,226  inhabitants,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  elevated  plateau  above 
Tuscarora  Creek,  which  affords  a  fine  water-power.  Much  fighting 
occurred  in  this  vicinity  during  the  civil  war,  and  in  June,  1861,  the 
Confederates  destroved  8*7  locomotives  and  400  cars  belonging  to  the  B. 
&  0.  R.  R.  The  Cumberland  Valley  R.  R.  (Route  58)  runs  from  Winches- 
ter to  Harrisburg  in  1 1 6  miles,  passing  through  Martinsburg.  Seven  miles 
beyond  Martinsburg  the  road  crosses  North  Mountain  by  a  long  excavation, 
and  enters  a  poor  and  thinly-settled  district  covered  chiefly  with  a  forest 
in  which  stunted  pine  prevails.  The  Potomac  is  again  reached  at  a  point 
opposite  the  ruins  of  Fort  Frederick,  on  the  Maryland  side.  Sir  Johi's 
Run  (128  miles)  is  but  a  few  miles  from  Berkeley  Springs  (see  Route 
130),  and  just  beyond  the  station  the  track  sweeps  around  the  Cacapon 
Mountain,  opposite  the  remarkable  insulated  hill  called  "  Round  Top." 
The  next  point  of  interest  is  the  Doe  Gulley  Tunnel  (1,200  ft.  long),  the  ap- 
proaches to  which  are  very  imposing.  The  Pcm-Paw  Tunnel  is  next 
reached,  and,  after  passing  through  some  20  miles  of  rugged  and  impres- 
sive scenery,  the  train  crosses  the  N..  branch  of  the  Potomac  by  a  viaduct 
VOO  ft.  long  and  enters  Maryland.  Cumberland  {Queen  City  Hotel) 
is  in  the  mountain-region  of  the  narrow  strip  which  forms  the  W.  part 
of  Maryland,  and  in  point  of  population  and  commerce  is  its  second  city. 
The  entrance  to  the  city  is  beautiful,  and  displays  the  noble  amphitheatre 
in  which  it  lies  to  great  advantage.  The  city  itself  has  a  population  of 
some  12,729,  and  is  the  site  of  the  great  rolling-mills  of  the  R.  R.  Co.^ 
for  the  manufacture  of  steel  rails.  A  few  miles  AV.  of  Cumberland, 
upon  the  summit  of  the  Alleghanies,  begins  the  district  known  as  the 
Cumberland  Coal  Region,  which  extends  W.  to  the  Ohio  River.  Vast 
quantities  of  this  coal  are  sent  E.  by  the  railroad  and  by  the  Chesapeake 
&  Ohio  Canal,  which  has  its  W.  terminus  at  Cumberland  and  runs  to 
tide-water  at  Georgetown.  At  Cumberland  the  Pittsburg  Div.  diverges, 
and  runs  in  150  miles  to  Pittsburg  (see  Route  69).  From  Cumberland 
to  Piedmont  (28  miles)  the  scenery  is  remarkably  picturesque.  For  the 
first  22  miles  to  the  mouth  of  New  Creek,  the  Knobly  Mountain  bounds 
the  valleys  of  the  N.  branch  of  the  Potomac  on  the  left,  and  Will's  and 
Dan's  Mountains  on  the  right ;  thence  to  Piedmont,  the  river  lies  in  the 
gap  which  it  has  cut  through  the  latter  mountains.  The  crossing  of  the 
Potomac  from  Maryland  to  W.  Virginia  is  21  miles  from  Cumberland, 
and  the  view  from  the  bridge,  both  up  and  down  the  river,  is  very  fine. 
At  Piedmont  (206  miles)  the  ascent  of  the  Alleghanies  is  commenced, 
and  Altamont  (223  miles)  is  upon  the  extreme  summit  of  the  range,  2,720 
ft.  above  the  sea.  From  Altamont  westward  for  nearly  20  miles  are 
beautiful  natural  meadows  (known  as  the  "  Glades ")  lying  along  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Youghiogheny  River  and  its  numerous  tributaries, 
divided  by  ridges  of  moderate  elevation  and  gentle  slope,  with  fine 
ranges  of  mountains  in  the  backgroimd.  Three  miles  beyond  Altamont 
is  the  Beer  Park  Hotel^  a  first-class  summer  hotel,  built  and  managed  by 
the  railroad  company.  It  is  2,800  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  surrounded 
by  grand   scenery.     At   Oakland  (6  miles  beyond  Deer  Park,    Glades 


31i  BALTIMOKE  TO   CHICAG-0.  [Boute  70. 

Hotel,  Oakland  Hotel)  are  some  excellent  trout-streams,  and  game  in  the 
adjacent  forests.  The  descent  from  the  summit  plateau  to  Cheat  River 
presents  a  succession  of  very  heavy  excavations,  embankments,  and  tun- 
nels ;  and  at  the  foot  the  famous  Cheat  River  Valley  is  crossed,  with 
fine  views  on  either  side.  For  several  miles  on  this  part  of  the  hne  the 
road  runs  along  the  steep  mountain-side,  presenting  a  succession  of  mag- 
nificent landscapes.  Descending  from  Cassidy's  Ridge,  which  forms  the 
W.  boundary  of  Cheat  River  Yalley,  the  train  soon  reaches  the  King- 
loood  Tunnel,  which  is  4,100  ft.  long  and  cost  $1,000,000;  and,  2  miles 
beyond,  M%irray\  Tunnel,  250  ft.  long.  Grafton  (280  miles)  is  at  the 
end  of  the  mountain  section  of  the  road,  and  is  a  village  of  3,1 5H  inhab- 
itants, picturesquely  situated  on  the  Tygart's  Valley  River. 

At  Grafton  the  Parkersburg  Branch  diverges  to  Parkersburg  and 
Cincinnati  (see  page  315).  The  Chicago  train  runs  IS".  W.  down  the 
Tygart's  River  Valley,  amid  a  variety  of  pleasing  scenery,  and  in  20 
miles  reaches  Fairmont,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Monongahela 
River,  which  is  here  spanned  by  a  fine  suspension-bridge  1,000  ft.  in 
length,  connecting  Fairmont  with  the  village  of  Palatine.  Just  beyond 
Fairmont  the  road  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Monongahela,  and  ascends 
the  winding  and  picturesque  ravine  of  Buffalo  Creek.  At  the  head  of 
the  valley,  '23  miles  from  Fairmont,  the  road  passes  the  ridge  by  deep 
cuts  and  a  tunnel  350  ft.  long,  and  descends  the  other  side  by  the  valley 
of  Church's  Fork  of  Fish  Creek,  through  many  windings  and  tunnels. 
Just  beyond  Littleton  (337  miles)  the  road  passes  through  Broad-Tree 
Tunnel  under  a  great  hill,  which  was  originally  crossed  on  a  zigzag  track 
with  seven  angles  representing  seven  V's,  and  enters  the  Pan-Handle  of 
West  Virginia.  Moundsville  (368  miles)  is  one  of  two  villages  on  the 
Ohio  at  the  mouth  of  Grave  Creek,  the  other  being  Elizahethiown.  The 
approach  to  the  Ohio  at  this  point  is  very  beautiful.  The  line,  emerging 
from  the  defile  of  Grave  Creek,  passes  straight  over  the  "fiats"  that 
border  the  river,  forming  a  vast  rolling  plain,  in  the  middle  of  which 
looms  up  the  great  Indian  Mound,  a  relic  of  the  prehistoric  inhabitants 
of  America,  80  ft.  high  and  200  ft.  broad  at  the  base.  About  3  miles 
up  the  river  from  Moundsville  the  "  flats "  terminate,  and  the  road 
passes  for  a  mile  along  rocky  narrows  washed  by  the  river,  after  which 
it  runs  over  wide,  rich,  and  beautiful  bottom-lands  all  the  way  to  Ben- 
wood  (375  miles),  where  the  river  is  crossed  and  connection  made  with 
the  Central  Ohio  Division.  Four  miles  from  Benwood,  on  the  same 
side,  is  Wheeling  [Hotel  Windsor,  McGlure  House,  Stamm  House),  the 
former  capital  of  West  Virginia  and  a  city  of  35,01 3  inhabitants.  It 
has  a  large  commerce  on  the  Ohio  River,  and  its  manufacturing  inter- 
ests are  extensive,  including  iron  and  nail  mills,  glass-works,  etc.  The 
National  Road  crosses  the  Ohio  here  by  a  graceful  suspension  bridge, 
1,010  ft.  long,  and  the  railroad  bridge  (below  the  city)  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  country.  The  Gustom-House,  of  stone,  also  contains  the 
Post-Office  and  the  IT.  S.  Court-room.  On  the  transfer  of  the  capital  of 
the  State  to  Charleston,  the  Capitol  building  was  converted  into  county 
and  city  offices.  There  are  an  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  a  Public  Library  with 
5,000  volumes,  and  an  Opera-House.     There  are  also  several  costly  and 


Mouie  76>.]  BALTIMOEE   TO    CHICAGO.  315 

ornate  school-buildings.    Near  the  city  is  an  extensive  Fair  Ground,  with 
a  trotting-course. 

At  Benwood  the  Chicago  train  crosses  the  Ohio  River  to  BeUaire 
(3*76  miles),  whence  the  Central  Ohio  Div.  runs  in  about  100  miles  to 
Newark,  through  a  productive  and  populous  country.  The  principal 
station  on  this  portion  of  the  line  is  Zanesville  {Clarendon  Hotel, 
Kirk  House),  a  city  of  21,009  inhabitants,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
Muskingum  River  at  the  mouth  of  Licking  River.  The  Muskingum  is 
here  crossed  by  an  iron  railroad-bridge  538  ft.  long,  and  by  3  other 
bridges.  The  city  is  well  built,  with  wide,  regular  streets,  lighted  with 
gas,  and  has  water-works  costing  over  $500,000,  street  railroads,  and 
a  stone  Cotirt-House  costing  $300,000.  Several  of  the  school-buildings 
are  remarkably  handsome,  and  the  Zanesville  Atheyiceuni  has  a  reading- 
room  and  a  library  of  5,500  volumes.  The  country  around  Zanesville 
is  fertile,  and  is  the  source  of  a  profitable  trade ;  but  the  chief  interest 
is  manufacturing,  for  which  facilities  are  afforded  by  the  water-power  in 
the  rivers,  and  the  bituminous  coal,  iron-ore,  limestone,  and  clays  of  the 
adjacent  region.  The  Muskingum  River  is  navigable  to  Dresden,  1*7 
miles  above  the  city.  Neivark  (480  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  (Route  73),  and  is  there  de- 
scribed. From  Newark  the  Central  Ohio  Div.  passes  W.  in  33  miles  to 
Columbus  (see  Route  73).  The  Lake  Erie  Div.  of  the  B.  &  0.  R.  R.  runs 
N.  W.  through  a  rich  agricultural  region,  by  numerous  small  towns  to 
Mansfield  (542  miles),  which  is  at  the  Junction  of  Routes  67  and  68, 
and  which  has  already  been  described  in  Route  68.  Shelby  Junction 
(554  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  Route  72.  From  Chicago  Junction  (568 
miles)  the  Lake  Erie  Div.  continues  N.  to  Sandusky  (596  miles),  on 
Lake  Erie,  while  the  Chicago  Div.  diverges  and  runs  W.  across  northern 
Ohio  and  Indiana.  Among  the  towns  en  route  are  such  important  ones  as 
Tiff  en,  Fostoria,  Defiance,  and  Garrett.  The  country  traversed,  though 
extremely  fertile  and  productive,  offers  few  picturesque  features.  Defi- 
ance (656  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Wabash  R.  R.  (Route  79).  At 
G-arrett  (696  miles)  most  of  the  trains  stop  for  meals,  and  between  this 
place  and  Chicago  there  is  little  to  attract  attention  except  the  numerous 
railways  that  are  intersected.     Chicago  (see  Route  71). 

From  Grafton  to  Cincinnati. 
At  Grafton,  as  already  mentioned  (see  p.  314),  the  Parkersburg  Div. 
diverges  from  the  main  line  and  runs  W.  to  the  Ohio  River.  It  passes 
through  a  country  which  is  well  wooded,  and  rich  in  coal  and  petroleum, 
but  without  interest  for  the  tourist,  though  some  rugged  mountain 
scenery  is  occasionally  seen  from  the  cars.  Clarksburg  (302  miles  from 
Baltimore)  is  the  first  station  of  any  consequence,  and  is  situated  on  a 
high  table-land  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Monongahela  River,  surrounded 
by  hills.  It  has  some  3,008  inhabitants,  and  in  the  vicinity  there  are 
valuable  mines  of  bituminous  coal.  Petroleum  (362  miles)  is  in  the  rich 
Oil  Regions  of  West  Virginia,  and  from  Laurel  Fork  Junction  (364 
miles)  a  branch  road  leads  N,  to  Volcano,  the  most  important  place  in 
the  Oil  Region.     At  Claysville  (377  miles)  the  Little  Kanawha  River  is 


31B  CHTCA.GO.  [Route  71. 

reached,  and  the  train  follows  it  for  7  miles  to  Parkersburg  {Central 
Hotels  HilVs),  a  city  of  8,408  inhabitants,  with  a  large  trade  in  petro- 
leum. Here  the  train  crosses  the  Ohio  River  to  Belpre  on  a  splendid 
bridge,  1-J-  mile  long,  with  6  spans  over  the  river  and  43  approaching 
spans,  completed  in  18'7l  at  a  cost  of  over  $1,000,000.  At  Belpre 
the  train  passes  on  to  the  tracks  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Southwestern 
R.  R.,  and  in  S*?  miles  reaches  Athens,  one  of  the  largest  towns  of 
S.  Ohio,  with  a  population  of  2,620,  and  considerable  trade  with  the 
surrounding  country.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Hocking  River, 
and  is  the  seat  of  the  Ohio  University^  founded  in  1804,  and  the  oldest 
college  in  the  State.  One  of  the  State  Lunatic  Asylums  is  also  located 
here,  and  in  the  vicinity  are  several  Indian  mounds,  similar  to  the  one 
at  Moundsville  (see  p.  314).  Several  small  stations  are  now  passed, 
and  then  comes  the  flourishing  city  of  Chillicothe,  beautifully  situated 
on  a  hill-environed  plateau,  through  which  flows  the  Scioto  River.  Chilli- 
cothe  was  settled  in  1*796,  and  from  1800  to  1810  was  the  seat  of  the 
State  government,  which  was  afterward  removed  to  Zanesville  and  then 
to  Columbus.  It  had  in  1890  a  population  of  11,288,  and  is  the  center 
of  nearly  all  the  trade  of  the  rich  farming  country  bordering  on  the 
Scioto,  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  districts  in  the  United  States.  Its 
manufactures  are  also  important,  including  carriage  and  wagon  factories, 
flour-mills,  machine-shops,  a  paper-mill,  shoe-factory,  etc.  The  city  is 
regularly  laid  out,  the  principal  avenues  following  the  general  course 
of  the  river,  and  being  intersected  at  right  angles  by  others,  all  lighted 
by  electricity.  The  two  main  streets,  which  ci'oss  each  other  in  the 
center  of  the  city,  are  each  99  ft.  wide ;  Water  St.,  facing  the  river,  is 
%1\  ft.  wide,  and  the  width  of  the  others  is  66  ft.  There  are  many 
handsome  public  buildings,  including  14  churches,  5  brick  school-houses, 
a  Public  Library  of  12,000  volumes,  and  a  Court-House^  built  of  stone, 
at  a  cost  of  ov^er  .$100,000.  The  Ohio  &  Erie  Canal  passes  through  the 
city.  Between  Chillicothe  and  Cincinnati  there  is  no  place  requiring 
mention,  though  the  traveler  through  this  portion  of  Ohio  can  not  but 
be  struck  with  the  neatness  of  the  villages,  the  fei^tility  of  the  land,  and 
the  high  state  of  cultivation  to  which  it  has  been  brought.  Cincin- 
nati (see  Route  7 5). 

71.  Chicago. 

Hotels.— Among  the  hotels  of  Chicago  are  some  of  the  largest  in  the  world. 
The  Avcliforimn,  Congress  St.,  Wabash  and  Michigan  Aves.;  the  Great  North- 
ern, Dearborn,  Qumcy,  and  Jackson  Sts. ;  the  Grand  Pacific,  La  Salle,  Jackson, 
and  Clark  Sts.;  the  Leland,  Michigan  Ave.  and  Jackson  St.;  the  Metropole, 
Michigan  Ave.  and  23d  St ;  the  Palmer  House,  State  and  Mom-oe  Sts.;  the  Sher- 
man House,  Clark  and  Randolph  St?.;  the  Bichelieu,  Michigan  Ave.,  between 
Jackson  and  Van  Bnren  Sts. ;  the  Tremont  House,  Lake  and  Dearborn  Sts. ;  and 
the  Wellington,  Wabash  Ave.  and  Jackson  St.,  are  all  first-class  houses,  and 
vary  in  prices  from  $2..o0  a  day  upward.  Good  hotels  on  a  more  modest  scale 
are  the  Atlantic,  Van  Buren  and  Sherman  Sts.;  the  Briggs  House,  Eandolph 
St.  and  5th  Ave. ;  the  Clifton  House.  Wabash  Ave.  and  Monroe  St. ;  and  the 
GauU  House,  W.  Madison" and  Clinton  Sts.  Good  hotels  on  the  European  plan 
are  the  Brevoort,  in  Madison  St..  between  La  Salle  and  Clark  Sts.;  Gore'' s  Hotel, 
at  26G  S.  Clark  St.;  Grace,  on  Clai'k  and  Jackson  Sts.;  McCoy's,  Clark  and  Van 
Buren  Sts.;  and  the  Saratoga,  at  155  Dearborn  St.;  while  the  Drexel,  at  the 
entrance  to  Washington  Park  ;  the  Woodruff,  Wabash  Ave.  and  21st  St. ;  Hyde 


Route  7i.]  CHICAGO.  317 

Park.  Lake  Ave.  and  51st  St. ;  the  Lexington,  Michigan  Ave.  and  22d  St. ;  and 
the  Virginia,  at  78  Rush  St.,  are  more  strictly  family  hotels.  Many  new  hotels 
have  sprxmg  up  in  the  ''World's  Fair  district,"  some  of  which  are  first-class 
both  in  accommodations  and  prices.    (See  Appendix.) 

Restaurants. — Besides  the  restaurants  connected  with  the  hotels,  first-class' 
eating-hotises  will  be  found  conveniently  located  along  the  principal  thorough- 
fares. Among  these  may  be  mentioned  Kinsley''s,  105  Adams  St. ;  Eector's  and 
Racers,  at  cors.  Monroe  "and  Clark  Sts. ;  The  American,  at  Adams  and  State 
Sts.:  Thomson's.  Tribune  block,  cor.  Madison  and  Clark  Sts.:  Werner's,  in 
Madison  St. :  the  Boston  Oyster-House,  cor.  Madison  and  Clark  Sts. ;  the  Chi- 
cago Oyster- House,  near  by  ;  Col.  Wilson's  shell-fish  house,  in  Washington  St. 
near  Wabash  Ave. ;  and  Vienna  Bakeries,  in  Madison  St.  near  Eth  Ave.  and  at 
36  Washington  St.  Men  may  get  first-class  meals  at  Chapin  S  Gore'v,  in  Mon- 
roe St.;  at  Kern's,  La  Salle  and  Washington  Sts.;  and  at  Billy  Boyle's  Chop- 
House,  in  alley  off  Dearborn,  between  Madison  and  Washington  Sts. 

Modes  of  Conveyance.— The  street-car  service  includes  cable,  electric,  ele- 
vated, and  horse-car  systems  (fare,  5c.).  Parmelee's  omnibuses  are  in  waiting  at 
the  stations,  and  carry  passengers  to  hotels  or  stations  with  baggage  (fare,  50c.). 
Carriages  are  in  waiting  at  the  stations  and  steamboat-landings,  as  well  as  at 
hotels,  and  at  the  Court-House  and  City  Hall.  The  legal  rates  of  fare  are  as 
follows  :  For  cabs  and  other  one-horse  conveyances,  one  mile  or  fraction  thereof, 
for  each  passenger,  for  the  first  mile,  25c. ;  for  each  sticceeding  mile  or  fraction 
thereof,  for  one  or  more  passengers,  25c.  By  the  hour,  cab-charges  will  be  : 
For  the  first  hour,  75c.;  for  each  succeeding  quarter-hour,  20c.  For  service 
otttside  the  city  limits  or  in  the  parks  :  For  the  first  hour,  $1 ;  for  each  succeed- 
ing quarter-hour,  25c.  For  hacks  and  other  vehicles  drawn  by  two  horses,  rates 
will  be  as  follows  :  One  or  two  passengers  from  one  railroad  depot  to  another, 
%1  ;  one  or  two  passengers  not  exceeding  one  mile,  %1  ;  one  or  two  passen- 
gers any  distance  overdone  mile  and  less  than  two  miles,  $1.50  ;  each  addi- 
tional passenger  of  the  same  party,  oOc. ;  conveying  one  or  two  passengers  any 
distance  exceeding  two  miles,  $2  ;  each  additional  passenger  of  the  same  party, 
50c.  Children  between  5  and  14  years  of  age  will  be  carried  at  one-half  the  rates 
named  for  hacks  and  two-horse  vehicles  ;  and  children  under  5  years  will  be 
carried  free  not  exceeding  one  mile.  Hackney-coach  or  other  two-hcrse  vehicle, 
$8  a  day  ;  by  the  hour,  mcluding  stops,  for  the  first  hour,  |2;  for  each  addi- 
tional hour  or  fraction  thereof,  %i.  At  the  principal  depots  and  street-corners 
are  the  Gurney  cabs  and  the  Hansom  cabs  (25c.  for  each  person  from  one  point 
to  another,  or  75c.  per  hour  for  two  persons). 

Railroad  Stations.— There  are  6  Union  Eailtvay  Stations  in  the  city.  The 
Pittsburg,  i^t.  Wayne  &  Chicago  E.  E.,  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  E.  R., 
Chicago  &  Alton  E.  E.,  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  E.  E.,  and  Pittsburg, 
Cincinnati,  Chicago,  &  St.  Louis  E.  E.  (Pennsylvania  system)  depart  from  the 
station  cor.  Canal  and  Adams  Sts.  The  Chicago  &  Northwestern  E.  E.,  with  all 
its  divisions,  occupies  a  large  station  of  its  own,  on  the  cor.  of  N.  Wells  and  Kin- 
zie  Sts.  The  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  E.  E.,  Lake  Shore  &  Michigan 
Southern  E.  R.  (New  York  Central  connection),  and  the  New  York,  Chicago  & 
St.  Louis  R.  R.  depart  from  the  station  cor.  Van  Buren  and  Sherman  Sts.  The 
Wabash  E.  E.,  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  E.  E.,  Chicago  &  E.  Illinois  E.  E.,  the 
Santa  Fe  system,  and  the  Chicago  &  Atlantic  E.  E.  (Erie  system)  arrive  and 
depart  from  the  Louisville,  New  Albany  &  Chicago  (Monon.  route)  station  at  the 
foot  oj-'  Dearborn  St.,  cor.  Polk  St.  aucl  3d  Ave.  The  Michigan  Central  E.  E., 
Illinois  Central  E.  E.,  and  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  E.  (the 
"Big  Four'')  depart  from  the  Central  Station,  foot  of^Lake  and  Eandclph  Sts. 
The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E.,  the  Chicago,  Detroit  &  Niagara  Falls  E.  E.,  and 
the  Wisconsin  Central  (Northern  Pacific  System)  have  their  station  at  Harrison 
St.  and  Mh  Axe. 

Theatres  and  Amusements.— .l/Z^aw^Sra,  cor.  State  St.  and  Archer 
Ave.;  Auditorium,  in  Congress  St.,  between  AVabash  and  Michigan  Aves.; 
Chicago  Opera-Hcuse,  Clark  and  Washington  Sts.  ;  ColumMa  Theatre,  in 
Monroe,  between  Clark  and  Dearborn  Sts.;  Criterion,  cor.  Sedgwick  and 
Division  Sts.;  Germania  Theatre,  in  Eaudolph,  near  Clark  St.:  Grand  Opera- 
House,  in  Clark,  between  Washington  and  Eandolph  Sts.  ;  Halsied  Street 
Op  ra-House,  Halsted  and  Harrison  Sts.  :  Hailin's  Theatre,  in  Wabash 
Ave.,  between  18th  and  20th  Sts.;  Haymarket  Theatre,  in  W.  Madison  St., 


318  CHICAGO.  [Route  71. 

"between  Halsted  and  Union  Sts.;  ITooIey''s  Theatre,  in  Kandolph,  between  La 
Salle  and  Clark  Sts.;  Jacob'' s  Academy,  in  S.  Halsted  St.,  near  W.  Madison 
St.;  Jacob's  Clark  Street  Theatre,  in  N.  Clark  St.,  near  the  bridge;  Lyceum 
Theatre,  in  Desplaines  St.,  between  Madison  and  Washington  Sts.;  Madison 
Street  Theatre,  in  Madison  St.,  between  Dearborn  and  State  Sts.;  McVicker's 
Theatre,  in  Madison,  between  Dearborn  and  State  Sts.  ;  Park  Theatre,  in 
State,  between  Congi-ess  and  Harrison  Sts. ;  People'' s  Theatre,  in  State,  be- 
tween Congress  and  Harrison  Sts. ;  Schiller  Theatre,  Washington  St  ,  between 
Dearborn  and  Clark  Sis.;  Standard  Theatre,  cor.  Halsted  and  Jackson  Sts.; 
Timmerman's  Oinra-House,  cor.  Stewart  Ave.  and  63d  St.;  Waverly  Theatre, 
in  W.  Madison  St..  between  Throop  and  Loomis  St.;  and  Windsor  Theatre, 
cor.  N.  Clark  and  Division  Sts.,  are  the  leading  places  of  amusement.  There 
are  2  Cyclorama  Buildings  on  the  cor.  of  Wabash  Ave.  and  Panorama  PL  The 
Chicago  Fire  Cyclorama  is  at  Michigan  Ave.  and  Monroe  St.  The  Casino,  in 
Wabash  Ave.  near  Adams  St.,  contains  an  exhibition  of  wax-works.  The  Cen- 
tral Music  Hall,  cor.  Eandolph  and  State  Sts.,  and  the  Methodist  Church  Block 
Hall,  are  used  for  lectures  and  concerts,  and  generally  for  religious  services  on 
Sunday.  Besides  several  cheaper  museums,  the  Libby  Prison  Museum,,  in  Wa- 
bash Ave.,  between  14th  and  16th  Sts.,  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  as  it  contains  many 
relics  of  the  civil  war,  and  other  historical  curiosities.  Steele  MacKaye's  Sjjec- 
tatorium  is  in  Stony  Island  Ave.,  N.  of  the  Exposition  Grounds. 

Keading-Kooms.— At  all  the  leading  hotels  there  are  reading-rooms  for 
the  use  of  guests,  well  supplied  with  newspapers.  The  Public  Library,  one  of 
the  best  in  the  country,  contains  about  175,000  volumes,  has  an  excellent  read- 
ing-room, containing  newspapers  and  magazines  from  all  parts  of  the  civilized 
world,  and  is  open  from  9  A.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  This  will  occupy  a  building  (now 
in  course  of  erection)  at  Michigan  Ave.,  Eandolph  and  Washington  Sts.  The 
Chicago  Athenceum,  44  and  54  Dearborn  St.,  has  a  system  of  night  and  day 
lectures  for  mechanics,  a  large  library  and  gymnasium,  and  is  open  irom  8  a.  m. 
to  9  p.  >i.  The  Young  Men''s  Christian  Association  has  a  library  and  reading- 
room  at  148  Madison  St.  (Farwell  Hall),  to  which  all  are  welcome  (open  from 
8  A.  M.  to  10  p.  M.).  The  Academy  of  Sciences,  in  Wabash  Ave.  near  Van  Buren 
St.,  has  a  small  library  and  a  museum.  The  Chicago  Historical  Society  Library, 
at  142  Dearborn  St.,  has  a  growing  collection  of  historical  books.  The  Union 
Catholic  Library,  94  Dearborn  St.,  has  a  small  collection  of  books.  The  great 
Netvberry  Free  Library,  endowed  with  property  valued  at  upward  of  $2,000,000, 
is  temporarily  at  the"  corner  of  Oak  and  North  State  Sts.,  and  is  a  reference 
library  only.  '  Its  new  building,  to  occupy  the  entire  block  on  the  S.  E.  cor.  of 
North  Clark  and  Oak  Sts.,  is  m  process  of  erection.  The  Library  already  has 
50,000  volumes,  chiefly  of  scientific  or  scholarly  character.  It  contains  the 
largest  and  most  valua"ble  collection  of  musical  works  in  this  countrv.  The  late 
John  Crerar  bequeathed  $2,000,000  for  the  establishment  of  The  John  Crerar 
Library  on  "the  South  Side "  of  Chicago. 

Clubs.— The  principal  social  clubs  are  the  Calumet,  cor.  Michigan  Ave.  and 
20th  St.;  the  Chicago,  in  Monroe  St.,  betwer^n  Sta'e  St.  and  Wabash  Ave.; 
Douglas  Club,  3518  Ellis  Ave.;  Illinois  Club,  154  Ashland  Ave.;  Iroquois  Club,  110 
Monroe  St. ;  Kenwood  Chih,  Lake  Ave.  and  47th  St. ;  lakeside  Club,  Indiana  Ave.. 
between  31st  and  32d  Sts. ;  La  Salle  Club,  252  Monroe  St. ;  Oakland  Club,  cor.  Ellis 
and  Oakland  Aves.;  Phoenix  Club,  Calumet  Ave.  and  31st  St. :  Press  Club,  131 
Clark  St.  ;  Standard  Club,  Michigan  Ave.  and  13th  St. ;  Union  Club,  Washington 
PI.  and  Dearborn  Ave.  ;  Union  League  Club,  cor.  Jackson  St  and  4th  Ave.; 
University  Club,  cor.  Dearborn  St.  and  Calhoun  PI. ;  and  Whitechapel  Club,  at  173 
Calhoun  PI.  Admission  on  introduction  by  a  member.  Besides  the  foregoing 
there  are  numerous  college  and  State  clubs,  as  well  as  a  Chicago  Woman's  Club. 

Post-Office.— The  General  Post-OfQce  is  in  the  block  bounded  by  Adams, 
Jackson,  Dearborn,  and  Clark  Sts.  It  is  open  for  business  from  8  a.  m.  to  7  p.  m. 
on  week-days,  and  from  11  a.  m.  to  1  p.  m.  on  Sundays.  There  are,  besides,  20 
sub-postal  stations  and  11  carrier  stations  in  diiferent  portions  of  the  city,  be- 
sides numerous  lamp-post  boxes. 

Chicago,  the  principal  city  of  Illinois,  has  within  50  years  grown 
from  a  small  Indian  trading  station  to  the  position  of  the  metropolis  of 
the  West,  and  the  greatest  railway  center  on  the  continent.     It  is  situ- 


Route  71.] 


CHICAGO. 


319 


ated  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chicago 
and  Calumet  Rivers,  in  lat.  about  41°  50'  N.,  and  Ion.  10°  33'  W.  from 
Washing-ton.  The  site  of  the  business  portion  is  14  ft.  above  the 
lake ;  it  was  originally  much  lower,  but  has  been  built  up  from  3  to 
y  ft.  since  1856.     It  is  an  inclined  plane,  rising  toward  the  W.  to  the 


height  of  28  ft.,  giving  slow  but  sufficient  drainage.  The  city  stands 
on  the  dividing-ridge  between  the  basins  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  surrounded  by  a  prairie  stretching  several  hundred  miles  S. 
and  W.  One  eighth  of  a  mile  N.  of  the  Court-House  the  Chicago  River 
extends  W.  a  little  more  than  half  a  mile,  and  then  divides  into  the 


320  CHICAGO.  [Route  71. 

North  and  South  branches,  which  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  lake- 
shore,  about  2  miles  in  each  direction.  The  river  and  its  branches,  with 
numerous  slips,  give  a  water-frontage  of  58  miles,  while  the  lake-front 
affords  22  miles  of  additional  frontage,  on  which  an  outer  harbor  is  now 
in  process  of  construction.  Connected  with  the  S.  branch  is  the  termi- 
nus of  the  Illinois  &  Michigan  Canal,  which  extends  to  the  Illinois  River 
at  La  Salle.  The  city  extends  N.  and  S.  along  the  lake.  Its  length  is 
24  miles,  and  it  is  lOj  broad  at  its  widest  point,  embracing  an  area  of 
nearly  182  sq.  miles.  Beyond  these  limits  suburbs  extend  for  10  miles 
north,  west,  and  south,  connected  with  the  city  by  many  local  trains  on 
the  railways.  The  rivers  divide  the  city  into  three  distinct  parts,  known 
as  the  Nox-th,  South,  and  West  Divisions,  which  are  connected  by  45 
bridges  and  2  brick  tunnels  imder  the  river-bed.  The  improved  water- 
front is  30  miles  long,  on  which  are  the  lumber  and  coal  yards,  eleva- 
tors and  warehouses.  It  is  the  greatest  corn,  cattle,  and  timber  market 
in  the  world.  Tlie  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  streets  generally  80  ft. 
wide,  and  many  of  them  from  3  to  7  miles  in  length,  crossing  each  other 
at  right  angles.  State,  Halsted,  Western  Ave.,  and  several  other  streets 
extend  the  whole  length  of  the  city  (24  miles). 

The  first  white  visitors  to  the  site  of  Chicago  were  Joliet  and  Marquette,  who 
arrived  in  August,  1673.  The  first  permanent  settlement  was  made  in  1804,  dur- 
ing which  year  Fort  Dearborn  was  built  by  the  U.  S.  Government.  The  fort 
stood  near  the  head  of  Michigan  Ave.,  below  its  intersection  with  Lake  St.  It 
was  abandoned  in  1812,  rebuilt  in  1816,  and  finally  demolished  in  1856.  At  the 
close  of  1830,  Chicago  contained  12  houses  and  3  "  country  "residences  in  Madi- 
son St.,  with  a  population  (composed  of  whites,  half-breeds,  and  blacks)  of 
about  100.  The  town  was  organized  in  1833,  and  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1837. 
The  first  frame  building  was  erected  in  1832,  and  the  first  brick  house  in  1833. 
The  first  vessel  entered  the  harbor  June  11,  1884  ;  and  at  the  first  census,  taken 
July  1,  1837,  the  entire  population  was  found  to  be  4,170.  In  18.50  the  popula- 
tion had  increased  to  29,963  ;  in  1860,  to  112,172  ;  in  1870,  to  298,977  ;  and  in 
1880,  to  508,304.  The  population  in  1890  was  1,099,850.  In  October,  1871,  Chi- 
cago was  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  destructive  conflagrations  of  modern 
times.  The  fire  originated  on  Sunday  evening,  October  8th,  in  a  small  barn 
in  De  Koven  St.,  in  the  S.  part  of  the  West  Division,  from  the  upsetting,  as 
is  supposed,  of  a  lighted  kerosene-lamp.  The  buildings  in  that  quarter  were 
mostly  of  wood,  and  there  were  several  lumber-yards  along  the  margin  of  the 
river.  Through  these  the  flames  swept  with  resistless  fury,  and  were  carried 
across  the  South  branch  by  the  strong  westerly  wind  then  prevailing,  and 
thence  spread  into  the  South  Division,  which  was  closely  built  up  with  stores, 
warehouses,  and  public  buildings  of  stone,  brick,  and  iron,  many  of  them  sup- 
posed to  be  fire-proof.  The  fire  raged  all  day  Monday,  and  crossed  the  mam 
channel  of  the  Chicago  River,  sweeping  all  before  it  in  the  Northern  District, 
which  was  occupied  mostly  by  dwelling-houses.  The  last  house  was  not 
reached  till  Tuesday  morning,  and  many  of  the  ruins  were  still  burning  several 
months  afterward.  The  total  area  burned  over,  including  streets,  was  nearly  3i 
sq.  m.  The  number  of  buildings  destroyed  was  17,4.50  ;  persons  rendered 
homeless.  98,500  ;  persons  kiUed,  about  200.  Not  including  depreciation  of  real 
estate  or  loss  of  business,  it  is  estimated  that  the  total  loss  occasioned  by  the 
fire  was  $190,000,000,  of  which  about  $30,000,000  was  recovered  on  insurance, 
though  one  of  the  first  results  of  the  fire  was  to  bankrupt  many  of  the  insur- 
ance companies  all  over  the  country.  The  business  of  the  city  was  interrupted 
but  a  short  time,  however.  Before  winter  many  of  the  merchants  were  doing 
business  in  ext^emporized  wooden  structures,  and  the  rest  in  private  dwellings.  In 
a  year  after  the  fire,  a  large  part  of  the  burned  district  had  been  rebuilt,  and  at 
present  there  is  scarcely  a  trace  of  the  terrible  disaster  save  in  the  improved 
character  of  the  new  buildings  over  those  destroyed.  On  July  14,  1874,  still  an- 
other great  file  swept  over  the  ujifortuimte  city,  destroying  18  blocks  or  60  acres 


Boute  71.]  CHICAGO.  321 

in  tlie  heart  of  the  city,  and  about  $5,000,000  worth  of  property.  Chicago  ranks 
next  in  commercial  importance  to  New  York  among  the  cities  of  the  United 
States.  As  earlv  as  1854  it  had  become  the  greatest  primary  depot  for  grain  in 
the  wor.d  ;  and"siuce  then  it  has  also  become  the  greatest  grain,  live-stock,  and 
lumber  market  in  the  world.  The  manufactures  of  Chicago  are  extensive  and 
important,  and  include  ii-on  and  steel  works,  manufactories  of  car-wheels,  cars, 
and  other  railroad  apphances,  flour-mills,  f lu-niture  factories,  boot  and  shoe  f ac- 
torie.^,  and  tanneries. 

State,  Clark,  and  Madison  Sts.  are  the  principal  retail  business 
thoroughfares.  La  Salle  and  Dearborn  Sts.  are  devoted  to  banking 
and  office  business.  The  S.  side  avenues  that  should  be  seen  are 
Michigan  Boulevard,  Calumet,  Prairie,  and  Wahash.  On  the  N.  side  are 
La  Salle  and  Dearborn  Aves.,  and  Rush,  Fine,  and  Cass  Sts.,  with  the 
Lake  Shot-e  Drive.  In  this  quarter  are  the  residences  of  Palmer,  the 
Farwells,  Medill,  Archbislwp  Feehan,  McCormick,  Tree,  and  Smith.  On 
the  W,  side,  Madison  and  Halsted  Sts.  are  the  best  shop-streets.  Wash- 
ington, Drexel,  and  Grand  Boulevards  are  especially  noteworthy.  The 
best  drives  are  southward  to  the  parks,  the  Lake  Sho7'e  Drive,  and 
Sheridan  Drive. 

The  Board  of  Trade,  at  La  Salle,  Jackson,  and  Sherman  Sts.,  is 
in  the  heart  of  the  business  quarter.  In  its  immediate  neighborhood 
are  some  of  the  tallest  and  finest  office-buildings  in  the  world.  Among 
them  are  *  The  Rookery,  12  stories  high,  and  accommodating  2,500 
tenants;  *  "■  The  Wortmn's  Building,'''  16  stories;  the  Home  Insurance 
Building,  14  stories;  the  Ifisurance\Exchange  and  Rand- McNally Build- 
ings, each  10  stories;  the  Counselman  Building,  12  stories;  The  Phoe- 
nix, 12  stories;  the  Great  Northern  Hotel  (just  completed),  at  Jack- 
son and  Dearborn  Sts.,  1'7  stories;  the  Owings  Building,  14  stories; 
the  Manhattan  and  Monadnock,  each  17  stories;  the  Royal,  12  stories, 
etc.  The  Tacoma,  at  La  Salle  and  Madison  Sts.,  and  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  at  La  Salle  and  Washington  Sts.,  are  each  14  stories  high ; 
and  the  Masonic  Temple,  State  and  Randolph  Sts.,  is  20  stories  high. 
A  new  Odd-Fellows'  Building  is  projected,  to  be  34  stories  high.  Other 
notable  structures  are  Temple  Court,  the  Chicago  Opera-House  (Wash- 
ington and  Clark  Sts.),  the  Monon,  the  Caxton,  the  Rialto,  Montauk, 
Calumet,  Pullman,  Walker,  Goff,  Marshall  Fields' s  Wholesale,  the  Leiter, 
First  National  Bank,  and  Adams  Express  Buildings,  and  the  great 
*A^iditorium  Hotel — fine  view  from  tower  (elevator).  The  City  Hall 
and  Court-House  cost  $5,000,000.  The  H.  S.  Cnstom-House  and  Post- 
Office  occupies  an  entire  block.  In  the  Board  of  Trade's  Chamber  is 
a' free  gallery  which  gives  a  view  of  the  interior.  The  tower  is  303  ft. 
high.  The  "rotundas  "  of  the  Rookery,  the  Royal,  and  the  Union  Depot, 
at'Canal  and  Madison  Sts.,  should  be  visited. 

Out  of  the  300  churches,  there  are  a  few  notable  structures.  The 
*  Unity  Church  (Unitarian),  in  Dearborn  Ave.,  cor.  Lafayette  Place,  is 
a  light  stone  structure,  in  the  modern  Gothic  style,  with  double  spires. 
ThQ  Second  Presbyterian,  cor.  Michigan  Ave.  and  18th  St.,  is  a  large  and 
imposing  stone  structure.  The  Immanuel  Baptist  Church,  in  Michigan 
Ave.  near  24th  St.,  is  of  stone,  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  graceful  tower 
and  spire.  Grace  Church  (Episcopal),  in  Wabash  Ave.,  near  14th  St.,  is  a 
21 


3^2  CHICAG-O.  [Route  71. 

handsome  stone  edifice  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  open  timber  roof  and  a 
richlj'  decorated  interior.  St.  James's  (Episcopal),  cor.  Cass  and  Huron 
Sts.,  is  large  and  massive,  with  a  square  flanking  tower.  The  Union 
Park  Congregational.^  cor.  Ashland  Ave.  and  Washington  St.,  has  a  lofty 
spire,  and  is  quite  ornate  in  style.  The  Second  Baptist.,  cor,  Monroe  and 
Morgan  Sts.,  is  a  plain  edifice  in  the  Italian  style,  with  a  most  peculiar 
spire.  The  Church  of  the  Holy  Family  (Roman  Catholic),  in  W.  12th 
St.,  is  pui-e  Gothic  in  style,  and  has  an  extremely  rich  and  noble  interior. 
The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral.,  N.  side,  is  also  a  fine  building. 

Among  the  literary  and  educational  institutions  of  Chicago  a  fore- 
most place  must  be  assigned  to  the  *  Public  Library,  the  nucleus  of 
which  was  contributed  by  English  authors  and  publishers  in  IS'ZS,  and 
which  now  numbers  156,000  volumes,  including  many  German,  French, 
Putch,  Norse,  Swedish,  and  Bohemian  books.  Its  rooms  are  at  present 
on  the  top  floor  of  the  W.  wing  of  the  Court-House,  but  a  magnificent 
fire-proof  structure  is  being  erected  at  Michigan  Avenue,  Randolph  and 
Washington  Sts.,  which  will  be  the  finest  library-building  in  the  coun- 
try. The  Academy  of  Sciences.,  established  in  1857,  lost  a  valuable  col- 
lection of  38,000  specimens  in  the  fire,  but  has  erected  a  building  in 
Wabash  Ave.  near  Van  Buren  St.,  and  is  slowly  gathering  a  museum 
and  library.  The  *Art  Institute,  Michigan  Ave.  and  Adams  Sts., 
was  established  in  1869.  It  is  one  of  the  foremost  art  museums  in  the 
United  States,  and  maintains  one  of  the  most  successful  art  schools  in 
the  country.  It  contains  a  choice  collection  of  modern  paintings,  sev- 
eral extremely  fine  examples  of  the  old  masters  (Rembrandt,  Rubens, 
Van  Dyck,  Terburg,  Ruysdael,  Hobbema,  etc.,  from  the  DemidofP,  May, 
and  other  collections) ;  a  collection  of  Greek  vases  and  antiquities,  ivory 
carvings,  and  many  interesting  art-objects.  There  are  usually  loan  col- 
lections on  exhibition.  The  Art  Institute's  new  building  on  the  lake- 
front,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Inter-State  Exposition  Building,  is  320  ft. 
long  and  1*70  ft.  deep,  constructed  of  granite  and  marble  at  a  cost 
of  $800,000.  The  collections  of  the  Art  Institute  may  not  be  placed 
therein  before  next  year,  owing  to  the  use  of  the  building  by  the 
Columbian  Exposition  for  "  World's  Congresses,"  etc.,  during  the  pres- 
ent year.  Three  blocks  S.  is  the  vast  *  Auditorium,  containing  a 
theatre  with  7,000  seats  and  a  hotel  with  10  floors.  From  the  Tow- 
er Observatory  a  fine  view  of  the  city  can  be  obtained  (fee,  25c.). 
The  Chicago  Historical  Museum  is  in  Dearborn  Ave.  near  Ontario,  and 
will  well  repay  a  visit.  The  Baptist  Theologiccd  Seminary  is  located  at 
Morgan  Park,  a  suburb.  The  Chicago  Theological  Seminary  has  a  fine 
stone  building  in  the  Norman  style ;  and  the  Hammond  Library  is  on 
the  W.  side  of  Union  Park,  at  the  intersection  of  Ashland  Ave.  and 
Warren  St.  The  Presbyterian  TJieological  Seminary  has  a  fine  edifice  at 
the  cor.  of  Fullerton  Ave.  and  Halsted  St.  It  is  5  stories  high,  and  con- 
tains a  good  library.  The  St,  Ignatius  College  (Roman  Catholic)  has 
an  ornate  and  costly  building,  413  W.  12th  St.  The  University  of  Chi- 
cago is  an  educational  institution  whose  buildings,  when  completed, 
will  extend  from  56th  to  59th  Sts.,  between  Ellis  and  Greenwood  Aves. 
There  are  departments  of  law,  medicine,  theology,  civil,  mechanical,  and 


Eoute  71.]  CHICAGO.  323 

electrical  eDgineering,  pedagogy,  fine  art?,  music,  etc.,  in  addition  to  the 
regular  academic  courses.  John  D.  Rockefeller  subscribed  $2,600,000 
toward  the  establishment  of  this  institution,  and  citizens  of  Chicago 
have  subscribed  $5,000,000.  Instruction  began  Oct.  1,  1892.  Charles 
T.  Yerkes,  a  wealthy  citizen  of  Chicago,  has  given  .$500,000  for  a  tele- 
scope for  the  university.  Considerably  over  $50,000,000  are  invested 
in  the  public  schools  of  Chicago. 

At  the  cor.  of  Harrison  and  Wood  Sts.  is  the  Cook  County 
Hospital.  Around  it  stand  the  Rush,  the  Homceopathic,  the  Physi- 
cians' and  Surgeons\  and  the  Wo7nan\s  Medical  Colleges,  and  the  great 
West  Side  High  and  the  Marquette  Schools.  The  Chicago  Mediccd  Col- 
lege has  a  large  structure  at  the  cor.  of  Prairie  Ave.  and  26th  St.  The 
Hahnemann  College  (homoeopathic)  is  at  the  cor.  of  Cottage  Grove  Ave. 
and  28th  St.  The  large  Woman''s  and  Children's  Hospital  is  at  Adams 
and  Paulina.  *  Mercy  Hospital  is  at  the  cor.  of  Calumet  Ave.  and 
26th  St.  Other  important  charitable  institutions  are  St.  Luke's,  1439 
Indiana  Ave.;  the  Home  for  the  Friendless,  911  Wabash  Ave.;  the 
Protestant  Orphan  Asylum,  cor.  Michigan  Ave.  and  2 2d  St. ;  and  St. 
Joseph's  (male)  and  St.  Mary's  (female)  Orphan  Asylums,  in  N.  State 
St.  cor.  Superior  St.  The  two  last  named  are  under  the  charge  of  the 
Sisters  of  Mercy.  The  Michael  Reese  Hospital,  29th  St.,  K  E.  cor. 
Groveland  Park  Ave.,  recently  erected,  is  maintained  by  the  United 
Hebrew  Relief  Association.  Other  institutions  are  the  Old  People's 
Home,  in  Indiana  Ave.,  the  Foundlings'  Home,  on  Wood  near  Madison 
St.,  and  the  Newsboys'  Home,  146  Quincy  St.  There  are  25  asylums  in 
the  city.  The*TJ.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  situated  at  Lake  Yiew,  a 
little  beyond  Lincoln  Park,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  costliest  in  the 
country.  It  is  built  of  Joliet  stone,  is  340  ft.  long,  and  cost  $3'71,132. 
The  Washingtonian  Home,  for  the  reformation  of  inebriates,  is  in 
W.  Madison  St.  There  are  not  less  than  150  charitable  estabhsh- 
ments. 

Chicago  has  a  system  of  six  exterior  parks,  joined  by  boulevards  200 
ft.  wide,  which  inclose  the  city  as  it  is  now  built.  These  give  33  miles 
of  drives,  besides  those  around  the  parks.  *  Lincoln  Park,  on  the 
lake-shore,  in  the  N.  Division,  contains  about  310  acres,  and  has  several 
miles  of  drives  and  walks,  fine  trees,  artificial  hills  and  mounds,  minia- 
ture lakes  and  streams,  summer-houses,  rustic  bridges,  shady  rambles, 
and  a  Zoologiccd  Garden.  From  the  N.  end  of  Lincoln  Park  a  boulevard, 
3-|-  miles  long,  extends  W.  to  Humboldt  Park,  which  contains  225  acres. 
About  2  miles  S.  of  Humboldt  Park,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
similar  boulevard,  is  Garfield  Park,  an  irregular  tract  of  land  nearly  a 
mile  long  from  N.  to  S.,  and  containing  185  acres,  the  middle  line  of 
which  lies  on  Madison  St.,  4  miles  from  the  Court-House.  From  this 
park  the  Douglas  Boulevard  runs  1^^-  mile  S.  E.  to  Douglas  Park,  which 
also  contains  180  acres.  From  this  another  boulevard  runs  S.  4|-  miles, 
thence  E.  4i  miles  to  the  two  South  Parks,  containing  1,055  acres, 
which  are  tastefully  laid  out.  The  most  southerly  extends  upward  of 
1^  mile  along  the  shore  of  the  lake.  Washington  Park,  S.  of  the  South 
Parks,  contains  the  Washington  Park  Race-Track.     Three  boulevards 


324  CHiCAG-o.  [Route  71. 

run  thence  to  the  streets  that  connect  with  the  business  portion  of  the 
city.  Douglas  Monument  is  in  a  small  park  on  the  lake-front,  the  statue 
at  35th  St. ;  the  vStatues  of  Grants  Lincoln^  Schiller^  Indian  Chiefs  are 
in  Lincoln  Park ;  Humboldt^  is  in  Humboldt  Park.  The  Drexel  fountain 
stands  at  the  end  of  Drexel  Boulevard.  Lake  Park,  on  the  S.  side,  run- 
ning about  1  mile  on  the  lake-shore,  is  ornamented  by  the  elegant  Michi- 
gan Ave.  residences.  The  Chicago  Base-Ball  Park,  on  the  W.  side, 
occupies  a  block  bounded  by  Congress,  Harrison,  Loomis,  and  Throop 
Sts.,  and  seats  8,000  spectators.  A  League  Ba^e-Ball  Park  at  35th  and 
Wentworth  Sts.  has  been  opened,  with  a  seating  capacity  for  12,000 
spectators.  There  are  several  beautiful  squai-es  and  minor  parks — 
Union,  Jefferson,  Yernon,  Ellis,  Washington,  and  Grovel  and. 

Of  the  cemeteries,  Graceland,  Rose-Hill,  and  Calvary,  in  the  North 
Div.,  ai-e  the  most  interesting.  The  last  two  are  on  the  line  of  the  Chicago 
&  Northwestern  and  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St  Paul  R.  Rs.,  and  funeral- 
trains  are  run  to  them  daily.  Oakviood,  on  the  Yincennes  road,  3  miles 
S,  of  the  city  limits,  is  a  pretty  rural  spot.  This  cemetery  can  be  reached 
by  Cottage  Grove  cable-line,  or  by  a  pleasant  drive  through  the  boule- 
vards. 

The  *  North  Water-Works  are  situated  on  the  lake-shore  (take 
N.  Clark  St.  cars  and  get  off  at  Chicago  Ave.),  and  may  be  freely  in- 
spected. They  should  not  be  missed  by  the  visitor.  They  comprise  a 
stone  water-tower,  160  ft.  high,  up  which  the  water  is  forced  by  4  engines, 
having  a  pumping  capacity  of  Y4, 500,000  gallons  daily,  and  flows  thence 
through  pipes  to  every  part  of  the  city.  A  very  fine  *  view  of  the  city, 
lake,  and  s\irrounding  -country  may  be  obtained  from  the  top  of  the 
tower,  which  is  reached  by  a  spiral  staircase.  Prom  this  tower  a  nearly 
cylindrical  brick  tunnel,  62  inches  high  and  60  wide,  extends  2  miles  under 
the  lake,  lying  66  to  YO  ft.  below  the  lake-surface.  The  water  enters  the 
tunnel  through  a  grated  cylinder,  inclosed  in  an  immense  crib,  on  which 
are  a  lighthouse  and  dwelling.  The  tunnel  was  begun  in  1864  and  fin- 
ished in  1866,  at  a  cost  of  $550,000.  Another  tunnel,  7  ft.  in  diameter, 
was  completed  in  1874,  at  a  cost  of  $957,622,  which  also  connects  with 
the  crib,  and,  through  independent  pumping-works,  supplies  the  S.  W. 
section  of  the  city.  A  new  lake-tunnel  lately  has  been  completed.  The 
"  in-take "  is  located  4  miles  from  the  shore,  and  there  are  2  great 
mains,  each  6  ft.  in  diameter.  Another  abundant  source  of  water-sup- 
ply has  been  developed  in  the  Artesian  Wells,  of  which  there  are  about 
40.  The  first  two  sunk  are  situated  at  the  intersection  of  Chicago  and 
Western  Aves.  (reached  by  W.  Randolph  St.  cars),  are  respectively  911 
and  694  ft.  deep,  and  flow  about  1,200,000  gallons  daily.  The  stock- 
yards, the  west-side  parks,  and  numerous  manufacturing  establishments 
are  supplied  from  artesian  wells. 

Intercourse  between  the  three  divisions  of  the  city  is  effected  by  45 
bridges,  which  span  the  riv^er  at  nearly  every  street,  and  swing  on 
central  pivots  to  permit  the  passage  of  vessels.  A  *  Tunnel  was 
constructed  in  1868  under  the  South  Branch  at  Washington  St.  It 
is  1,608  ft.  long,  with  a  descent  of  45  ft.,  has  a  double  roadway  for 
vehicles  and  a  separate  passage  for  pedestrians,  and  cost  $512,707, 


Route  71.]  CHICAGO.  325 

In  IS'TO  another  similar  tunnel,  ^ith  a  total  length  of  1,890  ft.,  includ- 
ing approaches,  was  constructed  under  the  main  river  on  the  line  of 
La  Salle  St.,  connecting  the  North  and  South  Divisions  (cost  nearlv 
S500,000). 

The  *  Union  Stock  Yards  on  S.  Halsted  St.,  where  the  vast  live- 
stock trade  of  the  city  is  transacted,  comprise  400  acres,  of  which  146 
are  in  pens,  and  have  32  miles  of  drainage,  20  miles  of  streets  and  alleys, 
2,300  gates,  and  cost  $4,000,000.  They  have  capacity  for  25,000  cattle, 
120,000  hogs,  15,000  sheep,  and  1,200  horses.  There  is  a  large  and 
handsome  brick  hotel  connected  with  the  yards;  also  2  banks,  and  a 
Board  of  Trade.  A  town  of  50,000  inhabitants  has  sprung  up  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  with  post-office,  telegraph-offices,  churches,  schools, 
etc.  Connected  therewith  are  the  Packing  and  Slaughtering  Houses^ 
whence  are  shipped  annually  10,000,000  lbs.  of  hog  products  alone. 

The  Grain-Elevators  are  a  very  interesting  feature,  and  should  be 
visited,  in  order  to  obtain  an  idea  of  the  manner  in  which  the  immense 
gi*ain-trade  of  Chicago  is  carried  on.  There  are  2Y  of  these  buildings, 
all  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  connected  with  the  railroads 
by  side-tracks.  They  have  an  aggregate  storage  capacity  of  28,6*75,000 
bushels,  and  receive  and  discharge  grain  with  almost  incredible  dis- 
patch. 

Note. — An  Appendix  will  be  found  at  the  close  of  this  volume,  in  which 
fuU  and  ample  descriptions  of  all  the  leading  features  of  the  great  Columbian 
World's  Fair  is  given. 

Chicago  has  the  World's  Fair,  which  celebrates  the  400th  anniver- 
sary of  the  discovery  of  America,  and  is  called  the  World's  Colum- 
bian Exposition.  The  Exposition  Buildings  were  dedicated  with 
imposing  ceremonies  on  October  21,  1892,  the  anniversary  of  Colum- 
bus's landing.  Preceded  by  a  grand  naval  review  in  New  York  Harbor 
in  April,  the  Exposition  opened  May  1,  1893;  it  closes  October  26th. 
An  Act  of  Congress,  approved  April  25,  189u,  gave  life  to  the  project; 
selected  Chicago  as  its  location ;  created  a  supervisory  body,  the  Na- 
tional Commission,  composed  of  eight  commissioners-at-large  and  two 
from  each  State  and  Territory  and  the  District  of  Columbia ;  defined 
its  powers  ;  .provided  for  the  formation  of  a  Board  of  Lady  Managers ; 
directed  the  President,  when  satisfied  that  a  suitable  site  was  pi*ovided, 
and  that  the  Chicago  Exposition  corporation  had  $10,000,000,  to  invite 
foreign  nations  to  participate ;  specified  that  foreign  articles  intended 
for  exhibition  should  be  admitted  free  of  duty ;  and  required  the  va- 
rious departments  of  the  Government  to  make  exhibits,  for  which 
$1,500,000  was  appropriated.  Subsequently  Congress  appropriated 
$2,500,000  in  support  of  the  enterprise. 

Connected  with  the  Exposition,  a  World's  Congress  Auxiliary  has 
been  organized  to  promote  the  holding  of  congresses,  at  which  shall 
be  discussed  arbitration,  peace,  art,  education,  sciences,  charities,  and 
other  subjects. 

The  following  departments,  based  on  an  approved  classification  of 
exhibits,  were  established :  A,  Agriculture,  Food  and  Food  Products, 
Farming  Machinery  and  Appliances ;  B,  Viticulture,  Horticulture,  and 


326  CHICAGO.  [Route  71. 

Floriculture ;  C,  Live-Stock,  Domestic  and  Wild  Animals ;  D,  Fish, 
Fisheries,  Fish  Products,  and  Apparatus  of  Fishing ;  E,  Mines,  Mining, 
and  Metallurgy ;  F,  Machinery ;  G,  Transportation  Exhibits — Railways, 
Vessels,  Vehicles  ;  H,  Manufactures ;  J,  Electricity  and  Electrical  Ap- 
pliances ;  K,  Fine  Arts — Pictorial,  Plastic,  and  Decorative;  L,  Liberal 
Arts — Education,  Engineering,  Public  Works,  Architecture,  Music,  and 
the  Drama  ;  M,  Ethnology,  Archaeology,  Progress  of  Labor  and  Inven- 
tion— Isolated  and  Collective  Exhibits ;  N,  Forestry  and  Forest  Prod- 
ucts ;  0,  Publicity  and  Promotion ;  P,  Foreign  Affairs. 

The  principal  Exposition  officials  are  as  follows:  Council  of  Ad- 
ministration, Harlow  N.  Higginbotham,  Chairman ;  George  V.  Massey, 
Charles  H.  Schwab,  J.  W.  St.  Clair,  A.  W.  Sawyer.  Director-General, 
George  R.  Davis.  National  Commission,  Thomas  W.  Palmer,  Presi- 
dent; J.  T.  Dickinson,  Secretary.  Lady  Managers,  Mrs.  Potter  Palmer, 
President ;  Mrs.  Susan  G.  Cooke,  Secretary.  Local  Directory,  Harlow 
N.  Higginbotham,  President ;  H.  0.  Edmonds,  Secretary.  World's  Con- 
gress Auxiliary,  C.  C.  Bonney,  President ;  Benjamin  Butterworth,  Sec- 
retary. Director  of  Works,  D.  H.  Burnham.  President  Board  of  Archi- 
tects, R.  M.  Hunt.  Secretary  of  Installation,  Joseph  Hirst.  Following 
are  the  chiefs  of  the  respective  departments :  Agriculture,  W.  I.  Bu- 
chanan. Horticulture,  J.  M.  Samuels ;  John  Thorp,  Assistant  Chief. 
Live  Stock,  W.  I.  Buchanan,  Acting  Chief.  Fish  and  Fisheries,  J.  W, 
Collins.  Mines  and  Mining,  F.  J.  V.  Skiff.  Machinery,  L.  W.  Robin- 
son. Transportation  Exhibits,  Willard  A.  Smith.  Fine  Arts,  Halsey 
C.  Ives ;  Charles  M.  Kurtz,  Assistant  Chief.  Liberal  Arts,  S.  H.  Pea- 
body.  Manufactures,  James  Allison;  Frank  B.  Williams,  Assistant 
Chief.  Electricity,  J.  P.  Barrett;  J.  Allen  Hornsby,  Assistant  Chief. 
Ethnology  and  Archseology,  F.  W.  Putnam.  Forestry,  W.  I.  Buchanan, 
Acting  Chief.  Foreign  Affairs,  Walker  Fearn.  Publicity  and  Promo- 
tion, M.  P.  Handy. 

The  Exposition  is  held  mainly  in  Jackson  Park  (which  embraces 
586  acres,  and  has  nearly  2  miles  frontage  on  Lake  Michigan),  Wash- 
ington Park,  SYl  acres,  a  mile  to  the  west,  and  Midway  Plaisance,  a 
strip  of  80  acres  connecting  the  two,  used  to  accommodate  the  over- 
flow. Thus  the  entire  site  embraces  1,037  acres.  The  Exposition  site 
is  within  the  city  limits,  1  miles  southeast  of  the  City  Hall.  Visitors 
are  able  to  reach  the  grounds  by  steam,  electric,  and  horse-railways, 
elevated  roads,  cable-cars,  an  extensive  omnibus  and  cab  service,  and 
steamboat  lines  on  the  lake. 

The  Exposition  buildings  are  magnificent  structures.  Those  erected 
by  the  Exposition  Company  are  designated  as  follows :  Administration, 
Electricity,  Agriculture,  Machinery,  Mines  and  Mining,  Fish  and  Fish- 
eries, Live-Stock,  Manufactures,  Horticulture,  Forestry,  Woman's  Build- 
ing, Fine  Arts,  Music  Hall,  and  Transportation,  including  depots.  Be- 
sides these,  the  company  has  constructed  ornamental  entrances,  a  pier, 
peristyle,  several  power-houses  and  annexes,  fountains,  and  other  addi- 
tional buildings.  It  estimates  its  expenditures  as  follows  :  On  grounds 
and  buildings,  $12,766,890;  for  administration,  $3,308,563;  for  oper- 
ating expenses,  May  to  October,  $1,550,000  ;  total,  |17,625,453. 


Route  7L]  CHICAGO.  327 

The  several  States  of  the  Union  made  appropriations,  and  have 
exhibits  of  their  resources  and  products.  Most  of  them  have  erected 
buildings  of  their  own,  which  partake  of  the  nature  of  club-houses. 

Foreign  nations  make  extensive  exhibits  at  Chicago.  England, 
France,  Germany,  Spain,  Russia,  Turkey,  Japan,  Mexico,  Persia,  China, 
Siam,  Jamaica,  Hayti,  Venezuela,  Ecuador,  Peru,  Chili,  Uruguay,  the 
Argentine  Republic,  Honduras,  Bolivia,  Nicaragua,  Costa  Rica,  Guate- 
mala, Colombia,  Salvador,  and  Brazil  are  well  represented. 

Notched  into  the  S.  territory  of  the  city  of  Chicago  is  the  unique  city  of 
*Pullnian,  the  beginning  and  gro\\i;h  of  which  iUustrate  an  important  phase 
in  methods  of  manufacturing  enterprise.  It  is  named  after  the  inventor  of 
the  "  Pullman  sleeping-cars.'"  A  few  years  ago  Mr.  George  M.  Pullman  bought 
3,000  acres  of  land  at  this  point,  at  a'cost  of  over  $1,000,000,  and  there  com- 
menced building  a  city  bearing  his  name.  He  has  erected  vast  shops  for  the 
manufacture  of  these 'cars,  putting  in  the  best  machinery  obtainable,  and  em- 
ploys nearly  14,000  workers  in  wood,  iron,  glass,  painting,  upholstering,  etc. 
The  city  is  laid  out,  graveled,  sewered,  etc.,  in  the  most  perfect  manner,  and 
the  public  buildings,  chiu'ches,  free  school-houses,  and  the  Florence  Hotel, 
are  models.  There  are  also  a  public  park,  a  free  public  library,  and  athletic 
grounds.  A  prominent  feature  is  the  admirable  and  tasteful  style  of  dwellings 
built  for  the  workmen.  Adjoining  Pullman  are  S.  Chicago  and  G-rand  Cross- 
ing, which  contain  rolling-mtUs,  iron  and  steel  mills,  and  many  of  the  larger 
manufactures. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions — each  to  occupy  a  day — have  been  pre- 
pared so  as  to  enable  the  visitor  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  in  as  short  a  space  of 
time  as  possible.  Naturally  the  great  World's  Fair  will  demand  longer  time 
than  any  other  feature,  and  hence  in  the  present  instance  the  itineraries  have 
been  condensed  to  the  shortest  space  possible,  giving  only  suggestions  of  what 
may  be  seen,  leaving  it  to  the  inclination  of  the  visitor  to  devote  more  time  to 
such  sights  as  shall  prove  most  congenial  to  his  tastes.    See  Appendix. 

1.  The  Business  Portion  of  Chicago. — Visit  the  Auditorium:  take 
elevator  to  top  of  observatory  tower  (Congress  St.  side,  adults,  25c. ;  chil- 
dren, 15c.),  and  from  this  point — 270  ft.  above  the  street — become  ac- 
quainted with  the  enormous  extent  of  Chicago.  This  view  should  give 
the  visitor  a  fair  idea  of  the  plan  of  the  city,  and  should  aid  him  to  fix 
in  his  mind  the  location  of  the  principal  points  of  interest.  On  a  clear 
day,  one  may  see  across  the  end  of  Lake  Michigan  to  Michigan  City. 
On  the  S.,  across  miles  of  streets,  and  over  the  acres  of  the  stock-yards, 
one  may  see  into  the  State  of  Indiana.  On  the  N.,  Evanston,  with  its 
University  buildings,  may  be  discerned  ;  and,  westward,  stretch  miles  on 
miles  of  brick  and  mortar,  with  bits  of  green  park  or  boulevard,  break- 
ing the  monotony  here  and  there.  Near  at  hand  are  acres  of  roofs, 
chimneys  belching  black  smoke,  and  tall,  tower-hke  structures  rising  on 
every  side.  With  a  good  glass  and  a  good  map  the  visitor  may  spend 
an  hour  here  very  profitably.  From  the  Auditorium  visit  the  Art 
Institute  (three  blocks  N.,  on  Michigan  Ave. ;  25c. ;  free  Saturdays  and 
Sundays).  Then  walk  out  Adams  St.,  and  take  a  look  up  Wabash 
Ave.  (one  block  W.  of  Michigan  Ave.),  mostly  devoted  to  wholesale 
business.  Afterward  walk  in  Adams  St.  to  Dearborn,  where  is  the 
Post-Office,  occupying  the  block  bounded  by  Adams  and  Jackson, 
Dearborn  and  Clark  Sts.     In  rear  of  the  Post-Office,  in  Jackson  St.,  is 


328  CHICAGO.  [Route  71. 

the  handsome  Union  League  Club  Building.  Continue  W.  on  Adams 
St.  to  La  Salle.  Enter  "  The  Rookery,"  S.  E.  cor.  Adams  and  La  Salle. 
See  the  rotunda.  Passing  out  to  La  Salle  St.,  a  few  steps  to  the  S.  is 
the  Board  of  Trade  Building.  The  gallery  of  the  "Exchange  Hall" 
should  be  visited  (free,  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m.).  Thence  back  to  Adams 
St.,  see  the  beautiful  "  Women's  Temple,"  La  Salle  St.,  near  Adams. 
Walk  E.  on  Adams  St.  to  Clark  St.,  and  ^N".  on  Clark  to  Washington. 
Here  are  City  Hall  and  Court-House.  Visit  Public  Library  in  the  City 
Hall  (La  Salle  St.  side).  Walk  E.  on  Washington  St.  to  Dearborn,  and 
N.  on  Dearborn  to  the  river.  Walk  E.  to  State  St.  Here  are  many 
of  the  most  interesting  retail  shops.  At  Randolph  St.  is  the  tall  Ma- 
sonic Temple.     Walk  S.  to  Congress  St.,  and  thence  to  hotel. 

2.  The  Southern  Residence  Region  and  Parks. — Drive  down  Michigan 
Ave.  to  33d  St. ;  thence,  by  the  Grand  Boulevard,  to  Washington  Park, 
and  through  69th  St.  to  Jackson  Park  (where  is  the  World's  Columbian 
Exposition).  Return  by  way  of  Drexel  Boulevard  to  39th  St.,  thence 
to  Grand  Boulevard  and  Michigan  Boulevard  and  Ave. 

3.  The  Northern  Residence  Region  and  Parks. — Drive  to  the  Rush 
St.  bridge,  and  across  to  Pine  St.  Thence  to  Water  Works  (fine  view 
from  tower).  See  the  great  pumping-engines.  Go  along  Lake  Shore 
Drive,  where  are  many  fine  residences,  to  Lincoln  Park.  At  extreme 
northern  end  of  Park,  on  Sheridan  Prive,  is  a  good  road-house.  Thence 
continue  up  Sheridan  Drive  to  Bryn  Mawr  Ave.,  and  go  W.  to  Rose 
HiU  Cemetery,  the  handsomest  of  Chicago's  burial-grounds.  Return 
by  way  of  any  avenue  E.  to  North  Clark  St.,  and  thence  to  Sulzer  St., 
Graceland  Cemetery.  Continue  down  North  Clark  St.  to  Diversey  St., 
and  E.  to  Lincoln  Park.  Visit  Zoological  Gardens.  Return  to  the 
center  of  the  city  via  Dearborn  Ave.  or  State  St. 

4.  Stock- Yards.,  Packing-Houses.,  and  ^'^  The  Crih!''' — Among  the  chief 
sights  of  Chicago  are  the  stock-yards  and  great  meat-packing  houses. 
Take  State  St.  cable-car  to  39th  St.  and  thence  Stock-yards  car  to  the 
yards.  Then  walk  along  main  road  through  yards.  Get  permit  at  office 
of  Armour,  Swift,  Morris  or  Cudahy,  who  will  send  boy  to  accompany 
you  and  exhibit  the  entire  process  of  slaughtering  animals,  and  convert- 
ing them  into  food  products.  The  visit  to  the  slaughtering  department 
is  not  recommended  to  persons  of  nervous  temperament.  The  above 
may  occupy  the  forenoon,  and  the  afternoon  may  be  devoted  to  a  visit  to 
"  The  Crib,"  out  in  the  lake,  whence  water  is  pumped  into  the  city 
water-mains.  Take  boat  at  Clark  St.  bridge  (fare  25c.).  The  Crib  is 
two  miles  out  in  the  lake,  E.  of  Chicago  Ave. 

The  foregoing  itineraries  will  enable  one  to  obtain  a  general  idea  of 
the  city  in  the  shortest  possible  time.  For  special  visits  to  the  various 
suburbs,  as  Evanston,  Lake  Forest,  etc.,  consult  the  various  railway 
time-tables.  The  Rose  Hill  and  Graceland  Cemeteries  may  be  visited  by 
the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul,  and  the  Northwestern  R.  R.,  and 
Lincoln  Park  may  be  visited  by  North  Clark  St.  cable-car^  or  by  boat 
from  the  Clark  St.  bridge. 


Route  72.]  NEW   YORK   TO   CINCINNATI.  329 

72,  New  York  to  Cincinnati  via  Buffalo  and  Cleveland. 

By  the  N.  Y.  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.  (Route  40),  or  the  Erie  R.  R. 
(Route  41),  or  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  (Route  42)  to  Buffalo  ;  thence  by  Lake 
Shore  R.  R.  (Route  67)  to  Cleveland  ;  and  from  Cleveland,  by  the  Cleveland. 
Columbus,  Cincinnati  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  The  average  time  from  New  York  to 
Cincinnati  is  about  30  hours,  but  the  "Southwestern  Limited"  of  the  N.  Y. 
Central  R.  R.  runs  through  in  22  hours.  Distances  :  New  York  to  Cleveland, 
(523  miles  ;  to  Crestline,  698  ;  to  Delaware,  737  (to  Columbus.  761)  ;  to  Spring- 
field, 787  ;  to  Dayton,  811  ;  to  Cincinnati,  867.  Through  trains  with  sleepers 
run  without  change  of  cars. 

The  portion  of  this  route  between  New  York  and  Cleveland  is  de- 
scribed in  Routes  66  and  67,  or,  if  the  Erie  R.  R.  be  taken,  in  Route  68. 
Leaving  Cleveland  by  the  C.  C.  C.  &  St.  L.  R.  R.  (better  known  as  the 
"Big  Four"),  the  train  passes  in  quick  succession  a  number  of  small 
towns,  vfhich  please  by  their  neatness  and  air  of  prosperity,  but  which 
do  not  require  special  mention.  Shelby  (6*7  miles  from  Cleveland,  690 
from  Xew  York)  is  a  busy  village  at  the  crossing  of  the  Lake  Erie  Div. 
of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (Route  70),  and  Crestline  (698  miles) 
is  at  the  intersection  of  the  Pennsylvania  System  (Route  69).  Galion 
(703  miles),  Gilead  (716  miles),  and  Cardington  (720  miles)  are  small 
villages.  Delaware  (737  miles ;  Hotel  Donovan,  St.  Charles)  is  a 
thriving  town  of  8,224  inhabitants,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Olen- 
tangy  River.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  rolling  ground,  and  is  neatly 
built.  In  1842  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  University  ^\?i$  founded  here,  and  the 
Ohio  Wesleyan  Female  College  in  1863.  Both  are  prosperous  institutions, 
and  the  former  has  a  library  of  13,000  volumes.  There  is  also  here  a 
medicinal  spring  which  is  much  resorted  to.  At  Delaware  a  branch-line  di- 
verges, and  runs  in  24  miles  to  Columbus  (see  Route  73).  Beyond  Dela- 
ware several  small  stations  are  passed,  and  in  50  miles  the  train  reaches 
Springfield  [The  Arcade,  Lagonda  House,  St.  James),  with  a  popula- 
tion of  31,895,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Lagonda  Creek  and  Mad 
River,  both  of  which  furnish  excellent  water-power,  which  is  utilized  in 
manufactures.  It  is  in  the  heart  of  one  of  the  most  populous  agricult- 
ural regions  in  the  Union,  and  has  a  large  trade  in  wheat,  flour,  Indian- 
corn,  and  other  produce.  The  city  is  well  laid  out  and  handsomely  built, 
with  six  large  public-school  buildings,  including  a  fine  edifice  for  the 
High-School,  several  costly  churches,  the  Coiirt-House,  two  Opera - 
Houses,  and  many  fine  residences.  The  Sprhigfield  Seminary  is  a  flour- 
ishing institution ;  and  Wittenberg  College  (Lutheran),  founded  in  1845,  has 
209  students  and  a  library  of  7,000  volumes.  The  Free -Warder  Library 
contains  15,000  volumes.  Springfield  has  an  extensive  reputation  for 
the  manufacture  of  agricultural  implements,  30,000  mowers  and  reapers 
being  produced  annually.  Six  lines  of  railway  intersect  here.  Twenty- 
four  miles  beyond  Springfield  the  train  reaches  Dayton  [Beckel  House, 
Phillips),  a  beautiful  city  of  61,220  inhal3itants,  on  the  Great  Miami 
River,  at  the  mouth  of  Mad  River.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  broad, 
well-shaded  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  lined  with 
tasteful  private  residences.  The  public  buildings  are  unusually  fine. 
The  *  Old  County  Court-House  is  an  imposing  white-marble  edifice,  127 


330  NEW   YOUK   TO   CINCmNATI.  {Route  73. 

ft.  long  by  62  ft.  wide.  The  New  County  Court-House,  connected  with 
the  old  by  corridors,  is  144  x  94  ft.,  built  of  limestone.  The  beautiful 
Soldiers'  Monument,  at  the  head  of  Main  St.,  was  erected  in  1884.  One 
of  the  market-houses,  400  ft.  long  and  paved  with  blocks  of  limestone, 
has  accommodations  for  the  municipal  offices  in  the  second  story. 
There  is  a  large  water-power  within  the  city  limits,  obtained  from  two 
hydraulic  canals,  and  Dayton  is  a  place  of  great  industrial  actinty.  It 
is  especially  noted  for  its  manufactures  of  agricultural  machinery,  steam- 
engines  and  boilers,  railroad-cars,  stoves,  paper,  and  hollow-ware,  which 
amount  annually  to  over  $20,000,000 ;  also  glucose,  paint,  and  shirt 
manufactories.  The  public  schools  are  of  a  high  character,  and  the 
Public  School  Library,  in  the  center  of  the  Public  Square,  contains 
20,000  volumes.  There  are  50  churches,  many  of  them  of  much  archi- 
tectural beauty.  The  principal  charitable  institutions  are  the  County 
Orphan  Asylum,  the  Widows'  Home,  and  the  Southern  Lunatic  Asylum. 
of  Ohio.  To  the  tourist  the  most  interesting  feature  of  Dayton  is  the 
*  Central  National  Soldiers''  Home,  situated  on  a  picturesque  elevation 
2  miles  from  the  city,  and  reached  by  horse-cars  and  two  lines  of  steam- 
cars.  The  Home  is  an  extensive  group  of  fine  buildings,  over  40  in 
number,  including  a  church,  built  of  white  limestone,  and  a  hospital. 
The  latter  is  of  red  brick,  with  freestone  facings  and  trimmings,  and 
accommodates  300  patients.  The  principal  other  buildings  are  a  brick 
dining-hall,  capable  of  seating  2,250  persons,  a  fine  library,  a  music-hall, 
billiard-room,  bowling-alley,  headquarters  building,  and  several  barracks 
for  the  men.  There  are  now  5,000  disabled  soldiers  in  the  Home. 
The  grounds  embrace  an  area  of  640  acres,  well  shaded  with  natural 
forest-trees,  and  are  handsomely  laid  out,  with  winding  avenues,  a  deer- 
park,  three  beautiful  artificial  lakes,  an  artificial  grotto,  hot-houses,  and 
flower-beds.  Between  Dayton  and  Cincinnati  there  are  no  stations  re- 
quiring mention,  except  Middletown,  but  the  country  en  route  is  fertile, 
populous,  and  pleasing.     Cincinnati  (see  Route  75). 

73.  New  York  to  Cincinnati  via  Philadelphia,  Pittsburg 
and  Columbus. 

By  the  "  Pan-Handle  Route,"  consisting  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  E.  to  Pitts- 
burg, and  the  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  from  Pittsburg  to 
Cincinnati.  Through  trains,  with  palace'  drawing-room  and  sleeping  cars  at- 
tached, run  through  without  change  of  cars  in  28  hours.  Distances  :  to  Phila- 
delphia, 90  miles  ;  to  Harrisburg,  195  ;  to  Pittsburgh,  444  :  to  Steubenville,  487  ; 
to  Newark,  604  ;  to  Columbus,  637  ;  to  Xenia,  692  ;  to  Cincinnati,  757. 

As  far  as  Pittsburg  (444  miles)  this  route  is  the  same  as  Route 
69.  Shortly  beyond  Pittsburg  the  train  enters  and  crosses  that  narrow 
arm  of  West  Virginia  (the  "  Pan-Handle  ")  which  is  thrust  up  between 
Pennsylvania  and  Ohio,  and  then  crosses  the  Ohio  River  into  the  State 
of  Ohio.  The  first  station  of  importance  in  Ohio  is  Steubenville 
{Imperial,  United  Stages  Hotel),  a  city  of  13,394  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  which  is  here  ij  mile  wide. 
The  city  is  well  laid  out  and  substantially  built,  is  surrounded  by  a  rich 
farming  and  stock-growing  country,  and  is  the  center  of  an  important 


Boute^S.]  NEW    YOEK   TO    CINCmNATI.  331 

trade.  There  are  also  a  number  of  foundries,  rolling-mills,  machine- 
shops,  flour-mills,  etc.  Abundance  of  excellent  coal  is  found  in  the 
neighborhood,  and  there  are  eight  shafts  within  the  city  limits.  The 
*  County  Court-Hoiise  is  the  finest  in  E.  Ohio,  and  there  are  several 
very  handsome  churches  and  school-buildings.  Among  the  educational 
institutions  are  an  academy  for  boys  and  a  noted  female  seminary,  the 
latter  delightfully  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  scenery  in 
the  vicinity  of  Steubenville  is  very  attractive.  Beyond  Steubenville  a 
number  of  small  towns  are  passed,  of  which  the  principal  is  Coshocton 
(568  miles),  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same  name,  picturesquely 
built  on  4  natural  terraces  rising  above  the  Muskingum  River.  The 
Ohio  Canal,  connecting  the  Ohio  River  with  Lake  Erie,  passes  through 
the  village  and  furnishes  a  good  water-power.  Breaden  (582  miles)  is 
another  busy  village  on  the  Muskingum  River,  and  22  miles  beyond  is 
Pfe'wark  {Fulton^  Wardeji)^  a  flourishing  city  of  some  14,270  inhabit- 
ants, situated  on  a  level  plain  at  the  confluence  of  three  branches  of 
the  Licking  River.  It  is  a  handsome  place,  the  streets  being  wide 
and  regular,  and  the  churches,  stores,  and  private  residences  well 
built.  The  surrounding  country  is  very  productive,  and  in  the  vicinity 
are  quarries  of  sandstone,  an  extensive  coal-mine,  and  several  coal-oil 
factories.  The  Ohio  Canal  passes  through  the  city.  The  next  impor- 
tant station  after  leaving  Newark  is 

Columbus. 

Hotels,  etc.  —The  leading  hotels  are  the  American  Rouse,  cor.  High  and 
State  Sts.;  the  Chittenden ;  Davidson's  {Eitroinan),  S.  of  Union  Depot;  Neil 
House,  cor.  High  and  Capitol  Sts.  ;  ParA;  Hotel,  cor.  High  and  Goodale  Sts.  ; 
and  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  cor.  High  and  Town  Sts..  These  hotels  charge  from  $2  to 
$3  a  day.  Street-cars  (fare,  5c.)  reach  aU  parts  of  the  city,  also  to  N.  Columbus, 
a  suburb,  6  miles  from  the  Capitol,  and  there  are  six  bridges  across  the  Scioto 
River. 

Columbus,  the  capital  of  Ohio,  and  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  the 
State,  is  situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Scioto  River,  100  miles  N.  E. 
of  Cincinnati.  It  was  laid  out  in  1812,  became  the  seat  of  the  State  gov- 
ernment in  1816,  and  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1834,  when  its  popu- 
lation was  less  than  4,000.  The  population,  according  to  the  census  of 
1880,  was  51,665,  and  in  1890  was  88,150.  The  commercial  interests 
of  the  city  are  large,  and  its  manufactures  numerous  and  important ; 
but  its  growth  and  wealth  are  chiefly  due  to  the  concentration  there 
of  the  State  institutions,  and  the  liberal  expenditure  of  public  money. 
The  streets  are  very  wide,  and  are  regularly  laid  out  in  squares. 
Broad  St.  is  120  ft.  wide  for  a  distance  of  more  than  2  miles,  having 
beautifully  laid  asphaltum  pavement.  It  has  a  double  avenue  (4  rows) 
of  trees,  alternate  maple  and  elm.  The  finest  residences  are  in  the  N. 
and  E.  portions  of  the  city.  The  business  thoroughfare  is  High  St., 
which  is  100  ft.  wide,  and  paved  with  the  asphalt  pavement  for  2  miles 
of  its  length,  and  the  other  4  miles  with  stone-block  pavement.  In  the 
center  of  the  city,  occupying  the  square  of  10  acres  between  High  and 
3d  and  Broad  and  State  Sts.,  is  *  Capitol  Square,  beautifully  laid  out. 
It  is  proposed  to  make  it  a  complete  arboretum  of  Ohio  trees. 


332  NEW   TOKK   TO   CINCmNATI.  [Eoute  73. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  Columbus  to  the  stranger  is  its 
public  buildings  and  institutions,  in  which  it  is  not  excelled  by  any  city 
in  the  United  States  except  Washington,  and  much  surpasses  most  of 
the  Western  capitals.  The  State  has  concentrated  here  nearly  all 
the  public  buildings  devoted  to  its  business,  benevolence,  or  justice. 
The  *  Capitol,  which  stands  in  Capitol  Square,  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  finest  in  the  United  States.  It  is  constructed  of  fine  gray  lime- 
stone, resembling  marble,  in  the  Doric  style  of  architecture,  of  which 
it  Is  a  noble  specimen.  It  is  304  ft.  long  and  184  ft.  wide,  and  is  sur-' 
mounted  by  a  dome  64  ft.  in  diameter  and  157  ft.  high.  The  interior 
is  elegantly  finished.  The  hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives  is  84 
ft.  long  by  '72-J  ft.  wide,  and  the  Senate  Chamber  is  56  by  72^  ft. 
There  are  also  i-ooms  for  all  the  State  officers,  besides  26  committee- 
rooms.  The  *  State  Penitentiary  is  another  very  striking  build- 
ing. It  is  of  hewn  limestone,  in  the  castellated  style,  and  with  its 
yards  and  shops  covers  30  acres  of  ground  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Scioto, 
just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Olentangy.  The  Central  Ohio  Lunatic 
Asylum  has  a  series  of  spacious  buildings  standing  amid  300  acres  of 
elevated  ground  W.  of  the  city.  The  buildings  are  in  the  Franco-Italian 
style,  and  have  a  capacity  for  1,000  patients.  The  Idiot  Asylum,  a  plain 
Gothic  structure,  occupies  grounds  123  acres  in  extent,  adjoining  those 
of  the  Lunatic  Asylum.  The  Blind  Asylum,  in  the  E.  part  of  the  city, 
on  the  grounds  of  the  old  one,  is  a  stone  structure,  in  the  Gothic  style  of 
the  Tudor  period.  The  *  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  centrally  located 
in  extensive  and  handsome  grounds  on  Town  St.,  cor.  Washington  Ave., 
is  built  in  the  Franco-Italian  style,  with  Mansard  roof.  The  building  is 
400  ft.  long  and  380  deep,  and  has  numerous  towers,  the  centi-al  one  of 
which  is  140  ft.  high.  The  *U.  S.  Barracks  is  located  in  the  midst 
of  spacious  grounds,  beautifully  wooded,  in  the  N.  E.  subui'b  of  the  city. 
It  comprises,  besides  an  immense  central  structure,  numerous  other  build- 
ings, used  for  offices,  quarters,  storehouses,  etc.  There  is  a  fine  drive  to 
the  Barracks,  and  beautiful  drives  are  laid  out  through  and  around  the 
grounds.  The  State  has  also  a  large  and  well-built  Arsenal.  The  City 
Hall,  facing  Capitol  Square  on  the  S.  side  of  State  St.,  is  a  handsome 
Gothic  structure,  187-1  ft.  by  80,  with  a  small  central  tower  138  ft.  high. 
The  Masonic  Cathedral  is  at  3d  and  Town  Sts.  The  High-School  is  in 
Broad  St.  The  Holly  Water-  Works  occupy  a  large  building  near  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Scioto  and  Olentangy  Rivers.  The  Odd-Felloios'  Hall,  in  High 
St.,  near  Rich  St.,  is  opposite  Opera-House  Block.  The  Union  Depot  is 
a  spacious  structure.  The  U.  S.  Government  has  erected  a  building,  cost- 
ing $300,000,  at  the  corner  of  3d  and  State  Sts.  A  Court-House,  cost- 
ing over  $500,000,  has  recently  been  completed.  The  Board  of  Trade 
Building,  a  fire-proof  building  of  stone,  is  in  E.  Broad  St.,  opposite  the 
State-House.  Northeast  of  the  city  are  the  Pan-Handle  shops  and 
round-house. 

There  are  more  than  50  churches  in  the  city,  and  some  are  fine  ex- 
amples of  Gothic  architecture.  Most  notable  among  them  are  Trinity 
Church  (Episcopal),  cor.  Broad  and  3d  Sts. ;  St.  Joseph'' s  Cathedral  (Roman 
Catholic),  cor,  Broad  and  5th  Sts. ;  the  Second  Presbyterian,  cor,  3d  and 


Route  73.]         isEW  tork  to  cmciKNATr.  833 

Chapel  Sts. ;  St.  PauVs  (German  Lutheran),  cor.  High  and  Mound  Sts. ; 
Broad  Street  (M.  E.  Church),  Broad  St.  and  Washington  Ave.,  built  of 
Pennsylvania  green-stone ;  Wesley  Chapel^  cor.  Broad  and  Third  Sts. ; 
and  the  Third  Avenue^  High  St.  and  3d  Ave.,  and  a  new  Welsh  church 
on  E.  Long  St.  The  State  Library^  in  the  Capitol,  contains  over  46,400 
volumes,  and  the  City  Library  20,000.  *  Starling  Medical  College 
is  at  the  cor.  of  State  and  6th  Sts.,  and  the  Columbus  Medical  College 
cor.  of  Long  and  Fourth  Sts.  Capital  University  (Lutheran)  is  a  building 
in  the  Italian  stvle,  in  the  E.  part  of  the  city.  The  female  seminary  of 
St.  Mary'^s  of  the  Springs  adjoins  the  city  on  the  E.,  and  near  by  is  the 
Water- Cure.  The  Ohio  State  University.^  endowed  with  the  Congres- 
sional land-grant,  was  opened  in  ISYS.  Of  the  charitable  institutions, 
the  Hare  Orphan^  Hojne.,  the  Hannah  Neil  Missimi,  and  the  Lying-ifi 
Hospital  may  be  mentioned.  The  Catholic  Asylum  for  the  reclama- 
tion of  fallen  women  is  W.  of  the  city,  and  the  Sisters  of  Mercy 
have  a  hospital  in  the  Starling  Medical  College  Building.  A  convent 
of  the  Sisters  of  the  Good  Shepherd  has  been  established  at  West 
Columbus. 

*  Goodale  Park,  presented  to  the  city  by  Dr.  Lincoln  Goodale, 
is  at  the  N.  end  of  the  city,  and  comprises  about  40  acres  of  native 
forest,  beautifully  improved.  City  Park,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  city,  is  of 
about  the  same  size  as  Goodale  Park,  and  resembles  it  in  many  respects. 
The  former  grounds  of  the  Franklin  County  Agricultural  Society,  83  acres 
in  extent,  are  on  the  E.  border  of  the  city,  and  have  been  made  a  public 
park,  known  as  Franklin  Park,  The  Ohio  State  Fair  Grounds, 
located  directly  N.  of  the  city,  comprise  100  acres.  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  the  gardens  of  the  Columbus  Hqrtictdtural  Society,  occupy- 
ing 10  acres.  Green  Laii^n  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  five  ceme- 
teries of  Columbus. 

Leaving  Columbus,  the  train  soon  reaches  London  (662  miles),  a  pretty 
town,  capital  of  Madison  County,  and  containing  a  fine  Union  school- 
house,  and  then  passes  on  in  30  miles  to  Xenia  {Commercial  and  St. 
George  Hotels),  a  city  of  7,301  inhabitants,  with  extensive  manufactures. 
The  streets  of  the  city  are  well  paved  and  beautifully  shaded,  and  there 
are  many  substantial  business-blocks  and  costly  residences.  The  chief 
public  buildings  are  the  Court-House,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  State,  in  a 
large  and  handsome  park  in  the  center  of  the  city ;  the  City  Hall,  con- 
taining a  fine  public  hall,  and  the  Jail.  It  is  known  as  the  center  of 
the  twine  and  cordage  manufacture  of  the  West,  having  three  large  and 
flourishing  factories,  employing  hundreds  of  hands,  and  running  day  and 
night  through  most  of  the  year.  There  are  also  paper-mills  of  some 
importance.  The  Public  Schools  are  in  fine  condition,  the  High  School 
ranking  among  the  best  in  the  State.  Wilberforce  Ufiiversity,  estab- 
lished in  1863,  for  the  higher  education  of  colored  youth  of  both  sexes,^ 
is  a  short  distance  outside  the  city  hmits,  and  has  a  library  of  4,000 
volumes.  The  Theological  Seminary  (Presbyterian)  dates  from  1*794, 
and  has  a  library  of  3,500  volumes.  The  Ohio  Soldiers''  and  Sailors'' 
Or/jhans^  Home  has  about  30  buildings,  accommodating  700  inmates, 


334  NEW   YORK   TO   CmOINNATI.  [Route  71^. 

surrounded  by  very  attractive  grounds  200  acres  in  extent.  The  coun- 
try between  Xenia  and  Cincinnati  is  undulating,  fertile,  and  highly 
cultivated,  but  presents  nothing  calling  for  special  mention.  Morrow 
(721  miles)  is  a  thriving  village  at  the  junction  with  the  Cmcinnati  & 
Muskingum  Valley  R.  R.,  and  Loveland  (734  miles)  is  at  the  crossing 
of  the  Baltimore  k  Ohio  Southwestern  R.  R.  Milford  (743  miles)  is  a 
flourishing  village  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Little  Miami  River, 
and  connected  with  the  R.  R.  station  by  a  bridge.  Cincinnati  (see 
Route  75). 

74.  New  York  to  Cincinnati  via  Erie  Eailway  and 
Connecting  Lines. 

By  the  Erie  R.  R.  and  the  New  York,  Pennsylvania  &  Ohio  R.  R. 
Through  traiiis,  with  palace  drawing-room  and  sleeping-cars  attached,  run 
through  on  this  route  without  change  of  cars  in  about  35  hours.  (The  Erie 
R.  R.  also  sells  through  tickets  to  Cincinnati  via  Buffalo  and  Cleveland,  as  ex- 
plained at  the  head  of  Route  72.)  Distances  :  to  Port  Jervis,  88  miles  ;  to  Sus- 
quehanna, 193  ;  to  Binghamton,  214  ;  to  Elmira,  273  ;  to  Hornellsnlle,  331  _;  to 
Salamanca,  413 ;  to  Meadville,  51.5 ;  to  Akron,  615;  to  Mansfield,  682  ;  to  Marion, 
717  ;  to  Urhana,  766  ;  to  Springfield,  781  ;  to  Dayton,  801  ;  to  Hamilton,  836  : 
to  Cincinnati,  861. 

As  far  as  Mansfield  (682  miles)  this  route  is  described  in  Route  68. 
Mansfield  (see  the  same)  is  at  the  junction  of  the  present  route  with 
Routes  68,  69,  and  70.  From  Mansfield  to  Dayton  the  Xew  York,  Penn- 
sylvania &  Ohio  R.  R.  closely  follows  the  Une  of  the  Cleveland,  Colum- 
bus, Cin.  k  St.  L.  R.  R.  (Route  72),  touching  the  same  places  at  frequent 
intervals.  Galion  (697  miles)  is  a  station  on  both  roads,  and  Marion 
i^Vl  miles)  is  a  prosperous  village  at  the  crossing  of  the  Indianapolis 
Div.  of  the  C.  C.  C.  k  St.  L.  R.  R.  Urbana  (766  miles)  ( Werner  and 
Sowles  Hotels)  is  a  city  of  3,51 1  inhabitants,  capital  of  Champaign  County. 
The  trade  with  the  suiTounding  country  is  large,  and  there  are  several  im- 
portant manufactories,  of^ which  the  chief  is  the  IT.  S.  Rolling-Stock  Co., 
which  employs  500  hands.  Urhana  Lhiiversity  (Swedenborgian)  v>'as 
founded  in  1851,  and  has  a  libraiy  of  5,000  volumes.  The  High-School 
building  cost  $90,000,  and  accommodates  400  pupils.  There  is  also  a 
free  public  library.  Springfield  (781  miles)  has  already  been  described 
in  Route  72,  and  Dayton  (801  miles)  in  the  same.  At  Dayton  the  train 
passes  on  to  the  track  of  the  Cincinnati,  Hamilton  &  Dayton  R.  R.,  and 
soon  reaches  Hamilton  {St.  Charles  and  St.  Clair  Hotels}^  a  city  of 
17,565  inhabitants,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Miami  River  and  on  the 
Miami  k  Erie  Canal.  Hamilton  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  and  populous 
district,  and  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures,  of  which  the  most 
important  are  machinery,  agricultural  implements,  paper,  woolen  goods, 
flour,  carriages  and  wagons,  boots  and  shoes,  etc.  Abundant  water- 
power  is  supplied  by  a  hydraulic  canal,  which  gives  a  fall  of  28  ft. 
There  are  a  number  of  handsome  churches  and  school-buildings  in  Ham- 
ilton, and  a  free  Public  Library. 


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Route  75.]  CINCINNATI.  335 


75.  Cincinnati. 

Hotels.— The  Grand  Hotel  is  cor.  4tli  St.  and  Central  Ave.  The  Burnei 
House,  cor.  3d  and  Vine  Sts.  The  Gibson  House,  Walnut  St.,  between  4th  and 
5th.  The  Palace  Hold,  cor.  6th  and  Vine  Sts.  The  St.  Clair  Hotel,  cor.  Mound 
and  6th  Sts.  Eates  at  these  hotels  are  from  $2.50  to  $4  a  day.  Other  good 
hotels  are  the  St.  James,  in  E.  4th  St.,  between  Main  and  Sycamore  ;  Bristol, 
cor.  6th  and  \yalnut  Sts.  ;  the  Bennison  Hotel,  5  N.  Main  St.  Eates  at  the  lat- 
ter-named houses  are  from  $2  to  $2.50  a  day.  Good  hotels  on  the  European 
plan  are  the  St.  Nicholas,  cor.  4th  and  Eace  Sts.,  and  the  Hotel  Emery,  in  Vine 
St..  between  4th  and  5th  Stg. 

Restaurants.— The  best  restaurants  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  are  the  St. 
Nicholas,  cor.  4th  and  Eace  Sts.  ;  the  Womari's  Exchange,  with  lunch-room  at- 
tached, cor.  Eace  and  Longworth  Sts. ;  the  Vienna  Bakery,  cor.  7th  and  Eace 
Sts. ;  Brock's,  in  Mound  St.  near  6th  ;  StewarVs,  in  Elm,  between  4th  and  5th, 
west  side  ;  and  the  Hotel  Emery,  in  the  Arcade.  The  Glencairn,  in  the  new 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  serves  lunch  from  11.30  to  3. 

Modes  of  Conveyance. — Horse,  electric,  and  cable  cars  (fare,  5c.)  run  to 
all  parts  of  the  city  and  suburbs,  and  to  Covington  and  Newport,  Ky.  Omnibuses 
run  from  all  the  stations  and  steamboat-landings  to  the  hotels  (fare,  25c.).  HacTcs 
are  in  waiting  at  the  depots  and  other  points  in  the  city.  Their  legal  rates 
are  :  For  1  person  to  any  point  within  the  city,  50c.  ;  3  or  more  persons,  50c. 
each  ;  large  baggage,  extra  ;  by  the  hour,  $1.50  for  the  first  hour  and  $1  for 
each  additional  hour.  A  Cincinnati  Cab  system  charges  25c.  a  trip  for  each 
passenger.  Eerries  to  Covington  from  foot  of  Central  Ave.  ;  to  Newport  from 
foot  of  Lawrence  St.  ;  to  Ludlow  from  foot  of  5th  St. 

Railroad  Stations.— The  station  of  the  Cincinnati,  Hamilton  &  Bayton 
R.  E.  is  at  the  cor.  of  5th  and  Hoadley  Sts.  The  Grand  Central  Station  is  cor. 
3d  St.  and  Central  Ave.  Here  are  the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  E.  E.,  the  Cincinnati 
Southern  E.  E.,  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Southwestern  E.  E.,  Kentucky  Central  E.  S., 
Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  E.  E.,  and  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio 
E.  E.  The  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  B.  R.  Station  is  cor. 
Kilgour  and  Front  Sts.  The  Louisville  &  Nashville  E.  E.  also  uses  this 
station. 

Theatres  and  Amusements.— Cincinnati  is  amply  supplied  with  places 
of  amusement :  The  Grand  Opera-House,  on  Vine,  between  5th  and  6th  Sts. ; 

f'avlin's  Theatre,  on  Central  Ave.  between  4th  and  5th  Sts.;  Pike's  Opera- 
ouse,  on  4th,  between  Walnut  and  Vine  Sts.  Heiick's  Opera-House,  on  Vine, 
between  12th  and  13th  Sts.  (''  over  the  Ehine  "),  has  a  seating  capacity  for  over 
2,000  people.  The  Springer  Music  Hall,  in  Elm  St.,  contains  one  of  the  largest 
organs  in  the  world.  It  has  a  seating  capacity  of  5,900.  Smith  and  Nixon's 
Hall  is  on  W.  4th  St.,  between  Main  and  Walnut  Sts.  Concerts  and  lectures  are 
given  at  College  Hall,  in  Walnut  St.,  near  4th  ;  at  the  Odeon,  in  Elm  St.,  near 
Springer  Music  Hall ;  at  the  Lyceiim,  buUt  for  the  College  of  Music,  near 
Music  Hall,  capacity  450  ;  and  at  Greenwood  Hall,  in  the  Mechanics'  Institute, 
cor.  6th  and  Vine  Sts.  The  large  German  Halls  "  over  the  Ehine  "  are  noticed 
fmther  on.  The  Gymnasium  has  commodious  quarters,  cor.  Vine  and  Long- 
worth  Sts.,  over  the  Grand  Opera-House  (open  from  8  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.).  The 
Floating  Bath  is  moored  at  the  foot  of  Vine  St.  (single  bath,  15c.).  A  favor- 
ite resort  outside  of  the  city  is  the  Zoological  Gardens,  N.  of  the  city  near 
Avondale.  The  buildings  are  substantial,  the  grounds  beautiful,  and  include 
66  acres,  and  the  collection  the  best  in  the  country.  Admission,  25c.  Eeached 
by  either  Main  St.  or  Elm  St.  cars,  via  inclined  planes,  or  Vine  St.  and  Syca- 
more St.  cable-cars.  The  city  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  substantially  paved 
cities  in  the  country.  Owing  to  the  number  of  cable  and  electric  lines  of  street- 
cars, her  beautiful  suburbs  have  developed  greatly.  The  tourist  will  find  the 
time  pleasantly  spent  in  taking  the  Walnut  Hills,  Sycamore,  and  Vine  St.  cable- 
cars,  and  Mt.  Auburn  electric  line  to  the  terminus  and  return  (fare,  5  cts.). 

Keading-Sooms.— In  the  leading  hotels  are  reading-rooms  for  the  use 
of  guests,  well  supplied  with  newspapers.  The  Public  Library,  in  Vine  St., 
between  6th  and  7th,  contains  197,484  books  and  pamphlets,  and  a  well-supplied 
reading-room  (open  from  8  A.  m.  to  10  p.  m.).  The  Young  lien's  Mercantile 
Library  is  in  the  2d  story  of  the  College  Building,  in  Walnut  St.  between  4th 


336  .    CINCINNATI.  [Route  73. 

and  5th,  and  contains  60,000  volumes.  The  Philosophical,  and  Historical  Society 
ha8  a  commodious  building,  at  115  W.  8th  St.,  and  its  library  numbers  12,600 
bound  volumes  and  48,000  pamphlets.  The  Lavj  Library,  in  "the  Coiirt-House, 
has  over  18,500  volumes.  The  Mechanics''  Institute  Library,  cor.  6th  and  Vine 
Sts.,  has  7.050  volumes,  and  a  readino--room. 

Clubs.— The  queen  City  Club,  cor.  of  7th  and  Elm  Sts.  The  Phmnix  Club, 
cor.  of  Central  Ave.  and  Court  St.  The  Allemania  Club,  cor.  of  4th  St.  and 
Central  Ave.  The  Cvvier  Ck(b  is  at  32  and  34  Longworth  St.  The  University 
Club,  cor.  of  4th  St.  and  Broadway,  i?  for  college-bred  men.  Political  Clubs  : 
Lincoln,  cor.  Garfield  Place  and  8th  St.  ;  Blaine  (Rep.),  66  W.  8th  St.,  near 
Vine ;  Ohio  (Dem.),  4th  St.  ;  Young  Men's  Democratic  Club,  56  W.  4th  St. ; 
Duckworth  (Dem.),  7th  St.  ;  Jefferson  (Dem.),  Vine  St.  Introduction  by  a 
member. 

Post-Ofiace. — The  general  Post-OflS.ce  is  in  5th  St.  bet.  Main  and  Walnut, 
and  is  open  from  6  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  There  are  also  sub-stations  in  diflterent  parts 
of  the  city,  and  letters  may  be  mailed  in  the  numerous  lamp-post  boxes. 

Cincinnati,  the  chief  city  of  Ohio,  is  situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Ohio  River,  in  lat.  39°  6'  N.  and  Ion.  84°  27'  W.  It  has  a  frontage  of 
10  miles  on  the  river,  and  extends  back  about  3  miles,  occupying  half 
of  a  valley  bisected  by  the  river,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  are  the 
cities  of  Covington  and  Newport,  Ky.  It  is  surrounded  by  hills  from 
400  to  465  ft.  in  height,  forming  one  of  the  most  beautiful  amphi- 
theatres on  the  continent,  from  whose  hilltops  may  be  seen  the  splendid 
panorama  of  the  cities  below^,  and  the  winding  Ohio.  Cincinnati  is 
principally  built  upon  two  terraces,  the  first  60  and  the  second  112  ft. 
above  the  river.  The  latter  has  been  graded  to  an  easy  slope,  termi- 
nating at  the  base  of  the  hills.  The  streets  are  laid  out  with  great 
regularity,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  are  broad  and  well  paved, 
and  for  the  most  part  beautifully  shaded.  The  business  portion  of  the 
city  is  compactly  built,  a  line  drab  freestone  being  the  material  chiefly 
used.  The  outer  highland  belt  of  the  city  is  beautified  by  costly  resi- 
dences which  stand  in  the  midst  of  extensive  and  neatly  adorned  grounds. 
Here  the  favorite  building  material  is  blue  limestone.  The  names  of 
the  suburbs  on  the  hilltops  are  CHfton,  Avondale,  Mt.  Auburn,  Price 
Hill,  and  Walnut  Hills. 

Cincinnati  was  settled  in  1788,  but  for  a  number  of  years  a  continual  series 
of  difficulties  with  the  Indians  retarded  the  progress  of  the  town.  In  1800  it 
had  grown  to  750  Inhabitants,  and  in  1814  it  was  incorporated  as  a  city.  About 
1830  the  Miami  Canal  was  built,  and  during  the  next  10  years  the  population  in- 
creased 85  per  cent.  In  1840  the  Little  Miami,  the  first  of  the  many  railroads 
now  centering  at  Cincinnati,  was  finished,  and  in  1850  the  population  had  in- 
,  creased  to  115.436,  in  1880  to  255,708,  and  in  1800  to  296,908,  exclusive  of  several 
populous  suburban  villages.  It  is  estimated  that  within  a  radius  of  15  miles  of 
the  city  there  is  a  population  of  500,000.  The  central  position  of  Cincinnati  has 
rendered  it  one  of  the  most  important  commercial  centers  of  the  West  ;  but 
manufactures  constitute  its  chief  interest. 

There  is  no  one  among  the  streets  of  Cincinnati  which  has  the  pre- 
eminence over  the  others.  Of  the  business  streets.  Pearl  St.,  which 
contains  nearly  all  the  wholesale  boot  and  shoe  and  dry-goods  houses, 
is  noted  for  its  splendid  row  of  lofty,  uniform  stone  fronts  between 
Vine  and  Race  Sts.  Tliird  St.,  between  Main  and  Vine,  contains  the 
banking,  brokerage,  and  insurance  offices.  Fourth  St.  is  the  fash- 
ionable promenade  and  most  select  retail-business  street,  and  is  lined 
with  handsome  buildings.     In  Pike  St.,  in  4th  St.  from  Pike  to  Broad- 


Route  75. 


CINCmNATI. 


337 


way,  and  in  Broadway  between  3d  and  5tli  Sts.,  are  the  finest  residences 
of  the  "East  End";  in  4:th  St.,  W.  of  Smith,  in  Bat/ton  St.,  and  in 
Court  St.,  between  Freeman  and  Baymiller  Sts.,  those  of  the  "  West 
End."  The  portion  of  Freemaii  St.  lying  along  the  Lincoln  Park  is  a 
favorite  promenade.     Pike  St.,  from  3d  to  5th,  along  the  old  Longworth 


homestead,  is  known  as  the  "  Lover's  Walk."  Along  Front  St.,  at  the 
foot  of  Main,  lies  the  Public  Landing,  an  open  area,  paved  with  bowlders, 
1,000  ft.  long  and  425  feet  wide.  There  are  many  beautiful  drives  in 
the  vicinity  of  Cincinnati.  One  of  the  most  attractive  is  that  from  the 
Brighton  House,  cor.  Central  Ave.  and  Freeman  St.,  to  Spring  Grove 
23 


338  CINCINNATI.  [Route  75. 

Cemetery,  and  thence  around  Clifton  and  Avondale,  returning  to  the  city 
by  way  of  Mount  Auburn.  This  drive  affords  fine  views  of  the  city  and 
surrounding  country. 

Of  the  public  Ijuildings,  the  finest  in  the  city  is  the  new  *U.  S. 
Government  Building,  occupying  the  square  bounded  by  Main  and 
Walnut  and  5th  and  Patterson  Sts.,  designed  to  accommodate  the  Custom- 
House,  Post-Office,  and  U.  S.  Courts.  It  is  of  granite,  m  the  Renais- 
sance style,  354  ft.  long  by  164  ft.  deep,  and  six  stories  high.  The 
Chamber  of  Commerce  is  at  4th  and  Yine  Sts.,  and  is  open  on  every 
business  day  from  1 1  a.  m.  to  2  p.  M.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  pieces  of 
architecture  in  the  city,  having  been  built  after  one  of  Henry  H.  Eich- 
ardson's  latest  designs.  The  ^County  Court-House^  in  Main,  between  N. 
and  S.  Court  St.,  was  destroyed  by  rioters  March  29,  1884;  the  new 
Court-House  is  on  the  site  of  the  one  destroyed ;  the  design  is  Roman- 
esque. With  the  County  Jail  in  its  rear,  it  occupies  an  entire  square. 
The  new  City  Buildings  occupy  the  entire  square  on  Plum  St.,  between 
8th  and  9th.  They  are  just  completed,  of  red  sandstone,  at  a  cost  of 
$1,200,000.  The  rooms  of  the  Board  of  Trade  are  in  the  new  Chamber 
of  Commerce  building.  The  *  Masonic  Temple,  cor.  3d  and  Walnut 
Sts.,  is  a  structure  in  the  Byzantine  style,  195  by  100  ft.,  with  2  towers 
140  ft.  and  a  spire  180  ft.  high.  The  Masonic  Scottish  Rite  Cathedral^ 
in  Broadway,  between  4th  and  5th  Sts.,  is  an  imposing  building.  The 
Odd-Fellows''  Hall  is  cor.  4th  and  Home  Sts.  A  magnificent  new  hall  is 
being  finished  at  the  cor.  of  Elm  and  Yth  Sts,  Fine  blocks  of  commer- 
cial buildings  may  be  found  in  Pearl,  3d,  4th,  Main,  Walnut,  and  Vine 
Sts.  The  Music  Hall  and  Exposition  Buildings^  in  Elm  St.,  fronting 
Washington  Park,  cover  3|-  acres,  and  have  7  acres'  space  for  exhibit- 
ing. A  part  of  the  Exposition  Buildings  is  the  ^Springer  Music 
Hall,  a  beautiful  building  in  the  modified  Gothic  style,  ITS  ft.  wide, 
293  ft.  deep,  and  150  ft.  high  from  the  sidewalk  to  the  pinnacles  of 
the  front  gable.  The  interior  decorations  are  extremely  rich,  and  the 
great  organ  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  In  the  vestibule  is  a 
statue  of  the  founder,  R.  R.  Springer,  by  Powers.  The  carving  on  the 
case  of  the  organ  is  worth  attention.  Adjoining  is  the  College  of  Mtisic, 
which  has  a  corps  of  50  professors,  and  an  average  of  850  students. 
Pikers  Building,  in  4th  St.,  between  Yine  and  Walnut,  is  a  very  im- 
posing structure.  It  is  of  sandstone,  in  the  EHzabethan  style,  and  the 
,  interior  is  elaborately  painted  and  frescoed.  The  Public  Library  build- 
ing, in  Yine  St.,  between  6th  and  'Zth,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  largest 
in  the  city.  It  is  of  stone  and  brick,  in  the  Romanesque  style,  is  fire- 
proof, and  will  afford  shelf-room  for  300,000  volumes.  The  library 
now  contains  197,484  volumes,  including  pamphlets,  and  a  well-supplied 
reading-room  (open  from  8  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.).  The  *  Emery  Arcade 
extends  from  Yine  to  Race  St.,  between  4th  and  5th,  a  distance  of  400 
ft.  The  roof  is  of  glass,  and  in  it  are  shops  of  various  kinds  The 
Rookioood  Pottery  on  Mount  Adams  is  famous  for  its  artistic  work,  and 
is  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  Cincinnati  Museum  Association,  Eden  Park,  exhibits  paint- 
ings, sculpture,  and  bric-d-brac,  at  their  magnificent  building,  erected 


Route  75.]  CINCINNATI.  339 

at  a  cost  of  over  1=350,000 ;  open  daily  (Sundays  from  1  to  5  p.  m.  dur- 
ing the  summer  months),  from  10  a.  M.  to  4  p.  m.  ;  admission,  25  cts. ; 
on  Sundays,  10c.  The  most  notable  work  of  art  in  the  city  is  the 
**  Tyler  Davidson  Fountain,  in  5th  St.,  between  Vine  and  Wal- 
nut. It  stands  on  a  free-stone  esplanade,  400  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  wide. 
In  the  center  of  a  porphyry-rimmed  basin  43  ft.  in  diameter  is  the  quatre- 
foil  Saxon  porphyry  base  supporting  the  bronze-work,  whose  base  is  12 
ft.  square  and  6  ft.  high,  with  infant  figures  at  each  corner  representing 
the  delights  of  children  in  water.  Bas-relief  figures  around  the  base 
represent  the  various  uses  of  water  to  mankind.  From  the  upper  part 
of  the  bronze  base  extend  four  great  basins,  and  from  the  center  rises  a 
column,  up  whose  sides  vines  ascend  and  branch  at  the  top  in  palm-hke 
frontage.  Around  this  column  are  groups  of  statuary ;  and  on  its  sum- 
mit stands  a  gigantic  female  figure,  with  outstretched  arms,  the  water 
raining  down  in  fine  spray  from  her  fingers.  The  work  was  cast  in 
Munich,  and  cost  nearly  $200,000.  It  plays  during  warm  days  from 
morning  till  midnight. 

The  finest  church  edifice  in  the  city  is  *  St.  Peter's  Cathedral 
(Roman  Catholic),  in  Plum  St.,  between  Yth  and  8th.  It  is  of  Dayton 
limestone,  in  pure  Gi-ecian  style,  200. by  80  ft.,  with  a  stone  spire  224 
ft.  high,  and  a  portico  supported  by  10  sandstone  columns.  The  altar, 
of  Carrara  marble,  was  made  in  Genoa ;  and  the  altar-piece,  "  St.  Peter 
Delivered,"  by  Murillo,  is  one  of  the  chief  glories  of  art  in  America.  St. 
Xavier  Church  (Roman  Catholic),  in  Sycamore  St.,  between  6th  and  Yth, 
is  an  exceptionally  fine  specimen  of  the  pointed  Gothic  style  of  architect- 
ure. St.  PauVs  (Episcopal),  cor.  Yth  and  Plum  Sts.,  is  of  stone  and  stuccoed 
brick,  in  the  Xorman  style,  notable  for  its  square  towers,  rough  ashlar 
gable,  and  deep  and  lofty  Norman  door,  and  has  fine  music.  *St, 
Paul's  (Methodist),  cor.  7th  and  Smith  Sts.,  of  blue  limestone,  in  cru- 
ciform style,  has  a  fine  interior,  and  a  spire  200  ft.  high.  The  First 
Presbyterian.,  in  4th  St.,  between  Main  and  Walnut,  is  noted  for 
its  huge  tower  surmounted  by  a  spire  2*70  ft.  high,  terminating  in  a' 
gilded  hand,  the  finger  pointing  upward.  The  Baptist  Church.,  in  9th 
St.,  between  Vine  and  Race,  is  a  handsome  building  with  massive  clock- 
tower.  The  First  Congregational  and  Unitarian.,  Reading  Road  above 
Oak.  Some  of  the  German  churches  "over  the  Rhine"  are  very  large, 
and  the  music  excellent.  The  *Hebre'\v  Synagogue,  in  Plum  St., 
opposite  the  Cathedral,  is  of  brick,  in  the  Moorish  style.  The  Hebrew 
Temple.,  cor.  8th  and  Mound  Sts.,  is  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  double 
spires. 

The  *  University  of  Cincinnati,  founded  and  endowed  by 
Charles  McMicken,  has  an  imposing  building  at  the  cor.  of  Hamilton 
Road  and  Elm  St.  The  Art  Academy  of  Cincinnati,  under  the  man- 
agement of  the  Cincinnati  Museum  Association,  occupies  a  spacious  and 
recently  constructed  building  near  the  Art  Museum  in  Eden  Park.  The 
instructors  and  lecturers  number  thirteen,  and  the  students  in  day  and 
night  classes  exceed  four  hundred.  Instruction  in  all  branches  of  art 
is  practically  free.  The  Laiu  School  is  in  Walnut  St.,  between  4th  and 
5th.     *St.  Xavier's  College  (Jesuit),  cor.  Sycamore  and  Yth  Sts.,  is 


340  cmciNNATi.  [Houte  75. 

a  splendid  building  in  the  Romanesque  style,  of  brick,  profusely  orna- 
mented with  stone.  The  Cincinnati  Wesleyan  College  has  a  spacious  and 
handsome  building  in  Wesley  Ave.,  between  Court  and  Clark  Sts.  The 
Seminary  of  Mount  St.  Mary^  is  a  famous  Roman  Catholic  college, 
beautifully  situated  on  Price  Hill,  which  commands  extensive  views. 
Lane  TJieological  Seminary  (Presbyterian)  is  situated  on  Walnut  Hills, 
and  possesses  a  library  of  16,200  volumes.  The  Medical  College  of 
Ohio  is  one  of  the  most  famous  in  the  West,  and  has  a  very  fine  build- 
ing in  6th  St.,  between  Vine  and  Race.  The  Miami  Medical  College^  in 
12th  St.,  near  the  Hospital,  is  another  famous  institution.  The  Frank- 
lin School.,  Walnut  Hills,  is  the  leading  classical  and  preparatory  school 
in  the  city.  The  HugheS  High  School,  in  5th  St.,  at  the  foot  of  Mound 
St.,  is  an  imposing  edifice  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  octagon  towers 
at  the  corners.  The  Woodwa^-d  High  School  is  an  ornate  building  in 
Franklin  St.,  between  Sycamore  and  Broadway.  The  Technical  School 
is  temporarily  in  the  N.  wing  of  Music  Hall.  The  Mechanics^  Institute 
is  a  commodious  building,  cor.  6th  and  Yine  Sts.,  containing  a  library 
of  7,050  volumes  and  a  reading-room. 

In  12th  St.,  between  Central  Ave.  and  Plum  St.,  occupying  a  square 
of  4  acres,  stands  the  *  Cincinnati  Hospital,  said  to  be  the  largest 
and  best-appointed  institution  of  its  kind  in  the  country.  It  consists  of 
eight  distinct  buildings  arranged  en  echelon  round  a  central  court,  and 
connected  by  corridors.  The  central  building,  through  which  is  the 
main  entrance,  is  surmounted  by  a  dome  and  spire  110  ft.  high.  The 
Good  Samaritan  Hospitcd  is  a  fine,  large,  red-brick  building,  situated  on 
a  grassy  hill  at  the  cor.  of  6th  and  Lock  Sts.  St.  Mary'' 8  Hospital.,  cor. 
Baymiller  and  Betts  Sts.,  is  also  a  fine  and  spacious  building.  The 
*Longview  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  at  Carthage,  10  miles  N.  of 
the  city,  is  of  brick,  in  the  Italian  style,  612  ft.  long  and  3  and  4  stories 
high.  Its  grounds  are  laid  out  in  beautiful  lawns,  walks,  and  parks, 
with  greenhouses.  There  are  no  bars  to  the  windows,  and  everything 
prison-like  is  avoided.  The  House  of  Refuge  is  situated  in  Mill  Creek 
Valley,  about  a  mile  N.  of  Brighton.  The  buildings  are  of  blue  lime- 
stone trimmed  with  white  Dayton  stone,  and  are  surrounded  by  6 
acres  of  ground.  The  City  Workhouse  is  near  the  House  of  Refuge. 
The  main  building  is  510  ft.  long,  and  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  edi- 
fices about  the  city.  The  Cincinnati  Orphan  Asylum  is  a  spacious 
brick  edifice  at  Mount  Auburn,  comprising  ample  grounds  which  com- 
mand extensive  views. 

The  chief  pubhc  park  of  Cincinnati  is  *  Eden  Park,  situated  on  a 
hill  in  the  E.  district,  and  commanding  magnificent  views  of  the  city, 
the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  and  the  surrounding  country.  It  contains  216 
acres,  beautifully  laid  out  and  adorned ;  and  in  it  are  the  two  city 
reservoirs,  which  look  like  natural  lakes.  Burnet  Woods,  on  a  hill  N. 
of  the  city,  contains  170  acres,  nearly  all  forest.  Lincoln  Park,  in 
Freeman  St.,  between  Betts  and  Hopkins,  contains  only  18  acres,  but 
is  admirably  adorned  and  finely  shaded.  Washington  Park,  one  of  the 
oldest  pleasure-grounds  in  the  city,  formerly  a  cemetery,  is  situated  in 
12th  St.,  between  Race  and  Elm  Sts,     It  comprises  10  acres.     Hop- 


Boute  'y5?[  cmcno-ATi.  341 

kins^s  Park  is  a  small  la\\Ti  with  shrubbery,  on  Mount  Auburn,  N.  of  the 
city.  *  Spring  Grove  Cemetery,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
West,  lies  5  miles  N.  W.  of  the  city,  in  the  valley  of  Mill  Creek,  and  is 
approached  by  an  attractive  avenue  100  ft.  wide.  It  contains  600  acres, 
well  wooded  and  picturesquely  laid  out,  and  many  fine  monuments. 
The  entrance-buildings  are  in  the  Norman-Gothic  style,  and  cost  $50,- 
000.  The  chief  attractions  are  the  Dexter  mausoleum,  representing  a 
Gothic  chapel,  and  a  *  bronze  statue  of  a  soldier,  cast  in  Munich, 
erected  in  1864  to  the  memory  of  the  Ohio  volunteers  who  died  dur- 
ing the  war. 

More  than  a  third  of  the  residents  of  Cincinnati  are  Germans  or  of 
Gei-man  parentage.  They  occupy  the  large  section  of  the  city  N.  of  the 
Miami  Canal,  which  they  have  named  "the  Rhine."  The  visitor  finds 
himself  in  an  entirely  different  country  "  over  the  Rhine^''  for  he  hears  no 
language  but  German,  and  many  of  the  signs  and  placards  are  in  German. 
The  business,  dwellings,  theatres,  halls,  chm^ches,  and  especially  the 
beer-gai'dens,  all  remind  the  European  tourist  of  Germany.  Strangers 
should  visit  the  Great  Arbeiter  and  Turner  Halls,  in  Walnut  St.,  Heuck's 
Opera  House,  cor.  Vine  and  13th  Sts.,  and  some  one  of  the  vast  beer- 
cellars,  which  can  be  found  almost  anywhere  "  over  the  Rhine."  The 
*  Suspension-Bridge  over  the  Ohio,  connecting  the  city  with  Cov- 
ington, Ky.,  is  the  pride  of  Cincinnati.  From  tower  to  tower  it  is 
1,057  ft.  long;  the  entire  length  is  2,252  ft.,  and  its  height  over  the 
water  100  ft.  The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railway  bridge  across  the 
Ohio  River,  a  magniiicent  piece  of  engineering,  is  built  on  the  principle 
of  the  parabolic  truss,  and  has  three  spans,  the  middle  span  550  feet 
long  (the  longest  truss-span  in  the  world)  and  90  feet  high  ;  the  other 
two  490  feet  long  and  80  feet  high  each.  The  total  length  is  5,716 
feet,  the  total  cost  of.  structure  and  approaches  $600,000,  and  the  time 
of  building  a  year  and  a  half,  the  first  train  having  passed  over  Decem- 
ber 25,  1888.  There  is  another  handsome  suspension-bridge  over  the 
Licking  River,  connecting  the  cities  of  Covington  and  Newport.  By 
taking  the  street-cars  at  Front  St.,  in  an  hour's  ride  one  may  cross  both 
these  bridges,  and  return  to  the  starting-point,  having  been  in  two 
States  and  three  cities,  and  having  crossed  two  navigable  rivers  and  a 
cantilever  bridge.  There  are  also  four  pier  railroad-bridges  across  the 
Ohio  at  Cincinnati,  connecting  Cincinnati  with  Newport,  Covington,  and 
Ludlow,  one  of  which  was  completed  in  1891.  The  Water  AYorku^  in 
E.  Front  St.,  not  far  from  the  station  on  Kilgour  St.,  are  well  worth  a 
visit.  There  are  8  pumping-engines  with  a  capacity  of  85,000,000 
gallons  a  day.  Well  worth  visiting  are  the  United  Railroads  Stock- 
Yards,  comprising  50  acres  on  Spring  Grove  Ave.,  with  accommo- 
dations for  25,000  hogs,  20,000  sheep,  and  5,000  cattle.  There  are 
four  Inclined  Planes,  leading  from  the  terrace  on  which  the  busi- 
ness portion  of  the  city  is  built  to  the  top  of  the  surrounding  hills. 
These  Hilltops  form  the  residential  portion  of  the  city,  and  abound 
with  elegant  homes  and  institutions.  No  one  should  miss  the  views 
from  Price  Hill  and  from  the  *  Lookout  House,  Mt.  Auburn  (reached 
bv  electric-cars  from  cor.  Main  and  5th  Sts.). 


342  CINCINNATI.  [Route  75. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions  have  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the  vis- 
itor can  readily  spend  more  time  as  special  features  crowd  upon  Lis  attention. 

1.  Visit  the  Arcade,  Vine  to  Race  Sts.,  between  4th  and  5th;  the 
Tyler  Davidson  Fountain,  in  5th  St.,  between  Vine  and  Walnut;  the 
Publid  Library,  Vine  St.,  between  6th  and  7th ;  the  new  City  Buildings, 
occupying  the  square  bounded  by  8th  and  9th  Sts.  and  Plum  St.  and 
Central  Ave. ;  St.  Peter's  Cathedral,  8th  St.,  opposite  the  City  Build- 
ings ;  Plum  St.  Temple  (Jewish),  opposite  St.  Peter's ;  the  City  Hos- 
pital, Central  Ave.  and  12th  St. ;  the  Exposition  Buildings  and  Music- 
Hail,  Elm  St.,  north  of  12th  St. ;  the  new  Court-House,  in  Main  St.,  be- 
tween North  and  South  Court  Sts.,  where  the  terrible  riots  of  1884 
occurred,  and  when  the  old  Court-House  was  burned;  the  Custom- 
House,  which  cost  the  Government  $6,000,000 ;  the  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce, which  is  best  visited  on  any  business-day  between  the  hours  of 
11a.  m.  and  2  p.  m.  This  day's  excursion  does  not  necessitate  the  use 
of  a  carriage  or  street-car. 

2.  Take  Covington  street-car  in  Vine  St.,  cross  the  Suspension  Bridge 
to  Covington ;  see  the  Covington  Custom-House ;  take  street-car  to  New- 
port, across  the  Licking  Suspension  Bridge,  and  return  to  Cincinnati  by 
way  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  Bridge,  or  by  the  Cantilever  Bridge.  At 
Fountain  Square  take  an  electric-car  to  Mt.  Adams,  where  the  Rook- 
wood  Pottery  is  located ;  and  after  a  visit  to  the  pottery,  continue  the 
electric-car  ride  to  the  Art  Museum  in  Eden  Park,  where  the  rest  of  the 
day  can  be  spent.  While  in  the  park,  see  the  reservoirs  and  the  stand- 
pipe,  just  completed. 

3.  Take  a  cable-car  ride  through  Walnut  Hills ;  a  cable-car  ride  to 
Avondale,  returning  from  that  suburb  on  the  electric  line;  a  ride  on 
Vine  St.  cable-road  through  Clifton,  where  an  hour  or  more  may  be 
spent  with  satisfaction  on  any  of  Clifton's  beautiful  avenues.  From  the 
car,  as  it  crosses  Clifton  Ave.,  see  the  Cincinnati  Crematory.  Each  one 
of  these  excursions  will  consume  an  hour  in  transit.  The  day  may  be 
wound  up  with  a  horse-car  ride  to  Price  Hill,  where  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  city  can  be  had. 

4.  A  forenoon  can  be  spent  at  the  Zoological  Garden,  reached  either 
by  the  Mt.  Auburn  electric-cars  or  by  the  Sycamore  St.  cable.  Pass 
the  afternoon  by  continuing  the  electric-car  ride  on  to  Carthage,  where 
Longview  Asylum  is  located. 

5.  Spring  Grove  Cemetery  is  regarded  as  among  the  most  beautiful 
specimens  of  landscape-gardening  in  the  world.  It  is  located  on  Spring 
Grove  Ave.,  and  can  be  reached  either  by  the  Colerain  Ave.  electric-cars 
or  by  a  steam-car  ride  either  on  the  Big  Four,  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio 
Southwestern,  or  Cincinnati,  Hamilton  &  Dayton  R.  Rs.  Carriages  are 
always  ready  in  the  cemetery  to  convey  a  visitor  through  (round-trip 
ticket,  15c.).  In  the  cemetery,  see  the  Dexter  Chapel  and  the  statue  of 
C.  W.  West,  the  donor  of  the  Art  Museum.  In  transit  on  the  Colerain 
Ave,  line  the  visitor  passes  the  Work-House  and  the  House  of  Refuge. 


Route  76.]  OTXCIXXATI    TO    LOUISVILLE.  343 

6.  Visit  College  Hill  by  the  College  Hill  R.  R.,  where  the  Sanitai-ium 
is  located.  While  in  this  suburb,  see  Belmont  College,  and  Clos^ernook, 
once  the  home  of  Alice  and  Phoebe  Carv. 

Y.  A  15-mile  ride  down  the  Big  Four  or  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
R.  R.  will  take  the  visitor  to  North  Bend,  the  home  of  President  William 
Henry  HaiTison,  where  he  is  now  buried.  Four  miles  farther  west,  on 
the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  R.  R.,  is  the  residence  of  John  Scott  Harrison, 
the  father  of  President  Benjamin  Harrison.  This  is  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Big  Miami  River,  near  which  is  located  a  prehistoric  fort,  in  which 
may  be  seen  two  Indian  mounds.  The  bastions  in  this  ancient  fortifica- 
tion are  as  distinctly  defined  as  if  built  yesterday. 

76.  Cincinnati  to  Louisville. 

Besides  the  routes  described  below,  LonisvDle  may  be  reached  from  Cincin- 
nati by  steamer  on  the  Ohio  Eiv^er.  There  are  several  steamers  daily,  and  in 
summer  the  trip  is  a  very  pleasant  one.  The  scenery  along  the  river  is  both 
varied  and  attractive  (see  Route  132). 

a.    Via  Lotcisville^  Cincinnati  &  Lexington  Div.  of  the  Louisville  <k 
Kashville  R.  R.     Distance,  110  miles. 

Leaving  Cincinnati  by  this  route,  the  train  at  once  crosses  the 
Ohio  River  on  a  long  and  lofty  pier-bridge  to  Newport,  a  very 
handsome  city  of  Kentucky,  with  a  population  of  24,918.  It  is  built 
on  an  elevated  plain  commanding  a  fine  view,  and  ornamented  and 
made  attractive  by  numerous  shade-trees.  In  the  city  and  its  suburbs 
are  a  large  number  of  fine  residences,  and  the  schools  are  noted  for 
their  excellence,  and  it  has  mercantile  and  manufacturing  interests  of 
importance.  As  already  mentioned  in  the  description  of  Cincinnati,  a 
graceful  suspension-bridge  across  the  Licking  River  connects  Newport 
with  Covington,  which  in  turn  is  connected  with  Cincinnati  by  a  sus- 
pension-bridge. Covington  is  a  city  of  37,321  inhabitants,  the  largest  in 
Kentucky  after  Louisville,  but  is  substantially  a  suburb  of  Cincinnati, 
whose  business-men  have  here  many  costly  residences.  It  is  built  upon 
a  beautiful  plain  several  miles  in  extent,  and  includes  within  its  cor- 
porate limits  over  1,350  acres.  The  combined  Court-House  and  City 
Hall  is  a  handsome  edifice ;  and  the  U.  8.  Post-  Office  and  Court  build- 
ing cost  $150,000.  There  are  a  public  library  and  several  flourishing 
educational  institutions.  The  Hospital  of  St.  Elizabeth  (Roman  Catho- 
lic) occupies  a  commodious  building,  with  ample  grounds  adorned  with 
shrubbery,  in  the  center  of  the  city,  and  has  a  foundling  asylum  con- 
nected with  it.  Beyond  Newport,  the  Louisville  train  crosses  the  Lick- 
ing River,  passes  in  rear  of  Covington,  and  traverses  a  rich  but  unin- 
teresting agricultural  region.  The  stations  passed  are  small.  From 
Walton  (21  miles)  stages  run  to  Williamstown,  and  at  Lagrange  (83 
miles)  a  branch  road  divei'ges  to  Frankfort  and  Lexington. 

h.    Via  Ohio  &  3fississippi  R  R.     Distance.,  130  miles. 
As  far  as  N.  Vernon  (72  miles)  this  route  is  described  in  Route  78. 
From  N.  Vernon  the  road  runs  W.  through  one  of  the  most  productive 


344  LOUISVILLE.  [Route  77. 

and  populous  sections  of  southern  Indiana,  which,  however,  offers  little 
to  attract.  Thence  the  Louisville  Div.  runs  due  S.  The  numerous  sta- 
tions en  roxite  ai^e  mostly  small  villages,  none  of  which  require  special 
mention.  At  New  Albany  (12Y  miles),  a  flourishing  city  of  21,059  in- 
habitants, the  train  crosses  the  Ohio  River  on  a  magnificent  bridge,  which 
is  described  in  connection  with  Louisville.  In  addition  to  the  routes  from 
New  York  via  Cincinnati,  Louisville  may  also  be  reached  via  Washington. 
From  the  latter-named  point  the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R.  connects  at 
Charlottesville,  Va.,  with  the  great  trunk-line  of  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio 
R.  R.  (see  Route  130),  which  runs  through  without  change  of  cars  to 
Louisville  and  Memphis. 

^  77.  Louisville. 

Hotels. — The  Gait  House  has  long  been  celebrated  as  one  of  the  best  hotels 
in  the  United  States.  The  LouisviUe  Hotel,  on  Main  St.,  between  6th  and  7th  ; 
Willard's,  on  Jefferson,  between  5th  and  6th  Sts. ;  and  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel, 
on  5th  St.,  between  Green  and  Walnut,  are  well-kept  houses.  Prices  are  from 
$2.50  to  $5  per  day. 

Modes  of  Conveyance. — The  street-car  system  is  excellent,  affording 
easy  access  to  all  parts  of  the  city  (fare,  5c.,  with  free  transfers).  The  charges 
for  carriages  are:  $1.50  for  the  first  hour,  and  $1  for  each  snbsequeut  hour; 
from  depots  and  steamboat-landings,  25c.  to  50c.  for  each  person.  There  are  two 
ferries,  one  to  Jeffersonville  from  the  foot  of  1st  St.,  and  one  to  New  Albany 
from  Portland  (foot  of  34th  St.). 

Kailroatl  Stations.— The  station  of  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  E.  JR.  is 
at  Broadway  and  10th  St.  It  was  completed  in  October,  1891 ,  and  is  one  of  the 
finest  stations  in  the  South.  It  is  also  used  by  the  Louisville.  New  Albany  & 
Chicago  E.  E.,  and  the  Pennsylvania  lines.  The  station  on  the  river,  between 
1st  and  2d  Sts.,  is  used  for  local  trains  between  LouisTille  and  Lexington,  and 
by  the  Louisville,  Harrocfs  Creek  <&  Westport  E.  E.  (narrow  gauge).  The  New- 
•poi't  News  <&  Mississip2n  Valley  E.  E.,  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  E.  E.,  the  Louis- 
ville, St.  Louis  &  Texas  E.  E.,  the  Ohio  <&  Mississippi  E.  E.,  and  the  Louis- 
ville Southern  E.  R.  now  enter  and  leave  ■  the  Union  Depot  on  river-front, 
between  7th  and  8th  Sts. ;  while  the  Louisville,  Evansville  &  St.  Lovis  E.  E. 
<air-line)  uses  the  station  at  the  cor.  of  Main  and  14th  Sts.  AH  the  trains  of 
the  Pennsylvania  lines  also  stop  here. 

Theatres  and  Amusements.— JLTacawJe^/'s  Theatre,  in  Walnut  St.  near 
4th,  is  the  most  fashionable  place  of  amusement,  and  is  fitted  up  in  handsome 
style.  The  Bijou  and  Llarris's  are  both  in  4th  St.,  between  Green  and  Wal- 
nut ;  Liederkranz  Hall,  Market  St.  near  2d,  and  Masonic  Temple  Theatre,  cor. 
Jefferson  and  4th  Sts.,  are  tastefid  and  commodious  buildings.  Phaenix  Park 
is  a  noted  German  resort,  with  concerts  in  summer. 

Reading-Kooms.— In  the  leading  hotels  are  reading-rooms,  provided  with 
newspapers,  etc.,  for  the  use  of  guests.  The  library  of  the  Polytechnic  Society 
of  Kentucky,  with  more  than  .50,000  volumes,  is  open  to  the  public  daily  from 
9  A.  M.  to  id  p.  M.;  and  the  reading-room  of  the  Society  is  open  to  strangers  on 
introduction.    The  Y.  M.  O.  A.  reading-room  is  open  to  members  and  strangers. 

Post-Office.— The  Post-Office  is  at  the  cor.  of  Green  and  3d  Sts.  It  is 
open  on  week  days  from  7  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  ;  on  Sundays  from  9  to  10  A.  m. 
Letters  may  also  be  mailed  in  the  lamp-post  boxes,  whence  they  are  collected 
several  times  a  day, 

Louisville,  the  chief  city  of  Kentucky,  and  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant in  the  country,  is  situated  at  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio,  400  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  130  miles  below  Cincinnati,  where  Beargrass 
Creek  enters  that  river.  Its  site  is  one  of  peculiar  excellence.  The  hills 
which  line  the  river  through  the  greater  part  of  its  course  recede  just 
above  the  city,  and  do  not  approach  it  again  for  more  than  20  miles, 


Route  77.]  LOTJisviLLE.  345 

leaving  an  almost  level  plain  about  6  miles  wide,  and  elevated  about  70 
ft.  above  low-water  mark.  The  Falls,  which  are  quite  picturesque,  may 
be  seen  from  the  town.  In  high  stages  of  the  water  they  disappear 
almost  entirely,  and  steamboats  pass  over  them ;  but  when  the  water  is 
low,  the  whole  width  of  the  river  has  the  appearance  of  a  great  many 
broken  cascades  of  foam  making  their  way  over  the  rapids.  To  obviate 
the  obstruction  to  navigation  caused  by  the  Falls,  a  canal,  2|-  miles  long, 
has  been  cut  around  them  to  a  place  called  Shippingport.  It  was  a 
work  of  vast  labor,  being  for  the  greater  part  of  its  course  cut  through 
the  solid  rock,  and  cost  nearly  $1,000,000.  The  widening  of  this  canal 
is  now  in  progress.  The  city  extends  about  8  miles  along  the  river  and 
about  4  miles  inland,  embracing  an  area  of  18  square  miles. 

The  first  settlement  of  Louisville  was  made  by  13  families,  who  accom- 
panied Colonel  Georo^e  Rogers  Clarke  on  his  expedition  down  the  Ohio  in  1778. 
The  town  was  established  in  1780,  and  called  Louisville,  in  honor  of  Louis  XVI 
of  France,  whose  troops  were  then  aiding  the  Americans  in  their  struggle  for 
independence.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1828,  when  its  population  was 
about  10,000.  In  1860  the  population  had  increased  to  68,033  ;  in  1870,  to  100,753  ; 
and  in  1890  was  161,129.  Louisville  is  the  largest  leaf-tobacco  market  in  the 
world,  and  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  the  most  important  markets  for  live-stock 
in  the  country.  Pork-packing  is  extensively  carried  on.  and  the  sugar-curing  of 
hams  is  a  special  feature  of  the  business.  Louisville  is  the  great  distributing 
market  for  the  fine  whiskies  made  by  the  Kentucky  distilleries.  The  manu- 
facture of  beer  has  also  become  a  very  important  interest.  Leather,  cement, 
agricultural  implements,  furniture,  and  iron  pipes  for  water  and  gas  mains,  are 
the  other  leading  manufactures. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  wide,  well-paved  streets,  and  large 
squares,  which  are  bisected  each  way  by  paved  alleys  20  ft,  wide.  The 
beauty  of  the  residences  is  a  notable  feature  of  the  city ;  most  of  them 
are  set  back  from  the  street,  leaving  lawns  in  front,  which  are  planted 
with  flowers  and  shrubbery,  and- the  streets  are  lined  with  shade-trees. 
The  business  portion  is  compactly  built,  and  contains  many  fine  edifices. 
Main^  Market^  Jefferson^  and  Fourth^  and  the  cross  streets  from  1st  to 
15th  inclusive  between  the  river  and  Walnut  St.,  are  the  principal  streets 
in  this  section. 

The  public  buildings  of  Louisville  are  not  fine  architecturally,  but 
are  of  a  solid  and  substantial  character.  The  *Court-House,  in 
Jeiferson  St.,  between  5th  and  6th,  is  a  large  limestone  structure,  with 
Doric  portico  and  columns,  and  cost  over  $1,000,000.  The  *  City 
Hall  is  the  most  ambitious  edifice  in  the  city,  and  is  much  admired. 
It  is  of  stone,  in  the  Composite  style,  with  a  square  clock-tower  at  one 
corner,  and  cost  $500,000.  The  Council-room  is  very  fine.  The  Cus- 
tom-House^ which  also  contains  the  Post-Office^  is  an  elaborate  stone 
building  recently  erected  at  the  corner  of  4th  and  Chestnut  Sts.  The 
Masonic  Temple,  cor.  4th  and  Green  Sts.,  is  a  handsome  structure, 
with  tasteful  interior  decorations.  The  Board  of  Trade  has  a  com- 
modious building  cor.  3d  and  Main  Sts.  The  *  building  of  the  Courier- 
Journal,  cor.  4th  and  Green  Sts.,  is  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  city. 

Of  the  church  edifices,  the  most  noteworthy  are  the  Warren  Memo- 
rial Church  (Presbyterian),  4th  Ave.  and  Broadway ;  Cathedral  (Roman 
Cathohc),  on  5th  St.  near  Walnut ;  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  on  2d  St., 


346  LOUISVILLE.  [Route  77. 

between  Green  and  Walnut ;  the  First  Presbyterian^  in  4th  near  York ; 
the  Calvary  (Episcopal),  in  4th  near  York;  the  Second  Presbyterian^ 
cor.  Broadway  and  2d ;  College  Street  Presbyterian.,  cor.  College  and  2d ; 
the  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitarian),  cor.  4th  and  York ;  the  Temple 
Adas  Israel.,  cor.  Broadway  and  6th ;  and  Broadway  Church  (Baptist), 
Broadway,  between  Brook  and  Floyd.  Among  the  charitable  institutions 
are  i\xQ  Masonic  Widoivs''  and  Orphans'  Home;  the  Church  Home  for 
females,  and  infirmary  for  the  sick  of  both  sexes,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$100,000,  and  the  gift  of  John  P.  Morton,  Esq. ;  the  John  N.  Norton 
Memorial  Infirmary.,  etc. 

The  *  Polytechnic  Society  of  Kentucky  occupies  a  commo- 
dious edifice  in  4th  Ave.  between  Green  and  Walnut  Sts.  The  library 
numbers  50,000  volumes,  and  is  opened  to  the  public ;  and  connected 
with  it  is  a  museum  and  natural-history  department,  with  100,000  speci- 
mens, and  an  art-gallery  with  a  small  but  choice  collection  of  paintings. 
The  Gerald  Troost  collection  of  minerals,  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
United  States,  is  included  in  it,  Louisville  being  the  center  of  one  of  the 
finest  fossihferous  regions  in  the  world,  there  are  numerous  private  col- 
lections, containing  many  excellent  specimens  elsewhere  rare.  The  Uni- 
versity of  Louisville.,  containing  law  and  medical  departments,  is  a  flour- 
ishing institution,  and  has  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  city,  at  the 
corner  of  9th  and  Chestnut  Sts.  The  Kentucky  School  of  Medicine 
and  Hospital  College  of  Medicine  (medical  department  of  The  Central 
University  of  Kentucky)  are  pi'osperous  institutions  of  learning.  Other 
important  institutions  are  the  Southern  Baptist  Theological  Seminary, 
Kentucky  College  of  Music  and  Art,  Louisville  Law  School,  Louisville 
Medical  College,  College  of  Dentistry,  School  of  Pharmacy  for  Women, 
and  Louisville  College  of  Pharmacy.  The  two  High  Schools  (male  and 
female)  are  large  and  handsome  brick  structures.  The  Colored  JVortncd 
School,  dedicated  in  1873,  is  one  of  the  finest  public-school  edifices 
designed  for  the  instruction  of  negroes  in  the  country.  The  entire 
public-school  system  for  colored  people  is  admirably  organized. 

The  *  State  Blind  School,  on  the  Lexington  Turnpike,  E.  of  the 
city,  is  a  massive  and  imposing  structure,  one  of  the  finest  of  its  kind  in 
the  Southwest.  In  the  same  building  is  the  American  Printing-House 
for  the  Blind,  established  in  1858,  and  endowed  by  Act  of  Congress  in 
1879  with  $250,000,  the  interest  of  which  is  to  be  used  in  manufactur- 
ing embossed  books  and  apparatus  for  all  the  schools  for  the  blind  in 
the  United  States.  The  Almshouse  is  a  large  building  in  the  midst  of 
ample  grounds  near  the  W.  limits  of  the  city  (reached  by  7th  St.). 
The  City  Hospital  is  a  plain  but  spacious  edifice  in  Preston  St.,  between 
Madison  and  Chestnut.  Other  important  charitable  institutions  are  the 
House  of  Refuge  for  Boys,  the  House  of  Refuge  for  Girls,  the  Eruptive 
Hospital,  and  the  St.  Vincent  Orphan  Asyhim  (Koman  Catholic),  in 
Jefferson  St.  near  Wenzell.  There  are  over  25  hospitals  and  asylums, 
all  well  conducted.  The  toi-nado  which  struck  the  city  on  March  29, 
1890,  wrecked  that  portion  lying  between  7th  and  18th,  Broadway  and 
Main  Sts.  So  much  energy  has  been  shown  in  rebuilding  that  the 
effects  of  the  disaster  are  nearly  obliterated. 


Route  77.]  LOUISYILLE.  847 

By  vote  of  the  citizens,  Aug.  4,  1890,  there  was  accepted  an  act 
of  the  Lesfislature  providing  for  the  establishment  of  a  system  of  parks 
in  and  adjacent  to  tlie  city.  Already  ground  for  thi-ee  such  parks  has 
been  purchased,  and  the  improvements  are  going  on  rapidly  under  the 
supervision  of  Frederick  Law  Olmsted.  Iroquois  Park  is  a  tract  of 
554  acres,  about  5  miles  S.  of  the  Court-House,  and  reached  by 
the  4th  Ave.  Electric  Line.  It  consists  mainly  of  one  great  lofty  hill, 
with  steep  slopes,  bearing  much  crowded,  well-grown  wood.  It  is 
rather  a  forest  than  a  park.  Cherokee  Park  is  situated  just  E.  of 
the  city  limits,  and  contains  more  than  250  acres.  Here  are  found 
superb  umbrageous  trees,  standing  singly  and  in  open  groups,  dis- 
tributed naturally  upon  a  gracefully  undulating  greensward,  in  higher 
perfectioa  than  is  yet  to  be  found  in  any  public  park  in  America. 
Shawnee  Park  is  a  much  smaller  piece  of  ground  in  the  extreme  W. 
portion  of  the  city,  along  the  river-bank,  and  affords  a  beautiful  pros- 
pect down  and  across  the  river  to  the  Indiana  knobs.  These  three 
parks,  differing  greatly  in  character,  will  give  to  Louisville  one  of  the 
most  complete  park  systems  of  any  American  city. 

Strangers  should  visit  *  Cave  Hill  Cemetery.  The  monument 
of  George  D.  Prentice,  the  poet,  journalist,  and  politician,  consists  of  a 
Grecian  canopy,  of  marble,  resting  on  four  columns,  with  an  urn  in  the 
center,  and  on  the  top  a  lyre.  •  The  cemetery  is  situated  just  E.  of  the 
city  limits,  contains  other  noteworthy  monuments,  and  has  appropriately 
ornamented  and  carefully  preserved  grounds.  Silver  Creek^  4  m.  below 
the  city,  on  the  Indiana  side,  is  a  beautiful,  rocky  stream,  and  a  favorite 
fishing  and  picnic  place  for  the  citizens.  RarrocVs  Creek,  8  ra.  up  the 
Ohio,  Piverside,  Crescent  Hill  Reservoir,  and  the  Water-  Works  Grounds, 
afford  pleasant  excursions.  The  Lexington  and  Bardstown  turnpikes 
afford  enjoyable  drives  through  a  picturesque  and  well-cultivated  coun- 
try. Jeffersonville,  a  flourishing  town  on  the  Indiana  shore,  opposite 
Louisville,  and  connected  with  it  by  ferry  and  bridge,  is  situated  on  an 
elevation  from  which  a  fine  view  of  Louisville  may  be  obtained.  The 
great  railroad-bridge  across  the  Ohio  at  this  point  is  5,219  ft.  long, 
divided  into  25  spans,  supported  by  24  stone  piers,  and  cost  $2,016,819. 
New  Albany,  opposite  the  W.  end  of  Louisville,  is  a  finely-situated 
and  handsomely-built  city  of  21,059  inhabitants,  with  wide  and  de- 
lightfully-shaded streets,  fine  churches  and  public  buildings,  and  hand- 
some private  residences.  The  trains  of  the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  R.  R. 
now  enter  from  the  north  by  the  bridge  connecting  New  Albany  with 
Louisville.  "  From  the  hills  back  of  Xew  Albany,"  says  Mr.  Edward 
King,  "  one  may  look  down  on  the  huge  extent  of  Louisville,  half  hidden 
beneath  the  foliage  which  surrounds  so  many  of  its  houses  ;  can  note 
the  steamers  slowly  winding  about  the  bends  in  the  Ohio."  Xew  Al- 
bany is  now  connected  with  Louisville  by  the  Kentucky  and  Indiana 
Bridge,  just  finished.  It  is  the  largest  system  of  cantilevers  in  the 
world,  and  cost  about  $2,000,000.     Total  length,  2,453  ft. 

The  Louisville,  Evansville  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  is  a  direct  line  between 
Louisville  and  St.  Louis  (2Y3  miles),  and  between  Louisville  and  Evans- 
ville (122  miles).     A  double  daily  line  of  through  vestibule  trains  are 


348  CmCESTNATI    TO    ST.    LOUIS.  [Boute  78. 

run  between  these  points.  Connection  is  raade  at  Louisville  with 
the  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R.  and  the  Queen  &  Crescent  System  for  all 
points  East  and  Southeast.  At  St.  Louis  direct  connection  is  made  in 
Union  Depot  with  all  diverging  lines.  Parlor  and  dining  cars  on  all 
day-trains,  and  sleeping-car  service  on  night-trains. 

78.  Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis. 

By  the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  R.  R.  Through  trains  from  Baltimore  to  St. 
Louis  via  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (Route  70)  run  on  this  line.  Close  connection 
is  made  with  the  trains  of  the  various  routes  from  New  York  to  Cincinnati. 
Another  way  of  reaching  St.  Louis  from  Cincinnati  is  by  steamer  on  the  Ohio 
River  and  Mississippi  River.  This  latter  is  a  pleasant  route  in  summer.  Sta- 
tions on  the  Ohio  &  Mississipin  R.  E. :  North  Bend,  15  miles  ;  Lawrenceburg, 
20  ;  Aurora,  24  ;  Osgood,  52  ;  Nebraska,  62  ;  N.  Vernon,  73  ;  Seymour,  87  ; 
Mitchell,  127  ;  Washington,  17-3  ;  Vincennes,  192  ;  Olney,  223  ;  Clay  City,  238  ; 
Xenia,  254  ;  Salem,  271  ;  Odin,  276  ;  Sandoval,  280  ;  Lebanon,  317  ;  Caseyville, 
331  ;  St.  Louis,  340. 

This  route  traverses  from  side  to  side  the  great  States  of  Indiana 
and  Illinois,  passing  through  an  extremely  rich  agricultural  country 
which  is  for  the  most  part  under  fine  cultivation.  The  numerous  towns 
and  villages  en  route  are  neat  and  attractive,  with  that  air  of  busy  pros- 
perity about  them  which  is  eminently  characteristic  of  the  West ;  but, 
like  the  stretches  of  country  between  them,  they  are  curiously  alike, 
and  few  present  any  features  requiring  special  notice.  For  25  miles 
after  leaving  Cincinnati  the  train  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  Ohio 
River.  North  Bend  (15  miles)  is  a  pretty  village  on  the  river,  noted  as 
the  residence  of  the  late  General  William  Henry  Harrison,  President  of 
the  United  States.  His  tomb,  a  modest  brick  structure,  stands  on  a  com- 
manding hill,  whence  there  is  a  fine  view,  including  portions  of  Ohio, 
Indiana,  and  Kentucky.  Three  miles  beyond  X.  Bend  the  train  crosses 
the  Great  Miami  River  and  enters  Indiana,  speedily  reaching  Lawrence- 
burg (20  miles),  a  city  of  4,284  inhabitants,  on  the  Ohio  River,  and  a 
station  of  the  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  (known 
as  the  "Big  Four  Route").  It  is  chiefly  a  manufacturing  town  (fur- 
niture, barrels,  stoves,  flour,  etc.),  and  is  the  county-seat.  Four  miles 
beyond  Lawrenceburg,  also  on  the  river,  is  the  beautiful  little  city  of 
Aurora  [Globe  House^  KirscJi  Hotel)^  with  3,929  inhabitants,  and  a 
large  trade  derived  from  the  rich  farming  country  of  which  it  is  the 
shipping  port.  A  number  of  small  stations  are  now  passed.  From  N. 
Vernon  (73  miles)  the  Louisville  branch  diverges  and  runs  S.  in  54  miles 
to  liOuisville  (Route  V^).  Seymour  (87  miles)  is  a  thriving  town  at 
the  intersection  of  the  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R. ; 
and  Mitchell  (127  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Louisville,  New  Albany 
&  Chicago  R.  R.  Washington  (173  miles)  is  a  small  town,  capital  of 
Daviess  County,  where  the  shops  of  the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  R.  R.  are 
located;  and  19  miles  beyond  is  Vincennes  {Grand  Hotel,  Laplante 
Hotel),  a  flourishing  city  of  8,853  inhabitants,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Wabash  River,  which  is  here  navigable  by  steamboats.  Vincennes  is 
the  oldest  town  in  the  State,  having  been  settled  by  the  French  Cana- 
dians, Avho  established  a  mission  here  in  1702,  and  a  few  years  later 


Route  79.]  NEW   YORK    TO    ST.    LOIIIS.  349 

built  a  fort.  It  became  the  capital  of  the  Territory  of  Indiana  upon  its 
organization  in  1800,  and  so  remained  until  1814.  The  surrounding 
country  is  fertile  and  abounds  in  coal,  and  the  city  enjoys  good  manu- 
facturing facilities.  The  leading  establishments  are  the  flouring-mills. 
The  public  schools  are  excellent,  and  there  are  10  churches  and  4  libra- 
ries. Vincennes  University^  chartered  in  1807,  is  now  conducted  as  a 
high-school. 

Leaving  Vincennes,  the  train  crosses  the  Wabash  River  and  enters 
the  State  of  Illinois,  passing  at  frequent  intervals  a  number  of  small 
stations.  Olney  (223  miles)  is  the  capital  of  Richland  County,  the 
general  character  of  which  is  suggested  by  its  name.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  prosperous  places  on  the  line  of  the  road,  and  has  a  population  of 
3,831.  Clay  City  (238  miles),  Xenia  (254  miles),  and  Salem  (271  miles) 
are  thriving  villages.  Odin  (276  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Chi- 
cago Branch  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  (Route  84),  and  Sandoval  (280 
miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Main  Line  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R. 
Sandoval  is  the  point  where  the  large  repair-shops  of  the  Ohio  &  Missis- 
sippi R.  R.  are  located.  Carlyle  (293  miles)  is  situated  on  the  Kaskaskia 
River,  on  the  margin  of  a  fine  prairie,  and  is  a  lumber-market  of  some 
importance,  logs  being  floated  to  this  point,  where  they  are  made  into 
lumber  and  sent  to  St.  Louis.  Lebanon  (317  miles)  is  a  beautifully- 
situated  and  well-built  place  of  3,682  inhabitants.  It  has  a  handsome 
Union  school- house,  and  is  the  seat  of  McKendree  College.  At  Casey- 
ville  (331  miles)  the  train  first  enters  the  great  American  Bottom,  or 
Valley  of  the  Mississippi.  The  village  is  built  just  at  the  foot  of  the 
bluff,  and  is  one  of  the  principal  points  from  which  St.  Louis  is  supplied 
with  coal,  the  bluffs  being  underlaid  for  many  miles  by  inexhaustible 
deposits.  At  E.  St.  Louis  (339  miles)  the  train  crosses  the  Mississippi 
on  the  splendid  bridge  which  is  described  in  connection  with  St.  Louis. 
St.  Louis  (see  Route  81). 

79.  New  York  to  St.  Louis  via  Cleveland  and 
Indianapolis. 

By  the  N.  Y.  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.  or  the  West  Shore  R.  R.,  and 
the  Lake  Shore  &  Michigan  Southern  R.  R.  (Route  65)  to  Cleveland ;  and  thence 
by  the  Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincinnati  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  (commonly  called  the 
"  Big  Four  ").  Through  trains,  with  drawing-room  and  sleeping  cars  attached, 
run  through  from  New  York  to  St.  Louis  on  the  N.  Y.  Central  route  in  38  hours. 
The  "Southwestern  Limited,"  composed  exclusively  of  palace-car  service, 
leaves  New  York  at  1.30  p.  m.,  arriving  at  St.  Louis  at  7.35  p.  m.  Distances  : 
New  York  to  Cleveland,  623  m.:  to  Crestline,  698  ;  to  Gallon,  703  ;  to  Bellefon- 
taine,  764  ;  to  Indianapolis,  906  :  to  Terre  Haute,  978  ;  to  Mattoon,  1,034  ;  to 
Alton  Junction,  1,146  ;  to  St.  Louis,  1,167. 

From  New  York  to  Cleveland  (623  miles)  this  route  is  described 
in  Route  6Y.  From  Cleveland  to  Galion  (703  miles)  it  is  described  in 
Route  74.    At  Galion  the  Indianapolis  Div.  of  the  C,  C,  C.  &  St.  L.  R.  R. 

diverges  from  the  main  line,  and  runs  nearly  due  W.  through  one  of  the 
richest  sections  of  Ohio.  Marion  (724  miles)  is  at  the  intersection  of  the 
New  York,  Lake  Erie  &  Western  R.  R.  (see  Route  74).    Bellefontaine  (764 


350  NEW   YORK   TO    ST.    LOriS.  [Route  79. 

miles)  is  a  flourishing  town  of  4,245  inhabitants,  so  named  from  the 
numerous  fine  springs  in  the  neighborhood.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  pro- 
ductive and  populous  agricultural  country,  and  has  a  large  trade.  There 
are  also  several  manufactories,  and  the  County  buildings  are  located 
here,  Belief ontaine  being  the  capital  of  Logan  County.  Sidney  (181 
miles)  is  a  neat  village,  built  upon  an  elevated  plateau  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Great  Miami  River,  which  affords  a  fine  water-power.  A  navi- 
gable feeder  of  the  Miami  Canal  also  passes  through  the  place.  In  the 
center  of  the  village  is  a  neat  public  square,  around  which  are  the  prin- 
cipal buildings,  tlyiion  (820  miles)  is  situated  directly  on  the  boundary- 
line,  and  is  partly  in  Ohio  and  partly  in  Indiana.  It  is  a  flourishing 
place,  and  an  important  railroad  center.  Winchester  (831  miles)  and 
Muncie  (858  miles)  are  pretty  towns.  Anderson  (870  miles)  is  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  a  high  blufi'  on  the  left  bank  of  White  River,  in  the 
midst  of  a  very  fertile  region.  A  few  miles  above  the  village  is  a  dam 
by  which  a  fall  of  34  ft.  is  obtained,  the  extensive  water-power  being 
used  in  numei-ous  manufacturing  establishments.  Pendleton  (878  miles) 
is  a  thriving  village  on  Fall  Creek,  Avhich  affords  a  good  water-power. 
In  the  vicinity  are  quarries  of  limestone.  Fortville  (886  miles)  is  a  small 
station,  20  miles  beyond  which  the  train  reaches 

ludianapolis. 

Hotels,  etc. — The  leading  hotels  are  the  Bates  House,  the  Denison,  the 
Gr-and  Hotel,  the  Spencer  House,  and  the  Union  Depot  Hotel.  The  Occidental, 
the  Broicning,  the  Brunsivick  Hotel,  the  Circle,  the  Circle  Park,  the  English, 
and  the  Sherman  House,  are  good.  Prices  are  from  $2  to  $.5  per  day.  Street- 
cars render  all  parts  of  the  city  easily  accessible,  and  there  are  nine  bridges 
across  the  river  (three  of  them  for  railroad  pm-poses).  The  Post- Office  is  at  the 
cor.  of  Pennsylvania  and  Market  Sts, 

Indianapolis,  the  capital  and  largest  city  of  Indiana,  is  situated  near 
the  center  of  the  State,  on  the  W.  fork  of  White  River,  110  miles  N.  W.  of 
Cincinnati,  and  195  miles  S.  E.  of  Chicago.  The  city  is  built,  in  the 
midst  of  a  fertile  plain,  chiefly  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  w^hich  is 
crossed  by  9  bridges.  The  streets  are  90  ft.  wide  (except  Washington 
St.,  which  has  a  width  of  120  ft.),  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles; 
but  there  are  four  long  avenues  radiating  from  a  central  square  (the 
Circle)  and  traversing  the  city  diagonally.  Indianapolis  was  first  settled 
in  1819,  became  the  seat  of  the  State  government  in  1825,  was  incor- 
poi-ated  in  1836,  and  received  a  city  charter  in  1847.  In  1891  it  re- 
ceived a  new  charter  prepared  by  representative  citizens,  whose  desire 
is  to  have  a  model  municipal  government.  In  1840  it  had  a  population 
of  only  2,692;  in  1850,  8,091;  in  1860,  18,611;  in  1870,  48,244;  in 
1880,  75,074;  and  in  1890,  105,436.  Its  trade  has  kept  pace  with  the 
growth  of  its  population,  and  its  manufactures  (more  than  1,000  in 
number  and  employing  over  25,000  hands)  are  varied  and  important, 
the  principal  industries  being  pork-packing  and  the  manufacture  of 
machinery,  agricultural  implements,  cars,  carriages,  furniture,  and  flour. 
More  than  18  completed  railways  converge  here,  making  it  one  of  the 
great  railway  centers  of  the  West. 


Route  79.]  K-EW   YORK   TO    ST.    LOUIS.  351 

Washington  St.  is  the  principal  retail  thoroughfare,  and  the  whole- 
sale business  houses  are  in  South  Meridian^  Pennsylvania.^  Illinois, 
Maryland,  and  Georgia  Sis.  The  most  prominent  public  building  is 
the  *  State-House,  completed  in  1887.  It  occupies  two  squares,  and 
cost  about  $2,000,000.  The  *  Court- House,  completed  in  1876, 
at  a  cost  of  $1,200,000,  is  an  imposing  structure.  The  State  Institute 
for  the  Blind,  in  North  St.,  between  Illinois  and  Meridian,  was  built  in 
1847,  at  a  cost  of  $300,000,  and  is  surrounded  by  8  acres  of  grounds. 
The  main  building  has  a  front  of  150  ft.,  and  is  five  stories  high,  con- 
sisting of  a  center  and  two  wings.  The  State  Lunatic  Asylums,  1-J  mile 
W.  of  the  city  limits,  is  a  fine  group  of  buildings,  surrounded  by  160 
acres  of  grounds,  a  portion  of  which  is  handsomely  laid  out  and  adorned. 
The  State  Institute  for  the  Deaf  and  Bumh,  just  E.  of  the  city  limits, 
was  erected  in  1848  at  a  cost  of  $220,000,  and  a  building  costing 
$200,000  was  added  later.  The  grounds  comprise  105  acres,  hand- 
somely laid  out  and  adorned  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  U.  S. 
Arsenal,  1  mile  E.  of  the  city,  is  a  handsome  building,  and  is  surrounded 
by  75  acres  of  grounds.  The  Union  Passenger  Depot  (in  Louisiana 
St.,  between  Meridian  and  Tennessee)  has  sheds  760  ft.  long,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  spacious  structures  of  the  kind  in  the  country.  Other 
prominent  public  buildings  are  the  Post- Office,  cor.  Pennsylvania  and 
Market  Sts.  ;  the  City  Hall ;  Tomlinson  Hcdl  (built  from  the  proceeds 
of  a  bequest  left  the  city  by  Isaac  H.  Tomlinson) ;  the  building  of  the 
Commercial  Club,  8  stories  high,  cor.  Meridian  and  Pearl  Sts.;  County 
Jail,  and  City  Prison  ;  the  Masonic  Hcdl,  cor.  Washington  and  Tennes- 
see Sts. ;  the  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  cor.  Washington  and  Pennsylvania 
Sts.  ;  and  the  Propylceum,  erected  by  the  women  of  the  city.  Of 
the  churches,  the  most  noteworthy  are  Christ  and  St.  PauVs,  Episco- 
pal ;  Meridiem  Street  and  Roberts  Park,  Methodist ;  First  and  Second, 
and  Tabernacle,  Presbyterian ;  First,  Baptist ;  Plymouth,  Congregational ; 
the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedrcd ;  and  the  Jewish  Synagogue.  The  But- 
ler University,  founded  in  1850,  occupies  a  handsome  building  4  miles 
E.  of  the  city;  it  admits  both  sexes,  and  has  a  library  of  5,000  vol- 
umes. The  State  Library  contains  15,000  volumes,  and  there  is  a  Free 
City  Library  with  40,000  volumes.  The  principal  charitable  institu- 
tions are  three  Asylums  for  Orphans,  the  German  Orphan  Asylum,  the 
State  Female  Reformatory  and  Asylum,  the  Catholic  Infirmary,  and  a 
City  Hospitcd.  Among  the  principal  manufacturing  industries  are  the 
Atlas  Engine-  Works,  the  Indianapolis  Car-  Works,  the  Brown-Ketcham 
Iron-  Works,  the  Nationcd  Malleable  Castings  Co.,  the  King  an  Pork- 
Packing  Houses,  the  Encaustic  Tile- Works,  the  Parry  Cart  Co.,  the 
Woodburn-Sctrven  Wheel-  Woi'ks,  the  Udell  Woodivare  Works,  the  Terra- 
cotta Wo7-ks,  the  JSfational  Caret-  Works,  the  Premier  Steel-  Works,  etc. 
The  Stock-  Yards  are  also  worth  notice. 

There  are  nine  public  parks  in  the  city,  viz. :  the  Circle,  in  the 
center,  containing  4  acres,  the  site  of  the  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Monu- 
ment, built  by  the  State  at  a  cost  of  $400,000,  and  a  statue  of  Oliver 
P.  Morton;  the  Military  Park,  18  acres;  Utiiversity  Park,  4  acres, 
with  a  statue  of  Vice-President  Schuyler  Colfax ;  the  Trotting  Park^ 


352  NEW  YOKK  TO  ST.  LOUIS.  [Route  79. 

with  a  course  of  one  mile,  86  acres ;  Garfield  Park,  S.  of  the  city,  about 
100  acres;  and  Woodruff  Place,  E.  of  the  city,  next  to  the  arsenal;  a 
park  in  the  N.  portion  of  the  city,  embracing  100  acres ;  Athletic  Parlc^ 
with  80  acres;  Fairview  Park,  160  acres,  a  beautiful  shaded  retreat 
along  the  river  and  canal,  N.  of  the  city  ;  and  the  State  Fair  Grounds, 
with  Exposition  Building,  containing  40  acres.  It  is  the  home  of  Presi- 
dent Benjamin  Harrison,  Greenlawn  Cemetery  is  within  the  city  limits, 
and  2  miles  N.  of  the  city  is  CroTi^n  Hill,  which  is  handsomely  laid 
out ;  and  the  Catholic  Cemetery  is  just  S.  of  the  city  limits. 


At  Indianapolis  the  train  takes  the  track  of  the  St.  Louis  Div.  to 
St.  Louis.  Danville  (20  miles  from  Indianapolis,  926  from  New 
York)  is  a  pretty  village,  with  county  buildings  which  cost  $180,000. 
Greencastle  (944  miles ;  reached  also  by  Vandalia  K.  K.)  is  a  little 
academic  city  of  4,390  inhabitants,  in  the  midst  of  a  farming  and 
stock-raising  region.  It  contains  a  Court-House,  a  Jail,  a  large  rolling- 
mill  and  nail-factory,  seven  public  schools,  including  a  High-School, 
and  several  churches.  The  Indiana  Ashury  University  (Methodist), 
founded  in  1835,  is  open  to  both  sexes,  and  has  nearly  500  students. 
The  Whitcomb  and  the  college  circulating  libraries  contain  9,000  vol- 
umes. There  is  also  in  the  city  a  flourishing  Presbyterian  female  col- 
lege. The  Vandalia  Line  to  St.  Louis  (see  Route  80)  touches  Green- 
castle, ana  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  present  line  to  Terre  Haute 
{National,  Terre  Haute  House).  Terre  Haute  is  a  city  of  30,217  in- 
habitants, on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Wabash  River,  which  is  here  spanned 
by  three  bridges.  It  contains  a  Market-House  and  City  Hall,  two  Opera- 
Houses,  tAvo  Orphan  Asylums,  a  new  high-school  building,  costing  1*75,- 
000,  ten  public-school  buildings,  several  private  schools,  and  Coates's 
Female  College,  and  24  churches.  The  State  Normal  School  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $230,000.  The  Rose  Polytechnic  School,  endowed 
with  $600,000,  and  Rose  Orphan  Home  with  $500,000,  were  founded 
by  Chauncey  Rose.  St.  Anthony'' s  Hospital  (the  building  given  by  H. 
Hulman)  is  conducted  by  the  Sisters  of  St.  Francis.  A  Court-House 
and  a  Federal  Building  are  now  erecting.  Terre  Haute  is  the  center 
of  trade  for  a  populous  region,  and  has  extensive  manufactures,  blast- 
furnaces, carriage  and  wagon  works,  machine-shops,  nail-works,  car- 
works,  rolling-mills,  woolen-mills,  etc.,  and  V  flour-mills  with  a  daily  ca- 
pacity of  3.300  barrels.  An  artesian  well,  2,000  ft.  deep,  is  celebrated 
for  its  medicinal  value,  Collett  Park,  named  for  its  donor,  is  a  hand- 
some woodland  of  25  acres,  at  the  city's  edge.  It  is  also  the  point  of 
intersection  of  9  railroad  lines,  and  the  Wabash  River  is  navigable  for 
steamboats  during  most  of  the  year.  From  this  point  the  passenger 
reaches  all  points  S.  by  the  Evansville  &  Terre  Haute  R.  R.,  connecting 
with  the  Louisvihe  &  Nashville  R.  R. ;  St.  Louis,  by  the  Vandalia  and 
"Big  Four"  Lines;  Chicago,  by  the  Chicago  &  Eastern  Illinois  R.  R. ; 
St.  Joseph  and  Michigan,  by  the  Vandalia  R.  R. ;  Cincinnati,  Washing- 
ton, and  New  York,  by  the  Vandalia  and  "Big  Four"  Lines;  and  South- 
ern  Indiana  by  the  Evansville  &  Terre  Haute  R,  R. 


Ptoute  80.]  NEW   YORK   TO    ST.    LOTTIS.  353 

Leaving  Terre  Haute,  the  train  crosses  the  Wabash  River  into  the 
State  of  Illinois,  passes  several  small  stations,  of  which  Paris  {291 
miles)  and  Charleston  (1,023  miles)  are  the  principal,  and  soon  reaches 
Mattoon  (1,034  miles),  one  of  the  principal  towns  between  Terre  Haute 
and  St.  Louis.  The  Chicago  Branch  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  (Route 
82)  crosses  here,  and  here  are  the  machine-shops,  round-house,  and  car- 
works  of  this  division  of  the  road.  Pana  (1,073  miles)  is  a  prosperous 
little  city  at  the  crossing  of  the  Xorthern  Div.  of  the  Illinois  Central 
R.  R.,  surrounded  by  a  rich  agricultural  region.  Litchfield  (1,112  miles) 
is  another  busy  little  city,  with  coal-mines  in  the  neighborhood.  There 
are  several  grain-elevators  here ;  and  besides  sev^eral  steam-mills  it  con- 
tains the  R.  R.  construction  and  repair  shops.  At  Bethalto  (1,142  miles) 
the  road  leaves  the  prairie  and  enters  the  "  American  Bottom,"  as  the 
strip  of  rich  alluvial  land  between  the  Mississippi  River  and  the  bluffs 
is  called ;  scattered  over  it  in  all  directions  are  numerous  lakes,  bayous, 
and  sloughs.  From  Alton  Junction  (1,146  miles)  a  branch  line  diverges 
to  Alton  (see  Route  85).  At  E.  St.  Louis  (I^IQQ  miles)  the  train  crosses 
the  Mississippi  on  the  noble  bridge  described  in  connection  with  St. 
Louis.     St«  liOUis  (see  Route  81). 

"Wabash  !Line. — Another  favorite  route  from  New  York  to  St.  Louis  is  via 
the  Wabash  Eailway,  which  runs  from  Detroit,  Mich.,  and  Toledo,  Ohio,  across 
northern  Ohio,  northern  Indiana,  and  central  Illinois,  to  St.  Loins.  Toledo  is 
reached  from  New  York  via  the  N.  Y.  Central  and  Michigan  Central  R.  R. 
(Route  67) ;  also  via  Erie  R.  R.  (Route  68).  Close  connection  is  made  at  Toledo, 
and  there  is  no  change  of  cars  between  New  York  and  St.  Louis.  At  Fort 
Wayne,  the  Wabash  R.  R.  connects  with  Route  68  from  New  York  ;  so  that 
the  "  Wabash  Line  "  may  be  combined  with  either  of  the  great  routes  from  the 
seaboard  to  the  far  West.  The  Wabash  R.  R.  runs  nearly  parallel  to  and  a  little 
N.  of  the  route  described  above,  and  through  a  very  similar  section  of  country. 
The  principal  cities  and  towns  on  the  line  are  Napoleon,  Defiance,  Fort  Wayne. 
Wabash,  Peru,  Logansport,  and  Lafayette,  in  Indiana  ;  and  Danville  and  De- 
catur, in  Illinois.  It  intersects  Route  79  at  Litchfield  (55  miles  from  St.  Louis). 
The  time  from  New  York  to  St.  Louis  by  the  "  Wabash  Line  "  is  .36  hours. 

80.  Hew  York  to  St.  Louis  via  Philadelphia,  Pittsburg, 
and  Indianapolis. 

By  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  the  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis 
R.  R.,  and  the  Terre  Haute  &  Indianapolis  R.  R.  This  is  commonly  called  the 
"Pan-Handle  Route"  and  "Vandalia  Line."  Through  trains,  with  palace 
drawing-room  and  sleeping  car  service  attached,  run  through  from  New  York  to 
St.  Louis,  without  change  of  cars,  in  about  31  hours.  Distances  :  to  Columbus, 
637  miles  :  to  Urbana.  684  ;  to  Piqua.  710  ;  to  Richmond,  757  ;  to  Indianapolis, 
825  ;  to  Terre  Haute,  898  ;  to  Vandalia,  996  ;  to  St.  Louis,  1,065. 

As  far  as  Columbus  (637  miles)  this  route  is  the  same  as  Route 
73.  Milford  (665  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Springfield  Branch 
of  the  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  (Route  73), 
and  Urbana  (684  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Sandusky  Div.  of 
the  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  and  St.  Louis  R.  R.  (Route  74). 
Urbana  is  described  in  Route  74.  Twenty-six  miles  beyond  Urbana  the 
train  reaches  Piqua,  a  city  of  9,090  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  Great  Miami  River,  just  at  a  bend  which  leaves  a  level  plateau 
between  the  city  and  the  water's  edge,  while  on  the  opposite  side  the  bank 


354  NEW   YORK  TO   ST.    LOUIS.  [Route  80. 

rises  boldly.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  wide  streets,  and  is  sub- 
stantially built.  The  surrounding  country  is  rich  in  agricultural  products. 
Water-power  is  supplied  by  the  Miami  Canal,  and  considerable  manu- 
facturing is  carried  on,  the  principal  establishments  being  car-shops, 
wooien-mills,  foundries,  etc.  At  Bradford  Junction  ('720  miles)  the  road 
branches  ;  one  division  running  N.  W.  to  Chicago  via  Logansport,  while 
the  present  route  continues  W.,  enters  Indiana  a  little  beyond  Greenville 
(721  miles),  and  soon  reaches  Richmond,  a  flourishing  city  of  16,608  in- 
habitants, situated  on  the  E.  fork  of  the  Whitewater  River,  in  the  cen- 
ter of  a.  fertile  agricultural  district,  from  which  it  derives  an  important 
trade.  It  has  an  abundant  water-power,  and  is  the  seat  of  numeroxis 
mills  and  factories,  the  chief  articles  of  manufacture  being  agricultural 
machinery  and  implements.  The  city  is  handsomely  built,  contains 
many  costly  residences,  and  has  two  theatres,  a  Public  Library  of  10,000 
volumes,  and  20  churches.  The  Quakers  form  a  large  element  in  the 
population  of  Richmond,  and  they  have  here  two  educational  institutions  : 
the  Frieyids'  Academy  and  Earlham  College^  which  was  founded  in  1859, 
admits  both  sexes,  and  has  a  library  of  3,500  volumes.  The  college 
buildings  are  about  -J  mile  W.  of  the  city.  In  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the 
city  are  Fair  Grounds.  Four  railroads  intersect  at  Richmond,  and  street- 
cars ti-averse  the  principal  streets.  Cambridge  City  ('7'72  miles)  and 
Knightstoion  (791  miles)  are  thriving  towns.  Near  the  latter  is  a  Sol- 
diers' Home,  for  the  disabled  soldiers  and  for  the  indigent  widows  and 
orphans  of  the  soldiers  from  Indiana  who  fell  in  the  civil  war.  The 
next  important  station  on  the  line  is  Indianapolis,  the  capital  of  In- 
diana, which  has  already  been  described  in  Route  '79. 

From  Indianapolis  to  Terre  Haute  the  present  route  and  Route 
79  run  close  beside  each  other,  touching  at  Greencastle  (see  Route  '79) 
"and  at  Terre  Haute  (see  Route  '79).  Between  Terre  Haute  and  St. 
Louis  the  present  route  makes  a  gain  in  distance  of  24  miles,  but  trav- 
erses a  newer  and  more  thinly  settled  region,  though  the  stations  along 
either  route  are  not  of  much  importance.  Effingham  (965  miles)  is  at 
the  intei'section  of  the  Chicago  Branch  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R. 
(Route  84).  It  is  situated  near  the  Little  Wabash  River,  and  has  con- 
siderable trade  and  manufactures,  with  a  population  of  about  3,260. 
Vayidalia  (996  miles)  is  a  town  of  2,144  inhabitants,  on  the  W.  bank  of 
the  Kaskaskia  River.  From  1818  to  1836  it  was  the  capital  of  Illinois, 
and  was  then  a  prosperous  place.  After  the  removal  of  the  capital 
to  Springfield  it  became  rapidly  decadent,  but  is  reviving  now  under 
its  railroad  advantages,  and  promises  to  become  an  important  manu- 
facturing center,  Greenville  (1,014  miles)  is  the  highest  point  on 
the  line  between  Terre  Haute  and  St.  Louis,  and  is  a  flourishing  town 
of  1,868  inhabitants,  on  the  E.  bank  of  Shoal  Creek,  To  the  S.  is  a 
fine  prairie.  Highland  (1,034  miles)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  town 
with  1,85'7  inhabitants,  mainly  Germans.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  and 
well  built.  Between  here  and  Collinsville  (1,052  miles)  are  numerous 
coal  mines,  whence  the  city  of  St.  Louis  derives  its  chief  supply.  At 
E.  St.  Louis  (1,062  miles)  the  train  crosses  the  Mississippi  on  the  mag- 
nificent bridge  which  is  described  in  connection  with  St,  Louis. 


W^^'km/"'" 


Route  81.]  ST.   LOUIS.  355 


81.  St.  Louis. 

Hotels.— The  Southern  Hotel,  between  Walnut  and  Elm  and  4th  and  5th 
Sts.;  the  Lindell  Hotel.,  cor.  Washington  Ave.  and  6th  St.;  the  Laclede,  cor. 
6th  and  Chestnut  Sts.;  Hotel  Richelieu,  cor.  Washington  Ave.  and  14th  St.; 
and  St.  James.,  cor.  Broadway  and  Walnut  St.,  are  among  the  best  hotels. 
Hotel  Moser,  in  Pine,  between  8th  and  9th  Sts. ;  the  Belvedere  Hotel,  cor.  AVash- 
ington  Ave.  and  13th  St.,  are  on  the  European  plan.  The  rates  are  from  $2  to 
%h  a  day.  Other  very  comfortable  and  well-kept  houses,  on  a  smaller  scale, 
are  HirrsVs,  Broadway  and  Chestnut  St.,  and  Hotel  Bozler,  13th  and  Olive  Sts., 
on  the  European  plan  (rooms,  $1  to  $1.50  a  day).  The  Hotel  Beers  (private), 
cor.  Grand  Ave.  and  Olive  St.,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  architecture,  and  has  an 
excellent  restaurant ;  while  on  the  opposite  corner  is  the  Grand  Avenue  Hotel, 
a  family  hotel.  The  West  End  Hotel,  on  the  cor.  of  Vandeventer  and  Bell  Aves., 
is  a  new  and  desirable  family  hotel. 

Restaurants. — Fausfs,  cor.  South  Broadway  and  Elm,  has  a  high  repu- 
tation. Moser's  Restaurant,  811-813  Pine,  is  the  largest  restaurant  in  the  city, 
having  a  capacity  for  serving  350  persons  at  one  tmie.  Numerous  other  res- 
taurants of  lesser  note  are  to  be  found  in  all  parts  of  the  city. 

Modes  of  Conveyance. — Electric  or  cable  cars  traverse  the  city  in  every 
direction,  and  render  all  parts  accessible  (5c.) ;  all  lines  start  within  a  radius 
of  5  blocks  from  Broadway  and  Olive  St.  The  cars  on  5th  St.  run  nearly  the 
entu'e  length  of  the  city  from  N.  to  S.  ;  those  on  Market,  Pine,  Olive,  Locust, 
Washington  Axe.  and  Franklin  Ave.,  run  E-  and  W.  Carriages  are  in  waiting 
at  the  depots  and  steamboat-landings,  and  at  stands  in  diHerent  parts  of  the 
city.  The  rates  established  by  law  are  :  For  conveying  1  or  more  persons  a  dis- 
tance of  1  m.  or  less,  $1  ;  more  than  1  m.  and  less  than  2  m.,  $1.50,  and  50c.  for 
each  additional  mUe.  By  the  hour,  $2  for  the  first  hour,  and  $1..50  for  each 
additional  hour.  In  case  of  disagreement  as  to  distance  or  fare,  call  a  police- 
man, or  complain  at  the  City  Hall.  Ferries  run  to  East  St.  Louis,  HI.,  from  the 
foot  of  A^.  Market  St.,  Carr  St.,  Spruce  St.,  Poplar  St.,  Sidney  St.,  and  Datis 
St.;  also,  electric-cars  run  across  the  St.  Louis  Bridge. 

Kailroad  Stations. — All  passenger  trains  run  mto  the  Union  Station  in 
Poplar  St.,  between  11th  and  12th  Sts.  (accessible  by  the  Pine  St.  cars),  except 
some  suburban  trains  on  the  Wabash  R.  R.,  which  use  the  station  at  the  foot 
of  Vine  St.,  and  those  of  the  Iron  Mountain  R.  R.,  which  use  the  station  at 
the  cor.  of  4th.  St.  and  Chouteau  Ave.  A  very  large  and  handsome  Union 
Station  is  now  being  erected  in  Market  St.,  from  18th  to  20th  Sts.,  which  will 
replace  the  present  one  at  12th  and  Poplar  Sts.  (to  be  finished  in  1894). 

Theatres  and  Amusenaents.— All  places  of  amusement  are  usually  open 
on  Sunday.  The  Olympic,  cor.  South  Broadway  and  Walnut ;  Grand  Opera- 
House,  Market,  between  Broadway  and  6th  ;  Folk's,  cor.  9th  and  Olive,  and  the 
Hagan,  10th  and  Pine  Sts.,  are  the  leading  theatres ;  all  of  them  Lave  large 
stages  and  beautiful  interiors.  The  Standard,  cor.  7th  and  Walnut,  and  Hav- 
lin's,  cor.  6th  and  Walnut,  afford  fii-st-class  attractions  at  a  lesser  price.  A  new 
German  theatre  has  just  been  erected  at  13th  and  Locust  Sts.  The  London,  cor. 
4th  and  Walnut,  is  devoted  to  good  variety  shows.  The  PicktvicJc  is  a  beautiful 
little  theatre  at  the  West  End  (2609  Washington  Ave.).  Uhrig's  Cave,  cor.  Wash- 
ington and  Jefferson  Aves.,  is  a  summer  theatre,  where  light  operas  are  given. 
There  are  numerous  German  beer-gardens.  Schnaider's,  Choteau  and  Missis- 
sippi Aves.,  the  leading  one,  is  a  favorite  summer-evening  resort  for  many  of 
the  best  people  in  the  city.  During  the  summer  months  instrumental  concerts, 
by  the  best  bands  in  the  country,  and  comic  operas  are  given  nightly.  Sports- 
mans'  Park,  in  N.  Grand  Ave.,  is  where  the  famous  St.  Louis  team  play  during 
the  base-ball  season.  Amateur  Park,  Kussell  and  Missouri  Aves.  (on  the  South- 
side)  is  used  for  base-ball  and  athletic  games. 

Reading-Kooms. — At  all  the  principal  hotels  there  are  reading-rooms  for 
the  use  of  guests,  well  supplied  with  newspapers,  etc.  The  city  has  just  cause 
to  be  proud  of  its  public  libraries,  which  are  large  and  carefuUy  selected.  The 
Mercantile  Library,  cor.  Broadway  and  Locust  Sts.,  has  a  library  of  80,000  vol- 
umes and  a  reading-room,  both  of  which  are  free  to  strangers  (open  from  9  a.m. 
to  10  p.  M.).  Besides  the  library,  the  haU  contains  paintings,  statuary,  coins, 
etc.    The  Public  Library,  cor.  Locust  and  9th  Sts.,  contains  80,000  volumes, 


356  ST.   LOFIS.  [Route  81. 

and  a  large  reading-room,  which  are  open  to  the  public  (from  10  a.  m.  to  10 
p.  M.).  The  Academy  of_  Science,  founded  in  1856,  has  a  large  museum  and  a 
library  of  12,000  volumes  in  the  Washington  University.  The  Missouri  Histoi'- 
ical  Society,  founded  in  1865,  has  a  large  historical  collection,  and  is  located  in 
Lucas  Place,  at  the  cor.  of  16th  St. 

Clubs.— The  University  Club,  Pine  and  Beaumont  Sts.,  occupies  an  old- 
time  Southern  mansion,  with  handsome  grounds.  The  St.  Louis,  Locust  St.  and 
Ewiug  Ave.,  has  a  fine  building.  The  JocTcey  Club,  at  the  Fair-Grounds,  has 
very  attractive  and  commodious  quarters  that  are  kept  open  the  entire  year, 
though  used  mainly  during  the  racing  season.  The  Marquette,  Grand  Ave.  and 
Pine  St.,  has  a  beautiful  house,  and  its  membership  is  chiefly  among  Catho- 
lics. The  Mercantile,  7th  and  Locust  Sts.,  is  a  business-men's  club,  and  has  a 
handsome  building.  All  the  preceding  clubs  have  restaurants.  The  Germania, 
8th  and  Gratiot  Sts.,  is  a  popular  German  club,  as  is  also  the  Liederlcranz, 
13th  St.  and  Choteau  Ave.;  while  the  Harmonie,  18th  and  Olive  Sts.,  is  a  He- 
brew club.  The  Elks  have  comfortable  quarters  in  the  Hagan  Building,  10th 
and  Pine  Sts.;  while  the  Gonimercial  Club,  composed  of  the  most  influential 
business-men  of  the  city,  usually  meets  in  the  St.  Louis  Club-House.  The  Pas- 
time is  an  athletic  club,  with  a  fine  gymnasium  and  club-house  at  811 IST.  Van- 
deventer  Ave.  The  Union,  Park  and  Jefferson  Aves.,  is  a  social  club  that  has 
just  been  organized  by  the  "South-siders."  as  the  other  leading  clubs  are  in 
the  "West-Eud"  of  the  city.  The  St.  Louis  Cycle  Club  has  a  house  at  307  N. 
Ewing  Ave.;  while  the  Camera  Club  is  located  in  the  Pastime  Building,  811 
N.  Vandeventer  Ave.  ;  the  Engineers''  Club,  in  the  Odd-Fellows',  at  9th  and 
Olive  Sts. ;  and  the  Artists''  Guild,  in  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  19th  and  Lo- 
cust Sts.  The  Modocs,  Westerns,  North-End,  and  St.  Louis  are  rowing-clubs 
that  have  boat-hoases  along  the  river-front.  The  privileges  of  these  clubs  may 
be  obtained  by  non-residents  by  an  introduction  from  a  member. 

Post-Offlce. — The  general  Post-Office  occupies  a  block  between  Olive  and 
Locust  Sts.  and  8th  to  9th  Sts.  It  is  open  on  week-days  from  7i  A.  m.  to  8  p.  M. ; 
on  Sundays  from  10  to  11  a.  m.  There  are  also  sub-stations  in  different  parts 
of  the  city,  and  letters  may  be  mailed  in  the  lamp-post  boxes,  whence  they  are 
collected  at  frequent  intervals  by  the  carriers. 

St.  Louis  is  situated  geographically  almost  in  the  center  of  the  great 
valley  of  the  Mississippi,  or  basin  of  the  continent,  on  the  W.  bank  of 
the  Mississippi  River,  20  miles  below  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri,  about 
175  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  1,170  miles  above  New 
Orleans,  in  lat.  38°  37'  N.  and  Ion.  90°  15'  W.  The  city  is  well  elevated 
above  the  surface  of  the  river,  being  built  on  a  series  of  gentle  terraces, 
the  first  of  which  rises  from  the  river-bank  for  about  1  mile  to  17th  St., 
w^here  the  elevation  is  150  ft.  above  the  stream  ;  the  ground  then  gently 
declines,  rises  in  a  second  terrace  to  29th  St. ;  again  falls,  and  subse- 
quently rises  in  a  third  terrace  to  a  height  of  200  ft.  at  Cote  Brillante 
or  Wilson's  Hill,  4  miles  W.  of  the  river ;  the  surface  here  spreads  out 
into  a  broad  and  beautiful  plain.  The  corporate  limits  embrace  61.37 
square  miles,  extending  19  miles  on  the  river-front,  21  miles  on  the 
W.  line,  and  6  miles  back  from  the  river.  The  densely-built  portion  is 
comprised  in  a  district  of  about  6  miles  along  the  river  and  3  miles  in 
width. 

In  1762  a  grant  was  made  by  the  Governor-General  of  Louisiana,  then  a 
French  province,  to  Pierre  Liguest  Laclede  and  his  partners,  comprising  the 
"  Louisiana  Fur  Company,"  to  establish  trading-posts  on  the  Mississippi ;  and 
on  February  15,  1764,  the  principal  one  was  established  where  the  city  now 
stands,  and  named  St.  Louis.  In  1803  all  the  territory  then  known  as  Louisiana 
was  ceded  to  the  United  States.  In  1812  that  portion  lying  N.  of  the  33d  de- 
gree of  latitude  was  organized  as  Missouri  Territory.  In  1822  St.  Louis  was  in- 
corporated as  a  city.  The  first  census  was  taken  in  1764,  and  the  population 
was  then  120.    In  1810  it  was  only  1,600  ;  in  1850  it  had  increased  to  77,860  ;  in 


Route  81A 


ST.    LOUIS. 


357 


1860  to  160,773  ;  and  in  1870  to  310,864.  According  to  the  U.  S.  Census  of  1880, 
the  population  was  350,522,  and  in  1890  the  U.  S.  Census  gave  St.  Louis  a  popu- 
lation of  451,770,  with  the  rank  of  five.  As  the  natural  commercial  entrepot  of 
the  vast  Mississippi  Valley,  the  commerce  of  St.  Louis  is  immense  ;  the  chief 
articles  of  receipt  and  shipment  being  breadstufl's,  live-stock,  provisions,  cotton, 


zinc,  lead  (from  the  Missouri  mines,  and  smelted  in  the  great  metallurgical  es- 
tablishments in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  St.  Louis),  hay,  salt,  wool,  hides  and 
pelts,  lumber,  tobacco,  beer,  and  groceries.  It  is  the  greatest  mule  market  in 
the  world.  Vast  as  are  its  commercial  interests,  however,  the  prosperity  of  the 
city  is  chiefly  due  to  its  manufactures.  According  to  the  census  returns  of  1890, 
there  were  6,148  industrial  establishments,  employing  93,610  hands.  The  capi- 
tal invested  was  $140,775,392,  the  cost  of  materials  used,  .|122,010,805,  while 
the  value  at  factory  of  goods  manufactured  amounted  to  $228,714,317. 


358  ST.  LOTJIS.  [Eoute  81. 

The  city  is,  for  the  most  part,  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  near  the 
river  running  parallel  with  its  curve,  while  farther  back  they  are  gener- 
ally at  right  angles  with  those  running  W.  from  the  river-bank.  From 
the  Levee,  or  river-front,  the  streets  running  N.  and  S.  are  named 
numerically,  beginning  with  Main  or  1st  St.,  2d  St.,  3d  St.,  etc.,  up  to 
25th  St.,  with  the  single  exception  of  5th  St.,  which  is  now  called  Broad- 
way. Streets  running  E.  and  W.,  and  those  W.  of  Jeiferson  Ave.,  or 
26th  St.,  are  named  arbitrarily  or  from  some  historical  association.  The 
houses  are  numbered  on  the  "  Philadelphia  system  " — i.  e.,  each  block 
starts  with  a  new  hundred,  all  streets  running  parallel  to  the  river  being 
numbered  N.  and  S.  from  Market  St. ;  while  on  all  streets  running  E. 
and  W.  the  numbering  begins  at  the  Levee.  Front  St.,  which  is  100  ft. 
wide,  extends  along  the  Levee,  and  is  built  up  with  massive  warehouses. 
This  street,  with  Main,  Second,  and  Thirds  is  the  principal  location  of 
the  wholesale  trade.  Broadway  and  Olive  Sts.  are  the  fashionable 
promenades,  and  contain  the  leading  retail  stores.  Grand  Ave.,  12 
miles  long,  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  river,  on  what  was  once  the 
W.  boundary  of  the  city,  which  is  now,  however,  extended  to  the  W. 
extremity  of  Forest  Park.  Waslmigton  Ave.  is  one  of  the  widest  and 
handsomest  in  the  city,  its  lower  end  being  occupied  by  the  wholesale 
dry-goods  trade,  and  the  upper  end  by  fine  residences.  The  city  is 
divided  by  an  E.  and  W.  valley,  in  which  are  all  the  railroad-tracks  and 
the  Union  Depot,  into  the  "  North  Side  "  and  the  "  South  Side,"  bridges 
carrying  the  streets  over  the  valley  at  12th,  14th,  18th,  26th,  2Yth,  and 
36th  Sts.  The  residences  are  large,  comfortable,  and  have  more  or  less 
ground  around  them,  the  solid  blocks  usually  seen  in  large  cities  being 
exceptional.  The  fashionable  portion  of  the  city  is  at  the  West-End, 
which  may  be  said  to  have  its  center  at  Grand  and  Washington  Aves., 
where  the  most  recent  and  finest  residences  are  to  be  seen.  The  cen- 
tral portion  of  the  city  is  occupied  by  the  Americans,  while  the  north- 
ern and  southern  sections  are  mainly  composed  of  the  large  German 
element  that  forms  so  great  a  proportion  of  the  population  of  St.  Louis. 
St.  Louis  has  many  of  the  characteristics  of  a  Southern  city,  in  its 
social  life,  as  shown  in  its  famous  hospitality,  and  the  manner  in  which 
the  people  live  out-doors  after  sunset  during  its  long  summer  season. 
The  city  is  smoky,  on  account  of  its  many  factories  and  the  use  of  soft 
coal  that  is  mined  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  some  coal-mines  having 
formerly  been  worked  within  the  city  limits.  A  very  efficient  system 
of  street-sprinkling  that  is  kept  up  throughout  the  entire  year,  and  the 
replacement  of  macadam  pavement,  made  from  the  limestone  on  which 
the  city  is  built,  by  Belgian  granite,  Nicholson,  and  asphalt  pavements, 
have  almost  entirely  done  away  with  the  dust-nuisance.  The  water- 
supply  is  derived  from  the  Mississippi  River,  which,  in  spite  of  its 
muddy  character  from  the  suspended  sediment  that  it  always  contains 
and  which  is  but  imperfectly  settled  out  at  the  water-works,  is  an  excep- 
tionally wholesome  and  safe  water  to  drink,  especially  after  filtering. 

The  city  is  remarkably  Avell  built,  stone  and  brick  being  the  chief 
materials  used,  and  the  architecture  being  more  substantial  than  showy. 
One  of  the  finest  public  buildings  in  the  city  is  the  Court-House, 


Route  81.]  ST.    LOUIS.  359 

occupying  the  square  bounded  by  4th,  5  th,  Chestnut,  and  Market  Sts. 
It  is  built  of  St.  Genevieve  limestone,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross, 
with  a  lofty  iron  dome  surmounting  its  center,  and  cost  $1,200,000.  In 
the  dome  are  frescoes  by  Karl  Weimer.  The  fronts  are  adoi'ned  with 
beautiful  porticoes,  and  from  the  cupola  of  the  dome  (which  is  acces- 
sible to  visitors)  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  its  surroundings. 
The  present  City  Hall^  cor.  Market  and  10th  Sts.,  is  a  plain  brick  struct- 
ure occupying  half  a  square ;  a  handsome  building  is  now  being  erected, 
with  brick  and  stone,  on  the  square  bounded  by  Market  St.,  Clark  Ave., 
12th,  and  13th  Sts.  The  *rour  Courts  is  a  spacious  and  handsome 
limestone  building,  in  Clark  Ave.  between  11th  and  12th  Sts.,  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000.  In  the  rear  is  an  iron  Jail,  semicircular  in 
form,  and  so  constructed  that  all  the  cells  are  under  the  observation  of 
a  single  watchman  at  once.  (Visitors  admitted  on  Mondays,  Wednes- 
days, and  Fridays,  from  8  to  9  a.  m.  and  from  3  to  4  p.  m.)  The 
Custom-House,  including  Post-Office  and  United  States  Sub-Treasury, 
is  on  the  block  between  Olive,  Locust,  8th,  and  9th  Sts.  It  is  built  of 
Maine  granite  with  rose-colored  granite  trimmings,  is  three  stories  high, 
with  a  French  roof  and  Louvre  dome,  and  the  building  was  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $8,000,000.  The  U.  S.  Arsenal,  situated  in  the  extreme  S. 
limits  of  the  city,  immediately  on  the  river,  is  a  beautiful  spot  (reached 
by  5th  St.  cars).  The  *  Chamber  of  Commerce,  in  3d  St.,  between 
Pine  and  Chestnut,  is  the  great  commercial  mai^t  of  the  city.  It  is  223  ft. 
long  by  187  ft.  deep,  is  solidly  built  of  gray  limestone,  is  six  stories  high, 
and  cost  $1,500,000.  The  main  hall  or  "Exchange"  is  a  magnificent 
room,  222  ft.  long,  65  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft.  high.  The  sessions  of  the 
Exchange  are  from  10  a.  m.  to  1  p.  m.  Strangers  are  admitted  to  the  floor 
on  introduction  by  a  member ;  the  galleries  are  free  to  all.  The  Cotton 
Exchange,  cor.  Main  and  Walnut  Sts.,  is  five  stories  high,  and  cost  $150,- 
000.  The  ^Equitahle  Life-Lisurance  Building,  cor.  6th  and  Locust  Sts., 
is  a  very  ornate  and  showy  edifice.  It  is  of  rose-colored  granite,  in  the 
Renaissance  style,  ten  stories  high,  with  a  massive  cornice  on  the  roof. 
I'rom  the  roof  (reached  by  elevators)  a  fine  view  is  obtained.  The  Repub- 
lic Bnildiiig,  cor.  3d  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  and  the  Globe-Democrat  Building, 
6th  and  Pine  Sts.,  are  among  the  most  complete  and  admirably-appointed 
newspaper  ofiices  in  the  world.  Other  fine  buildings  are  the  Roe  Build- 
ing, at  Broadway  and  Pine  St.,  constructed  of  pressed  brick,  granite, 
and  red  sandstone ;  the  Goidd  Building,  7th  and  Chestnut  Sts. ;  the 
Commercial  Bicilding,  in  Olive  and  6th  Sts. ;  the  Hoitser  Building,  at 
Broadway  and  Chestnut  Sts. ;  and  the  Liggett  and  Myers  Building, 
covering  the  whole  square  bounded  by  Washington  Ave.,  St.  Charles, 
10th,  and  11th  Sts.  Other  important  structures  are  the  Mercantile 
Library  Building,  at  Broadway  and  Locust  St.,  the  Bank  of  Commerce 
Building,  at  Broadway  and  Olive  St.,  Laclede  Bank  Building,  at  4th  and 
Olive  Sts. ;  Security  Building,  4th  and  Locust  Sts. ;  Chemical  Bank: 
Building,  6th  and  Locust  Sts.;  Ely -Walker  Building,  8th  St.  and 
Washington  Ave ;  Public  Lihmry  Building,  9th  and  Locust  Sts. ;  Tur- 
ner Building,  8th  and  Locust  Sts. ;  and  the  Odd-Fellowi  Hcdl,  at  9th 
and  Olive  Sts,    The  Union  Market  occupies  the  square  bounded  by  5th, 


360  ST.  LOUIS.  [Eoute  81. 

6th,  Christy,  and  Morgan  Sts,,  and  is  well  worth  a  visit.  So  is  the  St, 
Louis  Elevator,  on  the  Levee  at  the  foot  of  Ashley  St.  It  has  a  ca- 
pacity of  2,000,000  bushels,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  country. 
The  Levee  should  also  be  visited.  At  6th  and  Poplar  Sts.,  near  the  en- 
trance of  the  railroad-tunnel,  are  grouped  the  brick  warehouses  of  tlw; 
Cupples  Woodeyiware  Co.,  the  largest  concern  of  its  kind  in  the  coun- 
try. Here  the  goods  are  received,  stored,  and  shipped  direct  from  the 
railroad-cars,  which  enter  the  basement  of  the  building,  with  specially 
arranged  freight-elevators  and  hand-cars  for  rapidly  transferring  goods 
from  the  upper  floors  to  the  loading-platforms  in  the  basement.  Sev- 
eral of  the  largest  wholesale  houses  also  have  space  in  the  buildings, 
which  are  really  large  freight  clearing-houses. 

The  most  imposing  church  edifice  in  the  city  is  probably  the  Grand 
Avenue  Presbyterian,  in  Grand  Ave.,  at  the  head  of  Washington  Ave. 

*  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  cor.  13th  and  Locust  Sts.,  is  of  stone,  in 
cathedral-Gothic  style,  with  stained-glass  windows  and  lofty  nave.     The 

*  Cathedral  (Roman  Catholic),  in  Walnut  St.  between  2d  and  3d,  is  a 
splendid  edifice,  with  a  front  of  polished  freestone,  ornamented  by  a 
Doric  portico.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  spire  in  which  is  a  fine 
chime  of  bells.  The  St.  Xavie7'^s,  now  building,  will  be  the  finest  Cath- 
olic church  in  the  city,  and  is  on  the  corner  of  Grand  and  Lindell  Aves. 
Other  fine  Roman  Catholic  churches  are  St.  Alphonsus,  on  N.  Grand 
and  Easton  Aves.,  and  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul,  cor.  Yth  St.  and  Allen  Ave. 
The  Church  of  the  Messiah  (LTnitarian),  cor.  Garrison  Ave.  and  Locust 
St.,  is  a  fine  Gothic  structure;  and  the  Second  Presbyterian,  cor.  I'Zth 
St.  and  Lucas  Place,  is  another  noble  specimen  of  the  Gothic  style. 
The  ^  First  Presbyterian,  cor.  Washington  Ave.  and  Sarah  St.,  is  a 
large  and  costly  structure,  with  a  graceful  and  elegant  spire.  The  Union 
Church  (Methodist),  and  the  Central  Presbyterian,  both  on  corners  of 
Garrison  and  Lucas  Aves.,  are  large  and  commodious  stone  structures, 
as  is  also  the  First  Congregcdional  Church,  at  3606  Delmar  Ave. ;  the 
Cumberland  Presbyterian  Church,  at  Channing  and  Lucas  Aves. ;  and 
the  Lafayette  Presbyterian  Church,  at  Lafayette  Park.  The  building 
occupied  for  many  years  by  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  cor.  11th  and  Locust  Sts., 
is  a  good  model  of  an  old  Lombard  church,  believed  to  be  the  only 
structure  of  the  kind  in  the  country.  The  Baptist  Church,  cor.  Beau- 
mont and  Locust  Sts.,  is  a  stone  structure  of  handsome  design.  The 
Pilgrim  Congregational  Church,  a  beautiful  stone  edifice,  cor.  Ewing 
and  Washington  Aves.,  is  surmounted  by  a  handsome  belfry  containing 
a  fine  set  of  chimes.  The  *  Jewish  Temple,  cor.  lYth  and  Pine  Sts.,  is 
one  of  the  finest  ecclesiastical  structures  in  the  city,  and  the  Temple 
Israel,  in  Pine  and  28th  Sts.,  is  a  fine  structure. 

Of  the  literary  and  educational  institutions  the  most  interesting  is 
the  *  Mercantile  Ijibrary,  which  has  a  large  and  handsome  brick 
building  at  the  cor.  of  5th  and  Locust  Sts.  The  library  and  reading- 
room  are  in  the  5th  story,  and  both  are  free  to  strangers  (open  from 
9  A.  M.  to  10  p.  M.).  The  library  numbers  80,000  volumes,  and  the 
hall  contains  paintings,  coins,  and  statuary,  among  which  may  be  men- 
tioned a  series  of  Indian  portraits  by  George  Catlin ;  Harriet  Hosmer's 


Route  81.]  ST.  LOUIS.  361 

life-size  statue  of  Beatrice  Cenci ;  a  life-size  statue  of  Daniel  Webster,  by 
Yer  Hagen ;  the  West  Wind,  by  Thomas  E.  Gould ;  a  bronze  copy  of  the 
Venus  de  Medici ;  marble  busts  of  Thomas  H.  Benton,  Robert  Burns, 
Walter  Scott,  Henry  Clay,  and  Columbus ;  and  a  sculptured  slab  from 
the  ruins  of  Nineveh.  The  reading-room  is  tastefully  fitted  up,  and 
supplied  with  400  newspapers  and  magazines.  The  Public  Library 
possesses  80,000  volumes,  and  has  an  excellent  free  reading-room, 
where  235  periodicals  are  accessible.  It  occupies  the  6th  and  7th 
floors  of  a  fine  fire-proof  building  on  9th  and  Locust  Sts.,  where  it 
has  a  model  reading,  special  reference,  and  technological  rooms,  and 
a  department  for  teachers.  The  library  is  open  every  day  of  the 
year,  from  2  p.  m.  to  9  p.  m.  on  Sundays  and  holidays,  and  10  a.  m, 
to  10  p.  M.  on  week-days;  it  is  free  to  every  one  for  reference,  but 
a  small  fee  is  charged  for  books  that  are  taken  out.  The  St.  Louis 
University  (Jesuit),  cor.  Grand  Ave.  and  Pine  Sts.,  is  the  oldest  educa- 
tional institution  in  St.  Louis,  having  been  founded  in  1829.  It  has  a 
valuable  museum,  several  large  buildings,  very  complete  philosophical 
and  chemical  apparatus,  and  a  library  of  25,000  volumes,  among  which 
are  some  rare  specimens  of  early  printing.  *  Washington  Univer- 
sity j  lYth  St.  and  Washington  Ave.,  occupies  a  large  building  with  ex- 
cellent museums,  laboratories,  and  a  library  of  6,000  volumes.  It  was 
organized  in  1853,  has  a  total  endowment  of  $1,800,000,  and  has  an 
attendance  of  over  '700  students  in  the  University,  which  includes  the 
College^  the  Polytechnic  School.,  the  Henry  Shaw  School  of  Botany.^  the 
St.  Lotiis  School  of  Fine  Arts.,  the  St.  Louis  Law  School.,  and  the  St. 
Louis  Medical  School.  The  University  is  non-sectarian,  is  co-educational, 
and  maintains  a  very  high  standard.  Connected  with  it  as  preparatory 
schools  are  the  Smith  Academy.,  for  boys ;  the  Manual  Training  School, 
the  pioneer  institution  of  this  kind  in  the  United  States ;  and  the  Mary 
Institute,  an  excellent  academy  for  girls,  with  a  total  attendance  of  900 
pupils.  The  College  of  the  Christian  Brothers  (Roman  Catholic),  4  miles 
west  of  the  Court-House,  in  Franklin  Ave.  extension,  is  a  flourishing 
institution,  and  has  a  library  of  12,000  volumes.  Concordia  College  (Ger- 
man Lutheran)  was  established  in  1839,  and  has  a  library  of  4,500  vol- 
umes. The  public-school  system  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  country,  and 
the  school-houses  are  exceptionally  fine.  The  educational  development 
of  St.  Louis  is  largely  due  to  the  ability  of  Hon.  William  T.  Harris,  who 
was  Superintendent  of  City  Schools  in  1868-'80,  and  now  holds  the 
office  of  U.  S.  Commissioner  of  Education.  The  ^-  High  School  has  a 
handsome  building  of  red  sandstone  in  N.  Grand  A.ve.  The  Roman  Cath- 
olics have  about  100  parochial,  private,  and  conventual  schools. 

The  *  County  Insane  Asylum,  on  the  Arsenal  road,  4-J  miles 
from  the  Court-House,  is  an  immense  brick  and  stone  structure,  occu- 
pying about  40  acres  of  ground,  beautifully  laid  out.  On  the  premises 
is  an  artesian  well  3,843  ft.  deep.  The  Asylum  is  open  to  visitors  from 
10  A.  M.  to  12  M.  and  from  2  to  5  p.  m.  The  Poor-House  and  the  House 
of  Industry  are  just  beyond,  on  the  Arsenal  road,  and  are  spacious  brick 
buildings.  The  Workhouse  and  the  House  of  Refuge  are  4  miles  S.  of 
the  Court-House  (reached  by  the  5th  St.  hne  of  cars).     The  City  Hospi^ 


362  ST.  Lons.  Route  81. 

tal,  cor.  Lafayette  Ave.  and  Linn  St.,  is  a  handsome  building,  situated  in 
the  midst  of  pleasant  grounds  (reached  by  Pine  St.  cars  ;  open  to  visitors 
from  2  to  3  p.  m.).  The  U.  S.  3Iarine  Hospital  is  in  Carondelet  Ave., 
3  miles  from  the  Court-House.  .  St.  Luke's.^  under  charge  of  an  Episco- 
pal Sisterhood,  is  cor.  19th  St.  and  Washington  Ave.  The  Convent  of 
the  Good  Shepherd^  for  the  reformation  of  fallen  women,  is  at  the  cor.  of 
Chestnut  and  fZth  Sts.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asyltmi  (Roman  Catholic) 
is  at  the  cor.  of  Beaumont  and  Lucas  Sts.  St.  Louis  is  famous  for  the 
number  of  its  charitable  institutions,  of  which  we  have  found  space  to 
enumerate  only  a  few,  and  probably  no  city  in  the  country  is  better 
equipped  in  this  way.  The  *  JGxposition  Building,  at  the  foot  of 
Lucas  Place,  between  Olive,  St.  Charles,  13th,  and  14th  Sts.,  on  what 
was  formerly  Missouri  Park,  is  a  noble  structure.  The  area  of  ground 
covered  is  322  ft.  by  455  ft.  It  is  3  stories  high,  and  the  exterior  is 
richly  decorated  with  terra-cotta  statuary,  tracings,  and  figures  in  high 
relief.  The  interior,  in  addition  to  the  Exhibition  Hall,  contains  a 
music-hall,  a  lecture-hall,  and  an  art-gallery.  An  exceptionally  good 
industrial  exhibition,  with  daily  concerts  by  famous  musicians,  is  given 
every  year  from  September  1  to  October  16,  while  the  two  halls  are  used 
for  operas,  concerts,  etc.,  during  the  winter  season.  The  *  Museum 
of  Fine  Arts,  19th  and  Locust  Sts.,  is  the  home  of  the  Art  depart- 
ment of  Washington  University,  with  2*75  students  in  its  day  and  even- 
ing classes.  It  is  a  beautiful  gray  limestone  building,  with  a  pleasing 
lecture-hall,  and  contains  collections  of  casts  from  the  Grecian  and  Egyp- 
tian antique,  statuary,  paintings,  ceramic-ware,  wood-carving,  and  indus- 
trial art.  The  Shrine  of  St,  Siehald  is  one  of  the  casts,  while  Harriet 
Hosmer's  GEnone,  Puck^  and  Zetiobia  are  among  the  statuary.  Several 
of  Weimar'^s  valuable  studies  of  frontier  life  are  in  the  picture-gallery,  as 
also  Washington  Allston's  Paul  and  Silas  ;  Dupre's  masterpiece,  *  In 
the  Pasture;  the  Parting  Kiss^  by  Beyle;  Harrison's  much-admired  Le 
Crepuscide  ;  Vely's  *  Love  and  Riches ;  Thompson's  magnificent  land- 
scape, ^The  Shepherdess  ;  Sand-Dunes  in  France,  by  Pelouse  ;  End  of 
Autumn^  by  Luigi  Loir ;  and  Ecce  Homo,  by  Naudin. 

The  public  squares  and  parks  of  St.  Louis  embrace  in  the  aggregate 
some  2,268  acres,  and  weekly  concerts  are  given  in  all  the  parks  during 
the  summer.  The  most  beautiful  is  *  Lafayette  Park,  which  em- 
braces about  30  acres  in  the  S.  portion  of  the  city  (reached  by  Chou- 
teau Ave.  cars,  running  on  4th  St.,  and  Pine  St.  cars).  It  is  for  pedes- 
.  trians  only,  is  admirably  laid  out  and  adorned,  and  is  surrounded  by 
costly  residences.  In  it  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Thomas  H.  Benton,  by 
Harriet  Hosmer,  and  one  of  Washington.  St.  Louis  Place,  and  Hyde 
Park,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city,  are  attractive  places  of  resort,  the 
former  containing  11  and  the  latter  12  acres.  0'' Fallon  Park  (160 
acres),  on  the  bluffs  in  the  N.  portion,  is  noted  for  its  fine  trees.  Ca- 
rondelet Park,  in  the  S.  end  of  the  city,  contains  180  acres,  and  has 
some  beautiful  bits  of  natural  scenery.  *  Forest  Park  is  the  largest 
and  finest  park  in  the  city.  It  is  in  the  W.  portion,  with  two  fine  boule- 
vards (the  St.  Louis  and  the  *  Lindell)  leading  to  it ;  on  the  latter  are 
some  of  the  finest  residences  in  St.  Louis,     The  park  contains  1,371 


Route  81.]  ST.  LOUIS.  363 

acres ;  is  heavily  covered  with  fine  old  oaks ;  has  numerous  lakes  and 
the  Des  Peres  Kiver  meandering  through  it ;  has  a  driving-park,  a 
zoological  garden,  tennis-courts,  and  ball-grounds.  Bronze  statues  of 
Frmik  P.  Blair  and  Edimrd  Bates  occupy  prominent  sites  at  the  E. 
end.  The  Olive  St.,  Washington  Ave.,  Laclede  Ave.,  Choteau  Ave.,  and 
suburban  cars  go  direct  to  the  park.  *  Tower  Grove  Park,  2Y6 
acres,  hes  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  city  (reached  by  4th  St.  cars  and 
Gravois  Railway  lines,  from  4th  and  Pine  Sts.).  It  is  beautifully  laid 
out,  with  green  lawns  and  shrubbery,  and  offers  the  pleasantest  drives 
of  any  park  in  the  city.  It  contains  statues  of  *  Shakespeare^  *  Cohim- 
bus,  and  '^Humboldt,  which  are  masterpieces,  by  Von  Miiller. 

Adjoining  Tower  Grove  Park  is  *  Shaw's  Garden,  formerly  owned 
by  Henry  Shaw,  whose  will  has  made  it  the  property  of  the  city,  and 
endowed  it  with  a  very  large  fund  for  maintenance.  The  garden  con- 
tains 109  acres,  and  is  divided  into  three  sections.  The  Floretum  or 
Flower  Garden,  embracing  10  acres,  contains  almost  every  flower  that 
can  be  grown  in  this  latitude;  and  there  are  several  greenhouses,  in 
which  are  thousands  of  exotic  and  tropical  plants.  In  the  Fruticetura, 
comprising  6  acres,  are  fruits  of  all  kinds.  The  Arboretum  is  25  acres 
in  extent,  and  contains  all  kinds  of  ornamental  and  fruit  trees  that  will 
grow  in  this  climate.  The  Labyrinth  is  an  intricate,  hedge-bordered 
pathway,  leading  to  a  summer-house  in  the  center.  A  brick  building 
near  Mr.  Shaw's  late  residence  contains  a  botanical  library  and  one  of 
the  largest  Herbariums  in  the  country.  The  *  Fair  Grounds  of  the 
St.  Louis  Agi'icultural  and  Mechanical  Association  embrace  137  acres, 
3  miles  N.  W.  of  the  Court-House,  are  handsomely  laid  out  and  orna- 
mented, contain  extensive  buildings,  and  one  of  the  best  Zoological 
Gardens  in  the  country.  The  Amphitheatre  will  seat  40,000  persons. 
There  is  a  fine  one-mile  race-track,  with  grand  stand  and  club-house. 
"  Fair- week,"  which  is  usually  the  first  week  in  October,  is  the  gala- 
season  in  St.  Louis,  as  the  huge  annual  Fair  is  open  by  day,  while  the 
Veiled  Prophets  and  other  processions  are  given  by  night.  The  grounds 
are  reached  by  cars  on  Washington  Ave.,  Franklin  Ave.,  Cass  Ave.  line. 
Mound  City  line,  and  Jefferson  Ave.  line. 

*B8lIefontaine  Cemetery,  the  most  beautiful  in  the  West,  is 
situated  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city,  about  4^  miles  from  the  Court- 
House  (reached  by  5th  St.  cars  or  the  Vine  St.  branch  of  the  Wabash 
R.  R.).  It  embraces  350  acres,  is  tastefully  decorated  with  trees  and 
shrubbery,  and  contains  some  fine  monuments.  Calvary  Cemetery  (225 
acres)  lies  a  short  distance  N.  of  Belief ontaine,  and  is  little  inferior, 
either  in  size  or  beauty. 

The  great  *  St-.  Louis  Bridge  across  the  Mississippi,  from  the 
foot  of  Washington  Ave.  to  a  corresponding  point  in  East  St.  Louis,  is 
regarded  as  one  of  the  greatest  triumphs  of  American  engineering.  It 
was  designed  by  James  B.  Eads,  and  was  begun  in  1869  and  completed 
in  18Y4.  It  consists  of  three  spans  resting  on  four  piers.  The  piers 
are  composed  of  granite  and  limestone,  and  rest  on  the  bed-rock  of  the 
river,  to  which  they  were  sunk  through  the  sand  from  90  to  120  ft. 
by  the  use  of  wrought-iron  caissons  and  compressed  air,     The  cen- 


364  ST.  LOtJis.  [Eoute  81. 

ter  span  is  520  ft.,  and  the  side  ones  are  each  500  ft.  in  the  clear; 
each  of  them  is  formed  of  four  ribbed  arches,  made  of  cast  steel.  The 
rise  of  the  arches  is  60  ft.,  sufficiently  high  to  permit  the  passage  of 
steamboats  at  all  stages  of  the  water.  The  bridge  is  built  in  two 
stories,  the  lower  one  containing  a  double  car-track,  and  the  upper 
one  two  8-feet  foot-ways,  and  a  carriage-way  of  30  ft.  in  width.  It 
passes  over  a  viaduct  of  five  arches  (27  ft.  span  each)  into  Washing- 
ton Ave.,  where  the  lower  roadway  runs  into  a  tunnel  4,800  ft.  long, 
which  passes  under  the  principal  part  of  the  city,  terminating  at  8th  and 
Poplar  Sts.  The  total  cost  of  bridge  and  tunnel  was  over  $10,000,000. 
The  Merchants'  Bridge^  a  magnificent  structui-e  of  similar  magnitude 
and  completeness,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city,  now  rivals  it  in  usefulness. 
The  Grand  Ave.  Bridge.^  across  the  railroad-tracks,  is  a  handsome  sus- 
pension bridge  that  is  well  worth  visiting.  The  city  Water-  Works  are 
situated  at  Bissell's  Point,  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  3-|  miles  JS".  of  the 
Court-House  (reached  by  5th  St.  cars).  The  buildings  are  substantial,  and 
the  seven  pumping-engines,  with  a  capacity  of  92,000,000  gallons  a  day, 
are  worth  seeing.  The  engine-rooms  are  open  to  visitors  at  all  times. 
New  water-works  are  now  in  course  of  construction  at  the  Chain  of 
Rocks,  1  miles  farther  up  the  river. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  exciu-sions  have  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the 
visitor  can  readily  spend  more  time,  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  attention. 

1.  Visit  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  3d  and  Pine  Sts.  (visitors'  gal- 
lery open  from  10  a.  M.  to  1  p.  m.).  Then  pass  down  Pine  St.  to  the 
Levee,  alongside  of  which  are  the  wharf-boats,  connected  by  bridges, 
by  which  trucks  drive  on  and  off  the  steamboats  with  their  loads.  As 
the  river  is  subject  to  a  rise  of  40  ft.  between  high  and  low  water,  it  is 
necessary  to  use  this  wharf-boat  system  instead  of  docks.  Go  on  board 
some  of  the  famous  Mississippi  steamboats,  preferably  of  the  Anchor 
Line  or  New  Orleans  boats  (at  the  foot  of  Olive  St.),  which  are  the 
largest  on  the  river.  Walk  up  the  Levee  to  the  St.  Louis  Bridge,  a 
good  view  of  which  is  obtained  from  the  Levee,  and  cross  it  by  the 
electric-cars  from  the  3d  St.  and  Washington  Ave.  entrance.  Transfer, 
at  the  East  St.  Louis  terminus,  to  the  Stock- Yards  electric-car  for  the 
large  National  Stock  -  Yards,  in  East  St.  Louis,  and  adjoining  which  are 
several  large  packing-houses.  Return  to  St.  Louis  by  same  route,  and 
visit  the  Boatman's  Bank,  at  4th  St.  and  Washington  Ave.,  which  has 
the  finest  offices  in  the  city.  Then  visit  the  Mercantile  Library,  5th  and 
Locust  Sts.,  with  its  statuary,  reading  and  reference  rooms.  Then  visit 
the  Equitable  Building,  6th  and  Locust  Sts.,  one  of  the  largest  office- 
buildings,  from  the  top  of  which  there  is  an  excellent  view.  Walk  up 
Locust  St.  to  9th  St.,  past  the  Mercantile  Club,  in  7th  St.,  and  the  Post- 
Office,  at  8th  St.,  to  the  Public  Library.  Wh\k  up  two  blocks  to  the 
old  Lombard  Church,  in  11th  St.,  and  go  S.  one  block  to  Olive  St.,  and 
walk  down  town  or  E.  on  OUve  St.,  passing  the  Masonic  Temple,  in  10th 


Boute81.]  ST.    LOUIS.  365 

St. ;  Pope's  Theatre  and  the  Odd-Feliows'  Building,  in  9th  St. ;  the  Tur- 
ner Building,  in  8th  St. ;  Barr's  retail  store  and  the  Commercial  Build- 
ing, in  6th  St. ;  the  Bank  of  Commerce,  in  5th  St. ;  and  the  Laclede 
Building,  in  4th  St.  Then  walk  N.  one  block  on  4th  St.  to  the  Secu- 
rity Building. 

2.  Visit  the  Union  Market,  at  5  th  and  Morgan  Sts.  Then  take 
Washington  Ave.  cars  to  Washington  TJniversity,  at  lYth  St.,  passing 
the  Lindeil  Hotel,  in  6th  St. ;  the  Ely-Walker  Building,  in  '7th  St. ;  the 
Simmons  Hardware  Co.'s  Building,  in  9th  St.,  the  largest  hardware 
house  in  this  country;  the  Liggett  &  Meyer  Building,  in  10th  St.;  the 
Belvedere  Hotel,  at  13th  St.;  and  the  EicheKeu  Hotel,  at  14th  St.  At 
Washington  University  are  museums,  laboratories,  and  libraries.  Then 
walk  one  block  to  the  Manual  Training  School,  with  its  shops  and  ma- 
chinery. Yisit  the  Art  Museum,  19th  and  Locust  Sts.,  with  its  paint- 
ings, statuary,  and  industrial  art  exhibits.  Then  visit  the  plant  of  the 
Missouri  Electric  Light  Co.,  in  20th  St.,  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  in 
the  country.  Then  walk  E.  four  blocks  to  the  Historical  Society  Build- 
ing, 16th  and  Locust  Sts.,  which  has  a  very  fine  and  valuable  collection 
of  prehistoric  implements  and  local  portraits.  Walk  down  Locust  St. 
to  14th,  to  the  Exposition  Building,  which  be  sure  to  visit  if  open ;  and 
then  the  large  tobacco-factory  of  Liggett  &  Meyers,  in  13th  and  St. 
Charles  Sts. 

3.  Visit  the  huge  freight  clearing-houses  of  the  Cupples  Wooden- 
ware  Co.,  and  other  wholesale  concerns,  at  6th  and  Poplar  Sts.  Walk 
W.  six  blocks  to  the  St.  Louis  Sampling  &  Testing  Works,  1225  Spruce 
St.,  where  visitors  are  welcome  to  see  the  interesting  gold  and  silver 
milling  processes.  Thence  take  14th  St.  cars  to  the  Electric  Lighting 
Station,  in  18th  and  Papin  Sts.,  which  furnishes  the  electricity  for  light- 
ing the  streets  of  the  city.  Then  take  the  blue  cars  to  Schnaider's  Gar- 
den, Mississippi  and  Choteau  Aves.,  the  best  of  the  beer-gardens  and 
where  light  operas  are  given  during  the  summer  season ;  and  walk  three 
blocks  S.  to  Lafayette  Park,  with  lovely  walks,  and  statues  of  Benton 
and  Washington.  Take  the  blue  cars  at  Lafayette  and  Mississippi  Aves. 
to  the  City  Hospital,  Linn  St.  and  Lafayette  Ave.  Visit  the  famous 
Anheuser-Busch  Brewery,  by  the  Broadway  or  6th  St.  cars,  the  largest 
in  the  world.  Visitors  are  escorted  through  its  interesting  plant  by 
special  guides. 

4.  Take  Broadway  cars  going  N.  for  the  Water-Works,  passing  the 
Belcher  Sugar-Refinery,  the  Niedringhaus  Granite-Ironware  Mill,  the 
Horse  and  Mule  Markets,  numerous  factories,  and  the  St.  Louis  Stock- 
Yards.  At  the  Water- Works  a  fine  view  is  to  be  had  of  the  Merchants' 
Bridge ;  visit  the  imposing  pumping-engines,  settling-basins,  and  finally 
the  Water-Tower,  a  few  blocks  up  the  hill.  The  Old  Water-Tower  is  a 
Corinthian  column  181  ft.  high,  from  the  top  of  which  an  extensive  view 
is  to  be  had.  Deep  quarries  in  the  vicinity  of  the  towers  expose  the  gray 
limestone  which  underlies  the  entire  city,  and  which  is  largely  used  for 
building  and  paving  purposes.  Then  take  Broadway  and  Baden  cars 
to  O'Fallon  Park,  a  beautiful  natural  park  on  the  bluif.  Again  take 
Baden  cars  to  Bellefontaine  (Protestant,  350  acres)  and  Calvary  (Catho- 


366  ST.   LOTJIS.  [Boute  81. 

lie,  225  acres)  Cemeteries.     Return  by  the  Wabash  R.  R.  from  the  local 
cemetery  station. 

5.  Take  Mound  City  cars  (red,  electric)  to  St.  Louis  Park,  a  pretty 
park  of  12  acres  in  the  northern  part  of  the  city.  Then,  by  same  cars, 
continue  to  the  Fair-Grounds,  in  Grand  Ave.,  where  there  is  a  zoological 
garden,  race-track,  amphitheatre,  and  exhibition  buildings  for  the  huge 
annual  agricultural  fair ;  the  tasteful  quarters  of  the  Jockey  Club  are 
here ;  also  a  restaurant  at  the  House  of  Public  Comfort.  Take  Frank- 
lin Ave.  cable-car  to  Easton  and  Grand  Aves.,  passing  Sportsman's  Park, 
the  home  of  the  St.  Louis  Base-Ball  Team ;  walk  S.  on  Grand  Ave.  from 
Easton  to  Vandeventer  Place,  passing  St.  Alphonsus's  or  the  "  Rock  " 
Church,  and  the  High  School.  Stroll  through  Vandeventer  Place,  which 
is  a  select  residence  park  for  the  aristocracy,  with  many  beautiful  homes, 
at  the  foot  of  which  is  the  house  of  the  Pastime  Club.  Then  take 
Washington  Ave.  cars  (electric)  for  down  town,  passing  many  fine  resi- 
dences in  the  West  End,  and  Cumberland  Church,  at  Channing  and 
Lucas  Aves. ;  the  Central  and  Union,  at  Garrison  and  Lucas  Aves. ;  Pil- 
grim Church,  at  Ewing  and  Washington  Aves. ;  and  Washington  Uni- 
versity, lYth  St.  and  Washington  Ave. 

6.  Drive  out  on  Lucas  Place  to  Beaumont  St.,  passing  the  Exposition 
Building,  in  14th  St. ;  the  St.  Louis  Law  School,  at  loth  St. ;  the  Sec- 
ond Presbyterian  Church,  at  18th  St.;  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  at  19th 
St. ;  Robert  H.  Brooking' s  residence,  at  26th  St. ;  and  Mary  Institute,  at 
27th  St.  Then  go  S.  two  blocks  to  Pine  St.,  and  drive 'W.  to  Grand 
Ave.,  passing  the  University  Club,  at  Beaumont  St. ;  the  Jewish  Tem- 
ple, in  28th  St. ;  and  the  St.  Louis  University,  on  Grand  Ave.  Then 
drive  W.  to  Kingshighway  by  the  Lindell  Boulevard,  passing  many 
fine  residences.  Drive  through  Westmoreland  and  Portland  Places, 
from  Kingshighway,  which  are  exclusive  parks  for  residences  for  the 
wealthy.  Drive  through  Forest  Park,  the  largest  park  in  St.  Louis, 
with  many  beautiful  drives,  statues  of  Blair  and  Bates,  music-pavilion, 
and  race-track.  Drive  back  to  Grand  Ave.  by  way  of  St.  Louis  Boule- 
vard and  West  Pine  St.,  on  which  latter  is  the  Cupples  mansion, 
the  finest  in  the  city ;  also  many  other  residences.  Then  drive  S.  on 
Grand  Ave.  to  Compton  Hill  Park  (passing  over  the  Grand  Ave.  Sus- 
pension Bridge),  which  contains  attractive  flower-gardens  and  the  city 
reservoir.  Then  drive  to  Tower  Grove  Park,  taking  the  central  drive, 
with  the  statues  of  Columbus,  Humboldt,  and  Shakespeare.  Thence  to 
Shaw's  Botanical  Garden,  where  time  should  be  taken  to  see  what 
promises  to  rival  the  Kew  Gardens  of  London;  the  Floretum  and 
greenhouses,  with  their  wealth  of  native  and  tropical  flowers  ;  the  Ar- 
boretum, with  its  variety  of  forest-trees ;  and  the  Fruiticetum,  with  its 
collection  of  fruit-trees.  The  Botanical  Museum,  with  its  valuable  Her- 
barium, and  the  tomb  of  Henry  Shaw,  the  founder  and  endower  of 
Tower  Grove  Park  and  the  Botanical  Gardens,  should  also  be  visited. 
Return  down  town  by  way  of  Tower  Grove  Park,  Grand  Ave.,  and 
Lafayette  Ave.,  passing  by  Lafayette  Park. 

7.  Take  the  Iron  Mountain  R.  R.  to  Jeiferson  Barracks  (from  4th 
St.  and  Choteau  Ave.  depot;  12  miles),  the  headquarters  of  the  St. 


BouteSL]  ST.  Loris.  367 

Louis  Station  of  the  U.  S.  Army.  The  quarters  of  the  officers  and 
troops  are  quite  interesting,  and  the  cavalry  parades  well  worth  seeing, 
the  grand  parade  being  on  Sunday,  at  noon.  Concerts  are  also  given 
by  the  post  band.  The  grounds  are  extensive,  and  beautifully  situated 
on  bluffs  overlooking  the  Mississippi.  Return  by  Iron  Mountain  R.  R. 
(Missouri  Pacific  System)  to  Carondelet,  and  visit  the  picturesque  Caron- 
delet  Pco'k.  Then  take  the  Oak  Hill  R.  R.  to  the  Insane  Asylum,  an  im- 
posing building  on  the  highest  piece  of  ground  in  the  city,  and  from  the 
dome  of  which  a  very  extensive  panorama  is  to  be  seen.  The  County 
Poor-House  and  the  Crematory  are  in  the  immediate  neighborhood. 

8.  One  of  the  most  attractive  suburban  trips  is  to  take  the  Missouri 
Pacific  R.  R.  to  Kirkwood  (14  miles),  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  sub- 
urbs. Thence  drive  over  to  the  Meramec  Highlands  (about  3  miles)  by 
way  of  the  Springs,  where  the  Meramec  River  makes  a  very  pretty  bit 
of  scenery  with  its  bold  bluifs.  Drive  thence  to  Old  Orchard  and  Web- 
ster, which  are  younger  adjoining  suburbs,  and  return  to  town  by  either 
the  St.  Louis  &  San  Francisco  R.  R.  or  the  Missouri  Pacific  R.  R. 

9.  An  interesting  day's  excursion  35  miles  down  the  river  is  to  Crys- 
tal City  by  boat.  The  steamboat  lines  will  land  on  signahng.  An  ex- 
cellent general  view  can  be  had  of  St.  Louis  from  the  boat;  of  the 
manufacturing  industries  of  Carondelet  (now  part  of  St.  Louis),  5  miles 
lower  down;  while  Jefferson  Bari-acks  are  passed  at  12  miles.  Quaran- 
tine at  13  miles,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Meramec  River  at  20  miles  below 
the  city.  The  little  town  of  Kims  wick,  with  its  sulphur  springs,  is 
passed  at  22  miles,  on  the  Missouri  side  of  the  river,  and  the  hamlet 
of  Sulphur  Springs,  23  miles  lower  down,  on  the  same  side.  The  east- 
ern or  Illinois  bank  is  a  continuous  stretch  of  low  bottom-land  as  far 
as  Crystal  City,  famous  for  its  remarkable  fertility.  The  western  or 
Missouri  bank  consists  of  bold  and  highly  picturesque  limestone  bluffs 
that  rise  abruptly  to  a  height  of  100  to  300  ft.  Numerous  examples  of 
the  attempts  to  improve  the  channel  of  the  river  are  to  be  seen  on  this 
trip.  At  Crystal  City,  about  one  mile  back  from  the  river,  are  the  ex- 
tensive works  of  the  Crystal  City  Plate-Glass  Co.  The  different  opera- 
tions of  casting,  rolling,  annealing,  and  polishing  the  large  sheets  of 
glass  are  interesting.  The  works  are  accessible  to  visitors  on  applica- 
tion to  the  superintendent.  Return  to  St.  Louis  by  train  over  the  pri- 
vate road  of  the  glass  company  to  Silica  (2  miles),  and  then  the  Iron 
Mountain  R.  R.  to  St.  Louis  (32  miles). 

10.  To  those  interested  in  industrial  matters  an  enjoyable  excur- 
sion can  be  made  in  a  day  to  the  establishment  of  the  St.  Joe  Lead 
Co.,  at  Bonne  Terre,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  lead-producers  in  this 
country.  (Take  the  Iron  Mountain  R.  R.  to  Riverside  station  (26  miles), 
and  then  change  cars,  taking  the  Bonne  Terre  &  Mississippi  R.  R.  for 
Bonne  Terre,  about  33  miles  beyond).  At  Bonne  Terre  are  huge  un- 
derground workings  in  a  magnesian  limestone  at  a  depth  of  100  to 
300  ft.,  the  ore  yielding  only  5  to  10  per  cent,  of  lead.  The  roof  of 
the  mine  is  supported  on  large  pillars  of  ore.  The  ore  is  crushed  and 
concentrated  into  a  rich  grade  in  an  imposing  dressing-mill,  after  being 
hoisted  out  of  the  mine  through  a  vertical  shaft.     It  is  then  roasted,  to 


368  CHICA.GO   TO   CINCINKATI.  [Route  82. 

free  it  from  sulphur,  in  a  series  of  long,  low  reverberatory  furnaces,  and 
finally  smelted  into  pig-lead  in  circular  water-Jacket  furnaces.  The  pig- 
lead  is  remelted  and  reworked  in  refining  furnaces  before  it  is  finally 
shipped  to  market. 

82.  Chicago  to  Cincinnati. 

a.  Via  Pittsburg^  Cincinnati^  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R. 

Distance,  300  miles. 

Leaving  Chicago  by  this  route,  the  train  runs  S.  E.  by  the  small 
stations  of  Lansing  (20  miles),  Crovm  Point  (41  miles),  and  Hebron  (51 
miles),  to  La  Crosse  (67  miles),  a  small  village  at  the  intersection  of  the 
Louisville,  New  Albany  &  Chicago  R.  R.  Winamac  (91  miles)  is  the 
capital  of  Pulaski  County,  Ind.,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Tippe- 
canoe River.  Twenty-six  miles  beyond  Winamac  the  train  reaches 
liOgansport  {Murdock  Hotel,  Barnett,  Johnson,  Windsor),  on  the 
Wabash  River  at  its  confluence  with  Eel  River,  and  on  the  Wabash 
and  Erie  Canal.  It  has  a  population  of  13,328,  and  is  at  the  inter- 
section of  four  important  railroads,  including  the  Wabash  Line,  de- 
scribed in  Route  79.  The  iron  bridge  by  which  this  road  crosses 
the  Wabash  at  Logansport  is  a  noteworthy  structure.  The  city  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  rich  agricultural  country,  and  has  an  important  trade,  con- 
siderable quantities  of  poplar  and  black- walnut  lumber  )3eing  shipped. 
Watei--power  is  abundant,  and  is  used  to  some  extent  in  manufactures. 
The  principal  industrial  establishment  is  the  car-works  of  the  Pitts- 
burgh, Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.,  which  cover  25  acres  and 
employ  600  workmen.  Three  cars  a  day  can  be  turned  out  at  these 
shops.  The  Court- House,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  State,  is  built  of  cut 
stone;  and  several  of  the  churches  and  other  buildings  are  also  of 
stone.  The  Northern  Indiana  Hospital  for  the  Insane  consists  of  thir- 
teen large  buildings,  in  a  farm  of  281  acres,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Wa- 
bash, Beyond  Loganspoi't  the  train  traverses  a  rich  agricultural  dis- 
trict, and  soon  reaches  Kokomo  (139  miles),  a  pretty  village  on  Wild- 
Cat  Creek.  Connection  is  made  here  with  the  Lake  Erie  &  Western 
R.  R.  Beginning  at  Kokomo  and  extending  through  Elwood  (161  miles), 
Anderson  (175  miles),  to  New  Castle  (197  miles),  is  the  Indiana  gas- 
field,  in  which  is  an  abundant  and  undiminishing  supply  of  natural  gas, 
making  this  section  peculiarly  adapted  for  manufacturing  purposes. 
Richmond  is  described  in  Route  80,  and  Hamilton  in  Route  74. 

b.  Via  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R. 

Distance,  306  miles. 
This  route,  popularly  known  as  the  "Big  Four,"  is  the  shortest 
route.  Three  trains  daily  run  through  both  ways  without  change  of 
cars.  As  far  as  Kankakee  (56  miles)  this  route  is  described  in  Route 
84.  From  Kankakee  the  train  runs  S.  E.  by  a  number  of  small  sta- 
tions to  Jjafayette  [Lahr  House,  St.  Nicholas),  one  of  the  principal 
cities  of  Indiana,  with  a  population  of  16,243,  a  flourishing  tirade  with 
the  surrounding  country,  and  a  number   of   important    manufactories, 


Route  83.]  CHICAGO   TO    LOUISVILLE.  369 

embracing  foundries  and  machine-shops,  marble-Avorks,  flouring-mills, 
woolen-mills,  breweries,  etc.  The  city  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Wabash  River,  is  on  the  line  of  the  Wabash  &  Erie 
Canal,  and  is  the  point  of  intersection  of  four  lines  of  railway,  in- 
cluding the  Wabash  Line  to  the  West  (see  Route  '79).  It  is  built 
on  rising  ground,  inclosed  in  the  rear  by  hills  of  easy  ascent,  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  river  valley.  The  streets  are  paved,  and 
lighted  with  gas  and  electric  lights,  and  there  are  many  handsome  build- 
ings, among  them  the  County  Jail.,  erected  in  1869,  an  Opera-House., 
and  Cotirt-House.  Lafayette  is  the  seat  of  Pnrdne  University.,  a  richly- 
endowed  institution,  which  is  the  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  the 
Mechanic  Arts.  The  University  Building  proper  is  a  fine  edifice,  and 
there  are  nine  other  buildings,  with  grounds  184  acres  in  extent.  Of 
the  five  public-school  buildings,  Ford''s  ScJiool-Jiouse.,  erected  in  1869  at 
a  cost  of  $85,000,  is  the  finest.  A  High-School  and  Public  Library 
Building  is  just  completed,  costing  $60,000.  Near  the  center  of  the  city 
is  a  public  square  containing  an  artesian  well  236  ft.  deep,  from  which 
issues  sulphur-water  possessing  curative  properties.  To  the  X.  and  N.  E. 
are  Greenbush  and  Springvale  Cemeteries,  handsomely  situated  and 
adorned  with  trees ;  and  just  S.  of  the  city  limits  are  the  Agricultural  Fair 
Grounds  of  the  county.  The  battle-ground  of  Tippecanoe,  where  Gen. 
William  H.  Harrison  defeated  the  Indians  Nov.  Y,  1811,  is  Y  miles  N. 
of  the  city. 

Beyond  Lafayette,  the  train  passes  the  small  villages  of  Colfax., 
Thorntown.,  and  Lebanon.,  and  in  64  miles  reaches  the  city  of  Indian- 
apolis (195  miles  from  Chicago),  which  has  been  described  in  Route 
79.  Between  Indianapolis  and  Cincinnati  there  are  many  pretty  towns 
and  villages,  but  few  that  present  any  noteworthy  features.  Shelbyville 
(232  miles)  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  Blue  River,  and  is  the  seat 
of  a  large  seminary.  Greenshiirg  (251  miles)  attracts  attention  by  its 
air  of  neatness  and  busy  thrift.  At  Lawrenceburg  (see  Route  78)  the 
road  turns  E.  and  follows  the  bank  of  the  Ohio  River  to  Cincinnati. 

83.  Chicago  to  Louisville. 

By  the  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  E.  R.  Distances  :  to 
Kokbmo,  139  miles  ;  to  Seymour,  176  ;  to  Indianapolis,  194  ;  to  Columbus,  235  ; 
to  Jeffersonville,  302  ;  to  New  Albany,  304  ;  to  Louisville,  304. 

From  Chicago  to  Logansport  the  line  is  the  same  as  that  described 
in  Route  82.  At  Kokomo  (see  p.  368)  the  road  branches  southward  to 
Indianapolis.,  passing  through  Tipton.,  a  thriving  village  of  2,6'7'7  inhab- 
itants, also  on  the  line  of  the  Lake  Erie  &  Western  R.  R.  The  next  place 
of  importance  is  Noblesville.,  on  the  crossing  of  the  Chicago  &  Southeast- 
ern R.  R.  of  Indiana.  It  is  the  seat  of  Hamilton  County,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  3,054  inhabitants.  Natural  gas  is  abundant  here,  and  is  used 
for  fuel.  Indianapolis  is  then  reached,  and  has  already  been  described 
on  p.  350.  Some  41  miles  S.  is  Columbus.,  a  city  of  6,719  inhabitants. 
It  is  noted  for  its  handsome  residences  and  clean  and  well-shaded  streets. 
It  has  two  large  flouring-mills,  the  largest  cerealine-miU  in  the  country, 
24 


370  CHICAGO   TO   CAIEO.  [Route  8^. 

and  the  plant  of  the  American  Starch  Factory.  Seymour,  with  6,32^ 
inhabitants,  is  the  only  place  of  importance  before  Louisville  (p.  344)  is 
reached.     It  is  on  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  R.  R. 

84.  Chicago  to  Cairo. 

By  the  Chicago  Division  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  E.  This  road  traverses 
Illinois  from  end  to  end,  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  State.  It  passes  through 
one  of  the  most  productive  and  populous  sections  of  the  Great  West,  but,  im- 
portant as  it  is  from  a  commercial  point  of  view,  it  offers  very  little  by  the  way  to 
challenge  the  attention  of  the  tourist.  Distances  :  Chicago  to  Kankakee,  56 
miles  ;  to  Gilman,  81  ;  to  Paxton,  108  ;  to  Mattoon,  173  ;  to  Effingham,  199  ;  to 
Centralia,  253 ;  to  Du  Quoin.  289  ;  to  Carbondale,  308 ;  to  Jonesboro,  329 :  to 
Cairo,  365. 

Leaving  Chicago  by  this  route,  the  train  passes  several  pretty 
suburban  villages,  and  in  14  miles  reaches  Ketisington,  at  the  crossing 
of  the  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  (Route  65).  Monee  (84  miles)  is  the 
highest  point  on  the  entire  line,  being  upon  the  dividing  ridge  between 
Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi.  Kankakee  (56  miles)  is  upon 
the  river  of  the  same  name,  which  is  one  of  the  principal  tribu- 
taries of  the  Illinois  (population,  9,025).  It  is  a  manufacturing  town 
of  considerable  importance,  having  iron-foundries,  machine-shops,  tool- 
works,  woolen-mills,  planing-mills,  etc.,  and  here  is  the  diverging-point  of 
the  Kankakee  &  Seneca  branch  of  the  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  & 
St.  Louis  R.  R.,  and  of  what  is  known  as  the  "  Kankakee  Short  Lines  " 
(see  Route  82  h).  When  the  railroad  was  begun,  a  forest  stood  upon  the 
site.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  Kankakee  are  quarries  of  a 
superior  kind  of  limestone.  Clifton  (69  miles)  is  supplied  with  water 
by  artesian  wells,  a  constant  supply  being  obtained  at  a  depth  of  80  to 
100  ft.  The  streets  of  the  village  are  regularly  laid  out  and  planted 
with  shade-trees.  At  Gilman  (81  miles)  the  Springfield  Division  of 
the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  diverges,  and  runs  S.  W.  in  111  miles  to 
Springfield  (see  Route  85).  Onarga  (85  miles)  lies  in  the  midst  of 
a  famous  fruit-growing  region.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Onarga  Institution 
and  the  Grand  Prairie  Seminary,  both  of  which  are  flourishing  institu- 
tions. Loda  (99  miles),  beautifully  situated  on  undulating  ground  in 
the  center  of  Grand  Prairie,  is  the  market  for  the  agricultural  products 
of  the  surrounding  country.  Paxton  (103  miles)  is  the  seat  of  a 
Swedish  college  named  the  Augustana  College  of  North  America,  which 
has  in  its  library  5,000  volumes  presented  by  the  King  of  Sweden. 
The  public  schools  of  Paxton  are  noted  for  their  excellence.  Twenty- 
five  miles  beyond  Paxton  is  Champaign  {Doane  House,  Carter),  a 
rapidly  growing  city  of  5,839  inhabitants,  at  the  intersection  of  the 
Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  It  has  a  female 
academy,  a  public  library,  and  3  newspapers.  Here  is  situated  the 
University  of  Illinois.  Tolono  (13*7  miles)  is  a  thriving  village,  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Wabash  R.  R.  (see  Route  79).  Tuscola  (150  miles)  and 
Areola  (158  miles)  are  prosperous  and  rapidly  growing  towns.  Mattoon 
(173  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  Route  79,  and  is  described  in  the  same. 
Effingham  (199  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  Route  80,  and  is  there  de- 
scribed. 


Route  84.]  CHICAGO   TO   CAIRO.  371 

We  have  now  entered  the  great  fruit-growing  region  of  central 
Illinois,  and  for  many  miles  the  road  traverses  a  country  of  wide- 
spreading  and  prolific  orchards.  Kinmunday  (229  miles)  is  noted  for 
the  particularly  fine  fruit  raised  in  its  neighborhood,  and  in  which  it  does 
a  large  trade.  Odin  (244  miles)  is  a  very  prosperous  place,  at  the  crossing 
of  Route  77.  Nine  miles  beyond  Odin  is  Centralia  {Centralia  Hoime)^  a 
busy  little  city  of  4,763  inhabitants,  with  a  coal-mine  and  various  manufac- 
tories. The  cultivation  of  fruit  is  extensively  carried  on  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  vast  quantities  of  peaches  are  shipped  annually  to  Chicago, 
Centralia  is  the  point  of  junction  of  the  Chicago  Div.  and  the  Northern 
Div.  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.,  which  continues  thence  in  a  single  line 
to  Cairo.  Ashley  (266  miles)  is  a  pretty  village,  attractively  situated  on 
a  rolling  and  well  watered  prairie.  Tamaroa  (280  miles)  is  another  place 
which  derives  great  prosperity  from  being  the  market  of  a  rich  fruit- 
growing region.  It  also  has  a  large  coal-shipping  trade,  coal  of  a 
superior  quality  being  found  in  the  vicinity.  Nine  miles  beyond 
Tamaroa  is  Du  Quoin  {St.  Nicholas)^  a  thriving  city  of  some  4,052 
inhabitants,  surrounded  by  highly  productive  prairie-land.  Fruit- 
raising,  tobacco  and  cotton  growing,  and  general  agriculture,  are  im- 
portant sources  of  the  city's  prosperity ;  but  the  principal  business  is 
coal-mining,  about  a  dozen  companies  being  in  active  operation.  At 
Du  Quoin  connection  is  made  with  the  St.  Louis  &  Cairo  Short  Line 
R.  R.  (see  Route  127).  Carhondale  (308  miles)  is  a  busy  town,  with  a 
number  of  cotton-gins,  mills,  etc.,  the  leading  productions  of  the  adja- 
cent plantations  being  cotton  and  tobacco.  About  one  fourth  of  all 
the  tobacco  grown  in  Illinois  is  sent  to  market  from  this  place. 
Jonesboro  (329  miles)  is  the  principal  town  of  the  fruit-region  of 
southern  Illinois,  and  is  also  the  mart  of  large  crops  of  cotton.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  in  a  hilly  country,  about  4  miles  from  the  Missis- 
sippi River.  Limestone  crops  out  among  the  hills,  fine  building-stone 
abounds,  and  iron-ore  is  found  in  the  vicinity.  The  Southern  State 
Insane  Asylum  is  located  here,  and  is  a  handsome  stone  structure. 
Near  the  village  are  some  remarkable  springs  and  caves,  and  5  miles 
N.  is  Bold  Knoh^  the  highest  point  of  land  in  the  State.  Villa  Ridge 
(353  miles)  is  at  the  commencement  of  a  series  of  ridges  or  terraces, 
rising  from  the  Mississippi  River  and  extending  to  and  along  the  Ohio. 
Twelve  miles  beyond,  the  terminus  of  the  road  is  reached  at  Cairo 
[Arlington^  Halliday  House^  Planter'' s)^  a  city  of  10,324  inhabitants,  built 
on  a  low  point  of  land  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
Rivers,  forming  the  southernmost  point  of  the  State.  It  is  connected 
by  steam-ferry  with  Columbus,  Ky.,  where  it  meets  the  Mobile  k  Ohio 
R.  R. ;  and  is  the  point  of  connection  with  the  Southern  Div.  of  the 
Illinois  Central  R.  R.,  which  forms  the  "Great  Jackson  Route"  from 
Chicago  and  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans  (see  Route  127).  Steamers  upon 
the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  make  this  one  of  their  stopping-points.  Cairo 
was  founded  with  the  expectation  that  it  would  become  a  great  com- 
mercial city,  and  large  sums  of  money  were  expended  in  improvements, 
chiefly  in  the  construction  of  levees  to  protect  it  from  inundation. 
During  the  civil  war  it  was  an  important  depot  of  supplies,  and  enjoyed 


3T2  CHICAGO  TO  ST.  LOUIS.  {Route  85. 

great  prosperity,  but  is  now  somewhat  decadent.  The  County  Buildings 
are  large  and  handsome ;  the  U.  S.  Custom-House  is  of  cut  stone,  and 
cost  $200,000. 

The  Northern  Division  or  Main  Line  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  runs  N. 
from  Centralia  in  345  miles  to  Dubuque  (see  Eoute  133),  on  the  Mississippi 
River  ;  and  from  Dubuque  the  loiva  Division  runs  W.  to  Cherokee,  where  a 
branch  runs  N.  W.  to  Sioux  Falls.  Another  branch  runs  S.  W.  to  Onawa,  while 
the  main  line  continues  W.  to  Sioux  City,  on  the  Missouri  River.  The  princi- 
pal places  on  the  Northern  Division  are  Vandalia,  Pana,  Decatur,  Bloomington, 
Mendota,  Dixon,  Freeport,  and  Galena.  Most  of  these  are  described  in  connec- 
tion with  other  routes  (see  Index).  Dubuque  is  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  Iowa 
(see  Route  133),  and  Sioux  City  is  an  important  railway  center. 

Besides  the  foregoing,  the  Chicago  &  Eastern  Illinois  R.  R.  runs  direct  to 
Nashville  by  way  of  Danville,  Terre  Haute,  Vincennes,  and  EvansviUe.  From 
Nashville  connection  is  made  with  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R.,  and  thence 
southward  to  Florida  on  the  east  and  New  Orleans  on  the  west.  This  is  known 
as  the  EvansviUe  Route. 

85.  Chicago  to  St.  Louis. 

By  the  Chicago  &  Alton  R.  R.  Distances  :  Chicago  to  Lockport,  33  miles  ; 
to  Joliet,  37  ;  to  Normal,  124  ;  to  Bloomington,  127  ;  to  Springfield,  185  ;  to 
Alton,  257  ;  to  St.  Louis,  283. 

This  road  runs  S.  W.  through  the  rich  prairie-lands  of  central  Illi- 
nois, which  roll  off  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  on  either  hand.  The 
scenery  is  somewhat  monotonous,  and,  since  the  country  has  become 
thickly  settled,  has  lost  the  distinctive  prairie  character  which  is  now 
seen  to  perfection  only  in  the  W.  part  of  Iowa  and  on  the  plains  beyond 
the  Missouri.  In  leaving  Chicago,  a  number  of  pretty  suburban  villages 
are  passed  in  quick  succession,  and  in  33  miles  the  train  reaches  Lock- 
port^  a  prosperous  town  on  the  Des  Plaines  River  and  on  the  Illinois 
&  Michigan  Canal,  from  which  it  derives  a  fine  water-power.  In  the 
vicinity  are  some  valuable  stone-quarries.  Four  miles  beyond  Lock- 
port  is  Joliet  {Munroe^  St.  Nicholas),  a  city  of  23,264  inhabitants, 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Des  Plaines  River,  and  on  the  Illinois 
&  Michigan  Canal,  at  the  intersection  of  the  present  route  and  the 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  R,  R.  (Route  89  6),  and  Chicago  & 
Alton  R.  R.,  also  the  Chicago,  Santa  Fe  &  California  R.  R.  of  the 
Santa  Fe  System.  It  is  well  built,  and  lighted  with  gas.  The  *  State 
Penitentiaries  and  the  Court-House  are  particularly  fine  and  imposing. 
The  surrounding  country  is  extremely  productive,  and  Joliet  is  its  prin- 
cipal mart  and  shipping-point.  The  canal  and  river  furnish  good  water- 
power,  and  there  are  several  flour-mills,  manufactories  of  agricultural 
implements,  etc.  Near  the  city  are  extensive  quarries  of  a  fine  blue 
and  white  limestone  which  is  much  used  for  building  purposes  through- 
out the  Northwest.  Beyond  Joliet  numerous  small  stations  are  passed, 
of  which  the  principal  are  Wilmington  (52  miles),  Pontiac  (92  miles), 
and  Chenoa  (102  miles).  Normal  (124  miles)  is  a  prosperous  place,  at 
the  crossing  of  the  Northern  Div.  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  largest  nurseries  in  the  State,  and  by  farms  devoted  to 
the  cultivation  of  hedge-plants.  Coal-mines  are  also  worked  in  the 
vicinity.  The  State  Normal  School  and  the  Soldiers'  Orphans'  Home  are 
located  in  the  village.     Two  miles  beyond  is  Bloomington  {Folsom 


Route  85.]  CHICAGO   TO    ST.    LOUIS.  373 

House,  Phmnix  Hotel),  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Illinois,  an  important 
railway  center,  and  the  seat  of  large  shipping  and  manufacturing  inter- 
ests. The  city  has  a  population  of  20,048,  is  handsomely  built,  has  street 
railways  and  steam  fire-engines,  and  is  the  seat  of  several  important 
educational  institutions.  Durley  Hall,  the  Opera-Hoiise,  and  the  Court- 
House  are  large  and  handsome  buildings,  and  several  of  the  churches 
and  school-houses  are  fine  edifices.  The  Illinois  Wesleyan  University 
(Methodist)  is  a  flourishing  institution,  with  200  students  and  a  library 
of  15,000  volumes.  The  3fajor  Female  College  has  a  high  reputation, 
and  there  is  a  female  seminary.  The  construction  and  repair  shops  of 
the  Chicago  k  Alton  R.  R.  are  built  of  stone,  and  with  the  yards  attached 
cover  13  acres  of  ground. 

The  Jacksonville  Division  diverges  at  Blooinington,  and  is  looped  up  to  the 
main  line  again  at  Godfrey.  The  distance  from  Chicago  to  St.  Louis  by  this 
route  is  283  miles.  Numerous  small  towns  and  villages  are  passed  en  route,  but 
the  only  important  place  on  the  line  is  Jacksonville  {Dunlap  Ho:e  and  Pacific 
Hotel),  a  busy  city  of  10,740  inhabitants,  attractively  situated  in  the  midst  of 
an  undulating  and  fertile  prairie,  at  the  intersection  of  several  railroads,  of 
which  the  Wabash  Line  (Route  79)  is  one.  The  streets  are  wide  and  adorned 
with  shade-trees  ;  the  houses  are  for  the  most  part  well  built,  and  surrounded 
with  flower-gardens  and  shrubbery.  Jacksonville  is  the  seat  of  the  State  Insti- 
tution for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  ;  of  the  State  Institution  for 
the  Blind  ;  of  a  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane  ;  of  the  State  Institution  for  the 
Education  of  Feeble-Minded  Children  ;  and  of  a  private  Asylum  for  the  Insane. 
All  these  have  handsome  buildings.  The  Illinms  College  (Congregational)  and 
the  Illinois  Female  College  (Methodist)  are  flourishing  institutions.  The  former 
has  a  library  of  10,000  volumes,  and  the  latter  of  2,oS),  and  there  is  a  free  pub- 
lic library  of  1,600  volumes. 

Beyond  Bloomington,  on  the  main  line,  six  or  eight  small  stations 
are  passed,  and  in  58  miles  the  train  reaches  Springfield  {Leland 
House,  St.  Nicholas),  the  capital  of  the  State,  a  city  of  24,963  inhab- 
itants, built  on  a  beautiful  prairie,  5  miles  S.  of  the  Sangamon  River. 
Its  streets  are  broad,  paved  with  red  and  white  cedar  blocks,  and  are 
adorned  with  shade-trees.  From  the  beauty  of  the  place  and  its  sur- 
roundings, Springfield  has  been  called  the  "  Flower  City."  The  *  State 
Capitol  is  a  remarkably  fine  building.  Other  noteworthy  buildings  are 
the  IT,  S.  Building  (containing  the  Court-House,  Custom-House,  and 
Post-Office),  the  County  Court-House,  the  State  Arsenal,  the  High- 
School,  the  Opera-House,  and  St.  Johnh  Hosptitcd,  the  German  Lutheran 
College,  a  fine  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building,  and  numerous  churches.  There  are 
a  theatre,  a  commodious  concert  hall,  and  a  lecture  hall.  Two  miles  N. 
of  the  city  is  Oak  Ridge  Cemetery,  a  picturesque  and  well-kept  burying- 
ground  of  72  acres,  containing  the  remains  of  President  Lincoln  and  the 
noble  *  monument  erected  to  his  memory  by  the  Lincoln  Monument  Asso- 
ciation. The  monument  cost  $206,550,  and  was  dedicated  on  Oct.  15,1 874. 
There  are  vast  coal-mines  in  the  vicinity  of  Springfield,  the  surrounding 
country  is  very  productive,  and  the  trade  of  the  city  is  extensive.  The 
principal  manufacturing  establishments  are  flouring-mills,  foundries  and 
machine-shops,  rolling-mills,  woolen-mills,  breweries,  and  a  watch-factory. 
The  extensive  shops  of  the  Wabash  R.  R.  are  worth  visiting.  God- 
frey (251  miles)  is  at  the  junction  of  the  main  line  with  the  Jackson- 
ville Div.,  described  above;   and  6  miles  beyond  is  Alton  {Madison 


374  CHICAGO  TO  MILWAUKEE.  [Route  86. 

Hotel)^  a  prosperous  city  of  10,294  inhabitants,  built  upon  a  high  hme- 
stone  bluff,  overlooking  the  Mississippi  Eiver.  It  is  the  center  of  a 
rich  farming  country,  and,  besides  the  river  navigation,  several  railroads 
connect  it  with  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  manufactures  are  varied 
and  extensive,  and  lime  and  building  stone  are  largely  exported.  There 
are  14  churches,  among  them  a  large  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  Alton 
having  been  made  a  bishopric  in  1868.  The  State  Penitentiary,  estab- 
lished here  in  1827,  was  removed  several  years  since  to  Joliet.  The 
buildings  are  still  standing,  and  were  used  during  the  civil  war  as  a  gov- 
ernment prison.  At  Upper  Alton,  \\  mile  E.  of  the  city,  is  Shurtleff 
College,  an  important  Baptist  institution.  Three  miles  below  Alton  is 
the  confluence  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  At  E.  St.  Louis 
(281  miles)  the  train  crosses  the  Mississippi  on  the  magnificent  St.  Louis 
Bridge.     St.  Louis  (see  Route  81). 

86.  Chicago  to  Milwaukee. 

a.    Via  Mihvaukee  Div.  of  Chicago  <h  Northioedern  R.  R.     85  miles. 

This  road  runs  along  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  through 
a  rich  farming  region,  well  cultivated  and  populous.  The  first  eight  or 
ten  stations  after  leaving  Chicago  are  neat  suburban  villages.  Wauke- 
gan  (36  miles)  is  a  flourishing  town,  with  a  large  export  business  in 
grain,  wool,  and  butter.  Its  site  is  high,  and  it  is  becoming  a  summer 
resort.  A  few  miles  beyond  Waukegan  the  train  crosses  the  boundary- 
line  and  enters  Wisconsin,  soon  reaching  Kenosha  {Grant  House),  a 
city  of  6,532  inhabitants,  built  on  a  bluff,  and  possessed  of  a  good  har- 
bor, with  piers  extending  into  the  lake.  The  manufactures  are  important, 
and  the  city  has  an  extensive  trade.  Eleven  miles  beyond  Kenosha  is 
the  academic  city  of  Racine  {Commercial  Hotel,  Merchants''  Hotel,  Wag- 
ner House),  which  is  the  fourth  city  of  Wisconsin  in  population  and  com- 
merce. It  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Root  River,  on  a  plateau  project- 
ing about  5  miles  into  Lake  Michigan  and  elevated  about  40  ft.  above 
its  level.  Its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  lake,  its  commerce  is 
large,  and  its  manufactures  varied  and  extensive.  The  city  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  with  wide,  well-shaded  streets.  3Iain  St.  is  the  business 
thoroughfare,  and  its  upper  portion  is  lined  with  fine  residences.  Racine 
College  (Episcopal)  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  educational  institutions 
in  the  West,  and  has  commodious  buildings  in  grounds  ten  acres  in  ex- 
tent at  the  upper  end  of  Main  St.  The  public  schools  are  excellent,  and 
the  Roman  Catholics  have  a  flourishing  academy.  Of  the  24  churches, 
several  are  handsome  edifices.  Racine  was  settled  in  1834,  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city  in  1848,  and  in  1890  had  a  population  of  21,014. 
Between  Racine  and  Milwaukee  there  are  no  important  stations. 

b.    Via  Chicago  Div.  of  the  Chicago,  Mihoaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  R. 

85  miles. 

This  route  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  preceding,  but  somewhat 
further  inland. 


Route  86 A  CHICAGO   TO   MILWAUKEE.  375 


Milwaukee. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Plankinton  House.,  fronting  on  Grand  Ave.,  between  W. 
Water  and  2d  Sts. ;  the  Schliiz  Hotel  (European),  at  the  cor.  of  Grand  Ave.  and 
3d  Sts. ;  and  the  Eepublican  House,  Cedar  and  3d  Sts.,  are  first  class.  The  Grand 
Avenue  Hotel,  in  Washington  Square,  is  patronized  by  families.  Three  main 
lines  of  Street-cars  (fare,  5c.),  with  numerous  branches,  converge  on  either  side 
of  Grand  Ave.  bridge.  The  Union  Station,  in  Everett  St.,  is  the  point  of  de- 
parture for  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  and  the  Wisconsin  Central 
R.  Es.  The  depot  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  and  of  the  Milwaukee,  Lake 
Shore  &  Western  E.  Es.  is  at  the  foot  of  Wisconsin  St.  The  Post-Office  is  at 
the  cor.  of  Wisconsin  and  Milwaukee  Sts.  The  Detroit,  Grand  Haven  &  Mil- 
waukee and  the  Flint  &  Pere  Marquette  E.  Es.  run  regular  lines  of  steamers  to 
the  citv,  the  docks  of  which  are  on  the  river,  between  Grand  Ave.  and  E.  Water 
St.  bridges. 

Milwaukee,  the  commercial  capital  of  Wisconsin,  and,  next  to  Chi- 
cago, the  largest  city  in  the  Northwest,  is  situated  on  the  W.  shore 
of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Milwaukee  River.  This  river  flows 
through  the  city,  and  with  the  Menomonee,  with  which  it  forms  a  junc- 
tion, divides  it  into  three  districts,  which  are  severally  known  as  the 
East,  West,  and  South  sides.  The  river  has  been  rendered  navigable 
to  the  heart  of  the  city  by  vessels  of  any  tonnage  used  on  the  lakes, 
and,  with  Milwaukee  Bay,  in  which  the  Government  is  constructing 
breakwaters  on  a  large  scale,  forms  the  best  harbor  on  the  S.  or  W.  shore 
of  the  lake.  A  tunnel  about  half  a  mile  in  length  was  constructed  in 
1888  between  the  lake  and  the  river  north  of  the  city,  through  which, 
by  means  of  the  largest  single  pump  in  the  world,  enough  lake  water  is 
forced  to  change  the  entire  volume  of  water  in  the  river  every  twenty- 
four  hours,  clearing  it  of  all  objectionable  matter.  The  city  embraces 
an  area  of  18  square  miles,  and  is  regularly  laid  out.  The  center,  near 
the  Milwaukee  River,  is  the  business  quarter ;  and  the  E.  and  W.  parts, 
the  former  of  which  is  built  upon  a  high  bluff  overlooking  the  lake, 
while  the  latter  is  still  more  elevated,  are  occupied  by  residences.  The 
low  land  about  the  Menomonee  River  is  occupied  by  manufacturing- 
establishments  of  all  kinds.  The  peculiar  cream-color  of  the  "Mil- 
waukee brick,"  of  which  many  of  the  buildings  are  constructed,  has 
earned  for  it  the  name  of  the  "  Cream  City  of  the  Lakes." 

Milwaukee  was  settled  in  1835,  and  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1846.  Its  popu- 
lation in  1840  v/as  1,712  ;  in  1860,  45,246  ;  in  1870.  71,440  ;  in  1880,  115,587  ;  and 
in  1885  it  amounted  to  162,526,  including  the  former  village  of  Bay  View,  lately 
added  to  the  city.  Its  growth  during  the  last  five  years  has  been  very  rapid, 
and  the  population  in  1890  was  204,468.  The  Germans  constitute  nearly  one 
half  the  entire  population,  and  their  influence  upon  the  social  life  of  the  inhabit- 
ants is  everywhere  seen.  The  commerce  of  Milwaukee  is  very  large,  wheat, 
flour,  and  lumber  being  the  most  important  items.  The  storage  accommoda- 
tions for  grain  comprise  ten  elevators,  with  a  combined  capacity  of  5.730.000 
bushels  ;  and  the  flour-mills  are  on  an  immense  scale.  Butter,  wool,  hides,  and 
coal  are  also  important  articles  of  trade.  The  manufactures  are  very  extensive, 
and  embrace  lager-beer  (which  is  widely  exported),  pig-iron  and  iron  castings, 
leather,  machinery,  agricultural  implements,  steam-boilers,  car-wheels,  furni- 
ture, and  tobacco  and  cigars.    Pork-packing  is  extensively  carried  on. 

The  streets  of  Milwaukee,  except  those  in  the  commercial  quarter, 
are  generally  well  shaded.  East  Wate7'  St.,  Wisconsin  St.,  and  Grand 
Ave.  are  verv  wide  and  handsome  thoroughfares,  and  on  them  are  the 


876  cmcAoo  to  Milwaukee.  [Route  86. 

principal  hotels  and  retail  stores.  In  Washington  Square,  in  Grand 
Ave.,  is  a  Statue  of  Waslmigton,  with  an  allegorical  group  in  bronze, 
modeled  by  R.  H.  Park.  Among  the  public  buildings  is  the  U.  S. 
Custom-House^  which  also  contains  the  Post-Office  and  the  IT.  S.  Courts, 
which   stands   at   the   cor.    of    Wisconsin    and   Milwaukee   Sts.      The 

*  County  Court-House  is  a  large  and  handsome  edifice,  and  from 
the  dome  a  fine  view  of  the  city  is  obtained.  The  *  Chamber  ot 
Commerce  occupies  a  large  building  cor.  of  Broadway  and  Michigan 
St.  West  of  it  is  the  Mitchell  Building.  The  Davidson  Opera- 
House^  on  3d  St.,  and  the  Bijou  Opera-House^  on  2d  St.,  are  new  and 
elegant  structures.  The  New  Academy  is  also  a  good  theatre,  and  the 
Opera-House  is  a  fine  building,  which  is  now  used  for  theatrical  perform- 
ances in  German  by  an  excellent  stock  company.  *  Schlitz  Park,  in 
Walnut  St.,  is  a  fine  garden  in  the  European  style,  with  a  theatre,  that 
is  regularly  occupied  during  the  summer  by  an  Enghsh  opera  company 
for  high-class  performances,  and  has  a  tower  which  affords  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  city.  The  finest  church-edifice  in  the  city  is  St.  PauVs 
(Episcopal).  The  St.  James  (Episcopal)  Churchy  the  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral  of  St.  Johyi,  and  the  Trinity  Lutheran^  are  handsome.  Of 
the  literary  institutions  the  most  prominent  are  the  Mihvaukee  College 
(for  young  ladies) ;  the  Marquette  College^  under  the  charge  of  the  Jesuit 
fathers ;  and  one  of  the  five  State  normal  schools.  Four  miles  S.  of  the 
city  is  the  large  Catholic  Seminary  of  St.  Francis  of  Sales.  The  Public 
Library^  in  Grand  Ave.,  has  a  collection  of  50,000  volumes,  and  a  well- 
supplied  reading-room.  The  *  Exposition  Building  contains  also 
the  Public  Museum^  which  is  open  free,' on  Sundays  from  9  a.  m.  to  12  m., 
other  days  from  1  to  5.30  p.  m.  The  *  Layton  Art  Gallery  is  at  the 
cor.  of  Jefferson  and  Mason  Sts.,  from  a  design  by  G.  A.  Audsley.     The 

*  Northwestern  National  Asylum  (for  disabled  soldiers)  is  an  im- 
mense brick  building,  about  3  miles  from  the  city,  having  accommoda- 
tions for  2,000  inmates.  The  institution  has  a  reading-room,  and  a  library 
of  5,000  volumes.  The  grounds  embrace  425  acres,  more  than  half  of 
which  is  under  cultivation,  the  residue  being  laid  out  as  a  park.  In  the 
city  there  are  five  orphan  asylums,  a  Home  for  the  Friendless,  three 
Homes  for  the  Aged,  an  industrial  school  for  girls,  and  six  hospitals. 
The  large  and  well-appointed  county  hospital  and  insane  asylum  are  at 
Wauwatosa,  5  miles  W.  of  the  city.  Several  of  the  indiistrial  establish- 
ments are  well  worth  a  visit,  especially  one  of  the  *  Grain-Elevators 
in  the  Menomonee  Valley.  The  seven  flour-mills  have  a  capacity  of 
8,350  barrels  of  flour  daily.  The  breweries  are  large  and  numerous,  and 
iu  1889  the  combined  product  reached  the  amount  of  1,413,447  barrels. 
The  rolling-mills  of  the  Illinois  Steel  Co.,  at  Bay  View,  and' the  Reliance 
Iron- Works,  in  Clinton  St.,  are  very  extensive,  the  latter  being  the  largest 
engine-manufacturers  and  mill-furnishers  in  the  world. 

The  bluff  on  the  lake-shore  has  been  laid  out  as  a  park,  and  named 
Juneau  Park.  A  delightful  drive  is  over  the  White-Fish  Pay  road,  ex- 
tending 5  miles  along  the  lake,  N.  of  the  city. 


Route  87.]  CHICAGO  TO   ST.    PAUL.  377 


87.  Chicago  to  St.  Paul. 

a.    Via  Mihoaukee  and  La  Crosse,  and  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul 
R.  R.     Distance,  ^20  miles.     Time,  about  IS  hours. 

Three  through  trains  run  daily  each  way  on  this  route.  Brookfield 
(13  miles)  is  at  the  junction  with  the  Pi^airie  du  Chien  Div.  Water- 
town  (43  miles)  is  a  small  village  on  the  Rock  River.  Connection  is 
made  here  with  the  Wisconsin  Division  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern 
R.  R.  From  Watertown  Junction  (44  miles)  a  branch  road  runs  W.  in 
37  miles  to  Madison  (see  present  Route),  while  the  present  route  con- 
tinues N.  W.  and  soon  reaches  Columbus  (63  miles),  a  pleasant  tillage  of 
some  1,97*7  inhabitants,  on  the  Crawfish  River.  Twenty-eight  miles  be- 
yond Columbus  is  Portage  City  (Corning  House,  Umder^s),  sitnated  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Wisconsin  River,  and  on  the  canal  con- 
necting the  Fox  and  the  Wisconsin,  at  the  junction  of  three  divisions  of 
the  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  R,  It  has  a  population  of  5,143,  does  a 
large  trade  with  the  surrounding  country,  and  the  water-power  furnished 
by  the  canal  is  extensively  used  in  manufactures.  The  R.  R.  Co.  has 
repair-shops  here,  and  there  are  8  churches,  a  fine  Court-House  and  Jail, 
and  a  handsome  High-School  building.  Tomah  (153  miles)  is  a  growing 
place  at  the  crossing  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  R. ;  and 
Sparta  (170  miles)  is  situated  on  the  La  Crosse  River,  in  a  very  fertile 
valley.  Twenty-five  miles  beyond  Sparta  the  train  reaches  La  Crosse 
{Cameron,  Law),  a  city  of  25,090  inhabitants  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Black  and  La  Crosse  Rivers.  It  is 
finely  situated  on  a  level  prairie,  and  has  many  handsome  buildings,  in- 
cluding the  Court-House,  which  cost  $40,000,  the  Post-Office,  an  Opera- 
House,  and  the  High-School  building.  There  are  flourishing  graded 
schools,  a  Young  Men's  Library  of  2,400  volumes,  and  17  churches. 
The  city  has  an  extensive  trade  in  lumber,  and  contains  9  saw-mills,  3 
foundries  and  machine-shops,  a  large  manufactory  of  saddlery  and 
harness,  and  various  other  establishments. 

At  La  Crosse  the  train  crosses  the  Mississippi  and  follows  its  W. 
bank  all  the  way  to  St.  Paul,  amid  remarkably  picturesque  scenery. 
On  the  bank  of  the  river,  28  miles  from  La  Crosse,  is  the  prosperous 
little  city  of  Winona  ( The  Winona,  Jewell  House),  charmingly  situated 
on  a  plain  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river  for  several  miles. 
Being  somewhat  sheltered  by  the  high  bluffs  which  line  the  river  above 
and  below,  it  is  thought  to  oifer  conditions  favorable  to  consumptives, 
and  has  some  reputation  as  a  winter  resort.  The  streets  of  the  city  are 
wide,  and  the  business  portion  is  compactly  built  of  brick  and  stone. 
The  First  State  Normcd  School  is  located  here,  and  has  a  fine  building 
which  cost  S145,000.  The  High-School  building  cost  $55,000,  and  there 
are  several  handsome  churches.  Winona  is  one  of  the  most  important 
lumber-distributing  points  on  the  LTpper  Mississippi,  and  as  a  grain- 
shipping-point  it  ranks  among  the  first  in  the  Northwest.  Two  rail- 
roads converge  here,  and  manufacturing  is  extensively  carried  on.  The 
population  of  the  city  is  18,208.     Wabasha  (256  miles)  does  a  large 


378  CHICAGO   TO   ST.    PAUL.  [Boute  87. 

grain-shipping  business  with  the  productive  Chippewa  Valley.  Heed^s 
Landi7ig  (262  miles)  is  at  the  foot  of  the  beautiful  expansion  of  the 
river  known  as  Lake  Pepin.  Lake  City  (268  miles)  stands  upon  a  level 
plain  at  the  foot  of  high  bluffs,  and  is  the  port  of  a  rich  farming  dis- 
trict. It  has  a  population  of  2,128,  and  is  growing  rapidly.  Fronte- 
nac  (2*79  miles)  lies  in  the  center  of  the  lake  region,  and  is  a  favorite 
resort  in  summer  on  account  of  its  fine  scenery,  and  the  hunting,  bath- 
ing, fishing,  and  sailing  which  it  affords.  Besides  the  sport  furnished 
by  Lake  Pepin,  there  are  fine  trout-fishing  in  the  streams  and  deer-hunt- 
ing in  the  woods  of  Wisconsin,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  while 
prairie-chickens  are  found  in  abundance  in  the  country  back  of  the  vil- 
lage. At  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin,  6  miles  beyond  Frontenac,  is  Red 
Wing  {St.  James  Hotel)^  a  well-built  city  of  6,277  inhabitants,  beauti- 
fully situated  on  a  broad  level  plain,  which  extends  to  the  foot  of  some 
majestic  bluffs.  It  is  a  favorite  summer  resort,  and,  being  thoroughly 
protected  by  high  hills,  is  also  a  desirable  winter  residence  for  consump- 
tives. It  is  the  port  and  market  of  a  fertile  region,  and  considerable 
manufacturing  is  done  here.  Twenty-one  miles  beyond  Ked  Wing  is  the 
thriving  city  of  Hastings  {American  House.,  Bailey  House)^  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Vermilion  River,  which  here  falls  110  ft.  in  -J  mile 
and  furnishes  abundant  water-power.  The  population  is  3,705,  and  the 
principal  manufactories  are  4  flour-mills,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  shingle-mill. 
The  Central  School-House  is  a  fine  building ;  there  are  2  Catholic 
schools,  and  8  churches.  The  train  again  crosses  the  river  at  Hastings, 
and  passes  in  20  miles  to  St.  Paul. 

h.  Via  the  Prairie  du  Chien  Division  of  the  Chicago^  Milwaukee  d;  St. 
Paul  R.  R.  Distance^  Ii,10  miles.  Time^  16  hours. 
Two  through  trains  run  daily  each  way  on  this  route.  Brookfield 
(14  miles)  is  at  the  junction  with  the  La  Crosse  Div.  described  above. 
Waukesha  (21  miles)  is  a  thriving  village  on  the  Fox  River,  built  on  the 
edge  of  a  beautiful  praii'ie.  The  Court-House  and  Jail  are  constructed 
of  a  superior  quality  of  limestone,  found  in  abundance  in  the  immediate 
vicinity.  Whiteivater  (51  miles)  is  another  busy  village,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  rich  farming  region,  and  actively  engaged  in  manufactures.  At 
Milton  Jmiction  (64  miles)  a  branch  line  diverges  to  Monroe,  while  the 
St.  Paul  train  passes  on  in  32  miles  to 

Madison. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Park  Hotel,  near  the  State  Capitol,  is  a  first-class  house. 
The  Ton-ya-wa-tha  Hotel,  Capitol  House,  Oqden  House,  and  Simons  Hotel  are 
also  good.  Prices  are  from  $1.50  to  $3  a  day.  There  are  also  several  large 
summer  boarding-houses. 

Madison,  with  a  population  of  some  13,426,  is  at  once  a  State  capi- 
tal, a  flourishing  commercial  center,  and  a  popular  summer  resort.  It 
lies  in  the  very  heart  of  the  "Four-Lake  Countr}^,"  so  called  from  a 
chain  of  beautiful  lakes  which  extend  over  a  distance  of  16  miles,  and 
discharge  their  surplus  waters  into  Yahara  or  Catfish  River,  a  tributary 
of  Rock  River.     Mendota  or  Fourth  Lake,  the  uppermost  and  largest,  is 


Route  87.]  CHICAG-0   TO    ST.    PAUL.  379 

7  miles  long,  5  miles  wide,  and  from  50  to  80  ft.  deep  in  some  places. 
It  is  fed  chiefly  by  springs,  and  has  beautiful  white  gravelly  shores 
and  pure  cold  water.  3Ionona  or  Tliird  Lake  is  3^^  miles  long  and  2 
miles  wide ;  and  Lakes  Wauhesa  and  Kegonsa  are  each  about  3  miles 
long  by  2  in  width.  The  city  lies  between  Lakes  Mendota  and  Monona. 
It  is  about  3  miles  in  length  by  1  mile  in  breadth,  and  has  wide, 
straight,  and  regular  streets,  with  many  fine  buildings.  The  *  State 
Capitol  stands  in  a  square  park  of  14  acres,  and  has  recently  been 
enlarged  and  improved  at  a  cost  of  about  $550,000.  The  Court-Hoiise 
(a  handsome  building,  costing  $200,000)  and  Jail  are  situated  near 
the  S.  cor.  of  the  park;  and  in  an  adjacent  street  is  a  United  States 
Post-Office  and  Court-House.,  which  cost  about  $400,000.  The  Uni- 
versity of  Wisconsin  stands  on  a  picturesque  eminence  called  Col- 
lege Hill,  about  a  mile  W.  of  the  Capitol,  and  125  ft.  above  the  lakes. 
There  are  five  faculties,  and  an  Agricultural  Experiment  Station.  It 
has  900  students,  and  a  library  of  25,000  volumes.  Washburn  Ob- 
servatory contains  a  telescope  of  15  j  inches  aperture,  and  the  Wood- 
man astronomical  library.  The  views  from  this  point  are  extremely 
fine.  The  State  Hospital  for  the  Insa7ie,  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Mendota, 
4  miles  N.  of  the  Capitol,  is  a  vast  and  massive  building,  surrounded  by 
grounds  containing  393  acres.  The  Wisconsin  Historical  Society  has  an 
interesting  collection  of  relics  in  a  wing  of  the  Capitol,  and  a  valuable 
library  of  140,000  volumes.  The  State  Library  contains  7,500  volumes, 
and  there  is  a  fine  City  Library  containing  12,000  volumes.  The  new 
Fuller  Opera-House  cost  $60,000,  and  will  seat  1,500  people.  There 
are  several  handsome  churches  in  the  city,  and  some  fine  villa  residences 
in  the  outskirts.  Small  steamers  ply  on  Lakes  Mendota  and  Monona, 
and  afford  agreeable  excursions.  Lake  Mendota  is  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  lakes,  and  from  Monona  the  finest  views  of  the  city  are  obtained. 
On  the  shores  of  the  latter  are  the  Monona  Lake  Assembly  Grounds., 
and  a  well-patronized  summer  hotel.  The  climate  of  Madison  is  de- 
lightfully cool  and  invigorating  in  summer.  The  Freeport  Div.  of  the 
Illinois  Central  R.  R.  connects  Madison  by  way  of  Freeport  with  the 
south. 

Beyond  Madison  the  St.  Paul  train  passes  a  number  of  small  sta- 
tions, but  none  requiring  mention  until  Prairie  du  Chien  (194  miles ; 
Commercial  and  Lepjot  Hotels)  is  reached.  Prairie  du  Chien  is  a  town 
of  about  3,131  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  2  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wisconsin,  on  a  beautiful  prairie 
which  is  9  miles  long  and  1  mile  wide,  bordered  on  the  E.  by  high 
bluffs.  It  is  an  important  local  shipping-point,  and  has  varied  and 
important  manufactures.  St.  Johi's  College  and  St.  Mary''s  Ferncde 
Institute  are  under  the  control  of  the  Roman  Catholics.  The  public 
schools  are  well  conducted.  Leaving  Prairie  du  Chien,  the  train  crosses 
the  river  to  McGregor.,  Iowa,  a  flourishing  town,  and  runs  W.  by  several 
small  villages.  Calmar  (238  miles)  is  a  village  of  2,074  inhabitants  at 
the  junction  with  the  Iowa  &  Dakota  Division.  Turning  now  to  the  N., 
the  road  soon  enters  Minnesota  and  reaches  Austin  (306  miles),  a  pros- 
perous village,  pleasantly  situated  on  Red  Cedar  River.     Ramsey  (309 


380.  CHICAGO   TO   ST.    PAUL.  [Route  87. 

miles)  is  at  the  junction  with  the  Southern  Minnesota  Div.,  and  Oimtonna 
(339  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  R.  R.  Fif- 
teen miles  beyond  Owatonna  is  Faribault  [A^^lington  and  Brunswick)^ 
one  of  the  most  populous  and  prosperous  interior  towns  in  the  State.  In 
1853  it  was  the  site  of  Alexander  Faribault's  trading-post ;  since  IBS'? 
its  growi;h  has  been  rapid,  and  the  population  in  1890  was  6,524.  It 
is  the  seat  of  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Blind,  and 
of  an  Episcopal  Academy,  and  contains  several  other  schools,  6  or  8 
churches,  2  weekly  new^spapers,  2  national  banks,  and  several  floiir- 
mills,  saw-mills,  foundries,  etc.  Between  Faribault  and  St.  Paul  the 
only  important  station  is  Northfield^  where  are  located  Carlton  College 
(Congregational)  and  St.  Olaf's  College  (Lutheran). 

St.  Paul. 

Hotels.— The  leading  hotels  are  the  Ryan  and  Aberdeen,  $3  to  $6  a  day  ; 
the  Merchants',  Windsor,  and  Metropolitan,  $2.50  to  $4  a  day.' 

Opera-Houses. — The  Meiropoliian  and  Grand,  both  built  in  1890,  with  all 
the  modern  improvements. 

St.  Paul,  the  capital  of  Minnesota,  is  a  beautiful  city,  with  133,156 
inhabitants  in  1890,  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
2,200  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  the  head  of  navigation.  It  was  for- 
merly confined  to  the  east  bank,  the  site  embracing  four  distinct  terraces, 
forming  a  natural  amphitheatre  with  a  southern  exposure,  and  conform- 
ing to  the  curve  of  the  river.  The  city  is  built  principally  upon  the  sec- 
ond and  third  terraces,  which  widen  into  level,  semicircular  plains,  the 
last,  about  90  ft.  above  the  river,  being  underlaid  with  a  stratum  of  blue 
limestone  from  12  to  20  ft.  thick,  of  which  many  of  the  buildings  are 
constructed. 

The  first  recorded  visit  to  the  site  of  St.  Paul  was  made  by  Father  Hennepin, 
a  Jesuit  missionary,  in  1680.  Eighty-six  years  afterward,  Jonathan  Carver 
came  there  and  made  a  treaty  with  the  Dakota  Indians,  in  what  is  now  known 
as  Carver's  Cave.  The  first  treaty  of  the  United  States  with  the  Sioux,  throw- 
ing their  lands  open  to  settlement,  was  made  in  1837,  and  the  first  claim  was 
entered  by  Pierre  Parent,  a  Canadian  voyagetir,  who  sold  it  in  1839  for  $30.  It 
is  the  present  site  of  the  principal  part  of  the  city.  The  first  building  was 
erected  in  1838,  and  for  several  years  thereafter  it  was  simply  an  Indian  trading- 
post.  It  was  laid  out  into  village  streets  in  1847,  and  a  city  government  was  ob- 
tained in  1854,  when  the  place  contained  about  3,000  inhabitants.  It  derives  its 
name  from  that  of  a  log  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Paul  by  a  Jesuit  missionary  in 
1841. 

In  1890  St.  Paul  had  351  miles  of  well-graded — including  41  miles 
of  block  and  asphalt  paved — streets,  and  123  miles  of  the  best  system 
of  sewerage.  The  streets  are  lighted  with  gas  and  electricity.  The 
street  railway  system  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  with  15  miles  of 
cable  and  85  miles  of  electric  service ;  fare,  5  cents,  including  transfer. 
All  the  lines  are  owned  by  one  company,  and  include  an  interurban 
line,  St.  Paul  to  Minneapolis,  distance  10  miles ;  fare,  10  cents,  includ- 
ing transfer  in  each  city.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  State 
Capitol  and  the  U.  S.  Custom- House,  which  also  contains  the  Post-Office. 
A  fine  Court-House  and  City  Hall  has  just  been  completed,  at  a  cost  of 
$1,014,000.     There  are  188  churches  of  all  denominations  in  the  city. 


Rovte  57.]  CHICAGO   TO    ST.    PAUL.  381 

There  are  four  public  and  as  many  private  circulating  libraries,  the 
former  including  the  State  Law  Library  and  those  of  the  Historical 
Society  and  Library  Association,  comprising  together  about  24,000  vol- 
umes. T\\e  Academy  of  Sci€7ices  Qontoms.  about  126,000  specimens  in 
natural  history.  The  public  and  private  schools  are  noted  for  their 
excellence,  the  latter  including  several  colleges  and  female  seminaries  of 
a  high  grade.  There  are  three  free  hospitals,  managed  by  the  county 
and  church  organizations,  and  a  Protestant  and  a  Roman  Catholic 
orphan  asylum.  The  Minnesota  Cliih  has  an  attractive  building. 
Among  the  fine  business  buildings  may  be  mentioned  the  Pioneer  Press^ 
13  stories  high  ;  Glohe^  10  stories  ;  the  Nev:  York  Life^  Germania  Life^ 
Germankt  Bank^  National  German- American  BanJc^  Merchants'  Na- 
tional Bank,  Endicott  Arcade,  Grand  Arcade,  and  the  Manhattan 
Building ;  also,  the  General  Office-Buildings  of  the  Great  Northern  R.  R., 
Northern  Pacific  R.  R.,  and  the  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Omaha 
R.  R.  Many  of  the  mercantile  houses  have  new  and  costly  buildings. 
The  jobbing  business  of  St.  Paul  during  the  decade  of  the  eighties  in- 
creased from  $46,500,000  to  $122,250,000,  and  the  manufacturing 
from  $15,500,000  to  $61, '750,000.  St.  Paul  has  21  banks,  with  cap- 
ital and  surplus  of  $10,500,000.  St.  Paul  is  the  railway  center  for  the 
Northwest,  28  railroads  radiating  from  this  city ;  several  hundred  pas- 
senger-trains arrive  and  depart  daily.  There  are  69  newspapers  pub- 
lished in  St.  Paul,  of  which  9  are  dailies  and  40  weekly.  The  city  has 
32  public  parks  and  squares,  and  owns  its  water-works,  which  supplies 
8,000,000  gallons  of  water  daily  from  a  chain  of  spring-fed  lakes.  The 
average  tempeiature  is  43*5°,  and  average  precipitation  28-99. 

There  are  many  beautiful  drives  in  and  around  St.  Paul,  includ- 
ing the  justly  renowned  Summit  Ave.  and  Boulevard,  and  many 
places  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  city  which  can  be  reached  either  by 
carriage  or  by  rail.  Of  these  the  most  popular  is  White  Bear  Lake,  10 
miles  distant,  on  the  St.  Paul  &  Duluth  R,  R.  It  is  about  9  miles  in 
circumference,  with  picturesque  shores,  and  an  island  in  its  center.  Bcdd- 
Eagle  Lake,  a  mile  beyond  White  Bear  Lake,  is  noted  for  its  fishing  and 
picturesque  scenery,  and  is  a  popular  resort  for  picnic-parties.  '^Min- 
nehaha Falls,  immortalized  by  Longfellow,  are  reached  by  the  cars  of  the 
Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  R.  The  Falls  are  picturesquely  situ- 
ated, but  they  hardly  merit  the  prominence  that  Longfellow's  poem 
has  obtained  for  them.  Lake  Como  is  reached  by  a  drive  of  3  miles 
from  the  center  of  the  city.  The  boating  here  is  excellent,  and  Como 
Park,  comprising  several  hundred  acres,  is  located  on  its  shores.  Adjoin- 
ing the  park  are  the  Fair  Grounds  of  the  State  Agricultural  Society, 
and  the  State  experimental  farm  of  300  acres.  Fort  Snelling,  at  the 
western  limits  of  the  city,  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  is  easily  reached 
by  carriage  or  electric  cars  on  West  Yth  St. 

Thirty  years  ago,  Indian  tepees  stood  on  the  site  of  the  Union  Depot 
in  St.  Paul,  from  where  hundreds  of  passenger-trains  now  go  and  come 
every  day.  Then,  the  bell  of  the  little  Chapel  of  St.  Paul,  occupying  a 
spot  on  a  bluff  high  above  the  Father  of  Waters,  called  a  few  hundred 
people  to  worship.    Now  more  than  a  hundred  church-spires  rise  above 


382  CHICAGO   TO    ST.    PAUL.  [Boute  87. 

the  homes  of  a  large  and  flourishing  population.  The  pioneer  railroad 
was  the  St.  Paul  &  Pacific,  now  the  Great  Northern.  With  4  tracks, 
it  is  the  main  thoroughfare  between  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  passing 
en  route  through  the  suburban  towns  of  Ilamline,  the  seat  of  a  pros- 
perous Methodist  University,  and  adjoining  the  extensive  grounds  of 
the  State  Agricultural  Society ;  St.  Anthony  Park,  with  many  pretty 
residences,  is  next;  and  then  University,  containing  the  spacious 
buildings  and  grounds  of  the  State  University,  Agricultural  College,  and 
Experimental  Station,  a  public  educational  institution  having  the  largest 
State  endowment  in  the  United  States.  A  mile  distant  lies  East 
Minneapolis,  with  its  Exposition  Building;  and  then  the  train 
glides  across  the  Mississippi  River  on  a  stone-arch  curved  bridge  in 
full  view  of  St.  Anthony  Falls  and  the  largest  flouring-mills  in  the 
world,  which  have  a  daily  output  of  100,000  barrels. 

Minneapolis  [West  House  and  Nicollet  House)  is  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  and  the  city  limits  join  those  of  St.  Paul,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  3  lines  of  railway  and  electric  cars.  It  is  built  on  a 
broad  esplanade  overlooking  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  and  the  river, 
which  is  bordered  at  various  points  by  picturesque  bluffs.  The  city  is 
regularly  laid  out,  with  avenues  running  E.  and  W.,  and  streets  crossing 
them  N.  and  S.  They  are  generally  80  ft.  wide,  with  20-ft.  sidewalks, 
and  2  rows  of  trees  on  each  side.  There  are  many  substantial  business 
blocks  and  elegant  residences.  The  Court-House^  City  Hall^  Opera- 
House^  Chamber  of  Commerce^  Guaranty  Loan,  Lumber  Exchange,  Teita- 
ple  Court  and  Syndicate  Block,  and  the  Minneapolis  Exposition,  are 
noticeable  structures.  The  Public  Library,  with  its  building  cor.  Hen- 
nepin Ave.  and  10th  St.,  contains  more  than  42,000  vols.,  and  that  of 
the  University  of  Minnesota  upward  of  25,000  vols.  Besides  the  Univer- 
sity, there  are  several  other  important  educational  institutions ;  the  pub- 
lic schools  are  numerous  and  good,  and  the  High-School  and  Public- 
School  buildings  are  worthy  of  note.  The  number  of  churches  is  about 
125,  including  all  the  denominations.  The  business  prosperity  of  Minne- 
apolis and  St.  Anthony  is  owing  to  the  *  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  which 
afford  abundant  water-power  for  manufacturing  purposes.  The  fall  is 
18  ft.  perpendicular,  with  a  rapid  descent  of  82  ft.  within  2  miles.  The 
rapids  above  the  cataract  are  very  fine — in  fact  much  finer  than  the  fall 
itself,  the  picturesqueness  of  which  has  been  destroyed  by  the  wooden 
"curtain"  erected  to  prevent  the  wearing  away  of  the  ledge.  The  falls 
can  be  seen  wdth  about  equal  advantage  from  either  shore,  but  the  best 
view  is  from  the  center  of  the  suspension-bridge  above  the  falls  or  the 
bridge  of  the  Great  Northern  R.  R.  Minneapolis  is  the  center  of  im- 
mense lumber  and  flouring  interests,  and  had  a  population  of  164,738 
in  1890.  It  is  the  largest  flour-manufacturing  place  in  the  world. 
Twenty-four  mills  have  a  capacity  of  44,100  barrels  a  day.  Wheat 
receipts  in  1890,45,2*71,910  bushels.  The  output  of  the  flouring-mill 
products  in  1890  was  6,988,830  barrels,  valued  at  upward  of  $30,000,- 
000.  The  city  has  a  splendid  system  of  electric  street-cars.  The  streets 
are  well  lighted  with  gas  and  electricity.  The  city  owns  the  water-works, 
and  draws  the  supply  from  the  Mississippi  River,    Water  for  family 


Route  88.]  CHICAGO    TO    ST.    PAUL.  383 

use  is  largely  supplied  from  springs  a  few  miles  out  of  the  city,  and  is 
a  private  enterprise,  the  water  being  delivered  by  wagons,  and  sold  by 
the  gallon. 

88.  Chicago  to  St.  Paul. 

By  the  Chicago  &  St.  Paul  Div.  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  E.  R.  Two 
through  trains  daily,  with  palace  and  dining  cars  attached,  run  on  this  line, 
making  the  journey  in  1?-J-  hours.  Distances  :  Chicago  to  Montrose,  8  miles  ; 
to  Crystal  Lake,  43  ;  to  Beloit,  91  ;  to  Madison,  139  ;  to  Elrov,  213  ;  to  Black 
Pdvef  Falls.  266  ;  to  Eau  Claire,  322  ;  to  Menomonee,  348  ;  to  Hudson,  390 ;  to 
St.  Paul,  409. 

Leaving  the  Chicago  station  (cor.  Wells  and  Kinzie  Sts.),  the  train 
passes  in  8  miles  to  the  pretty  suburban  village  of  Montrose^  and  soon 
reaches  Crystal  Lake  (43  miles),  a  neat  village  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  small  lake  of  the  same  name.  The  first  important  station  on  the 
line  is  Beloit  (90  miles ;  Goodwin  House^  Grand),  a  flourishing  city 
of  6,315  inhabitants,  situated  on  both  sides  of  Rock  River,  at  the  mouth 
of  Turtle  Creek.  It  is  built  on  a  beautiful  plain,  from  which  the  ground 
rises  abruptly  to  a  height  of  50  to  60  ft.,  affording  excellent  sites  for 
residences.  The  city  is  noted  for  its  broad,  beautifully-shaded  streets, 
and  for  its  fine  churches ;  the  First  Congregational  Church,  constructed 
of  gray  limestone,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  in  the  State. 
Beloit  College  (Congregational),  founded  in  1847,  is  a  flourishing  institu- 
tion, with  about  250  students  and  a  library  of  7,200  volumes.  Beloit  is 
surrounded  by  a  fine  prairie  country,  which  is  dotted  with  numerous 
groves  of  timber.  The  city  is  well  supplied  with  water-power,  and  has 
several  flouring-mills,  several  manufactories  of  woolen  goods,  reapers, 
scales,  carriages,  etc.  The  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  R.  inter- 
sects here.  The  small  stations  of  Hanover  (104  miles)  and  Evansville 
(116  miles)  are  now  passed,  and  the  train  speedily  reaches  Madison 
(138  miles),  the  capital  of  Wisconsin,  which  has  already  been  described 
(see  Route  87  6). 

Beyond  Madison  the  train  runs  N.  W.  by  a  number  of  unimportant 
villages  to  Elroy  (213  miles).  From  Elroy  the  Madison  Division  runs 
W.  to  La  Crosse  and  Winona  (both  described  in  Route  87  «),  while  the 
present  route  traverses  the  pine-covered  portion  of  Wisconsin.  Blacl<: 
River  Fcdls  (266  miles)  and  Aiigiista  (299  miles)  are  rapidly-growing  vil- 
lages, near  extensive  pine-forests.  Eait  Claire  (322  miles),  the  capital 
of  Eau  Claire  County,  is  a  township  of  17,415  inhabitants,  on  the  Chip- 
pewa River.  .  It  has  an  important  trade  in  lumber,  and  several  large  saw- 
mills are  in  operation.  Menomonee  (348  miles)  is  another  busy  lumber- 
ing village  on  the  Menomonee  River,  down  which  are  floated  immense 
numbers  of  logs  from  the  vast  forests  above.  Forty-six  miles  beyond 
Menomonee  is  Hudson  ( Commercial  Hotel),  the  most  important  place 
on  this  section  of  the  road,  a  flourishing  village  of  2,885  inhabitants,  on 
the  E.  shore  of  Lake  St.  Croix.  Twenty  miles  beyond  Hudson  the  train 
reaches  St.  Paul  (see  Route  %^h). 

Another  desirable  route  from  Chicago  to  St.  Paul  is  known  as  the  "Albert 
Lea  "  route.  It  consists  of  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  R.  E.  to  West 
Liberty  ;•  of  the  Buriicgton,  Cedar  Rapids  &  Northern  R.  R.  from  West  Liberty 


384  CHICAGO   TO   OMAHA.  [Route  89. 

to  Albert  Lea  ;  and  of  the  Minneapolis  &  St.  Louis  E.  R.  from  Albert  Lea  to 
Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul.  The  distances  are  :  from  Chicago  to  West  Liberty, 
222  miles  ;  West  Liberty  to  Albert  Lea,  191 ;  Albert  Lea  to  St.  Paul,  100  ;  mak- 
ing a  total  distance  of  513  miles. 

89.  Chicago  to  Omaha. 

a.  Via  Chicago  &  Northwestern  R.  R.    Distance,  ^9S  miles. 

Four  through  trains,  with  palace  sleeping  and  "Northwestern  din- 
ing "  cars  attached,  run  each  way  on  this  route.  The  road  traverses  for 
the  larger  portion  of  the  way  the  great  prairie-region  of  the  West,  which 
fifty  years  ago  was  uninhabited,  save  by  the  Indian  and  the  trapper,  but 
which  now  teems  with  an  industrious  and  thriving  population.  Many  of 
the  towns  and  cities  en  route  exhibit  the  unmistakable  symptoms  of 
wealth  and  prosperity,  but  there  are  very  few  which  possess  any  features 
of  special  interest  to  the  tourist.  Geneva  (35  miles)  and  Dixon  (97 
miles)  are  pleasant  villages,  with  a  large  trade  and  important  manufact- 
ures. From  Dixon  the  train  follows  the  Rock  River  for  10  miles  to 
Sterling  {Gait  House),  a  city  of  5,824  inhabitants,  attractively  situated 
on  the  N.  bank.  The  river  at  this  point  is  spanned  by  a  dam  of  solid 
masonry  1,100  ft.  long  and  7  ft.  high,  which  with  the  9  ft.  natural 
fall  of  the  rapids  above  affords  an  immense  water-power.  The  city  is 
chiefly  devoted  to  manufacturing,  and  the  articles  produced  are  remark- 
ably varied  and  valuable.  The  St.  Louis  Div.  of  the  Chicago,  Burling- 
ton &  Quincy  R.  R.  begins  here.  Fulton  (135  miles)  is  the  last  station 
in  Illinois ;  and  here  the  train  crosses  the  Mississippi  River  on  a  magnifi- 
cent iron  *  bridge  4,100  ft.  long,  with  a  draw  300  ft.  long.  From  the 
center  of  the  bridge,  looking  up  tlae  river,  there  is  a  fine  view,  taking  in 
three  towns.  At  the  Iowa  end  of  the  bridge  is  the  prosperous  city  of 
Clinton  {Revere  House,  Windsor),  with  a  population  of  13,619,  the  exten- 
sive repair-shops  of  the  C.  &  N.  R.  R.,  and  a  large  number  of  saw-mills, 
one  of  which  is  capable  of  producing  200,000  ft.  of  lumber  a  day.  From 
Clinton  to  Cedar  Rapids  the  road  traverses  a  rolling  prairie,  dotted  with 
a  succession  of  small  but  thriving  towns,  and  relieved  from  monotony  by 
numerous  plantations  of  trees.  Cedar  Rapids,  Iowa  (219  miles ;  Clif- 
ton House,  Grand  Hotel,  and  Pxdlman  Hotel),  is  a  rapidly  growing  city  of 
18,020  inhabitants,  on  the  Red  Cedar  River,  at  the  intersection  of  several 
important  railways.  Its  trade  with  the  surrounding  country  is  large,  and 
there  are  a  number  of  manufactories  and  pork-packing  establishments. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  well  built,  and  promises  to" become  one 
of  the  most  important  in  Iowa. 

Beyond  Cedar  Rapids,  a  fertile  but  more  thinly  peopled  agricultural 
region  is  traversed,  with  a  number  of  small  stations  at  frequent  intervals 
along  the  line.  At  Ames,  a  branch  of  this  road  diverges  and  runs  to 
Des  Moines,  the  capital  of  Iowa  (see  Sub-Route  h).  Boone  (340  miles)  is 
a  thriving  village,  surrounded  by  a  rich  and  productive  farming  country. 
Soon  after  leaving  Boone  the  train  begins  the  descent  into  the  valley  of 
the  Des  Moines  Rivti',  amid  extremely  rugged  and  picturesque  scenery, 
ajid  with  very  heavy  grades,  in  some  places  of  80  ft.  to  the  mile.     The 


Route  89.]  CHICAOO   TO    OMAHA.  385 

Des  Moines  River,  which  is  the  largest  river  in  Iowa,  is  crossed  on  a  fine 
bridge.  For  many  miles  after  leaving  the  Des  Moines  Valley  the  road 
traverses  a  superb  prairie  with  many  thriving  small  towns.  Arcadia 
(405  miles)  is  the  highest  point  in  Iowa,  being  8Y0  ft.  above  the  level  of 
Lake  Michigan.  In  spring  and  summer  the  surrounding  prairie  is  rich 
in  long  grass  and  beautiful  flowers.  Denison  (423  miles)  is  a  promising 
young  town.  At  this  point  the  train  enters  the  Boyer  Valley,  the  scenery 
of  which  furnishes  a  pleasing  contrast  to  that  of  the  prairie.  Diinlap 
(441  miles)  is  a  growing  town,  containing  one  of  the  R.  R.  engine-houses. 
Missouri  Valley  Jim cf ion  (467  miles)  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Sioux  City 
and  Pacific  R.  R.  Here  the  descent  into  the  Missouri  Valley  begins,  and 
a  full  view  of  the  "  bluffs  "  is  obtained  for  the  first  time.  The  road, 
turning  S.  W.,  almost  skirts  those  on  the  Iowa  side,  while  those  of 
Nebraska  loom  up  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  broad  river-bottom.  At 
the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  which  are  here  high  and  precipitous,  3  miles  E.  of 
the  Missouri  River,  is  the  important  city  of  Council  Blufl's  (Park 
Hotel,  Oc/den,  Pacific,  and  Grand  Houses),  with  a  population  of  21,4*74. 
It  is  the  converging-point  of  all  the  railroads  from  the  East  which 
connect  with  the  Union  Pacific,  and  is  connected  with  Omaha,  on  the 
opposite  river-bank,  4  miles  distant,  by  a  street  car  and  wagon  bridge. 
The  great  *  Missouri  River  Bridges,  which  connect  the  two  cities, 
are  2,750  and  2,920  ft.  long.  The  Union  Pacific  R.  R,  Bridge  cost  over 
$1,000,000.  Council  Blufii's  is  well  laid  out,  with  streets  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles,  and  the  principal  edifices  are  of  brick.  The  most 
important  public  buildings  are  the  County  Court-House ;  the  TJ .  S. 
Court-House  and  Post-  Office  ;  the  Bloomer  School ;  the  High-School ; 
the  Masonic  Temjjle ;  and  the  Union  Depot.  Bohany'^s  Opera-House 
and  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Buildioig  are  also  fine  structures.  The  State  Insti- 
tute for  Deaf -Mutes  is  just  outside  the  city  limits.  There  are  in  the  city 
seventeen  churches,  a  Library  Association,  and  a  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association,  with  reading-room  and  gymnasium.  The  views  from  Fair- 
mount  Park  are  very  fine.  It  has  been  decided  by  the  U.  S.  Supreme 
Court  that  Council  Bluffs  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R. 
One  and  a  half  mile  from  the  up-town  depots  of  the  railroads  running 
into  Council  Bluffs,  and  near  the  bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  is  the  great 
transfer  depot,  used  by  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  and  connecting  lines. 
All  Denver  and  overland  trains  start  from  this  city.  Omaha  (Neb.), 
(see  Sub-Route  d). 

b.  Via  Chicago,  Rock  Island  (h  Pacific  R.  R.  Distance,  501  miles. 
Two  through  trains  daily,  with  palace  dining  and  sleeping  cars 
attached,  run  each  way  on  this  route.  The  country  traversed  is  very 
similar  in  character  to  that  along  the  preceding  route,  and  might  be 
described  in  the  same  general  terms  (see  above).  The  first  important 
place  on  the  line  is  Joliet  (40  miles),  which  has  already  been  described 
in  Route  85.  Morris  (62  miles)  is  a  busy  little  city  of  3,353  inhabitants 
on  the  Illinois  &  Michigan  Canal,  with  an  important  trade  in  grain,  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  female  seminary  of  some  note.  Twenty-three  miles 
beyond  Morris  is  Ottawa,  a  flourishing  city  of  about  9,985  inhabitants, 
25 


386  CHICAGO   TO   OMAHA.  [Route  89. 

on  the  Illinois  River,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Fox,  and  on  the  Illi- 
nois &  Michigan  Canal.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  contains  many 
handsome  residences.  The  chief  public  buildings  are  the  Court-House, 
in  which  the  Supreme  Court  for  the  N.  division  of  the  State  is  held,  and 
the  County  Court-House  and  Jail.  The  surrounding  country  is  fertile, 
and  abounds  in  coal.  The  Fox  River  has  here  a  fall  of  29  ft.,  affording 
an  immense  water-power  which  is  extensively  used  in  manufactures. 
There  are  several  grain-elevators,  and  large  quantities  of  wheat  are 
shipped  from  this  point.  La  Salle  (99  miles)  is  a  busy  manufacturing 
city  of  9,855  inhabitants,  on  the  Illinois  River,  at  the  terminus  of  the 
Illinois  &  Michigan  Canal,  100  miles  long,  which  connects  it  with  Chicago. 
It  also  connects  with  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.,  and  with  steamer  to  St. 
Louis.  It  is  the  center  of  extensive  mines  of  bituminous  coal,  of  which 
large  quantities  are  shipped.  Pond  Creek  (128  miles)  is  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  R.  R.  Geneseo  (159  miles) 
is  in  the  heart  of  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  districts  in  the  State ; 
and  20  miles  beyond  is  Moline  {Keator  House),  a  city  of  12,000  inhab- 
itants, on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  3  miles  above  Rock 
Island  {Harper  House,  Rock  Island),  which  is  another  flourishing  city 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  with  a  population  of  13,634.  The  river 
is  here  divided  by  the  island  of  Rock  Island,  which  is  3  miles  long; 
and  from  16  miles  above  Moline  to  3  miles  below  are  the  Upper  Rapids. 
By  means  of  a  dam  at  Moline  an  immense  water-power  is  obtained,  and 
employed  in  various  manufactories.  The  scenery  about  Moline  is  highly 
picturesque,  and  the  surrounding  country  is  rich  in  coal.  The  city  of 
Rock  Island  is  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  opposite  the  W.  extremity  of 
Rock  Island,  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  and  at  the  confluence  of 
Rock  River  ^vith  the  Mississippi.  It  is  an  important  railroad  center,  is 
the  shipping-point  for  the  productive  country  adjacent,  and  has  numerous 
and  varied  manufactures.  Here  are  located  Augustana  College  and  Theo- 
logical Institute.  Rock  Island  is  the  terminus  of  the  prospective  Michi- 
gan &  Mississippi  Canal.  The  island  of  *  Rock  Island  (960  acres  in 
extent)  is  the  property  of  the  U.  S.  Government,  and  the  site  of  the 
great  Rock  Island  Arsenal  and  Armory,  intended  to  be  the  central  United 
States  armory.  The  design  embraces  10  vast  stone  workshops,  with  a 
storehouse  in  the  rear  of  each,  besides  officers'  quarters,  magazines, 
offices,  etc.  Nearly  all  of  the  shops  are  now  completed.  The  shops  are 
supplied  with  motive-power  by  the  Moline  water-power,  three-fourths  of 
which  is  owned  by  the  Government.  There  are  20  miles  of  splendid 
roadways  running  in  every  direction ;  drives,  walks,  promenades,  and 
paths ;  delightful  shade,  and  magnificent  prospects  from  various  points 
of  view.  Railway  and  wagon  bridges,  owned  by  the  Government,  con- 
nect the  island  with  the  three  cities  of  Moline,  Rock  Island,  and  Daven- 
port. A  point  of  interest  is  Mack  Hawk'' s  Watch- Tower,  which  over- 
looks the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  Rock  Rivers  and  the  country 
for  miles  around. 

Opposite  Rock  Island,  on  the  Iowa  side  of  the  river,  is  the  city  of 
Davenport  (Kimball  House,  Lindell),  and  the  train  crosses  the  river 
between  them  on  the  magnificent  railroad  and  wagon  *  bridge  built  by 


Boute  89.]  CHICAGO   TO   OMAHA.  387 

the  Government  in  connection  with  the  armory  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000. 
Davenport  is  the  fourth  city  of  Iowa  in  size,  has  26,872  inhabitants,  and 
is  the  great  grain  depot  of  the  upper  Mississippi.  It  is  also  an  impor- 
tant manufacturing  center,  and  is  situated  in  the  heart  of  extensive 
bituminous  coal-fields.  The  city  is  built  at  the  foot  and  along  the  slope 
and  summit  of  a  bluff  3^  miles  long,  rising  gradually  from  the  river, 
and  inclosed  on  the  land  side  by  an  amphitheatre  of  hills  half  a  mile  in 
the  rear.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  and  handsomely  built,  and  street-cars 
traverse  the  principal  streets.  The  County  Buildings  are  substantial 
structures,  the  City  Hall  is  an  imposing  edifice,  and  the  Opei-a-House  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  West.  Several  of  the  churches  and  school- 
houses  are  handsome  buildings.  Gi'iswold  College  (Episcopal)  is  a  flour- 
ishing institution,  with  a  library  of  4,000  volumes,  and  the  Academy  of 
the  Immaculate  Conception  (Roman  Catholic)  is  of  high  standing.  The 
Library  Association  has  a  library  of  about  5,000  volumes,  and  there  are 
an  Academ,y  of  Natural  Sciences^  two  medical  societies,  and  the  Iowa 
Orphans'  Home. 

At  Davenport,  the  S.  W.  Division  of  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & 
Pacific  R.  R.  diverges  and  runs  to  Kansas  City,  and  Leavenworth  and 
Atchison  on  the  Missouri  River.  On  the  main  line,  40  miles  beyond 
Davenport,  is  West  Liberty,  the  junction  of  the  Burlington,  Cedar 
Rapids  &  Northern  R.  R.  lo^va  City  (227  miles)  was  formerly  the 
State  capital,  and  is  now  the  seat  of  the  State  University,  which  has  an 
attendance  of  950  students,  an  extensive  laboratory,  and  a  hbi-ary  of 
30,000  volumes.  The  University  occupies  four  buildings,  of  which  the 
largest,  formerly  the  Capitol,  is  a  fine  edifice  in  the  Doric  style,  120  by 
60  ft.  The  County  Offices  and  the  Court-House  are  the  other  principal 
public  buildings.  The  State  Historiccd  Society  has  a  library  of  3,500 
volumes.  The  Iowa  River  furnishes  water-power  for  various  factories 
and  flour-mills.  The  city  contains  7,016  inhabitants,  and  is  built  upon 
the  highest  of  three  plateaus,  150  ft.  above  the  river.  Grinnell  (3C2 
miles)  is  the  seat  of  Iowa  College,  which  was  removed  here  from  Daven- 
port. Colfax  has  become  quite  a  noted  resort  on  account  of  its  mineral 
springs.  Des  Moines  (358  miles ;  Aborn  House,  Kirkii^ood,  Morgan) 
is  the  present  capital  of  Iowa,  and  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Des  Moines  River,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Raccoon.  The  city, 
which  contains  50,093  inhabitants,  is  laid  out  in  quadrilateral  form,  ex- 
tending 4  miles  E.  and  W.  and  2  miles  N".  and  S.,  and  is  intersected  by 
both  rivers,  which  are  spanned  by  8  bridges.  The  business  quarter  lies 
near  the  rivers,  and  the  finest  residences  are  on  the  higher  ground 
beyond.  The  old  Capitol  is  a  plain  building  erected  in  1856  at  a  cost  of 
$60,000.  A  splendid  Capitol,  costing  $3,000,000,  has  been  recently 
finished.  The  Fost- Office,  which  also  accommodates  the  U.  S.  Courts 
and  other  Federal  offices,  cost  over  $200,000.  There  are  15  churches,  9 
public-school  houses,  and  a  Baptist  college  with  a  spacious  building  on 
an  eminence  commanding  a  fine  view.  There  are  also  Drake  University, 
Calinan  College,  and  two  medical  colleges.  The  State  Library  contains 
15,000  volumes,  and  there  is  a  Ptd)lic  Library  with  about  3,000  volumes. 
Among  other  fine  buildings  are  the  Grand  Opera-Hov^e  and  the  City 


388  CHICAGO    TO    OMAHA.  [Boute  89. 

Hall.  In  the  X.  W.  part  of  the  city  is  a  public  park  of  40  acres,  and, 
in  a  bend  of  the  Raccoon  River,  spacious  Fair  Grounds,  with  a  race-course. 
A  park  of  some  40  acres  has  just  been  laid  out  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city. 
Des  Moines  is  an  important  railroad  center,  as  more  than  twelve  roads 
pass  through  the  city. 

Beyond  Des  Moines  the  road  passes  through  the  flourishing  cities  of 
Avoca  and  Atlantic,  descends  the  bluffs  into  the  Missouri  Bottom,  and 
soon  reaches  Council  Bluffs  (498  miles),  which  has  been  described  in 
Sub-Route  a. 

c.  Via  Chicago.,  Burlington  <k  Quincy  R.  R.  Diatance^  502  miles. 
Two  through  trains  daily,  with  palace  sleeping  and  dining  car  serv- 
ice attached,  run  each  way  on  this  route.  The  Chicago,  Burlington 
&  Quincy  R.  R.  passes  thi^ough  some  of  the  most  fertile  farming  lands 
of  Illinois,  crossing  the  State  diagonally  from  Lake  Michigan  to  the 
Mississippi  River.  It  then  crosses  southern  Iowa,  a  section  teeming 
with  agricultural  wealth,  and  better  cultivated  than  some  other  por- 
tions of  the  State.  The  country  as  a  whole  does  not  diifer  greatly  from 
that  traversed  by  the  two  preceding  routes,  but  there  are  fewer  im- 
portant cities  along  the  line.  The  first  place  requiring  mention  is 
Aurora  (39  miles ;  Rishop  IIon.se,  Tremoni).,  a  city  of  ]  9,688  inhabitants, 
situated  upon  Fox  River,  which  furnishes  the  power  for  numerous 
important  manufactories.  It  contains  a  handsome  Citv  Hall,  a  college, 
14  churches,  and  many  fine  stores  and  dwellings.  The  construction 
and  repair  shops  of  the  R.  R.,  situated  here,  employ  '700  men.  Men- 
dota  (84  miles;  Union  Depot  Hotel,  Warner)  is  a  growing  city 
of  5,542  inhabitants,  at  the  intersection  of  the  Northern  Div.  of  the 
Illinois  Central  R.  R.  (Route  84).  It  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  farming 
region,  and,  coal  being  abundant,  manufactures  are  extensive  and  varied. 
Mendota  College  and  a  Wesleyan  Seminary  are  located  here,  and  some 
of, the  churches  are  handsome  edifices.  Gaiesburg  (164  miles ;  Brown's, 
Union  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  15,264  inhabitants,  noted  for  its  educational 
advantages,  being  the  seat  of  Knox  College  (Congregational),  with  650 
students  and  a  library  of  5,000  volumes,  and  of  Lombard  University 
(Universalist),  with  1 80  students  and  a  library  of  4,000  volumes.  Both 
institutions  admit  woman-students.  The  City  Library  contains  '7,000 
volumes,  and  that  of  the  Young  Menh  Library  Association  4,000 
volumes.  Gaiesburg  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  farming  country,  and  has 
several  manufactories,  including  the  machine-shops  of  the  R.  R.  Co. 
Thirteen  miles  beyond  Galesbui-g  is  Monmouth,  a  city  of  5,936  inhab- 
itants, situated  on  a  rich  and  beautiful  prairie.  It  is  the  seat  of  Mo7i- 
mouth  College,  established  in  1856,  and  of  the  Theological  Seminary  of 
the  Northwest,  estabhshed  in  1839,  both  under  the  control  of  the  United 
Presbj^erians.  At  E.  Burlington  (206  miles)  the  train  crosses  the  Mis- 
sissippi to  Burlington  {Duncan,  Union),  the  fifth  largest  city  in  Iowa, 
with  a  population  of  22,565,  and  a  place  of  gi-eat  commercial  importance. 
The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  built  upon  low  ground  along  the 
river,  while  the  residences  upon  the  high  bluffs  command  extend- 
ed views  of  the  fine  river  scenery.     The  electric  street-railway  system  is 


Eoute  89.']  CHICAGO   TO   OMAHA.  389 

in  use,  and  steam-heat  is  carried  through  the  business  portion  of  the 
city.  The  river  at  this  point  is  a  broad,  deep,  and  beautiful  stream,  and 
upon  the  bhiffs  between  which  it  passes  are  extensive  orchards  and  vine- 
yards. The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  well  built,  the  houses  being 
chiefly  of  brick.  Several  miles  of  streets  in  the  business  portion  are 
paved  with  hard  brick,  made  near  the  city.  It  contains  the  Burlington 
Listitute  (Baptist),  a  business  college,  a  Free  Public  Library^  w^ith  20,000 
volumes,  many  handsome  churches,  and  the  Des  Mohies  County  Court- 
House.  Ten  railroads  converge  at  Burlington,  and  it  is  connected  with 
all  the  river-ports  by  regular  lines  of  steamers.  A  railroad  and  wagon 
bridge  has  recently  been  built  across  the  Mississippi  at  this  point. 

From  Burlington  to  Council  Bluffs  the  road  traverses  wide-stretching 
prairie-lands,  which  rise  gradually  to  Creston  (39'7  miles),  and  then 
descend  more  rapidly  to  the  Missouri  Bottom.  Mount  Pleasant  (235 
miles)  is  a  city  of  3,9'7'7  inhabitants,  built  on  an  elevated  prairie,  nearly 
inclosed  in  a  bend  of  Big  Creek.  It  contains  Iowa  Wesleyan  University 
and  German  College^  both  under  the  control  of  the  Methodists.  The 
former  has  200  students  and  a  library  of  3,000  volumes.  Near  the 
village,  and  in  full  view  from  the  cars,  is  the  spacious  building  of  the 
State  Hospital  for  the  Insane.  The  next  important  station  is  Fairfield 
(25Y  miles),  picturesquely  situated  on  Big  Cedar  Creek.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  rolling  prairie,  diversified  with  forests  of  hard  wood. 
Ottuniwa  (Iowa)  (285  miles)  is  the  largest  city  on  this  line  between 
the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri,  and  has  a  population  of  14,001.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Des  Moines  River,  which  is  here  spanned  by  a  bridge,  is 
surrounded  by  a  fertile  country,  has  a  good  water-power  which  is 
extensively  used  in  manufactures,  and  does  a  trade  amounting  to 
$6,000,000  annually.  Alhia  (307  miles),  Chariton  (33V  miles),  and 
Osceola  (363  miles)  are  small  but  prosperous  places.  Creston  (397 
miles)  is  on  the  dividing-ridge  between  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri 
Rivers,  800  ft.  above  their  level.  The  engine-houses  and  repair-shops 
of  this  division  of  the  road  are  located  here.  The  principal  stations 
between  Creston  and  Council  Bluffs  are  Red  Oak^  where  the  Nebraska 
City  Branch  joins  the  main  line,  and  Pacific  Junction^  the  junction 
with  the  Burlington  &  Missouri  R.  R.  in  Nebraska.  Council  Bluffs 
(see  Sub-Route  a). 

d.  Via  Chicago^  MilvmuTcee  &  St.  Paul  R.  R.  IfiO  miles. 
This  line,  known  as  the  Chicago,  Council  Bluffs  &  Omaha  Short 
Line,  offers  in  many  ways  a  desirable  route.  The  through  trains  are 
equipped  with  sleeping  and  dining-room  car  service,  which  are  of  the 
best.  The  country,  though  not  specially  interesting,  is  a  fine  rolling 
prairie  covered  with  prosperous  farms.  The  first  station  of  importance 
out  of  Chicago  is  Elgin  (36  miles),  a  busy  city  of  17,823  population,  and 
an  important  manufacturing  place,  for  which  the  Fox  River  gives  ex- 
tensive water-power.  It  is  specially  noted  for  the  National  Watch- 
Works,  which  employ  some  600  hands  and  turn  out  about  $800,000 
worth  of  watches.  There  are  also  manufactories  of  carriages  and  agri- 
cultural machinery.     There  are  6  newspapers,  13   churches,  3  banks, 


390  OMAHA.  [Route  89. 

and  many  prosperous  business  houses  in  the  city.  Passing  a  number 
of  small  places,  we  reach  Rockford  (93  miles),  a  city  of  23,584  people, 
beautifully  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Rock  River.  It  is  the  terminus 
of  the  Kenosha  Div.  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  R.  R.  The  city 
contains  22  churches,  6  banks,  and  is  notable  among  the  smaller  West- 
ern cities  for  its  thrift  and  energy.  There  are  many  important  manu- 
factories, woolen-mills,  iron-foundries,  machine-shops,  agricultural-imple- 
ment works,  breweries,  etc.  Savanna  (138  miles)  is  a  pretty  town,  and 
in  194  miles  we  arrive  at  Rock  Island  (see  Sub-Route  h).  Marion 
(228  miles)  is  at  the  junction  with  the  St.  Louis  Coal  R.  R.,  a  thriving 
place  of  3,094  inhabitants.  Cedar  Rapids  (233  miles)  is  described 
in  Sub-Route  a.  Passing  through  Tama  City  (282  miles)  and  Pickering 
(296  miles),  we  reach  Des  Moines  in  3'74  miles  (see  Sub-Route  h).  There 
is  no  other  station  of  importance  before  reaching  Council  Blufi's. 

Omaha. 

Hotels,  etc. — First-class  houses  are  the  Paxton  House,  the  Millard,  and 
Murray.  Other  hotels  are  the  Dellone,  Metropolitan,  and  Windsor.  Motor  and 
cable  cars  traverse  the  city  in  various  directions,  centering  at  the  Union  Pacific 
Depot.    The  Post-  Office  is  at  the  cor.  of  loth  and  Dodge  Sts. 

Omaha,  the  largest  city  of  Xebi"aska  and  of  the  Missouri  River  Val- 
ley, is  situated  on  the  Missouri  River,  opposite  Council  Bluifs,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  the  steel  railroad-bridge  and  a  wagon-bridge,  and  is 
practically  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  It  occupies  a 
beautiful  plateau,  rising  gradually  into  bluffs,  and  in  1890  had  a  popu- 
lation of  140,452.  The  streets  are  broad,  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  are  lighted  with  gas  and  electric  lights.  The  level  portion  is 
chiefly  devoted  to  business  purposes,  and  contains  many  substantial 
commercial  blocks  and  buildings.  The  bluffs  are  occnpied  by  handsome 
residences  with  ornamental  grounds.  The  *  U.  S.  Post-  Office  and  Court- 
House  is  a  fine  building  of  Cincinnati  freestone,  122  by  66  ft.  and  4 
stories  high,  costing  $350,000.  The  ^  High- School  Building  cost  $250,- 
000,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  kind  in  the  country.  It  crowns  a  far- 
viewing  hill,  and  has  a  spire  185  ft.  high,  from  which  there  is  a  noble 
outlook.  The  Douglas  County  Court-House.^  costing  $225,000,  crowns 
another  eminence.  Boyd^s  Opera-House.^  one  of  the  finest  theatres  in  the 
West,  stands  at  the  cor.  of  Harney  and  lYth  Sts.  The  Union  Pacific 
Headquarters  Building  and  the  C,  B.  &  Q.  R.  R.  General  Offices  are 
handsome  and  spacious  brick  buildings,  in  which  are  employed  some  800 
people.  Several  of  the  churches  are  costly  and  handsome  structures. 
The  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  Depot  is  a  spacious  edifice.  The  Exposition 
Building,  on  Capitol  Ave.,  between  14th  and  15th  Sts.,  will  seat  6,000 
in  its  main  building,  and  contains  the  Opera-House.  Among  the  large 
buildings  are  those  erected  by  the  Omaha  Bee  at  a  cost  of  $750,000,  the 
New  York  Life-insurance  Building.^  costing  $500,000,  and  the  City  Hall. 

The  pi^osperity  of  Omaha  is  due  to  its  location,  being  in  reality  the 
gateway  to  the  entire  West,  and  as  such  it  is  called  the  "  Gate  "  city ; 
it  now  has  an  imm3nse  trade  and  numerous  important  manufactories. 
Of  the  latter,  the  principal  are  the    Omaha  Smelting -Works,  one  of 


Map  of  the  Pacific  Railways. 


Route  90.1  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FRANCISCO.  391 

the  largest  in  America,  several  large  breweries  and  distilleries,  extensive 
linseed-oil  works,  steam-engine  works,  four  brick-yards,  extensive  stock- 
yards, and  the  vast  machine-shops,  car-works,  and  foundry  of  the  Union 
Pacific  R.  R.  It  is  now  the  third  "packing"  center  in  the  U.  S.  The 
city  has  an  excellent  system  of  water-works.  Four  miles  N,  is  Fort 
Omaha^  a  large  and  handsome  post,  but  the  headquarters  of  the  De- 
partment of  the  Platte  are  in  the  city.  The  four  great  Iowa  roads,  the 
Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy,  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific,  the 
Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul,  and  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern,  virtu- 
ally terminate  in  Omaha.  The  city  communicates  with  St.  Louis  and  the 
Southeast  by  means  of  the  Wabash,  with  Kansas  City  and  Texas  with  the 
Kansas  City,  St.-Joseph  &  Council  Bluffs  and  the  Missouri  Pacific  R,  R., 
and  with  Minnesota  and  the  Northwest  by  means  of  the  Chicago,  St. 
Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Omaha  R.  R.  system,  while  the  product  of  the  great 
West  is  brought  in  over  the  Union  Pacific  and  the  Burlington  &  Mis- 
souri River  R.  R.  Thirteen  railroads  converge  here  with  their  termini. 
A  Belt-Line  R.  R.  encircles  the  city,  and,  besides  accommodating  local 
trade,  enables  the  larger  corporations  to  reach  the  business  center  of 
the  city. 

90.  Omaha  to  San  Francisco. 

By  the  Union  Pacific  and  Central  Pacific  Railways.  Distance,  1,865  miles. 
Time,  less  than  3  days.  The  Pacific  Railroads  occupy  so  peculiar  a  position 
among  achievements  of  the  kind  that  a  brief  outline  of  their  history  will  per- 
haps prove  interesting.  The  project  of  a  railway  across  the  continent  was  pub- 
licly advocated  as  early  as  1846,  by  Asa  Whitney,  and  in  1853  Congress  passed 
an  act  providing  for  surveys  by  the  corps  of  topographical  engineers.  Further 
acts  were  passed  in  1862  and  1854  providing  for  a  subsidy  in  United  States  6  per 
cent  gold  bonds  at  specified  rates  per  mile.  The  same  acts  also  gave  to  the  com- 
panies undertaking  the  work  20  sections  (12,800  acres)  of  land  for  each  mile  of 
railroad  built,  or  about  25,000,000  acres  in  all.  The  railroad  was  built  from 
Omaha,  Neb.,  to  Ogden,  Utah,  1,031  miles,  by  the  Union  Pacific  Company,  and 
from  San  Francisco  to  Ogden,  883  miles,  by  the  Centra]  Pacific  Company. 
Work  was  begun  in  1863  ;  the  first  40  miles  from  Omaha  to  Fremont  were  com- 
pleted in  1865  ;  and  on  May  12,  1869,  the  railroad  communication  from  the  At- 
lantic to  the  Pacific  ocean  was  opened.  The  route  crosses  9  mountain-ranges, 
the  highest  being-  the  Rocky  Mountains,  at  an  elevation  of  8,247  ft.  above  the  sea, 
and  the  lowest,  Promontory  Mountain,  W.  of  Great  Salt  Lake,  4.889  ft.  The  ag- 
gregate length  of  the  tunnels,  of  which  there  are  15,  all  occuiTing  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada  or  its  spurs,  is  6,600  ft.  The  gradients  do  not  often  exceed  80  ft.  to  the 
mile,  though  in  one  instance  they  reach  90  ft.  and  in  another  116  ft.  to  the  mile. 
The  cost  of  the  Union  Pacific  road  was  reported  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior 
at  $112,259,360  ;  but  the  liabilities  of  the  company  at  the  date  of  the  comple- 
tion of  the  road  were  $116,730,052.  In  1868  Jesse  L.  Williams,  a  civil  engineer 
and  one  of  the  government  directors,  reported  the  approximate  cost  of  the 
Union  Pacific  road  in  cash  at  $38,824,821  ;  and  this  was  probably  not  far  from 
correct.  The  cost  of  the  Central  Pacific  road  and  branches  (1,222  miles)  in  lia- 
bilities of  every  sort  was  reported  in  1874  at  $139,746,311. 

Stations.—  Union  Pacific  By.  :  Omaha  to  Gilmore,  10  miles  ;  Papilion,  15 
Millard,  21 ;  Elkhom,  29  ;  Waterloo,  31  ;  VaEey,  35  :  Fremont,  47  ;  North  Bend 
62  ;  Schuyler,  76  ;  Benton,  84  ;  Columbus,  92  ;  Duncan,  99  ;  Silver  Creek,  109 
Clark,  121  ;  Central  City,  132 ;  Chapman,  142  :  Grand  Island,  1.54  ;  Alda.  162 
Wood  River,  170  ;  Shelton.  178 ;  Gibbon.  183  ;  Kearney,  195  :  Elm  Creek,  212 
Overton,  221 ;  Lexington,  231 ;  Cozad.  245  ;  Willow  Island,  250  ;  Warren,  260 
Bradv  Island,  268  ;  North  Platte,  291  ;  O'Fallon's,  308  :  Dexter,  315  ;  Roscoe 
332  ;  Ogalalla,  342  :  Big  Spring,  361 :  Barton,  369  ;  Julesburs,  372  :  Chappeli 
387 ;  Lodge  Pole,  397 :  Sidnev,  414  ;  Brownson,  423  ;  Potter,  433 ;  Pine  Blirff 
473  ;  Egbert,  484  ;  Hillsdale,  498  ;  Cheyenne,  516  ;  Granite  Canon,  535  ;   Sher 


392  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FBANCISOO.  [Route  90. 

man,  549 ;  Laramie,  573  ;  Lookout,  606 ;  Medicine  Bow,  645 ;  Carbon,  657 
Percy,  668  ;  Fort  Steele,  695  ;  Rawlins,  709  ;  Creston,  737  ;  Eock  Springs,  832 
Green  Eiver,  845 ;  Bryan,  860 ;  Carter,  905  ;  Piedmont,  929  ;  Evanston,  957 
Wahsatch,  966  ;  Caetle  Rock,  975  ;  Echo,  993 ;  Weber,  1.009 ;  Peterson,  1,017 
Uintah,  1,026;  Ogden,  1,031.  Central  Pacific  E.  i?.-Corinne.  1,053:  Promon 
tory  Point.  1,082  :  Kelton,  1.123  ;  Terrace.  1,153  ;  Toano,  1,214 ;  Wells,  1,250 
Elko,  1,307 ;  Carlin,  1,330  ;  Palisade,  1,339 ;  Winuemucca,  1,451 ;  Humboldt 
1,493;  Hot  Springs,  1,569;  Wadsworth,  1,588;  Reno,  1,622;  Truckee,  1,656 
Summit,  1,671 :  Emigrant  Gap,  1.692  ;  Blue  Canon.  1.698 ;  Dutch  Flat,  1,709 
Colfax,  1,722  ;  Auburn,  1.740  ;  Rocklin,  1,754  ;  Sacramento,  1,777  ;  Elmira,  1,805 
Suisun,  1,816 ;  Benecia,  1,832 ;  Port  Costa,  1,833 ;  Oakland  Pier,  1,862 ;  San 
Francisco,  1,865. 

The  journey  from  Omaha  to  Sau  Francisco,  by  reason  of  its  great 
length  and  the  time  which  it  takes,  will  be  in  many  respects  a  new  ex- 
perience to  the  traveler,  no  matter  how  extended  his  previous  journeyings 
may  have  been.  It  is  more  like  a  sea-voyage  than  the  ordinary  rushing 
from  point  to  point  by  rail,  and,  as  on  a  sea-voyage,  one  ceases  to  care 
about  time-tables  and  connections,  and  makes  himself  comfortable.  The 
slow-running  time  of  the  earlier  period  has  changed  to  a  speed  which  some 
Eastern  lines  might  emulate.  The  time  consumed  from  Omaha  to  San 
Francisco,  via  the  Union  and  Central  Pacific  Rys.,  is  2  days,  21  hours 
and  25  minutes.  Trains  do  not  stop  at  meal-stations,  but  dining-cars 
are  run  on  this  line.  The  buffet  sleeping-car  service  is  also  run,  and 
flie  traveler  can  always  find  good  cheer  at  the  sideboard.  Mr.  Charles 
Nordhoff,  in  speaking  of  the  comforts  of  the  long  journey,  says :  "  You 
may  pursue  all  the  sedentary  avocations  and  amusements  of  a  parlor  at 
home ;  and  as  your  housekeeping  is  done — and  admirably  done — for  you  by 
alert  and  experienced  servants ;  as  you  may  lie  down  at  full  length,  or  sit 
up,  sleep  or  wake,  at  your  choice ;  as  your  dinner  is  sure  to  be  abundant, 
very  tolerably  cooked,  and  not  hurried;  as  you  are  pretty  certain  to 
make  acquaintances  on  the  car ;  and,  as  the  country  through  which  you 
pass  is  strange,  and  abounds  in  curious  and  interesting  sights,  and  the 
air  is  fresh  and  exhilarating — you  soon  fall  into  the  ways  of  the  voyage ; 
and  if  you  are  a  tired  business  man,  or  a  wearied  housekeeper,  your  care- 
less ease  will  be  such  a  rest  as  certainly  most  busy  and  overworked 
Americans  know  how  to  enjoy." 

Passengers  may  secure  berths  in  the  sleeping-cars  for  the  continu- 
ous trip  to  San  Francisco  in  Chicago,  at  the  ticket-offices  of  any  of 
the  routes  mentioned  in  Route  87,  or  may  arrange  for  berths  from  point 
to  point.  The  price  of  a  berth  from  Chicago  to  Omaha  is  $2.50 ;  Omaha 
to  Ogden  or  Salt  Lake  City,  $8 ;  Ogden  to  San  Francisco,  $6. 

As  there  are  nearly  300  stations  on  the  line,  only  the  more  impor- 
tant are  included  in  the  list  given  above,  and  the  information  there 
conveyed  (names  and  distances)  is  all  that  the  traveler  will  care  to  have 
about  most  of  them.  In  such  a  case  as  this  the  only  method  of 
description  not  likely  to  prove  tedious  will  be  to  direct  attention  in 
a  general  way  to  the  characteristic  features  of  the  different  sections 
^of  the  route.  Those  who  wish  for  more  detailed  information  can  secure 
*it  from  the  R.  R.  folders  of  the  Union  Pacific  Ry. 

Two  trains  leave  Omaha  daily  for  the  west,  one  at  2.15  p.  m.  and 
the  other  at  6.40  p.  m.     Both  trains  connect  for  San  Francisco,  Salt 


Route  90.]  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FRANCISCO.  393 

Lake  City,  Portland  and  Utah,  Idaho,  Montana,  and  Oregon  points. 
Both  trains  have  through  coaches  and  sleepers  for  Denver  also.  As- 
suming that  the  passenger  takes  the  early  train,  he  will  pull  slowly 
out  through  a  valley  in  which  are  located  several  important  manufact- 
uring establishments,  and  make  his  first  stop  at  South  Omaha^  the  most 
important  suburb  of  the  city  of  Omaha.  A  s^'ndicate  of  capitalists 
has  purchased  1,800  acres  of  ground  here,  laid  it  out  into  city  lots, 
built  large  stock-yards,  slaughter-houses,  and  packing  establishments, 
and  proposes  to  conduct  an  extensive  business,  giving  employment  to 
several  hundred  men.  Westward  during  the  afternoon,  the  road 
traverses  vast  prairies  dotted  over  thickly  with  farms  and  farm'-houses. 
On  the  left  is  the  Platte  River,  through  whose  valley,  entered  at  Elkhorn 
(29  miles),  the  road  runs  for  nearly  400  miles,  and  whose  North  Fork  is 
crossed  at  Fort  Steele  (694  miles).  At  Valleij  (35  miles)  a  branch  leaves 
the  main  line  for  Wahoo,  Lincoln^  Beatrice,  3Iari/sville,  David  City, 
Osceola,  and  Stronisburg.  At  Fremont  (47  miles),  a  city  of  6,^747 
people,  the  Sioux  City  and  Pacific  R.  R.  connects  with  the  Union  Pacific 
Ry.  North  Bend  (62  miles)  and  Schuyler  (76  miles)  are  passed,  and  the 
train  arrives  at  Columbus  (92  miles),  from  which  point  a  branch,  known 
as  the  Omaha  &  Republican  Valley  Branch,  leaves  the  main  line  for 
Albion,  Fullerton,  and  Norfolk.  The  Burlington  &  Missouri  R.  R. 
has  a  branch  coming  from  the  south  and  joining  the  Union  Pacific  here, 
with  another  at  Central  City  (132  miles),  and  a  third  at  Grand  Island 
(154  miles).  The  last-named  city  is  a  railway  center  of  some  impor- 
tance. A  branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  extends  northward  to  St.  Paid 
and  Orel,  and  the  St.  Joseph  &  Grand  Island  R.  R.,  a  part  of  the  Union 
Pacific  system,  also  meets  the  main  line  at  this  point.  The  train  moves 
westward,  continuing  through  a  beautiful  agricultural  section,  passing 
Kearny  (195  miles),  Lexington  (231  miles),  and  reaching  North  Platte 
(291  miles),  the  end  of  the  first  passenger  division,  soon  after  midnight. 
Xorth  Platte  has  extensive  railroad-shops,  round-houses,  and  a  large  rail- 
road population.  It  is  a  city  of  3,055  people,  and  lies  on  the  border 
between  the  farming  and  grazing  sections  of  Nebraska.  In  the  past 
two  yeai-s  farmers  have  moved  in  great  numbers  upon  this  section,  and 
have  met  with  good  success  in  cultivating  its  soil,  even  as  far  west  as 
Sidney  (414  miles).  Julesburg  (372  miles)  is  the  junction  of  the  Jules- 
burg  Branch,  the  short  line  to  Denver,  over  which  through  cars  pass 
between  Omaha  and  Denver.  Passing  through  the  great  stock  region 
in  the  night,  the  train  arrives  at  Cheyenne  (516  miles),  where  junction 
is  made  with  the  Denver  Pacific  Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific,  and  the 
Denver  &  Kansas  City  sleeping-cars  will  be  found  waiting  to  deliver 
their  passengers  to  the  main  line  sleeping-cars. 

At  Cheyenne  a  fine  glimpse  is  liad  of  the  Rocky  Mountams,  whose  snow-clad 
tops  are  taken  for  clouds.  *Long's  Peak  (14,271  ft.  high)  soon  becomes  plainly 
visible,  and  the  Spanish  Peaks  are  seen  in  the  dim  distance  ;  while  away  to  the 
N.,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  the  dark  line  of  the  Black  Hills  leans  'against 
the  horizon. 

Cheyenne  (Wyoming)  (516  miles  ;  fnterocean  Hotel)  is  one  of  the 
largest  towns  on  the  road,  though  settled  only  in  1867.     It  has  a  popu- 


394  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FEANOISCO.  [Route  90. 

lation  of  11,690,  representing  chiefly  the  stock  and  mining  interests,  is 
the  point  of  junction  with  the  Colorado  Central  Branch  (see  Route  99), 
and  has  an  extensive  round-house  and  shops,  also  a  fine  depot.  The 
town  is  substantially  built,  largely  of  brick,  and  contains  a  fine  Court- 
House  and  Jail,  a  neat  City  Hall,  a  large  public-school  building,  and  a 
brick  opera-house.  The  military  post  of  Fort  D.  A.  Russell  is  located 
here.  Cheyenne  is  another  point  of  departure  for  the  Black  Hills,  and 
daily  stages  run  to  Deadwood  in  48  hours. 

A  few  miles  beyond  Cheyenne  the  ascent  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains is  begun,  though  the  train  has  climbed  about  one  mile  in  alti- 
tude sin(5e  leaving  Omaha,  and  for  thirty  miles  the  road  climbs  rugged 
granite  hills,  winding  in  and  out  of  interminable  snow-sheds.  Sherman 
(549  miles)  is  the  highest  R.  R.  station  on  this  transcontinental  line 
(8,247  ft.),  and  affords  grand  views.  Here  commences  the  descent  to 
the  Laramie  Plains,  which  are  about  40  miles  wide  on  the  average  and 
100  miles  long,  bounded  by  the  Black  Hills  and  the  Medicine  Bow 
Mountains.  They  are  overrun  by  enormous  flocks  of  sheep,  and  are 
said  to  afford  the  best  grazing  in  the  United  States.  In  the  adjacent 
hills  there  is  abundance  of  game,  such  as  mountain-sheep,  antelopes, 
and  bears.  Laramie  City  (5Y3  miles)  is  situated  on  the  Laramie 
River,  in  the  midst  of  the  Laramie  Plains,  and  has  a  population  of  some 
6,388,  which  is  rapidly  increasing.  It  is  the  end  of  a  division  of  the 
R.  R.,  and  has  large  machine  and  repair  shops,  and  the  rolling-mills  of 
the  company.  The  streets  are  regularly  laid  out  at  right  angles  with 
the  railway,  and  there  are  many  handsome  buildings  of  brick  and  stone. 
Within  30  miles  of  Laramie  there  are  deposits  of  antimony,  cinnabar, 
gold,  silver,  and  lead  ores,  graphite,  and  several  other  minerals ;  and  it  is 
expected  that  the  place  will  become  an  important  manufacturing  center. 
Beyond  Laramie  the  road  traverses  the  Plains  for  many  miles,  crosses 
a  region  of  rugged  hills,  and  descends  once  more  into  the  valley  of  the 
North  Platte.  Near  Miser  (616  miles)  there  are  fine  views  from  the 
cars  of  Laramie  Peak  on  the  right  and  Elk  Mountain  on  the  left.  RocJc 
Creek  (625  miles)  is  a  regular  eating-station,  and  ranks  among  the  best 
on  the  line.  The  North  Platte  is  reached  at  Fort  Fred  Steele  (695  miles), 
and  then  another  steep  ascent  is  begun.  Ci^eston  (737  miles)  is  upon 
the  dividing  ridge  of  the  continent,  from  which  water  flows  each  way, 
E.  to  the  Atlantic  and  W.  to  the  Pacific.  At  Green  River  Station  (845 
miles)  the  train  emerges  from  the  desolate  plains,  and  enters  a  mountain- 
region,  which  affords  some  fine  views.  Utah  Territory  is  entered  W. 
of  Wahsatch  (966  miles).  Within  this  region,  between  Green  River 
and  Salt  Lake  Valley,  five  tunnels  are  traversed,  aggregating  nearly 
2,000  ft.,  and  cut  through  solid  rock,  which  never  crumbles,  and  conse- 
quently does  not  require  to  be  arched  with  brick.  Castle  Rock  (975 
miles)  is  a  station  at  the  head  of  Echo  Canon,  and  we  there  enter  a 
region  whose  grand  and  beautiful  scenery  has  been  often  described, 
*  Fcho  Canon  and  the  celebrated  *  Weber  Canon  offer  the  most  magnifi- 
cent sights  on  the  whole  Pacific  route,  and  the  tourist  will  be  fortunate 
if  he  passes  them  by  daylight.  The  road  winds  thi-ough  all  the  devious 
turns  of  these  caiions,  while  rock-ribbed  mountains,  bare  of  foliage  ex- 


Route  90.1  OIVIAHA   TO    SAN   FKANCISCO.  395 

cept  a  stunted  pine,  and  snow-capped,  rise  to  an  awful  height  on  either 
hand.  Emerging  from  these  grim  battlements  of  rock,  the  train  enters 
the  Salt  Lake  Valley  and  soon  reaches  Ogden  (Utah)  (1,031  miles), 
the  junction  between  the  Union  Pacific  and  Central  Pacific  Railways. 
Here  the  road  runs  S.  to  Salt  Lake  City,  and  N.  to  Butte,  Helena,  and 
Anaconda.  Ogden  is  a  flourishing  city  of  14,889  inhabitants,  situated 
on  a  high  mountain-environed  plateau,  and  remarkably  well  built.  Its 
streets  are  broad,  with  running  streams  of  water  in  nearly  all  of  -them, 
and  it  contains  a  brick  Court-House,  3  churches  and  a  Mormon  taber- 
nacle, many  tasteful  residences,  and  2  hotels,  the  Broome  and  the  Depot^ 
the  latter  being  at  the  station.  The  machine  and  repair  shops  of  the 
Central  Pacific  R.  R.  are  located  here.  Ogden  is  the  regular  supper  and 
breakfast  station  of  both  Pacific  railroads,  and  here  cars  are  changed. 
Passengers  are  allowed  one  hour  in  which  to  get  their  meals,  look  about, 
and  secure  new  berths  in  the  palace-cars. 

The  detour  to  Salt  Lake  City  (3Y  miles  from  Ogden;  fare,  $1.50) 
may  be  made  in  one  day.  The  country  between  Ogden  and  Salt  Lake 
City  is  quite  thickly  settled,  except  within  the  fii'st  Y  miles,  and  stop- 
pages are  made  at  several  Mormon  villages,  which  are  attractive  on  ac- 
count of  the  rich  and  well-cultivated  farms. 

Salt  Lake  City. 

Hotels,  etc. — The  best  hotels  are  the  Continental,  the  Cullen,  Knutsford, 
Metropolitan,  Templeton,  and  Walker.  Electric-cars  run  on  the  principal 
streets  and  render  all  parts  of  the  city  easily  accessible.  The  population  of 
Salt  Lake  City  is  44,843,  of  whom  about  one  third  are  Gentiles  and  apostate 
Mormons. 

Salt  Lake  City,  the  capital  of  Utah  Territory,  is  situated  at  the  W. 
base  of  a  spur  of  the  Wahsatch  Mts.,  about  12  miles  from  the  S.  E.  ex- 
tremity of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  It  lies  in  a  great  valley,  extending  close 
up  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  on  the  N.,  with  an  expansive  view  to 
the  S.  of  more  than  100  miles  of  plains,  beyond  which  in  the  distance 
rise,  clear  cut  and  grand  in  the  extreme,  the  gray  and  rugged  mountains 
whose  peaks  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  Great  care  was  displayed 
in  selecting  the  site  and  in  laying  out  the  city.  The  streets  are  128  ft. 
wide,  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  There  are  260  blocks,  each 
^  of  a  mile  square  and  containing  10  acres.  Each  block  is  divided  into 
8  lots,  10  by  20  rods,  and  containing  1^  acre.  Several  of  the  blocks  in 
the  business  quarter  have  been  cut  by  cross-streets  laid  out  since  the 
founding  of  the  city.  Shade-trees  and  ditches  filled  with  running  water 
line  both  sides  of  every  street,  while  almost  every  lot  has  an  orchard  of 
pear,  apricot,  plum,  peach,  and  apple  trees.  The  city  is  divided  into  21 
wards,  nearly  every  one  of  which  has  a  public  square. 

The  chief  business  thoroughfares  are  Main  St.  and  Temple  St.,  and 
1st  and  2d  South  Sts.  On  the  former  is  the  great  *  Tabernacle, 
which  is  the  first  object  to  attract  the  eye  as  one  approaches  the  city, 
although  destitute  of  any  architectural  beauty.  It  is  of  wood,  except  the 
46  huge  sandstone  pillars  which  support  the  immense  dome-hke  roof,  is 
oval  in  shape  inside  and  out,  and  will  seat  13,000  persons.  Its  length  is 
250  ft.,  width  150  ft.,  and  height  70  ft.    It  is  used  for  worship,  lectures, 


396       ,  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FKAKTOISCO.  [Houte  90, 

and  debates.  The  Tabernacle  organ  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Amer- 
ica. A  little  E.  of  the  Tabernacle,  and  inclosed  within  the  same  high 
wall,  is  the  completed  granite  building  of  the  Temple^  which  cost 
$5,000,000.  It  is  200  ft.  long  by  100  ft.  wide;  the  walls  are  100 
ft.  high  and  the  spires  200  ft.  high.  Within  the  same  walls  is  the 
famous  Endowment  Hoiise^  in  which  the  various  Mormon  rites  are  per- 
formed, and  in  which  the  Mormons  are  married  and  receive  their  "en- 
dowments." It  is  an  inferior-looking  adobe  building.  On  S.  Temple  St., 
E.  of  Temple  Block,  is  Brighcmi's  Block^  inclosed  by  a  high  stone  wall, 
and  containing  the  Tithing  House,  the  Beehive  House,  the  Lion  House, 
the  Assembly  Rooms,  the  office  of  the  "  Deseret  News,"  and  various 
other  offices,  shops,  dwellings,  etc.  Here  was  the  residence  of  Brigham 
Young,  and  18  or  20  of  his  wi^es  lived  in  the  Beehive  and  the  Lion  House. 
Nearly  opposite  is  a  large  and  handsome  house  supposed  to  belong  to  the 
Prophet's  favorite  wife,  and  formerly  known  as  Amelia  Palace^  now  known 
as  the  Gardo  House.  On  S.  Temple  St.,  opposite  the  Tabernacle,  is  The 
Muse^im,  where  may  be  seen  the  various  products  of  Mormon  industry, 
specimen  ores  from  the  mines,  and  Indian  relics  and  curiosities.  The 
Theatre  is  a  vast,  plain-looking  building,  but  with  a  very  ornate  interior. 
Walker's  Opera-House  is  a  fine  structure.  The  Masonic  and  the  Dese- 
ret Lihrai'ies  are  open  to  the  public  free.  The  City  Hall  cost  $60,000, 
and  is  used  as  the  Territorial  Capitol ;  while  the  County  Court-House^ 
a  handsome  brick  building,  is  on  2d  South  St.  The  U.  S.  Court  is 
held  in  the  Wahsatch  Building,  on  Main  St.  There  are  several  fine 
churches  in  the  city.  Among  the  educational  institutions  are  the  Deseret 
University^  Hammond  Hall^  Collegiate  Institute^  All-Halloivs  College 
(Catholic),  and  21  public  schools,  purely  secular,  and  St.  Maryh  Acad- 
emy. The  hospitals  are.  Holy  Cross,  St.  Mark^s,  and  the  Deseret.  The 
City  Prison  is  in  the  rear  of  the  City  Hall.  The  Utah  Penitentiary  is  a 
curious  old  structure,  1|-  mile  S.  W.  of  the  city.  A  new  penitentiary  is 
now  in  construction  by  the  U.  S.  Government.  Other  handsome,  build- 
ings are  those  of  the  Deseret  National  Bank.^  at  the  cor.  of  E.  Temple 
and  S.  1st  Sts. ;  the  Co-operative  Store,  in  E.  Temple  St. ;  and  the  new 
Hooper  and  Eldredge  block.  About  2  miles  E.  of  the  city  is*  Fort 
Douglas,  overlooking  the  city,  and  garrisoned  by  a  full  regiment. 
The  drive  around  Liberty  Park,  and  on  the  Boulevard,  10  to  12  miles 
long,  passes  through  very  fine  scenery.  From  the  Tower,  on  the  North 
'  Bench  of  the  city,  a  beautiful  view  is  obtained.  Park  City,  Bingham, 
and  Alta  mining  camps  are  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Most  visitors  to  Salt  Lake  City  will,  as  a  matter  of  course,  wish  to 
see  the  *  Great  Salt  Lake  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  and  which  is 
one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  of  the  West.  It  is  most  easily 
reached  via  the  Utah  &  Nevada,  a  branch  of  the  Union  Pacific,  to  Gar- 
field Beach  (18  miles),  where  there  is  a  large  hotel,  a  fine  pavilion,  and 
numerous  bath-houses  (round  trip  rate,  50  cents).  Salt-Air  Beach,  Cres- 
cent Beach,  and  Buffalo  Park  are  resorts  that  were  opened  in  1891. 
Great  Salt  Lake  is  75  miles  long  and  about  30  miles  broad,  is  4,200  ft. 
above  the  sea,  and  contains  Y  islands,  of  which  Antelope  and  Stans- 
bury  are  the  two  largest.     Several  rivers  flow  into  it,  but  it  has  no  out- 


Boute  90.]  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FRANCISCO.  897 

let.  The  water  is  shallow,  the  depth  in  many  extensive  parts  being  not 
more  than  2  or  3  ft.  Its  water  is  transparent,  but  excessively  salt,  and 
so  buoyant  that  a  man  may  float  in  it  at  full  Jength  upon  his  back, 
having  his  head  and  neck,  his  legs  to  the  knee,  and  both  arms  to  the 
elbow  entirely  out  of  the  water.  Swimming,  however,  is  difficult,  from 
the  tendency  of  the  lower  extremities  to  rise  above  the  surface ;  and 
the  brine  is  so  strong  that  it  can  not  be  swallowed  without  danger  of 
strangulation,  while  a  particle  of  it  in  the  eye  causes  intense  pain.  A 
bath  in  it  is  refreshing  and  invigorating,  though  the  body  requires  to 
be  washed  afterward  in  fresh  water. 


Leaving  Ogden,  the  westward-bound  train  passes  two  small  stations, 
and  in  25  miles  reaches  Corinne  {Central  HoteT)^  the  largest  Gentile 
town  in  Utah,  having  a  large  trade  with  the  mining-regions  of  eastern 
Idaho  and  Montana.  Beyond  Corinne  the  train  winds  among  the 
Promontory  Mts.,  and  skirts  the  N.  shore  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  while 
the  Mormon  city  lies  near  the  S.  end  of  it.  Promontory  Point  (1,082 
miles)  is  interesting  as  the  spot  where  the  two  companies  building  the 
Pacific  Kailroad  joined  their  tracks  on  May  10,  1869.  The  last  tie  was 
made  of  California  laui"el  trimmed  with  silver,  and  the  last  four  spikes 
were  of  solid  silver  and  gold.  Beyond  this  the  road  enters"  upon  an 
extended  plateau,  about  60  miles  long  and  of  the  same  width,  known 
as  the  Great  Americayi  Desert.  Its  whole  surface  is  covered  with  a 
sapless  weed  5  or  6  inches  high,  and  never  grows  any  green  thing  that 
could  sustain  animal  life.  The  only  living  things  found  upon  it  are 
lizards  and  jackass-rabbits;  and  the  only  landscape  feature  is  dry, 
brown,  and  bare  mountains.  "  The  earth  is  alkaline  and  fine,  and  is 
whirled  up  by  the  least  wind  in  blinding  clouds  of  dust.  Elvers  disap- 
pear in  it,  and  it  yields  no  lovelier  vegetation  in  return  than  the  pallid 
artemisia  or  sage-brush.  It  seems  to  have  been  desolated  by  a  fire 
which  has  left  it  red  and  crisp ;  the  blight  which  oppresses  it  is  inde- 
scribable. The  towns  along  the  railway  do  not  enliven  the  prospect." 
Yet  the  process  of  irrigation,  which  is  beginning  to  be  used  in  places, 
shows  that  even  this  unpromising  soil  can  be  made  to  yield  rich  returns. 
At  Humboldt  Wells  (1,250  miles)  are  some  30  springs  in  a  low  basin 
about  -^  mile  W.  of  the  station.  Some  of  these  springs  have  been 
sounded  to  a  depth  of  1,Y00  feet  without  revealing  a  bottom,  and  it  is 
supposed  that  the  whole  series  form  the  outlets  of  a  subterranean  lake. 
The  most  important  station  on  this  portion  of  the  line  is  !Elko  (1,307 
miles),  which  is  the  county-seat,  and  has  a  large  brick  coart-house  and 
jail,  a  church  and  a  public  school,  and  the  State  University,  founded  in 
1875.  Several  important  mining  districts  are  tributary  to  Elko,  and 
secure  it  a  large  trade.  About  1-|-  mile  W.  is  a  group  of  mineral  springs 
which  are  achieving  a  good  deal  of  local  reputation.  Winnemucca  (1,451 
miles)  is  another  prosperous  town  with  a  large  mining  trade ;  and  Hum- 
boldt (1,493  miles)  affords  a  grateful  if  momentary  relief  to  the  now 
wearied  eye  of  the  tourist.  "  The  desert  extends  from  Humboldt  in 
every  direction — a  pallid,  lifeless  waste,  that  gives  emphasis  to  the  word 


398  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FRANCISCO.  [Jioute  90. 

desolation ;  mountains  break  the  level,  and  from  the  foot  to  the  crest 
they  are  devoid  of  vegetation  and  other  color  than  a  maroon  or  leaden 
gray ;  the  earth  is  loose  and  sandy  ;  Sahara  itself  could  not  surpass  the 
landscape  in  its  woe-begone  infertility;  but  here  at  Humboldt  a  little 
intelligence,  expenditure,  and  taste  have,  by  the  magic  of  irrigation,  com- 
pelled the  soil  to  yield  flowers,  grass,  fruit,  and  shrubbery." 

At  Wadsvjorth  (1,588  miles)  the  ascent  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  is 
begun.  The  wearying  sight  of  plains  covered  with  alkali  and  sage- 
brush is  exchanged  for  picturesque  views  of  mountain-slopes,  adorned 
with  branching  pine-trees,  and  diversified  with  foaming  torrents.  The 
ascent  soon  becomes  so  steep  that  two  locomotives  are  required  to 
draw  the  train.  At  short  intervals  there  are  strong  wooden  snow-sheds, 
erected  to  guard  the  line  against  destruction  by  snow-slides.  These 
sheds,  which  are  very  much  like  tunnels,  interrupt  the  views  of  some  of 
the  most  romantic  scenery  on  the  line. 

Reno  (1,622  miles;  Arcade,  Golden  Eagle,  Palace)  is  a  busy  town 
on  the  Truckee  Kiver,  about  5  miles  from  the  base  of  the  Sierra.  It  has 
a  large  trade  with  the  mining  districts,  is  in  the  heart  of  an  agricultural 
and  grazing  valley,  and  contains  the  grounds  of  the  State  Agricultural 
Society,  the  State  University,  and  State  Insane  Asylum,  BisJiop  Whit- 
aker''s  School  for  girls,  and  St.  Maryh  (Catholic)  School,  and  several 
flouring-mills  and  smelting-works. 

The  Vii^ginia  &  Truckee  E.  R.  runs  from  Reno  to  Carson  (31  miles)  and  Vir- 
ginia City  (52  miles),  in  the  great  Nevada  mining-region.  Carson  {Ornishy)  is 
the  capital  of  Nevada,  and  is  a  thriving  city  of  3,950  inhabitants,  containing  the 
Capitol,  the  U.  S.  Mint,  a  Comt-Honse,  four  churches,  the  best  school-house  in 
the  State,  and  many  handsome  residences.  The  State  Prison,  2i  miles  distant, 
is  a  massive  building.  From  Carson  daily  stages  run  in  15  mDes  (fare,  $2)  to 
*  Lake  Tahoe,  as  far  as  Glenbrook  {Adams's  hiiwinq  Haiise),  whence  a  steamer 
runs  to  Tahoe  City.  Numerous  summer  resorts  are  located  on  the  lake.  It  is 
about  22  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide,  is  6,247  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  surrounded 
by  snow-capped  mountain-peaks,  and  has  marvelously  clear  water  which  has 
been  sounded  to  a  depth  of  over  1,600  ft.  Small  steamers  circumnavigate  the 
lake,  and  enable  its  exquisite  scenery  to  be  viewed  to  great  advantage.  Twenty- 
one  miles  beyond  Carson  is  Virginia  City,  built  half-way  up  Mount  Davidsou. 
completely  environed  by  mountains,  and  containing  8,511  inhabitants,  about 
one  fifth  of  whom  are  usually  under  ground. 

Virginia  City  is  built  over  the  famous  Comstock  Lode,  which,  since 
the  date  of  its  discovery  in  1859,  has  produced  in  gold  and  silver  about 
$500,000,000,  and  is  now  yielding  about  $4,000,000  per  annum.  The 
ore  body  discovered  in  1872  in  the  "  Consolidated"  ground  was  of  such 
value  as  to  obtain  the  name  of  the  ''  Big  Bonanza." 

Tourists  may  leave  Reno  in  the  morning,  spend  the  day  at  Virginia  City 
examining  the  mines,  and  return  to  Reno  in  the  evening,  connecting  with  the 
overland  passenger-train  (fare,  $4  round  trip).  An  excellent  way  to  make  the 
excursion  described  above  will  be  to  go  direct  from  Reno  to  Virginia  City,  then 
return  to  Carson  and  take  the  stage  for  Lake  Tahoe,  cross  the  lake  to  Tahoe 
City,  and  take  the  stage  thence  to  Truckee  on  the  S.  P.  R.  R. 

Truckee  (1,656  miles)  is  the  first  important  station  in  California, 
and  is  a  handsomely-built  town  of  1,350  inhabitants,  perched  high  up 
amid  the  Sierras.  Three  miles  from  the  town  is  the  lovely  *  Donner 
Lake,  embosomed  in  the  lap  of  towering  hills ;  and  daily  stages  (fare, 
$2)   run  to  Tahoe  City  on  Lake  Tahoe  (see   above).     Sitmmit  (1,671 


Route  90.']  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FRANCISCO.  399 

miles)  is  the  highest  point  on  the  Central  Pacific  road  (7,042  ft.),  and 
the  scenery  around  the  station  is  indescribably  beautiful  and  impress- 
ive. "A  grander  or  more  exhilarating  ride  than  that  from  Summit 
to  Colfax,"  says  Mr.  NordhofE,  "you  can  not  find  in  the  world.  The 
scenery  is  various,  novel,  magnificent.  You  sit  in  an  open  car  at  the 
end  of  the  train,  and  the  roar  of  the  wind,  the  rush  and  vehement 
impetus  of  the  train,  and  the  whirl  around  curves,  past  the  edge  of 
deep  chasms,  among  forests  of  magnificent  trees,  fill  you  with  excite- 
ment, wonder,  and  delight.  .  .  .  The  entrance  to  California  is  as  wonder- 
ful and  charming  as  though  it  were  the  gate  to  a  veritable  fairy  land. 
All  its  sights  are  peculiar  and  striking :  as  you  pass  down  from  Summit 
the  very  color  of  the  soil  seems  different  from  and  richer  than  that  you 
are  accustomed  to  at  home ;  the  farm-houses,  with  their  broad  piazzas, 
speak  of  a  summer  climate ;  the  flowers,  brilliant  at  the  roadside,  are  new 
to  Eastern  eyes ;  and  at  every  turn  of  the  road  new  surprises  await  you." 
From  Summit  to  Sacramento  is  a  distance  of  106  miles,  and  between 
these  places  the  descent  from  a  height  nearly  half  as  great  as  that  of 
Mont  Blanc  to  56  ft.  above  the  sea-level  has  to  be  made.  The  line  is 
carried  along  the  edge  of  pi-ecipices  plunging  downward  for  2,000  or 
3,000  ft.,  and  in  some  parts  upon  a  narrow  ledge  excavated  from  the 
mountain-side  by  men  swung  down  in  baskets.  It  is  thus  at  ^Cape  Horn, 
a  point  grand  and  imposing  in  the  extreme,  which  is  passed  just  before 
Colfax  (1,'722  miles).  Sacramento  {Golden  Eagle,  Capitol,  Western, 
State-House)  is  the  capital  of  California,  the  fourth  city  of  the  State  in  size, 
having  a  population  of  26,386,  and  second  in  commercial  importance.  It 
is  built  on  an  extensive  plain  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Sacramento  River, 
immediately  S.  of  the  present  mouth  of  the  American  River.  Its  site  is 
very  low,  and  the  city  formerly  suffered  from  inundations ;  but  the  busi- 
ness portion  has  been  artificially  raised,  and  the  whole  city  surrounded  by 
a  strong  levee.  The  streets  are  straight  and  wide,  and  cross  each  other 
at  right  angles  ;  the  shops  and  stores  are  mostly  of  brick ;  the  dwellings 
are  handsome,  and  surrounded  by  gardens.  Shade-trees  are  abundant, 
and  a  luxuriant  growth  of  flowers  and  shrubs  may  be  seen  in  the  open 
air  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  important  public  buildings  are  the 
*  State  Capitol,  one  of  the  finest  structures  of  the  kind  in  the  United 
States  (containing  a  marble  statue,  by  L.  G.  Meade,  of  "  Columbus  ap- 
pealing to  Isabella,"  presented  by  D.  0.  Mills,  and  two  large  paintings, 
"  Crossing  the  Plains  "  and  "  Miner's  Camp  in  Early  Day,"  by  Charles 
G.  Nahl),  the  Court-House,  and  the  City  Hall.  The  Capitol  is  situated 
almost  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  the  gi-ounds  cover  eighteen  blocks, 
beautifully  laid  out  with  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers.  The  State  Library, 
in  the  Capitol,  has  upward  of  85,000  volumes,  and  the  Free  Public 
Library,  in  a  fine  building  belonging  to  the  city,  about  16,000  volumes. 
The  Masons,  the  Odd-Fellows,  and  the  Knights  of  Pythias  have  hand- 
some, large  buildings,  and  the  national  Government  is  constructing  a 
building  for  which  an  appropriation  of  $500,000  has  been  recommend- 
ed. The  State  Agricultural  Society  has  ample  accommodations  for  the 
exhibition  of  stock,  one  of  the  finest  race-courses  in  the  world,  and  a 
pavilion  that  cost  over  $100,000,  for  the  display  of  the  resources  of 


400  OMAHA   TO    SAN   FRANCISCO.  [Boute  90. 

the  State.  It  holds  a  fair  annually,  about  the  middle  of  September. 
There  are  a  number  of  fine  churches  in  the  city,  notably  the  Catholic 
Cathedral^  costing  nearly  |250,OtiO,  many  schools,  charitable  institu- 
tions, a  convent,  and  several  manufactories  and  machine-shops.  The 
Crocker  Art-Gallery  was  presented  to  the  city  by  Mrs,  Margaret  E. 
Crocker,  and  in  the  building  is  a  flourishing  Ay^t-School.  Besides  sev- 
eral hundred  paintings  there  is  also  a  fine  collection  of  California  min- 
erals. Oak  Park  and  Highland  Park  are  suburban  additions  to  Sacra- 
mento, lying  S.  E.  on  the  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  and  connected 
with  the  city  by  electric  and  other  street  railways. 

The  through  trains  from  Sacramento  to  San  Francisco  pursue  a  very 
pleasant  route,  being  for  the  most  part  through  the  valleys  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  .Joaquin.  Benicia,  57  miles  from  Sacramento,  is  a 
thriving  town  of  2,591  inhabitants,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Straits  of 
Carquinez^  and  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  the  largest  ships.  Here 
are  the  large  depot  and  machine-shops  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Co., 
the  United  States  Arsenal^  and  several  noted  educational  institutions,  Cath- 
olic and  Protestant.  The  trains  cross  the  straits  on  a  mammoth  ferry- 
boat, and  in  2*7  miles  reach  Oakland  [Albany,  Central^  Crellin^  Galindo, 
Windsor),  a  beautiful  city  of  48,682  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  E. 
shore  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  nearly  opposite  San  Francisco,  of  which 
it  is  practically  a  suburb.  It  is  a  favorite  residence  of  persons  doing 
business  in  San  Francisco.  The  Fabiola  Hospntal  is  at  the  cor.  of  Moss 
Ave.  and  Broadway.  Oakland  is  luxuriantly  shaded,  five-oak  being  the 
favorite  tree,  is  remarkably  well  built,  and  has  a  delightful  climate.  At 
Berkeley,  4  miles  N.,  is  the  State  University,  which  is  open  to  both  sexes, 
and  where  tuition  is  free.  The  train  passes  around  the  city  to  Oakland 
Point,  where  the  company  has  built  an  immense  pier  2J  miles  into  the 
bay.  From  this  pier  (which  is  well  worth  notice)  a  ferry-boat  conveys 
the  passengers  and  freight  to  San  Francisco,  3  miles  distant. 

The  old  route  from  Sacramento  to  San  Francisco,  and  now  used  only 
for  local  travel,  is  via  Stockton,  54  miles  from  Sacramento.  It  is  by 
this  route  that  most  of  the  passengers  by  the  Southern  Pacific  and  other 
routes  coming  into  the  State  on  the  south  enter  and  leave  Sacramento. 
Stockton  contains  14,424  inhabitants,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  tide-navi- 
gation on  the  San  Joaquin  Kiver,  and  the  principal  hotels  are  the  Yosem- 
ite,  Mansion,  and  Grand  Centred.  It  occupies  a  level  site,  and  is  substan- 
tially and  compactly  built,  with  handsome,  wide  streets,  and  public  build- 
ings that  indicate  entei'prise  and  taste.  The  Court-House  and  City  Hall, 
near  the  center  of  the  city,  are  surrounded  with  choice  shade-trees  and 
shrubbery,  as  are  also  many  of  the  residences.  The  business  blocks  are 
principally  of  brick,  and  there  are  several  handsome  churches  and  school- 
houses.  The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  located  here,  and  its  spacious 
buildings  are  seen  just  before  the  train  enters  the  city. 

The  *  Calaveras  Grove  of  Big  Trees  is  best  visited  by  rail  from  San 
Francisco  to  Lodi,  thence  by  Narrow-Gauge  R.  R.  to  Valley  Springs,  and  thence 
by  stage  25  miles  to  Murphy''s.  It  is  usual  to  stay  overnight  at  Mm'phy's,  and 
take  the  stage  in  the  morning  for  the  Big  Trees,  10  miles  distant.  There  is  a 
good  hotel  at  the  grove.  The  grove  occupies  a  belt  3,200  ft.  long  by  700  ft.  broad. 


MLAP  OK 

SAN  FRANCISCO, 

CALIFORNIA. 

SCALE  OF  FEET 


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REFERENCES. 


PROMINENT  INSTITUTIONS 


IS.CilyU.nJ,".'?'"''"'' 

19.  Custom  House  and  P.  0.,  N 

20.  Pirst  Nuionol  BMk,  N.  3 

22.  Mercantile  Library,  N.  3 


J       JMnoDoopoopfi 


(^  Co.,  Compute  En^aving and  , 


] 


Route  91.]  SAN   FEAI^CISCO.  401 

in  a  depression  between  two  slopes,  through  which  meanders  a  small  brook 
that  dries  up  in  summer.  There  are  93  trees  of  large  size  in  the  grove,  and  a 
considerable  number  of  smaller  ones,  chiefly  on  the  outskirts.  Several  have 
fallen  since  the  grove  was  first  discovered,  one  has  been  cut  down,  and  one  has 
had  the  bark  stripped  from  it  up  to  the  height  of  116  ft.  above  the  ground.  The 
tallest  now  standing  is  the  Keystone  State,  which  is  32.5  ft.  high  and  45  ft.  in  cir- 
cumference :  and  the  largest  and  finest  is  the  Emjnre  State.  There  are  4  trees 
over  300  ft.  high  and  from  40  to  61  ft.  in  circumference.  Their  age  is  supposed 
to  be  about  1,500  years.  The  tree  which  was  cut  down  occupied  5  men  22  days, 
pump-augers  being  used  for  boring  through  the  tree.  After  the  trunk  was  sev- 
ered from  the  stump,  it  took  the  5  men  3  days,  with  ponderous  wedges,  to  topple 
it  over.  The  bark  was  18  inches  thick.— The  Stanislaus  Grove  (or  South 
G-rove)  is  situated  on  Beaver  Creek,  5  miles  S.  E.  of  the  Calaveras  Grove.  There 
are  700  or  800  trees  iu  this  grove,  several  of  them  being  very  fine  specimens 
and  in  excellent  condition.  The  grove  is  often  visited  by  tourists,  who  ride  over 
from  the  hotel  in  the  other  grove,  where  horses  and  guides  are  furnished. 

At  Lathrop  (1,833  miles)  the  Yisalia  Div.  of  the  Central  Pacific  R. 
R.  diverges,  and  constitutes  one  of  the  routes  to  the  Yosemite  Valley 
(see  Route  92).  Beyond  Lathrop,  on  the  main  line,  a  number  of  small 
stations  are  passed,  and  the  train  soon  reaches  Oakland  (see  page  400). 


91.  San  Francisco. 

Hotels. — Baldwin,  cor.  Market  and  Powell  Sts. ;  Beresford,  cor.  Bush  and 
Stockton  Sts.;  California,  in  Bush  St.  near  Grant  Ave.;  Ch^and,  cor.  Market 
and  Montgomery  Sts. ;  Langham,  cor.  Ellis  and  Mason  Sts.;  LicTc,  cor.  Mont- 
gomery and  Sutter  Sts. ;  Occidental,  cor.  Montgomery  and  Bush  Sts. ;  Palace, 
cor.  Market  and  Montgomery  Sts.;  and  Rxiss,  in  Montgomery  St.,  between 
Bush  and  Pine  Sts.     There  are  also  a  number  of  excellent  family  hotels. 

Kestaiirants.  —  Restaurants,  chop-houses,  rotisfieries,  abound  in  every 
(quarter  of  San  Francisco.  Chop-houses  and  rotisseries  differ  from  restaurants, 
in  that  the  cooking-furnaces  are  arranged  on  one  side  of  the  room,  and  each  per- 
son can  select  the  raw  food  and  have  it  cooked  right  before  his  eyes.  There 
are  also  numerous  tables-dlwte ,  where,  by  paying  from  50c.  to  %1,  one  can  sit 
at  the  table  and  call  for  anything  he  likes,  provided  it  is  on  the  bill  of  fare, 
including  wines.  The  Maiscyn  Doree,  Tortoni,  California  Hotel  Cafe,  liaison 
Pdche^  and  the  Palctce  Hotel  Cafe,  are  noted  for  the  excellence  of  their  cuisines. 
At  the  Viticidtural  Cafe  and  ^Restaurant,  317  Pine  St.,  piu'e  California  wines 
are  procurable. 

Modes  of  Conveyance.— ^Yree^-car^  (fare,  5c.)  intersect  the  city  in  every 
direction,  and  most  of  them  run  to  the  foot  of  Market  St.  Steam-cars  run  out  to 
the  Cliff  House.  Ha/ikney -carriages  are  in  waiting  at  the  steamer-landings 
and  at  various  stands  in  the  city  (they  may  be  found  at  all  hours  at  the  Plaza, 
opposite  the  City  Hall,  Kearny  St.,  and  on  Sutter  St.  just  above  Kearny).  The 
legal  charges  are  :  For  a  carriage  drawn  by  more  than  1  horse,  for  1  person, 
not  exceeding  1  mile,  $1.50 ;  for  more  than  1  person,  not  exceeding  1  mile, 
$2.50  ;  for  each  additional  mile,  for  each  passenger,  50c.  By  the  hour,  ,$2  for 
the  first  hour,  and  $1.50  for  each  subsequent  hour.  For  a  cab  drawn  by  i  horse, 
for  1  person,  not  exceeding  1  mile,  50c.  ;  for  more  than  1  person,  not  exceeding 

1  mile,  $1 ;  for  each  passeliger,  for  each  additional  mile,  25c.    By  the  hour  (for 

2  persons),  $1.50  for  the  first  hour,  and  $1  for  each  subsequent  hour.    No  extra 
charge  is  allowed  for  ordinary  baggage. 

Ferries.— All  the  ferries,  viz.,  to  Oakland,  Alameda,  Saucelito,  San  Quen- 
tin.  Berkeley,  San  Rafael,  and  Tiburon,  run  from  the  foot  of  Market  St. 

Theatres  and.  Am-asements.— The  Grand  Opera-HoiAse,^  which  is  the 
largest  theatre  in  the  city  (in  Mission  St.  near  3d),  the  Ccdifoi-nia  Theatre  (414 
Bush  St.),  and  the  Baidv:in  Theatre  (9ofi  Market  St.),  are  the  important  thea- 
tres, devoted  to  the  higher  class  of  amusements.  The  Bush  St.  Theatre,  in  Bush 
St.,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearny  Sts.,  is  devoted  to  varieties  and  negi-o 
minstrelsy.  StocktvdVs  Theatre  (in  Powell  St.  near  Market),  the  Casino.^  and 
26 


402  SAN  FKANCisco.  [Route  91. 

the  Alcazar  (at  114  O'Farrell  St.),  are  cheaper  theatres.  Cheap  opera  is  a  feature 
of  San  Francisco  ;  and  at  the  Tivoli  (in  Eddy  St.)  an  excellent  performance  in 
opera  is  given  ;  beer  is  sold,  and  smoking  in  certain  parts  of  the  house  per- 
mitted. There  are  two  Chinese  Theatres,  one  at  629  Jackson  St.,  and  the 
other  at  816  Washington  St.,  which  attract  considerable  patronage  from  tour- 
ists and  visitors  on  account  of  the  unique  character  of  the  performances.  The 
principal  Bace-cotirse  is  near  Golden  Gate  Park,  which  is  much  frequented ; 
and  there  is  a  speed  race-course  in  Golden  Gate  Park.  The  Olyminc  Club 
Gi'ounds  for  athletic  sports  include  the  place  where  the  California  League 
games  are  played. 

Reading-Kooms.— In  all  the  leading  hotels  there  are  reading-rooms  for  the 
use  of  the  guests,  supplied  with  newspapers,  etc.  The  Free  Library,  in  the  new 
City  Hall,  was  opened  in  1879,  and  is  supported  by  a  percentage  of  the  taxes  on 
public  property,  giving  it  an  income  varying  from  $40,000  to  .$50,000  a  year.  The 
library  contains  70.000  volumes,  and  the  average  number  of  visitors  is  1,200  a 
day.  It  has  branches  at  convenient  points  in  the  city.  The  Mercantile  Library, 
at  Van  Ness  and  Golden  Gate  Aves.,  has  62,000  volumes,  a  well-supplied  read- 
ing-room, and  extensive  chess-rooms  (open  from  8  A.  si.  to  7  p.  m.).  The  Me- 
chanics'' Institute  Library,  31  Post  St.,  has  a  library  of  45,000  volumes,  and  a 
reading-room  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  ai.).  The  Laiv  Library,  in  the  new- 
City  Hall,  has  30,000  volumes,  and  is  open  from  9  A.  ai.  to  10  p.  m.  The  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association,  232  Sutter  St.,  has  a  library  of  4,030  volumes,  and 
a  reading-room  (open  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.). 

Clubs.— The  Pacific-  Union  Club  has  rooms  at  the  N.  W.  corner  of  Post  and 
Stockton  Sts.  The  Olympic  Club  has  a  fine  house  in  Post  St.  near  Mason  St. 
The  Cosinos  Club,  317  Powell  St.,  has  a  membership  of  iLilitary  and  naval  offi- 
cers. The  Bohemian  Club,  cor.  Grant  Ave.  and  Post  St.,  is  the  leading  literary 
association  in  California,  made  up  largely  of  authors,  jom-nalists,  actors,  musi- 
cians, and  professional  men.  The  University  Club  has  a  commodious  house 
on  Sutter  St.,  and  its  membership  includes  the  alumni  of  educational  institu- 
tions. The /S'a;^  .Frfmmco  Precis- CTw&  has  fine  rooms  at  430  Pine  St.  The  Cer- 
cle  Franqais^  421  Post  St.,  has  its  membership  among  the  French  residents. 
The  Ligue  Nationale  Frcmgaise,  305  Larkin  St.,  is  a  prosperous  club,  with  a 
French  library  of  14,000  volumes.  The  San  Francisco  Verein,  219  Sutter  St., 
has  a  library  of  6,000  volumes  and  a  reading-room.  The  Pacific  Turner  Bund, 
for  the  cultivation  of  gymnastic  exercises,  has  rooms  at  323  Turk  St.  The 
Concordia  Chib  is  a  Jewish  club,  with  a  fine  house  cor.  Van  Ness  Ave.  and 
Post  St.    Introduction  by  a  member  secures  the  privileges  of  these  clubs. 

Post-Office.— The  Post-Ofhce  is  at  the  cor.  of  Washington  and  Battery 
Sts.  Open  from  8  A.  m.  to  8  p.  m.  on  secular  days,  and  on  Sundays  from  9  to  10 
a.  m.    Letters  are  collected  6  times  daily  from  the  street-boxes. 

San  Francisco,  the  chief  city  of  California  and  commercial  metrop- 
olis of  the  Pacific  coast,  is  situated  at  the  N.  end  of  a  peninsula  which 
is  30  miles  long  and  6  miles  aci-oss  at  the  city,  and  separates  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay  from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  in  lat.  37°  46'  JS^.  and  Ion.  122°  46' 
W.  The  city  stands  on  the  E.  or  inner  slope  of  the  peninsula  and  at 
,  the  base  of  high  hills.  In  1846  these  hills  were  steep  and  cut  up  by 
numerous  gullies,  and  the  low  ground  at  their  base  was  narrow,  save 
in  what  is  now  the  S.  part  of  the  city,  where  there  was  a  succession  of 
ridges  of  loose,  barren  sand,  impassable  for  loaded  wagons.  The  sand- 
ridges  have  been  leveled,  the  gullies  and  hollow^s  filled  up,  and  the 
hills  cut  down;  and  where  large  ships  rode  at  anchor  in  1849  there  are 
now  paved  streets.  The  greater  part  of  the  peninsula  is  hilly,  bare  of 
trees,  and  unfit  for  cultivation;  the  roads  from  the  city  are  the  San. 
Bruno^  the  San  3figuel,  and  the  old  San  Jose  roads.  The  business 
streets  are  built  up  densely,  and  with  the  residential  portion  the  set- 
tled part  of  the  city  may  be  said  to  cover  an  area  of  9  square  miles. 
In  the  X.  E.  corner  of  the  city  is  Telegraph  Hill,  294  ft.  high ;  in  the 


Route  91.\  SAN    FEANCISCO.  403 

S.  E.  comer  Kincon  Hill,  120  ft.  high ;  and  on  the  W.  side  Russian  Hill, 
360  ft.  high.  The  densely-populated  quarters  are  in  the  amphitheatre 
formed  by  the  three  hills. 

The  history  of  San  Francisco  is  interesting  on  account  of  the  rapid  growth  of 
the  place.  The  first  house  was  built  in  1835.  when  the  village  was  called  Yerba 
Buena.  which  in  Spanish  means  "good herb  "  (wild  mint),  so  named  from  a  me- 
dicinal plant  growing  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity.  In  1847  this  was  changed  to 
San  Francisco  ;  and  in  1848,  the  year  that  gold  was  first  discovered  in  California 
by  the  white  settlers,  the  population  had  increased  to  1,000.  The  influx  from  the 
East  then  commenced,  and  in  December,  1850,  the  population  was  about  25,000. 
In  1860  it  was  56,802  ;  in  1870,  149,473  ;  and  in  1880,  according  to  the  census  re- 
turns, it  amounted  to  283,956.  In  1890  the  census  returns  showed  a  popula- 
tion of  298,997.  The  city  was  incorporated  in  1850,  and  the  city  and  county 
were  consolidated  in  1856.  In  1851  and  1856,  in  consequence  of  bad  municipal 
government  and  corrupt  administration  of  the  criminal  laws,  the  people  organ- 
ized YigUance  Committees,  and  summarily  executed  several  criminals  and  ban- 
ished others.  This  rough  but  wholesome  discipline  had  its  effect,  and  the  city 
is  now  one  of  the  most  orderly  in  the  country.  The  commerce  of  San  Fran- 
cisco is  very  large,  the  chief  articles  of  export  being  the  precious  metals,  bread- 
stuffs,  wines,  wool,  and  fruits  ;  and  of  import,  lumber,  coal,  coffee,  tea,  rice,  and 
sugar.  The  manufactures  are  important,  including  woolen  and  silk  mills,  and 
manufactories  of  watches,  carnages,  boots,  furniture,  candles,  acids,  wire-work, 
castings  of  iron  and  brass,  and  sUver-ware. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  though  not  on  a  uniform  plan.  The 
streets  are  broad,  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  business 
streets  are  generally  payed  with  Belgian  blocks  or  cobble-stones,  and 
many  of  the  residence  streets  have  sidewalks  of  stone  or  asphaltum. 
The  leading  thoroughfare  is  Market  St.,  which  is  broad  and  lined  with 
handsome  buildings.  At  its  S.  W.  end  it  formerly  extended  to  the 
top  of  a  hill  too  precipitous  for  the  ascent  of  Carriages.  But  recent 
improvements  have  removed  this  hill,  and  a  cable-road  runs  through 
the  street  from  the  ferry  to  Castro  St.  Market  St.  is  the  great  cen- 
ter of  a  cable  system  which  has  branches  running  in  Valencia,  Haight, 
Hayes,  Turk,  Geary,  Castro,  Oak,  and  McAllister  Sts.  All  these  lines 
converge  in  Market  St.,  and  all  have  one  common  terminus  at  the 
ferry.  Cable-roads  have  been  widely  extended  during  the  last  few 
years.  Besides  the  Market  St.  system,  with  its  branches,  there  are 
the  California  St.,  Sutter  St.,  Ferries  and  ClifF  House  road,  with 
branches.  Omnibus  cable  line  in  Post,  Leavenworth,  Ellis,  Oak,  and 
Howard  Sts.,  and  cable  lines  in  Geary  and  Union  Sts.,  with  trans- 
fers to  all  parts  of  the  city.  There  are  three  cross-town  lines,  one 
in  Larkin  and  Polk  Sts.,  one  in  Powell  St.,  and  the  other  in  Jones 
St.  These  cable  lines  afford  the  best  means  of  seeing  the  city,  as 
one  may  ride  on  the  dummy  in  the  open  air,  and  thus  obtain  as 
good  a  view  as  from  an  open  carriage.  There  is  completed  an  electric 
road  with  about  18  miles  of  double  track  running  to  the  cemeteries  in 
San  Mateo.  It  will  be  extended  ultimately  to  San  Jose,  a  distance  of 
50  miles.  Kearny,  Montgomery,  and  Market  Sts.  are  the  fashionable 
promenades,  and  contain  some  of  the  largest  retail  shops.  The  prin- 
cipal banks  and  brokers'  and  insurance  offices  are  located  in  Montgom- 
ery, California,  and  Pine  Sts.  The  importers  and  jobbers  are  m  Front, 
Sansome,  Montgomery,  Battery  Sts.,  and  lower  end  of  Market  St.  The 
handsomest  private  residences  are  in  California  St.  Hill  (Xob  Hill),  Van 


404  SAN   FKAI^CISCO.  [Route  91. 

Ness  Ave.,  Clay  St.  Hill,  Pine  St.  Hill,  Pacific  Avenue  Heights,  and 
Washington,  Jackson,  Fi^anklin,  Taylor,  Bush,  Sutter,  and  Leavenworth 
Sts.  Especially  worth  seeing  are  the  Mark  Hopkins  Mansion,  cor.  of 
Mason  and  California  Sts. ;  the  Charles  Crocker  Mansion,  cor.  Califor- 
nia and  Taylor  Sts. ;  the  James  C.  Flood  Mansion,  cor.  California  and 
Jones  Sts. ;  the  residence  of  Leland  Stanford,  cor.  Powell  and  Cali- 
fornia Sts.  ;  and  that  of  Lloyd  Trevis,  cor.  of  Taylor  and  Jack- 
son Sts. 

A  stranger's  first  impression  of  San  Francisco  is  that  there  are  no 
public  buildings,  though  the  new  City  Hail,  now  partially  completed, 
in  Yerba  Buena  Park,  bounded  by  Park  Ave.,  MacAUister,  and  Larkin 
Sts.,  is  a  fine  structure,  surpassed  by  few  in  the  United  States.  The 
U.  S.  Appraiser'' s  Building  is  a  spacious  four-story  structure  in  Sansome 
St.,  extending  from  Jackson  to  Washington  Sts.  The  Custom-House^ 
which  also  contains  the  Post-Office^  is  at  the  cor.  of  Battery  and  Wash- 
ington Sts.  A  new  Post-Office  will  be  built  at  the  cor.  of  Mission  and 
Vth  Sts.  The  *U.  S.  Branch  Mint  is  a  massive  stone  structure  in 
the  Doric-Ionic  style,  at  the  cor.  of  5th  and  Mission  Sts.  The  machinery 
here  is  believed  to  be  unapproachable  in  perfection  and  efficiency  (visit- 
ors are  admitted  from  10  a.  m.  to  12  m.).  The  U.  S.  Treasury  is  located 
in  Commercial  St.  (office-hours,  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m.).  The  San  Francisco 
Stock  Exchange  is  a  splendid  six-stoiy  granite  and  marble  edifice  in  Pine 
St.,  surmounted  by  a  handsome  tower.  The  *  Merchants'  Exchange, 
on  the  S.  side  of  California  St.,  between  Montgomery  and  Sansome  Sts., 
is  one  of  the  most  costly  and  spacious  buildings  in  the  city.  The  Ex- 
change is  a  splendid  room  in  the  first  story,  with  lofty  ceiling,  and  is 
well  supplied  with  the  leading  papers  and  magazines,  uome  and  foreign. 
In  the  tower  over  the  building  is  a  fine  clock.  Other  notable  commercial 
buildings  are  those  of  the  *Bank  of  California,  the  Safe-Deposit 
Bank^  in  California  St.,  the  Nevada  Bank^  cor.  Montgomery  and  Pine, 
the  Anglo- Ccdifornian  Bank,  in  Sansome  St.,  at  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Pine; 
and  the  First  Ncdioncd  Bank,  at  the  N.  W.  cor.  of  Bush  and  Sansome 
Sts.,  is  the  handsomest  bank  building  in  the  city.  The  *  Palace  Hotel 
is  a  vast  and  ornate  building,  at  the  cor.  of  Market  and  New  Montgomery 
Sts.,  275  by  350  ft.,  9  stories,  erected  at  a  cost  (including  furniture)  of 
$'7,OoO,000.  It  is  entered  by  a  grand  court-yard  surrounded  by  col- 
onnades, and  from  the  roof  (reached  by  elevator)  a  bird's-eye  view  of 
■the  whole  city  can  be  obtained.  It  is  connected  by  a  bridge  with  the 
Grand  Hotel,  both  being  under  one  management.  Another  palatial 
structure  is  the  ^  Balchmi  Hotel,  at  the  cor.  of  Market  and  Powell 
Sts. ;  though  smaller  than  the  Palace,  it  cost  $3,500,000.  The  Flood 
Building,  at  4th  and  Market  Sts.,  cost  $1,500,000,  and  is  rented 
for  offices.  The  building  of  the  *  Mercantile  Library,  at  the  cor. 
of  Van  Ness  and  Golden  Gate  Aves.,  is  large  and  fine,  of  brick  and 
stone,  three  stories  high.  The  library  contains  62,000  volumes,  and 
there  are  several  reading-rooms,  chess-rooms,  and  an  unusually  fine 
collection  of  pictures.  The  building  is  of  recent  erection  and  con- 
tains late  library  improvements.  The  Odd-Fellows''  Hall  is  a  splendid 
and  commodious  building,  at  the  cor.  of  Market  and  7th  Sts.,  lately 


Route  91.}  SAN"   FEANCISCO.  405 

completed  and  occupied  by  the  order.  The  Mechanics'  Listittde  is  a 
substantial  building  in  Post  St.,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearny, 
with  a  library  of  45,000  v^olumes.  The  building  of  the  San  Francisco 
Chronicle  is  a  striking  edifice,  being  nine  stories  high,  with  a  tower 
210  ft.  high,  located  at  the  Junction  of  Market,  Kearny,  and  Geary  Sts. 
The  Mark  Hopkins  and  D.  0.  Mills  BulMings  are  conspicuous  office- 
structures.  The  *  California  Market,  for  fruits,  vegetables,  meat, 
and  produce  of  all  kinds,  is  one  of  the  sights  of  San  Francisco.  It  is 
between  Kearny  and  Montgomery  Sts.,  extending  through  from  Pine  to 
California.  The  Center  Market^  at  the  cor.  of  Sutter  and  Dupont  Sts., 
is  well  worth  visiting ;  and  the  old  Washington  Market^  in  the  street  of 
that  name,  is  specially  worth  a  visit  in  the  early  morning.  The  Cali- 
fornia Academy  of  Sciences  occupies  a  handsome  five-story  structure 
in  Market  St.  near*4th,  which  cost  $400,000.  The  Mining  Bureau  and 
Pioneers''  Building.,  in  4th  St.  near  Market,  contain  both  a  fine  collection 
of  minerals  and  relics  of  early  experiences  in  California.  The  striking 
features  of  recent  edifices  is  in  the  height  of  office-buildings,  construct- 
ed of  steel,  stone,  brick  and  terra-cotta.  Notable  among  these  are  the 
Crocker  Building  (11  stories),  cor.  Market  and  Post  Sts.,  which  cost 
$1,000,000 ;  and  the  Mills  Builditig,  cor.  Bush  and  Montgomery  Sts., 
which  cost  $1,500,000. 

One  of  the  largest  and  finest  church-edifices  on  the  Pacific  coast  is 
that  of  *St.  Ignatius  Church  and  College  (Roman  Cathohc),  in 
Van  Ness  Ave.  It  will  accommodate  3,500  persons.  St.  3Ia7'g\s  Cathe- 
dral, at  Van  Ness  Ave.  and  O'Farrell  St.,  is  Romanesque,  will  seat  4,000 
persons,  and  has  a  magnificent  altar  of  marble  and  onyx,  imported  from 
Munich,  with  the  finest  stained-glass  windows  on  the  coast.  The  finest 
interior  is  that  of  old  *  St.  Patrick's  (Roman  Catholic),  in  Mission  St. 
near  3d.  St.  Marges  Cathedral  (Roman  Catholic),  cor.  California  and 
Dupont  Sts.,  is  a  noble  building  in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  spire  200 
ft.  high.  The  church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe,  in  Broadway 
near  Mason  St.,  is  maintained  by  Spanish  and  Portuguese  residents,  and 
the  services  are  in  those  languages.  *  Grace  Church  (Episcopal),  cor. 
California  and  Stockton  Sts.,  is  a  stone  building  with  stained-glass  win- 
dows. Other  Episcopal  churches  are  St.  Johnh,  cor.  Valencia  and  13th 
Sts. ;  Church  of  the  Advent,  in  11th  St.  near  Market;  and  Trinity,  cor. 
Bush  and  Gough  Sts.  The  temple  Beth  Israel,  in  Geary  St.  near  Octa- 
via,  is  a  handsome  structure,  and  is  attended  by  wealthy  Hebrews.  The 
Calvary  Presbyterian,  cor.  Geary  and  Powell  Sts.,  is  a  large  and  costly 
edifice,  in  the  Composite  style.  The  Pirst  Methodist,  in  Powell  St.,  be- 
tween Washing-ton  and  Jackson,  was  founded  in  1849,  and  is  the  oldest 
of  the  denomination  in  the  city.  The  First  Baptist  is  in  Eddy  St.,  be- 
tween Jones  and  Leavenworth  Sts. ;  the  Columbia  Sguca^e  Baptist,  in 
Russ  St.,  between  Howard  and  Folsom  ;  and  the  ^  First  Congregational, 
cor.  Post  and  Mason  Sts.  The  Jewish  Synagogue  of  *Emanu-El, 
in  Sutter  St.,  between .  Stockton  and  Powell,  is  a  large  structure  in  the 
Byzantine  style  of  architecture,  with  two  lofty  towers,  and  richly-deco- 
rated interior.  That  of  the  Sherith-Israel,  cor.  of  Post  and  Taylor  Sts., 
is  an  imposing  structure ;  the  lofty  ceiling,  arched  and  frescoed  in  imita- 


406  SAN   FRAKCISCO.  [Koute  91. 

tion  of  the  sky  at  night,  is  much  admired.  The  Chmese  Mission  House^ 
cor.  of  Stockton  and  Sacramento  Sts.,  and  the  Joss-Houses,  at  751  Clay 
St.,  230  Montgomery  Ave.,  and  512  Pine  St.,  will  prove  interesting  to 
strangers. 

The  most  important  educational  institutions  near  San  Francisco  are 
the  University  of  California,  at  Berkeley  (see  p.  400),  and 
the  Leland  Stanford,  Jr.,  University,  at  Palo  Alto.  In  the 
city  are  an  excellent  School  of  Design  and  Art  Association  combined, 
two  Medical  Colleges,  and  several  Academies.  Among  the  charitable 
institutions  the  principal  are  the  United  States  Marine  Hospital,  in  exten- 
sive and  handsome  new  buildings,  on  the  Presidio  Reservation,  W.  of  the 
city ;  the  New  City  Hospital,  in  the  S.  part  of  the  city ;  St.  Mary's  Hos- 
pital (Roman  Catholic),  cor.  of  Bryant  and  1st  Sts. ;  the  State  Woman'' s 
Hospital,  cor.  12th  and  Howard  Sts. ;  the  Children'' s  Hospital,  in  Cali- 
fornia St. ;  the  Almshouse,  on  the  San  Miguel  Road,  in  the  suburbs ;  the 
Protestant  Orphan  Asylum,  in  Laguna  St.,  near  Haight ;  and  the  Roman 
Catholic  Orjjhan  Asylum,  in  S.  San  Francisco.  The  Alameda  Park 
Asylum  for  the  Insane  is  situated  on  the  Encinal,  Alameda.  The  fine 
building  of  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind,  near  Oak- 
land, was  burned  in  1875,  and  now  rebuilt. 

The  *  Golden  Gate  Park,  W.  of  the  city,  comprises  1,043  acres, 
about  one  half  of  which  is  beautifully  laid  out  in  walks,  drives,  lawns, 
etc.  One  of  the  features  of  the  Park  is  a  magnificent  conservatory,  in 
which,  at  the  proper  season,  the  only  specimen  of  the  Victoria  Regia  lily 
in  America  can  be  seen ;  the  building  is  modeled  after  the  Royal  Conserv- 
atories at  Kew,  England,  and  stands  facing  the  main  drive.  To  the 
left  of  the  Pavilion  is  laid  out  an  extensive  promenade,  in  the  midst 
of  which  the  Garfield  Monument  stands.  The  music-stand  is  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  Park,  and  facing  it  is  the  fine  statue,  by  W.  W.  Story,  of 
Francis  Scott  Key,  author  of  "  The  Star-Spangled  Banner,"  donated  by 
James  Lick.  Near  by  is  the  Children's  Play-House  and  Grounds,  the 
gift  of  Senator  William  Sharon.  The  Park  is  reached  by  several  lines 
of  cable-cars.  Portsmouth  Square,  commonly  called  the  Plaza  (W. 
side  of  Kearny  St.,  from  Washington  to  Clay  Sts.),  is  inclosed  with  a 
handsome  iron  railing,  is  tastefully  improved  with  gravel-walks,  trees, 
shrubs,  and  grass-plots,  and  has  a  fountain  in  the  center.  Wash'ington 
Sq^care,  Union  Square,  and  Columhia  Square,  have  also  been  neatly 
laid  out  and  planted  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  *  Laurel  Hill 
Cemetery  is  in  many  respects  unsurpassed.  It  lies  2-J  miles  W^.  of  the 
principal  hotels  (reached  by  California  St.,  Sutter  St.,  Geary  St.,  and 
ferries  and  Cliff  House  cable-cars).  In  the  vicinity  of  the  cemetery  is 
Lone  Mountain,  of  conical  shape,  which  rises  up  singly  and  alone  to  a 
considerable  height  above  the  surrounding  country,  which  is  tolerably 
level.  On  its  summit  is  a  large  wooden  cross ;  and  both  mountain  and 
cross  are  very  conspicuous,  and  may  be  seen  from  almost  any  part  of  the 
city.  There  are  several  fine  monuments  in  the  cemetery,  that  of  Senator 
David  C.  Broderick  and  William  C.  Ralston  (modeled  after  the  Pantheon 
at  Rome)  being  especially  noteworthy;  but  the  great  feature  is  Lone 
Mountain,  with  its  unrivaled  outlook,  embracing  views  of  the  city,  bay, 


Route  91.]  SAX   FRANCISCO.  407 

oeeau,  Mount  Diablo,  and  the  Coast  Range.  There  are  several  other 
cemeteries,  among  which  are  the  Calvary  (Roman  Catholic),  which  con- 
tains many  costly  tombs,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  those  of 
O'Brien,  Flood  (the  "Bonanza  Kings"),  and  Donahue,  the  Masonic,  and 
the  Odd-Fellows'. 

There  are  about  22,000  Chinese  in  San  Francisco,  and  the  "Chi- 
nese Quarter "  comprises  portions  of  Sacramento,  Commercial,  Du- 
pont.  Pacific,  and  Jackson  Sts.  Here  they  hold  undisputed  posses- 
sion of  several  blocks,  and  the  houses  are  crammed  from  sub-cellar 
to  aftic.  No  stranger  in  San  Francisco,  who  has  leisure,  should  fail 
to  visit  one  of  the  two  Chinese  Theatres.  He  will  find  the  entire 
audience,  not  excepting  the  women,  who  have  a  gallery  to  them- 
selves, smoking  energetically,  and  the  performance  is  carried  on  amid 
the  clashing  of  cymbals,  the  beating  of  drums  and  gongs,  the  blow- 
ing of  trumpets,  and  other  kinds  of  noise.  A  visit  to  the  Gambling- 
houses  and  Opiicm-cellars  will  repay  the  curious  tourist ;  but  it  had 
better  be  made  in  company  with  a  guide.  The  Chinese  are  probably 
the  most  inveterate  gamblers  in  the  world,  and  they  nearly  all  gamble. 
In  a  cellar,  greasy  and  dirty  and  filled  with  smoke,  eighty  or  a  hundred 
will  be  found  sitting  around  tables,  betting.  Their  mode  of  gambling  is 
simple :  some  one  throws  a  handful  of  copper  coins  on  the  table,  and, 
after  putting  up  stakes,  they  bet  whether  the  number  of  coins  is  odd  or 
even;  then  they  count  them  and  declare  the  i-esult.  The  opium-cel- 
lars are  fitted  up  with  benches  or  shelves,  on  each  of  which  will  be 
found  a  couple  of  Chinamen  lying  on  the  boards  with  a  wooden  box  for 
a  pillow.  They  smoke  in  pairs;  while  one  smokes  and  prepares  the 
opium,  the  other  is  dozing  in  a  half -drunken  sleep.  There  are  three 
Temples,  and  at  all  times  the  visitor  will  find  them  open  and  joss-sticks 
smoking  in  front  of  the  favorite  gods.  The  Chinese  Merchants'  Ex- 
change and  their  famous  restaurant,  in  Grant  Ave.  near  Clay  St.,  should 
be  visited. 

One  of  the  chief  points  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  is  the  famous 
■^  Cliff  House,  on  Point  Lobos,  or  the  South  Head  of  the  Golden 
Gate,  on  the  edge  of  cliffs  rising  from  the  ocean  and  facing  west; 
while  behind  it  rise  S^(tro  Heights,  the  gardens  of  Adolph  Sutro, 
to  which  the  public  are  admitted  free.  The  conservatory  is  well 
worth  a  visit,  while  the  grounds  include  the  largest  and  choicest  col- 
lection of  flowering  plants  in  the  State.  Mr.  Sutro  has  established 
in  the  city  a  free  consulting  library ;  his  collection  now  numbers  about 
110,000  volumes,  including  many  rare  works  not  to  be  found  in 
any  other  American  library.  The  Cliff  House  is  6  miles  from  the 
ferries,  and  is  reached  by  a  drive  through  Golden  Gate  Park,  or 
through  Geary  St.  and  Point  Lobos  Ave.,  or  by  Haight  St.  cable- 
cars  to  Park  and  thence  by  Park  and  Ocean  steam-cars,  or  by  the 
ferries  and  Cliff  House  cable-road,  and  steam-cars.  The  restaurant 
attached  to  the  house  is  famous  for  its  excellence.  Seal  Rock  is  close 
by  the  hotel,  and  the  greatest  charm  of  the  place  is  to  lounge  on  the 
wide,  shady  piazza  and  watch  the  seals  (more  properly  sea-lions)  basking 
in  the  sun  or  wi'iggling  over  the  rocks,  barking  so  noisily  as  to  be  heard 


408  SAN  FEAXCISCO.  [Route  91. 

above  the  roar  of  the  breakers.  Northward  lies  the  Golden  Gate,  the 
beautiful  entrance  to  San  Francisco  Bay.  Southward  is  the  beach  be- 
yond, a  rocky  shore  whose  outlines  melt  in  the  blue  distance.  In  front 
is  the  ocean,  on  whose  horizon  on  a  clear  day  the  peaks  of  the  Farallone 
Islands  are  visible.  The  road  passes  bevond  the  hotel  to  a  beach  several 
miles  long,  over  which  at  low  tide  one  can  drive  to  its  extreme  end,  and 
return  to  the  city  by  a  road  behind  the  Mission  Hills.  Another  popular 
driv^e  is  through  Golden  Gate  Park  to  the  beach  near  the  Cliff  House. 
Presidio  Reservation,  the  property  of  the  Federal  Government,  lies  on 
the  narrowest  portion  of  the  Golden  Gate,  and  has  miles  of  beautiful 
drives.  It  is  reached  by  California  St.,  Jackson  St.,  and  Union  St.  cars. 
At  Hunter''s  Point,  4^  miles  S.  E.  of  the  City  Hall,  is  a  Dry  Dock,  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 
The  drive  to  it  is  across  an  arm  of  the  bay,  and  affords  varied  and 
pleasant  views.  The  *  Mission  Dolores,  the  old  mission  of  San 
Francisco,  lies  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  city  (reached  by  Valencia  St. 
cars).  It  is  an  adobe  building  of  the  old  Spanish  style,  erected  in  IVZS, 
and  a  modern  church  has  been  built  beside  it.  Adjoining  it  is  the  ceme- 
tery, Avith  its  well-worn  paths  and  fantastic  monuments.  Alameda,  Sau- 
celito,  Berkeley,  and  Oakland,  across  the  Bay  (reached  by  ferry),  are 
beautiful  towns  with  fine  public  gardens. 

The  ship-yard  and  machine-shops  of  the  Union  Iron- Works  at  the 
Potrero  are  said  to  be  as  complete  as  any  in  the  world.  Besides  the 
cruiser  Charleston  and  the  battle-ship  Oregon,  other  vessels  of  the  new 
navy  were  built  there  for  the  U.  S.  Government. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions  has  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the 
visitor  can  readily  spend  more  time  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  attention. 

1.  Take  California  St.  or  ferries  and  Cliff  House  cable-cars,^  both 
of  which  lines  pass  through  the  finest  residence-quarters  of  the  city  to 
Central  Ave.,  where  transfer  is  made  to  a  rapid  water-line  to  the  Cliff 
House.  First  visit  the  beautiful  park  surrounding  the  residence  of 
Adolph  Sutro,  called  Sutro  Heights,  from  which  may  be  seen  a  long 
stretch  of  coast-line  and  the  far-famed  Golden  Gate.  Descending  by 
an  easy  slope  to  the  Cliff  House,  visitors  may  enjoy  from  a  shaded 
veranda  a  closer  view  of  the  Seal  Rocks,  just  below.  To  the  right  of 
the  Cliff  House  are  the  public  baths,  being  established  by  Adolph  Su- 
tro at  a  cost  of  $300,000.  Water  is  drawn  direct  from  the  ocean  into 
great  swimming-tanks,  which  are  to  be  inclosed  by  a  glass  roof.  Re- 
turning, take  water-line  from  the  beach  just  below  the  Cliff  House  and 
visit  the  conservatory,  containing  tropical  and  other  plants  in  profu- 
sion.   Close  by  is  the  Children's  Playground  and  the  Music  Area,  where, 

J  A  system  of  transfers  between  various  cable  and  horse-car  lines,  perfected 
in  189.3.  is  probably  the  most  extensive  in  the  world,  ?.nd  enables  passengers  to 
reach  almost  any  part  of  the  city  for  one  fare.  Cards  showing  all  transfer 
points,  and  fully  explaining  the  intricate  system,  may  be  obtained  at  the  leading 
hotel  offices. 


Boute  91.]  SAN   FRANCISCO.  409 

on  Thursday,  Saturday,  and  Sunday  afternoons,  concerts  are  given  by  a 
large  band  of  perforiiiers  selected  by  the  Park  Commissioners.  Thence 
the  city  is  reached  by  half  a  dozen  cable-lines.  The  only  cost  attached 
to  this  trip  is  for  car-fare.  The  rate  to  the  Club  House  is  lOc,  and 
elsewhere,  5c. 

2.  In  the  forenoon  visit  the  United  States  Branch  Mint,  in  Fifth 
St.,  near  Market,  from  10  a.m.  to  12  m.  In  addition  to  interesting 
machinery,  etc.,  there  is  here  a  very  large  and  valuable  collection  of 
antique  coins  and  relics.  In  the  afternoon  tourists  may  profitably  see 
Chinatown  by  daylight,  when  no  guide  is  necessary.  Along  Dupont, 
Sacramento,  Clay,  and  Washington  Sts.  are  many  stores  devoted  to 
Oriental  goods  and  curios,  as  well  as  workshops,  where  Chinese  jewel- 
ers and  artisans  are  engaged.  For  a  night  visit  to  the  Chinese  quarter 
guides  ai-e  necessary.  They  may  be  found  at  any  of  the  leading  hotels, 
and  for  a  moderate  fee  will  escort  visitors  to  the  Chinese  theatres  (ad- 
mission, 50c.),. to  the  joss-houses  and  gorgeously  equipped  restaurants, 
and  into  the  living  quarters  and  the  resorts  of  the  Chinese. 

3.  An  excursion  to  the  military  posts  on  and  about  the  bay  is  well 
worth  the  time.  The  Government  steamer  McDowell  runs  daily  from 
the  foot  of  Clay  St.  to  Alcatraz  and  Angel  Islands,  to  Fort  Mason,  and 
the  Presidio.  On  Alcatraz  Island  is  a  large  military  prison,  besides  a 
lighthouse  and  extensive  fortifications.  Here,  too,  is  the  central  firing 
station  of  an  elaborate  system  of  harbor  defense,  consisting  of  sub- 
marine torpedoes.  Returning,  visitors  may  leave  the  boat  at  the  Pre- 
sidio, a  military  station  where  the  commander  of  the  post  has  his  head- 
quarters. Here  may  be  seen  adobe  buildings  and  ancient  cannon,  rel- 
ics of  the  days  when  the  Presidio  was  the  military  station  of  the  Span- 
ish occupants.  Motor  and  cable  cars  afford  an  easy  return  to  the  city. 
There  is  no  fare  charged  on  the  McDowell,  and  permits  for  the  trip 
may  be  obtained  at  Army  Headquarters,  in  the  Phelan  Building,  at 
Market  St.  and  Grant  Ave. 

4.  Visit  the  City  Hall  at  McAllister  and  Larkin  Sts.,  where  are 
located  the  municipal  offices,  the  Superior  Court  in  twelve  depart- 
ments, the  Law  Library,  and  the  Free  Public  Library.  Thence  by  the 
Valencia  St.  cable-cars  to  Sixteenth  St.,  and  walk  two  blocks  to  the  old 
Mission  Dolores,  an  adobe  church  built  more  than  a  century  ago  by  the 
early  Fathers.  Thence  take  the  San  Francisco  and  San  Mateo  electric- 
cars  at  Guerrero  St.,  and  ride  through  a  populous  residence  district, 
known  as  the  Mission,  through  the  suburbs  across  the  county  line. 
Fi-om  this  road  on  unequaled  view  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  city 
and  its  outskirts  is  afforded.  Returning,  reach  Market  St.  by  the 
Fourth  St.  horse-cars,  and  visit  the  excellent  museum  of  the  Academy 
of  Sciences  in  Market  St.,  near  Fourth.  Near  by,  in  Fourth  St..  is 
the  handsome  building  of  the  California  Society  of  Pioneers,  the  rear 
portion  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  Pioneers  as  a  place  of  resort.  In 
it  are  many  interesting  mementoes  of  the  days  of  the  gold-seekers.  In 
the  same  building  is  the  State  Mining  Bureau,  a  comprehensive  mu- 
seum, containing  specimens  of  ores,  minerals,  and  objects  of  kindred 
interest. 


4:10  SAN   FRANCISCO.  [Route  91. 

5.  Take  either  broad  or  narrow  gauge  ferry  at  the  foot  of  Market 
St.,  connecting  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay  with  half-hourly  trains  to 
Ahimeda,  Oaiiland,  and  Berkeley,  where  reside  many  city  merchants 
and  professional  men.  Between  these  beautiful  suburbs  communica- 
tion is  eifected  by  horse-cars  and  electric  roads,  as  well  as  by  the  local 
trains.  At  Berkeley  is  located  the  University  of  California,  a  State- 
aided  institution,  with  more  than  900  students  on  its  registers.  It  is 
surrounded  by  spacious,  well-kept  grounds,  and  has  a  large  library  and 
museum  well  worth  inspecting.  The  round-trip  rate  to  any  of  the  three 
points  named  is  25c.,  with  an  additional  charge  of  10c.  for  transporta- 
tion on  local  trains  between  any  two  of  the  cities  not  on  the  direct  route. 
Street-car  fares  are  the  same  as  in  San  Francisco. 

6.  Take  Southern  Pacific  train  at  Third  and  Townsend  Sts.  and  ride 
.S2  miles  south  to  Menlo  Park,  where  carriages  may  be  procured  for  a 
drive  through  a  beautiful  country,  about  which  are  the  elegant  country 
homes  of  wealthy  San  Franciscans,  and  to  the  Leland-  Stanford,  Jr., 
University  at  Palo  Alto.  Adjacent  is  Senator  Stanford's  country  resi- 
dence and  his  stud-farm,  justly  celebrated  for  its  fine  horses.  The  fare 
for  the  round  trip  is  Sl.'Z.o. 

7.  Take  Central  Pacific  train,  connecting  with  broad-gauge  ferry 
from  foot  of  Market  St.,  to  Vallejo  Junction,  and  by  ferry  to  Yallejo 
and  the  Mare  Island  Navy- Yard.  A  day  may  be  pleasantly  spent  in 
examining  the  dry  docks,  extensive  workshops,  and  features  of  interest 
of  the  Navy-Yard.  Cruisers  home  from  foreign  stations  on  the  Pacific 
are  anchored  here  for  repairs  and  outfitting  ;  and  here  may  be  seen  the 
old  and  historic  vessel,  the  Independence,  now  used  as  a  receiving-ship. 
The  railroad  fare  each  wav  is  90c. 


From  San  Francisco  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Coast  S.  S.  Co. 
leave  regularly  from  Broadway,  Wharf  No.  2,  stopping  at  Santa  Cruz^ 
Monterey^  San  Simeon^  Cayucos,  and  Port  Harford.  The  latter,  some- 
times called  Port  San  Luis  Obispo,  is  the  most  important  stop.  It  is  the 
port  for  the  different  sections  of  San  Luis  Obispo  County,  including 
the  principal  city  of  the  county.  Avila  is  a  small  seaside  place  on  the 
shores  of  San  Luis  Bay.  It  is  much  frequented  in  summer  on  account 
of  the  excellent  facilities  it  affords  for  sea-bathing.  Near  here,  and 
within  easy  reach  of  the  railroad,  are  located  the  celebrated  Avila  Hot 
Sulphur  Springs,  where  there  is  a  comfortable  hotel,  neat  bath- 
house, swimming-bath,  beautiful  shady  nooks  for  camping,  and  a  fine 
stream  of  fresh  water,  and  on  the  whole  it  is  one  of  the  most  charm- 
ing and  picturesque  spots  in  the  country.  The  town  of  Arroyo  Grande 
is  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  creek  of  that  name,  about  12  miles 
south  of  San  Luis  Obispo.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  an  exceedingly  fertile 
district.  San  Miguel  is  named  after  the  old  mission,  situated  in  the 
town.  About  9  miles  south  of  San  Miguel  is  the  famous  Paso  Ro- 
bles  Springs,  around  which  is  growing  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  of 
the  county.  Continuing  south  for  a  distance  of  10  miles,  one  comes  to 
the  present  terminus  of  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.,  Santa  Marga- 


Route  92.]  THE   TOSEI^nTE    VALLEY.  411 

rita,  already  a  bustlir.g  and  lively  village.  The  city  of  San  Luis 
Obispo  is  situated  near  the  center  of  the  coast  section  of  the  country. 
It  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  old  mission,  which  was  called  San  Luis 
Obispo  de  Toloso.  It  is  partially  surrounded  by  hills  of  singular  and 
diversified  beauty  ;  the  commercial  outlook  for  this  city  is  good.  \^  ith 
railroad  connections  both  north  and  south,  the  port  of  the  best  har- 
bor of  the  county,  surrounded  by  a  fertile  and  well-tilled  agricultural 
region,  the  distributing  point  for  many  smaller  towns,  the  center  of  a 
vast  farming  country,  it  is  sure  to  become  a  flourishing  city. 

Stops  are  also  made  at  Gaviota^  Santa  Barbara^  San  Buenaventura^ 
Hueneme,  San  Pedro,  and  San  Diego.  Also,  a  steamer  sails  on  the  1st 
of  each  month  for  Mexico,  landing  at  Misenada^  Magdalena  Bay^  San 
Jose  del  Cabo.  Mazatkm.,  La  Paz^  and  Gfuaymas. 

Going  north,  the  steamers  of  the  San  Francisco  and  Mendocino  route 
stop  at  Point  Arena.,  Cuffeys  Cove,  Mendocino  City.,  and  Fort  Bragg. 
Also,  a  steamer  sails  from  Broadway,  Wharf  No.  1,  San  Francisco,  every 
Wednesday  at  9  a.  m.,  for  Eureka.,  Areata.,  and  FiekPs  Landing  (Humboldt 
Bay),  reaching  Eureka  every  Thursday  at  high  tide.  Returning,  it  leaves 
Eureka  on  Saturday  at  high  tide  and  reaches  San  Francisco  every  Sun- 
day in  the  forenoon.  Eureka,  the  county-seat  of  Humboldt,  is  situated 
on  the  east  side  of  Humboldt  Bay,  occupying  a  pleasant  site  overlooks 
ing  the  waters  of  the  bay.  The  city  is  one  of  the  most  tastefully  laid 
out  on  the  coast.  Many  handsome  business  blocks  and  public  build- 
ings adorn  the  thoroughfares.  The  streets  are  rectangular  and  kept  in 
good  condition,  while  the  facilities  for  numerous  vessels  along  the 
wharves  are  quite  adequate.  Eureka  is  lighted  with  gas  and  electricity, 
and  possesses  many  of  the  useful  institutions  of  a  metropolis. 

The  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Co.  also  runs,  in  connection  with  the 
Union  Pacific  system,  regular  steamers  to  Portland,  Ore.,  which  stop  at 
Astoria,  and  then  continue  north  to  Puget  Sound,  with  Tacoma  as  a 
terminus.  Also,  there  is  a  direct  line  leaving  San  Francisco  every  five 
days  for  Puget  Sound,  connecting  at  Tacoma  with  the  Northern  Pacific 
P.  R.,  and  at  Vancouver  with  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway. 

92.  The  Yosemite  Valley. 

There  are  two  good  routes  to  the  valley:  1.  By  the  Southei-n  Pacific 
R.  R.  (Visalia  Div.)  to  Lathrop  (Route  90) ;  then  to  Berenda ;  thence  by 
branch-road  to  Raymond  (199  miles  from  San  Francisco);  and  thence  by 
Yosemite  Stage  &  Turnpike  Co.,  a  stage  route  of  35  miles,  to  Wau^ona 
Hotel.  Passengers  leaving  San  Francisco  at  4  p.  m.,  reach  Wawona 
next  day  at  6  p.  m.  The  Big  Trees  are  visited  on  the  return  trip, 
and  lunch  is  taken  in  the  afternoon  at  Wawona,  near  the  Grove. 
The  *  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big-  Trees  is  only  6  miles  from 
Wawona  Hotel.  The  Mariposa  Grove  is  part  of  a  grant  made  by 
Congress  to  be  set  apart  for  "public  use,  resort,  and  recreation"  for- 
ever. The  area  covered  by  the  grant  is  two  miles  square,  and  em- 
braces tw^o  distinct  groves  which  are  about  ^  mile  apart.  The  Upper 
Grove  contains  365  trees,  of  which  154  are  over  15  ft.  in  diameter,  and 


412  THE   YOSEMITE   VALLEY.  [Route  92. 

many  over  300  ft.  in  height.  The  average  height  of  the  Mariposa  trees 
is  less  than  that  of  th'e  Calaveras  (see  Route  90),  the  highest  of  the 
former  (272  ft.)  being  53  ft.  less  than  the  tallest  of  the  latter;  but 
their  average  size  is  greater.  The  largest  tree  in  the  grove  is  the 
Grizzly  Giant  (Lower  Grove),  which  is  still  94  ft.  in  circumference 
and  31  in  diameter,  though  much  decreased  in  size  by  burning.  The 
first  branch  is  nearly  200  ft.  from  the  ground,  and  is  6  ft.  in  diam- 
eter. The  remains  of  a  prostrate  tree,  now  nearly  consumed  by  fire, 
indicate  that  it  must  have  reached  a  diameter  of  about  40  ft.  and  a 
height  of  400.  The  trunk  is  hollow,  and  will  admit  of  the  passage  of 
three  horsemen  riding  abreast.  There  are  about  125  trees  over  40  ft. 
in  circumference.  The  Fresno  Grove  is  also  directly  on  the  line  of 
this  route,  and  contains  over  800  trees  spread  over  an  area  2^  miles 
long  and  1  to  2  broad.  The  largest  is  95  ft.  in  circumference  at  3  ft. 
from  the  ground. 

2.  The  other  route  is  from  Stockton  on  the  S.  P.  R.  R.  (see  Route 
90)  via  Stockton  &  Copperopolis  Branch  to  Milton  (133  miles  from  San 
Francisco),  and  thence  by  stage.  There  are  14*7  miles  of  staging  on  this 
route,  and  it  is  only  taken  by  those  who  wish  to  visit  the  Calaveras 
Grove  of  Big  Trees  (see  Route  90). 

The  Yosemite  Valley  was  known  to  many  miners  in  the  summer  of 
1849,  who  explored  the  head-waters  of  all  the  rivers  in  search  of  gold. 
In  1851  Captain  Bowling  entered  the  valley,  and  took  the  Indians  to 
the  Fresno  River,  where  a  treaty  was  made. 

Yosemite  Valley. 

Hotels,  etc.— There  are  two  hotels  in  the  valley— the  Stoneman  Eotise  and 
Yosemite  Falls.  The  sleeping  accommodations  are  good,  and  the  tables  fairly 
provided,  considering  the  distance  of  the  locality  from  the  ordinary  markets. 
Guides,  including  their  horses,  will  usually  cost  $4  a  day. 

The  Yosemite  Valley  is  situated  on  the  Merced  River,  in  the  S.  por- 
tion of  the  county  of  Mariposa,  California,  140  miles  a  little  S.  of  E. 
from  San  Francisco,  but  over  260  miles  from  that  city  by  any  of  the 
usually-traveled  routes.  It  is  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
midway  between  its  E.  and  W.  base,  and  nearly  in  the  center  of  the 
State,  measuring  N.  and  S.  The  valley  is  a  nearly  level  area,  4,000  ft. 
above  the  sea,  about  9  miles  in  length,  and  from  f  to  1^  mile  in 
width,  and  almost  a  mile  in  depth  below  the  level  of  the  adjacent 
region,  and  inclosed  in  granite  walls  rising  with  almost  unbroken  and 
perpendicular  faces  to  the  height  of  from  3,000  to  6,000  ft.  From 
the  brow  of  the  precipices  in  sev^eral  places  spring  streams  of  water 
which,  in  seasons  of  rains  and  melted  snow,  form  cataracts  of  a  beauty 
and  magnificence  surpassing  an}1:hing  kno^m  in  mountain  scenery. 
"  The  principal  features  of  the  Yosemite,"  says  Prof.  Josiah  D.  Whit- 
ney, in  his  excellent  "  Yosemite  Guide-Book,"  "  and  those  by  which  it  is 
distinguished  from  all  other  known  v^alleys,  are:  1.  The  near  approach 
to  verticality  of  its  walls  ;  2.  Their  great  height,  not  only  absolutely,  but 
as  compared  with  the  width  of  the  valley  itself ;  and,  3.  The  very  small 
amount  of  debris  at  the  base  of  these  gigantic  cliffs.     These  are  the 


414  THE   YOSEMITE   VALLEY.  [Route  92. 

great  characteristics  of  the  Yosemite  region,  throughout  its  whole  length ; 
but,  besides  these,  there  are  many  other  striking  peculiarities  and  feat- 
ures, both  of  sublimity  and  beauty,  which  can  hardly  be  surpassed,  if 
equaled,  by  those  of  any  mountain  valleys  in  the  world.  Either  the 
domes  or  the  waterfalls  of  the  Yosemite,  or  any  single  one  of  them  even, 
would  be  sufficient,  in  any  European  country,  to  attract  travelers  from 
far  and  wide  in  all  directions.  Waterfalls  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Yosemite, 
surpassing  in  beauty  many  of  the  best  known  and  most  visited  in  Eu- 
i-ope,  are  actually  left  entirely  unnoticed  by  travelers,  because  there  are 
so  many  other  objects  of  interest  to  be  visited  that  it  is  impossible  to 
find  time  for  them  all."  The  valley  is  almost  one  vast  flower-garden. 
Plants,  shrubs,  and  flowers  of  every  hue  cover  the  ground  like  a  carpet ; 
the  eye  is  dazzled  by  the  brilKancy  of  the  color,  and  the  air  is  heavy 
with  the  fragrance  of  a  million  blossoms.  Trees  of  several  centuries' 
growth  raise  their  tall  heads  heavenward,  yet,  beside  and  in  comparison 
with  the  vast  perpendicular  clefts  of  rocks,  they  look  hke  daisies  beside  a 
tall  pine.  On  every  side  are  seen  the  beautiful  and  many-colored  man- 
zanita  and  madrone,  and  trees  of  such  shape  and  variety  as  are  never 
seen  in  the  Atlantic  States.  The  Yosemite  was  discovered  in  the  spring 
of  1851  by  a  party  under  the  command  of  Captain  Boling,  in  pursuit  of 
a  band  of  predatory  Indians,  who  made  it  their  stronghold,  considering 
it  inaccessible  to  the  whites.  By  an  act  of  Congress  passed  in  1864,  the 
Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees  were  granted  to 
the  State  of  California  upon  the  express  condition  that  they  shall  be 
kept  "for  public  use,  resort,  and  recreation,"  and  shall  be  "inalienable 
for  all  time."  The  Indian  residents  of  the  valley  had  a  name  for  each 
of  the  prominent  cliffs  and  waterfalls,  but  these  are  difficult  of  pronun- 
ciation, and  have  all  been  discarded  except  the  name  of  the  valley  itself 
(which  means  "  Large  Grizzly  Bear  "). 

The  most  striking  feature  of  the  valley  scenery  is  *E1  Capitan. 
Although  not  so  high  by  several  thousand  feet  as  some  of  its  giant 
neighbors,  yet  its  isolation,  its  breadth,  its  perpendicular  sides,  and  its 
prominence  as  it  projects  like  a  great  rock  promontory  into  the  valley, 
make  it,  as  its  name  indicates,  the  Great  Chief  of  the  Valley.  It  is 
3,300  ft.  high,  and  the  sides  or  walls  of  the  mass  are  bare,  smooth,  and 
entirely  destitute  of  vegetation.  "  It  is  doubtful,"  says  Prof.  Whitney, 
"  if  anywhere  in  the  world  there  is  presented  so  squarely-cut,  so  lofty, 
and  so  imposing  a  face  of  rock."  On  the  opposite  side,  on  the  right  of 
the  view,  is  *  Bridal- Veil  Fall,  where  the  creek  of  the  same  name 
leaps  over  a  cliff  900  ft.  high  into  the  valley  below.  The  water,  long 
ere  it  reaches  its  rocky  bed,  is  converted  into  mist,  and  descends  in  a 
white  sheet  of  spray.  The  Virgin's  Tears  Creek^  on  the  other  side  of 
the  valley,  directly  opposite  the  Bridal-Veil,  makes  a  fine  fall  over  1,000 
ft.  high,  inclosed  in  a  deep  recess  of  the  rock  near  the  lower  corner  of 
El  Capitan.  This  is  a  beautiful  fall  while  it  lasts,  but  the  stream  which 
produces  it  dries  up  earl)^  in  the  season.  On  the  same  side  as  the 
Bridal-Veil,  and  a  little  above  it,  is  Cathedral  Rock^  a  massively  sculpt- 
ured pile  of  granite,  2,660  ft.  high,  with  nearly  vertical  sides,  bare  of 
vegetation.     Just  beyond  are  T/ie  Spires^  two  graceful  columns  of  gran- 


Yosemite  Views. 


Route  92.']  THE   TOSEMITE    VALLEY.  415 

ite  standing  out  from,  but  connected  at  the  base  with,  the  walls  of  the 
valley.  From  one  point  of  view  these  spires  appear  symmetrical  and  of 
equal  height,  and  rise  above  the  edge  of  the  cliff  exactly  like  the  towers 
of  a  Gothic  cathedral.  Farther  up  the  valley,  on  the  opposite  side,  is 
the  triple  group  of  rocks  known  as  the  Three  Brothers.  The  peculiar 
outline  of  these  rocks,  as  seen  from  below,  resembling  three  frogs  sitting 
with  their  heads  turned  in  one  direction,  is  supposed  to  have  suggested 
the  Indian  name  Pompompasus,  which  means  "  Leaping-Frog  Rocks." 
The  highest  of  the  peaks  is  3,830  ft.  high,  and  from  its  summit  there  is 
a  superb  yiew  of  the  valley  and  its  surroundings.  Nearly  opposite  the 
Three  Brothers  is  a  point  of  rocks  projecting  into  the  valley,  the  termi- 
nation of  which  is  a  slender  obelisk  of  granite,  which,  from  its  peculiar 
position,  or  from  its  resemblance  to  a  gigantic  watch-tovver,  is  called 

*  Sentinel  Rock  (3,043  ft.  high).  This  is  one  of  the  grandest  masses 
of  x'ock  in  the  Yosemite.  Directly  across  the  valley  are  the  *  Yosemite 
Falls,  which  are  justly  regarded  as  the  most  wonderful  feature  of  the 
Yosemite  scenery.  The  fall  has  a  total  height  of  2,600  ft.,  w^hich,  how- 
ever, is  not  all  perpendicular.  There  is  first  a  vertical  leap  of  1,500  ft., 
then  a  series  of  cascades  down  a  descent  equal  to  626  ft.  perpendicular, 
and  then  a  final  plunge  of  400  ft.  to  the  rocks  at  the  base  of  the  preci- 
pice. The  rumble  and  roar  of  the  falls  are  heard  at  all  times,  but  in 
the  quiet  of  the  evening  they  are  so  great  that  it  seems  as  if  the  very 
earth  were  shaking.  No  falls  in  the  known  world  can  be  compared  with 
these  in  height  and  romantic  grandeur.  The  renowned  Staubbach  of 
Switzerland  is  greatly  inferior,  both  in  height  and  volume.  The  best 
time  to  see  the  falls  is  in  May,  June,  and  July,  as  by  August  or  Septem- 
ber both  the  Yosemite  and  Bridal- Veil  have  shrunk  almost  to  nothing, 
but  they  can  be  visited  up  to  December.  The  cliff  a  little  to  the  east  of 
the  Yosemite  Fall  rises  in  a  bold  peak  to  the  height  of  3,030  ft.  above 
the  valley,  and  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  entire  region.  Its  sum- 
mit is  easily  reached  by  a  trail  leading  up  Indian  Canon. 

About  2  miles  above  the  Yosemite  Falls  the  main  valley  ends,  and 
branches  out  in  three  distinct  but  much  narrower  canons.  Through  the 
middle  one  of  these  the  Merced  River  comes  down ;  in  the  left-hand  or 
N.  W.  one  the  Tenaya  Fork  of  the  Merced  flows  in ;  and  in  the  I'ight- 
hand  or  S.  W.  one,  the  South  Fork  or  lllilouette.  At  the  angle  where 
the  Yosemite  branches  is  the  rounded  columnar  mass  called  Washington 
Column.,  and  immediately  to  the  left  of  it  the  immense  arched  cavity 
known  as  the  Royal  Arches.  Above  these  the  symmetrical  form  of  the 
Xorth  Dome  looms  up  to  the  height  of  3,568  ftl  The  *  Half  Dome, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tenaya  Canon,  is  the  loftiest  and  most  impos- 
ing mountain  of  those  considered  as  part  of  the  Yosemite.  It  is  a  crest 
of  granite,  rising  to  the  height  of  4,Y37  ft.  above  the  valley,  and  was  long 
considered  perfectly  inaccessible,  but  in  1879  certain  improvements  were 
made  by  which  tourists  were  enabled  and  will  in  future  be  enabled  to 
reach  this  commanding  point.  Lying  in  perfect  quiet  and  seclusion  at 
the  foot  of  and  between  the  North  and  Half  Domes  is  the  exquisite  little 

*  Mirror  iLake,  an  expansion  of  the  Tenaya  Fork.  It  is  frequently 
yisited  (and  best  early  in  the  morning)  for  the  purpose  of  getting  the  re- 


416  CALIFORJSriA   RESORTS.  [Boiite  93. 

flection  upon  its  rairror-like  surface  of  an  overhanging  mass  of  rock  to 
which  the  name  of  3ft.  WatkiJis  has  been  given.  In  the  middle. canon 
the  Merced  River  comes  down  from  the  plateau  above  in  a  series  of  noble 
cascades  and  two  grand  cataracts,  which  are  among  the  chief  attractions 
of  the  Yosemite.  The  first  fall  reached  in  ascending  the  caiion  is  the 
Vernal  Fall,  which  has  a  vertical  height  of  about  400  ft.  The  ledge 
over  which  the  fall  descends  is  surmounted  by  a  steep  but  not  difficult 
path,  and  the  view  down  the  canon  from  the  summit  is  extremelv  fine. 
"  From  the  Vernal  Fall  up-stream,"  to  quote  Prof.  Whitney  again,  "  for 
the  distance  of  about  a  mile,  the  river  may  be  followed,  and  it  presents 
a  succession  of  cascades  and  rapids  of  great  beauty.  As  we  approach 
the  Nevada  Fall,  the  last  great  one  of  the  Merced,  we  have  at  every  step 
something  new  and  impressive.  On  the  left  hand,  or  N.  side  of  the 
river,  is  the  Cap  of  Liberty,  a  stupendous  mass  of  rock,  isolated  and 
nearly  perpendicular  on  all  sides,  rising  perhaps  2,000  ft.  above  its  base, 
and  little  inferior  to  the  Half  Dome  in  grandeur.  It  has  been  frequently 
climbed,  and  without  difficulty,  although  appearing  so  inaccessible  from 
the  canon  of  the  Merced.  The  *  Nevada  Fall  is  in  every  respect  one 
of  the  grandest  waterfalls  in  the  world,  whether  we  consider  its  vertical 
height,  the  purity  and  volume  of  the  river  which  forms  it,  or  the  stupen- 
dous scenery  by  which  it  is  environed.  The  fall  is  not  quite  perpendicular, 
as  there  is  near  the  summit  a  ledge  of  rock  which  receives  a  portion  of 
the  water  and  throws  it  off  with  a  peculiar  twist,  adding  considerably  to 
the  general  picturesque  effect."  The  height  of  the  fall  is  about  600  ft. 
In  the  canon  of  the  South  Fork,  or  Illilouette,  there  is  a  fine  fall  esti- 
mated at  600  ft.  high.  It  is  visible  from  a  point  on  the  trail  from  the 
hotel  to  Mirror  Lake,  but  is  seldom  visited  by  travelers,  as  the  canon  is 
rough  and  difficult  to  climb. 

Several  small  encampments  of  Digger  Indians  are  generally  to  be 
found  in  the  valley ;  and,  if  not  delighted,  the  visitor  will  certainly  be 
amused  by  the  primitive  mode  of  living  of  these  "  children  of  Nature." 
Professor  Whitney  warmly  recommends  tourists  visiting  the  Yosemite 
to  make  an  excursion  round  the  valley  on  the  outside.  Such  an  excur- 
sion can  be  made  mostly  on  beaten  trails  without  the  slightest  difficulty 
or  danger,  will  occupy  but  a  few  days,  and  will  afford  as  grand  pano- 
ramic views  of  mountain  and  valley  as  can  be  found  in  Switzerland 
itself.  Those  who  can  not  make  this  tour  should  at  least  make  excur- 
sions to  Inspiration  Point.,  on  the  Mariposa  trail,  and  to  Glacier  Point 
{Glacier  Point  Hotel;  3-|  miles),  on  the  McCauley  trail.  The  view  from 
either  is  indescribably  grand. 

93.  California  Resorts. 

To  the  North.,  San  Francisco  to  Cazadero. 
From  the  foot  of  Market  Street  the  steamers  of  the  North  Pacific 
Coast  R.  R.  Co.  carry  their  passengers  along  the  city  front  and  within 
a  shoit  distance  of  the  Military  Reservations  (Black  Point  and  the  Pre- 
sidio) ;  thence  toward  Alcatraz  and  Angel  Islands,  with  a  view  of  the 
Golden  Gate  in  the  distance  to  Saucelito,  a  popular  bay-side  resort , 


Route  93.]  CALIFORNIA   EESOETS.  417 

famous  for  boating,  bathing,  and  fishing,  with  pleasant  country  hotels 
and  attractive  residences.  It  is  thirty  minutes'  ride  on  the  steamers. 
Thence  the  train  may  be  taken  for  Mill  Valley,  which  is  5  miles 
farther.  This  beautiful  valley  and  its  surroundings  have  been  taste- 
fully laid  out  into  avenues  and  streets  by  experienced  engineers.  An- 
other train  may  be  taken  for  Larkspur,  which  has  one  of  the  best- 
appointed  hotels  in  the  county,  thence  to  San  Anselmo  and  Sunny- 
side.  At  the  latter  place  the  Presbyterians  have  built  a  brown-stone 
seminary.  Still  another  train  may  be  taken  for  San  Rafael,  a  re- 
markably pretty  town  near  the  W.  shore  of  San  Pablo  Bay,  built  on 
the  *ite  of  the  old  Jesuit  mission  of  San  Rafael.  It  is  sheltered  on 
the  X.  and  W.  by  mountains,  and  is  something  of  a  sanitarium  for  those 
who  find  the  ocean-winds  and  fogs  that  prevail  at  San  Francisco  too 
trying.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Rafael  is  extremely  pictur- 
esque, and  there  are  many  charming  drives,  but  the  chief  attraction  is 
the  ascent  of  *Mt.  Tamalpais  (12  miles  distant).  The  W.  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain  is  2,606  ft.  high,  and  the  view  from  it  embraces 
the  cities  of  San  Francisco  and  Oakland,  numerous  towns  and  vil- 
lages, the  bay  and  the  Golden  Gate,  and  the  illimitable  ocean  beyond. 
Returning  to  San  Anselmo,  or  the  Junction,  as  it  is  familiarly  called, 
the  traveler  can  reach  Fairfax,  l^  miles  north,  which  is  famed  for 
its  beauties  and  attractions,  and  was  long  the  recreation-grounds  for 
Sunday-schools  when  out  for  their  annual  excursions.  Thence  climbing 
over  White's  Hill  you  reach  San  Geronimo  Yalley,  and  wind  along  the 
Lagunitas  Creek  until  you  arrive  at  Camp  Taylor,  where  there  is  a 
good  hotel,  surrounded  with  little  cottages  and  tents,  affording  every 
comfort  to  those  who  wish  to  pass  a  few  months  in  the  country  with 
their  families,  as  it  is  only  two  hours'  ride  from  the  city,  and  trains 
leave  three  times  a  day.  Thence  3  miles  farther  is  Tocaloma,  the 
entrance  to  Bear  Yalley.  The  drive  through  this  valley  is  considered 
very  fine,  as  immediately  after  leaving  the  station  the  traveler  is  carried 
for  miles  through  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  wild  flowers  and  evergreens, 
and  upon  emerging  from  this  enchanted  bower  a  grand  view  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean  bursts  upon  him  and  is  momentarily  enjoyed,  until  atten- 
tion is  drawn  to  the  beach,  strewn  with  all  kinds  of  shells  thrown  there 
by  the  waves.  A  good  hotel  has  just  been  finislied  here,  with  all  the 
modern  improvements.  Thence  5  miles  farther  is  Point  Reyes,  38 
miles  from  San  Francisco.  From  this  station  the  members  of  the 
Country  Club  drive  to  their  private  "  shootmg-boxes,"  or  the  Club 
House,  which  latter  is  a  building  150  feet  long,  and  fitted  up  with  all 
modern  ideas  of  the  requirements  of  true  sportsmen.  The  club  has 
leased  Y6,000  acres  of  land,  and  has  determined  to  make  this  the  largest 
and  best  private  preserve  in  the  world.  They  are  filling  the  various 
lakes  with  black  bass,  speckled  trout,  etc.,  and  the  woods  with  Japanese 
plieasants,  Oregon  geese,  and  European  song-birds,  so  that  before  long 
this  will  be  one  of  the  features  of  the  State.  Thence  4  miles  farther  is 
Millerton,  the  point  from  which  the  Presbyterians  intend  to  build  a 
bridge  of  about  4,000  feet  across  Tomales  Bay  to  Inverness,  the  site 
of  their  new  college.  This  is  a  lovely,  sheltered  place,  but  sufficiently 
27 


418  CALIFOHlSriA   EESOETS.  [Boute  93. 

elevated  to  command  a  fine  view  of  the  beach  running  along  the  shores 
of  Tomales  Bay.  For  nearly  2  miles  the  waters  of  this  bay  on  that  side 
are  quite  warm,  and  form  a  charming  and  safe  bathing-place.  Thence 
for  nearly  20  miles  the  train  carries  the  traveler  through  grain  and 
potato  fields  to  Howards,  70  miles  from  San  Francisco  and  600  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Here  one  first  scents  the  aroma  emitted  by 
the  "Sequoia  "  or  redwood-trees,  and  soon  feels  the  increased  ease  with 
which  he  can  breathe,  and  is  anxious  for  the  train  to  proceed  as  quickly 
as  possible  and  carry  him  through  the  remaining  17  miles  of  forest  that 
he  has  to  travel  before  he  can  reach  Cazadero,  which  is  situated  on 
the  banks  of  Austin  Creek  and  a  few  miles  by  land  from  the  Gualala 
River,  in  both  waters  of  which  splendid  fishing  is  to  be  had ;  it  is  also 
surrounded  by  the  giant  redwoods,  in  whose  forests  all  kinds  of  game 
(including  an  occasional  bear)  are  to  be  found.  This  is  the  paradise  of 
the  camper-out,  the  sportsman,  the  tired  business  man,  or  the  exhausted 
invalid ;  as  pleasure  and  sport  can  be  found  for  the  one,  or  rest  and  quiet 
for  the  other,  and  good  food  and  accommodation  in  the  hotel  [Cazadero) 
and  its  cottages  for  all. 

'To  the  South,  San  Francisco  to  San  L^ds  Ohispo. 
Another  favorite  excursion  is  to  Pescadero  [Stvanton  House), 
which  is  reached  by  stage  from  San  Mateo  or  Redwood  City  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  The  stage-ride  of  30  miles  over  the  Contra 
Costa  Range  affords  some  noble  views.  Pescadero  is  a  thriving  town, 
beautifully  situated  in  a  remarkably  productive  valley,  on  both  sides 
of  Pescadero  Creek,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Butano,  about  a  mile 
from  the  sea-shore.  The  San  Francisco  Water  Company  takes  its  sup- 
ply from  the  head  of  the  creek.  Near  the  town  is  the  famous  Pehhle 
Beach,  where  agates,  opals,  jaspers,  and  caruelians,  of  almost  every 
conceivable  variety  of  color,  are  found  in  great  abundance,  with  a 
natural  polish  imparted  by  the  action  of  the  waves. — Tri-weekly  stages 
run  along  the  coast  from  Pescadero  to  Santa  Cruz  {Facijic  Ocean 
House,  Pope  House,  Sea  Beach  Hotel),  one  of  the  principal  watering- 
places  of  California.  (Santa  Cruz  is  also  reached  by  narrow-gauge 
railroad  from  San  Francisco,  or  via  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  Pajaro, 
and  thence  by  the  South  Pacific  Coast  R.  R.)  The  Mission,  de  la  Santa 
Cruz  is  situated  here.  Santa  Cruz  is  attractively  situated  on  the  N. 
side  of  Monterey  Bay,  and  near  by  are  Aptos  and  Soquel,  popular  sea- 
side resorts.  Bathing,  fishing,  and  hunting  may  be  enjoyed  here,  and 
in  the  vicinity  there  are  charming  drives.  A  few  miles  beyond  Santa 
Cruz  is  a  grove  of  mammoth  trees  which  go  far  to  rival  those  of  the 
Mariposa  Grove. — Opposite  Santa  Cruz,  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  bay, 
is  the  historic  city  of  Monterey  (reached  from  San  Francisco  by  steam- 
er, or  by  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.).  Until  184'7  this  town  was  the  seat  of 
government  and  principal  port  on  the  California  coast ;  but  since  the  rise 
of  San  Francisco  its  commerce  and  business  have  dwindled  away,  and  it 
is  now  one  of  the  quietest  places  in  the  State.  It  has  attracted  much 
attention  as  a  health-resort.  Its  climate  is  warm  in  winter,  cool  in 
summer,  and  dry  all  the  year  round.     The  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  Co. 


Route  93.]  CALIFOENIA    RESORTS.  419 

have  pushed  improvemeuts  with  the  design  of  making  Monterey  a  great 
health  and  pleasure  resort,  and  have  built  the  Hotel  del  Monte  in  a 
grove  of  oaks  and  pine-trees.  Among  the  points  of  interest  are  the 
Carmel  Mission^  established  by  Father  Junipero  Serr^^and  the  cele- 
brated 18-mile  drive  around  the  shore  to  Cypress  Point.  A  monument  to 
Father  Junipero  Serra,  in  granite,  has  been  erected  on  a  hill  near  where 
the  padre  first  landed.  They  have  also  built  a  narrow-gauge  road  (3 
miles)  to  Pacific  Grove^  a  pleasant  resort  under  the  pines  on  the  shore 
of  the  bay.  It  has  several  hundred  cottages,  a  fine  hotel,  El  Carmelo^ 
and  is  the  place  of  the  annual  summer  meetings  of  the  Chautauquan 
Assemblies  and  religious  and  literary  associations. 

Still  another  favorite  excursion  from  San  Francisco  is  to  Calistoga 
and  the  Geysers,  by  way  of  the  Western  Div.  of  the  California  Pacific 
R.  R.  Pfapa  City  (46  miles  from  San  Francisco)  is  a  thrifty  place  of 
4,38'7  inhabitants,  surrounded  by  a  highly  productive  agricultural  region, 
rich  in  fruits  of  all  kinds,  and  in  vast  fields  of  grain  that  stretch  away 
in  every  direction.  There  are  many  beautiful  drives  in  the  vicinity,  one 
of  the  most  attractive  of  which  is  that  to  Santa  Rosa,  taking  in  the  fa- 
mous wine-cellars  of  Sonoma.  The  highly  esteemed  Napa  Soda  Springs 
are  situated  in  the  foot-hills  about  6  miles  N.  E.  of  the  town.  Calistoga 
{Ame7'ican  Hotel.,  Magnolia  Hotel).,  situated  73  miles  from  San  Francisco 
by  the  California  Pacific  R.  R.,  is  a  pretty  town,  lying  in  a  valley  a  mile 
in  width,  and  encircled  by  forest-clad  hills  and  mountains.  It  is  supplied 
with  pure  water  from  a  reservoir  on  the  adjacent  mountain-side,  and  thei-e 
are  several  bath-houses,  supplied  with  water  from  neighboring  springs. 
The  public  Avarm  swimming-bath,  40  ft.  square,  is  one  of  the  features  of 
the  place.  The  scenery  is  exceedingly  picturesque,  the  well-cultivated 
fields,  green  lawns,  sunny  slopes,  and  shaded  villas  contrasting  pleasantly 
with  the  wild  grandeur  of  the  rugged  mountains.  There  are  numerous 
mineral  springs  in  the  vicinity,  the  most  noted  of  which  are  HarhiiCs 
(20  miles  N.  of  Calistoga),  and  the  White  Stdpjlvur  Springs^  situated  in 
a  deep  and  picturesque  gorge  of  the  mountains,  which  rise  on  either 
side  to  a  height  of  about  1,000  ft.  About  5  miles  S.  E.  of  Calistoga  is 
the  *  Petrified.  Forest,  which  is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  great 
natural  wonders  of  California.  Portions  of  nearly  100  distinct  trees,  of 
great  size,  scattered  over  a  tract  3  or  4  miles  in  extent,  have  been 
found,  the  largest  being  11  ft.  in  diameter  at  the  base  and  60  ft.  long. 
They  are  supposed  to  have  been  silicified  by  an  eruption  of  the  neigh- 
boring Mount  St.  Helena,  which  discharged  hot  alkaline  waters  con- 
taining silica  in  solution.  Daily  stages  run  from  Calistoga  to  the 
famous  *  Geyser  Springs,  which  are  situated  in  Sonoma  County, 
in  a  lateral  gorge  of  the  Napa  Valley,  called  the  "  Devil's  Cafion," 
near  the  Pluton  River.  The  approaches  to  the  springs  are  very 
impressive,  the  scenery  being  finer,  according  to  Bayard  Taylor,  than 
anything  in  the  Lower  Alps.  The  narrow  Geyser  ravine,  which  is 
always  filled  with  vapor,  is  shut  in  by  steep  hills,  the  sides  of  which, 
marked  with  evidences  of  volcanic  action,  are  smoking  with  heat  and 
bare  of  vegetation.  A  multitude  of  springs  gush  out  at  the  base  of 
these  rocks.     Hot  and  cold  springs,  boiling  springs,  and  quiet  springs 


420  CALIFORNIA  RESORTS.  [Route  93. 

lie  within  a  few  feet  of  each  other.  They  differ  also  in  color,  smell, 
and  taste.  Soroe  are  clear  and  transparent,  others  white,  yellow,  or  red 
with  ochre,  while  still  others  are  of  an  inky  blackness.  Some  are 
sulphurous  and  fetid  in  odor,  and  some  are  charged  with  alum  and  salt. 
The  surface  of  the  ground  about  the  springs,  which  is  too  hot  to  walk 
upon  with  thin  shoes,  is  covered  with  the  minerals  deposited  by  the 
waters,  among  Avhich  are  sulphur,  magnesium  sulphate,  aluminum  sul- 
phate, and  various  iron-salts.  A  properly  directed  course  of  these  waters 
is  said  to  afford  an  almost  certain  cui'e  for  rheumatism,  gout,  and  skin- 
diseases  ;  but  persons  suffering  from  throat  or  pulmonary  affections 
should  not  reside  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  Geysers  may  also  be  reached  from  San  Francisco  via  steamer  to  Tiburon 
(6  miles),  or  to  Donahue  (34  miles),  and  thence  by  the  San  Francisco  &  Northern 
Pacific  R.  R.  to  Cloverdale  on  this  road  (84  miles  from  San  Francisco),  wh^re 
stages  rmi  in  16  miles  to  the  Geysers  over  an  excellent  road  ;  or  by  the  South- 
ern Pacific  R.  R.  to  Calistoga,  and  thence  by  stages,  a  distance  of  26  miles.  A 
good  plan  for  the  tourist  is  to  go  by  one  route  and  return  by  tiie  other. 

One  of  the  excursions  most  frequently  recommended  to  the  stranger 
in  San  Francisco  is  that  to  San  Jose  and  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  {via 
Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  and  South  Pacific  Coast  R.  R.).  The  Santa 
Clara  Vallei/  lies  between  the  Coast  and  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains, 
and  is  about  100  miles  in  length;  it  is  watered  by  the  Coyote  and 
Guadalupe  Rivers  and  by  artesian  wells,  and  claims  to  be  the  most  fertile 
in  the  world.  Vineyards  covering  hundreds  of  acres,  vast  wheat-fields 
one  and  two  miles  in  length,  stately  trees,  forests  of  live-oak,  and  finely 
cultivated  farms,  are  to  be  seen  on  every  hand ;  and  the  vegetation  is  of 
tropical  luxuriance  and  beauty.  In  the  heart  of  the  valley,  40  miles  S. 
E.  of  San  Francisco  and  8  miles  from  the  head  of  San  Francisco  Bay, 
is  the  city  of  San  Jose  [Hotel  Vendome,  Lick  Bouse,  St.  James),  with 
a  population  of  18,060.  The  main  portion  of  the  city  occupies  a 
plateau  between  the  Coyote  and  Guadalupe  Rivers,  here  l-^  mile  apart, 
with  suburbs  extending  beyond  them.  The  principal  public  buildings 
are  the  ^Court-Rouse,  a  massive  Corinthian  structure,  costing  $200,000, 
with  a  dome  commanding  a  fine  Adew ;  the  Jail,  adjoining  it,  the  finest 
in  the  State,  costing  $80,000 ;  the  City  Hall ;  two  markets,  costing  more 
than  $40,000  each;  8  public-school  buildings;  and  19  churches,  of 
which  the  largest  and  most  expensive  is  an  edifice  belonging  to  the 
Roman  Catholics.  The  city  is  noted  for  its  educational  institutions. 
Besides  the  public  schools,  there  are  the  College  of  Notre  Dame  (Roman 
Catholic),  a  day  and  boarding  school  for  girls ;  the  San  Jose  Listitute,  a 
day  and  boarding  school  for  both  sexes ;  the  University  of  the  Pacific 
(Methodist),  connected  with  which  is  a  young  ladies'  seminary ;  and  the 
State  Normal  School,  whose  building,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $275,000,  is  the 
finest  of  the  kind  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  library  of  the  San  Jose 
Library  Association  contains  8,000  volumes.  There  is  an  Opera-House, 
seating  1,200  persons,  and  an  elegant  and  cormnodion'S,  Music-Hall.  The 
city  has  three  public  parks,  containing  2,  8,  and  30  acpes  respectively, 
and  owns  a  tract  of  400  acres  in  Penitencia  Canon,  7  miles  E.,  reserved 
for  a  public  park,  containing  a  wild,  rocky  gorge  with  a  mountain-stream 


Eoute  93.]  CALIFORNIA   EESOETS.  421 

and  a  variety  of  mineral  springs.  The  surrounding  country  yields 
grain  and  fruits  abundantly,  and  in  the  vicinity  are  some  of  the  finest 
vineyards  in  California.  There  are  many  fine  drives  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, notably  one  to  the  Lick  Observatory^  with  the  largest  telescope 
in  the  world,  on  Mt.  Hamilton,  26  miles  distant.  This  mountain  is 
4,443  ft.  high,  and  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Santa  Clara  Val- 
ley. The  famous  Xew  Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines  are  about  14  miles 
from  San  Jose,  and  may  be  reached  by  a  pleasant  two-hours'  ride  in 
a  stage-coach.  They  are  well  worth  a  visit.  Three  miles  W.  of  San 
Jose  is  the  picturesque  village  of  Santa  Clara,  with  a  population  of 
2,887.  Electric  cars  connect  the  two,  running  along  the  ^Alameda, 
a  beautiful  avenue  bordered  by  fine  residences,  and  rows  of  superb 
trees  planted  by  the  Jesuit  fathers  in  I'ZY'Z.  Santa  Clara  contains  sev- 
eral fine  churches,  and  is  the  site  of  the  Santa  Clara  College  (Jesuit), 
which  occupies  a  number  of  handsome  buildings  in  an  inclosure  of  about 
12  acres.  Included  in  this  institution  is  the  Old  Mission,  founded  by 
the  Spanish  missionaries  in  early  times,  and  the  orchards  planted  by 
them  may  still  be  seen.  Stages  run  from  the  depot  at  Santa  Clara  to 
the  Pacific  Congress  Springs  (10  miles  S.  W.).  These  waters  con- 
tain sodium  carbonate  and  sulphate,  sodium  chloride,  lime,  iron,  alumi- 
num silicate,  and  magnesia,  and  are  recommended  for  rheumatism. 

Xo  tourist  who  has  the  leisure  should  fail  to  stop  at  Menlo  Park, 
on  the  broad-gauge  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.,  nearly  midway  between  San 
Francisco  and  San  Jose.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  handsomest  suburban 
villas  on  the  coast,  and  boasts  many  beautiful  drives.  Four  miles  dis- 
tant is  Senator  Leland  Stanford's  great  Palo  Alto  ranch,  the  site  of 
the  Leland  Stanford,  Jr.,  University,  founded  in  1885,  several  buildings 
of  which  are  now  occupied  and  courses  of  instruction  in  progress.  On 
this  ranch  are  also  his  stables  of  famous  thoroughbreds. 

Paso  de  Robles  hot  and  cold  sulphur  springs  are  reached  from 
San  Francisco  by  Northern  Div.  of  Southern  Pacific  Co.  (215  miles),  and 
lie  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Salinas  Rivex".  The  baths  are  taken  at 
the  natural  temperature,  and  are  considered  efficacious  for  rheumatism, 
gout,  and  skin-diseases.  The  climate  is  good  and  salubrious,  and  the 
accommodations  for  visitors  excellent.  Other  health-resorts  on  the 
line  of  the  Northern  Div.  are  Paraiso  Springs,  reached  by  rail  to  Sole- 
dad  (143  miles),  thence  by  stage  route  (Y  miles),  and  the  Gilroy  Hot 
Mineral  Springs,  reached  by  rail  to  Gilroy  (80  miles),  and  thence  by 
stage  (14  miles). 

San  Luis  Obispo  (reached  by  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  Santa 
Margarita  and  then  10  miles  by  stage,  or  by  steamer  to  Port  Hartford 
and  thence  by  railroad)  is  a  city  of  2,982  inhabitants,  built  on  the  site 
of  the  old  mission,  in  a  beautiful  country.  The  Hotel  Ramona  is  one 
of  the  largest  on  the  coast,  and  commands  a  fine  view. 

On  the  way  to  Southern  California  by  the  S.  P.  R.  R.  the  tourist 
will  not  regret  a  day  spent  at  Fresno  [Hughes  House),  the  chief  city  of 
the  San  Joaquin  Valley  and  the  center  of  the  raisin  industry.  For  20 
miles  around  the  city  one  may  drive  through  vineyards  of  raisin-grapes 
over  roads  as  level  and  smooth  as  a  barn-floor.     Fresno's  wealth  is 


422  CALIFORNIA  EESOETS.  [Route  93. 

due  to  the  colony  system,  which  has  resulted  in  making  it  the  mar- 
ket for  nine  tenths  of  the  raisins  produced  in  this  State.  In  1890  over 
15,000,000  pounds  of  raisins  were  shipped  from  this  place.  Its  popu- 
lation in  1890  was  10,818. 

Southern  California. 

Among  the  health-resorts  of  Southern  California,^  one  of  the  most 
popular  is  Santa  Barbara  {Arlington  Hotel,  San  3farciis),  lying  in  a 
sheltered  nook  of  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  275  miles  S.  S.  E.  of  San 
Francisco  (from  which  it  is  reached  by  steamer,  and  also  via  Southern 
Pacific  R.  R.  to  Saiigus  (449  miles),  and  thence  by  branch  railroad).  It 
is  completely  protected  on  the  N.  by  several  ranges  of  mountains,  and  its 
climate  is  extremely  equable  and  mild,  the  mean  temperature  for  summer 
being  69-58°,  and  for  winter  53-33°,  while  the  variations  are  very  slight. 
The  air,  too,  is  not  only  warm,  but  remarkably  dry ;  and  the  days  are 
nearly  always  brilliantly  bright  and  sunny.  The  town  has  grown  out 
of  an  old  Spanish  mission  which  was  founded  in  1*780,  and  which  grad- 
ually drew  around  it  the  native  cultivators  of  the  adjacent  lands.  Its 
population  in  1890  was  5,849,  most  of  whom  are  Americans  that  have 
come  here  in  search  of  health  from  the  New  England  and  Middle 
States  ;  and  as  most  of  these  latter  belong  to  what  are  called  the 
"  better  classes,"  the  society  of  the  place  is  exceptionally  pleasant  and 
refined.  There  are  2  banks,  a  college,  good  public  schools,  3  daily  and 
2  weekly  newspapers,  and  Y  churches.  The  town  contains  a  "  Spanish 
quarter  "  and  a  "  Chinese  quarter,"  both  of  which  will  prove  interest- 
ing to  strangers  by  their  tumble-down  picturesqueness ;  but  the  new  or 
American  part  of  the  town  and  the  suburbs  are  handsomely  built. 
Vines  of  every  sort  flourish  luxuriantly,  heliotrope  climbs  20  ft.  high, 
cacti  of  the  rarest  and  most  curious  sort  grow  freely,  and  a  little  shoot  of 
the  Australian  blue-gum  {Eucalyptus  globulus)  becomes  in  2  years  a  shade- 
tree  15  or  20  ft.  high.  Montecito  is  a  suburb  2  or  3  miles  from  the  town, 
near  which  are  the  Hot  Sulphur  Springs,  some  containing  sulphur  and 
hydrogen  sulphide,  and  others  containing  iron,  alumina,  and  potash. 
Horseback-riding,  surf-bathing,  and  driving  among  the  canons  are  the 
recreations  at  Santa  Barbara. 

liOS  Angeles  {Hollenheck,  Hoffman,  Nadeau,  Westminster),  the 
largest  city  in  Southern  California,  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Los 
Angeles  River,  a  small  stream,  30  miles  above  its  entrance  into  the  Pa- 
cific, and  350  miles  S.  S.  E.  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  connected  by  rail 
Avith  Redondo  and  San  Pedro,  whence  it  has  connection  with  San  Fran- 
cisco by  steamer ;  also  via  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  (482  miles).  The 
city  was  settled  by  the  Spaniards  in  1*780,  and  was  called  Pueblo  de  la 
Reina  de  los  Angeles  (the  Town  of  the  Queen  of  the  Angels).  Its  popu- 
lation by  the  census  of  1880  was  11,311,  but  in  1890  was  50,395,  and 
the  adobe  buildings  of  which  it  was  originally  composed  are  fast  giving 
way  to  larger  and  more  imposing  structures.     With  the  exception  of 

1  Full  particulars  concerning  these  health-resorts,  with  details  as  to  climate, 
changes  of  temperature,  relative  dryness,  etc.,  etc.,  willbefound  in  "  Appletons' 
Illustrated  Hand-Book  of  American  Winter-Eesorts.'" 


I 


Route  93.]       •  CALIFORNIA   RESORTS.  423 

San  Diego,  its  growth  has  been  more  rapid  since  1880  than  that  of  any 
city  in  the  State.  Its  public  buildings  and  private  residences  are  very 
handsome.  During  recent  years  it  has  built  90  miles  of  street  rail- 
ways. Its  City  Hall  cost  $210,000,  and  the  County  Court- House  cost 
$500,000.  There  have  lately  been  built  the  Post-Office  and  United 
States  Courts  Building^  which  will  cost  $500,000.  The  Catholic  Or- 
phan Asylum^  now  building,  will  cost  $175,000.  The  State  Reform 
School^  at  Whittier,  21  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  which  cost  $200,000, 
was  recently  dedicated.  In  the  N.  W.  portion  is  a  hill  60  ft.  high, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  which  lies  in  a  sheltered  valley, 
bounded  on  the  W.  by  low  hills,  that  extend  from  the  Santa  Monica 
Mountains,  40  miles  distant,  and  on  the  E.  by  the  San  Gabriel  plateau. 
The  climate  of  Los  Angeles  is  almost  as  mild  as  that  of  San  Diego, 
and  some  invalids  prefer  it.  The  nights,  however,  are  chilly,  and  it  is 
not  considered  a  desirable  residence  for  persons  affected  with  throat- 
diseases.  Along  both  banks  of  the  river  below  the  city  extends  a  fer- 
tile plain,  planted  with  vineyards  and  orange-groves,  and  there  are  also 
large  vineyards  within  the  city  limits.  Los  Angeles  is  the  center  of  the 
petroleum  district  of  South  California,  of  vast  asphaltum  deposits,  and 
of  the  orange  and  other  citrus  fruit-growing  business  of  Califoi^nia.  It 
is  also  the  railway-center  of  California,  being  a  terminal  point  of  the 
Southern  Pacific,  the  Southern  California  Railway,  and  also  of  several 
local  lines.  Los  Angeles  is  the  center  of  the  fruit-industry,  which  has 
now  attained  enormous  proportions.  The  large  valleys  adjacent  are  a 
continuous  succession  of  orchards  and  vineyards  in  the  highest  state 
of  cultivation,  and  are  in  themselves  a  source  of  great  beauty  and 
interest  to  the  tourist.  Redondo  Beach,  a  seaside  resort  and  the  sea- 
port of  Los  Angeles,  is  IV  miles  S.  W.  Its  fine  beach,  superior  hotel 
{Hotel  Redondo),  and  bathing  facilities,  make  it  a  favorite  resort.  Ten 
miles  N.  E.  of  Los  Angeles  is  Pasadena,  first  settled  in  1874  by  citi- 
zens of  Indianapolis,  and  soon  celebrated  for  its  horticultural  enterprise. 
Health-seekers  soon  flocked  to  it,  and  the  population  in  1890  was  11,879. 
The  streets  are  lighted  with  gas ;  there  are  lines  of  horse-cars,  three 
banks,  two  daily  newspapers,  and  a  public  library ;  and  the  hotel,  the 
Raymond,  is  large,  well  appointed,  and  beautifully  situated.  The  Carle- 
ton  is  also  a  good  hotel,  centrally  situated.  Wilson's  Peak,  near  Pasa- 
dena, is  a  peculiar  vantage-point  for  sight-seers.  Its  summit  (6,000  ft. 
high),  formerly  reached  by  a  burro-train,  over  a  good  trail,  affords  a 
view  of  the  surrounding  country  within  a  radius  of  100  miles,  the 
clear,  dry  atmosphere  rendering  this  possible.  It  was  used  during  sev- 
eral seasons  as  a  site  for  astronomical  observations  conducted  under 
the  auspices  of  Harvard  University.  An  electric  railway  has  been  built 
from  Pasadena  to  the  summit. 

About  60  miles  E.  of  Los  Angeles  (by  the  Southern  California  and 
Southern  Pacific  R.  R.)  is  San  Bernardino  [Hotel  Stewart,  Southeryi 
Hotel),  in  a  beautiful  valley,  with  picturesque  mountains  on  three  sides  of 
it,  and  contains  some  4,005  inhabitants.  The  view  of  Mt.  San  Bernardino, 
the  loftiest  peak  of  the  Coast  Range,  is  exceedingly  grand.  The  air  of 
San  Bernardino  is  drier  than  that  of  points  nearer  the  coast,  malaria  is 


424  CALIFORNIA   RESORTS.  [Route  93. 

unknown,  and  the  climate  is  a  perpetual  invitation  to  an  open-air  life. 
Invalids  find  a  residence  in  Old  San  Bernardino  (which  lies  higher  than 
the  new  town),  or  in  Kiverside  {Glenwood),  more  beneficial  than  one 
in  the  town  proper.  Riverside,  12  miles  S.  of  San  Bernardino,  is  the 
finest  type  of  colony  town  in  Southern  California.  It  has  a  main  avenue 
12  miles  long,  with  a  double  drive  shaded  by  magnolia  and  pepper  trees 
and  fan  palms.  It  is  the  chief  seat  of  navel-orange  culture.  It  has  ten 
churches,  eight  schools,  several  large  hotels,  and  many  costly  residences. 
Its  population  is  4,678.  Another  fine  colony  town  on  the  Southern 
Pacific  road,  33  miles  S.  E.  of  Los  Angeles,  is  Foinona,  largely  set- 
tled by  Enghsh  families  of  means ;  it  is  the  center  of  orange-groves  and 
vineyards.  The  Hotel  Palomares  cost  $100,000,  and  is  finely  fitted  up. 
About  4  miles  distant,  near  Mt.  San  Bernardino,  are  some  hot  springs. 
Horses  maybe  bought  at  from  $20  to  $50  each  at  San  Bernardino;  their 
keep  costs  very  little,  and  many  attractive  excursions  may  be  made — to 
the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  the  Great  Yuma  Desert,  the  San  Jacinto  tin-mines, 
or  the  placer  gold  diggings.  A  few  miles  from  Seven  Palms,  on  the  edge 
of  the  great  desert,  is  Palm  Valley^  with  a  good  hotel  and  famous  hot 
springs.  The  place  is  worth  visiting,  because  near  by  in  a  mountain 
canon  is  the  only  natural  grove  of  date-palm  tiees  in  California. 

San  Diego  {Brewster.,  Florence  Hotel.,  Horton  House.,  St.  James), 
another  resort,  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa 
Fe  R.  R.,  lies  on  the  N.  E.  shore  of  a  bay  of  the  same  name,  about  460 
miles  S.  E.  of  San  Francisco  and  15  miles  N.  of  the  Mexican  border, 
and  is  the  second  city  of  Southern  California.  Its  harbor  is,  next  to 
that  of  San  Francisco,  the  best  on  the  California  coast.  The  town  is 
more  than  100  years  old,  having  been  founded  by  the  Roman  Catholic 
missionaries  in  1769.  Its  growth  during  the  last  few  years  has  been 
rapid,  and  it  now  has  20  churches,  2  academies,  several  daily  and  weekly 
newspapers,  6  banks,  a  fine  court-house,  excellent  hotels,  numerous 
boarding-houses,  and  a  population  in  1890  of  16,159.  The  climate  of 
San  Diego  is  remarkably  equable  and  salubrious,  the  thermometer  sel- 
dom rising  to  80°,  or  sinking  to  the  freezing-point,  and  the  usual  mean 
being  62°.  The  winter  days  are  as  sunny  and  inviting  as  those  of  June 
in  the  Eastern  States,  and  an  out-door  life  is  possible  to  all  save  the 
feeblest  invalids.  There  is  no  fog,  and  very  little  moisture  in  the  air. 
San  Diego  is  a  healthful  place  of  residence,  and,  like  all  this  section  of 
California,  it  is  exempt  from  diseases  of  a  malarious  character.  The 
points  of  interest  are  the  Siveetivater  Dam,  the  San  Diego  Mission,  the 
La  Jolla  Cave,  the  Mussel-beds,  Point  Loma  Lighthouse,  Tia  Juana,  the 
Monument  on  the  Mexican  boundary-line,  and  El  Cajon  Valley.  San 
Diego  is  connected  with  San  Francisco  by  steamer  along  the  coast,  or 
by  the  Southern  California  Railway  (Santa  Fe  System)  to  Los  Angeles, 
thence  by  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R. 

On  a  peninsula  directly  opposite  San  Diego  is  Coronado  Beach. 
It  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  steam-ferry,  and  thence  to  the 
hotel  is  a  short  railway  on  which  trains  run  every  ten  minutes.  This  re- 
sort is  of  comparatively  recent  origin,  and  a  few  years  ago  it  was  a  waste 
of  sand.     The  Hotel  del  Coronado,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  hotels  in 


Route  93^  CALIFORNIA   RESORTS.  425 

the  world,  is  situated  directly  on  the  edge  of  the  beach  overlooking  the 
ocean.  Architecturally  it  is  of  mixed  character,  partaking  of  the 
Queen  Anne  style,  and  having  also  much  that  is  peculiar  to  the 
Elizabethan  age.  The  hotel  itself  covers  more  than  Vi  acres,  and  is 
built  around  a  quadrangular  court  of  250  by  150  feet,  in  which  is  a  gar- 
den containing  many  varieties  of  ornamental  shrubs  and  fruit-trees, 
and  where  at  night,  when  illuminated  with  electric  lights,  and  with  the 
fountain  playing  amid  the  music  from  the  orchestra,  the  scene  resem- 
bles fairy-land.  In  the  building  there  are  '750  rooms,  and  the  dining- 
room  has  a  seating  capacity  for  1,000  people.  The  peculiar  charm  of 
Coronado  is  its  equable  temperature.  During  the  summer  it  is  10°  cool- 
er than  at  Naples,  Mentone,  Rome,  Nice,  or  Florence,  and  is  8°  warmer 
during  the  winter  months.  The  mean  temperature  of  the  summer  and 
winter  months  varies  only  about  12°.  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  who 
spent  part  of  the  winter  of  1889-90  at  this  beach,  writes  of  the  vicin- 
ity :  "  It  lies  there,  our  Mediterranean  region,  on  a  blue  ocean  protected 
by  barriers  of  granite  from  the  northern  influences,  an  infinite  vaiiety 
of  plain,  caiion,  hills,  valleys,  sea-coast — our  new  Italy,  without  ma- 
laria and  with  every  sort  of  fruit  which  we  desire  (except  the  tropical), 
which  will  be  grown  in  perfection  when  our  knowledge  equals  our  am- 
bition ;  and  if  you  can  not  find  a  winter  home  there,  or  pass  some  con- 
tented weeks  in  the  months  of  Northern  Inclemency,  you  are  weighiug 
social  advantages  against  those  of  the  least  objectionable  climate  with- 
in the  Union.  It  is  not  yet  proved  that  this  equabihty  and  the  daily 
outdoor  life  possible  there  will  change  character,  but  they  are  likely  to 
improve  the  disposition  and  soften  the  asperities  of  common  life.  At 
any  rate,  there  is  a  land  where,  from  November  to  April,  one  has  not 
to  make  a  continual  fight  with  the  elements  to  keep  alive,"  The  ex- 
cellence of  the  Coronado  Springs  water,  which  has  a  recognized  medi- 
cinal value,  is  one  of  the  charms  of  the  resort.  Along  the  beach  are 
hundreds  of  cottages,  with  their  gardens  brilliant  with  flowers  ;  and, 
for  those  who  want  other  allurements,  there  are  a  race-track,  a  mu- 
seum, an  ostrich-farm,  a  botanical  garden,  a  labyrinth,  good  roads  for 
driving,  besides  many  other  attractions. 

The  visitor  has  choice  of  various  excursions,  any  one  of  which  will 
make  a  pleasant  outing  for  the  day.  Among  these  are  the  ride  over 
the  National  City  &  Otay  R.  R.  to  the  famous  Sweetwater  Dam  and  the 
quaint  old  town  of  Tia  Juana,  across  the  Mexican  border.  This  great 
dam,  which  was  begun  in  1886  and  finished  in  1888,  is  built  of  solid 
granite  and  Portland  cement,  and  has  a  capacity  of  six  billion  gallons. 
It  is  90  feet  high,  46  feet  thick  at  the  base,  and  396  feet  long  at  the 
top.  Its  cost  was  $200,000.  From  this  immense  reservoir  of  YOO 
acres  San  Diego,  National  City,  and  Chula  Yista  obtain  their  water- 
supply.  The  trip  from  Coronado  to  the  dam  is  a  charming  one,  through 
orange  and  olive  groves,  and  in  full  view  of  the  bay  and  ocean. 

Chula  Vista,  which  the  railway  traverses  from  north  to  south,  is  a 
tract  of  5,000  acres  subdivided  into  five  and  ten  acre  lots,  which  are 
sold  only  to  those  who  will  build  homes  upon  them  which  shall  not 
cost  less  than  $2,000.     Thirty-five  miles  of  sti*eets  have  been  graded 


426  SAN   FRANCISCO   TO    PORTLAND,  [Route  9^. 

and  lined  -witli  trees.     The  site  of  Chula  Yista  seems  to  have  been 
selected,  as  its  name  would  indicate,  for  its  picturesque  surroundings. 

After  leaving  Chula  Vista,  the  train  soon  reaches  Otay  City  and  en- 
ters the  valley  of  the  same  name,  with  its  acres  of  fields  and  orchards, 
and  shortly  afterward  crosses  the  Otay  River  to  the  valley  of  Tia  Juana. 
Here  he  who  has  never  set  foot  on  other  than  American  soil  may  enjoy 
the  sensation  of  feeling  that  he  is  in  foreign  territory.  Here  he  also 
may  have  his  first  taste  of  frijoles  or  torlillas — beans  or  pancakes. 

94.  San  Francisco  to  Portland,  Oregon. 

Besides  the  overland  route  described  below,  there  are  several  lines  of  coast- 
steamers  from  San  Francisco  to  Portland,  Victoria,  and  intervening  ports.  The 
Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Co.  runs  semi-weekly  steamers,  and  the'voyage  from 
San  Francisco  to  Portland  occupies  about  2  days.  The  steamers  of  the  Union 
Pacific  system  ply  between  San  Francisco  and  Portland,  leaving  each  of  these 
places  every  few  days. 

The  Shasta  Route,  consisting  of  the  main  line  of  the  Central  Pacific 
R.  R.  to  Sacramento,  and  thence  over  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  Port- 
land, affords  an  excursion  route  of  unsurpassed  scenic  beauty.  Trains 
with  sleeping  and  buffet  car  service  carry  the  tourist  through  without 
change,  and  give  the  benefit  of  day  travel  to  the  most  attractive  sec- 
tions of  the  journey. 

(From  San  Francisco  to  Sacramento,  see  Route  90.)  From  Saci-a- 
mento  the  Califoi-nia  and  Oregon  Div.  of  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  di- 
verges from  the  main  line  and  extends  to  Ashland,  the  terminus  of  the 
Oregon  &  California  R.  R.  The  total  distance  from  San  Francisco  to 
Portland  by  this  route  is  '772  miles. 

Leaving  Sacramento,  the  R.  R.  follows  the  Sacramento  River  in  a 
general  northern  direction.  The  country  traversed  is  one  of  the  most 
productive  wheat-growing  sections  of  the  State.  The  first  important 
station  is  Marysville  (142  miles),  a  flourishing  town  of  3,936  inhabit- 
ants at  the  confluence  of  the  Yuba  and  Feather  Rivers,  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  latter.  It  is  well  built,  has  several  foundries  and 
machine-shops,  and  contains  an  abundance  of  choice  fruit  and  shade 
trees.  From  Marysville  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  ■  the  Marysville 
Buttes,  an  isolated  chain  of  mountains  which  rise  from  the  plain  of  the 
Sacramento  Valley  to  the  height  of  1,200  ft.  and  extend  for  some  8 
miles  in  length,  forming  a  remarkable  feature  of  the  scenery.  Beyond 
Marysville  the  Feather  River  is  crossed,  and  the  train  traverses  the 
upper  Sacramento  Valley,  which  was  formerly  one  great  wheat-field,  but 
which  is  now  being  rapidly  converted  into  small  fruit  farms.  Chico 
(186  miles)  is  another  thriving  town  of  2,892  inhabitants,  situated  on 
the  Chico  Creek  near  its  junction  with  the  Sacramento  River.  Here  is 
the  branch  Normal  School  for  Northern  California.  Just  N.  of  the 
town  is  the  magnificent  estate  of  Gen.  John  Bidwell,  which  comprises 
32,000  acres  in  one  tract.  The  orchard  is  filled  with  oranges,  lemons,  figs, 
•  walnuts,  almonds,  and  other  choice  fruits ;  and  the  vegetable  and  flower 
gardens  are  said  to  be  unsurpassed  in  Northern  California.  From  the 
plains  near  Chico  can  be  seen  the  snowy  summits  of  Mt,  Shasta,  216 


Route  94.]         SAN    FRANCISCO    TO    PORTLAND.  42 Y 

miles  distant.  Near  Tehama  (213  miles)  the  Sacramento  River  is  crossed, 
and  the  train  passes  several  small  stations  to  Redding  (260  miles). 

At  McCloud,  just  beyond  Redding,  the  vSacramento  Valley  is  left  be- 
hind, though  the  river  is  ascended  for  about  80  miles  amid  the  foot-hills. 
The  jST.  extremity  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range  is  then  climbed  and  crossed, 
and  the  road  strikes  the  Pitt  and  McCloud  Rivers,  the  main  affluents  of 
the  upper  Sacramento.  "  Near  the  crossing  of  the  McCloud,"  says  Mr. 
Williams  in  his  "Pacific  Tourist,"  "is  the  IJ.  S.  fish-hatching  establish- 
ment. All  these  rivers  abound  in  trout  and  salmon,  but  the  best  place 
on  them  for  trout-fishing  is  the  upper  waters  of  the  McCloud.  Castle 
Rocks^  about  opposite  Lower  Soda  Springs  (320  miles),  is  a  startling 
upheaval  of  solid  granite,  with  its  perpendicular  wall  rising  at  a  single 
bound  to  an  altitude  of  4,000  ft.  above  the  valley,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  marvelous  scenes  in  California  mountain  scenery.  The  valley  of 
the  Sacramento  grows  narrower  as  one  goes  N.,  and  at  last  is  almost  a 
canon.  The  Afosshrae  Falls  are  seen  from  the  train  as  it  approaches 
Upper  Soda  Springs  (65  miles  N.  of  Redding) ;  and,  just  beyond,  the 
road  ascends  from  the  river  to  an  extensive  mountain-basin,  walled  in  by 
yet  loftier  mountains — a  sort  of  semicircular  wall  from  the  Scott  Mts.  on 
the  N.  to  Trinity  on  the  W.  and  Castle  Rock  on  the  S.  E.  On  the  E.  side 
of  the  road,  and  in  this  great  basin,  Mt.  Shasta  rears  its  lofty  head  into  the 
dark,  deep  blue  of  heaven."  The  ascent  of  **Mt.  Shasta  is  made 
from  Sisso7i's  CZS  miles  from  Redding,  338  from  San  Francisco),  and 
though  tedious  is  not  dangerous.  The  trip  will  take  about  36  hours, 
and  the  cost,  including  horses,  guides,  provisions,  etc.,  will  be  $15  to  $20 
for  each  person,  according  to  the  size  of  the  party.  Shasta  from  Sisson's 
is  a  broad  triple  mountain,  the  central  summit  (14,442  ft.  high)  being 
flanked  on  the  W.  by  a  large  and  quite  perfect  crater  whose  rim  is  12,000 
ft.  high.  As  a  whole,  Shasta  is  the  cone  of  an  immense  extinct  volcano, 
which  rises  from  its  base  11,000  ft.  in  one  sweep. 

Beyond  Sisson's  several  fine  views  of  Shasta  are  obtained  from 
various  points  on  the  road,  the  best  being  from  the  summit  of  Scott 
Mt.,  which  is  crossed  at  an  elevation  of  5,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  An- 
other fine  distant  view  is  obtained  from  a  ridge  just  E.  of  Montague  (IIY 
miles  from  Redding),  and  beyond  which  the  road  climbs  up  the  Siski- 
you Mts.  over  a  grade  of  220  ft.  until  an  elevation  of  4,100  ft.  is  reached. 
A  mile  beyond  Coles  the  State  line  is  passed.  At  Ashland  (843  miles), 
the  Oregon  &  California  R.  R.  begins,  passing  through  Roseburg^  and 
running,  during  its  whole  route  of  200  miles,  through  the  beautiful  and 
productive  Willamette  Valley.  Many  pretty  towns  cluster  along  the 
railway,  but  none  require  special  mention  until  Salem  {Willamette  Hotel)^ 
the  capital  of  Oregon,  is  reached,  52  miles  from  Portland.  Salem  is  a 
growing  city,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Willamette  River,  surrounded  by 
a  fertile  prairie.  Mill  Creek  enters  the  river  at  this  point,  and  its  rapid 
fall  affords  a  good  water-power,  which  is  extensively  used  in  manufact- 
uring. Here  are  Willamette  University  and  three  State  institutions, 
the  Penitentiary,  the  Deaf -Mute  School,  and  the  Institute  for  the  Blind. 
Thirty-seven  miles  beyond  Salem,  at  the  Falls  of  the  Willamette,  is 
Oregon  City  {Cliff  Bouse),  with  a  population  of  3,062,  and  several 


428  PORTLAND   TO    ALASKA.  [Route  95. 

lai'ge  flouring  and  woolen  mills.  The  falls  have  a  descent  of  38  ft., 
and  constitute  one  of  the  finest  water-powers  in  the  world.  Fifteen 
miles  beyond  Oregon  City  the  train  reaches  Portland.  (See  Route 
106.) 

95.  Portland  to  Alaska. 

By  mail-steamer  leaving  Portland  twice  every  month,  calling  at  Fort 
Wrangel.  Sitka,  and  Juneau  ;  and  excursion-steamers  from  Port  Townsend  at 
more  frequent  intervals. 

The  steamer  from  Portland  goes  down  the  Columbia  River^  up 
the  coast  of  Washington  to  Port  Townsend,  Puget  Sound,  where  it  re- 
ceives the  mails  from  San  Francisco.  Port  Towiisend  is  the  last  port 
of  entry  in  the  United  States,  and  here  connection  is  made  with  steam- 
ers from  San  Francisco. 

In  recent  years  the  remarkable  scenery  of  Alaska  has  attracted  a 
large  number  of  visitors.  The  sea-voyage  is  one  of  great  fascination, 
being  almost  continuously  within  sight  of  land,  thus  affording  the  tour- 
ists a  view  of  the  coast  and  islands  from  Puget  Sound  northward. 
Considerable  interest  has  been  attached  to  Mt.  St.  Elias,  which  is  be- 
lieved to  be  the  highest  mountain-peak  within  the  territory  of  the 
United  States.  Several  expeditions  under  the  auspices  of  the  national 
Government  have  endeavored  to  reach  its  summit,  but  thus  far  without 
success.  The  glaciers,  notably  the  Muir  Glacier,  on  the  steamship 
route,  are  unique  attractions  of  Alaska,  and  they  have  received  much 
attention  from  tourists. 

Alaska,  580,170  sq.  miles  in  extent,  was  purchased  from  Russia, 
in  1867,  for  $7,200,000,  and  by  act  of  Congress,  May  17,  1884,  was  con- 
stituted  a  civil  and  judicial  district,  and  a  governor  and  other  officers 
appointed. 

Sitka,  the  capital,  and  residence  of  the  Governor,  the  seat  of  the 
Bishop  of  the  Greek  Church,  and  the  site  of  the  United  States  Land- 
Office,  \^  on  Baranof  Island,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Territory. 
The  Sitkan  or  Alexander  Archipelago  comprises  1,100  islands  of  con- 
siderable fertility.  Next  to  Sitka  in  importance  is  Fort  Wrangel, 
S.  E.  from  Sitka,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Stikene  River,  which  has  been 
aptly  described  as  "a  Yosemite  100  miles  long."  "Here,"  says  John 
Muir,  "  Indians  may  be  seen  on  the  platforms  of  the  half  a  dozen  stores, 
chiefly  grim  women  and  cubby-chubby  children  with  wild  eyes."  Una- 
lashka,  one  of  the  seventy  Aleutian  Islands  that  stretch  out 
toward  Japan,  and  Juneau  City,  about  100  miles  N.  of  Sitka,  are, 
with  the  two  places  previously  named,  designated  by  Congress  as  the 
residences  of  four  United  States  commissioners  who  have  the  powers 
of  justices  of  the  peace. 

The  great  river  Yukon,  which  Lieut.  Frederick  Schwatka  has  made 
known  by  his  arduous  voyages,  runs  through  the  center  of  the  Territory, 
and  empties  into  Behring  Sea,  being  navigable  in  summer  for  700  miles. 

The  Seal  Islands,  discovered  by  Pribyloif  in  1788,  lie  240  miles 
N.  of  the  Aleutian  Islands.  St.  Paul,  the  largest,  is  1,491  miles  W.  of 
Sitka,  and  250  miles  from  the  nearest  mainland. 


RoKte  96 A  ST.    LOUIS    TO    DENVER.  429 


96.  St.  Louis  to  Denver. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City  four  routes  are  available :  The  Wa- 
bash R.  R.  (distance,  275  miles) ;  the  Missouri  Pacific  Railway  (distance, 
282  miles) ;  the  Chicago  &  Alton  R.  R.  (distance,  323  miles) ;  and  the 
Burlington  Route  (distance,  335  miles).  All  four  routes  traverse  a  rich 
and  productive  section  of  Missouri.  The  principal  stations  on  the  Wa- 
bash R.  R.  are  St.  Charles  (23  miles),  where  the  Missouri  River  is  crossed 
on  a  magnificent  steel  bridge,  Warrenton  (61  miles),  Monigornery  (84 
miles),  Mexico  (110  miles),  Centralia  (124  miles),  Moherly  (148  miles), 
Salisbury  (169  miles),  Brutisivick  (187  miles),  Miami  (197  miles),  Car- 
rollton  (211  miles),  and  Missouri  City  (255  miles). 

The  Missouri  Pacific  Railway  has  a  considerable  number  of  large 
towns  en  route.  Kirkwood  (13  miles)  is  a  beautiful  suburban  town 
with  many  fine  villas  of  St.  Louis  merchants.  Pacific  (37  miles), 
Washington  (54  miles),  and  Hermann  (81  miles)  are  prosperous  and 
handsome  towns.  Jefferson  City  (125  miles;  MacUsoji  House,  Mon- 
roe House)  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Missouri,  and  is  beautifully 
situated  on  high  bluffs  which  overlook  the  Missouri  River  for  many 
miles.  It  is  well  built,  and  has  a  population  of  6,742.  The  State- 
House  is  a  handsome  stone  edifice ;  the  State  Penitentiary  is  massive 
and  spacious ;  there  are  8  churches  of  various  denominations ;  the 
State  Library  contains  12,000  volumes;  and  there  are  numerous  flour- 
mills  and  factories.  Sedalia  (188  miles;  Hotel  Kaiser,  Sichers  Hotel) 
is  a  manufacturing  town  and  railroad  center,  built  on  one  of  the 
highest  swells  of  a  rolling  prairie,  and  containing  14,068  inhabitants. 
The  principal  street  is  120  ft.  wide,  is  finely  shaded,  and  has  many 
handsome  buildings.  The  shops  of  two  R.  R.  companies  are  located 
here,  and  there  are  extensive  mills,  foundries,  machine-shops,  etc.  Perth 
Springs,  a  famous  local  resort,  is  near  this  place.  Warrenshurg  (218 
miles),  Holden  (232  miles).  Pleasant  Hill  (249  miles),  and  Independ- 
ence (273  miles)  "are  all  neat  and  thriving  towns,  wdth  much  business 
activity. 

At  Kansas  City  connection  is  made  with  all  lines  to  the  West,  and, 
in  connection  with  the  Union  Pacific,  through  vestibuled  sleeping-cai  s 
are  run  from  St.  Louis  to  Denver,  Cheyenne,  Ogden,  and  as  far  as  Salt 
Lake  City  without  change,  connecting  at  Ogden  with  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific for  San  Francisco. 

Also,  the  route  from  St.  Louis  to  Texas  is  over  the  Iron  Mountain 
Route  to  that  State.  This  line,  in  connection  with  the  Texas  &  Pa- 
cific and  Southern  Pacific  R.  Rs.,  run  through  buffet  sleeping-cars  from 
St.  Louis,  by  way  of  Little  Rock,  Texarkana,  Dallas,  Fort  Worth,  and 
El  Paso  to  Los  Angeles  and  San  Francisco. 

The  Chicago  &  Alton  R.  R.  route  has  already  been  described  in  reverse 
as  far  as  Alton  (see  Route  85).  The  junction  with  the  Chicago,  Bur- 
lington &  Quincy  R.  R.  is  at  Whitehall  {^%  miles),  and  at  Louisiana  (109 
miles)  connection  is  made  with  St.  Louis,  Keokuk  &  North w^estern  R.  R., 
and  with  Missouri  River  steamers.     Mexico  (160  miles ;  Windsor  Hotel, 


430  ST.    L0XJI8   TO   DENVER.  [Route  96. 

Binges  House)  is  a  city  of  4,'789  inhabitants,  and  has  considerable  trade 
and  manufacturing.  It  has  9  churches,  and  is  the  seat  of  Hardin  College 
(for  women).  Here  also  is  a  point  of  junction  \\\t\i  the  Wabash  R.  R. 
At  Glasgow  (216  miles;  Glasgow  Hotel)^  a  town  of  1,'781  population, 
there  are  several  mills  and  factories  and  some  excellent  educational 
institutions,  among  them  Lewis  College.  Marshall  (239  miles ;  Mioige's 
Hotel)  is  a  town  of  4,297  population,  and  has  a  number  of  thriving 
carriage  and  wagon  factories.  At  this  place  there  are  many  remarka- 
ble salt-springs.  Higginsville  (268  miles)  and  Independence  (313  miles) 
are  enterprising  towns,  both  points  of  junction  with  branches  of  the 
Missouri  Pacific  R.  R. 

The  Burlington  Route  has  a  direct  line  to  Kansas  City,  passing  over 
the  Mississippi  Valley  and  interior  Missouri.  Among  the  important 
places  along  the  route  are  Clarksville  (76  miles),  noted  for  its  Missouri 
cider ;  Louisiana  (86  miles)  has  tobacco-works,  and  ships  to  the  St. 
Louis  market;  Hannibal  {111  miles)  is  the  junction  of  three  railroads, 
and  is  a  place  of  some  12,857  inhabitants;  also  one  of  the  principal 
shipping  points  in  Missouri.  Shelhina  (158  miles),  Brookiield,  (215 
miles),  and  Laclede  (220  miles)  are  among  the  cities  of  Missouri  through 
which  the  Burlington  Route  passes  before  reaching  Kansas  City. 

*  Kansas  City  {Midland  Hotel^  Coates  House^  Centropolis  House^ 
St.  James  Hotel,  Brunswick)  is  the  second  city  of  Missouri,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  132,716,  and  is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Missouri  River, 
just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  River,  and  near  the  Kansas  border. 
It  is  well  built,  chiefly  of  brick,  and  contains  a  fine  Board  of  Trade 
Building  and  many  handsome  business  blocks  and  private  residences. 
Among  the  buildings  recently  erected  are  the  Custom-House,  New  York 
Life- Insurance  Company  Building,  Midland  Hotel,  Nev)  England  Build- 
ing, and  Warder  Grand  Opera-House.  It  has  an  immense  and  increas- 
ing trade,  which  is  brought  to  it  by  the  18  important  railroads  which 
converge  here,  and  by  the  steamboat  traflSc  on  the  liver ;  and  some  of 
the  largest  packing-houses  are  located  here,  such  as  Armour'^ s,  Foioler 
Brothers,  and  Jacob  Lold^s.  The  stock-yards  are  next  to  those  of  Chi- 
cago in  size.  The  first  bridge  built  across  the  Missouri  is  located  at 
Kansas  City;  it  is  1,387  ft.  long,  and  cost  over  $1,000,000.  A  later 
railway  bridge  built  by  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  R.  at  the 
east  end  of  the  city  is  7,392  ft.  long.  The  Union  Depot  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  West.  Several  lines  of  street  railroads,  seven  cable-roads, 
and  one  elevated  road,  run  to  various  parts  of  the  city,  and  to  the 
suburbs  of  Kansas  City,  Kan.,  and  Westport. 

Kansas  City  to  Denver  via  Katuas  Div.  of  Union  Pacific  System. 

On.  this  route  there  are  two  through  trains  daily,  which  run  from 
Kansas  City  to  Denver  without  change  in  20  hours.  They  traverse 
the  central  portion  of  Kansas,  linking  together  the  principal  cities  and 
towns  of  the  State,  and  affording  the  opportunity  to  view  its  famous 
wheat  and  corn  fields  and  immense  cattle-ranges.  Striking  the  Kan- 
sas (or  Kaw)  River  at  Kansas  City,  the  route  follows  the  windings 
of  this  beautiful  stream  for  nearly  200  miles  amid  extremely  pleas- 


Route  96.']  ST.  LOUIS  TO  denyer.  431 

ing  scenery,  and  as  it  approaches  the  Rocky  Mountains  commands 
some  grand  views.  Leaving  Kansas  City,  the  train  passes  in  38  miles 
to  liawrence  {Eldrklge  House),  a  beautiful  city  of  9, 997  inhabit- 
ants situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Kansas  River,  which  is  here  spanned 
by  2  bridges.  It  is  built  on  a  rolling  slope,  and  is  regularly  laid  out, 
with  wide  streets,  partly  shaded  by  trees,  and  many  handsome  build- 
ings. Massachusetts  St.,  the  principal  business  thoroughfare,  is  built 
up  for  nearly  a  mile  with  blocks  of  brick  and  stone.  The  State  Uni- 
versity^ consisting  of  three  large  and  handsome  structures,  is  located 
upon'  a  blutf  called  Mt.  Oread  in  the  S.  W,  part  of  the  city.  The 
Haskell  Institute^  a  U.  S.  Indian  school,  with  over  300  pupils,  is 
located  here.  The  trade  of  Lawrence  is  very  large.  Thirty  miles  be- 
yond Lawrence  the  train  reaches  Topeka  {National^  Throop,  Copeland^ 
and  Fifth  Ave.)^  the  capital  of  Kansas,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
Kansas  River,  which  is  here  spanned  by  three  fine  iron  bridges.  The 
city  contains  31,007  inhabitants,  and  is  well  built.  The  Stafe-Honse, 
costing  $3,000,000,  is  partially  completed.  The  east  and  west  wings  of 
the  Capitol  are  finished,  and  the  rest  nearing  completion.  The  U.  S. 
Fedeixd  Building,  the  State  Asylum,  and  State  Reform  School,  City  Free 
Library,  Washhurne,  Bethany,  and  Methodist  colleges,  and  the  general 
offices  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  and  of  the  Chicago,  Rock 
Island  &  Pacific  Railways  are  among  the  principal  buildings.  Washhurne 
and  Bethany  are  the  principal  colleges,  and  there  are  excellent  public 
schools.  The  building  of  the  Free  Library  was  completed  during  1891 
at  a  cost  of  $40,000,  and  contains  11,000  volumes.  The  river  affords  a 
good  water-power,  and  the  surrounding  country  is  very  fertile  and  contains 
deposits  of  coal.  Topeka  is  provided  with  street-railroads,  electric  lights, 
gas,  and  all  modern  improvements.  St.  Mary^s  (91  miles)  is  a  pros- 
perous town  of  1,174  inhabitants,  and  the  seat  of  St.  Mary's  College. 
Wamego  (103  miles),  St.  George  (110  miles),  Manhattan  (118  miles),  and 
Ogdertsburg  (129  miles)  are  busy  and  rapidly-growing  towns.  At  Junction 
City  (138  miles)  connection  is  made  with  the  Xeosho  Branch  of  the 
Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  R.  R.  A  highly  productive  agricultural  region 
is  next  traversed,  with  numerous  thriving  villages  en  route.  Ellsworth 
(223  miles)  is  situated  on  the  Smoky  Hill  River  in  a  fine  stock-raising 
country.  Fort  Hays  (288  miles)  is  one  of  the  handsomest  military  posts 
in  the  West,  situated  on  a  commanding  elevation  overlooking  the  plains. 
Opposite,  upon  Big  Creek,  is  Hays  City,  once  the  center  of  the  buffalo 
range.  Fort  Wallace  (420  miles)  is  another  important  military  post, 
situated  near  the  W.  boundary-line  of  Kansas,  and  just  beyond  the  train 
enters  Colorado.  The  first  noteworthy  station  in  Colorado  is  Kit  Carson 
(487  miles),  named  after  the  great  "  Pathfinder,"  and  situated  on  Sand 
Creek,  about  20  miles  above  the  spot  where  Colonel  Chivington's  Indian 
massacre  took  place.  Between  Kit  Carson  and  Denver  there  are  only 
"  station  towns  "  {Hugo,  Godfrey,  and  Byers  being  the  most  important), 
but  the  country  along  the  line  is  rapidly  filling  up.  At  ^First  View  {412 
miles)  the  first  view  is  obtained  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  "  Towering 
against  the  western  sky,  more  than  150  miles  away,  is  Pike's  Peak,  stand- 
ing out  in  this  rarefied  atmosphere  with  a  clearness  which  deludes  the 


432  ST.    LOUIS   TO  DENYEE.  [Route  96. 

tourist,  if  it  be  his  first  experience,  into  a  belief  that  he  is  ah'eady  in  close 
proximity  to  the  mountains.  Henceforth  you  feel,  in  the  presence  of  the 
mighty  peaks  ^vhich  disclose  themselyes  one  after  another,  that  you  have 
entered  a  new  world — a  land  of  unapproachable  beauty  and  grandeur — 
and  you  reach  Denver,  having  before  you  an  unobstructed  panorama 
of  mountains,  snow-clad  peaks,  and  plain,  more  than  300  miles  in 
length." 

Kansas  City  or  Atchison  to  Denver  via  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe. 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  System  has  four  eastern  termini  at 
the  Missouri  River:  St.  Joseph,  Atchison,  Kansas  City,  and  Leaven- 
worth. Atchison  is  47  miles  ^.  of  Kansas  City;  Leavenwoi-th,  24 
miles  N.  of  the  same  point.  The  Leavenworth  branch  unites  with  the 
Kansas  City  line  13  miles  from  Kansas  City;  and  the  Atchison  branch 
unites  with  the  Kansas  City  line  at  Topeka,  66  miles  from  Kansas  City. 
Two  daily  express-trains,  with  palace  sleeping-cars  attached,  run  on  this 
route  from  Atchison  and  Kansas  City  daily  to  Denver.  St.  Joseph  is 
located  on  a  branch  20  miles  N.  of  Atchison,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Missouri  River,  and  is  also  the  terminus  of  the  branch  connecting  with 
the  main  hne  to  Chicago  at  Lexington  Junction.  Atchison  is  a  bus- 
tling city  of  13,963  inhabitants,  situated  beautifully  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Missouri  River.  It  is  quite  an  important  railroad  center,  and  it  is 
said  that  on  the  8  railroads  meeting  here  there  are  some  90  trains  arriv- 
ing and  departing  daily.  It  has  12  churches,  5  banks,  several  theatres 
and  public  halls,  and  a  large  manufacturing  industry  in  flour-mills, 
machine-shops,  engine-works,  breweries,  furniture  and  carriage  facto- 
ries, etc.  A  fine  iron  bridge  across  the  river  connects  the  city  with  the 
railroads  which  terminate  on  the  E.  bank. 

At  Topeka  (66  miles  from  Kansas  City,  and  50  miles  from  Atchi- 
son) the  branches  of  the  road  unite.  (See  page  431.)  Beyond  To- 
peka a  number  of  thriving  towns  are  passed,  of  which  Burlingame  (93 
miles),  Osage  City  (101  miles),  Emporia  (128  miles).  Strong  City  (148 
miles),  Florence  (1'72  miles),  Peahody  (184  miles),  Newton  (201  miles) 
[at  Newton  connection  is  made  with  branch  running  south  to  Wichita 
(228  miles),  Winfield  (267  miles),  Welliiigton  (269  miles),  and  Arkan- 
sas City  (279  miles),  running  directly  through  the  Oklahoma  country 
and  Texas  to  Galveston  (949  miles)],  and  Burrton  (230  miles),  are  the 
most  important.  At  Burrton,  which  is  the  terminus  of  the  St.  Louis  & 
San  Francisco  Railway,  the  latter  road  makes  connection  for  its  through 
transcontinental  route  from  St.  Louis  to  Califoi'nia  over  the  A.,  T.  &  S.  F. 
R.  R.  From  Burrton  to  Pueblo  (414  miles)  the  road  follows  the  fertile 
valley  of  the  Arkansas  River,  through  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  and 
stock-raising  regions  in  America.  The  principal  towns  on  this  portion 
of  the  route  are  HutcJiinson  (234  miles).  Sterling  (253  miles),  Great  Bend 
(285  miles).  Lamed  {2>01  miles),  Dodge  City(o68  miles).  Garden  City  {418 
miles),  Lamar  (518  miles),  and  La  -Junta  (571  miles).  La  Junta  is  the 
point  of  junction  with  the  main  line  extending  to  all  points  in  New  Mex- 
ico, Arizona,  and  California.  Just  before  reaching  La  Junta  the  first 
glimpse  is  caught  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  still  60  miles  distant.     Soon 


Route  .9(5.]  ST.    LOUIS    TO    DENVER.  433 

Pike's  Peak  looms  up  ;  then  the  Spanish  Peaks  reveal  their  snowy  crowns  ; 
and  finally,  as  Pueblo  is  neared,  the  splendid  mountain  panorama  gradu- 
ally unfolds  itself.  Pueblo  [Fifth  Avenue^  Grand,  St.  James)  is  one 
of  the  chief  cities  of  Southern  Colorado,  and  is  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  Arkansas  Eiver  and  Fontaine  Creek.  It  is  the  center  of  an 
agricultural,  petroleum,  and  mining  region,  does  a  large  trade,  and  has  a 
population  of  24,558.  It  has  large  smelting- works  and  Bessemer-steel 
works.  From  this  point  the  route  is  directly  north,  passing  Colorado 
Springs,  connecting  with  Colorado  Midland  Railway  for  Manitou,  Pike's 
Peak,  Cascade  Canon,  Leadville,  Glenwood  Springs,  and  othfr  famous 
Colorado  resorts,  whose  attractions  are  described  in  Route  97.  The 
points  of  interest  in  Southern  Colorado  which  can  be  visited  from 
Pueblo  are  described  in  Route  98. 

Kansas  City  to  Denver  via  Missowi  Pacific  Railway. 

Leaving  Kansas  City  toward  the  southwest,  it  runs  through  the 
midst  of  the  rich  farming  lands  of  Central  Kansas,  and  is  known  as 
the  "  Colorado  Short  Line,"  passing  through  Ottawa,  in  Eastern  Kansas, 
the  famous  resort  of  that  State,  and  the  seat  of  the  Chautauqua  Assem- 
bly ;  Salina,  in  Central  Kansas,  the  most  important  town  in  that  part 
of  the  State,  is  reached.  From  there  the  route  is  almost  directly  west, 
passing  up  the  famous  Arkansas  River  Valley  to  Pueblo  ;  and  thence 
northward,  passing  through  Colorado  Springs,  within  a  few  miles  of 
Manitou,  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  and  Pike's  Peak,  to  Denver. 

Denver. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  leading  hotels  are  the  Palace,  the  Windsor,  the  Albany, 
the  St.  James,  the  Markham,  the  Oxford,  and  the  American. 

Denver,  the  capital  and  largest  city  of  Colorado,  is  situated  on  the 
S.  bank  of  the  South  Platte  River,  at  the  junction  of  Cherry  Creek,  1 5 
miles  from  the  E.  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  about  500  miles 
W.  of  the  Missouri  River.  It  occupies  a  series  of  plateaus,  facing  the 
mountains,  and  commanding  a  grand  and  beautiful  view.  Through 
the  clear  mountain  atmosphere  may  be  seen  Pike's  and  Long's  Peaks, 
and  the  snow-capped  range  extending  more  than  200  miles,  its  rich 
purple  streaked  with  dazzling  white,  and  here  and  there  draped  in 
soft,  transparent  haze.  Its  trade  is  very  large,  and  23  railroads  radiate 
from  it,  which,  with  their  stage  connections,  afford  access  to  all  parts  of 
the  State.  There  are  numerous  hotels,  many  fine  commercial  buildings, 
a  U.  S.  Branch  Mint,  70  churches,  6  daily  newspapers,  22  school-houses, 
1 1  banks,  a  magnificent  Opera-House,  2  fine  theatres,  large  manufactories 
and  breweries,  and  many  elegant  private  residences.  The  Mint  is  em- 
ployed in  the  melting  and  assaying  of  bullion.  The  city  is  the  site  of 
Denver  University,  Baptist  College,  and  other  institutions  of  learning; 
and  among  other  prominent  buildings  are  the  Union  Depot,  City  Hall, 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  Court-House,  State  Capitol,  U.  S.  Custom-House, 
Denver  Club,  and  Post-Office.  The  great  works  of  the  Boston  and  Colo- 
rado  Smelting  and  Refining  Co.,  the  Globe  Smelting  and  Refining  Co., 
38 


434  COLORADO   AND   MANITOr   SPEINGS.       [Route  97, 

and  the  Omaha  and  Grant  Smelter,  are  worth  visiting.  The  population 
of  the  city  in  1880  was  35,630  within  the  city  limits,  and  according  to 
the  census  of  1890  it  was  106,713. 

97.  Colorado  and  Manitou  Springs. 

Colorado  Springs  (76  miles  from  Denver  via  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  R.  R.,  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.,  and  the  Colorado  Midland  R.  R.) 
is  a  flourishing  little  city,  situated  on  the  plains,  6,022  ft.  above  the  sea, 
with  a  fine  view  of  Pike's  Peak  and  the  mountains,  and  with  pleasantly- 
shaded  streets,  and  contains  all  modern  improvements,  many  fine  resi- 
dences, and  a  pretty  Opera-House.  (Hotels,  The  Antlers,  Alamo,  Alia 
Vista.)  Boarding-houses  and  furnished  houses  are  numerous,  amuse- 
ments plentiful,  and  the  rides  and  drives  charming.  In  summer  the 
days  are  warm  without  being  uncomfortable,  and  the  nights  always  cool. 
In  winter  there  is  almost  no  rain  or  snow,  and  little  dampness,  while  the 
sunshine  is  nearly  uninterrupted.  The  following  table  gives  the  dis- 
tances to  the  chief  sights :  To  Manitou  Springs,  5  miles ;  to  Garden  of 
the  Gods,  4  miles ;  to  Glen  Eyrie,  5  miles ;  to  Monument  Park,  8  miles ; 
to  Cheyenne  Canon,  5  miles;  and  to  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  16 
miles.     Guides,  horses,  etc.,  are  easily  procured. 

The  *  Manitou  Springs,  reached  by  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  R.  R. 
from  Denver  to  Colorado  Springs,  thence  by  branch  line  to  Manitou ; 
and  both  Colorado  and  Manitou  Springs  are  reached  directly  by  the 
main  line  of  the  Colorado  Midland  R.  R.  and  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R. 
Manitou  Springs  are  so  much  resorted  to  as  to  be  known  as  the  "Sara- 
toga of  the  West,"  and  are  the  center  of  excursions  in  the  district. 
They  are  situated  among  the  foot-hills  at  the  base  of  Pike's  Peak,  on 
the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Fontaine  Creek.  The  waters  contain  sul- 
phur, soda,  and  iron,  and  are  recommended  for  their  tonic  effects  in  all 
diseases  of  which  general  debility  is  a  feature.  Asthmatics  and  con- 
sumptives are  usually  benefitecl/by  a  residence  at  Manitou ;  the  former 
always.  There  are  several  hotels,  the  Ifansions,  Cliff  House,  Manitou 
House,  Barker  Hotel,  and  the  Iron  Springs  Hotel;  and  the  adjacent 
grounds  are  beautifully  laid  out.  Within  easy  walking-distance  of  the 
hotel  is  the  picturesque  and  romantic  Ute  Pass,  with  its  mammoth  hotel, 
club-house,  artificial  lake,  bath-house,  and  other  attractions,  through 
which  the  Colorado  Midland  R.  R.  runs  to  the  South  Park.  A  short 
distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Pass  are  the  Ute  Falls,  where  the  creek 
descends  in  an  unbroken  sheet  over  a  precipice  50  ft.  high.  The  road 
runs  close  to  the  edge  of  this  precipice,  while  on  the  other  hand  the 
rocks  tower  above  to  an  immense  height.  In  this  vicinity  is  the  pictur- 
esque Williams  Canon,  15  miles  long,  with  walls  of  rock  rising  600  or 
800  ft.  above  a  very  narrow  pass  below.  In  the  valley  of  the  pass  above 
the  canon  are  five  summer  resorts  on  the  line  of  the  Colorado  Midland 
Railway — Cascade  Canon,  Ute  Park,  Green  Mountain  Falls,  Woodland 
Park,  and  Manitou  Park — all  of  which  have  excellent  hotels  and  unsur- 
passed scenic  attractions,  6,  8,  9,  15,  and  21  miles  respectively  from 
Manitou.     The  summit  of  *  Pike's  Peak  is  reached  by  a  cog-wheel 


Route  97.'\      COLORADO    AXD   MANITOU    SPEINGS.  435 

railway  from  Manitou.  The  round  trip  (fare,  $5)  may  be  made  in  a 
few  iiours  on  any  day  during  the  season.  It  is  also  accessible  by  a  fine 
carriage-road  from  Cascade.  This  peak  stands  on  the  edge  of  the  great 
mountain-range,  and  the  view  from  its  summit  (14,147  ft.  high)  embraces 
many  thousand  square  miles  of  mountain  and  plain.  Here  is  a  station 
of  the  Weather-Signal  Bureau,  which  is  occupied  winter  and  summer. 

Colorado  Springs  and  Manitou  are  but  5  miles  apart,  and  are  now 
connected  by  means  of  an  electric  railway.  Leaving  the  Springs,  the 
road  runs  for  2  miles  over  a  plateau  that  suddenly  terminates  at  an  ele- 
vation of  several  hundred  feet  above  a  valley.  The  view  hence  is  mag- 
nificent ;  the  valley  is  inclosed  by  lofty  mountains,  among  which  Pike's 
Peak  towers  on  high,  and  in  front  are  Glen  Eyrie,  the  Garden  of  the 
Gods,  and  Manitou.  Descending  into  the  valley  you  first  reach  Glen 
Eyrie,  a  natural  park  with  immense  fantastically  shaped  rock-forma- 
tions. It  has  been  inclosed,  and  within  it  is  the  elegant  summer  villa 
built  by  General  Palmer,  and  the  natural  attractions  of  the  place  have 
been  enhanced  by  art.  Up  the  rugged  QueerCs  Canon  is  the  Devil's 
Punch-Bowl,  and  a  succession  of  picturesque  rapids  and  cascades.  A 
short  drive  brings  you  to  the  Gates  of  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  two 
piles  of  red  sandstone  300  ft.  high  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference, separated  only  enough  to  admit  the  passage  of  vehicles. 
The  Garden  comprises  a  tract  of  land  less  than  500  acres  in  extent, 
hemmed  in  by  mountains  on  the  W.  and  N.,  bordered  by  ravines  on  the 
S.,  and  by  old  red  sandstone  cliffs  on  the  E.,  which  shut  it  in  entirely 
from  the  plains.  Its  features  are  a  number  of  isolated  rocks  upheaved 
into  perpendicular  positions,  some  of  them  rising  to  a  height  of  350  ft. 
The  rocks  are  mainly  of  a  very  soft,  brilliantly-red  sandstone,  although 
several  ridges  of  cliffs  are  of  a  white  sandstone.  The  foot-hills  in  the 
vicinity  are,  many  of  them,  capped  by  similar  upheavals,  while  all  about 
the  main  cliff  in  the  valley  are  numerous  separate,  spire-like  columns. 

Cheyenne  Canon^  9  miles  from  Manitou  Springs,  is  a  sequestered 
mountain-gorge,  in  which  are  some  striking  rock-formations  and  pictur- 
esque cascades.  A  tortuous  trail  leads  from  the  mouth  of  the  caiion  in 
3  miles  to  the  first  fall,  which  is  30  ft.  high,  and  extremely  fine.  From 
the  ledge  above  the  fall  there  is  a  view  of  a  succession  of  falls,  6  in  all, 
rising  one  above  another  at  almost  regular  intervals,  the  remotest  and 
highest  being  several  miles  away.  On  the  side  of  Cheyenne  Mountain 
Helen  Hunt  Jackson  ("  H.  H.")  is  buried.  In  a  grove  of  trees  a  heap  of 
stones,  piled  up  by  visitors,  marks  her  tomb,  and  an  old  pine-tree — 
rudely  engraved  upon  its  bark  are  the  letters  "  H.  H.  " — is  the  living 
head-stone.  Each  visitor  places  a  stone  upon  the  heap,  and  with  each 
stone  placed  upon  the  heap  there  is  added  another  recollection  to  her  fame. 
*  Monument  Park,  perhaps  the  most  visited  spot  in  Colorado,  is 
9  miles  from  Manitou  Springs  and  \  mile  from  Edgerton^  a  station 
on  the  railway  above  the  Springs.  The  Park  is  very  striking.  It  is 
filled  with  fantastic  groups  of  eroded  sandstone  (6  to  50  ft.  high),  per- 
haps the  most  unique  in  the  Western  country,  where  there  are  so  many 
evidences  of  Nature's  curious  whims.  They  are,  for  the  most  part, 
ranged  along  the  low  hills  on  each  side  of  the  park. 


436  SOUTHERN  COLORADO.  [Route  98. 

98.  Southern  Colorado  and  New  Mexico. 

The  Denver  <&  Bio  Grande  Raihvay  runs  to  Ogden,  Utah,  where  it  connects 
with  the  Central  Pacific  R.  R.,  traversing  southern  and  southwestern  Colorado, 
and  extending  into  New  Mexico.  By  this  system,  over  its  line  west  from  Den- 
ver, the  traveler  passes  through  Pueblo,  Leadville,  Glenwood  Springs,  Grand 
Junction,  Salt  Lake  City,  and  Ogden,  and  is  able  to  see  from  the  car-windows 
the  wonderful  scenery  of  Pike's  Peak,  the  Royal  Gorge,  Canon  of  the  Eagle 
Run,  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross,  Canon  of  the  Grand  River,  the  Book  Cliffs,  Span- 
ish Forks  Canon,  Castle  Gate,  Utah  Lake,  and  Great  Salt  Lake.  Through-cars 
to  San  Francisco  may  be  taken  at  Denver.  It  comprises  over  twenty  branches, 
of  which  the  most  important  are  those  from  Denver  to  Pueblo  ;  Pueblo  to  Ogden. 
Utah  ;  Pueblo  to  Trinidad ;  Cuchara  to  Silverfon  ;  Pueblo  to  Leadville,  Aspen, 
and  Glenwood  Sinings ;  Antonita  to  Santa  Fe.  Distances :  Denver  to  Monu- 
ment, 56  miles  ;  to  Colorado  Springs,  75  ;  to  Pueblo,  120  ;  to  Ogden,  651 ;  to  Canon 
City,  161  ;  to  Leadville,  279  ;  to  Cuchara,  170 ;  to  El  Moro,  206  ;  to  Antonita, 
279 ;  to  Espanola,  370 ;  to  Durango,  453.  The  Uni07i  Pacific,  from  Denver  to 
Leadville  (151  miles),  is  the  shortest  line,  and  by  its  having  acquired  the  Denver, 
Texas,  and  Fort  Worth  R.  R.,  has  now  a  line  to  Fort  Worth,  Texas  (803  mUes 
from  Denver),  by  way  of  Colorado  Springs,  Pueblo,  and  Trinidad.  The  main 
line  of  the  Colorado  Midland  R.  R.  also  gives  connection  between  Leadville  and 
Aspen  and  Glenwood  Springs. 

The  section  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  E.  R.  between  Denver  and 
Pueblo  (120  miles)  has  been  described  in  Routes  9&  and  9*7.  From  Pueblo 
the  Leadville  Division  runs  (41  miles)  to  Canon  City  {McClure  Hotel\ 
near  which  is  Talbott  Hill^  where  Prof.  Othniel  C.  Marsh  has  excavated 
some  most  remarkable  fossils.  Two  miles  beyond  Canon  the  railway 
enters  the  *  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas,  where  the  Arkansas 
River  cuts  its  way  for  8  miles  thi"ough  walls  of  granite,  in  some  places 
3,000  ft.  in  height.  Through  the  Royal  Gorge  the  track  runs  for  200 
ft.  along  an  iron  bridge  suspended  over  the  river  by  steel  girders  mor- 
tised into  the  rock  on  either  side.  From  Salida  (215  miles  from  Denver ; 
Hotel  Monte  Cristo)  the  line  runs  W.  through  the  wonderful  Gunnison 
Country,  as  it  is  known  in  mining  parlance.  This  region,  which 
has  attracted  so  much  attention  on  account  of  its  remarkable  mining 
developments,  has  an  area  of  not  less  than  10,000  square  miles,  being 
110  miles  long  by  80  miles  wide.  The  most  important  part  of  the 
teiTitory  is  the  Elk  Mountain  Range  with  its  many  spurs  and  foot-hills, 
constituting  one  of  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains. Great  masses  of  granite  have  been  upheaved  through  the  sur- 
face in  giant  forms,  and  there  are  seven  peaks  in  the  range  I'ising  to 
a  height  of  14,000  ft.,  while  many  times  that  number  reach  the  height 
of  12,000  ft.  Vast  beds  of  coal  and  iron  and  innumerable  fissure  veins 
of  silver  are  scattered  through  this  region.  The  principal  streams  are 
the  Gunnison,  Uncompahgre,  Cochetopa,  Sumichel,  Taylor,  East,  Ohio, 
Eagle,  Rock,  Roaring  Fork,  and  Slate,  with  hundreds  of  smaller  tribu- 
taries, all  emptying  into  the  Colorado  River.  In  addition  to  its  great 
mineral  resources,  the  Gunnison  region  is  admirably  adapted  in  many 
parts  to  stock-raising,  as  there  are  large  areas  of  perennial  pasturage, 
where  bunch-grass,  Ijlue-grass,  and  other  varieties  afford  the  richest 
grazing.  The  most  important  towns  and  mining  camps  in  this  section 
are  Gunnison,  Rocky  Camp,  Pilkin  Gothic,  Washington  Gulch,  Irwin, 
Crested  Butte,  Hillerton,  Virginia  City,  Red  Cliff,  Willard,  Cochetopa, 


Route  5/?.]  SOUTHERN   COLOEADO.  437 

and  Aspen.  Gunnison  [Hotel  La  Veto),  the  most  important  place  on 
the  route  after  leaving  Salida  (564  miles  from  Denver  and  ^792  miles 
from  Kansas  City),  is  a  town  of  1,105  inhabitants.  It  has  a  court- 
house that  cost  $15,000,  five  school-houses,  and  a  bank  represent- 
ing $10,000,000  capital.  It  is  the  great  outfitting  center  of  the  re- 
gion. Here  is  the  connection  with  the  Crested  Butte  Branch  for  the 
silver-mmes  and  coal-fields  of  the  Elk  Mountains  and  Crested  Butte 
regions ;  also  for  those  of  Irwin,  and  Gothic.  Five  miles  from  South 
Arkansas  are  the  Poncha  Hot  Sprmffs,  noted  for  their  medicinal  prop- 
erties ;  near  Xathrop,  on  the  line  of  the  road,  are  the  Hey  wood  Hot 
Springs ;  and  near  Buena  Vista  are  the  Cottonwood  Hoi  Springs. 
Leadville  {Kitchen  Hotel,  Grand  Pacific),  10,200  ft,  above  the  sea, 
the  highest  town  in  the  world  (except  Cuzco),  is  in  the  heart  of  the 
silver  El  Dorado  discovered  in  18*78,  and  is  a  busy  city  of  11,212  in- 
habitants. It  is  the  most  celebrated  mining-camp  in  the  West.  Lead- 
ville  is  lighted  with  gas  and  electricity,  and  has  all  the  conveniences  of  a 
large  city.  It  is  reached  also  by  Colorado  Midland  R.  R.  from  Colorado 
Springs.  Fourteen  miles  from  Leadville  are  the  celebrated  Twin  Lakes, 
nearly  2  miles  above  the  sea-level.  The  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  line 
runs  from  Denver  to  Leadville,  Aspen,  and  Glenwood  Springs,  on  the 
Grand  River,  and  through  Grand  Junction  to  Ogden,  thence  via  South- 
ern Pacific  R.  R.  to  San  Francisco.  Glenwood  Springs  [Colorado  Hotel), 
also  reached  by  the  Colorado  Midland  R.  R.,  is  one  of  the  largest  hot 
and  mineral  springs  in  the  United  States,  and  much  money  has  been 
spent  in  improving  them. 

The  Denver  &  Silverton  Division  extends  S.  W.  from  Pueblo,  and  at 
the  distance  of  about  80  miles  crosses  the  Sangre  di  Cristo  range  by  the 
wonderful  *L(a  Veta  Pass,  at  an  altitude  of  9,486  ft.,  the  Mide-Shoe 
Curve  and  the  passage  around  the  point  of  Dump  Moniitain  being 
among  the  most  daring  feats  of  railway  engineering  ever  accomplished. 
The  view  of  Sierra  Blanca  (14,464  ft.  high),  flanked  by  the  serrated 
peaks  of  the  Sangre  di  Cristo  range,  as  seen  fi-om  Alamosa  (250  miles) 
and  for  70  miles  across  the  San  Luis  Park,  is  nowhere  surpassed. 
Thirty-five  miles  W.  of  Antoniia  (279  miles)  are  the  liOs  Pinos  Ca- 
non and  the  *Toitec  Gorge,  the  most  wonderful  scenic  attractions 
of  Colorado.  Here  for  a  distance  of  8  miles  the  railway  runs  just  below 
the  brow  of  a  precipitous  mountain-range  at  the  height  of  1,200  ft. 
above  the  stream,  following  the  irregular  contour  of  the  mountains, 
till  at  Phantom  Curve  it  comes  to  the  end  of  a  mountain-wall  that 
juts  into  the  canon,  narrowing  it  to  a  mere  gorge,  1,400  ft.  in  depth, 
with  the  wall  on  the  farther  side  rising  to  a  height  of  2,100  ft.  A  few 
rods  from  this  gorge  the  railway  suddenly  enters  a  tunnel  in  the  granite 
cliff,  and  600  ft.  farther  on  emerges  upon  a  trestle-bridge  overlooking 
the  precipice  that  extends  to  the  bottom  of  the  gorge.  From  the  en- 
trance to  the  tunnel,  in  fact  all  along  this  "  aerial  trip,"  an  extended 
landscape  of  mountain  and  valley  adds  to  the  grandeur  of  the  view. 
Durango  is  the  supply  depot  for  the  San  Juan  mining  district,  and  the 
road  continues  to  Silverton  (495  miles  fi'om  Denver),  in  the  heart  of 
the  region.     Thirty  miles  from  Durango  are  the  prehistoric  cliff-dwell- 


438  COLOEADO    CENTEAL    EAILAVAY.  [Route  99. 

ings  oil  the  Rio  Mancos.  At  Silverton,  counection  is  made  with  the  Sil- 
verton  Railway,  which  crosses  the  range  at  Red  Mountain,  12,000  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  approaches  within  a  few  hours'  stage- 
ride  of  Ouray. 

At  Antonita  the  JVew  Mexico  Div.  branches  off  to  the  S.,  and  runs 
in  91  miles  to  Mspanola,  connecting  with  the  Santa  Fe  Southern  R.  R. 
for  Santa  Fe,  which  is  only  23  miles  from  Espaiiola.  Near  Espanola 
are  six  ancient  pueblos,  inhabited  by  the  Pueblo  Indians,  whom  the 
Spaniards  found  there  only  forty-eight  years  after  the  discovery  of 
America;  and  in  the  neighboring  cliffs  are  numerous  cave-dwellings, 
prehistoric  in  their  origin. 

99.  Colorado  Oentrai  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R. 

This  road  extends  from  Denver  to  Fort  Collins  (Yl  miles),  and  from 
Denver  to  Graymount  (58  miles),  and  a  branch  from  Forks  Creek  to 
Central  City  (40  miles  from  Denver).  Both  routes  traverse  exceedingly 
picturesque  regions  and  afford  some  of  the  finest  scenery  to  be  enjoyed 
in  all  Colorado.  Golden  (16  miles  from  Denver)  is  situated  between 
two  picturesque  hills  and  the  North  and  South  Table  Mountains.  The 
State  School  of  Mines  is  in  Golden.  It  is  the  center  of  an  extensive 
mining-region,  and  is  the  point  of  departure  for  Bear  Greek  Canon. 

At  Golden  the  Central  City  branch  diverges  from  the  main  line, 
and  passing  up  *  Clear  Creek  Caiaoiij  follows  the  windings  of  the 
Creek  through  one  of  the  wildest  and  most  picturesque  localities  on  the 
continent.  Black  Hawk  (40  miles  from  Denver)  is  built  irregularly 
along  the  gulches  and  mountain-sides,  and  is  one  of  the  busiest  mining 
towns  in  the  State.  A  mile  beyond  Black  Hawk,  reached  by  a  zigzag 
course  up  the  mountain-side,  is  Central  City^  a  nourishing  mining  town 
of  2,480  inhabitants,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  mountain  slopes,  at  an 
elevation  of  8,300  ft.  There  are  a  number  of  quartz-mills  here,  and  the 
town  has  a  U.  S.  land  office  and  an  assay  office.  Being  in  the  center 
of  an  exceedingly  rich  gold-mining  region,  it  is  at  once  a  depot  of  supply 
and  a  point  of  shipment,  and  business  is  very  active.  James  Peak  may 
be  ascended  from  Central  City,  and  affords  a  wide-extended  view.  The 
Georgetown  Branch  diverges  at  Forks  Creek  (29  miles  from  Golden) 
and  runs  in  9  miles  to  Idaho  Springs,  a  quiet  little  village,  beauti- 
fully situated  in  a  lovely  valley  nestling  among  lofty  mountain-ranges 
at  an  elevation  of  7,543  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  air  is  remarkably  dry, 
pure,  and  invigorating,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  is  charming;  but 
the  chief  attraction  of  the  place  is  its  hot  and  cold  mineral  springs.  The 
waters  contain  soda,  magnesia,  iron,  and  lime,  have  fine  tonic  properties, 
and  are  considered  remedial  in  rheumatism  and  paralysis.  They  are 
used  chiefly  for  bathing,  and  there  are  extensive  bathing  establishments 
and  swimming-baths,  in  which  baths  may  be  had  at  the  natural  heat  of 
the  water  as  it  bubbles  from  the  ground,  or  at  a  lower  temperature. 
During  the  summer  the  little  town  is  thronged  with  tourists,  and  its 
sheltered  position  makes  it  a  desirable  resort  in  winter.  It  is  a  favorite 
gathering-place  for  excursion  parties,  and  full  outfits  of  carriages,  horses, 


Route  99.']         COLORADO    CEKTRAL    RAILWAY.  439 

and  guides  are  here  furnished  to  those  desiring  to  visit  Middle  Park, 
the.  Chicago  Lakes,  Green  Lake,  the  Old  Chief,  or  the  mining  regions. 
The  most  popular  excursions  are  to  Fall  River  (2-J  miles),  and  to  the 
lofty-lying  *  Chicago  Lakes  (15  miles  l)y  trail).  These  lakes  are 
the  most  picturesque  sheets  of  water  in  Colorado,  and  are  embosomed 
on  the  slopes  of  Mt.  Rosalie  at  a  height  of  11,995  ft.  above  the  sea. 
Georgetown  and  Idaho  Springs  are  equidistant  from  them,  and  though 
the  trail  by  which  they  are  approached  is  rough,  they  are  visited  by 
many  tourists  during  the  summer  months.  Twelve  miles  beyond  Idaho 
Springs  is  Georgetown,  an  important  mining  town  with  a  population 
of  1,92*7,  situated  on  S.  Clear  Creek,  at  an  altitude  of  8,514  ft.,  being 
5,000  ft.  higher  than  the  glacier- walled  valley  of  Chamounix,  and  but 
some  2,000  ft.  lower  than  the  elevation  of  Leadville.  It  is  inclosed  in  a 
perfect  amphitheatre  of  hills  and  mountains  and  cliffs,  is  laid  out  with 
broad  streets,  and  is  divided  by  the  creek  which  winds  through  it  in  a 
silvery  current.  There  are  many  romantic  spots  in  the  neighborhood. 
Just  above  the  town  is  the  DeviVs  Gate^  a  profound  chasm  through 
which  a  branch  of  Clear  Creek  foams  and  leaps.  About  2|-  miles 
distant  is  Green  LaJce^  with  clear  waters  of  a  bright  green  color  pro- 
duced by  a  coppery  sediment  on  the  rocks  at  the  bottom.  From  George- 
town the  railroad  passes  the  "  loop,"  where  it  crosses  its  own  track  on 
a  high  bridge,  and  reaches  *  Graymount  (elevation  9,500  ft.),  at  the 
foot  of  Gray's  Peak  (elevation  14,251  ft.).  Here  horses  and  guides  can 
be  obtained  for  an  ascent,  which  can  be  made  by  ladies  with  difficulty. 
A  favorite  excursion  from  Grayh  Peak  Hotel  is  to  ascend  and  witness 
the  sun  rise  over  this  mountainous  region. 


The  Colorado  Central  Broad  Branch  runs  N.  W.  from  Golden,  and  in 
24  miles  reaches  Boulder^  a  mining  town  whose  proximity  to  the  famous 
*  Boulder  Caiaon  makes  it  interesting  to  tourists.  A  wagon-road 
leads  up  the  canon,  which  is  a  stupendous  mountain-gorge,  17  miles 
long,  with  walls  of  solid  rock  that  rise  precipitously  to  a  height  of 
3,000  ft.  in  many  places.  A  brawling  stream  rushes  down  the  center 
of  the  ravine,  broken  in  its  course  by  clumsy-looking  rocks  and  the 
fallen  trunks  of  trees  that  have  been  wrenched  from  the  sparse  soil  and 
moss  in  the  crevices.  About  8  miles  from  Boulder  are  the  Falls  of 
Boulder  Creek,  and  at  the  head  of  the  caiion  is  a  mining  settlement. 
Longrnont  (13  miles  beyond  Boulder)  is  the  starting-point  for  a  delight- 
ful excursion  through  the  lovely  Estes  Park  to  the  summit  of  Long's 
Peak  (36  miles).  Estes  Park  affords  some  beautiful  views  and  excellent 
trout-fishing.  Long's  Peak  is  14,088  ft.  high,  and  affords  one  of  the 
grandest  views  to  be  obtained  in  Colorado.  The  ascent  is  tedious,  but 
not  difficult. 

The  Denver  Pacific  Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  E.  B.  runs  from  Denver 
to  Cheyenne,  and  there  connecting  with  the  main  line  of  the  same  road  for  all 
points  west.  The  distance  by  this  route  is  107  miles,  and  the  country  traversed 
is  for  the  most  part  a  vast  level  plain  covered  only  with  the  short  gray  buifalo 
grass.  The  road  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  principal  range  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  20  to  30  miles  from  their  E.  base.    The  only  noteworthy  town 


440  THE   GREAT   NATURAL   PARKS.         [Houte  100. 

en  rovte  is  Greeley  (51  miles  from  Denver),  which  is  a  flourishing  place 
of  2,395  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Cache  la  Poudre  River,  and 
named  after  the  founder  of  the  N.  Y.  Tribvne.  It  is  watered  by  an  excellent 
system  of  irrigation,  and  is  well  wooded.  No  intoxicating  liquors  are  sold  within 
its  limits. 

100.  The  Great  Katural  Parks. 

The  surface  of  Colorado  is  generally  mountainous,  but  in  the  E.  and 
N.  W.  portions  are  elevated  plains,  and  the  spurs  or  branches  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  inclose  large  fertile  valleys.  These  valleys  are  known 
as  the  North  Park,  Middle  Park,  South  Park,  and  San  Luis  Park,  and 
are  perhaps  the  most  characteristic  feature  of  Colorado.  North  Park, 
lying  in  the  extreme  northern  part  of  the  State,  has  been  less  explored 
and  settled  than  the  rest,  owing  to  its  remote  situation  and  colder  climate. 
It  offers,  for  these  reasons,  the  greatest  attractions  for  the  sportsman 
and  adventurer.  The  park  embraces  an  area  of  about  2,500  square 
miles,  and  has  an  elevation  of  about  9,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Recent 
discoveries  of  gold  and  silver  are  attracting  attention.  It  is  best  reached 
by  stage  from  Fort  Collins  on  the  Colorado  Central  Div.  of  the  Union 
Pacific  system  to  Mason  City  (80  miles)  and  Tyner  (125  miles). 

Middle  Park  lies  directly  S.  of  Noi-th  Park,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  one  of  the  cross-chains  of  the  great  mountain  labyrinth.  The 
snow-range,  or  continental  divide,  sweeps  around  on  its  E.  side,  and  it 
is  completely  encircled  by  majestic  mountains.  Long's  Peak,  Gray's 
Peak,  and  Mount  Lincoln,  from  13,000  to  14,500  ft.  high,  stand  senti- 
nels around  it.  It  embraces  an  area  of  about  3,000  square  miles,  ex- 
tending about  65  miles  N.  and  S.  and  45  miles  E.  and  W.,  and  is  about 
7,500  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  is  drained  by  Blue  River  and  the  head- 
waters of  Grand  River,  flowing  westward  to  the  Colorado.  The  portions 
of  the  park  not  covered  by  forest  expand  into  broad,  open  meadows,  the 
grasses  of  which  are  interspersed  with  wild-flowers  of  every  hue.  There 
is  game  in  abundance,  including  deer,  mountain-sheep,  elk,  bears,  and 
antelopes,  and  the  waters  teem  with  fish.  The  climate,  notwithstanding 
the  great  elevation,  is  remarkably  mild  and  equable,  with  cool  nights  in 
summer  and  warm  days  in  winter.  No  one,  of  course,  should  attempt 
to  winter  here  who  can  not  safely  be  cut  off  from  many  of  the  comforts 
and  conveniences  of  life ;  but  those  who  are  able  and  willing  to  "  rough 
it "  will  hardly  find  a  place  where  they  can  do  so  under  more  favorable 
conditions.  The  usual  objective  point  of  tourists  who  go  to  the  Middle 
Park  is  the  Hot  Sulphur  Springs,  which  may  be  reached  from 
Georgetown  by  the  Berthoud  Pass  (45  miles) ;  from  Central  City  by  the 
James's  Peak  trail  (60  miles) ;  and  from  South  Boulder.  The  Colorado 
Company's  fine  stages  leave  the  Barton  House,  Georgetown,  every  other 
day  for  the  Springs.  A  pleasant  way  of  making  the  journey  is  on 
horseback  via  the  first-mentioned  route.  The  Springs  are  situated  on  a 
tributary  of  Grand  River,  about  12  miles  from  the  S.  boundary  of  the 
park.  The  waters  are  used  chiefly  in  the  form  of  baths,  and  have  been 
found  highly  beneficial  in  cases  of  rheumatism,  neuralgia,  chronic  dis- 
eases of  the  skin,  and  general  debility.  The  accommodations  for  invalids 
are  not  first-rate  as  yet,  but  sufficient,  perhaps,  for  those  who  ought  to 


Boilte  100.]        THE    GREAT   NATUEAL    PARKS.  441 

venture  upon  the  Journey  thither  over  the  mountains.  A  small  town  is 
gradually  growing  up  in  the  vicinity.  One  of  the  pleasantest  excursions 
in  Middle  Park  is  up  the  valley,  27  miles  from  the  Springs,  by  a  good 
road  to  Grand  Lake.,  the  source  of  the  main  fork  of  Grand  River.  The 
lake  nestles  close  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  precipitous  cliffs  hang- 
frowning  over  its  waters  on  three  sides,  tall  pines  come  almost  down  to 
the  white  sand-beach,  and  its  translucent  depths  are  thronged  with  trout 
and  other  fish. 

South  Park,  the  best  known  and  most  beautiful  of  all  the  parks, 
lies  next  below  Middle  Park,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  branch  of 
the  Park  range.  It  is  60  miles  long  and  30  wide,  with  an  area  of  about 
2,200  square  miles,  and,  like  the  Middle  Park,  is  surrounded  on  all  sides 
by  gigantic  ranges  of  mountains,  whose  culminating  crests  tower  above 
the  region  of  perpetual  snow.  One  of  the  most  noted  mountains  is 
the  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross,  which  can  be  seen  from  Robinson's 
Station,  a  few  miles  from  Leadville.  It  is  one  of  Colorado's  wonders, 
and  is  14,176  ft.  high.  The  maximum  elevation  of  the  park  above 
the  sea  is  10,000  ft.,  while  the  average  elevation  is  about  9,000  ft., 
and  nearly  all  the  land  which  it  contains  is  well  adapted  to  agricult- 
ure. The  streams,  which  are  supplied  by  melting  snows  from  the  sur- 
rounding mountains,  are  tributaries  of  the  South  Platte,  and  flow  E. 
through  the  park  to  the  plains.  The  climate  of  the  South  Park  is  milder 
than  that  of  either  North  or  Middle  Park,  and  its  greater  accessibility 
gives  it  peculiar  advantages  for  such  tourists  and  invalids  as  can  not 
endure  much  fatigue.  Fairplay  is  the  chief  town  of  the  region,  and  a 
good  center  for  excursions.  The  scenery  afforded  by  any  or  all  of  these 
routes  is  of  incomparable  grandeur  and  beauty,  especially  at  the  canon 
of  the  Platte  and  Kenosha  Summit.  The  visitor  to  Fairplay  in  summer 
should  not  fail  to  ascend  *  Mount  Lincoln,  which  is  one  of  the  high- 
est of  the  Colorado  peaks  (14,296  ft.),  and  affords  a  view  that  Prof. 
Josiah  D.  Whitney  declares  to  be  unequaled  by  any  in  Switzerland  for 
its  reach  or  the  magnificence  of  the  included  heights.  The  ascent  may 
be  made  nearly  all  the  way  by  wagon  or  carriage,  and  presents  no  diffi- 
culty. Another  pleasant  excursion  from  Fairplay  is  to  the  beautiful 
Tvjin  Lakes  (35  miles).  The  South  Park  Div.  of  Union  Pacific  System 
runs  from  Denver  S.  W.  through  South  Park  to  Leadville  (see  Route 
98),  and  the  Colorado  Midland  R.  R.  traverses  it  from  E.  to  W  ,  by 
way  of  Colorado  Springs,  taking  in  Florrisant,  Lidderdale,  Spinney, 
and  in  its  course  touching  on  the  Hartsel  Hot  Springs  in  the  S.  W. 
portion. 

San  liUis  Park  is  larger  than  the  other  three  combined,  embracing 
an  area  of  nearly  18,000  square  miles — about  twice  the  size  of  New 
Hampshire.  It  lies  S.  of  South  Park,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
main  range,  which  forins  its  N.  and  E.  boundary,  while  its  W.  boundary 
is  formed  by  the  Sierra  San  Juan.  It  is  watered  by  35  streams  descend- 
ing from  the  encircling  snow-crests.  Nineteen  of  these  streams  flow 
into  San  Luis  Lake.,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  near  the  center  of  the 
parks,  and  the  others  discharge  their  waters  into  the  Rio  del  Norte,  in 
its  course  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.     On  the  flanks  of  the  great  mountain. 


442  KANSAS    CITY    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.      [Route   101. 

dense  forests  of  pine,  spruce,  fir,  aspen,  hemlock,  oak,  cedar,  and  pinon 
alternate  with  hroad,  natural  meadows,  producing  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
nutritious  grasses,  upon  which  cattle  subsist  throughout  the  year  with- 
out any  other  food,  and  requiring  no  shelter.  The  highest  elevation  in 
the  park  does  not  exceed  7,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  this,  together 
with  its  southern  and  sheltered  location,  gives  it  a  wonderfully  mild, 
genial,  and  equable  climate.  Thermal  springs  abound  here,  as  in  other 
parts  of  Colorado,  generally  charged  with  medicinal  properties.  The 
Denver  &  Silverton  Branch  of  the  Denver  &  Kio  Grande  R.  R.  (see 
Route  98)  is  rendering  this  vast  and  attractive  region  more  accessible. 

101.  Kansas  City  to  San  Francisco  via  Atchison,  Topeka 
&  Santa  F6  E.  R. 

The  great  system  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  now  has  two 
routes  to  San  Francisco  and  the  Pacific  coast,  and  also  a  route  to  the  city  of 
Mexico.  All  these  routes  connecting  with  the  principal  routes  from  New  York 
and  other  Eastern  cities  have  their  point  of  departure  from  Chicago,  St.  Louis, 
and  Kansas  City.    These  routes  we  shall  now  successively  describe. 

a.  Via  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Short  L'me. 

This  route  consists  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  to  Albu- 
querque, N.  M.  (918  m.) ;  thence  of  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  R.  R.  to  Mojave 
(1,736  m.) ;  thence  of  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  San  Francisco  (2,118  m.). 
The  principal  stations  on  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  as  far  as  La 
Junta,  Col.  (571  m.),  have  already  been  described  (see  Route  96).  After  leaving 
La  Junta,  the  most  important  stations  are  Trinidad  (652  m.),  Las  Vegas  (786  m.), 
Lamy  (851  m. ;  junction  for  Santa  Fe),  and  Albuquerque  (918  m.).  The  Atlantic 
&  Pacific  R.  R.  junction  is  17  m.  S.,  and  thence  the  notable  stations  are  Win- 
gate  (1,064  m.),  Manuelito  (1,092  m.),  Holbrook  (1,171  m.),  Winslow  (1,204  m.), 
Ash  Fork  (1.319  m.).  Peach  Springs  (1,384  m.).  The  Needles  (1,493  m.),  Daggett 
(1,653  m.),  Mojave  (1,736  m.),  Caliente  (1,768  m.),  Tulare  (1,874  m.),  Madera  (1,930 
m.),  Merced  (1,963  m.),  Lathrop  (2,071  m.),  San  Francisco  (2,115  m.).  Complete 
palace  and  sleeping  car  service  with  dining-cars  is  used  on  this  line,  and  there 
are  excellent  meal  stations  along  the  route  under  the  general  supervision  of  an 
oflScial  of  the  company.  This  service  runs  through  from  Chicago  and  St.  Louis 
to  San  Francisco  without  change. 

The  route  from  Kansas  City  to  La  Junta  (571  miles)  has  already  been 
described  in  Route  96.  The  scenery  in  Kansas,  Colorado,  New  Mexico, 
and  Arizona  is  very  picturesque,  and  the  line  is  built  through  a  country 
where  there  are  no  extremes  of  heat  or  cold.  The  Atchison,  Topeka  & 
Santa  Fe  R.  R.  at  this  point  bends  southward,  skirting  the  Raton  Range 
of  the  Rocky  Mts.  on  the  W.,  and  affording  a  succession  of  beautiful 
mountain  landscapes  to  the  eye  of  the  traveler.  Trinidad  (652  miles), 
lying  at  the  foot  of  the  Raton  Mts.,  has  a  population  of  5,523,  and 
was  one  of  the  most  important  points  between  Santa  Fe  and  the  Mis- 
souri River  in  the  days  of  the  "  Old  Santa  Fe  Trail."  This,  the  first 
typical  Mexican  town  met'with  on  the  middle  route  across  the  continent, 
and  with  its  mixture  of  wooden,  brick,  and  adobe  houses,  is  always  an 
object  of  interest  to  travelers  on  first  journeys  to  this  region.  Trini- 
dad has  become  a  modern  city  now,  since  the  railroad  arrived,  and  has 
water-works,  gas,  daily  papers,  graded  schools,  banks,  etc.  It  is  the 
center  of  a  large  minino;  business,  and  wool  and  cattle  trade.     At  Mor- 


Route  101.]     KANSAS    CITY    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.  443 

le'/  (662  miles)  the  road  climbs  the  mountains  thi^ough  Rato7i  Pass^  on 
a  grade  185  feet  to  the  mile.  The  ascent  is  attended  with  many  charm- 
ing "Aiews,"  not  in  the  least  marred  by  the  name  which  attaches  to  the 
pass — Devil's  Canon.  The  view  afforded  from  the  pass  of  the  Spanish 
Peaks  as  they  rise  across  the  plains,  nearly  100  miles  to  the  north, 
affords  an  excellent  illustration  of  the  vast  reach  of  vision  which  is  pos- 
sible in  these  mountain-heights.  Five  miles  farther  up  the  mountain, 
at  an  elevation  of  7,688  feet,  the  train  suddenly  plunges  into  a  tunnel 
nearly  half  a  mile  long,  running  under  the  crest  of  the  Raton  Range. 
The  light  of  Colorado  quickly  vanishes,  and  that  which  flashes  upon  us 
again  in  a  few  minutes  is  the  warm  brightness  of  sunny  New  Mexico, 
for  we  have  crossed  the  border  while  coming  through  the  tunnel.  Las 
Vegas  (786  miles)  is  situated  on  a  branch  of  the  Pecos  River,  is  a  place 
of  2,385  population,  and  is  the  trade-center  of  the  great  sheep-ranches 
of  Xew  Mexico.  About  5,000,000  lbs.  of  wool  are  annually  exported 
from  this  place.  The  Territorial  Insane  Asylum  is  located  here,  A 
short  branch  (6  miles)  connects  the  town  with  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs. 

Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  is  rapidly  becoming  a  rival  of  the  celebrated 
Arkansas  Hot  Springs.  This  attractive  sanitarium  is  at  the  month  of  a  beauti- 
ful canon  which  opens  on  the  plains  6  m.  above  Las  Vegas,  and  from  that 
point  winds  romantically  into  the  Spanish  Range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  springs,  some  forty  in  number,  varying  from  very  warm  to  entirely  cold, 
have  an  altitude  of  6,767  ft.  The  character  of  the  waters  closely  resembles  that 
of  the  Arkansas  Hot  Springs.  The  excellence  of  the  waters  for  a  wide  range  of 
diseases,  and  the  delightful  climate,  averaging  41°  during  the  winter  months, 
have  combined  to  make  this  a  favorite  resort.  There  are  ample  hotel  accom- 
modations, and  the  railroad  company  has  erected  the  Hotel  Montezuma.  Rates, 
$2  to  ^3  per  day,  and  $12  upward  per  week. 

At  Laniy  (851  miles),  named  alter  the  first  Archbishop  of  Santa  Fe, 
the  Santa  Fe  Branch  diverges  in  18  miles  to  the  ancient  and  interest- 
ing city  of  *  Santa  Fe  {Palace  Hotel),  which  has  an  altitude  of  7,019 
ft.  This  place,  the  oldest  town  in  the  United  States,  has  a  population 
of  6,185  inhabitants.  Among  the  important  buildings  are  the  Terri- 
torial Capitol.^  a  tasteful  edifice  of  cream-colored  sandstone  ;  the  U.  S. 
Building,  used  for  the  U.  S.  courts  and  other  purposes  ;  and  the  County 
Court-House.  There  are  several  schools,  including  three  for  the  In- 
dians, one  of  which  is  called  Ramona  School  as  a  memorial  of  "  H.  H." ; 
also  St.  MichaeVs  College,  an  institution  conducted  by  the  Christian 
Brothers.  St.  Vincenfs  Hospital  is  a  large  building  near  the  Cathedral, 
and  is  partly  supported  by  the  Territory.  Santa  Fe  is  the  seat  of  a 
Roman  Catholic  archiepiscopal  diocese,  and  contains  the  Cathedral  of 
San  Francisco,  the  largest  and  most  expensive  church  in  the  Territory. 
It  is  of  light  brown-stone,  with  two  towers  in  front,  and  is  built  around 
the  old  cathedral,  parts  of  which  date  back  to  1622.  Adjoining  the 
church  is  a  museum  containing  numerous  paintings  brought  to  this 
country  by  the  early  Spanish  fathers,  as  well  as  many  interesting  his- 
torical manuscripts,  several  of  which  are  very  old.  The  Chapel  of  San 
Miguel  is  the  oldest  church  in  use  in  New  Mexico.  It  was  originally 
built  between  the  years  1638  and  1680,  but  was  destroyed  by  the  In- 
dians, and  restored  about  1710.  Across  a  narrow  street  stands  the 
"  old  home,"  the  only  remnant  of  the  Pueblo  town  which  preceded  the 


444  KANSAS    CITY   TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.      [Route  101. 

Spanish  city.  The  mining-  interests  which  center  here  are  large  and  of 
growing  value,  and  the  increasing  trade  will  be  likely  to  make  Santa  Fe 
one  of  the  most  important  cities  of  the  great  Southwest.  But  its  inter- 
est now  is  rather  historical  than  actual.  Among  the  relics  of  its  past 
greatness  is  the  ancient  Governor''s  Palace^  extending  along  one  whole 
side  of  the  Plaza^  a  long,  low  structure  built  of  adobe.  At  one  end  of 
the  Palace  are  the  collections  of  the  Historical  Society,  which  are  well 
worth  seeing.  It  was  erected  in  1598,  and  of  its  history  Governor 
Prince  wrote  in  1890  :  "  Without  disparaging  the  importance  of  any  of 
the  cherished  historical  localities  of  the  East,  it  may  be  truthfully  said 
that  this  ancient  palace  surpasses  in  historic  interest  and  value  any 
other  place  or  object  in  the  United  States.  It  antedates  the  settlement 
of  Jamestown  by  9  years,  and  that  of  Plymouth  by  22,  and  has  stood 
during  the  292  years  since  its  erection,  not  as  a  cold  rock  or  monument, 
with  no  claim  upon  the  interest  of  humanity  except  the  bare  fact  of  its 
continued  existence,  but  as  the  living  center  of  everything  of  historic 
importance  in  the  Southwest.  Through  all  that  long  period,  whether 
under  Spanish,  Pueblo,  Mexican,  or  American  control,  it  has  been  the 
seat  of  power  and  authority.  Whether  the  ruler  was  called  viceroy, 
captain-general,  political  chief,  department  commander,  or  governor, 
and  whether  he  presided  over  a  kingdom,  a  province,  a  department,  or 
a  Territory,  this  has  been  his  official  residence.  From  here  On  ate  started 
in  1599  on  his  adventurous  expedition  to  the  Eastern  plains;  here,  7 
years  later,  800  Indians  came  from  far-off  Quivira  to  ask  aid  in  their 
war  with  the  Axtaos ;  from  here,  in  1618,  Yincente  de  Salivar  set  forth 
to  the  Moqui  country,  only  to  be  turned  back  by  rumors  of  the  giants 
to  be  encountered;  and  from  here  Penalosa  and  his  brilliant  troop 
started,  on  the  6th  of  March,  1662,  on  their  marvelous  expedition  to 
the  Missouri;  in  one  of  its  strong-room.s  the  commissary-general  of  the 
Inquisition  was  imprisoned  a  few  years  later  by  the  same  Penalosa ; 
within  its  walls,  fortified  as  for  a  siege,  the  bravest  of  the  Spaniards 
were  massed  in  the  revolution  of  1680;  here,  on  the  19th  of  August 
of  that  year,  was  given  the  order  to  execute  47  Pueblo  prisoners  in  the 
plaza  which  faces  the  building;  here,  but  a  day  later,  was  the  sad  war- 
council  held  which  determined  on  the  evacuation  of  the  city;  here  was 
the  scene  of  triumph  of  the  Pueblo  chieftains  as  they  ordered  the  de- 
struction of  the  Spanish  archives  and  the  church  ornaments  in  one 
grand  conflagration;  here  De  Vargas,  on  September  14,  1692,  after 
the  11  hours'  combat  of  the  preceding  day,  gave  thanks  to  the  Virgin 
Mary,  to  whose  aid  he  attributed  his  triumphant  capture  of  the  city ; 
here,  more  than  a  century  later,  on  March  3,  1807,  Lieutenant  Pike 
was  brought  before  Governor  Alencaster  as  an  invader  of  Spanish  soil ; 
here,  in  1822,  the  Mexican  standard,  with  its  eagle  and  cactus,  was 
raised  in  token  that  New  Mexico  was  no  longer  a  dependency  of  Spain ; 
from  here,  on  the  6th  of  August,  1837,  Governor  Perez  started  to  sub- 
due the  insurrection  in  the  north,  only  to  return  two  days  later  and  to 
meet  his  death  on  the  9th,  near  Agua  Fria ;  here,  on  the  succeeding 
day,  Jose  Gonzales,  a  Pueblo  Indian  of  Taos,  was  installed  as  Governor 
of  New  Mexico,  soon  after  to  be  executed  by  order  of  Armijo;  here,  in 


Route  10 1.}      KANSAS    CITY   TO    SAN   FEANCISCO.  445 

the  principal  reception-room,  on  August  12,  1846,  Captain  Cooke,  the 
American  envoy,  was  received  by  Governor  Armijo  and  sent  back  with 
a  message  of  defiance ;  and  here,  five  days  later.  General  Kearny  for- 
mally took  possession  of  the  city,  and  slept,  after  his  long  and  weary 
march,  on  the  carpeted  earthen  floor  of  the  palace.  From  every  point 
of  view  it  is  the  most  important  historical  building  in  the  country,  and 
its  ultimate  use  should  be  as  the  home  of  the  wonderfully  varied  collec- 
tions of  antiquities  which  New  Mexico  will  furnish.  Coming  down  to 
more  modern  times,  it  may  be  added  that  here  General  Lew.  Wallace 
wrote  'Ben-Hur,'  while  Governor,  in  1879  and  1880."  In  the  plaza 
stands  the  Soldiers'  Monument^  built  in  honor  of  those  who  fell  in  the 
Indian  and  the  civil  wars,  and  on  the  N.  E.  outskirts  of  the  city  stand 
the  remains  of  the  military  post  of  Fort  Marcy.  It  overlooks  the  city 
and  the  surrounding  country  for  a  distance  of  over  90  miles.  A  visit 
to  the  makers  of  the  Mexican  silver  filigree-work  is  worth  making.  It 
is  a  characteristic  industry  of  this  place. 

Santa  Fe  is  mostly  buift  of  adobe,  and  its  sti^eets  present  a  picturesque 
commingling  of  Americans,  Mexicans,  and  Indians.  The  Cerillos  Mines, 
whence  are  derived  the  ancient  turquoises,  are  within  20  miles  of  Santa 
Fe.  The  points  in  New  Mexico  of  most  interest  to  the  antiquarian  or 
tourist  are  the  Pueblo  Indian  villages,  as  here  is  to  be  seen  the  aborigi- 
nal civilization  as  found  by  Cortes  and  Coronado,  absolutely  unchanged 
through  the  centuries  that  have  passed.  These  Indians  are  called 
"  Pueblos "  on  account  of  their  living  in  permanent  towns  (a  ptiehlo 
being  a  town),  and,  when  first  discovered,  all  of  their  houses  were  built 
of  stone,  and  were  usually  large  community  houses,  accommodating 
from  100  to  400  persons,  built  in  terrace  form,  and  entered  only  by 
means  of  ladders.  The  present  towns  are  19  in  number,  extending 
down  the  Rio  Grande  Valley  from  Taos,  in  the  north,  to  Isleta,  a  short 
distance  south  of  Albuquerque,  and  including  Laguna,  Acoraa,  and 
Zuni  to  the  west.  Laguna  is  on  the  line  of  the  railroad  and  easily 
visited.  Acoma  is  built  on  a  high,  flat  hill  {mesa),  which  was  impreg- 
nable before  cannon  were  introduced.  Taos  is  composed  of  two  great 
buildings  five  stories  high  ;  and  its  festival,  on  September  30th,  draws 
thousands  of  visitors.  Tesuque  is  near  Santa  Fe,  and  consequently  the 
most  accessible  to  tourists.  The  Annual  Festivals  at  these  pueblos  are 
gorgeous  spectacles,  entirely  unique  in  character,  and  well  worth  a 
journey  from  the  Atlantic  to  attend.  The  principal  ones  are  at  Santo 
Domingo  (Wallace  Station),  August  4th ;  San  Juan,  June  25th ;  Taos, 
September  30th  ;  Santa  Clara,  August  12th,  etc. 

Resuming  our  journey  from  Lamy,  we  arrive  in  77  miles  at  Albu- 
querque {San  Felipe)  (918  miles),  a  town  of  3,785  population,  situated 
on  the  Rio  Grande  River,  at  an  elevation  of  some  5,000  ft.  above  the  sea. 
The  place  has  an  extensive  trade  in  wool  and  hides.  The  junction  with 
the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  R.  R.  is  13  miles  S.  of  this  point,  though  officially 
Albuquerque  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  road.  Lagnna,  66  miles  beyond 
Albuquerque,  is  a  Pueblo  Indian  village,  built  upon  a  rounded  elcA^ation 
of  rock,  from  the  foot  of  which  quite  an  extended  view  may  be  had  from 
the  train  of  the  clusters  of  little,  square,  flat-roofed  houses,  which  are  ar- 


446  KANSAS    CITY    TO    SAN   FKANCISCO.      [Eoute  101. 

ranged  irregularly  in  terraces,  without  much  regard  to  streets  or  alleys, 
and  apparently  without  any  special  place  of  entrance  or  approach.  Closer 
inspection  shows  that  all  the  houses  are  built  of  adobe,  with  very  thick 
walls,  and  that  the  interior  is  reached  by  the  aid  of  scaling-ladders, 
through  apertures  in  the  roof.  These  buildings  are,  perhaps  wrongly, 
called  houses ;  they  are  more  properly  rooms,  ari-anged  in  terraces  one 
above  the  other.  The  Pueblo  Indians  are  the  most  ancient  race  on  this 
continent,  and  are  law-abiding,  peaceable,  self-supporting  citizens.  As 
a  rule  they  are  fairly  good-looking,  especially  the  young  girls,  some  of 
whom  are  quite  pretty — even  the  older  members  of  the  tribe  are  not 
as  repulsive  as  the  average  Indian  is  pictured.  Their  habits  are  much 
the  same  as  those  of  all  other  dwellers  in  arid  lands.  They  depend  for 
their  subsistence  upon  the  sale  of  their  pottery  to  strangers,  and  to  scant 
cultivation  by  irrigation.  Some  of  the  younger  members  have  been 
educated  by  the  Government  at  the  Carlisle  School,  and  speak  English 
with  a  pleasing  accent.  They  have  returned  to  their  tribes,  dropped 
into  the  old  ways,  and  appear  to  be  content.  They  are  friendly  to  the 
tourist,  and  display  with  every  evidence  of  pride,  and  with  no  little 
ability  as  beginners,  their  fantastic  and  gaudily-colored  pieces  of  pot- 
tery. Some  of  the  designs,  though  rude  in  shape,  are  quite  artistic. 
Although  not  extremely  religious,  many  are  devout  Catholics,  and  not 
a  few  are  Protestants.  Their  church,  which  is  perhaps  two  centuries 
old,  is  an  interesting  feature  of  the  village.  It  is  quite  large,  and  has 
the  general  appearance  of  all  old  missions.  The  interior  decorations 
are  worthy  of  reproduction,  and,  on  the  whole,  are  above  the  average 
of  such  things.  The  floor  is  of  earth,  and  is  said  to  cover  the  remains 
of  many  of  the  celebrities  of  their  tribes.  The  interior  is  well  arranged 
and  scrupulously  clean.  The  road  runs  130  miles  W.  through  New 
Mexico,  through  a  region  full  of  fine  sheep  and  cattle  ranches,  inter- 
spersed with  mountainous  tracts,  till  it  reaches  at  the  station  known  as 
the  Continental  Divide  the  great  mother  ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mts. 
Many  parts  of  the  region  traversed  have  recently  opened  rich  mining 
developments.  Wingate  (1,064  miles)  is  a  busy  little  town,  3  miles  from 
which  is  Fort  Wingate.  From  this  point  stages  run  to  the  Indian  village 
of  Zuni,  45  miles  N.,  about  which  so  much  interest  has  been  aroused  by 
the  researches  of  Frank  H.  Gushing,  who  claims  to  have  found  among 
'  these  Indians  the  relics  of  a  high  and  mysterious  civiHzation.  Passing 
Manuelito  (1,092  miles),  where  a  stage-line  runs  to  Fort  Defiance,  the 
headquarters  of  the  Navajo  Agency,  Holhrook  (1,1  Yl  miles)  is  reached 
after  a  number  of  small  stations.  A  stage  runs  several  times  a  week  to 
the  Moqui  Indian  Village^  70  miles  away.  The  towns  of  these  Indians 
are  singularly  interesting  and  well  worth  a  visit.  They  are  generally 
built  on  an  eminence  commanding  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
so  situated  that  they  can  only  be  approached  through  a  narrow  defile. 
The  houses  are  2  or  3  stories  high,  built  of  mud  and  stone,  and  ranged  in 
the  form  of  hollow  squares.  Access  can  only  be  had  by  ladders  to  the 
second  stories,  the  first  being  built  solid  without  any  opening.  There 
are  seven  of  these  Moqui  Pueblos,  or  Dying  Cities,  as  they  have  been 
called  (of  which  Zuni  is  the  chief),  and  the  inhabitants,  by  their  skill  in 


Route  101.]      KANSAS    CITY   TO    SAN"   FRANCISCO.  447 

pottery,  weaving,  and  mural  decoration,  and  by  their  strange  religious 
rites,  have  deeply  excited  the  curiosity  of  archaeologists.  Among  a  suc- 
cession of  small  stations  Winsloic  (1,204  miles)  is  important  as  being 
the  diverging-point  for  stage-routes  and  supply -trains.  About  26  miles 
farther  on  we  reach  Canon  Diablo^  where  the  scenery  is  of  the  most 
somber  and  impressive  nature,  and  the  railroad  spans  the  mighty  chasm 
by  a  bridge  500  ft.  long  and  225  ft.  high.  Passing  Ash-Fork  (1,319 
miles)  and  a  number  of  small  stations,  we  reach  Flagstaff  (1,263 
miles),  to  which  the  tourist  will  look  with  greater  interest  than  to  any 
other  station  en  route^  as  it  is  the  point  of  departure  for  one  of  the 
greatest  wonders  of  nature  in  the  world,  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colo- 
rado. A  stage-route  of  70  miles  conveys  the  tourist  to  the  most  inter- 
esting portion  of  the  canon. 

The  *  Grand  Canon  of  tlie  Colorado  was  made  known  to  the  world 
by  the  adventurous  voyage  of  Major  John  W.  Powell  down  the  river.  The 
Colorado  River  is  formed  by  the  Grand  and  Green  Rivers,  which  unite  in 
Utah,  and  flows  southward  into  Arizona.  It  passes  through  a  succession  of 
extraordinary  canons,  remarlvable  in  themselves  ;  but  all  of  these  preliminary 
wonders  sink  into  insignificance  before  the  Grand  Canon,  which  is  more 
than  300  miles  long.  This  canon  opens  all  the  series  of  geological  strata 
do^vn  to  the  granite  foundation.  The  walls  are  from  3,000  to  7,000  ft.  in 
height.  The  plateau  adjacent  to  the  canon  is  said  to  be  about  7,000  ft.  above 
the  sea-level.  Major  Powell,  who  has  made  the  most  satisfactory  study  of  this 
great  wonder,  writes  as  follows  :  '"  To  a  person  studying  the  physical  geography 
of  this  country  without  a  knowledge  of  its  geology,  it  would  seem  A-ery  strange 
that  the  river  should  cut  through  the  mountains,  when  apparently  it  might  have 
passed  around  them  to  the  east  through  valleys,  for  there  are  such  along  the 
north  side  of  the  Uintahs,  extending  to  the  east,  where  the  mountains  are  de- 
graded to  hills.  Then  why  did  the  river  run  through  these  mountains  ?  The 
first  explanation  suggested  is,  that  it  followed  a  previously-formed  fissure 
through  the  range  ;  but  a  very  little  examination  will  show  that  this  is  unsatisfac- 
tory. Then  why  did  not  the  river  turn  around  this  obstruction,  rather  than  pass 
through  it  ?  The  answer  is,  that  the  river  had  the  right  of  way  ;  in  other  words, 
it  was  running  ere  the  mountains  were  formed  ;  not  before  the  rocks  of  which 
the  mountains  are  composed  were  deposited,  but  before  the  formations  were 
folded  so  as  to  make  a  mountain-range.  The  contracting  or  shrinking  of  the 
earth  causes  the  rocks  near  the  surface  to  wrinkle  or  fold,  and  such  a  fold  was 
started  athwart  the  course  of  the  river.  Had  it  been  suddenly  formed,  it  would 
have  been  an  obstruction  sufficient  to  turn  the  water  into  a  new  course  to  the 
east  beyond  the  extension  of  the  wrinkle,  but  the  emergence  of  the  fold  above 
the  general  siuface  of  the  country  was  little  or  no  faster  than  the  progress  of 
the  corrosion  of  the  channel.  We  may  say,  then,  that  the  river  did  not  cut  its 
way  down  through  the  mountains  from  a  height  of  many  thousand  feet  above 
its  present  site,  but  having  an  elevation  differing  but  little,  perhaps,  from  what 
it  is  now.  it  cleared  away  an  obstruction  by  cutting  a  canon,  and  the  walls  were 
thus  elevated  on  either  side.  The  river  preserved  its  level,  but  the  mountains 
were  lifted  up — as  the  saw  revolves  on  a  fixed  pivot  while  the  log  through  which 
it  cuts  is  moved  along.  .  .  .  The  upheaval  was  not  marked  by  a  great  con- 
vulsion, for  the  lifting  of  the  rocks  was  so  slow  that  the  rains  removed  the 
sandstones  almost  as  fast  as  they  came  up.  The  mountains  were  not  thrust  up 
as  peaks,  but  a  great  block  was  slowly  lifted  up,  and  from  this  the  mountain  was 
carved  by  the  clouds— patient  artists,  who  take  time  to  do  their  work.  Mount- 
ains are  often  spoken  of  as  forming  clouds  about  their  tops  :  the  clouds  have 
formed  the  mountains.  Lift  a  district  of  granite  or  marble  into  their  region,  and 
they  gather  about  and  hurl  their  storms  against  it.  beating  the  rocks  into  sand  ; 
and  then  they  carry  them  out  into  the  sea,  carving  canons,  gulches,  and  valleys, 
and  leaving  plateaus  and  mountains  embossed  on~the  surface." 

Thomas  Moran,  the  artist,  who  visited  the  Grand  Canon  shortly  after  Major 
Powell,  gives  us  the  following  interesting  description  :  "  Our  first  journey  was 
to  the  Toroweap  Valley.  By  following  do\vu  this  valley,  we  passed  through  the 


448  KANSAS   CITY   TO    SAN   FKANOISCO.      [Route  101. 

upper  line  of  cliffs  to  the  edge  of  a  chasm  cut  in  red  sandstone  and  vermilion- 
colored  limestone  or  marble,  2,800  feet  deep  and  about  1,000  feet  wide.  Creep- 
ing out  carefully  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  we  could  look  down  directly  on  the 
river,  15  times  as  far  awaj^  as  the  waters  of  Niagara  are  below  the  bridge.  Mr. 
Hillers,  who  passed  through  the  canon  with  Major  Powell,  was  with  us,  and  he 
informed  us  that  the  river  below  w\is  a  raging  torrent ;  yet  it  looked  from  the 
top  of  the  cliff  like  a  small,  smooth,  sluggish  river.  The  river,  looking  up  the 
cafion,  is  magnificent,  and  beyond  the  most  extravagant  conception  of  the  imagi- 
nation. In  the  foreground  lies  a  profound  gorge,  with  a  mile  or  two  of  the 
river  seen  in  its  deep  bed.  The  eye  looks  twenty  miles  or  more  through  what 
appears  like  a  narrow  valley  formed  by  the  upper  line  of  the  cliffs.  The  many- 
colored  rocks  in  which  the  valley  is  curved  project  into  it  in  vast  headlands 
2,000  feet  high.  \vi"ought  with  beautiful  but  gigantic  architectural  forms.  Within 
an  hour  of  the  time  of  sunset  the  effect  is  strange,  weird,  and  dazzling.  Every 
moment,  until  light  is  gone,  the  scene  shifts,  as  one  monumental  pile  passes 
into  shade,  and  another,  before  unobserved,  comes  into  view.  Our  next  visit 
was  to  the  Karbal  Plateau,  the  highest  plateau  through  which  the  river  cuts.  It 
was  only  after  much  hard  labor,  and  possibly  a  little  danger,  that  we  could 
reach  a  point  where  we  could  see  the  river,  which  we  did  from  the  edge  of 
Powell  Plateau,  a  small  plain  severed  from  the  mainland  by  a  precipitous  gorge 
2,000  feet  deep,  across  which  we  succeeded  in  making  a  passage.  Here  w^e  be- 
held one  of  the  most  awful  scenes  on  the  gulch.  While  on  the  highest  point 
of  the  plateau,  a  terrible  thunder-storm  burst  on  the  canon.  The  lightning 
flashed  from  crag  to  crag.  A  thousand  streams  gathered  on  the  surrounding 
plain,  and  dashed  down  into  the  depths  of  the  canon  in  waterfalls  many  times 
the  height  of  Niagai'a.  The  vast  chasm  which  we  saw  before  us,  stretching 
away  forty  miles  in  one  direction  and  twenty  miles  in  another,  was  nearly  7,000 
feet  deep.  Into  it  all  the  domes  of  the  Yosemite,  if  plucked  from  the  level  of 
that  valley,  might  be  cast,  together  with  all  the  mass  of  the  White  Mountains 
in  New  Hampshire,  and  still  the  chasm  would  not  be  filled." 

The  Needier  (1,49'7  miles),  so  named  from  the  curious  shape  of  the 
huge  pinnacles  of  rock  which  greet  the  eye,  are  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Colorado  River.  The  bridge  spanning  the  Colorado  River  at 
this  point  is  one  of  the  most  notable  engineering  feats  of  the  times. 
It  is  the  longest  cantilever  bridge  and  has  the  longest  single  span  in 
America.  Its  total  length  is  1,110  ft. ;  and  while  a  massive  and  strik- 
ing structure,  is  still  of  graceful  design,  and  its  airy  lightness  contrasts 
strongly  with  its  dimensions.  Brown,  desolate  bluffs  rise  abruptly 
from  the  river's  side,  and  to  the  south  the  ragged  Needles  Mountains, 
with  their  fantastic  shapes  and  spires,  form  a  grand  and  towering  back- 
ground for  an  inspiring  picture  of  a  picturesque,  romantic,  and  deso- 
late solitude.  This  bridge  is  what  is  known  as  a  "through"  cantilever 
bridge,  and  is  the  second  of  the  kind  in  America.  It  is  75  ft.  high 
from  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  is  entirely  of  steel,  3,400,000  pounds 
having  been  used  in  its  construction.  The  principal  dimensions  are  as 
follows:  Main  suspended  span,  660  ft.;  cantilever  arms  (each  165  ft.), 
total,  330  ft.;  viaduct,  120  ft.;  and  its  cost  was  $480,000.  Barstoio 
(1,662  miles)  is  the  point  where  connection  is  made  wdth  the  Southern 
California  R.  R.  for  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena,  and  San  Diego,  all  of  which 
are  described  on  pages  422  and  423.  For  240  miles  to  Mojave  (1,733 
miles)  the  route  presents  no  special  features  which  it  is  necessary  to 
describe.  The  town  is  a  brisk  place  of  several  hundred  inhabitants, 
and  an  important  point  of  distribution  for  mining  supplies.  It  is  at 
this  point  that  the  trains  of  the  "  Santa  Fe  Route  "  pass  on  to  the  track 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway.     Caliente  (1,768  miles)  and  Tulare 


Route   101.]      KANSAS    CITY    TO    SAX    FliAXCISCO.  449 

(1,874  miles)  need  only  passing  mention.  At  Lathrop  the  road  proceeds 
duly  W.  94  miles  to  San  Francisco  (see  Route  90).  P>om  here  also 
the  train  is  taken  to  Raymond^  which  is  a  starting-point  for  the  Yo- 
semite  Valley  (see  Route  92). 

h.  Northern  Route  via  Colorado  Springs,  Col.,  and  Ogden,  Utah. 

The  northern  route  to  the  Pacific  coast  is  by  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa 
Fe  R.  R.  to  Colorado  Springs,  Col.  :  thence  by  the  Colorado  Midland  Diy.  of 
the  Santa  Fe  system  to  Salt  Lake  City  and  Ogden,  Utah  ;  thence  by  the  Central 
Pacific  R.  R.  to  San  Francisco.  For  principal  stations  as  far  as  Pueblo  (63.5  m.), 
see  Route  06.  For  stations  from  Ogden  to  San  Francisco  (3,180  m.),  see  Route 
89.  This;  route  runs  complete  sleeping  and  buffet  car  service,  and  there  are  meal- 
stations  along  the  whole  line. 

The  route  from  Kansas  City  to  Pueblo,  Col.,  has  already  been  de- 
scribed in  Route  96.  From  the  latter  point  to  Colorado  Springs  the 
road  is  laid  on  a  prairie  track  in  sight  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
quite  near  the  foot-hills  at  times.  At  Colorado  Springs — an  all-the-year- 
round  health  resort,  a  clean,  pleasant,  beautiful  town,  with  all  the  eon- 
yeniences  and  luxuries  of  a  metropolitan  city — the  train  takes  the  track 
of  the  Colorado  Midland  Railway  ("Pike's  Peak  route"),  which  is  the 
regular  Denyer  &  Ogden  line,  and  runs  by  way  of  Manitou,  the  famous, 
the  romantic,  the  beautiful,  with  its  innumerable  novelties  and  attrac- 
tions, and  its  famous  mineral  waters ;  thence  under  the  base  of  Pike's 
Peak,  following  the  pioneer  Ute  Pass,  reaching  Cascade  Carion,  a  resort 
built  up  amid  fascinating  scenery  at  the  base  of  the  historical  peak ; 
Ute  Park,  in  the  center  of  the  Ute  Pass,  overlooking  a  lovely  valley 
hemmed  in  by  lofty  mountains ;  Green  Mountain  Falls,  a  cosmopolitan 
resort  which  became  famous  in  a  season,  and  whose  fame  is  rapidly 
spreading  from  day  to  day ;  Woodland  Park,  at  the  head  of  the  Ute 
Pass,  with  a  view  of  Pike's  Peak,  which,  once  seen,  is  never  forgotten ; 
and  then  Manitou  Park,  to  complete  the  list  of  resorts  in  the  Ute  Pass, 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  parks  in  all  Colorado.  A  coach  conveys  the 
traveler  from  the  station  to  the  park,  7  miles  distant.  From  Ute  Pass 
the  road  extends  W.  over  the  Hayden  Divide,  down  to  and  through 
Granite  Canon,  across  South  Park,  over  Trout  Creek  Pass,  and  down  to 
Buena  Vista,  in  the  Arkansas  Valley,  and  thence  to  Leadville.  The 
route  from  Leadville  W.  is  over  the  Saguache  Range  or  Continental 
Divide,  passing  through  the  Hagerman  Tunnel  at  an  altitude  of  11,528 
ft.,  the  highest  in  the  United  States.  From  the  summit  of  the  Snowy 
Range  the  road  passes  down  the  Pacific  Slope,  circling  Hell  Gate,  on 
the  Frying-Pan  River,  passing  the  White  Sulphur  Springs,  and  through 
the  Red  Rock  Canon  to  the  Roaring  Fork  of  the  Grand  River.  Trav- 
ersing the  Roaring  Fork  Valley,  it  reaches  Aspen  and  Glenwood  Springs, 
the  famous  hot  mineral  water  baths  of  Colorado,  from  which  latter 
place  it  follows  the  Grand  River  Valley  to  Grand  Junction,  which  is 
the  point  of  departure  for  pack-trains  for  the  White  River  country.  At 
Grand  Junction  the  trains  take  the  track  of  the  Rio  Grande  Western 
Railway,  and  traverses  a  region  which  is  notable  for  its  grand  and  pict- 
uresque scenery.  Green  River  is  on  the  Green  River,  across  which 
there  is  a  fine  railway-bridge.     Pleasant  Valley  Junction  (1,145  miles) 


450  KANSAS    CITY   TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.      [Rotlte  10 L 

is  at  the  junction  with  the  Pleasant  Valley  Branch.  Provo  (1,269 
miles),  a  prosperous  town  in  Utah  of  5,159  population,  is  on  the  Provo 
Kiver,  about  3  miles  E.  of  Utah  Lake,  and  lies  near  the  W.  base  of  the 
Wahsatch  Range.  It  contains  a  town-hall,  a  theatre,  many  flouring- 
mills  and  tanneries,  reduction- works,  etc.,  and  is  the  center  of  a  region 
rich  in  products  of  wheat,  hay,  wool,  and  cattle.  Here  connection  is 
made  with  the  Utah  Central  R.  R.  for  important  points  in  southern 
Utah.  At  Bingham  Junction  (1,299  miles)  connection  is  made  with  the 
Little  Cottonwood  and  Bingham  branches ;  and  in  1 1  miles  farther  we 
reach  Salt  Lake  City  (see  Route  90).  At  Ogden  (1,346  miles)  junc- 
tion is  made  with  the  Central  Pacific  Div.  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
R.  R.,  by  which  the  passenger  continues  his  route  to  San  Francisco 
(see  Routes  90,  91).  Ogden  is  also  the  point  of  junction  with  the  Union 
Pacific  system,  going  W.  to  Portland,  N.  to  Helena,  or  S.  to  San  Francisco. 

c.  Via  Deming  and  Benson  to  Guayynas  over  the  Atchison,  Topeka  & 
Santa  Fe  R.  R.,  Southern  Pacific  Co.,  New  Mexico  &  Arizona 
Railway,  and  Sonora  Railway ;  also  to  Yuma  via  the  Atchison, 
Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  and  Southern  Pacific  Railway. 

As  far  as  Deming  this  route  is  by  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  E.  R. 
(1,148  m.),  thence  by  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  Benson  (1,322  m.) ;  then  by 
the  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  Railway  to  Nogales  (1,410  m.),  and  Sonora  Rail- 
way to  Gnaymas,  Mex.  (1,587  m.).  The  fares  from  Kansas  City  and  New  York 
are  the  same  as  by  Siib-Routes  a  and  6,  and  the  same  equipment  and  provision 
are  made  for  the  comfort  of  the  traveler.  The  principal  stations  as  far  as 
Albuquerque,  N.  M.  (918  m.),  have  already  been  described  in  Routes  96  and  101  a. 
After  this  station  the  main  places  of  interest  are  Socorro  (994  m.),  San  Marcial 
(1,021  m.),  Rincon  (1,094  m.),  and  Deming  (1,149  m.),  the  point  of  junction  with 
the  Southern  Pacific  Co.  The  main  point  on  this  line  is  Benson  (1,322  m.). 
Through  sleeping-car  service  may  be  had  from  Chicago  to  Albuquerque,  from 
St.  Louis  to  El  Paso,  and  from  Deming  to  Yuma  ;  also  tourist-sleeper  from  Ben- 
son to  Guaymas. 

This  route  has  been  described  in  Route  96  (from  Kansas  City  to  La 
Junta)  and  in  Sub-Route  a  (from  La  Junta)  as  far  as  Albuquerque 
(918  miles).  Following  the  main  line  of  the  A.,  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R., 
we  soon  reach  one  of  the  most  interesting  mining  regions  of  New 
Mexico,  which  covers  several  thousand  square  miles,  and  extends  be- 
tween the  Black  Range  Mts.  on  the  W.  and  the  San  Andres  Mts. 
on  the  E.,  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  running  between.  The  mineral 
belts  lying  in  the  foot-hills  of  the  Black  Range  have  proved  to  be  pe- 
culiarly rich.  Socorro  (994  miles)  has  a  population  of  2,591,  and  is 
beautifully  situated  in  the  Rio  Grande  Valley.  Mining,  grazing,  and 
fruit-growing  are  the  principal  industries.  Socorro  has  a  stamp-mill  and 
smelting- works,  and  includes  in  the  mining  districts  tributary  to  it  many 
of  the  best-known  mines  in  New  Mexico.  Within  three  miles  are  the 
famous  Torrence  and  Merritt  mines.  The  ores  are  mostly  carbonates  of 
lead,  carrying  silver,  some  of  which  run  as  high  as  $28,000  to  the  ton. 
The  development  thus  far  has  been  sufficient  to  warrant  the  belief  that 
the  mountains  around  Socorro  contain  many  millions  of  gold,  silver,  and 
lead.  Socorro  contains  the  Territorial  School  of  Mines,  and  is  the  cen- 
ter of  a  fine  agricultural,  fruit-growing,  and  stock-raising  region,  and 


Route  101.~]     KANSAS    CITY   TO    SAN    FKANCISCO.  451 

there  are  many  fine  ranches  in  the  vicinity.  San  Marcial  (1,119  miles), 
consisting  of  the  old  and  new  to\yns,  has  a  population  of  611,  and  is  a 
thriving  place,  where  the  railroad  company  has  repair-shops.  The  bat- 
tle of  Valverde,  named  after  a  little  Mexican  village  across  the  river, 
was  fought  here  in  1862  between  the  Federals  under  Gen.  Canby  and 
the  Confederates  under  Gen.  Sibley.  The  railway  runs  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  Rio  Grande  as  far  as  San  Marcial,  where  it  crosses  the  stream, 
and  in  75  miles  reaches  Rincon,  whence  the  El  Paso  Branch  diverges 
to  the  S.  to  Rl  Paso  (77  miles),  and  connects  with  the  Mexican  Central 
R.  R.  for  the  city  of  Mexico  and  intermediate  points  (see  Route  102). 
At  Demmg  (1,149  miles)  is  the  proper  terminus  of  the  A.,  T.  &  S.  F. 
R.  R. ;  and  here  the  train  takes  the  track  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  which 
runs  through  southern  Arizona. 

Arizona  is  a  region  comparatively  unknown  to  the  tourist,  but  the  country 
has  been  now  made  so  accessible  by  the  Southern  Pacific  and  Atlantic  &  Pacific 
R.  Rs.,  running  in  connection  with  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.,  that 
its  beautiful  scenery  and  many  attractions  are  likely  to  excite  much  curiosity 
and  interest.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Utah,  on  the  E.  by  New  Mexico,  on 
the  S.  by  Mexico,  on  the  W.  by  California.  It  occupies  an  area  of  113,020  square 
miles,  being  about  twice  as  large  as  the  State  of  New  York.  It  is  essentially  a 
mountainous  and  wooded  country,  though  there  are  vast  stretches  of  sandy 
plains,  which,  however,  only  need  irrigation  to  become  fertile.  It  is  exceed- 
ingly rich  in  mineral  products,  and  has  many  large  sheep  and  cattle  ranches. 
The  land  dips  toward  the  S.  W.  from  lofty  plateaus  nearly  6,000  ft.  high  to 
plains  only  a  few  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  This  slope  is  one  grand  network 
of  mountains,  which  contains  some  of  the  most  noble  and  picturesque  scenery 
in  America.  The  Gila  River,  which  has  its  sources  in  the  mountains  of  N.  E. 
Arizona,  flows  for  a  portion  of  its  course  parallel  with  and  near  the  S.  P.  R.  R., 
emptying  into  the  Colorado  near  Yuma  (see  present  route).  Of  the  Colorado, 
a  river  without  a  parallel  in  many  of  its  features,  we  have  already  spoken  (see 
Sub-Route  a).  The  winter  climate  of  S.  Arizona  can  not  be  surpassed.  The 
climate  near  Yuma  is  finer  than  that  of  Italy.  In  the  mountains  of  W.  Arizona, 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  season  white  with  snow  on  the  upper  peaks,  the  ah- 
is  pure  and  dry  and  deliciously  cool.  An  immense  variety  of  climate  can  be 
found  within  a  range  of  200  m.  from  N.  to  S.  The  winter  climate  of  S.  Arizona 
is  both  warm  and  dry.  A  writer  familiar  with  the  region  thus  describes  the 
country  : 

"As  soon  as  this  great  sanitarium  is  fully  known  it  will  become  for  winter 
what  Colorado  now  is  in  summer— a  great  resort  for  invalids.  From  the  middle 
of  June  to  October,  however,  the  heat  is  intense  ;  but  travelers  say  that,  even 
with  the  thermometer  at  120  degrees,  sunstrokes  are  of  rare  occurrence.  This 
is  due  to  the  rarity  of  the  atmosphere.  The  average  rainfall  at  Fort  Mojave  is 
but  little  over  five  inches,  distributed  through  August,  December,  February,  and 
June.  At  Camp  Grant,  which  is  said  to  be  in  all  respects  a  medium  climate, 
the  diurnal  variations  of  temperature  are  from  15  to  30  degrees  ;  the  monthly 
range  being  about  27  degrees,  and  the  yearly  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  34  and 
96  degrees  respectively.  There  are,  annually,  about  65  days  of  rain  and  hail, 
and  3  of  snow.  At  Camp  Yerde  the  temperature  ranges  from  5  degrees  to  113 
degrees,  and  the  average  rainfall  is  8  inches.  At  Camp  Lowell,  7  miles  east  of 
Tucson,  the  diurnal  range  is  sometimes  70  degrees.  Persons  afflicted  with  pul- 
monary complaints  experience  speedy  relief  in  this  warm  atmosphere,  and 
many  wonderful  and  well-authenticated  cures  of  this  nature  are  reported.  The 
scenery  is  truly  channing.  It  is  not  so  rugged,  perhaps,  as  Colorado,  but  it  is, 
if  possible,  more  pleasing.  Instead  of  having  a  continuous  mountain-chain 
running  in  a  given  direction,  it  has  isolated  peaks  and  detached  sections  coming 
up  out  of  the  plain  apparently  at  random.  Yet,  while  her  landscapes  are  thus 
beautiful  to  a  degree  that  admits  of  no  rivalry,  Arizona  has  her  towering  peaks 
and  deep  canons  surpassing  those  of  any  other  locality.  The  canons  on  the 
Colorado  River  are  some  of  them  6,000 feet,  or  more  than  a  mile,  in  depth.  Men- 
tion should  here  be  made  of  the  valleys  of  Arizona.    They  are  numerous  and 


4:52     KANSAS    CITY    TO    THE    CITY    OF    MEXICO.     [Eoilte   102. 

fertile.  In  the  valley  of  the  Verde  settlements  have  been  made  to  a  consider- 
able extent.  Williamson's  Valley,  near  Prescott,  contains  not  less  than  500,000 
acres,  together  Avith  300,000  acres  of  adjacent  foot-hills,  well  furnished  with 
bunch-grass.  Around  Mount  Hope,  in  Yavapai  County,  there  are  scores  of 
beautiful  valleys  containing  from  40  to  400  acres  of  land  each  ;  in  fact,  wher- 
ever a  river  runs,  there,  at  some  portion  of  its  course,  may  be  fonnd  as  lovely 
depressions  as  exist  anywhere  in  the  United  States.  It  is  estimated  that  there 
are  about  2,800,000  acres  of  land  in  the  Territory,  of  the  very  best  quality,  with 
sufficient  surface  water  near  at  hand  to  properly  irrigate.  At  least  10,000,000 
acres  more,  it  is  said,  can  be  reclaimed  by  the  use  of  artesian  wells." 

Let  us  now  resume  our  railroad  journey  across  the  southern  part  of 
Arizona.  Benson  (1,322  miles)  is  the  point  of  junction  with  the  Sonora 
Div.,  which  runs  in  265  miles  to  Gaaynias^  Mexico,  on  the  Gulf  of 
California,  through  Sonora,  passing  through  Hermosillo^  the  capital  of 
Sonora,  noted  as  the  center  of  a  rich  agricultural  valley,  with  fine  graz- 
ing and  mineral  lands.  The  ancient  city  of  Tucson  (1,369  miles), 
which  has  5,150  population,  was  until  recently  the  capital  of  Ari- 
zona {Phoenix  now  enjoying  that  honor),  was  founded  in  1560  by  the 
Jesuits,  and  is  almost  as  quaint  in  its  buildings  and  social  character- 
istics as  Santa  Fe.  It  contains  two  churches  (one  Roman  Catholic), 
several  excellent  schools,  two  banks,  a  Coicrt- House,  and  a  U.  S.  Deposi- 
tory. It  does  a  large  business  in  exporting  gold-dust,  wool,  and  hides. 
Near  Casa  Grande  (1,434  miles)  is  a  remarkable  ruin  of  an  ancient 
Pueblo  City,  these  interesting  remains  being  preserved  in  a  very 
perfect  state  and  extending  2-J  miles  by  1^  miles,  showing  that  it  must 
have  had  a  population  in  olden  times  of  at  least  100,000  people.  The 
city  of  Yuma  (1,616  miles)  is  near  the  junction  of  the  Gila  and  Colo- 
rado Rivers,  and  here  the  train  crosses  the  latter  river  on  a  fine  bridge. 
The  city  has  a  population  of  some  1,'7'73.  It  is  approached  by  steamer 
up  the  Colorado  River,  and  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  Arizona  Branch 
of  the  S.  P.  R.  R.  Here  is  the  location  of  the  Territorial  Penitentiary.^ 
and  there  are  several  other  notable  public  buildings,  besides  a  convent 
and  several  churches.  Crossing  the  river  here  we  find  ourselves  in  the 
State  of  California. 

102.  Kansas  City  to  the  City  of  Mexico  via  Atchison,  To- 
peka  &  Santa  F6  R.  R.  and  the  Mexican  Central  R.  R. 

The  trains  run  sleeping-cars  daily  between  St.  Louis,  Kansas  City,  and  the 
City  of  Mexico  via  El  Paso  without  change.  The  distance  from  Kansas  City  to 
El  Paso  is  1,173  miles  ;  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  3,398  miles. 

The  "  International  Route  "  to  Mexico  is  ma  Southern  Pacific  from  New  Or- 
leans to  Spofford,  then  by  branch  line  to  Eagle  Pass,  where  the  transfer  is  made 
to  the  International  R.  R.,  which  connects  with  the  Mexican  Central  at  Torreon. 
(See  page  510,  Route  129.) 

From  Kansas  City  to  La  Junta  this  route  has  been  described  in 
Route  96  ;  from  La  Junta,  Col.,  to  Albuquerque,  N.  M.,  in  Route  101  a  ; 
from  Albuquerque  to  Rincou,  N.  M.,  in  Route  101  c.  At  Rincon  (1,096 
miles)  the  El  Paso  Branch  runs  to  El  Paso  on  the  Rio  Grande.  Las 
Cruces  (1,129  miles)  is  known  as  the  "Vineyard  City,"  from  the  sur- 
rounding orchards  and  vineyards,  and  has  a  population  of  2,4*72.  The 
Territorial  Agricultural  College  and  Experiment  Station  have  been  lo- 


Route   102.]     KANSAS    CITY    TO    THE    CITY    OF    MEXICO.    453 

cated  here.  The  church,  built  in  1854,  contains  a  number  of  interest- 
ing paintings.  It  is  the  center  of  a  rich  mining  region,  one  mine,  the 
"  Stephenson,"  having  produced  $3,0x00,000  in  five  years. 

El  Paso,  in  Texas,  is  7Y  miles  S.  of  Rincon,  1,1 73  miles  from 
Kansas  City.  The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  connects  here  in 
its  own  depot  with  the  Mexican  Central  R.  R.  The  population  of  El 
Paso  is  10,338,  and  the  city  is  growing  very  rapidly;  a  large  retail 
and  wholesale  trade  is  done  here  (the  fruit  trade  is  of  large  impor- 
tance), and  its  superior  railroad  facilities  give  El  Paso  merchants  many 
advantages.  The  Southern  Pacific  Co.  and  the  Texas  &  Pacific  R.  R. 
center  here.  This  place  is  of  considerable  importance  as  a  port  of  entry 
from  Mexico,  and  75  per  cent  of  the  exports  from  that  country  to  the 
United  States  pass  through  the  custom-house  here.  It  is  the  chief 
point  of  entry  for  the  Mexican  bullion  and  ores  that  are  sent  North 
for  smelting.  There  are  hotels  {Grand  Central,  Vendome),  banks,  2 
street-railways  to  the  old  town  of  Juarez,  the  onl;f  international  street- 
railways  in  the  woi-ld,  and  three  newspapers ;  Methodist,  Episcopal,  Cath- 
olic, Baptist,  and  Presbyterian  churches,  and  good  public  schools.  The 
military  post  about  to  be  established  in  El  Paso  will  be  the  most  im- 
portant one  on  the  Southern  frontier. 

JSl  Paso  del  Norte, ^  now  called  Juarez,  the  first  city  of  Old 
Mexico  which  we  reach,  is  just  across  the  river  from  El  Paso.  It  is 
built  almost  entirely  of  adobe,  and  the  homes  of  its  7,000  people  are 
scattered  along  a  narrow,  rambling,  adobe- walled  street  running  several 
miles  down  the  river.  The  old  church  is  worth  a  visit,  and  the  Custom- 
House  is  a  fine  building.  The  ride  to  the  city  of  Chihuahua,  made  dur- 
ing the  day,  introduces  the  traveler  to  the  wide  expanse  of  that  high 
table-land  which  forms  the  greater  portion  of  the  interior  of  Mexico, 
but  for  variety  it  also  includes  a  view  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Rio  Carmen ;  w^hile  beyond,  on  the  W.,  lie  the  Sierra  Madre  Mts.,  which 
form  a  natural  and  effectual  boundary  between  the  States  of  Chihua- 
hua and  Sonora.  Chihuahua  (1,398  miles),  the  capital  of  the  State 
of  the  same  name,  is  a  beautiful  city  of  13,128  people.  There  is  a 
great  deal  of  wealth  and  refinement  in  Chihuahua,  being  the  center  of 
a  rich  mining,  agricultural,  and  stock-growing  country,  and  its  mag- 
nificent cathedral  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  edifices  on  the  con- 
tinent. {American  Hou%e,  Robinson  House.)  From  Chihuahua  the 
road  runs  along  the  central  plateau,  through  mountain-passes  and 
among  fertile  valleys.  Immense  herds  and  flocks  graze  beside  the 
track,  while  the  agriculture  is  of  that  diversified  character  only  possible 
where  the  products  of  the  tropical  and  temperate  cHmates  may  be  grown 
in  the  same  field.  Passing  Sornbrerete.,  with  its  colleges  and  mines,  a 
city  of  7,000  population,  and  Fresnillo.,  a  city  of  13,021  people,  we  ar- 
rive at  Zacatecas,  with  a  population  of  20,722  (1,960  miles).  Tele- 
phonic and  telegraphic  service  and  the  electric  light — which  illuminates 
the  plaza — are  evidences  that  this  interior  city  in  the  heart  of  Mexico 
has  begun  to  feel  the  influence  of  the  great  tide  of  immigration  {Hotel 

1  A  very  brief  description  is  given  of  all  cities  mentioned  in  Mexico.  The 
reader  is  referred  for  information  to  "  Appletons'  Illustrated  Guide  to  Mexico." 


154     KANSAS    CITY    TO   THE   CITY    OF   MEXICO.     [Route  102. 

Zacatecano).  The  mines  of  Zacatecas  have  produced,  with  the  primi- 
tive method  of  mining  not  yet  entirely  discarded  in  Mexico,  about 
$1,000,000,000.  The  city  is  built  on  a  vein  of  silver,  and  contains 
many  fine  residences  and  public  buildings,  among  them  being  the  Mint^ 
Theatre^  Hospital^  and  several  convents.  Aguas  Calientes  (2,035  miles, 
population  32,355)  is  noted  for  its  Hot  Springs^  which  give  name  to  the 
city  and  State.  San  Luis  Potosi  (3*7,314  population),  the  capital  of 
a  State  of  the  same  name,  which  lies  a  little  E.  of  the  main  line  on  the 
route  to  Tampico,  is  considered  by  many  to  be  the  most  beautiful  city  of 
Mexico.  Guadalajara  {Hotel  Hidalgo)^  another  city  not  on  the  main 
line,  has  a  population  of  83,122,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important 
manufacturing  centers  of  the  republic.  On  the  Mexican  Central  R.  R. 
we  successively  pass  Lagos  (2,103  miles,  14,297  population),  Leon  (2,140 
miles,  4'7,'739  population),  and  Celaya  (2,207  miles,  26,6*70  population), 
till  we  reach  the  historic  city  of  Queretaro  (2,246  miles,  23,520  popu- 
lation), which  was  the  scene  of  the  downfall  and  execution  of  the  ill- 
fated  Emperor  Maximilian  in  1867.  The  city  contains  many  important 
woolen-mills,  and  is  chiefly  noticeable  for  its  numerous  ecclesiastical  and 
religious  structures,  among  the  latter  being  the  Franciscan  Monastery^ 
with  its  noble  gardens  and  grounds  {Hotels,  I>iligencias,  Del  Ferro- 
carril).  Passing  San  Juan  del  Rio  (2,280  miles,  10,000  population), 
Polatitlan  (2,304  miles),  Tula,  on  the  banks  of  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  famous  as  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Toltecs  (2,349  miles,  10,000 
population),  and  several  unimportant  places,  we  reach  the  *  City  of 
Mexico  in  2,398  miles.  {Hotels,  Gillair,  Iturhide,  San  Carlos.)  This 
ancient  capital  had  a  population  of  351,804  in  1521,  and  was  a  seat 
of  .art,  science,  and  commerce  long  before  the  Spanish  conquest.  The 
present  population  is  337,600.  It  is  situated  in  the  center  of  the 
great  valley  of  Mexico,  which  measures  45  miles  long  and  31  miles 
wide.  Its  elevation  above  the  sea  is  7,420  ft.,  which  gives  it  a  climate 
of  remarkable  uniformity,  the  range  of  the  thermometer  being  from 
50°  to  70°  Fahr.  The  rainy  season  begins  early  in  June  and  con- 
tinues until  September,  showers  occurring  usually  in  the  afternoons 
and  nights.  The  city  is  built  on  a  part  of  the  old  bed  of  Lake 
Texcoco,  and  tradition  gives  it  a  more  romantic  origin  than  it  ascribes 
to  the  founding  of  Rome.  Science  and  art  have  done  much  to  make 
it  a  beautiful  city,  and  there  seems  to  be  a  disposition  on  the  part  of 
the  people  and  government  to  make  their  nation's  capital  compare  favor- 
ably with  the  capitals  of  other  countries.  The  city  is  encircled  by  walls 
and  entered  by  gates.  The  residences  are  mostly  of  stone,  one  and  two 
stories  high,  and  built  around  court-yards.  The  public  edifices  are  nu- 
merous and  substantial.  Chief  among  the  objects  of  interest  is  the 
*  Cathedral,  500  ft.  in  length  by  420  ft.  in  breadth,  the  largest  eccle- 
siastical edifice  in  the  western  hemisphere.  It  is  of  mixed  Gothic  and 
Indian  architecture,  and  is  on  the  site  of  the  chief  temple  of  the  Aztecs. 
The  walls  are  gorgeously  decorated,  and  the  high  altar  is  a  marvel  of 
magnificence.  The  dress  on  the  statue  of  the  Virgin  is  incrusted  with 
gems,  the  diamonds  alone,  it  is  claimed,  being  worth  $3,000,000.  The 
Cathedral  is  on  one  side  of  the  Grcmd  Plaza,  the  other  sides  being  occu- 


Route   103.]  ST.    LOUIS    TO    TEXAS.  455 

pied  by  the  National  Palace,  comprising  the  government  offices, 
mint,  and  prison,  the  Natio7ial  Museum.,  with  an  unrivaled  Aztec  collec- 
tion, and  the  Market-Place.  Other  fine  old  buildings  are  the  University 
of  Mexico.,  Academy  of  Arts.,  Public  Library.,  containing  105,000  vol- 
umes, several  theatres,  and  numerous  churches  and  convents,  of  which 
there  are  60  of  the  former  and  40  of  the  latter.  Objects  of  interest 
are  found  in  the  fine  Botanic  Garden  and  the  two  aqueducts.  The 
city  is  noted  industrially  for  its  manufacture  of  gold  and  silver  lace, 
and  of  silversmiths'  work. 

103.  St.  Louis  to  Texas. 

a.    Via  Missouri.,  Kansas  &  Texas  R.  R. 

The  Missouri  Pacific  E.  R.  makes  close  connection  at  St.  Louis  with 
all  the  important  Eastern  and  Northern  routes  to  that  city,  and  runs 
four  daily  express-trains  with  sleeping-car  service  to  principal  points  in 
Texas.  For  the  route  to  Sedalia  (188  miles)  see  Route  96.  At  this 
point  connection  for  Southern  points  is  made  with  the  Missouri,  Kansas 
&  Texas  R.  R.,  which  has  its  noi^thern  terminus  at  Hannibal,  Mo.  (143 
miles  from  Sedalia),  where  close  connection  is  made  with  the  Chicago, 
Burlington  &  Quincy  R.  R.,  and  other  trunk-lines  from  the  East.  East- 
ern passengers  may  take  a  through  car  at  either  Chicago,  St.  Louis, 
Kansas  City,  Hannibal,  or  Sedalia  for  places  in  Texas.  The  Missouri, 
Kansas  &  Texas  R.  R.  brings  the  rich  agricultural  and  cattle-raising  dis- 
tricts of  Texas  within  3  or  4  days'  time  of  the  Northern  markets.  It  is 
this  which  gives  the  road  its  importance,  and  except  for  this  it  presents 
little  of  interest  to  the  traveler,  traversing  as  it  does  a  region  which  is 
for  the  most  part  uninteresting.  Sedalia  is  described  in  Route  93.  At 
Fort  Scott  (298  miles  from  St.  Louis)  it  enters  Kansas,  and  just  beyond 
Chetopa  (370  miles)  it  enters  the  Indian  Territory,  which  it  crosses  in  a 
neai'ly  straight  line  from  N.  to  S.,  passing  through  some  picturesque 
scenery.  If  the  tourist  desires  to  visit  the  great  Indian  Reservations, 
this  is  the  road  which  he  should  take,  as  it  carries  him  directly  into 
their  midst. 

The  principal  stations  on  the  northern  section  of  the  line  are  Fort 
Scott  (298  miles)  and  Parsons  (347  miles),  both  in  Kansas.  Fort 
Scott  is  a  city  of  11,946  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Marmiton  River, 
a  branch  of  the  Osage.  It  was  established  as  a  military  post  in  1842, 
and  incorporated  as  a  town  in  1855,  and  is  now  rapidly  growing. 
Bituminous  coal  is  abundant  in  the  surrounding  country,  and  the  manu- 
facturing interests  promise  to  become  important.  Parsons  is  a  flour- 
ishing little  city  of  6,736  inhabitants,  at  the  junction  of  the  Neosho 
Div.  of  the  M.,  K.  &  T.  R.  R.  with  the  main  line.  It  is  the  site  of  the 
R.  R.  construction  and  repair  shops,  and  is  built  on  a  high  rolling  prairie 
between  and  near  the  confluence  of  the  Big  and  Little  Labette  Rivers. 
Vinita  (399  miles)  is  the  flrst  station  in  the  Indian  Territory,  which  is 
traversed  to  Durant  (600  miles).  The  first  important  station  in  Texas 
is  Denison  (621  miles),  which  is  becoming  an  important  railroad  center. 
It  dates  only  from  1872,  and  had  a  population  in  1890  of  10,958,  wjth 


456  ST.    LOUIS    TO   TEXAS.  [Eoute  103. 

several  important  flour-mills  and  factories.  Denison  is  the  N.  terminus 
of  the  Houston  &  Texas  Central  R.  R.,  which  traverses  some  of  the 
most  fertile  portions  of  Texas.  Nine  miles  beyond  Denison  is  Sher- 
man, a  city  of  7,335  inhabitants.  This  is  also  reached  by  the  Houston 
&  Texas  Central  R.  R.,  and  the  Texas  k  Pacific  R.  R.  It  is  substantially 
built,  largely  of  stone,  and  has  a  fine  stone  Court-House,  with  excel- 
lent schools  and  churches.  Its  trade  with  the  surrounding  country  is 
large,  and  its  manufactures  include  cotton-seed  oil,  flour,  and  cotton. 
Sixty-three  miles  beyond  Sherman  is  Dallas  {G-rand  Windsor  Hotel^ 
McLeod,  St.  George  Hotel).,  the  capital  of  northern  Texas,  with  a  population 
of  38,067,  an  extensive  trade  with  the  surrounding  country,  and  numer- 
ous manufacturing  establishments.  It  is  well  built  for  so  young  a  city 
(its  population  in  1872  was  but  1,500),  and  has  22  churches,  29  schools, 
electric  street-railways,  fire-companies,  and  gas  and  water  works.  The 
Court-House.,  now  building,  will  cost  over  $3,000,000.  Prominent  build- 
ings are  the  Catholic  and  Episcopal  Churches,  and  the  Dallas  Female 
College  (Methodist)  and  Male  and  Female  College  (Baptist).  Dallas  is 
on  the  main  line  of  the  Texas  &  Pacific  R.  R.,  which  runs  from  New 
Orleans  to  El  Paso,  New  Mexico,  1,157  miles.  Corsicana  (748  miles) 
and  Mexia  (778  miles)  are  thriving  towns.  At  Bremond  (816  miles 
from  St.  Louis  and  143  miles  from  Houston)  a  line,  known  as  the  Waco 
branch  of  the  Houston  &  Texas  Central  R.  R.,  diverges  and  runs  in  45 
miles  to  Waco  {McClelland  House.,  Pacific  Hotel).,  a  rapidly-growing 
city  of  14,445  inhabitants,  situated  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  State,  on 
both  sides  of  the  Brazos  River,  which  is  spanned  by  a  handsome  suspen- 
sion-bridge. The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  remarkably  well  built, 
and  contains  a  substantial  stone  Court-House,  9  churches,  and  a  number 
of  flourishing  educational  institutions,  of  which  Baylor  University  is  the 
principal.  Waco  is  the  commercial  center  of  a  rich  and  fertile  coun- 
try, which  is  rapidly  filling  up  with  immigrants,  and  has  a  number  of 
prosperous  manufacturing  establishments. 

On  the  main  line,  22  miles  S.  of  Bremond,  is  Hearne.,  where  the  In- 
ternational &  Great  Northern  Div.  of  the  M.  P.  R.  R.  intersects  the 
present  route.  From  Hempstead  (51  miles  from  Houston)  the  Western 
Div.  diverges  and  runs  in  115  miles  to  A.ustiii  (Avenue  House.,  Brtcns- 
wick  Hotel.,  Hriskill),  the  capital  of  Texas,  a  city  of  14,476  inhabitants, 
situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Colorado  River,  160  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Just  above  the  city  a  dam  is  being  built  across  the  Colorado.  It  is  to 
be  60  ft.  in  height  and  1,100  ft.  in  length,  constructed  of  limestone 
(which  abounds  at  the  spot),  and  capped  with  red  granite.  It  will  cost 
$468,000  together  with  the  canal  and  appurtenances.  Towering  nearly 
over  the  dam  is  a  small  mountain,  on  the  brow  of  which  the  reservoir 
is  to  be  constructed.  The  reservoir,  water-motors,  and  buildings  at  the 
dam,  and  the  mains  and  service-pipes  and  electric-light  plant,  lands, 
wires,  etc.,  will  cost  nearly  $900,000  more.  The  city  is  built  on  an  am- 
phitheatre of  hills,  and  overlooks  the  valley  of  the  Colorado.  Capitol 
Square  contains  20  acres  on  a  gentle  elevation  in  the  center  of  the 
city,  upon  the  summit  of  which  the  Capitol  (said  to  be  the  seventh 
largest  building  in  the  world),  of  Burnet  granite  (costing  |3, 600,000),  is 


Route  103. \  ST.    LOUIS   TO   TEXAS.  457 

situated  with  the  Supreme  Court,  while  on  the  square  is  the  Treasury 
building,  and  on  the  E.  side  is  the  General  Land- Office^  which  is  a  hand- 
some edifice.  Other  noteworthy  buildings  are  the  Universiti/  of  Texas, 
Tillotson  Institute,  County  Court-House,  the  County  Jail,  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb,  Blind,  and  Lunatic  Asylums,  and  the  Market-House,  in  the  sec- 
ond story  of  Avhich  are  the  municipal  offices.  The  city  is  connected  with 
the  region  south  of  the  Colorado  by  an  iron  bridge  (free)  that  cost 
$'75,000.  Austin  is  also  reached  by  the  International  &  Great  North- 
ern R.  R.,  by  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  R.  R.,  by  the  Texas  Central 
R.  R.,  and  the  Austin  &  Northwestern  R.  R. 

Houston  [Capitol  Hotel,  Dissen  House,  Hotel  Boyies,  and  Tremont 
House),  the  third  city  of  Texas  in  population  and  commerce  and  the  first 
in  manufactures,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on  Buffalo  Bayou, 
30  miles  above  its  mouth  in  Galveston  Bay,  and  819  miles  from  St. 
Louis.  It  is  built  on  both  banks  of  the  bayou,  which  is  spanned  by 
several  bridges,  embraces  an  area  of  9  square  miles,  and  had  by  the  cen- 
sus of  1890  a  population  of  2'7,55'7.  Its  manufactures  are  varied  and 
extensive ;  and  it  is  the  center  of  the  railroad  system  of  the  State,  with 
1 2  diverging  railways,  which  bring  to  it  the  products  of  a  rich  grazing 
and  agricultural  region.  The  principal  public  building  is  the  City  Halt 
and  Market-Honse,  constructed  of  brick.  Besides  the  city  offices,  it  con- 
tains a  hall,  fitted  up  for  public  entertainments  and  capable  of  seating 
1,300  persons.  From  the  top  of  the  main  tower,  128  ft.  high,  there  is 
a  fine  view.  The  Texas  Geological  and  Scientific  Association  has  rooms 
in  the  Cotton  Exchange,  a  handsome  brick  building.  The  Masonic  Tem- 
ple is  a  spacious  structure,  costing  $200,000,  and  the  Post-Office  is  an 
attractive  building.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas  and  electric  light,  has 
abundance  of  water,  an  excellent  fire  department,  and  horse-cars.  It 
has  5  cotton-presses,  of  a  capacity  of  1,000  bales  a  day  each,  and  3  cot- 
ton-seed oil  mills.  The  bayou  is  navigable  by  vessels  drawing  13  ft.  of 
water,  and  the  Morgan  Line  of  Steamships  affords  connections  with  Gal- 
veston and  Xew  Orleans.  From  Houston,  the  International  and  Great 
Northern  R.  R.  and  the  Gulf,  Colorado  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  run  S.  E.  in  50 
miles  to  Galveston  {Beach  House,  Girardin,  Tremont  House,  and  the 
Washington),  the  second  largest  city  and  commercial  metropohs  of  Texas, 
situated  at  the  N.  E.  extremity  of  Galveston  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
bay  of  the  same  name.  The  city  is  laid  out  with  wide  and  straight 
streets,  bordered  by  numerous  flower-gardens,  and  in  1890  contained 
29,084  inhabitants.  Besides  the  churches,  of  w^hich  several  are  hand- 
some edifices,  the  public  buildings  include  the  Custom-House  and  Post- 
Office,  U.  S.  Court-House,  County  Court-House,  City  Hall,  Supreme  Court- 
House,  Cotton-Exchange,  Masonic  Temple,  Opera-House,  two  theatres, 
several  public  halls,  the  Union  and  Harmony  Club-Houses,  and  three 
market-houses.  In  the  business  portion  of  the  city  are  numerous  hand- 
some commercial  buildings,  and  there  are  many  fine  residences.  Of 
institutions  of  learning  the  most  noteworthy  are  the  U7iiversity  of  St. 
Mary  (Roman  Catholic),  the  Ursuline  Convent,  the  Sacred  Heart  (a  large 
convent  and  school),  BalVs  High-School,  Rosenberg  School,  and  other 
free  public-school  buildings.     Magnolia  Grove  Cemetery  embraces  10<) 


458  ST.    LOUIS  TO  TEXAS.  [Route  103. 

acres  neatly  laid  out.  The  Island  of  Galveston  is  about  29  miles  long 
and  1^  to  3-J  wide,  and  is  bordered  throughout  its  whole  length  by  a 
smooth  hard  beach  which  affords  a  pleasant  drive  and  promenade.  The 
harbor  is  the  best  in  the  State,  and  at  present  is  being  improved  under 
the  supervision  of  the  U.  S.  engineers.  The  commerce  of  the  city  is 
very  extensive,  the  chief  business  being  the  shipment  of  cotton.  There 
is  a  tri- weekly  line  of  steamers  (the  Mallory  Line)  to  New  York  (start- 
ing-point in  New  York,  Pier  20,  East  Kiver),  and  a  weekly  line  (South- 
ern Pacific)  from  Pier  25,  North  River. 

From  Houston,  the  Galveston,  Harrisburg  &  San  Antonio  R.  R.  runs 
W.  265  miles  through  a  thickly  settled  country  to  San  Antonio 
[Maverick,  Menger  Hotel,  Southern),  the  chief  city  of  western  Texas, 
with  a  population  in  1890  of  37,673,  one  third  of  whom  are  of  Ger- 
man and  one  third  of  Mexican  origin.  It  is  situated  on  the  San  Antonio 
and  San  Pedro  Rivers,  and  was  formerly  divided  into  three  "quarters": 
San  Antonio  proper,  between  the  two  streams ;  Alamo,  E.  of  the  San 
Antonio;  and  Chihuahua,  W.  of  the  San  Pedro.  The  former  is  the 
business  quarter,  and  has  been  almost  entirely  rebuilt  since  1860.  Be- 
sides many  handsome  business  buildings,  it  contains  the  Federal  Build- 
ing and  the  City  Hall.  It  consists  of  the  Military  Plaza,  Main  Plaza, 
and  Commerce,  Market,  and  Houston  Sts.,  and  the  streets  running  par- 
allel with  each  other  from  the  Main  Plaza.  Separated  from  the  Main 
Plaza  by  a  fine  Catholic  church  is  the  Plaza  de  las  Armas.  Chihuahua 
is  somewhat  Mexican  in  character  and  population,  and  still  has  houses 
one  story  high,  built  partly  of  stone  and  partly  of  upright  logs,  with 
cane  roofs.  Alamo  is  considerably  higher  than  the  other  two  sections 
of  the  city,  and  is  mostly  inhabited  by  Germans.  In  the  N.  part,  on 
the  Alamo  Plaza,  is  the  famous  ^Fort  Alamo,  where,  in  March,  1836,  a 
garrison  of  Texans,  attacked  by  an  overwhelming  Mexican  force,  per- 
ished to  a  man  rather  than  yield.  Missions  San  Jose,  San  Juan,  and 
Concepcion,  built  by  the  Spaniards,  who  founded  San  Antonio  in  1714, 
are  interesting  objects ;  and  the  market-places  and  street-scenes  will 
amuse  the  visitor  as  being  more  foreign  and  queer  than  those  of  almost 
any  other  American  city.  San  Antonio  may  also  be  reached  from  north- 
ern points  by  the  International  &  Great  Northern  R.  R.,  connecting  with 
the  Texas  extension  of  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  Div.  from  Denison 
at  Taylor. 

h.  Via  ^'■Iron  Mountain  Route.'''' 

This  line  is  nearly  100  miles  shorter  than  the  previous  one,  and 
extends  S.  W.  through  eastern  Missouri  and  central  Arkansas,  connect- 
ing at  Texarkana  with  the  Texas  &  Pacific  R.  R.  Three  trains  daily 
from  St.  Louis,  with  sleeping-car  service  attached,  run  through  without 
change  of  cars  to  Houston,  Galveston,  San  Antonio,  Dallas,  Laredo,  El 
Paso,  Los  Angeles,  and  San  Francisco.  For  about  25  miles  from  St.  Louis 
the  W.  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River  is  followed,  and  afterward  the  road 
traverses  a  rich  and  highly  cultivated  agricultural  region,  and  the  great 
mineral  fields  of  Missouri,  including  the  famous  Iron  Mountain  and  Pilot 
Knob.  At  Bismarck  (75  miles)  the  road  branches  :  one  line  running  S. 
E.  to  Belmont  and  Columbus,  Ky.,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  rail 


Route  103.]  ST.    LOUIS   TO   TEXAS.  459 

way  system  of  the  Southern  States  E.  of  the  Mississippi  River ;  at  Knobel, 
the  through  trains  for  Memphis  use  the  Helena  branch  ;  while  the  Texas 
line  passes  S.  W.  and  crosses  the  State  of  Arkansas  in  a  diagonal  direc- 
tion. The  only  important  place  on  this  section  of  the  line  is  Little 
Rock  ( Capitol^  Deming^  Grand  Central^  and  Richelieu)^  the  capital 
and  chief  city  of  Arkansas,  with  a  population  of  25,874,  built  upon  the 
first  bed  of  rocks  that  is  met  with  in  ascending  the  Arkansas  River. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  wide  streets  lighted  with  electricity 
and  traversed  by  electric-cars.  The  business  blocks  are  mainly  of  brick, 
and  the  residences  are  surrounded  by  gardens  adorned  with  shade-trees 
and  shrubberies,  presenting  a  handsome  appearance.  The  principal  pub- 
lic buildings  are  the  County  Court-House^  State-House^  Custom-House 
and  Post-Office^  the  Lunatic  Asylum^  Little  Rock  University^  and  State 
Medical  College.  Several  of  the  churches  and  school-houses  are  hand- 
some structures.  Little  Rock  is  the  seat  of  a  U.  S.  Arsenal  and  Land 
Office,  of  the  State  Penitentiary,  and  of  the  State  Institutions  for  deaf- 
mutes,  the  blind,  and  the  insane.  The  State  Library  contains  20,000 
volumes  and  the  Mercantile  Library  1,800.  Pine  Orove^  Glenwood 
Park,  West  End  Park,  Basehcdl  ParA",  and  Mountain  Park  are  among 
the  resorts  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city.  The  Arkansas  is  nav- 
igable to  Little  Rock  at  all  times  by  steamers,  and  several  important  rail- 
ways converge  here.  From  Malvern  (42  miles  S.  of  Little  Rock)  the 
Hot  Springs  R.  R.  diverges  and  runs  in  20  miles  to  the  famous  Hot 
Springs  {Eastman,  Park,  and  many  others),  one  of  the  most  fre- 
quented health-resorts  in  America.  The  town,  which  is  simply  an  ap- 
pendage of  the  sanitarium,  contains  8,086  inhabitants,  and  is  built  prin- 
cipally in  the  narrow  valley  of  Hot  Springs  Creek,  which  runs  N.  and 
S.  amid  the  Ozark  Mts.  The  valley  is  about  1|'  mile  long,  is  1,500  ft. 
above  the  sea,  and  is  very  rugged  and  picturesque.  The  springs  (YS  in 
number)  issue  from  the  W.  slope  of  Hot  Springs  Mountain,  vary  in  tem- 
perature from  76°  to  157°  Fahr.,  and  discharge  into  the  creek  about 
500,000  gallons  a  day.  The  waters  are  used  both  internally  and  ex- 
ternally (but  chiefly  in  the  form  of  baths),  and  are  remedial  in  rheu- 
matism, rheumatic  gout,  malarial  fevers,  scrofula,  and  diseases  of  the 
skin.  (For  a  full  description  of  this  place,  see  Appletons'  Hand-Book 
OF  WiXTER  Resorts.)  At  Texarkana  (491  miles  from  St.  Louis)  Texas 
is  entered,  and  connections  are  made  with  the  Texas  &  Pacific  R.  R., 
via  which  are  run  daily  three  through  trains  with  complete  palace- 
car  service  to  Marshall,  Mineola,  Dallas,  Fort  Worth,  and  El  Paso,  the 
time  from  St.  Louis  to  Dallas  being  24i  hours.  At  Texarkana  con- 
nection is  also  made  with  the  Transcontinental  Div.  of  the  Texas  & 
Pacific  R.  R.  to  Clarksville,  Paris,  Honey  Grove,  Bonham  Bells,  Sher- 
man, Whitesboro.  Denton,  and  Fort  Worth.  At  Longvieio  (587  miles) 
connection  is  made  with  the  International  &  Great  Northern  R.  R., 
which  runs  S.  to  Pcdestine  (765  miles),  and  there  branches,  the  Gulf 
Div.  leading  to  Houston  and  Galveston  (see  Sub-Route  a).  The  Inter- 
national runs  S.  W.  from  Palestine  to  Taylor,  where  it  connects  with 
a  branch  of  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  R.  R.,  thence  through  Austin 
and  San  Antonio  (see  Sub-Route  a)  to  Laredo^  on  the  Rio  Grande  (165 


460  ST.    LOUIS   TO   TEXAS.  [Route  103. 

miles  from  San  Antonio),  with  a  population  in  1890  of  11,319,  an  im- 
portant center  of  the  wool  and  cattle  business,  as  some  of  the  largest  and 
most  profitable  ranches  in  the  State  lie  in  this  vicinity.  This  place  has 
lately  acquired  a  new  importance  as  the  connecting-link  between  the  Mis- 
souri Pacific  R.  R.  system  in  the  U.  S.  and  the  Mexican  R.  R.  system,  in- 
cluding the  Texas,  Mexican,  and  Mexican  National  R.  Rs.  This  new  rail- 
way, which  when  completed  will  give  another  through  route  to  the  city  of 
Mexico  and  all  other  important  Mexican  cities,  is  projected  to  run  from 
Nueva  Laredo  (connected  by  R.  R.  bridge  with  Laredo  acx^oss  the  Rio 
Grande)  to  Mexico  city,  with  branches  to  Matamoras,  San  Luis  Potosi, 
Tampico,  Tuxpan,  Papantla,  Nautla,  Vera  Cruz,  and  to  the  Pacific  coast. 
The  total  length,  including  branches,  will  be  about  1,400  miles. 

The  Mexican  National  is  already  finished  from  Corpus  ChrisH,  Texas,  to 
Laredo  (161  m.),  and  from  Laredo  by  the  Nueva  Laredo  bridge  over  the  Eio 
Grande  to  Saltillo,  Mexico  (323  m.).  On  the  S.  it  is  completed  from  the  city  of 
Mexico  in  a  northerly  direction  to  San  Miguel  (409  m.),  with  several  small 
branches.  From  Saltillo  a  line  is  being  constructed  to  connect  with  the  Mexi- 
can Tnternational  at  Jaral.    At  present  it  is  a  stage-drive  of  42  miles. 

The  San  Antonio  &  Aransas  Pass  Railway  Co.'s  main  line  is  from  Kerrville 
to  Houston  (308  m.),  with  a  Corpus  Christi  Div.,  running  from  Kenedy  to  Corpus 
Christ!  (88  m.)  ;  an  Austin  Div.,  running  from  Austin  Junction  to  Lockhart  (53 
m.) ;  a  Waco  Div.,  running  from  Yoakum  to  Waco  (1.58  m.)  ;  a  Brownsville  Div., 
running  from  Skidmore  to  Alice  (43  m.)  ;  and  a  Rockport  section  of  21  m.;  mak- 
ing a  total  of  671  miles  of  operated  lines.  This  line  connects  the  cities  of  Hous- 
ton and  San  Antonio,  and  the  large  towns  of  Corpus  Christi,  Eockport,  Kerr- 
ville, Boerne,  Yoakum,  Flatonia,  Gonzales.  Eagle  Lake,  Beeville,  Cuero,  Luling, 
Yorktown,  and  Giddings.  Its  northern  extension  pierces  the  iron,  coal,  mar- 
ble, and  granite  fields  of  Gillespie  and  Llano  Counties  ;  its  southern  terminus 
counects'the  future  deep-water  ports  of  Eockport,  Corpus  Christi,  and  Aransas 
Pass  ;  its  eastern  terminus  is  in  the  heart  of  the  great  lumber  region  of  Texas  ; 
and  the  proposed  western  terminus,  at  the  entry  port  of  Laredo,  will  insure  the 
shortest  route  from  the  East  to  all  the  leading  Mexican  cities.  For  the  most 
part  this  route  passes  through  a  rich  farming  territory,  which  compares  favor- 
ably with  any  section  of  the  Union.  The  principal  cities  through  which  it  runs 
have  been  previously  described. 

Corpus  Christi,  the  county-seat  of  Nueces  County,  is  situated  on  Corpus 
Christi  Bay,  1.50  miles  from  San  Antonio  and  264  miles  from  Houston.  It  has 
a  population  of  4,387,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  San  Antonio  &  Aransas  Pass, 
of  the  Mexican  National,  and  of  the  Corpus  Christi  &  South  American  Railways 
(now  building).  It  is  surrounded  by  fine  farming  and  fruit  lands,  is  near  to  the 
harbor  of  Aransas  Pass,  and  is  rapidly  improving,  owing  to  the  public  spirit  of 
its  citizens.  There  are  two  hotels,  recently  built,  with  a  capacity  of  500  guests, 
and  it  is  well  known  as  a  summer-resort.  It  is  called  by  the  people  of  Texas  the 
''  Naples  of  America." 

Bockport  (or  Aransas  Pass),  seat  of  Aransas  County,  is  situated  on  Aransas 
Bay,  160  miles  from  San  Antonio  and  275  miles  from  Houston.  It  has  a  magnifi- 
cent harbor,  which  will  soon  be  opened  up  to  the  commerce  of  the  world  by  the 
completion  of  the  jetty-work  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pass  between  St.  Joseph  and 
Mustang  Islands,  connecting  the  bay  with  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  finest  fruit 
and  garden  lands  to  be  found  in  Texas  surround  this  place.  The  winter  vege- 
tables are  marvels  of  growth.  Good  hotel  accommodations  can  be  had  here. 
It  is  the  pleasure-resort  of  large  numbers  of  Northern  and  Western  people,  who 
come  to  enjoy  the  fine  hunting  and  fishing.  The  tarpon,  or  silver-king,  is  found 
in  large  numbers  from  the  15th  of  April  until  the  1st  of  August.  Trout,  sheep- 
head,  redfish,  and  croakers  are  innumerable  ;  while  the  principal  game  are  duck, 
geese,  and  brant,  which  make  their  feeding-grounds  in  this  vicinity. 


Route   105.]  THE    GEEAT    LAKES.  i61 


104.  St.  Louis  to  San  Francisco. 

The  journey  from  St.  Louis  to  San  Francisco  may  be  made  by  two 
routes,  either  one  of  which  may  be  recommended.  That  via  the  Missouri 
Pacific  R.  R.  main  line  runs  four  express  trains  with  sleeping-car  sei'vice 
daily  to  Kansas  City  and  to  Pueblo  and  Denver,  connecting  at  Kansas 
City  with  Union  Pacific  R.  R.,  running  through  cars  between  St.  Louis, 
Ogden,  and  Salt  Lake  City,  connecting  there  with  Southern  Pacific  R.  R. 
for  San  Francisco  (see  Route  90). 

Another  route  (the  "Frisco  line")  is  via  the  St.  Louis  &  San  Francis- 
co R.  R.  to  Burrton,  Kan.  (538  miles),  thence  via  A.,  T.  &  St.  F.  R.  R. 
to  Albuquerque,  N.  M.  (1,106  miles ;  see  Route  101a  and  6),  thence  via 
Atlantic  &  Pacific  R.  R.  and  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  San  Francisco 
(2,435  miles ;  see  Route  101  a).  Sleeping  and  dining  car  service  is  run 
through  on  this  route  the  whole  distance.  After  leaving  St.  Louis  via 
the  St.  Louis  &  San  Francisco  R.  R.,  the  first  station  of  much  impor- 
tance is  Springfield  (238  miles),  with  a  population  of  21,850,  and  beauti- 
fully located  on  high  ground.  It  is  the  most  important  town  of  S.  W.  Mis- 
souri. It  is  the  seat  of  Drury  College.,  and  has  a  fine  Court-House.,  12 
churches,  5  banks,  and  8  newspapers.  Here  also  are  large  machine-shops, 
engine  and  boiler  works,  and  woolen  and  cotton  mills.  Here  junction  is 
made  with  the  Kansas  City,  Fort  Scott  &  Memphis  R.  R.  At  Monett  {2S2 
miles)  connection  is  made  with  the  Texas  Div.,  and  in  5  miles  we  reach 
Fierce  City,  the  point  of  junction  with  the  Kansas  Div.  This  place  has 
2,511  population,  and  is  growing  rapidly.  Carthage  (314  miles)  is  an 
important  place  ^  mile  S.  of  Spring  River,  which  furnishes  fine  water- 
power,  driving  flour-mills,  woolen-mills,  machine-shops,  and  manufactories 
of  plows,  carriages,  etc.  The  population  is  7,981.  Connection  is  made 
here  with  the  Missouri  Pacific  R.  R.  At  Oswego  (360  miles)  connec- 
tion is  made  with  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  R.  R.,  and  at  Cherry- 
vale  (387  miles)  with  the  Southern  Kansas  and  Kansas  City,  Fort  Scott  k 
Gulf  R.  Rs.  Wichita.,  Kan.  (505  miles),  is  a  flourishing  place  of  1,827 
people ;  and  at  Burrton  (538  miles)  we  reach  the  point  of  junction  with 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R.  R.,  the  St.  Louis  &  San  Francisco  train 
taking  the  track  of  that  railroad  for  its  further  journey.  For  particulars 
of  the  route  hence  to  San  Francisco,  see  Route  101  h  (Burrton  to  La  Junta, 
Colorado)  and  Route  101  a  (La  Junta  to  San  Francisco). 

The  main  line  of  the  St.  Lonis  &  San  Francisco  R.  R.  is  now  completed  to 
Sapulpa,  I.  T.  The  Atlantic  &  Pacific  R.  R.  is  projected  to  be  completed  from 
Albuquerque,  N.  M.,  to  Sapulpa.  When  this  is  accomplished  it  will  give  the 
St.  Louis  &  San  Francisco' R.  R.  control  of  the  shortest  thrcugh-line  between 
New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia,  and  other  Eastern  points  and  San  Francisco. 

105.  The  Great  Lakes. 

Lakes  Ontario,  Erie,  Huron,  Michigan,  and  Superior  are  known  as 
the  "  Great  Lakes,"  and  are  the  largest  iDodies  of  fresh  water  in  the 
world.  They  are  part  of  one  great  system  of  continental  drainage, 
and  are  connected  in  such  a  manner  that  one  and  the  same  boat  can 


462  THE   GEE  AT   LAKES.  [Route  105. 

traverse  them  almost  from  end  to  end.  Lake  Ontario,  however,  is 
cut  off  from  the  others  by  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and,  being  the  least 
attractive  of  the  five,  is  seldom  included  in  the  regular  routes  of  summer 
travel.  The  tour  of  the  lake  may  be  made  in  connection  with  the  tour 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  by  taking  the  Royal  Mail  Steamers  of  the  Canadian 
Navigation  Co.  at  Hamilton^  instead  of  at  Kingston  (see  Route  60).  A 
steamer  leaves  Hamilton  daily  at  9  a.  m.,  stopping  at  Toronto,  Port 
Hope,  and  Cobourg,  and  reaching  Kingston,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  lake, 
at  5.30  o'clock  next  morning.  Lakes  Erie,  Huron,  and  Superior  may 
be  included  in  a  single  tour,  and  afford  one  of  the  most  delightful  trips 
that  can  be  taken  in  this  country  during  the  summer.  The  steamers  of 
the  Erie  &  Western  Transportation  Co.  are  swift,  strong,  commodious, 
and  handsomely  furnished.  These  steamers  leave  Buffalo,  Erie,  Cleve- 
land, and  Detroit.  They  may  be  taken  at  any  one  of  these  places,  or 
at  Port  Huron  or  Sault  Ste.  Marie.  In  the  following  description  of  the 
route  we  shall  suppose  ourselves  to  be  starting  from  Buffalo,  at  the 
E.  end  of  Lake  Erie,  which  is  fully  described  in  Route  40.  Excursion 
steamers  leave  Buffalo  on  Mondays,  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays 
for  Lake  Superior,  making  the  round  trip  in  two  weeks  (fare,  $50). 

take  Erie. 

"Among  the  five  great  lakes  of  the  Western  Chain,"  says  a  writer 
in  "  Picturesque  America,"  "  Erie  occupies  the  fourth  place  as  regards 
size,  the  last  place  in  point  of  beauty,  and  no  place  at  all  in  romance." 
For  the  rest,  the  lake  is  250  miles  long,  60  wide,  less  than  90  ft.  in 
average  depth,  and  564  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  the  shallow- 
est and  most  dangerous  of  the  entire  chain  of  the  Great  Lakes.  It  can 
be  avoided  at  the  cost  of  a  10  or  12  hours'  railway  journey,  but  then  the 
tourist  loses  the  pleasure  of  the  Detroit  River  trip. 

After  leaving  Buffalo,  the  scenery  for  a  time  is  uninteresting,  as  the 
steamer  does  not  approach  near  enough  to  the  land  to  enable  us  to  see 
anything,  except  when  entering  and  leaving  port,  and  many  of  the 
steamers  make  no  stops  until  reaching  Detroit.  For  the  convenience 
of  the  ti^aveler  who  may  be  upon  a  boat  making  all  the  landings,  brief 
mention  will  be  made  of  the  principal  ones  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  lake. 
Dunkirk  (42  miles  from  Buffalo)  has  a  good  harbor,  and  is  described 
in  Route  41.  Erie  (90  miles)  is  situated  on  "that  sturdy  little  elbow 
which  Pennsylvania  has  pushed  up  to  the  lake-shore,  as  if  determined 
to  have  a  port  somewhere,  on  fresh  water  if  not  on  salt.''  It  is  the 
terminus  of  the  Philadelphia  &  Erie  Div.  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R. 
(Route  53),  and  has  a  very  large  and  beautiful  harbor,  formed  by  what 
was  once  a  long,  narrow  peninsula,  but  is  now  an  island.  The  bar  at 
the  mouth  has  been  dredged  away  so  as  to  afford  a  good  channel,  and 
Erie  is  a  United  States  naval  station.  It  was  here  that  Commodore 
Perry  built  his  fleet,  and  here  he  brought  his  prizes  after  the  battle  of 
Lake  Erie,  in  September,  1813.  On  the  bank  above,  the  embankments 
of  the  old  French  fort,  Presque  Isle,  can  be  traced.  For  description  of 
the  city  see  Route  53.  Dotted  along  the  coast  of  the  lake  are  numer- 
ous lighthouses,  standing  on  lonely  islets  and   rocky  ledges,  wherever 


Route  105.]  THE    GREAT    LAKES.  463 

they  can  command  a  wide  sweep  of  the  horizon.  To  the  traveler  they 
appear  both  picturesque  and  friendly.  There  is  almost  always  one  in 
view ;  and,  a  pillar  of  cloud  by  day  and  of  fire  by  night,  they  greet  the 
voyager  as  he  journeys,  one  fading  astern  as  the  next  shines  out  ahead. 
The  light  at  Erie  is  visible  for  a  distance  of  20  miles.  Cleveland 
(185  miles)  is  universally  considered  the  most  beautiful  city  on  the 
Great  Lakes.  It  stands  upon  a  high  bluff,  and  a  good  view  of  it  is 
had  from  the  water ;  though  it  is  so  embowered  in  trees  that  little  save 
the  spires  of  the  churches  can  be  seen  through  the  green.  Steamers 
usually  make  a  stay  of  several  hours  at  Cleveland,  and  give  passengers 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  city.  It  is  fully  described  in  Route  67, 
W,  of  Cleveland  the  coast  grows  more  picturesque ;  the  shore  is  high 
and  precipitous,  and  the  streams  come  rushing  down  in  falls  and  rapids. 
Seven  miles  from  the  city  is  Rocky  River,  which  flows  through  a  deep 
gorge  between  perpendicular  cliffs  that  jut  boldly  into  the  lake  and 
command  a  wide  prospect,  "  Here  is  the  most  extensive  and  unbroken 
view  of  Lake  Erie ;  Black  River  Point  is  seen  on  the  W.,  and  the  spires 
of  Cleveland  shine  out  against  the  green  curve  of  the  E,  shore ;  but 
far  away  toward  the  N,  stretches  the  unbroken  expanse  of  water,  and 
one  can  see  on  the  horizon-line  distant  sails,  which  are  still  only  in  mid- 
lake,  with  miles  of  blue  waves  beyond,"  W,  of  Rocky  River,  the 
Black,  Vermihon,  and  Huron  Rivers  flow  into  the  lake  through  ravines  of 
wild  beauty ;  and  then,  after  a  long  stretch  of  dreary  coast,  the  steamer 
approaches  Sandusky  ( Colton,  Shane  House,  West  House),  with  its  beau- 
tiful bay,  which  is  20  miles  long  and  5  or  6  wide,  Sandusky  has  a 
population  of  18,471,  and  is  handsomely  built  on  ground  rising  grad- 
ually from  the  shore,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  bay  and  lake. 
Beneath  its  site  is  an  inexhaustible  bed  of  excellent  limestone,  which 
is  extensively  employed  in  building  and  in  the  manufacture  of  lime. 
The  Court-House,  built  of  white  and  blue  limestone,  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  State,  The  city  is  celebrated  for  its  manufacture  of  articles 
of  wood,  of  which  handles,  spokes,  and  hubs,  "  bent  work "  for  car- 
riages, and  carpenters'  tools  are  the  most  important;  and  fresh  and 
salt  fish,  ice,  and  lumber  are  extensively  exported.  It  is  the  largest 
fresh-water  fish-market  in  the  United  States,  and  thousands  of  tons 
are  frozen  every  fall  to  supply  the  demand,  in  addition  to  the  great 
quantity  salted.  The  State  Fish  Hatchery  is  located  here,  and  3,000,000 
young  white-fish  are  annually  put  into  the  lake.  The  city  is  also  the  center 
of  one  of  the  most  important  vine-growing  districts  in  the  IT nited  States. 
Lakeside,  situated  on  the  lake-shore  just  outside  of  the  mouth  of 
Sandusky  Bay,  is  a  pleasant  resort,  with  a  fine  summer  hotel  and  a 
hundred  or  more  cottages.  This  is  a  great  rendezvous  for  camp-meet- 
ings and  Sunday-school  and  educational  gatherings.  The  Lake  Erie 
Div.  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (see  Route  70)  terminates  here,  and 
it  is  also  a  lake  outlet  of  the  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis 
R.  R,,  which  runs  to  Springfield,  0,,  and  thence  to  Indianapolis  and 
Peoria,  111. ;  and  of  the  Lake  Erie  &  Western  R.  R.,  by  which  connec- 
tions are  made  at  Bloomington,  III,  for  the  Northwest  and  Southwest. 
From  New  York,  Sandusky  is  reached  by  the  Lake  Shore  &  Michigan 


4:64:  THE    GREAT   LAKES.  [I^oi/te   105. 

Southern  R.  R.  and  its  Eastern  connections.  During  the  summer  sea- 
son there  is  daily  steamer  connection  with  Detroit,  Point  Au,  Pelee  Isl- 
and, and  the  Canada  shore. 

After  leaving  Sandusky,  the  steamer  speedily  reaches  the  *  Put-in- 
Bay  Islands,  a  beautiful  group,  15  or  more  in  number,  lying  in  the 
S.  W.  corner  of  Lake  Erie,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Detroit  River.  With- 
in a  few  years  past  these  islands  have  become  a  favorite  summer 
resort,  as  they  combine  all  the  advantages  of  pure  air,  bathing,  fishing, 
boating,  and  convenience  of  access  from  any  of  the  lake-cities.  From 
Detroit  there  is  a  daily  steamer  to  Kelly's  Island^  the  largest  of  the 
group.  Put-in-Bay  Island  has  several  large  summer  hotels,  including 
the  Beebe  House.,  the  Hunker  House ^  Park  Hotel,  and  Put-in-Bay  House. 
The  islands  are  noted  for  their  vineyards  and  the  superior  quality  of 
the  wine  produced ;  but  some  of  them  are  still  wild  and  uninhabited. 
Shortly  after  passing  the  islands  the  steamer  enters  the  Detroit  River. 

The  Detroit  and  St.  Clair  Rivers. 

There  are  15  .islands  within  the  first  12  miles  of  the  Detroit  River. 
Father  Hennepin,  who  passed  up  the  river  in  16'79,  enthusiastically 
writes :  "  The  islands  are  the  finest  in  the  world ;  the  strait  is  finer 
than  Niagara ;  the  banks  are  vast  meadows ;  and  the  prospect  is  ter- 
minated with  some  hills  crowned  with  vineyards,  trees  bearing  good 
fruit,  groves  and  forests  so  well  disposed  that  one  would  think  that 
Nature  alone  could  not  have  made,  Avithout  the  help  of  art,  so  charm- 
ing a  prospect."  Since  that  day,  "  art  "  has  done  something  to  mar 
the  freshness  of  the  scene ;  but  the  strait  still  affords  some  of  the  love- 
liest river  scenery  in  America.  The  river  is  broad,  varying  from  3 
miles  at  the  mouth  to  a  mile  in  width  at  the  city  of  Detroit ;  the  Cana- 
dian shore  rising  abruptly  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  from  20  to 
25  ft.,  the  American  shore  being  low,  and  in  some  places  marshy.  The 
only  island  calling  for  special  mention  is  Grosse  Me.,  which  is  a  favorite 
summer  resort  for  Detroiters,  who  find  here,  within  20  miles  of  their 
homes,  a  delightful  retreat  from  the  heat  and  dust  of  the  city.  The 
island  divides  the  river  into  two  channels,  which  are  known  as  Ameri- 
can and  Canadian ;  the  latter,  being  the  deepest,  is  used  by  the 
through-boats,  none  passing  on  the  American  side  except  to  touch  at 
Trenton  or  Gibraltar^  the  former  of  which  is  a  flourishing  place  noted 
for  its  shipbuilding.  Wyandotte,  Mich.  (15  miles  below  Detroit),  is  the 
site  of  extensive  rolling-mills,  which  may  be  said  to  have  created  the 
town.  Three  miles  below  the  steamboat-landing  at  Detroit,  the 
river  makes  a  sudden  turn,  and  the  city  comes  into  full  view.  On  the 
right  hand  is  the  village  of  Windsor,  in  Canada,  and  directly  opposite 
is  Fort  Wayne,  a  bastioned  redoubt,  mounted  with  heavy  ordnance. 
For  at  least  6  miles  above  the  fort  the  river-front  is  lined  with  mills, 
dry-docks,  ship-yards,  foundries,  grain-elevators,  railway-depots,  and 
warehouses ,  and,  on  the  level  plateau  above,  the  city  extends  inland 
for  2^  miles.  The  steamers  generally  stop  at  Detroit  several  hours, 
and  the  tourist  should  improve  this  opportunity  for  seeing  the  city, 
which  is  described  in  Route  66. 


Route  105.]  THE    GREAT   LAKES.  465 

Beyond  Detroit,  the  steamer  passes  Belle  Isle,  a  small  island  at  the 
head  of  the  river,  and  enters  Lake  St.  Clair,  which  is  25  miles  long 
and  about  the  same  distance  from  shore  to  shore.  It  is  shallow,  and  at 
the  upper  end,  where  the  river  St.  Clair  comes  in,  large  deposits  of  sand 
have  been  made,  known  as  "  The  Flats."  These  for  a  long  time  greatly 
impeded  navigation,  but  the  difficulty  has  been  lately  overcome  by  the 
construction  of  a  ship-canal  which  is  justly  regarded  as  a  triumph  of 
engineering  skill.  Around  the  shores  of  the  lake  are  large  fields  of  wild 
rice.  Here  immense  flocks  of  wild  ducks  swarm,  geese  are  found  in  the 
shooting-season,  and  the  waters  teem  with  fish.  Isle  la  Peche  (commonly 
known  as  "Peach  Island"),  near  the  lower  end  of  the  lake,  belongs  to 
Canada.  It  was  at  one  time  the  summer  home  of  the  celebrated  Indian 
chief  Pontiac.  The  St.  Clair  River  is  really  a  strait  through  which 
the  waters  of  Lake  Huron  take  their  way  toward  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
It  is  11  miles  long,  and  has  a  descent  in  that  distance  of  15  ft.,  which 
gives  a  current  of  3^  to  4  miles  an  hour.  The  scenery  along  the  St. 
Clair  is  beautiful,  the  banks  on  either  side  being  well  cultivated  or 
covered  with  a  thick  forest-growth.  There  are  several  small  towns 
along  the  river,  but  none  of  much  importance  (except  St.  Clair,  Mich.) 
until  we  reach  Port  Huron  [Huron  House),  a  port  of  entry  at  the 
mouth  of  Black  River,  which  runs  through  a  rich  pine-region,  and  down 
which  is  floated  the  lumber  that  supplies  the  numerous  saw-mills  at 
this  point.  The  trade  in  fish  is  important,  and  there  are  3  ship-yards 
and  2  dry-docks.  During  the  season  of  navigation  Port  Huron  is  con- 
nected by  daily  lines  of  steamers  with  Detroit,  Saginaw,  and  the  prin- 
cipal lake  and  river  ports.  Port  Sarnia,  a  Canadian  port  of  entry 
opposite  Port  Huron  (connected  by  ferry),  is  a  place  of  active  busi- 
ness, being  the  terminus  of  the  main  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 
and  also  of  the  southern  branch  of  that  road.  Two  miles  above  Port 
Huron,  between  Fort  Gratiot  (a  United  States  military  post)  and  Point 
Edward,  the  river  narrows  until  it  is  less  than  1,000  ft.  wide,  the  in- 
creased velocity  of  the  current  being  so  noticeable  that  the  descent 
of  the  water  can  be  seen  from  the  wharves  on  either  side.  Here  the 
Grand  Ti'unk  Railway  crosses  the  St.  Clair  River  on  a  handsome  bridge, 
passing  Avhich  the  steamer  enters 

Lake  Huron. 

Lake  Huron  lies  between  the  43d  and  46th  degrees  of  N^.  latitude,  adn 
is  250  miles  in  length  from  the  head  of  the  St.  Clair  River  to  the  Straits 
of  Mackinaw,  and  100  miles  wide.  It  is  574  ft.  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean,  and  varies  in  depth  from  100  to  750  ft,  Georgian  Bay,  at  the 
.  N.  E.  side  of  the  lake,  is  very  large,  and  lies  entirely  within  the  Domin- 
ion of  Canada ;  Saginaw  Bay,  on  the  S.  W.,  being  within  the  limits  of 
the  State  of  Michigan.  Tawas  Bay  is  a  good  harbor  on  the  S.  W.  side 
of  Saginaw  Bay.  Thunder  Bay  is  farther  N.,  and  has  the  Thunder 
Bay  Islands  at  its  mouth.  The  stormiest  part  of  the  lake  is  between 
the  Saginaw  and  Georgian  Bays,  where  the  wind  often  sweeps  with 
terrific  violence.  But  few  islands  are  seen,  and  the  traveler  who  has 
never  been  at  sea  can  form  some  idea  of  what  the  ocean  is,  for  dur- 
30 


4:66  THE    GREAT    LAKES.  [Eoute   105. 

ing  a  portion  of  the  voyage  no  land  can  be  seen  even  from  the  mast- 
head ;  the  boundless  expanse  of  water,  dotted  here  and  there  with  a 
distant  sail,  stretching  on  every  side. 

Mackinac  Island. 

Mackinac  is  conveniently  reached  from  Detroit  by  steamer  four 
times  a  week,  and  close  connection  is  made  with  the  steamer-service 
from  Cleveland.  There  is  also  a  daily  line  of  steamers  between  Colling- 
wood,  on  Georgian  Bay,  one  of  the  termini  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Eailway, 
and  Chicago,  touching  at  the  island ;  and  a  mail-boat  3  times  a  week 
from  Port  Sarnia,  on  Lake  Ontario.  By  rail  it  can  be  reached  from 
Detroit  by  the  Mackinaw  Div.  of  the  Michigan  Central  K.  R. ;  also 
by  the  Detroit,  Grand  Haven  &  Michigan  R.  R,  to  Grand  Haven, 
Mich.,  and  thence  by  the  Grand  Rapids  k  Indiana  R.  R.  to  Mack- 
inac City.  From  Chicago  it  is  reached  by  the  Chicago  &  Northwest- 
ern R.  R.  to  Xegaunee,  Mich.,  and  thence  by  the  Duluth,  South  Shore 
&  Atlantic  R.  R.  to  St.  Ignace. 

Mackinac  (also  written  Mackinaw,  and  formerly  Michilimackinac)  is 
an  island  in  the  Strait  of  Mackinac,  which  connects  Lakes  Michigan  and 
Huron,  260  miles  N.  W.  of  Detroit,  and  about  300  N.  of  Chicago.  It 
is  about  3  miles  long  and  2  wide,  is  rough  and  rocky,  and  has  800  in- 
habitants. It  is  an  old  military  post  of  the  United  States,  as  well  as  a 
delightful  and  popular  place  of  summer  resort.  The  waters  surround- 
ing the  island  are  wonderfully  clear  and  pellucid,  and  teem  with  fish  of 
delicious  flavor.  The  fisherman  sees  the  fish  toying  with  his  bait,  and 
the  active  little  Indian  boys  on  the  piers  are  always  ready  to  dive  for 
any  coins  the  visitor  may  throw  into  the  water  for  them.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  the  decayed  and  antiquated  village  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff  are 
mainly  dependent  on  their  seines  and  fishing-nets  for  support,  and  upon 
the  money  spent  every  summer  by  tourists,  there  being  four  good  hotels 
and  several  stores  where  Indian  curiosities,  agates,  photographs,  and- 
other  mementos  of  the  place  are  offered  for  sale.  Boats  for  pleasure- 
excursions  may  always  be  had ;  and  the  usual  accessories  of  a  summer 
resort,  such  as  bowling-alleys,  billiard-rooms,  etc.,  are  pi"ovided  at  the 
best  hotels  (the  Astor  Hoxine^  Grand  Hotel^  and  the  Mission  House).  On 
the  cliff  over  the  village  is  Fort  Mackinac  (built  in  1780),  200  ft.  above 
,  the  level  of  the  lake,  and  overlooking  the  village  and  beautiful  harbor. 
In  rear  of  and  about  100  ft.  above  this  fort  are  the  ruins  of  old  Fort 
Holmes,  and  in  their  immediate  neighborhood,  320  feet  above  the  lake, 
the  highest  point  on  the  island,  stands  a  signal-station.  The  view  from 
this  elevation  is  very  fine. 

"  The  natural  scenery  of  Mackinac,"  says  a  writer  whom  we  have 
already  several  times  quoted,  "  is  charming.  The  geologist  finds  mys- 
teries in  the  masses  of  calcareous  rock  dipping  at  unexpected  angles ; 
the  antiquarian  feasts  his  eyes  on  the  Druidical  circles  of  the  ancient 
stones ;  the  invalid  sits  on  the  chff's  edge  in  the  vivid  sunshine  and 
breathes  in  the  buoyant  air  with  delight,  or  rides  slowly  over  the  old 
military  roads,  with  the  spicery  of  cedars  and  juniper  alternating  with 
the   fresh  forest-odors  of  young  maples  and  beeches.      The  haunted- 


Route  105.]  THE    GREAT    LAKES.  467 

birches  abound,  and  on  the  crags  grow  the  weird  larches  beckoning 
with  their  long  fingers,  the  most  human  tree  of  all.  Bluebells  on  their 
hair-like  stems  swing  from  the  rocks,  fading  at  a  touch,  and  in  the 
deep  w^oods  are  the  Indian  pipes,  but  the  ordinary  wild-flowers  are  not 
to  be  found.  Over  toward  the  British  landing  stand  the  Gothic  spires 
of  the  blue-green  spruces,  and  now  and  then  an  Indian  trail  crosses  the 
road,  worn  deep  by  the  feet  of  the  red  men,  when  the  Fairy  Island  was 
their  favorite  and  sacred  resort."  Chief  among  the  curiosities  of  the 
island  is  *Arch  Rock,  on  the  E.  side,  a  natural  bridge  149  ft.  high 
by  less  than  3  ft.  thick,  excavated  in  a  projecting  angle  of  the  limestone 
cliff.  The  beds  forming  the  summit  of  the  arch  are  cut  off  from  direct 
connection  with  the  main  rock  by  a  narrow  gorge  of  no  great  depth. 
The  portion  supporting  the  arch  on  the  N.  side,  and  the  curve  of  the 
arch  itself,  are  comparatively  fragile,  and  can  not  long  resist  the  action 
of  rain  and  frosts,  which  in  this  latitude,  and  on  a  rock  thus  consti- 
tuted, produce  great  ravages  every  season.  Fairy  Arch  is  of  similar 
formation  to  Arch  Rock,  and  lifts  from  the  sands  with  a  grace  and 
beauty  that  justify  the  name  bestowed  upon  it.  The  Lover\s  Leap  is  a 
rock  about  a  mile  W.  of  the  village,  having  a  vertical  height  of  145 
ft.  The  Indian  legend  to  which  the  rock  owes  its  name  is  that  a  young 
squaw,  standing  on  this  point  waiting  for  the  return  of  her  lover  from 
battle,  saw  the  warriors  carrying  his  dead  body  to  the  island,  and  in  her 
grief  threw  herself  into  the  lake.  Rohertsori'H  Folly  is  a  precipitous 
cliff  E.  of  the  village,  120  ft.  high.  Its  name  is  taken  from  the  advent- 
ure of  a  British  officer  who  persisted  in  following  the  ever-fleeing  figuie 
of  a  most  beautiful  maiden,  with  whom,  after  repeated  disappointments, 
at  length  coming  up  at  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  where  she  stood  with 
her  back  to  the  water,  he  sprang  toward  her  and  clasped  her  to  his 
arms,  only  to  be  plunged  with  her,  starting  suddenly  back,  upon  the 
rocks  below,  where  the  next  morning  his  mangled  body  was  found 
alone.  The  Sugar -Loaf  is  a  solitary  conical  rock,  rising  134  ft.  from 
the  plateau  upon  which  it  stands,  and  284  ft.  above  the  lake.  The 
DeviVs  Kitchen  is  a  curious  cave.  The  British  Landing  is  a  favorite 
resort  for  picnics,  and  received  its  name  from  being  the  point  where 
the  British  landed  when  they  captured  the  island  in  1812.  (Mackinac, 
the  post-town  in  Mackinac  Co.,  must  be  distinguished  carefully  from 
Mackinaw,  in  Cheboygan  Co.,  on  the  8.  side  of  the  strait.) 


The  regular  lake-steamers  pass  a  considerable  distance  to  the  E.  of 
Mackinaw  Island,  and  enter  the  St.  Mary's  River,  a  remarkably 
beautiful  stream  62  miles  long,  and  forming  the  only  outlet  to  Lake 
Superior.  It  is  a  succession  of  expansions  into  lakes  and  contractions 
into  rivers,  and  is  dotted  with  beautiful  forest-clad  islands,  while  a  few 
small  towns  are  scattered  along  either  shore.  The  Ste.  Marie  Rapids 
are  avoided  by  a  ship-canal,  and  6  miles  beyond  the  steamer  traverses 
the  picturesque  Waiska  Bay^  and,  passing  between  Iroquois  Point  on 
the  American  and  Gros  Cap  on  the  Canadian  side,  enters  the  vast 
reaches  of 


468  THE    GKEAT   LAKES.  [Eoute   105. 

Lake  Superior. 

Lake  Superior,  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  in  the  world,  is  360 
miles  long  and  140  miles  wide  in  its  widest  part,  having  an  average 
width  of  85  miles,  a  circuit  of  1,500  miles,  and  an  estimated  area  of 
32,000  square  miles.  It  is  800  ft.  deep  in  its  deepest  portion — the 
bottom  there  being  200  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  ocean.  It  receives  its 
waters  from  about  200  rivers  and  streams,  draining  an  area  of  100,000 
square  miles.  It  contains  a  number  of  islands  in  the  E.  and  W.  por- 
tions, but  very  few  in  the  central.  The  most  important  of  these  are  He 
Royal,  The  Apostles,  and  Grand  Island,  belonging  to  the  United  States, 
and  Michipicoten,  He  St.  Ignace,  and  Pie  Islands,  belonging  to  Canada. 
The  early  French  Jesuit  fathers,  who  first  explored  and  described  this 
great  lake,  and  pubhshed  an  account  of  it  in  Paris  in  1636,  speak  of  its 
shores  as  resembling  a  bended  bow,  the  N.  shore  being  the  arc,  the  S. 
shore  the  cord,  and  Keweenaw  Point,  projecting  from  the  S.  shore  to 
near  the  middle  of  the  lake,  the  arrow.  The  coast  of  Lake  Superior  is 
mostly  formed  of  rocks  of  various  kinds  and  of  different  geological 
groups.  With  the  exception  of  sandy  bars  at  the  mouth  of  some  of  the 
rivers  and  small  streams,  the  whole  coast  of  the  lake  is  rock-bound ;  and 
in  some  places,  but  more  particularly  on  the  N.  shore,  mountain-masses 
of  considerable  elevation  rear  themselves  from  the  water's  edge,  while 
mural  precipices  and  beetling  crags  oppose  themselves  to  the  surges  of 
this  mighty  lake,  and  threaten  the  unfortunate  mariner  who  may  be 
caught  in  a  storm  upon  a  lee-shore  with  almost  inevitable  destruction. 
The  waters  are  of  surprising  clearness,  very  cold,  and  are  filled  with  the 
most  delicious  fish. 

Once  having  passed  White-Fish  Pointy  with  its  "  sand  dunes  "  or 
hills,  and  its  tall  lighthouse,  the  steamer  usually  takes  a  course  for 
Point  cm  Sable,  50  miles  beyond,  keeping  in  sight  of  the  Michigan  shore, 
which  here  presents  a  succession  of  desolate  sand-hills,  varying  from  300 
to  500  ft.  in  height.  Twenty  miles  beyond  the  Point  are  the  famous 
**  Pictured  Rocks,  a  wonderful  exhibition  of  the  denuding  effect  of 
water,  combined  with  the  stains  imparted  by  certain  minerals.  They 
extend  for  a  distance  of  about  5  miles,  rising  in  most  places  vertically 
from  the  water's  edge  to  a  height  of  from  50  to  200  ft.,  there  being  no 
beach  whatever.  When  the  weather  permits,  the  steamers  run,  near 
enough  to  give  passengers  a  cursory  view  of  these  great  curiosities ;  but 
in  order  to  be  able  to  appreciate  their  extraordinary  character,  the  tour- 
ist should  leave  the  steamer  at  Mmiesing  and  visit  them  in  a  small  boat. 
As  we  can  not  spare  the  space  required  for  such  a  detailed  description 
of  these  rocks  as  they  deserve,  we  must  content  ourselves  with  briefly 
mentioning  the  more  conspicuous  features  in  order  from  E.  to  W.  (the 
visitor  from  Munesing  approaches  them  in  the  opposite  direction).  The 
Chapel  is  a  vaulted  apartment  in  the  rock,  30  or  40  ft.  above  the  level 
of  the  lake.  An  arched  roof  of  sandstone  rests  on  4  columns  of  rock  so 
as  to  leave  an  apartment  about  40  ft.  in  diameter  and  the  same  in  height. 
Within  are  a  pulpit  and  altar,  perfect  as  if  fashioned  by  the  hand  of 
man.     A  little  to  the  west  of  the  Chapel,  Chapel  River  falls  into  the 


Route  105.}  THE   CtREAT   LAKES.  469 

lake  over  a  rocky  ledge  15  ft.  high.  The  *Graud  Portal,  which  ap- 
pears next,  is  the  most  imposing  feature  of  the  series.  It  is  100  ft. 
high  by  168  broad  at  the  water-level,  and  the  cliff  in  which. it  is  cut 
rises  above  the  arch,  making  the  whole  height  185  ft.  The  great  cave, 
whose  door  is  the  portal,  extends  back  in  the  shape  of  a  vaulted  room, 
the  arches  of  the  roof  built  of  yellow  limestone,  and  the  sides  fretted 
into  fantastic  shapes  by  the  waves  driving  in  during  storms,  and  dashing 
a  hundred  feet  toward  the  reverberating  roof.  Within  this  cave  there 
is  a  remarkably  clear  echo.  Sail  Rock  is  about  a  mile  W.  of  the  Grand 
Portal,  and  consists  of  a  group  of  detached  rocks  bearing  a  resemblance 
to  the  jib  and  mainsail  of  a  sloop  when  spread ;  so  much  so  that,  when 
viewed  from  a  distance,  with  a  full  glare  of  light  upon  it,  while  the  cliff 
in  the  rear  is  left  in  the  shade,  the  illusion  is  perfect.  The  height  of 
the  block  is  about  40  ft.  Passing  to  the  westward,  we  skirt  the  cUffs 
worn  into  thousands  of  strange  forms,  colored  deep  brown,  yellow,  and 
gray,  bright  blue,  and  green.  They  are  arranged  in  vertical  and  parallel 
bands,  extending  to  the  water's  edge,  and  are  brightest  when  the  streams 
are  full  of  water.  3Iiner''s  Castle,  5  miles  W.  of  the  Chapel,  and  just 
W.  of  the  mouth  of  Miner's  River,  is -the  western  end  of  the  Pictured 
Rocks.  It  resembles  an  old  turreted  castle  with  an  arched  portal.  The 
height  of  the  advanced  mass  in  which  the  Gothic  gateway  may  be  recog- 
nized is  about  VO  ft.,  that  of  the  main  wall  forming  the  background  being 
140  ft.  The  coast  of  Pictures  is  not  yet  half  explored,  nor  its  beauties 
half  discovered.  "  In  one  place  there  stands  a  majestic  profile  looking 
toward  the  north — a  woman's  face,  the  Empress  of  the  Lake.  It  is  the 
pleasure  of  her  royal  highness  to  visit  the  rock  only  by  night,  a  Diana  of 
the  New  World.  In  the  daytime,  search  is  vain ;  she  will  not  reveal 
herself ;  but  when  the  low-down  moon  shines  across  the  water,  behold, 
she  appears !  She  looks  to  the  north,  not  sadly,  not  sternly,  like  the 
Old  Man  of  the  White  Mountains,  but  benign  of  aspect,  and  so  beautiful 
in  her  rounded,  womanly  curves,  that  the  late  watcher  on  the  beach  falls 
into  the  dream  of  Endymion ;  but  when  he  wakes  in  the  gray  dawn  he 
finds  her  gone,  and  only  a  shapeless  rock  glistens  in  the  rays  of  the 
rising  sun." 

Leaving  Munesing  and  the  Pictures,  and  going  westward  past  the 
Temples  of  Au  Train  and  the  Laughing -Fish  Point,  the  city  of  Mar- 
quette (Clifton  House,  Hotel  Marquette),  the  entrepot  of  the  Marquette 
Iron  Region,  comes  into  view.  This  important  center  is  on  the  Duluth, 
South  Shore  &  Atlantic  R.  R.,  and  is  by  this  route  easy  of  access  from 
Mackinac;  or  from  Chicago  via  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  system, 
which  connects  at  Negaunee  with  the  Duluth,  South  Shore  &  Atlantic 
R.  R.  It  has  a  large  and  picturesque  harbor,  is  well  built,  and  has  a 
population  of  9.093.  It  is  the  chief  depot  of  supplies  for  the  iron- 
mines  of  the  Upper  Peninsula,  and  the  principal  point  of  shipment 
for  the  ore.  There  are  many  blast-furnaces  and  rolling-mills  within 
the  city  limits  and  in  the  vicinity.  The  place  has  great  attractions  for 
the  invalid  and  tourist,  in  its  healthy,  invigorating  atmosphere,  beauti- 
ful walks  and  drives,  fine  scenery,  boating,  and  fishing.  Persons  spend- 
ing several  weeks  at  Marquette  can  pass  the  time  very  agreeably  in 


470  THE    GKEAT    LAKES.  [Eoute   105. 

making  excursions  to  Grand  Island  and  the  Pictured  Rocks^  to  Carp 
River.,  Bead  River,  and  Chocolat  River,  all  of  which  offer  fine  trout- 
fishing.  Another  excursion  is  by  the  Dulutb,  South  Shore  &  Atlantic 
R.  R.  to  Champion  on  Lake  Michigami  (32  miles),  where  there  are  good 
boating,  hunting,  and  fishing,  but  poor  accommodations  for  travelers. 
A  visit  may  also  be  made  to  the  iron^regions  by  the  same  route,  which 
has  a  branch  to  Houghton.  Beyond  Marquette  the  steamer  makes  no 
stops  until  it  reaches  Portage  Lake,  passing  on  the  way  Granite  Island 
(12  miles  from  Marquette);  8tanard''s  Rock,  a  very  dangerous  granite 
ledge  ;  the  Huron  Islands,  a  picturesque  group ;  Huron  Bay  and  Point 
Ahbeye  ;  and  crossing  Keweenaiv  Bay  to  Portage  Entry.  The  Entry  was 
originally  a  narrow,  crooked  channel,  leading  from  Keweenaw  Bay  into 
Portage  Lake ;  but  the  channel  has  been  deepened,  and  in  conjunction 
with  the  Portage  Lake  ship-canal  saves  the  circuit  of  120  miles  around 
Keweenaw  Point.  In  digging  the  canal  indubitable  evidences  were 
found  that  Portage  Lake  was  once  an  arm  of  Lake  Superior,  cutting  off 
Keweenaw  Point,  which  was  then  a  large  island.  The  lake  is  about  20 
miles  long,  and  from  -J  to  2  miles  in  width.  Ontonagon  (336  miles 
from  Sault  Ste.  Marie)  is  a  small  village  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the 
same  name,  and  is  a  station  on  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  Ry.  Twenty 
miles  beyond,  the  Porcupine  Mountain,  1,300  ft.  high,  is  a  conspicuous 
object;  and  70  miles  from  Ontonagon  are  the  *  Apostles'  Islands, 
a  large  and  beautiful  group,  27  in  number.  The  clay  and  sandstone 
cliffs  have  been  worn  into  strange  shapes  by  the  action  of  the  water, 
and  the  islands  are  covered  with  fine  forest-trees.  The  fishing  here  is 
excellent,  and  trout,  white-fish,  and  siskowit  are  caught  in  abundance. 
At  Bayfield,  a  Wisconsin  town  on  the  mainland  opposite,  is  a  secure 
and  spacious,  harbor.  At  the  head  of  Lake  Superior  the  8t.  Louis, 
River  comes  ,in,  and  on  the  lake-shore  near  its  mouth  is  Dufuth  (hotels 
Cheltinghami  Spaulding,  St.  Louis)  (1,235  miles  from  Buffalo),  with 
33,1 15  inhab  tants.  It  derives  its  commercial  importance  from  its  situa- 
tion at  the  extreme  west  point  of  the  Great  Lakes  ;  it  is  a  terminus  of 
the  St.  Paul  &  Duluth  R.  R. ;  of  the  East  Minnesota  Div.  of  the  North- 
ern Pacific  R.  R, ;  the  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Omaha  R.  R. ; 
St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Manitoba  R.  R. ;  and  the  Duluth  &  Iron  Range 
R.  R.,  the  latter  running  N.  to  Lake  Vermilion  Iron  Mines.  It  is  well 
built,  has  16  grain-elevators,  with  2  storage-houses  with  capacity  of  21,- 
000,000  bushels,  churches,  banks,  and  newspapers.  Large  ship-yards  are 
located  here,  and  several  steel  vessels  have  already  been  built.  Among 
the  public  buildings  are  2  Opera-Houses,  St.  Luke''s  Hospital,  and  8 
school-buildings,  and  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Exchange  Buildings. 
The  manufactures,  principally  in  the  way  of  lumber,  are  extensive. 

The  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior  is  comparatively  an  unknown 
region.  The  easiest  way  of  seeing  it  is  by  taking  the  steamers  of  the  Erie 
&  Western  Transportation  Co.  to  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  whence  the  Canadian 
steamers  may  be  taken  to  the  more  important  points ;  but  if  the  tour- 
ist desires  to  visit  any  number  of  the  many  places  of  interest,  he  must 
hire  a  small  boat  and  two  or  three  experienced  men  as  a  crew.  North 
of  Duluth  the  shore  rises  into  grand  cliffs  of  greenstone  and  porphyry, 


Konte  105  \  the    GREAT    LAKES.  ^71 

800  to  1,000  ft.  in  height.  The  *  Palisades  (58  miles  from  Duluth) 
are  a  remarkable  rock  formation,  presenting  vertical  columns  from 
60  to  100  ft.  high  and  from  1  to  6  ft.  in  diameter.  Near  by.  Bap- 
tism River  comes  dashing  down  to  the  lake  in  a  series  of  wild  water- 
falls. Pigeon  River  (113  miles)  is  the  boundary-line  between  the 
United  States  and  Canada ;  and  here  begins  the  "  Grand  Portage," 
by  which,  through  a  series  of  lakes  and  streams,  the  very  names 
of  which  have  a  wild  sound  (Rainy  Lake,  Lake  of  the  Woods,  and 
Winnepeg),  the  voyageurs  are  enabled,  with  short  portages,  to  take 
their  canoes  through  to  the  Saskatchewan  and  Manitoba.  The  whole 
Canadian  coast  is  gi'andly  beautiful  in  every  variety  of  point,  bay, 
island,  and  isolated  cliff.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Kaministiquia  is  Fort 
William^  formerly  an  important  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  but 
now  the  lake  terminus  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  and  a  divisional 
point  of  that  road.  At  Fort  William  the  company  has  constructed  two 
enormous  grain-elevators  (and  is  erecting  a  third),  a  hotel,  and  other  edi- 
fices connected  with  the  operation  of  the  road,  while  private  enterprise 
is  rapidly  building  a  city  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  station. 
About  6  miles  E.  round  the  bay  is  Fort  Arthur^  the  gathering-place  of  the 
Red  River  Expedition  in  18*70  under  Colonel  Wolseley,  and  subsequently, 
during  the  construction  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  a  very  busy 
town,  but  now  depending  principally  on  the  rich  mineral  discoveries  of 
the  neighborhood  and  the  trade  arising  from  them.  Across  Thunder 
Bay^  about  16  miles  distant.  Thunder  Cape  is  seen,  a  basaltic  clifE  1,350 
ft.  high,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano. 
A  short  distance  to  the  east  of  Thunder  Cape  is  Silver  Island^  a  small 
islet,  from  which  an  enormous  quantity  of  silver  has  been  taken,  the 
story  of  its  productiveness  reading  like  pages  of  Monte  Cristo.  Fol- 
lowing the  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  eastward  from  Port 
Arthur,  the  route  keeps  Lake  Superior  in  sight  at  intervals  for  a  consid- 
erable distance,  crossing  numerous  streams  noted  for  their  trout-fishing, 
and  passing  through  country  wild  and  rugged,  but  much  prized  by  sports- 
men. On  this  portion  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  some  of  the  most 
interesting  illustrations  of  difficulties  in  railway-building  successfully 
overcome  occur.  Seventy  miles  east  of  Fort  William  is  Nepigon  Bay^ 
a  large  indentation  of  Lake  Superior  (40  miles  long  by  15  wide),  which 
with  the  river  and  lake  of  the  same  name,  is  far-famed  for  its  trout- 
fishing.  All  through  the  summer  fishermen  singly  or  in  parties  make 
their  way  (from  the  west  by  Fort  William  and  Port  Arthur)  to  Nepigon^ 
Steele  River ^  and  other  streams  falling  into  LaTce  Superior^  and  in  the 
autumn  sportsmen  from  all  parts  make  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
stations  their  bases  of  operation  for  hunting  caribou,  deer,  bear,  etc. 
By  this  route  hunters  and  fishermen  from  points  west  of  Lake  Huron 
reach  the  hunting  and  fishing  country  of  the  upper  Ottawa  and  its 
tributaries.  At  Fie  River  (276  miles)  is  a  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  and  here  the  shore-line  bends  to  the  S.  and  the  lake  begins  to 
narrow  toward  the  Sault.  At  Otter  Head  (30  miles  S.  of  Pic  River)  the 
cliff  rises  in  a  sheer  precipice  1,000  ft.  from  the  water,  and  on  its  sum- 
mit stands  a  rock  like  a  monument,  which  on  one  side  shows  the  profile 


472  ST.    PAUL   TO   THE   PACIFIC   CuAST.      [Route  106. 

of  a  man,  and  on  the  other  the  distinct  outline  of  an  otter's  head.  The 
Indians  never  passed  this  point  without  stopping  to  make  their  offerings 
to  its  manitou.  Still  farther  S.  is  the  broad  bay  of  Michipicoten,  or  the 
"  Bay  of  Hills  "  ;  and  here  is  another  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 
There  are  many  islands  in  this  portion  of  the  lake,  among  the  most  im- 
portant of  which  are  Isle  Royale  (45  miles  long  and  8  to  12  wide),  Saint 
Tgnace^  and  Michipicoten  Island,  the  latter  of  which  will  probably  become 
a  favorite  place  of  summer  resort. 

106.  St.  Paul  or  Buluth  to  Portland,  Ore.,  and  the 
Pacific  Coast. 

Via  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R. 

The  Northern  Pacific  E.  R.,  completed  in  1883,  is  now  one  of  the  greatest 
railroad  systems  in  the  United  States,  and  is  destined  to  be  still  greater,  as  it 
runs  through  an  unbroken  belt  of  country  in  every  way  fitted  to  invite  immi- 
gi-ation  and  sustain  a  dense  population.  The  principal  E.  terminus  is  St.  Paul, 
and  there  are  2  termini  on  Lake  Superior,  one  at  Duluth,  Minn.,  the  other  at 
Ashland.  Wis.  The  branches  unite  to  form  the  main  line  at  Brainerd,  136  m. 
from  St.  Paul.  The  main  line  of  the  N.  P.  R.  R.  is  now  completed  from  Pasco 
Junction  to  Tacoma,  on  Puget  Sound,  tlie  W.  termimis  of  the  road.  From 
Tacoma,  Ore.,  via  the  Pacific  Div.  of  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.,  Seattle,  Olympia, 
Portland,  and  other  important  points  are  reached.  By  its  branch  lines  and 
its  connections  with  the  Puget  Sound  and  Alaska  S.  S.  Co.,  and  Southern 
Pacific  R.  R.,  convenient  access  is  given  to  all  important  points  in  Cali- 
fornia, Oregon,  Washington,  and  British  Columbia.  The  route  crosses  Min- 
nesota, Dakota,  Montana,  Idaho,  Washington,  and  Oregon,  bisecting  a  coun- 
try of  unsurpassed  advantage  for  agricultural  and  grazing  purposes,  while 
portions  of  the  route  hold  in  tribute  also  mining  regions  which  promise  to  be 
extraordinarily  rich.  The  scenery  on  the  western  half  of  the  route  displays 
many  wonderful  phases  to  attract  the  tourist  and  the  pleasure-seeker,  and 
the  sportsman  will  find  inexhaustible  resources  in  shooting  and  fishing.  The 
largest  game  known  to  North  America,  the  grizzly,  cinnamon,  and  black  bear, 
the  mountain-lion,  the  elk,  and  many  varieties  of  deer  and  antelope,  are  found 
in  numbers  sufiicient  to  excite  the  most  eager  lover  of  field  sports,  while 
creatures  of  the  fin  and  feather  invite  the  sportsman  at  every  turn.  Two  daily 
express  trains  run  from  St.  Paul  to  Portland,  Ore.,  and  Tacoma,  Wash!, 
equipped  with  sleeping-care  of  the  most  improved  pattern,  and  with  elegant 
dining-cars  owned  by  the  company  ;  meals,  75c.  each.  The  principal  sta- 
tions en  route  are  as  follow  (distances  given  are  from  St.  Paul) :  St.  Cloud  (76 
m.),  Little  Falls  (108  m.),  Brainerd  (138  m.),  Wadena  (159  m.).  Detroit  (204  m.), 
Moorhead  (2.50  m.),  Fargo  (251  m.),  Casselton  (271  m.),  Valley  City  (309  m.),  San- 
born (320  m.),  Jamestown  (344  m.),  Bismarck  (445  m.),  Mandan  (4.50  m.),  Dick- 
inson (560  m.),  Glendive  (666  m.),  Miles  City  (744  m.),  Custer  (838  m.),  Billings 
(891  m.),  Livingston  (1,007  m.),  Bozeman  (1,031  m.),  Helena  (1,130  m.),  Garrison 
(1,180  m.),  Butte  City  (1,232  m.),  Missoula  (1,254  m.),  Hope  (1,427  m.),  Spokane 
Falls  (1,512  m.),  Sprague  (1,.5.53  m.),  Pasco  Junction  (1,657  m.),  WaUula  Junc- 
tion (1,673  m.),  Yakima  (1,747  m.),  Ellensburg  (1,784  m.),  The  Dalles  (1,822  m.), 
Tacoma  (1910  m.),  Seattle  (1,931  m.),  Portland  (1,887  m.). 

The  principal  Lake  Superior  terminus  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
R.  R.  is  the  enterprising  city  of  Duluth,  which  has  been  described  (see 
Route  105).  The  main  line  extends  from  East  Superior,  Wis.,  to  Ash- 
land, Wis.,  forming  the  Wisconsin  Div.,  71  miles  long.  These  two  out- 
lets on  the  lake  insure  for  the  railroad  a  large  interest  in  the  lake  busi- 
ness. The  St.  Paul  Div.  meets  the  main  line  at  Brainerd.  St,  Paul 
has  been,  already  described  (see  Route  %*t).     The  road  from  St.  Paul 


Route  106.]       ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.  473 

runs  along  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  furnishing  delightful  views 
from  the  car-windows,  through  St.  Cloud  (76  miles,  population  7,686), 
Little  Falls  (108  miles,  population  2,354),  and  several  smaller  stations. 
Brainerd  (138  miles)  is  the  junction  with  the  main  line.  The  popula- 
tion is  o,  703,  and  here  is  the  seat  of  the  company  car  and  repair  shops, 
which  give  employment  to  1,200  men.  The  city  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
forest  of  pine,  and  the  initial  point  of  the  great  Minnesota  pineries. 
The  city  is  lighted  by  electricity,  and  has  many  fine  buildings,  public  and 
private ;  among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  Northern  Pacific  Hospital^ 
a  fine  Opera-House^  and  a  capacious  hotel.  There  are  3  public  parks, 
and  many  churches,  schools,  etc.  The  shooting  and  fishing  from  this 
point  are  excellent.  Passing  a  number  of  small  stations,  we  reach 
Wadena  (159  miles),  at  the  Junction  of  the  Black  Hills  Branch.  It  is 
the  county-seat,  has  a  population  of  552,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  thriving 
trade  with  the  rich  agricultui-al  region  around.  As  we  proceed  westward, 
the  forests  of  northern  Minnesota  disappear,  except  in  beautiful  groves 
dotting  expansive  plains,  in  which  are  numerous  lakes  and  water-courses. 
Detroit  (204  miles)  has  a  population  of  1,510,  and  is  situated  on  a 
beautiful  lake  of  the  same  name  in  the  edge  of  an  extensive  timber-belt. 
It  is  in  the  center  of  the  "  Lake  and  Park  Region,"  and  the  vicinity  is 
famous  for  quiet,  picturesque  beauty.  This  region  is  said  to  be  the  resort 
and  breeding-ground  of  a  greater  number  of  game-birds  and  water-fowl 
than  can  be  found  elsewhere  in  America.  The  town  has  six  hotels,  sev- 
eral of  them  fitted  for  summer  visitors,  who  are  attracted  by  the  well- 
known  Mineral  Springs  here.  There  are  also  many  summer  cottages 
and  villas,  owned  by  residents  of  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  etc.  We  pass 
the  small  stations  of  Audubon^  Lake  ParJc^  Winriipeg  Junction^  the 
diverging  point  of  the  Manitoba  Branch  to  Grand  Forks,  Grafton,  Pem- 
bina, and  Winnipeg,  Haidey^  and  Muskoda^  and  arrive  at  Glyndon  (241 
miles),  which  is  the  junction-point  with  the  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  k 
Manitoba  R.  R.,  and  an  important  grain-shipping  point  for  the  Red 
River  Valley.  Moorhead  (250  miles)  is  a  town  of  2,088  population 
on  Red  River.  It  is  the  center  of  an  important  trade  and  thriving  manu- 
factures. There  are  12  hotels,  7  churches,  an  opera-house,  2  banks,  3 
newspapers,  car-wheel  works,  agricultural-machinery  works,  brick-yards, 
etc.  Here  is  the  seat  of  an  Episcopal  College.  Fargo  {Columbia 
Hotel.!  Continental  Hotel)  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Red  River,  and 
the  first  station  in  North  Dakota.  Through  western  Minnesota  and 
northern  Dakota  the  road  passes  through  the  finest  wheat-lands  in  the 
world,  and  farms  where  thousands  of  acres  are  inclosed  within  one  fence, 
and  wheat-growing  is  followed  on  a  gigantic  scale.  Both  Moorhead  and 
Fargo  base  their  prosperity  on  the  fact  that  they  are  the  entrepots  of 
the  wheat-growing  interests.  The  Dakotas  are  twice  as  large  as  all  the 
New  England  States.  They  produced,  in  1882,  22,000,000  bushels  of 
wheat,  and  it  is  believed  that,  with  the  same  increase  in  population  and 
production  in  the  future  as  in  the  past,  the  production  of  cereals  at  no 
distant  date  will  reach  200,000,000  bushels.  Fargo,  the  county-seat  of 
Cass  Co.,  has  5,664  inhabitants,  28  hotels,  12  churches,  4  banks,  6  news- 
papers, a  U.  S.  Land  Office,  an  opera-house,  a  theatre,  a  court-house,  car- 


474  ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.       [Route   106. 

wheel  works,  street-railway,  water-works,  high-school,  gas  and  electric 
light,  3  elevators  with  capacity  of  250,000  bushels,  1  planing-mill,  large 
brew^ery,  1  paper-mill,  manufactories,  and  all  the  various  branches  of 
trade  which  make  a  thrifty  and  prosperous  city.  Brick  is  manufactured 
extensively.  It  is  regarded  as  the  future  commercial  center  of  North 
Dakota.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  Dakota  and  Minnesota  Divs.  and  of  the 
Fargo  &  Southwestern  Branch,  and  here  the  company  has  car-shops  and 
round-houses.  Casselton  (271  miles,  population  840)  is  a  busy  and  enter- 
prising town,  important  as  a  grain-shipping  point.  A  half-dozen  small 
stations  intervene  before  we  reach  Jamestown  (344  miles),  beautifully 
situated  in  the  valley  of  the  James  Eiver.  It  has  2,296  population, 
nearly  all  of  whom  are  native-born  to  the  United  States.  It  has  excellent 
hotels,  four  churches,  four  newspapers,  four  banks,  and  considerable 
flour-production.  The  North  Dakota  Presbyterian  College  and  an  Insane 
Hospital  have  been  erected  here.  The  Jamestown  &  Northern  Branch 
and  the  James  River  Valley  Branch  diverge  here. 

Minnewaukan  (91  miles  from  Jamestown)  is  situated  on  DevWs  Lake,  a  salt- 
water lake  about  50  miles  long  and  30  miles  wide,  with  high  wooded  banks  and 
surroundings  of  great  beauty.  Beyond  Devil's  Lake  are  very  attractive  regions 
of  North  Dakota,  known  as  the  Mouse  River  and  Turtle  Mountain  regions, 
reached  by  the  Sanborn,  Cooperstown  &  Turtle  Mountain  B,.  E.  from  Sanborn. 
50  miles  before  we  come  to  Jamestown.  This  portion  of  North  Dakota  is  spe- 
cially attractive  to  sportsmen,  as  it  swarms  with  game,  and  the  lakes  and 
streams  are  full  of  splendid  salmon  and  brook-trout. 

There  are  no  stations  of  much  imjjortance  on  the  Northern  Pacific 
R.  R.  after  leaving  Jamestown  before  reaching  Bismarck,  the  capital 
of  North  Dakota,  situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  and 
having  a  population  of  2,1 86.  Four  lines  of  steamers  carry  on  trade  with 
the  region  of  the  Upper  Missouri.  The  principal  buildings  are  the  State 
Capitol^  Charnher  of  Commerce^  St.  Mary's  Catholic  Seminary,  and  TJ. 
S.  Land  Office.  There  are  12  hotels,  5  churches,  4  banks,  a  theatre, 
court-house,  and  town-hall.  Various  stage-lines  converge  here  from  dif- 
ferent military  posts,  Indian  agencies,  and  small  settlements.  Mandan 
(450  miles)  is  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Missouri,  and  has  1,328  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  the  junction-point  of  the  Dakota  and  Missouri  Divs.,  and  the 
machine-shops  here  built  by  the  company  cost  $150,000,  The  Missouri 
River  is  spanned  by  a  fine  iron  Railroad  Bridge,  and  another  iron  wagon 
bridge  gives  access  to  Fort  Abraham  Lincoln.  Here  is  one  of  the  finest 
hotels  (interocean)  in  the  State,  built  at  a  cost  of  $60,000.  Many  of  the 
blocks  are  built  of  red  brick,  home-made,  and  are  handsome  and  sub- 
stantial. There  is  nothing  to  note  in  the  numerous  small  stations,  all  of 
which  are  thrifty  and  growing,  till  we  reach  the  twin  towns  of  Medora 
and  Little  Missouri  (600  miles),  lying  on  the  E.  and  W.  banks  of  the  Mis- 
souri, 80  yards  apart.  In  the  vicinity  are  valuable  coal-mines.  This  is 
the  headquarters  of  several  large  stock-raising  companies,  and  also  the 
central  point  of  Pyramid  Park,  being  but  4  miles  distant  from  Cedar 
Canon  and  6  miles  from  the  burning  coal-mines.  Both  places  abound 
in  magnificent  scenery,  full  of  interest  to  scientists  and  wonder  to 
pleasure-seekers.  Glendive  (666  miles)  is  on  the  Yellowstone  River, 
and  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone  Divs.,  being  the 


Route   106.]       DULUTH    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.  475 

location  of  machine-shops,  round-houses,  etc.  It  is  the  county-seat, 
and  there  are  several  hotels,  churches,  banks,  etc.  The  town  is  a  favor- 
ite outfitting-spot  for  hunting-parties.  Stages  run  from  here  to  Fort 
Buford,  80  miles  away.  Miles  City  (744  miles,  population  956)  is 
on  the  Yellowstone  at  the  mouth  of  Tongue  River,  and  has  many  fine 
buildings,  public  and  private,  among  which  is  the  Court-House^  a  stone 
edifice  costing  $50,000.  There  is  a  Government  Land  Office  here,  and 
valuable  lignite  mines  in  the  near  vicinity.  The  Tougue  River  Irriga- 
tion Co,  have  just  completed  a  ditch  14  miles  long,  for  irrigating 
purposes.  Two  miles  farther  on  the  railroad  is  I^Wt  Keogh,  a  mili- 
tary post  of  10  companies.  Passing  a  number  of  stations,  among 
which  is  Custer  (838  miles),  deriving  its  name  from  Fort  Custer,  the 
largest  post  in  Montana,  30  miles  S.  (reached  by  stage),  we  arrive 
at  Billings,  on  the  Yellowstone  River  (891  miles,  population  941), 
where  the  R.  R.  Co.  has  repair-shops.  A  thriving  business  is  done 
here,  and  there  are  large  shipments  hence  of  cattle,  wool,  hides,  and 
bullion.  Stages  leave  daily,  except  Sunday,  for  the  Maginnis  Mines,  Fort 
Benton,  and  other  points  of  importance  in  a  valuable  agricultural,  graz- 
mg,  and  mining  region. 

We  have  proceeded  thus  far  without  giving  any  general  description  of  the 
territory,  a  region  full  of  interest  both  to  the  investor  and  the  tourist.  Montana 
covers  an  area  of  148,776  sq.  m.,  two  fifths  of  it  being  mountainous  and  the  rest 
arable.  It  is  splendidly  wati-red,  small  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yel- 
lowstone running  in  every  direction  through  the  E.  portion,  while  a  great  num- 
ber of  small  rivers,  tributary  to  Flathead  and  Missoula  Rivers,  forming  one  of 
the  forks  of  the  Columbia,  water  the  W.  section  of  the  State.  The  country 
is  admirably  adapted  for  cattle-raising,  and  many  extensive  ranches  are  scattered 
over  the  region.  The  climate  is  mild,  dry,  and  exhilarating  like  that  of  the 
Pacific  coast.  The  mountainous  region  is  rich  in  mineral  deposits.  The  yield 
of  the  precious  metals  is  about  ^50,000,000  annually,  and  new  mining-camps  are 
continually  being  opened.  The  scenery  in  western  Montana  is  remarkably  varied, 
rauging  from  the  picturesque  to  the  sublime,  and  offering  every  kind  of  weird 
and  strange  rock-formation. 

Resuming  our  journey  on  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.,  we  reach 
Liviugston  (1,007  miles),  with  a  population  of  2,850,  located  at  the 
foot  of  the  Belt  Mountains,  about  midway  between  the  Great  Lakes 
and  the  Pacific  coast,  and  at  the  last  crossing  of  the  Yellowstone 
River.  It  has  the  largest  railroad  round-house  and  machine-shops  be- 
tween Brainerd  and  Tacoma,  also  5  hotels,  2  banks,  1  hall,  75  stores, 
1  daily  and  2  weekly  newspapers,  1  school,  and  2  churches.  Large 
deposits  of  iron,  lime  and  sand  stone,  silver  ore,  and  bituminous  coal 
exist  in  close  proximity.  Lumber,  lime,  and  brick  are  manufactured 
in  the  town.  The  White  Sulphur  Springs  are  65  miles  to  the  N. 
These  springs  contain  remarkable  medicinal  qualities,  and  are  becom- 
ing somewhat  renowned.  The  Yellowstone  Park  Branch  diverges  here 
and  runs  to  Cinnahar  (51  miles).  From  the  end  of  the  railway,  stages 
convey  the  tourist  in  7  miles  to  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs^  in  the 
Wonderland  of  the  United  States, 


476  THE    YELLOWSTONE    PAKE,  [Route   106. 

The  Yellowstone  Park. 

At  Mammoth.  Hot  Springs,  7  miles  from  Cinnabar  Station,  the  N.  en- 
trance of  the  Park,  is  the  Association  Hotel,  with  excellent  accommodation  for 
350  guests,  providing  every  comfort  and  luxury.  The  Cottage  Hotel  (75  rooms) 
is  the  annex  to  the  large  hotel.  Competent  guides  and  camp-outfits  are  procured 
to  reach  any  portion  of  the  Park.  There  are  good  hotel  accommodations  at  jSTor- 
ris,  Lower  and  Upper  Geyser  Basins,  Yellowstone  Lake,  and  Grand  Canon.  On 
account  of  great  improvements  in  roads,  the  circuit  of  the  Park  may  be  comfort- 
ably made  from  June  1st  to  October  15th.  The  early  and  late  visitors  escape 
the  flies,  dust,  and  crowds,  that  diminish  the  comfort  between  July  and  Sep- 
tember. Camping-parties  have  good  grass  and  clean  camps,  with  plenty  of 
good  fishing,  and  can  see  more  of  the  Targe  and  small  game  in  the  months  of 
June  and  October.  While  hunting  in  the  Park  is  prohibited,  there  is  good 
hunting  across  the  lines  ;  and  fishing  with  hook  and  line  is  permitted  all  over 
the  Park. 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park,  which  Congress  has  "  dedicated  and 
set  apart  as  a  public  park  or  pleasuring  ground  for  the  benefit  and  en- 
joyment of  the  people,"  lies  partly  in  Wyoming  and  partly  in  Montana. 
It  is  65  miles  N.  and  S.  by  55  miles  E.  and  W.,  comprises  3,5*75 
square  miles,  and  is  all  more  than  6,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Yellow- 
stone Lake  has  an  altitude  of  7,788  ft.,  and  the  mountain-ranges  that 
hem  in  the  valleys  on  every  side  rise  to  the  height  of  10,000  and  12,000 
ft.,  and  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  The  entire  region  was  at  a 
comparatively  recent  geological  period  the  scene  of  remarkable  volcanic 
activity,  the  last  stages  of  which  are  still  visible  in  the  hot  springs  and 
geysers.  In  these  the  Park  surpasses  all  the  rest  of  the  world.  There 
are  probably  50  geysers  that  throw  a  column  of  water  to  a  height  of 
from  50  to  200  ft.,  and  from  5,000  to  10,000  springs,  chiefly  of  2  kinds, 
those  depositing  lime  and  those  depositing  silica.  There  is  every  variety 
of  color,  and  the  deposits  form  around  their  border  the  most  elaborate 
ornamentation.  The  temperature  of  the  calcareous  springs  is  from  160° 
to  170'^ ;  that  of  the  others  rises  to  200°  or  more.  The  chief  points  of 
interest  are,  the  Mammoth  Hotel  Terrace-^^  the  N'orris  Geyser  Basin^ 
extending  from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  Madison  River,  the  Mam- 
moth Paint-Pots,  at  the  foot  of  Mt,  Johnson,  the  Monument  Geyser 
Basin,  on  the  top  of  Mt.  Schurz,  in  which  is  the  Prismatic  Canon^ 
the  Ebony  Basin,  containing  Walptirgia  Lake,  and  the  Black  War- 
rior Geyser.  On  the  N.  of  the  Park  are  the  sources  of  the  Yellow- 
stone ;  on  the  W.  those  of  the  principal  forks  of  the  Missouri ;  on 
the  S.  W.  and  S.  those  of  Snake  River,  flowing  into  the  Columbia, 
and  those  of  Green  River,  a  branch  of  the  great  Colorado,  which  en- 
ters into  the  Gulf  of  California ;  while  on  the  S.  E.  side  are  the  numer- 
ous head- waters  of  Wind  River. 

The  Yellowstone  River,  which  is  a  tributary  of  the  Missouri, 
is  without  exception  the  most  extraordinary  river  on  the  continent.  Its 
source  is  near  the  S.  E.  corner  of  the  Park,  in  the  *  Yellowstone 
Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  22  miles  long  and  10  to  15  wide, 
7,788  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  nearly  inclosed  by  snow-clad  mountains 
rising  3,000  to  5,000  ft.  higher.  Its  waters  are  exquisitely  clear  and 
cool,  are  300  ft.  deep  at  the  deepest  part,  and  abound  in  salmon-trout. 
Its  shores  are  rugged  but  extremely  picturesque,  and  on  the  S.  W.  arm 


Route   106.]  THE    YELLOWSTONE    PARK.  477 

is  a  belt  of  hot  springs  3  miles  long  and  ^  mile  wide,  some  of  which 
extend  into  the  lake  itself.  The  Upper  Yellowstone,  the  ultimate  source 
of  the  river,  flows  into  the  lake  from  the  S.  E.  after  a  course  of  25 
miles ;  and  from  its  N.  end  the  Yellowstone  River  emerges  on  its  course 
of  1,300  miles  to  the  Missouri.  About  15  miles  below  the  lake  are  the 
Upper  Falls^  where  the  river,  after  passing  through  a  series  of  rapids, 
makes  an  abrupt  descent  of  140  ft. ;  and  about  ^  mile  farther  down  are 
the  majestic  *  Lower  Falls,  which  are  360  ft.  high.  Below  the 
Lower  Falls  the  river  flows  for  20  miles  through  the  **  Grand  Canon, 
whose  perpendicular  sides,  from  200  to  500  yards  apart,  lise  to  the 
height  of  1,200  to  1,500  ft. 

Ill  Prof.  Ferdinand  V.  Hayden's  report  to  Congress  on  tlie  explorations  which 
lie  conducted,  to  which  we  are  indebted  for  nearly  all  the  authentic  knowledge 
we  have  of  the  Yellowstone  region,  he  <?ays  :  "  No  language  can  do  justice  to  the 
wonderful  grandeur  and  beauty  of  tue  canon  below  the  Lower  Falls  ;  the  very 
nearly  vertical  walls,  slightly  sloping  down  to  the  water's  edge  on  either  side,  so 
that  from  the  summit  the  river  appears  like  a  thread  of  silver  foaming  over  its 
rocky  bottom  ;  the  variegated  colors  of  the  sides,  yellow,  red,  brown,  white,  all 
intermixed  and  shading  into  each  other  ;  the  Gothic  columns  of  every  form, 
standins  out  from  the  sides  of  the  walls  with  greater  A-ariety  and  more  striking 
colors  than  ever  adorned  a  work  of  human  art.  The  margins  of  the  canon  on 
either  side  are  beautifully  fringed  with  pines.  .  .  .  The  decomposition  and 
the  colors  of  the  rocks  must  have  been  due  largely  to  hot  water  from  the  springs, 
which  has  percolated  all  through,  giving  to  them  their  present  variegated  and 
unique  appearance.  Standing  near  the  margin  of  the  Lower  Falls,  and  looking 
down  the  canon,  which  looks  like  an  immense  chasm  or  cleft  in  the  basalt,  with 
its  sides  1,200  to  1,.'500  ft.  high,  and  decorated  with  the  most  brilliant  colors  that 
the  human  eye  ever  saw,  with  the  rocks  weathered  into  an  almost  unlimited 
variety  of  forms,  with  here  and  there  a  pine  sending  its  roots  into  the  clefts  on 
the  sides  as  if  struggling  with  a  sort  of  uncertain  success  to  maintain  an  exist- 
ence— the  whole  presents  a  picture  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  surpass  in  Na- 
ture. Mr.  Thomas  Moran,  a  celebrated  artist,  and  noted  for  his  skill  as  a  colorist, 
exclaimed,  with  a  kind  of  regretful  enthusiasm,  that  these  beautiful  tints  were 
beyond  the  reach  of  human  art.  It  is  not  the  depth  alone  that  gives  such  an 
impression  of  grandeur  to  the  mind,  but  it  is  also  the  picturesque  forms  and 
coloring.  After  the  waters-of  the  Yellowstone  roll  over  the  upper  descent,  they 
flow  with  great  rapidity  over  the  apparently  flat,  rocky  bottom,  which  spreads  out 
to  nearly  double  its  width  above  the  falls,  and  continues  thus  until  near  the  Lower 
Falls,  when  the  channel  again  contracts,  and  the  waters  seem,  as  it  were,  to 
gather  themselves  into  one  compact  mass,  and  plunge  over  the  descent  of  350  ft. 
in  detached  drops  of  foam  as  white  as  snow  ;  some  of  the  large  globules  of 
water  shoot  down  like  the  contents  of  an  exploded  rocket.  It  is  a  sight  far 
more  beautiful  than,  though  not  so  grand  or  impressive  as,  that  of  Niagara 
Falls.  A  heavy  mist  always  rises  from  the  water  at  the  foot  of  the  falls,  so 
dense  that  one  can  not  approach  within  200  or  300  ft.,  and  even  then  the  clothes 
will  be  drenched  in  a  few  moments.  ITpon  the  yellow,  nearly  vertical  wall  of 
the  W.  side,  the  mist  mostly  falls  ;  and  for  300  ft.  from  the  bottom  the  wall 
is  covered  with  a  thick  matting  of  mosses,  sedges,  grasses,  and  other  vegetation 
of  the  most  vivid  green,  which  have  sent  their  small  roots  into  the  softened 
rocks  and  are  nourished  by  the  ever-ascending  spray." 

Just  below  the  Grand  Canon  the  river  receives  Tower  Creek,  which 
flows  for  10  yards  through  a  deep  and  gloomy  canon  known  as  the  DeviPs 
Den.  About  200  yards  above  its  mouth  the  creek  pours  over  an  abrupt 
descent  of  156  ft.,  "forming,"  as  Professor  Hayden  says,  "one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  picturesque  falls  to  be  found  in  any  country."  Be- 
low the  mountains  the  course  of  the  Yellowstone  lies  through  a  wide, 
open  valley  bounded  by  high,  rolling  hills. 


478  THE    YELLOWSTONE    PARK.  [Route   106. 

As  already  mentioned,  there  are  immense  numbers  of  hot  springs  in 
the  Yellowstone  Basip,  some  dead  and  others  evidently  dying.  A  very 
interesting  group  is  on  the  E.  side  of  Mt.  Washburn,  covering  an  area  of 
10  or  15  square  miles,  and  there  are  other  extensive  groups  on  both 
sides  of  the  Yellowstone  Lake  and  also  at  various  points  on  the  river 
(see  map).  But  the  most  remarkable  group,  not  only  in  the  Yellowstone 
region  but  in  the  world,  is  the  Mammoth  or  *  Terrace  Mountain 
Hot  Springs,  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  Gardiner's  River,  on  the 
slope  of  White  Mountain,  fronting  the  Grand  Terraces.  Many  of  the 
springs  are  inactive,  but  the  calcareous  deposits  from  them  cover  an  area 
of  about  2  miles  square.  The  active  springs  extend  from  the  margin 
of  the  river  to  an  elevation  nearly  1,000  ft.  above. 

"  After  ascending  the  side  of  the  moimtain,'"  says  Professor  Hayden,  '•  about 
a  mile  above  the  channel  of  Gardiner's  River  we  suddenly  came  in  full  view  of 
one  of  the  finest  displays  of  Natiu-e's  architectural  skill  the  world  can  produce. 
The  snowy  whiteness  of  the  deposit  at  once  suggested  the  name  of  White  (now 
called  Terrace)  Mountain  Hot  Spring.  It  had  the  appearance  of  a  frozen  cas- 
cade. If  a  group  of  springs  near  the  summit  of  a  mountain  were  to  distribute 
their  waters'down  the  irregular  declivities,  and  they  were  slowly  congealed,  the 
picture  would  bear  some  resemblance  in  fonn.  We  pitched  our  camp  at  the 
foot  of  the  principal  mountain,  by  the  side  of  the  stream  that  contained  the  ag- 
gregated waters  of  the  hot  springs  above,  which,  by  the  time  they  reached  our 
camp,  were  sufficiently  cooled  for  our  use.  Before  us  was  a  hill'  200  feet  high, 
composed  of  the  calcareous  deposit  of  the  hot  springs,  with  a  system  of  step-like 
terraces,  which  would  defy  any  description  in  words.  The  steep  sides  of  the 
hills  were  ornamented  with  a  series  of  semicircular  basins,  with  margins  vary- 
ing in  height  from  a  few  inches  to  6  or  8  ft.,  and  so  beautifully  scalloped  and 
adorned  with  a  kind  of  bead-work  that  the  beholder  stands  "^amazed  at  this 
marvel  of  Nature's  handiwork.  Add  to  this  a  snow-white  ground,  with  every 
variety  of  shade  of  scarlet,  green,  and  yellow,  as  brilliant  as  the  brightest  of  onr 
aniline  dyes.  The  pools  or  basins  are  of  all  sizes,  from  a  few  inches  to  6  or  8  ft. 
in  diameter,  and  from  2  inches  to  2  ft.  deep.  As  the  water  flows  from  the  spring 
over  the  mountain-side  from  one  basin  to  another  it  loses  continually  a  portion 
of  its  heat,  and  the  bather  can  find  any  desired  temperature.  At  the  top  of  the 
hill  there  is  a  broad,  flat  terrace,  covered  more  or  less  with  these  basins,  150  to 
200  yards  in  diameter,  and  many  of  them  going  to  decay.  Here  we  find  the 
largest,  finest,  and  most  active  spring  of  the  group  at  the  present  time.  The 
largest  spring  is  very  near  the  outer  margin  of  the  teiTace,  and  is  25  by  40  ft.  in 
diameter,  the  water  so  perfectly  transparent  that  one  can  look  down  into  the 
beautiful  ultramarine  depth  to  the  bottom  of  the  basin.  The  sides  of  the  basin 
are  ornamented  with  coral-like  forms,  with  a  great  variety  of  shades,  from  pure 
white  to  a  bright  cream-yellow,  and  the  blue  sky,  reflected  in  the  transparent 
waters,  gives  an  azure  tint  to  the  whole  which  surpasses  all  art.  Underneath 
the  sides  of  many  of  these  pools  are  rows  of  stalactites,  of  all  sizes,  many  of 
them  exquisitely  ornamented,  formed  by  the  dripping  of  the  water  over  the  mar- 
gin of  the  basin." 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  about  10  miles  from  the 
falls,  is  the  Sulphur  Mountain^  rising  to  a  height  of  150  ft.  from  an 
almost  level  plain  and  perforated  with  numerous  fissures  and  "  craters  " 
from  which  sulphurous  vapor  pours  forth  in  great  abundance.  The  fis- 
sures are  lined  with  sulphur-crystals,  and  the  ground  is  hot  and  parched 
with  internal  fires.  Close  by  are  some  boihng  Mud  Springs^  and  there  is 
another  remarkable  group  of  them  about  2  miles  S.  E.  on  the  bank  of 
the  river.  A  few  miles  above  Sulphur  Mountain  is  the  *  Mud  Volcano, 
which  has  broken  out  from  the  side  of  a  well-timbered  hill.  The  crater 
is  25  ft.  across  at  the  top  and  about  30  ft.  deep.     The  surface  of  the 


Route  106. \  THE   YELLOWSTONE   PARK.  479 

bottom  is  in  a  constant  state  of  ebullition,  puffing  and  throwing  up 
masses  of  boiling  mud,  and  sending  forth  dense  columns  of  steam  which 
rise  several  hundred  feet  and  can  be  seen  for  many  miles  in  all  directions. 
Close  by  are  3  large  hot  springs,  one  of  w^hich  is  a  geyser  haying  periods 
of  active  eruption  about  every  6  hours. 

The  great  Geysers  of  the  Yellowstone  region  are  situated  on  the 
Fire-Hole  River,  the  middle  fork  of  the  Madison,  in  the  W.  portion  of 
the  Park.  They  lie  in  two  large  groups,  in  what  are  called  the  Upper 
and  Lower  Geyser  Basins.  The  Lower  Basin^  beginning  near  the  junc- 
tion of  the  East  and  Middle  Forks  of  the  Madison,  comprises  an  area  of 
about  30  square  miles,  and  contains  uncounted  numbers  of  geysers  and 
springs  w^hich  are  distributed  in  7  groups.  The  most  interesting  of  these 
is  the  second  group,  which  lies  near  the  center  of  the  basin,  and  which 
is  said  to  resemble  a  factory  village,  the  steam  rising  in  jets  from  more 
than  100  orifices.  The  Fountain,  (Jeysier  is  about  20  ft.  in  diameter,  and 
throws  a  column  to  the  height  of  50  ft.  About  100  yards  S.  of  the 
Fountain  is  the  Museum  or  Monument  Basin^  where  Nature  has  formed 
what  seem  images  of  every  conceivable  shape.  Another,  named  the 
Evangeline  Geyser.,  is  also  styled  the  Thud.,  from  the  dull,  suppressed 
sound  given  off  as  the  water  rises  and  recedes.  It  has  a  beautiful  scal- 
loped rim,  with  small  basins  around  it.  The  Upper  Basin  lies  in  the 
valley  of  the  same  river,  about  8  miles  S.  of  the  Lower  Basin.  It  is  not 
so  large  as  the  latter,  covering  an  area  of  only  3  square  miles,  and  there 
are  fewer  springs ;  but  the  phenomena  exhibited  are  far  more  remarkable. 
Close  to  the  Firehole  River  lies  Hell's  Half- Acre,  with  the  JExcel- 
sior  Geyser,  which  in  1882  was  in  eruption  for  a  month,  the  water 
rising  like  a  dome  200  ft.  high,  and  rocks  and  bowlders  being  ejected. 
This  is  the  most  powerful  geyser  of  the  group.  The  average  tempera- 
ture is  over  1Y0°,  that  of  the  air  being  67°.  At  the  head  of  the  valley, 
near  its  S.  extremity,  stands  *01d  Faithful,  a  geyser  so  called  for  its 
regularity ;  it  spouts  at  intervals  of  about  an  hour,  throwing  a  column 
of  water  6  ft.  in  diameter  to  a  maximum  height  of  130  ft.,  and  hold- 
ing it  up  by  a  succession  of  impulses  from  4  to  6  minutes.  When  the 
action  ceases,  the  water  recedes  out  of  sight,  and  nothing  but  the  occa- 
sional hiss  of  steam  is  heard  until  the  time  approaches  for  another 
eruption.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  the  Beehive.^  which  once 
in  24  hours  throws  a  column  of  water  3  ft.  in  diameter  to  a  height  of 
from  100  to  220  ft.  The  eruption  lasts  from  5  to  15  minutes.  About 
200  yards  from  the  Beehive  is  *The  Giantess,  one  of  the  largest  of 
the  geysers.  It  has  an  oval  aperture  18  by  25  ft.  in  diameter,  the 
inside  of  w^hich  is  corrugated  and  covered  with  a  whitish  silicious  de- 
posit. When  not  in  action,  no  water  can  be  seen  in  its  basin,  although 
its  sides  are  visible  to  the  depth  of  100  ft.,  but  a  gurgling  sound  can  be 
heard  at  a  great  distance  below.  When  an  eruption  is  about  to  take 
place,  the  water  rises  in  the  tube  with  much  sputtering  and  hissing, 
sending  off  vast  clouds  of  steam.  When  it  finally  bursts  forth,  it  throws 
up  a  column  of  water  the  full  size  of  its  aperture  to  the  height  of  60 
ft.,  and  through  this  rise  five  or  six  smaller  jets,  varying  from  6  to  15 
inches  in  diameter,  to  the  height  of  250  ft.     The  eruption,  which  takes 


480  DULUTH    TO    THE   PACIFIC    COAST.      [Route  106. 

place  at  irregular  intervals,  continues  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Farther 
down  the  river,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  Sawmill  Geyser,  which  throws 
a  small  stream  10  or  15  ft.  high  almost  uninterruptedly.  Near  it  is  the 
*  Grand  Geyser,  one  of  the  most  powerful  in  the  basin.  Its  orifice 
is  2-|  by  4  ft.,  and  when  not  in  eruption  the  water  is  quiet  and  clear 
as  crystal.  An  eruption  (which  occurs  at  irregular  intervals)  is  pre- 
ceded by  a  rumbling  and  shaking  of  the  ground,  followed  by  a  column 
of  steam  shooting  up  from  the  crater,  immediately  after  which  the 
water  bursts  forth  in  a  succession  of  jets,  apparently  6  ft.  in  diameter 
at  the  bottom  and  tapering  to  a  point  at  the  top,  to  a  height  of  from 
1*75  to  200  ft.,  while  the  -steam  ascends  to  1,000  ft.  or  more.  This  im- 
mense body  of  water  is  kept  up  to  this  height  for  about  20  minutes, 
when  it  gradually  recedes  and  again  becomes  quiescent.  Only  20  ft. 
from  the  Grand  Geyser,  and  in  the  same  basin,  but  apparently  having 
no  connection  with  it,  is  Turhan  Geyser,  with  an  orifice  3  by  4  ft., 
which  is  never  wholly  quiet,  and  as  often  as  once  in  twenty  minutes 
throws  its  water  to  the  height  of  from  15  to  25  ft.  The  *  Giant  Gey- 
ser has  a  rugged  crater,  like  a  broken  horn,  10  ft.  in  height,  25  ft.  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  and  about  8  ft.  at  the  top.  The  cone  is  open  on 
one  side,  having  a  ragged  aperture  from  the  ground  upward.  Its  dis- 
charges are  irregular  and  continue  for  irregular  periods.  When  Prof. 
Hay  den  saw  it  in  18Y1,  it  played  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes,  throwing 
the  water  140  ft. ;  but  Lieut.  Doane,  who  visited  it  the  year  before, 
states  that  it  played  3^  hours  at  one  time,  to  a  height  varying  from 
90  to  200  ft.  The  Castle,  the  Grotto,  the  Punch-Bowl,  the  Riverside, 
the  Soda,  and  the  Fan  Geysers,  and  numerous  others  which  have  not 
been  named,  are  worthy  of  notice. 

The  Norris  Geyser  Basin  is  about  20  miles  S.  of  the  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs.  Among  its  numerous  geysers  is  the  Hurricane,  a  new 
outbreak  caused  by  the  earthquakes  of  1886-'8V;  the  water  is  turbid, 
and  rises  from  two  craters. 

The  Yellowstone  Park  may  also  be  reached  by  the  Utah  and  Northern  Branch 
of  the  Idaho  Div.  of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.,  from  Ogden  (see  Route  90),  to 
Garrison-  (454  m.),  on  the  N.  P.  R.  R.,  and  thence  E.  to  Livingston  (175  m.)  or 
to  Beaver  Canon,  and  thence  by  stage  to  Fire-Hole  Basin. 


Resuming  our  journey  on  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.,  we  reach  Boze- 
man  (1,031  miles),  after  passing  a  number  of  small  stations.  It  has  a 
population  of  2,143.  Among  its  principal  buildings  are  a  fine  Coiirt- 
House,  5  hotels,  6  theatres  and  public  halls,  3  banks,  5  churches,  and  the 
United  States  Rand  Office.  There  are  several  flour  and  planing  mills. 
Coal,  gold,  silver,  iron,  and  copper  are  found  near  by.  Rort  Rllis,  a 
military  post,  is  3  miles  E.  on  the  railroad.  Passing  Gcdlatin  (1,060 
miles),  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  Toionsend  (1,096 
miles),  we  arrive  at  *  Helena  {Broadwater,  Cosmopolitan,  Grand 
Central),  the  capital  of  Montana  (reached  also  via  Omaha  and  the  Union 
Pacific  R.  R,),  with  a  population  of  13,834,  where  all  routes  of  transpor- 
tation converge.  It  claims  to  be  the  richest  city  of  its  size  in  the  United 
States,     Among  its  important  buildings  are  the  State-House^  Ming's 


Route   106.]    ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.  481 

Opera-House,  the  U.  S.  Afisay- Office^  U.  S.  Land- Office,  4  national  banks, 
one  of  which  carries  deposits  exceeding  $7,000,000,  and  2  fine  public 
halls.  The  public  buildings  and  the  private  residences  are  of  a  character 
to  attract  the  eye  of  the  stranger.  The  city  is  the  center  of  important 
manufacturing  interests,  as  well  as  of  trade  and  commerce.  It  has  tele- 
phones, electric  lights,  an  admirable  fire-department,  and  a  system  of 
water-works.  Helena  is  situated  in  the  center  of  a  mineral  region  un- 
surpassed either  in  Montana  or  elsewhere  for  the  number  and  richness 
of  its  gold  and  silver  bearing  lodes,  there  being,  within  25  miles,  over 
3,000  quartz  lodes,  which  have  been  claimed  and  recorded,  and  several 
hundred  patented.  The  Drum-Lummon  Mine  has  recently  been  sold 
for  $1,500,000.  Besides  the  gold  and  silver  lodes,  veins  of  galena, 
copper,  and  iron  are  found  in  great  numbers.  Among  the  attractions 
of  Helena  are  the  noted  Hot  Springs,  situated  in  a  romantic  glen  4 
miles  W.  of  the  town,  which  are  much  resorted  to  by  persons  afflicted 
with  rheumatism  and  other  kindred  diseases.  The  temperature  of  the 
water  as  it  bubbles  up  from  the  earth  varies  from  110°  to  190°  Fahr. 
Fort  Benton,  160  miles  N.  E.,  is  reached  by  daily  stage. 

Helena  is  the  center  of  a  region  of  remarkable  scenic  attractions.  South  of 
it  lies  Madison  Co.,  traversed  by  the  Jefferson  and  Madison  Rivers,  two  of  the 
three  streams  forming  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  Eiver.  Near  the  center  of 
the  county  is  the  picturesquely  located  Virginia  City,  the  former  capital  of 
Montana  (connected  with  Bozeman  by  stage),  and  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  mining 
region.  It  is  at  the  very  foot  of  the  great  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The 
western  boundary  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  Counties,  in  which  Helena  is  situated,  is 
the  divide  of  the  main  range  of  the  Rockies,  and  the  eastern  is  the  Missouri 
River.  From  peak  to  lowland  there  is  a  difference  of  fully  5,000  feet  in  altitude  ; 
the  valleys  are  green  and  smiling,  while  the  mountains  are  grand  and  gloomy, 
with  dark-browed  firs  and  growths  of  pine.  Eighteen  miles  north  of  Helena  the 
Benton  stage-road  enters  the  noted  canon  of  the  Little  PricMy  Pear.  The  tow- 
ering and  precipitous  walls  look  down  iipon  a  dashing  mountain  torrent,  from 
500  to  1,000  feet  below,  and  the  rich  coloring  of  the  rock-formation  blends  beau- 
tifully with  the  shades  of  the  foliage  which  covers  every  spot  where  a  chink  or 
crevice  affords  a  footing  for  tree,  or  shrub,  or  vine.  The  most  striking  scenery, 
however,  next  to  that  of  Yellowstone  Park,  is  found  along  the  course  of  the 
Upper  Missouri.  Eighteen  miles  N.  from  Helena  the  tourist  finds  the  great 
mountain-gate  through  which  the  waters  of  _the  Missouri  plunge  between  walls 
300  ft.  wide  and  1,000  ft.  high.  Atlantic  Canon  is  3  m.  farther  down,  and  at  the 
lower  end  of  it  is  the  Bear's  Tooth,  whose  tusk-like  forms  can  be  seen  from 
Helena,  25  m.  away.  One  hundred  miles  from  Helena  are  the  first  of  the  falls 
of  the  Missouri.  The  principal  falls,  four  in  number,  are  scattered  along  a  dis- 
tance of  12  miles,  where  the  river  flows  through  a  canon  with  vertical  banks 
from  200  to  ,500  ft.  in  height.  First  is  the  Black  Eagle  Fall,  where  the  entire 
river  takes  a  vertical  plunge  of  26  feet.  Foiu*  miles  below  this,  the  river,  here 
1,200  ft.  wide,  hurls  itself  over  an  unbroken  rocky  rim,  forming  the  beautiful 
itainbow  Falls,  with  a  perpendicular  descent  of  50  ft.  Six  miles  farther  down 
are  the  Great  Falls,  whose  descent  is  90  ft.,  and  whose  tremendous  roar  can 
be  heard  a  dozen  miles  away.  The  river,  here  possessing  a  volume  three  times 
greater  than  that  of  the  Ohio,  is  narrowed  to  300  yards  and  passes  between  ver- 
tical cliffs  some  200  ft.  high.  Nearly  half  the  stream  next  to  the  right  bank  de- 
scends with  such  force  as  to  send  into  the  air  clouds  of  spray  200  ft.  high  and 
glowing  with  all  the  prismatic  hues.  The  remainder  is  precipitated  over  suc- 
cessive ledges,  forming  a  magnificent  cataract  of  fleecy  foam,  200  yards  in 
breadth  and  90  ft.  in  perpendicular  elevation.  In  a  distance  of  10  miles  of  the 
river's  course  there  are  12  distinct  falls  with  a  total  descent  of  about  400  ft. 

After  leaving  Helena,  the  next  station  worthy  of  notice  is   Garri- 
son (1,180  miles),  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Branch  of  the  Union 
31 


482  ST.    PAUL   TO   THE   PACIFIC   COAST.     [Route  106. 

Pacific  R.  R.  from  Ogden.  For  a  distance  of  60  miles  the  Beer  Lodge 
Valley^  through  which  the  road  now  passes,  spreads  out  from  5  to  10 
miles  wide,  and  within  a  short  radius  are  to  be  found  lofty  peaks,  lovely 
mountain  lakes,  glittering  cascades,  mineral  springs,  and  the  Great 
Geyser  Cone,  which  gives  name  to  the  river  and  valley.  Deer  Lodge 
(population  1,463),  11  miles  S.  from  Garrison,  is  a  mining  center  on 
the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  Butte  {McDermott^  St.  Nicholas^  Windsor\ 
population  10,723,  is  the  seat  of  Silver  Bow  County,  and  is  the  present 
western  terminus  of  the  branch  line  from  Logan.  It  is  also  the  south- 
ern terminus  of  ths  Montana  Union  Railway,  and  has  its  western  out- 
let at  Garrison.  It  is  lighted  by  electricity  and  gas ;  has  a  street-rail- 
way system  operated  by  steam  motors,  electric  and  cable  lines,  two  city 
water  companies,  a  newly-constructed  system  of  sewerage,  court-house 
and  jail,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $200,000,  new  opera-house,  4  banks,  hos- 
pitals, first-class  schools,  2  telegraph  companies,  telephone  and  district 
telegraph.  Butte  is  said  to  be  the  largest  and  most  prosperous  mining 
city  in  the  world.  The  products  are  principally  copper  and  silver,  with 
some  gold.  Some  3,500  miners  are  employed  within  a  radius  of  1^ 
miles  from  the  Court-House.  There  are  over  4,000  mines  patented  in 
this  district.  Six  smelteries  and  6  silver-mills  run  day  and  night,  re- 
ducing ores  to  copper  matte  and  silver  bullion.  The  largest  mining 
companies  are  the  Anaconda  Co.,  owning  the  famous  "Anaconda"  and 
"St.  Lawrence"  copper-mines,  together  with  a  group  of  copper  and 
silver  mines  partly  developed,  of  untold  wealth,  known  as  the  "  Cham- 
ber's Syndicate  "  ;  the  Boston  &  Montana  Co.,  with  a  group  of  splendid 
copper  properties,  foremost  of  which  may  be  mentioned  the  "  Mount- 
ain View,"  "Lloyd  &  Harris,"  "Colusa,"  and  many  other  bonanzas 
of  note.  The  Butte  &  Boston  Co.  ranks  third,  with  a  valuable  group 
of  silver  and  copper  properties,  smeltery,  and  silver-mills.  The  Parrot 
Co.  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous  corporations  in  the  city,  having  cop- 
per-mines the  product  of  which  is  manufactured  into  pig  copper  and 
shipped  to  the  East.  The  Butte  Reduction-Works  and  Colorado  Min- 
ing &  Smelting  Co.  also  own  considerable  property,  and  are  large  ship- 
pers of  copper  matte  to  the  East.  The  principal  silver  mines  and  mills 
are  the  "Blue-Bird,"  "Silver-Bow,"  "Lexington,"  "Alice,"  and  "  Moul- 
ton."  The  Anaconda  Co.  ships  4,000  tons  of  copper-silver  ores  daily  to 
their  reduction-works  at  Anaconda,  which  are  by  far  the  largest  in  the 
world.  The  product  of  copper,  silver,  and  gold  at  Butte  for  the  year 
1889  reached  the  sum  of  S21, 000,000,  and  yet  the  mining  industry  is 
still  in  its  infancy  in  this  district.  The  surrounding  country  is  mount- 
ainous, consisting  of  grazing  and  timber  lands.  Shipments  are  chiefly 
gold,  silver  bullion,  copper  matte,  and  pig  copper.  Lumber  and  wood 
interests  are  very  large,  and  an  immense  capital  is  invested  in  fur- 
nishing these  commodities.  Missoula  (1,254  miles)  is  an  enter- 
prising town,  with  a  population  of  3,426,  and  is  beautifully  situated 
near  the  junction  of  the  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter-Root  Rivers,  on  a  broad, 
high  plateau,  from  which  there  is  a  noble  outlook.  The  Bitter-Root 
Valley^  noted  for  its  picturesque  loveliness,  extends  S.  from  this  60 
miles.     The  military  post  of  Fort  Missoula  is  4  miles  S.     Following  the 


Boute  106.]  WASHINGTON.  483 

Jocko  River,  the  road  traverses  the  Flathead  Reservation.  Here  is 
Flathead  Lake,  28  miles  long  by  10  miles  wide,  lying  embosomed  in  a 
lovely  expanse  of  country ;  a  chain  of  wooded  islets  stretches  across  the 
center,  lofty  cliffs  frown  on  two  sides,  while  on  the  -others  lie  sunny 
meadows  beyond  the  sloping  shores.  In  this  lake  the  Pend  d' Oreille 
River  takes  its  rise  and  winds  for  hundreds  of  miles  through  deep  gorges 
and  beautiful  valleys  before  discharging  its  waters  into  Lake  Pend 
d'Oreille.  About  40  miles  from  Flathead  Lake,  near  St.  Ignatius's  Mis- 
sion, are  the  Two  Sisters,  cascades  of  great  beauty,  which  leap  down 
from  opposite  walls  of  a  great  amphitheatre,  scooped  out  of  the  mount- 
ains, a  sheer  fall  of  2,000  ft.,  like  banks  of  snow  against  the  back- 
ground of  rock.  They  unite  after  their  descent,  and  pass  on  as  a  single 
stream.  Leaving  the  Flathead  Country,  the  railroad  now  follows  the 
charming  valley  of  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia  River.  Hope  (1,42'7 
miles)  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Idaho  and  Rocky  Mts.  Divs.,  and  there 
are  railroad-shops  at  this  point.  The  road  skirts  Clark's  Fork  of  the 
Columbia  till  it  reaches  the  large  opening  in  the  river  45  miles  long 
and  from  3  to  1 5  miles  in  width,  known  as  Lake  Pend  c/'  Oreille,  a  sheet 
of  water  whose  beauty  has  long  made  it  notable.  Both  the  lake  and  the 
surrounding  scenery  are  of  the  most  picturesque  description.  At  Sand 
Point  (1,442  miles)  the  road  crosses  one  end  of  the  lake.  Lake  C(xur 
d''Alerte,  1 1  miles  from  Rathdrum,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sheets 
of  water  in  Idaho.  Ten  miles  beyond  Rathdrum  the  road  enters  the 
State  of  Washington. 

The  States  of  Washington  (69,994  sq.  m.)  and  Oregon  (95,274  sq.  m.)  are  so 
essentially  alike  in  their  general  geographical,  climatic,  geological,  and  phys- 
ical conditions  that  the  same  description  Avill  apply  in  the  main  to  both.  This 
magnificent  region  is  known  as  the  •'  New  Northwest,"  as  it  is  only  within  a  few 
years  that  its  great  capacities  and  attractions  have  been  realized  by  the  world. 
Washington  lies  within  the  parallels  of  49  degrees  and  42  degrees  N.  lati- 
tude, and  the  population  in  1890  was  349,390.  The  warm  Japan  current  which 
sweeps  down  the  Pacific  coast  tempers  the  climate  to  a  great  mildness,  giving 
cool  summers  and  warm  winters  ;  and  the  soil,  which  is  of  great  fertility,  yields 
great  crops  of  all  the  products  of  temperate  climates.  The  forests  of  the  W. 
section  of  this  region,  consisting  of  fir,  pine,  hemlock,  spruce,  larch,  and  cedar, 
and  all  the  hard  woods,  are  immense,  surpassing  the  lumbering  wealth  of  any 
other  part  of  the  country.  Trees  attain  an  unusual  height,  growing  so  tall  and 
straight  as  to  speciallv  fit  them  for  ships'  masts.  Yellow  fir  often  attains  2,50  ft.  ; 
pine,  160  ft.  ;  silver  fir,  150  ft.  ;  black  fir,  1.50  ft.  Cedars  have  been  found  63  ft. 
in  girth  and  120  ft.  in  height.  The  country  is  traversed  by  the  Cascade  and 
Coast  Ranges.  Some  of  the  peaks  of  the  Cascade  Range  are" among  the  highest 
in  the  country,  among  them  Mount  Ranier  (14,444  ft.).  Mount  Baker  (10,719  ft.), 
St.  Helen's  (9^750  ft.),  and  Adams  (9,570  ft.),  all  of  them  former  volcanoes,  which 
still  give  occasional  signs  of  activity.  The  Columbia  Eiver,  which  is  famous 
for  its  beautiful  scenery,  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  for  725  m.,  and  for  small 
vessels  1.50  m.  farther.  The  Snake  River  is  one  of  the  large  affluents  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  the  former  has  many  tributaries  traversing  Washington  and  Ore- 
gon. Many  large  streams  flow  also  into  the  Lower  Columbia,  the  principal  one 
being  the  Willamette,  which  passes  through  a  valley  of  extraordinary  beauty 
and  fertility.  The  largest  steamships  can  come  up  the  Columbia  and  the  Wil- 
lamette to  Portland  on  the  latter  river  (112  m.)  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  All  of 
the  coast  rivers  are  navigable  from  the  sea  for  a  long  distance.  In  addition  to 
its  great  agricultural  resources,  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  "  New  Northwest  "  is 
great,  including  gold,  silver,  iron,  copper,  lead,  tin,  zinc,  cinnabar,  graphite, 
etc.  The  fishing  interests  are  very  important  ;  the  Columbia  River,  Puget 
Sound,  and  all  the  tributaries  emptying  into  them,  teeming  with  salmon  and 
other  fish  of  great  commercial  value. 


484  WASHINGTON.  [Route   106. 

Spokane  (1,512  miles,  pop.  19,922)  is  beautifully  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Spokane  River,  on  the  Idaho  D'w.  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
R.  R.,  and  is  a  terminal  point  for  the  Spokane  Falls  &  Northern  R.  R. 
and  the  Union  Pacific  system.  It  is  surrounded  by  forests  of  valuable 
timber,  picturesque  mountains,  and  fertile  valleys,  the  latter  yielding, 
with  little  efi'ort,  large  returns  of  grain  and  fruits.  The  Falls  of  the 
Spokane  River,  which  in  the  space  of  half  a  mile  fall  150  feet,  are  very 
grand  and  beautiful.  They  furnish  constant  water-power,  as  the  river 
never  freezes.  Spokane  has  2  electric  railways  3^  miles  in  length,  a 
cable  line  (water-power)  6  miles  long,  and  a  steam-motor  line  2^  miles 
long,  also  nearly  25  miles  of  horse-car  lines.  It  has  15  hotels,  9  banks, 
3  daily  and  4  weekly  newspapers,  7  school  buildings,  2  colleges,  14 
churches,  4  flour-mills,  6  saw-mills,  3  sash  and  door  and  2  furniture 
factories,  3  iron  and  machine  foundries,  all  run  by  w^ater-power.  Its 
two  theatres,  left  after  the  great  fire  of  August  4,  1889,  have  a  seat- 
ing capacity  of  3,500  people,  while  the  opera-house,  built  at  a  cost  of 
$"300,000,  alone  seats  2,500  people.  Walhda  Junction  (1,673  miles)  is 
at  the  junction  of  the  N.  P.  R.  R.  with  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation 
Co.'s  Line.  Castle  Rock  (1,750  miles)  takes  its  name  from  a  titanic 
bowlder  on  the  bank  of  the  river  with  its  turreted  and  pinnacled  sides 
500  ft.  in  the  air.  A  number  of  small  stations  intervene  before  we 
reach  Dalles  City,  with  a  population  of  848  (1,799  miles).  This  city 
has  fine  water-works,  8  hotels,  3  banks,  4  public  halls  and  theatres,  3 
newspapers,  and  5  churches.  It  is  the  center  of  considerable  trade  with 
the  surrounding  country,  and  some  manufacturing  is  done.  Though 
there  are  no  important  stations  between  Dalles  City  and  Portland,  it  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the  route  on  account  of  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  river  scenery.  The  Columbia  now  passes 
through  the  very  heart  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  and  the  turbulent 
waves  roar  through  the  narrow  channel  as  they  flow  between  the  huge 
cliflf-like  walls  that  in  many  cases  frown  over  the  very  brink  of  the 
river  in  basaltic  masses  sometimes  1,200  ft.  high.  At  the  Cascade 
Locks  (1,865  miles)  there  are  fierce  and  whirling  rapids,  where  the  river 
fails  40  ft.,  dashing  20  ft.  at  a  bound.  For  5  miles  the  water  is  a  seeth- 
ing caldron  of  foam,  so  that  a  portage  railway  conveys  the  river-pas- 
senger around  the  obstruction.  The  characteristic  feature  of  the  Colum- 
bia River  in  this  portion  of  its  course  is  found  in  the  heavy  forests  of 
fir  and  spruce.  Far  in  the  distance  loom  snowy  peaks,  and  the  clouds, 
trees,  and  mountains  are  reflected  in  the  clear  water  as  in  a  mirror. 
From  time  to  time  mountain  streams  dash  over  precipices  into  the 
I'iver.  Among  these  the  most  picturesque  is  Mtdtnomah  Falls  (1,879 
miles),  near  the  railway  station  of  the  same  name.  The  water  plunges 
down  a  distance  of  700  ft.  in  a  ribbon  of  glittering  spi-ay.  Thence  the 
stream  plows  its  way  through  moss-lined  banks  until  it  makes  its  leap 
into  the  Columbia  in  a  broad,  thin  sheet  of  foamy  silver. 

*  Portland,  Ore.  (1,911  miles)  {Esmond^  Gilman,  Holton^  Mer- 
chants'' Eotel^  The  Portland^  St.  Charles),  is  the  commercial  metropolis 
of  the  Pacific  Northwest.  The  city  is  situated  on  the  Willamette  River, 
12  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Columbia.    The  population  in 


« 

s 

B. 


Route  106.]  WASHmGTON.  485 

1890  was  46,385.  It  is  a  seaport,  to  which  large  vessels  may  come 
direct.  It  lies  in  the  very  heart  of  a  great  producing  country,  which  has 
no  other  outlet,  and  for  which  it  serves  as  a  receiver  and  distributer  of 
exports  and  imports.  From  Portland  passenger  steamships  sail  to  San 
Francisco  and  Puget  Sound,  British  Columbia,  Alaska,  and  Japan,  as 
well  as  to  points  on  the  Willamette,  Columbia,  and  smaller  rivers.  It 
is  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  system,  the  Southern  Pacific 
R.  R.,  and  the  Xorthern  Pacific  R.  R.  The  streets  of  Portland  are  wide, 
regularly  laid  out,  well  paved  and  well  lighted.  The  buildings  of  the 
business  thoroughfares  would  do  credit  to  any  city,  and  the  same  may  be 
said  of  many  of  the  churches,  the  post-oSice,  the  custom-house,  and  other 
public  edifices,  as  well  as  private  residences.  The  markets  are  good  and 
spacious.  There  are  pubUc  and  other  schools  of  various  grades,  a  large 
library,  well-conducted  newspapers,  16  banks,  3  public  halls,  a  good 
theatre,  12  lines  of  street-railway,  with  76  miles  of  road,  all  cable  or 
electric  except  two  miles,  water-works  owned  by  the  city,  gas,  manu- 
facturing establishments,  telegraphic  communication  with  all  parts,  an 
immense  wholesale  and  retail  business,  and,  in  fine,  all  the  features  of 
a  flourishing  modern  city.  The  wholesale  trade  of  Portland  in  1890 
amounted  to  about  $131,550,000.  The  value  of  building  improvements 
in  1890  amounted  to  $3,450,000.  The  factories  of  the  city  in  1890 
turned  out  a  product  of  $2*7,385,000.  Within  a  few  years  the  Portland 
Industrial  Fair  Building  has  been  erected.  For  description  of  the 
country  traversed  by  the  Oregon  &  California  R.  R.,  see  Route  94. 

Several  very  agxeeable  excursions  may  be  made  from  Portland,  of  whicli  the 
easiest  and  most  attractive  is  that  up  the  Columbia  Elver.  Steamers  run  dailv 
to  the  Dalles  (120  miles,  fare  S3.50),  and  tri-weekly  to  WaUvla  (245  miles,  fare  $12). 
The  scenery  all  the  way  is  grand  and  impressive,  especially  at  the  Cascades  and 
the  Dalles.  Another  pleasant  excursion  is  to  Puget  Sound,  and  may  be  made  in 
two  ways  :  1,  via  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  for  various  points  on  the  Sound  : 
2,  via  semi-weekly  steamers  to  Victoria,  the  capital  of  British  Columbia.  Fxigef 
Sound  is  a  picturesque  body  of  water,  and  the  stopping-places  of  the  steamers  are 
all  prosperous  towns.  A  third  excursion  is  to  Astoria,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  and  thence  across  the  promontory  to*  Clatsop  Beach,  the  great  water- 
ing-place of  Oregon,  and  North  Beach,  in  Washington.  All  these  points,  except 
the  beaches,  are  now  reached  by  railroads,  trains  daily. 

Puget  Sound. 
Puget  Sound  is  reached  direct  by  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  This 
sheet  of  water  is  one  of  the  loveliest  of  inland  seas,  and  has  not  unaptly 
been  called  the  Mediterranean  of  the  United  States.  It  communicates 
with  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  in  the  middle  of 
which  is  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  the  British  pos- 
sessions. This  charming  landlocked  sea  lies  in  the  N.  W.  portion  of 
Washington,  is  navigable  by  the  largest  ships,  and  penetrates  far  into 
the  interior  of  the  State,  some  parts  of  the  Sound  being  200  miles  from 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  Large  ships  can  ride  close  to  the  shores  without  the 
need  of  wharves.  The  lofty  hills  which  encompass  the  Sound  and  the 
interior  far  back  are  densely  wooded  with  noble  forests,  the  trees  being 
of  great  size  and  straightness.  The  lumbering  interest  of  Puget  Sound 
has  already  become  enormous.     The  tourist  will  be  charmed  bv  the 


486  WASHINGTON.  [Boute  106. 

great  beauty  and  picturesqiieness  of  this  body  of  water,  the  ease  of  trav- 
ersing it,  as  steamers  plow  its  waters  in  every  direction,  and  the  gen- 
eral novelty  of  its  surroundings.  The  principal  towns  on  Puget  Sound 
are  Tacoma,  Olympia,  Seattle,  Port  Townsend,  and  Whatcom. 

Tacoma  {Fife^  Grand  Pacific^  Sillard  House,  Tacoma),  the  seat  of 
Pierce  County,  with  a  population  of  36,006,  lies  at  the  head  of  Com- 
mencement Bay,  the  extreme  southeastern  harbor  of  Puget  Sound.  It 
has  an  excellent  harbor,  and  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  R.  R.  Here  are  located  its  extensive  shops  for  over  1,000  miles 
of  road,  with  a  system  of  wharves  for  over  2^  miles  in  length.  Water, 
gas,  and  electric-light  works  are  in  operation.  Over  13  miles  of  elec- 
tric street-railway  are  now  in  operation,  and  more  are  in  pi'ocess  of  con- 
struction. It  has  over  a  dozen'  saw-mills,  one  of  them  being  the  largest 
in  the  Northwest,  with  a  capacity  of  400,000  ft.  per  day.  The  output 
of  the  lumber-mills  of  Tacoma  is  upward  of  980,000  ft.  daily.  Its  rail- 
road-shops have  a  complete  plant  for  building  all  kinds  of  cars  and  ma- 
chinery, and  $6,000,000  have  been  authorized  by  the  Northern  Pacific 
R.  R.  Co.  to  be  expended  in  Tacoma  in  terminal  improvements.  Besides 
the  Northern  Pacific  shops  there  are  several  shingle-mills,  4  or  5  iron- 
foundries,  a  furniture-factory,  box-factory,  cornice-works  and  boiler- 
works,  iron  and  stove  works,  cement-works,  several  breweries,  an  ice 
and  refrigerator  company,  electric  soap-works,  a  trunk-manufactory,  oat- 
meal-works, a  cracker-factory,  a  broom-factory,  tile  and  terra-cotta  works, 
etc.  There  are  2  large  fiouring-mills  in  operation,  and  also  a  ship-yai'd. 
The  completion  of  the  Cascade  Div.  of  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  makes 
Tacoma  one  of  the  largest  grain-ports  on  the  Pacific  coast,  tlie  ship- 
ments for  1889  being  18  cargoes  containing  1,45Y,4'75  bushels,  valued 
at  $1,134,525.  Several  grain-warehouses  have  already  been  erected, 
and  a  $150,000  elevator,  the  only  one  on  Puget  Sound,  is  now  in  oper- 
ation. The  Ryan  Smelter,  with  a  capacity  of  reducing  500  tons  of  ore 
a  day,  has  been  in  operation  since  May  1,  1890.  It  derives  its  support 
from  the  rapidly  developing  mining  interests  of  the  Coeur  d'Alene,  Col- 
ville,  Salmon  River,  and  other  districts  in  Washington,  Idaho,  and  Brit- 
ish Columbia.  Thirty  miles  distant  from  Tacoma,  in  the  foot-hills  of 
the  Cascade  Mountains,  are  immense  beds  of  bituminous  coking-coal 
now  being  worked.  These,  taken  in  connection  with  large  deposits  of 
iron-ore  existing  in  the  same  locaUty,  will  soon  be  the  means  of  estab- 
lishing extensive  iron-works  at  Tacoma.  The  railroad  has,  at  a  cost  of 
$150,000,  built  coal-bunkers  at  its  wharves  in  Tacoma  with  a  capacity 
of  4,000  tons.  There  were  shipped  from  Tacoma,  in  1889,  269,400 
tons  of  coal,  valued  at  $1,212,300.  There  is  much  good  farming-land 
tributary  to  Tacoma,  lying  between  the  Puyallup  and  Nesqually  Rivers, 
extending  to  the  Cascade  Mountains,  including  the  rich  hop-lands  of  the 
famous  Puyallup  Valley.  This  valley,  together  with  the  White  River 
Valley,  produces  the  finest  hops  in  the  Northwest,  with  an  average  yield 
of  1,800  pounds  to  the  acre.  The  country  round  about  Tacoma  is 
adapted  to  the  raising  of  fruits,  hay,  hops,  and  vegetables  generally. 
The  chief  business  streets  are  well  built  up  with  brick  edifices.  The 
wholesale  trade  for  the  vear  1889  ran  from  $8,000,000  to  $10,000,000. 


Route  106.]  WASHINGTOIS".  487 

There  are  21  banks,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $6, 755,000;  4  public 
halls:  the  Tacoma  Theatre,  costing  $150,000,  and  seating  1,200  people; 
3  daily  (2  morning)  and  6  weekly  newspapers ;  7  public-school  build- 
ings, valued  at  $264,480 ;  the  Annie  Wright  Seminary,  the  Washing- 
ton College  (both  of  which  are  Episcopal  institutions,  endowed  with 
S50,000  each  by  C.  B.  Wright,  of  Philadelphia),  and  the  Methodist  Uni- 
versity for  the  Pacific  Northwest ;  30  churches ;  2  hospitals,  one  entitled 
the  "'Fannie  Paddock  Hospital,"  costing  $50,000.  The  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  organized  in  1884,  erected  its  building  at  a  cost  of  $30,000, 
and  have  now  under  way  a  larger  building  costing  $250,000.  The 
general  offices  of  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  on  the  Pacific  coast  are 
located  in  Tacoma,  a  fine  office-building  costing  $150,000  having  been 
erected  recently  for  that  purpose. 

From  Tacoma  the  steamboats  of  the  Pnget  Sound  &  Alaska  S.  S.  Co.,  run- 
ning in  connection  with  the  Northern  Pacific  E.  R.,  may  be  taken  to  all  parts 
of  Puget  Sound.  A  trip  to  Victoria  or  Bellingham  Bay  will  be  foimd  the  most 
enjoyable.  By  either  route  the  passenger  may  see  the  principal  attractions  of 
the  Sound  in'^a  single  day.  The  Olympic  Range,  snow-capped,  rugged,  and 
heavily  timbered,  so  that  only  recently  has  it  been  penetrated  and  partially  ex- 
plored ;  also  the  Cascade  Range,  its  various  peaks,  from  Mt.  Tacoma  to  Mt. 
Baker,  and  the  islands,  both  large  and  small,  timbered  to  the  water's  edge,  are 
prominent  featm-es  of  the  trip.  Other  trips  are  to  Olympia,  to  Snohomish,  and 
to  Port  Townsend,  by  the  inside  route,  where  some  of  the  largest  lumber-mills 
on  the  Sound  are  seen  at  Ports  Madison,  Gamble,  and  Ludlow.  For  the  two 
last-named  trips  a  change  of  boats  is  made  at  Seattle.  For  Victoria,  a  steamer 
leaves  every  day,  except  Sunday,  at  8  a.  m.,  stopping  at  Seattle  and  Port  Town- 
send  ;  arriving  at  Victoria  at  4.30  p.  m.,  and  again  leaving  there  at  8.30  p.  m.  on 
return  trip.  This  gives  the  tourist  time  to  see  the  charming  city  of  Victoria, 
so  diif erent  from  American  cities  ;  and  also  the  Naval  Station  at  Esquimault, 
with  the  large  dry-dock  of  granite,  while  in  the  harbor  are  always  some  of  the 
English  men-of-war.  At  Victoria,  connections  are  made  with  the  steamer  for 
Vancouver  and  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  For  Bellingham  Bay,  stopping 
at  Seattle,  Port  Townsend,  and  Anacortes,  a  steamer  leaves  every  day,  except 
Saturday,  at  6  p.  m.,  giving  the  tourist  an  opportunity  to  see  Seattle  in  the  even- 
ing and  all  the  country  by  daylight  on  the  return  trip,  leaving  Bellingham  Bay 
at  7.30  A.  M. 

Olympia  (population  4,498),  capital  of  Washington  and  seat  of 
Thurston  County,  is  on  Puget  Sound,  and  is  reached  by  the  Port  Town- 
send  &  Southern  R.  R.  Trains  run  between  Olympia  and  Tenino,  the 
junction  of  the  Pacific  Div.  of  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  It  has  water- 
works, gas  and  electric-light  works,  street-cars,  telephone  system,  10 
hotels,  1  bank,  4  newspapers,  3  pubfic  halls,  6  churches,  2  special  re- 
ligious and  educational  institutions,  60  stores,  a  U.  S.  Land-Office,  6 
school-buildings,  5  saw-mills,  2  sash  and  door  factories,  4  shingle-mills, 
and  1  large  water  and  gas  pipe  manufactory.  Its  products  are  grain, 
hay,  fruit,  and  vegetables. 

Seattle  {Grand^  Rainier^  Russ\  seat  of  King  County,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  43,914,  is  situated  on  Elliott  Bay,  one  of  the  best  harbors  on 
the  Pacific.  The  location  is  on  a  peninsula,  bounded  on  the  west  by 
Elliott  Bay,  on  the  north  by  Sahnon  Bay,  Lake  Ilnion,  and  the  Ocean 
Canal  (noAV  building),  connecting  Seattle  Harbor  and  Lake  Washington, 
where  U.  S,  engineers  have  recommended  the  location  of  the  Govern- 
ment Naval  Station  and  ship-yards  for  the  North  Pacific.     Lake  Wash- 


488  WASHINGTON.  [Route  106. 

ington,  28  miles  long  and  4  miles  wide,  and  the  Falls  of  Snoqualmin 
are  worth  visiting.  The  great  natural  resources  of  King  County  em- 
brace 60,000  acres  of  coal-fields,  mountains  of  hematite  iron-ore,  and 
valleys  of  wonderfully  productive  soil  in  hops,  hay,  potatoes,  grain, 
vegetables,  and  fruits.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  covered  with  fir, 
spruce,  ced;ir,  and  hard-wood  timber.  Seattle  is  connected  almost  hourly 
with  Tacoma  by  both  rail  and  steamer,  and  with  all  Sound  ports,  as  well 
as  Pacific  coast  and  foreign  ports,  by  regular  lines  of  steamers.  Seat- 
tle has  3  standard,  besides  1  narrow-gauge,  railroads  diverging  east, 
north,  and  south  through  the  coal-fields  and  valleys,  51  miles  of  cable 
and  electric  railway  street-car  lines,  13  banks,  4  building  and  loan  asso- 
ciations, 43  churches,  14  school-houses,  the  University  of  Washington 
and  a  Catholic  academy,  2  large  hospitals,  5  daily  and  10  weekly  news- 
papers, gas-works  and  3  electric-fight  companies,  telephone  exchange, 
several  large  pubUc  halls,  2  standard  theatres,  a  paid  fire  department 
and  very  thorough  fire  and  water  systems,  embracing  pubUc  water- works 
costing  $1,000,000,  and  a  harbor  fire-boat  costing  $40,000.  Its  manu- 
facturing interests  are  important  and  increasing,  there  being  12  saw- 
mills, 41  brick-yards,  2  ship-yards,  dry-docks,  iron  and  brass  foundries, 
machine-shops,  soap-works,  cracker-factory,  ice-factory,  candy,  sash  and 
door,  furniture,  upholstering  and  excelsior,  carriage  and  wagon,  cigar 
and  box  factories,  wooden-ware  works,  salmon-canneries,  breweries,  tan- 
neries, marble  and  stone  works,  plaster  and  roofing  works,  soda  and 
bottling  works,  dye-works,  creosoting- works,  planing-mills,  boiler-works, 
and  boat-yards.  Seattle  has  33  wholesale  houses — dry-goods,  groceries, 
wooden-ware,  ship-chandlery,  hardware,  and  fiquors.  Its  shipments  are 
coal,  lumber,  piles,  spars,  shingles,  laths,  hops,  salmon,  hay,  grain,  hides, 
wool,  furs,  vegetables,  fruits,  clams,  oysters,  game  (bear,  deer,  grouse, 
ducks),  and  all  varieties  of  fresh  and  salt  water  fish,  and  the  products 
of  the  various  manufactories.  On  June  6,  1889,  nearly  the  entire  busi- 
ness part  of  the  city  was  destroyed  by  fire.  This,  however,  has  been 
rebuilt.  Old  wooden  rows  of  former  years  have  been  replaced  by  mass- 
ive blocks  of  sohd  and  beautiful  brick  buildings;  streets  have  been 
widened  and  straightened,  and  new  ones  created  along  the  water-front. 

Port  Townsend,  the  seat  of  Jefferson  County,  is  an  important 
port  on  the  west  side  of  Port  Townsend  Bay,  with  a  population  of  4,588. 
It  is  the  port  of  entry  for  the  Puget  Sound  customs  district.  It  has 
several  hotels,  5  national  banks,  1  opera-house,  1  saw-mill,  1  foundry 
and  machine-shop,  1  sash  and  door  factory,  2  public  halls,  2  daily  and 
weekly  newspapers,  1  large  school-building,  6  churches,  and  new  water- 
works. The  surrounding  country  is  heavily  timbered.  Its  shipments 
include  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  hay,  and  pelts.  Deer,  geese,  and  ducks 
are  abundant ;  also  haUbut,  sahnon,  and  bass.  Fori  Townsend^  a  post 
of  two  companies,  2^  miles  distant  by  water  and  5  miles  by  land,  is  on 
the  west  side  of  the  bay.     A  marine  hospital  is  located  here. 


Route  107A       ST.  PAUL  TO  THE  PACIFIC  COAST.  489 


107.  St.  Paul  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Via  the  Great  Northern  Railway. 

This  route  starts  from  St.  Paul,  and  between  that  city  and  Min- 
neapolis fll  miles)  the  Great  Northern  Railway  has  four  tracks  pass- 
ing through  a  well-settled  suburban  district,  with  frequent  stations, 
which  are  described  in  Route  8Y.  From  Minneapolis  the  Great 
Northern  has  two  lines  running  to  the  West,  the  Montana  Pacific  route 
following  the  Mississippi  River  to  Anoka  and  St.  Cloud,  and  reaching 
the  Red  River  at  Grand  Forks,  N.  D.,  while  the  Manitoba  Pacific  route 
leads  ofE  to  Lake  Minnetonka  and  reaches  the  Red  River  at  Brecken- 
ridge  and  Wahpeton. 

On  the  Montana  Pacific  route,  up  the  Mississippi  65  miles  to  Si. 
Cloud.^  the  Great  Northern  has  tracks  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  The 
outgoing  Montana  train  passes  along  the  east  bank  and  returns  on  the 
west  side. 

a.   The  Montana  Pacific  Route. 

Anoka  and  Elk  River  are  the  main  points  on  the  east  side,  the 
former  with  a  population  of  4,252,  and  a  number  of  manufacturing 
plants  with  power  furnished  by  Rum  River,  which  here  empties  into 
the  Mississippi  River ;  while  the  latter  has  a  population  of  1,068,  and 
also  good  water-power  from  Elk  River.  From  here  a  branch  line  ex- 
tends to  3Iilaca,  the  nearest  point  to  one  of  Minnesota's  largest  inland 
bodies  of  water — Alille  Zacs,  located  in  an  Indian  Reservation  of  the 
same  name.  Trains  on  this  line  run  directly  through  from  St.  Paul  and 
Minneapolis  to  Hinckley,  Didxth,  and  West  Superior.  At  various  points 
along  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Cloud  large  rafts  of  logs  from  the  forests 
of  the  upper  river  and  tributaries  are  seen,  either  in  booms  along  shore 
or  leisurely  floatmg  to  the  mills.  The  intermediate  places  are  Itaska, 
Big  Lake,  Becker,  Clear  Lake,  and  Haven. 

St.  Cloud  is  a  bustling  city  of  7,686  population,  and  the  seat  of  a 
State  Normal  School  and  a  State  Reformatory ;  it  is  also  the  See  city 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  Diocese  of  Central  Minnesota.  The  granite 
quarries  here  are  extensive,  and  large  quantities  of  stone  for  build- 
ing and  paving  purposes  are  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  On 
the  west  side  line  between  Minneapolis  and  St.  Cloud  the  principal 
points  are  Osseo,  St.  Michaels,  Monticello,  Clear  Water,  and  Augusta, 
modest  market-places  for  the  surrounding  agricultural  districts.  Be- 
yond St.  Cloud  the  train  plunges  into  the  Park  Region,  where  the  track 
winds  and  curves  around  the  shores  of  the  lakes,  or,  as  if  thwarted  in 
its  design  of  remaining  on  dry  land,  pushes  through  the  center  of 
many  a  lake,  giving  one  the  novel  sensation  of  being  at  sea  on  a  rail- 
way train.  The  water  is  combined  so  intricately  with  the  land  Ihat 
one  can  not  tell  whether  the  land  is  islands  or  the  water  lakes. 

Seven  miles  away  from  St.  Cloud  is  St.  Joseph,  a  busy  little  town, 
with  flour  and  saw  mills  driven  by  water  from  the  Sauk  River;  and 
then  CoUegeville,  with  St.  John's  University,  a  popular  Catholic  school. 


490  ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.       {Route   107. 

is  reached.  In  succession,  Avon,  Albany,  Freeport,  and  J/e/rose  are 
passed  to  Sauk  Centre  j  a  progressive  community  of  1,695  inhabit- 
ants. From  here  a  branch  line  extends  91  miles  to  Park  Rapids, 
passing  on  the  way  through  the  towns  of  Long  Prairie  (the  seat  of  Todd 
County),  Browerville,  Clarissa,  Eagle  Bend,  Heioett,  Wadena  (the  seat  of 
Wadena.  County),  Leaf  River,  Sebeka,  2Jidi  Menahga.  Park  Eapids  is 
the  seat  of  Hubbard  County,  m  the  Itascan  basin,  where  the  Missis- 
sippi River  has  its  source,  around  the  head-waters  of  which  a  State  Park 
has  been  estabhshed.  Park  Eapids  is  the  outfitting  point  to  the  Park, 
and  also  to  the  Leech  Lake  country,  in  which  there  are  fine  fishing  and 
hunting.  Passing  the  town  of  West  Union,  on  the  main  line,  the 
train  enters  the  lake-gemmed  county  of  Douglas  at  OsaJcis,  130  miles 
from  St.  Paul.  This  county  contains  no  less  than  150  lakes,  none 
smaller  than  50  acres  in  area.  Lake  Osakis  is  13  miles  long  and  3  in 
width,  and  is  well  supplied  with  sail  and  row  boats ;  but,  for  this  mat- 
ter, all  the  principal  lakes  of  the  entire  region  are  equipped  with  sail- 
ing craft.  Fish  in  plenty  can  be  lured  from  the  depths  of  these  many 
waters.  Hotels  are  scattered  about,  where  invalids  and  rest-seekers 
can  be  at  ease,  and  fresh  provisions  had  from  farmers  and  neighbor- 
ing stores  for  the  campers  whose  "  cotton  houses  "  dot  the  shores  and 
prairie  openings.  The  summer  air  is  bracing,  fogs  are  unknown,  and 
healthful  breezes  come  from  the  western  plains  and  the  pine  forests  of 
the  north.  Osakis  has  good  hotel  facilities.  The  main  summer  house, 
known  as  Fairvieio,  stands  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  with  cottages  in 
adjoining  groves,  occupied  during  the  warm  months  by  city  folks. 
Twelve  miles  from  Osakis  lies  the  town  of  Alexandria,  the  seat  of 
justice  of  Douglas  County,  fairly  hemmed  in  with  water.  Lakes  are  in 
sight  in  every  direction — little  gems  such  as  Nevf  Englanders  would  call 
ponds,  teeming  with  lilies  and  fi-inged  about  with  wild  rice,  the  feed- 
ing and  breedin  ■  gi^ounds  of  wild  ducks  and  geese.  A  few  miles  east 
of  Alexandria  there  is  a  chain  of  ten  or  twelve  lakes,  connected  by 
channels,  affording  a  variety  for  fishermen  and  sportsmen  hardly 
equaled  in  any  similar  ai'ea  in  the  country.  There  are  several  club- 
houses on  the  shores  of  these  lakes,  occupied  during  the  warm  season 
by  parties  from  Eastern  and  Southern  cities.  Close  to  Alexandria  is 
Geneva  Beach,  with  a  hotel  overlooking  the  water.  Continuing  west- 
ward, Garfield  and  Brandon  are  passed  to  Evansville,  where  a  branch 
line  extends  through  Elbow  Lake  and  Hereford  to  Tintah,  a  junction 
point  on  the  Manitoba  Pacific  route. 

Melbij  is  the  last  point  in  Doudas  County,  the  train  passing  to 
Ashby,  in  Grant  County.  The  Hotel  Kittson  is  the  chief  hostelry  here, 
and  well  deserves  its  popularity  as  a  cozy  country  home.  Ten  miles 
from  Ashby  and  176  from  St.  Paul  the  train  reaches  Balton,  in  Ot- 
tertail  County,  where  stages  are  in  waiting  to  carry  tourists  to  the 
McFarland  House  on  Ten-Mile  Lake,  whei'e  one  is  offered  a  plentiful 
supply  of  Nature  in  its  most  primitive  aspects.  Ottertail  is  one  of 
the  heart  counties  of  the  Park  Region.  Passing  Parkdale,  the  train 
after  an  8-mile  run  reaches  Fergus  Falls,  where  the  Red  River  of 
the  North,  filled  with  the  tribute  of  numberless  lakes,  plunges  in  a  sue- 


Boilte   107.]       ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.  491 

cession  of  rapids  from  the  highlands  to  the  Red  River  Yalley.  This 
city  has  3,772  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  Ottertail  County.  The 
surroundings  are  very  picturesque.  Several  large  factories  have  already 
taken  advantage  of  the  water-power  afforded  by  the  Red  River.  Con- 
tinuing to  the  northwest,  the  train  leaves  the  rolling  uplands  of  the 
Park  Region  and  glides  into  the  smoother  slopes  of  the  eastern  bound- 
ary of  the  Red  River  Valley.  Villages  and  towns  are  passed,  the  clus- 
tered buildings  of  the  big  farms  looking  like  villages  across  the  dead 
level  of  fertile  land.  Carlisle^  Rothsay^  Lawndale^  Barnesville^  Glyn- 
don,  Averill,  Felton,  Ada,  Rollette,  Beltrami,  Kittson,  and  Carman,  in 
turn  are  passed.  There  is  a  fascination  in  the  limitless  expanse  of  un- 
fenced  fields,  of  growing  wheat  and  stubble  land.  The  track  covers 
in  this  distance — 100  miles — the  counties  of  Wilkin,  Clay,  Norman, 
and  Polk.  At  Crookston^  the  seat  of  Polk  County,  the  Red  Lake 
River  is  crossed.  This  stream  has  its  source  in  Red  Lake,  to  the  east- 
ward, in  a  vast  unexplored  region  dotted  with  lakes  and  clothed  with 
forests,  and  abounding  in  minerals.  Three  counties  intervene  between 
this  point  and  Lake  Superior,  but  each  one  is  larger  than  the  State  of 
Connecticut.  Here  are  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  the  lakes  con- 
tributing their  supplies  to  the  great  river  through  innumerable  stieams 
and  rivulets.  Along  the  northern  boundary  is  Rainy  River  and  the 
great  Lake  of  the  Woods.  From  Crookston,  two  branches  run  to  the 
east,  one  terminating  at  Fos&ton,  a  near  railway  point  to  Lake  Itasca, 
the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  the  other  at  St,  Hilaire  ; 
and  one  branch  to  the  north,  99  miles,  to  St.  Vincent — a  continuous 
wheat-field  interspersed  with  wooded  streams,  and  farm-houses,  villages, 
school-houses,  hay-stacks,  and  elevators  always  in  sight — through  the 
towns  of  Shirley,  Euclid,  Angus,  Warren  (the  seat  of  Marshall  Coun- 
ty), Argyle,  Stepheyi.,  Donaldson,  Kennedy,  Hallock  (the  seat  of  Kittson 
County),  Norihcote,  and  Hnmholdt.  Beyond  St.  Vincent  is  Emerson, 
just  over  the  line  in  Manitoba.  Turning  west  from  Crookston  the  rail- 
way takes  its  course  through  a  highly  cultivated  and  beautiful  country, 
passing  in  turn  the  towns  of  Fisher  and  Mallory,  to  the  crossing  of  the 
Red  River  of  the  North  into  North  Dakota  and  the  city  of  Grand 
Forks.  Well-built  residences  and  business  blocks  are  seen  on  every 
side,  and  wheat-fields  encroach  upon  the  city  limits.  The  Red  Lake 
River  brings  great  rafts  of  logs  from  the  Minnesota  forests,  to  be  sawed 
into  lumber  at  the  Grand  Forks  mills,  making  this  city  the  chief  manu- 
facturing point  of  North  Dakota.  The  State  University  is  located  here; 
the  place  is  also  the  crossing  of  the  Manitoba  Pacific  route  from  Fargo 
and  Winnipeg.  Continuing  westward  through  wheat-fields  level  as  the 
ocean  at  rest,  the  grain  elevators  stand  everywhere  on  the  horizon  like 
ships  at  sea.  A  score  of  towns  are  passed :  Ojata,  Emerado,  and  Arville  to 
Lariraore  {t\\e  crossing  of  another  line  of  the  Great  Northern),  Shawnee, 
Niagara,  Petersburg,  Michigan  City,  Mapes,  Lakota,Bartlett,  and  Crary, 
all  passed  in  turn  to  Devils  Lake  City  on  the  shores  of  the  largest 
body  of  water  on  the  plains  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  Indian 
name  is  Minnewaukon,  and  many  interesting  and  romantic  stories  clus- 
ter about  its  history.     Until  recent  years  the  Indians  would  not  sail  or 


192  ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.       [Route   107. 

row  on  its  waters,  and  only  after  the  advent  of  the  white  man  was  the 
surface  navigated.  The  Indians  believed  that  a  bad  spirit  lived  on  the 
bottom  of  the  lake,  and  to  tiouble  the  water  with  a  canoe  would  result 
in  destruction  of  boat  and  occupants.  The  lake  is  50  miles  long  and 
from  -I  to  8  miles  wide,  with  timbered  islands  and  300  miles  of  shore- 
line. I^ort  Totten^  on  the  south  shore,  is  a  Government  military  post 
with  a  small  garrison.  The  trains  of  the  Great  Northern  Railway  line 
connect  at  the  city  of  Devils  Lake  with  a  steamer  for  Fort  Totten,  form- 
ing the  only  direct  line  to  that  post.  The  bathing  in  the  lake  is  par- 
ticularly fine.  The  water  has  an  alkaline  flavor,  and  is  most  helpful, 
it  is  claimed,  in  cases  of  rheumatism  and  skin  diseases.  The  fishing 
is  good  and  often  exciting,  on  account  of  the  gamy  character  of  the 
pickerel,  this  being  the  only  kind  of  fish  in  the  lake.  The  Cuthead 
Sioux  Indian  Reservation  lies  along  the  south  shore  of  the  lake.  The 
tribe  is  well  advanced  in  civilized  habits,  numbers  about  800  persons, 
with  good  schools  and  churches ;  and  yet  tourists  will  see  much  inter- 
esting primitive  life.  Leaving  Devils  Lake,  the  way  is  westward  through 
Churches  Ferry,  whence  a  branch  line  diverges  to  Rolla  and  St. 
John.,  in  the  Turtle  Mountains.  At  Rugby  another  branch  leaves  the 
main  line,  also  running  to  the  Turtle  Mountains  to  the  towns  of  Wil- 
low City  and  Bottineau.  Settlements  now  become  less  frequent,  and 
bands  of  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep  are  seen  cropping  the  buffalo-grass. 
At  every  little  station  heaps  of  buffalo-bones  lie  along  the  tracks,  gath- 
ered from  the  surrounding  country.  Estimating  each  carcass  to  weigh 
fifty  pounds,  the  number  of  these  gigantic  animals  slain  by  hide-hunt- 
ers in  two  or  three  years  in  the  territory  tributary  to  the  railway  must 
have  been  over  a  half-million,  for  many  train-loads  have  already  been 
hauled  away,  and  the  industry  of  bone-picking  is  still  a  profitable  one. 
Minot,  on  the  Mouse  River,  is  the  last  town  of  consequence  in  North 
Dakota.  From  Miuot  to  Williston  and  Fort  Buford,  a  large  military 
post  on  the  upper  Missouri,  the  country  is  rolling  and  hilly.  At  Fort 
Buford  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  is  seen,  adding  its  turbid  flood 
to  the  waters  of  the  Big  Muddy.  For  many  miles  the  way  is  along  the 
valley  of  the  Missouri.  At  Poplar  River  Montana,  is  a  military  post, 
and  the  largest  Indian  school  on  a  railway  in  the  country.  Leaving 
the  Missouri,  the  valley  of  the  Milk  River  is  entered  near  the  town  of 
Glasgow,  a  division  headquarters  of  the  railway.  For  180  miles  now 
the  course  is  along  the  Milk  River.  Here  was  the  scene,  in  188V,  of  the 
fastest  railway  building  operations  ever  known,  involving  the  construc- 
tion of  550  miles  of  substantial  roadway  in  six  months ;  the  uuparalleled 
record  of  laying  S-jV  miles  of  track  in  one  day  was  accomplished.  This 
is  a  ranch  country,  and  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep  graze  the  nutritious 
grasses,  wandering  about  with  no  seeming  ownership,  attaining  matu- 
rity and  going  to  market  without  ev^er  having  a  bite  of  food  other 
than  the  natural  grasses.  To  the  north  and  south  are  the  outline  sen- 
tinel hills,  warning  the  traveler  that  the  mighty  Continental  Range  is 
ahead.  At  Chinook  the  Bear- Paw  Mountains  are  in  plain  view,  across 
vast  hay-meadows,  with  more  farm-houses  in  sight  than  anywhere  else 
so  far  in  Montana.     At  Pacific  Junction,  960  miles  from  St.  Paul, 


Boute  107.]       ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.  493 

the  lines  divide,  one  going  directly  west  through  the  Blackfoot  Indian 
Reservation  and  over  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  Kaiispel,  and  through 
the  Flathead  Lake  country  and  Kootenai  Valley,  across  the  Panhandle 
of  Idaho  to  Spokane,  through  the  State  of  Washington  to  Seattle,  Ta- 
coma,  and  Puget  Sound,  while  the  other  diverges  to  the  southwest  to 
Great  Falls,  Helena,  and  Buite.  Continuing  on  the  line  a  shoi^t  dis- 
tance from  the  Junction,  Fort  Assiniboine,  the  largest  military  post  in 
the  United  States,  is  reached.  The  quarters  are  of  brick,  and  the  cost 
of  construction  to  date  is  naore  than  $2,500,000.  A  full  regiment  of 
troops  is  usually  stationed  here.  The  location  is  sightly,  on  a  clear 
stream  in  the  foot-hills  of  the  Bear-Paw  Mountains.  Between  this 
post  and  Benton  there  are  a  number  of  trading  stations,  where,  until 
branch  railway  lines  cut  off  the  business,  freight  wagon-trains  departed 
for  the  Judith  Basin  and  the  Sweet  Grass  Hills.  These  freighting  trains 
were  made  up  of  five  or  six  wagons  hitched  together  and  drawn  by 
strings  of  fifteen  or  twenty  spans  of  mules  or  yokes  of  oxen.  Benton 
is  a  historic  point  and  head  of  navigation  on  the  Missouri  River,  3,000 
miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Remains  of  the  old  adol>e  fort  are  still 
to  be  seen.  It  was  formerly  a  place  of  great  commercial  importance,  and 
still  lays  claim  to  the  distinction  of  being  Montana's  seaport.  It  is  the 
county-seat  of  Choteau  County,  which  has  an  area  of  over  20,000  square 
miles.  A  few  minor  points  exist  in  the  43  miles  between  Benton  and 
Great  Falls.  This  city  has  its  name  fiom  the  great  falls  cf  the  Mis- 
souri River,  first  made  known  through  the  explorations  of  Lewis  and 
Clarke  early  in  the  present  century.  The  Missouri  is  a  large  stream  at 
this  point,  having  a  width  of  2,800  feet  opposite  the  city  front.  It  nar- 
rows to  1,000  feet  a  half-mile  distant,  preparatory  to  the  first  leap  in 
the  series  of  falls,  the  aggregate  plunge  amounting  to  520  feet.  Close  to 
the  first,  or  Black  Eagle  Falls,  a  giant  spring  bursts  from  the  bank  2() 
feet  above  the  river,  and  pours  down  in  fan-shape  over  a  cascade  of 
rocks  in  volume  sufficient  to  make  a  stream  200  feet  wide  and  5  feet 
deep.  Rainbow  Falls  is  perhaps  the  prettiest  of  the  series,  having  a 
drop  of  full  50  feet,  and  ranks  next  to  the  Great  Falls,  where  the  mighty 
stream  leaps  90  feet.  From  one  point  of  observation  three  different 
falls  and  the  giant  spring  can  be  seen.  Five  ranges  of  mountains 
are  also  in  sight.  A  bi'anch  line  extends  from  here  to  Ne'ihart  and 
Barker,  in  the  Belt  Mountain  mining  region.  For  8  miles  on  this 
route  the  railway  is  through  Sluice-Box  Canon,  where  the  solid  granite 
rises  fully  2,000  feet  above  the  track,  assuming  many  fantastic  forms, 
and  affording  the  grandest  mountain  views  to  be  seen  from  the  car-win- 
dows in  Montana.  The  Great  Falls  &  Canada  Railway  runs  200  miles 
X.  to  Lethbridge  from  this  point.  Leaving  Great  Falls,  with  its  silver 
and  copper  smelters  and  bustling  activity,  the  Sun  River  is  crossed,  and 
the  train  takes  its  way  along  the  banks  of  the  Missouri.  A  high  mount- 
ain wall  stands  in  front ;  a  mighty  rift  in  the  mountainous  uplift  permits 
the  passage  of  the  river — it  is  the  Gate  of  the  Mountains.  The  river 
is  navigable  for  200  miles  ab3ve  this  break  in  the  rocky  wall.  Leaving 
the  river  the  train  enters  Prickly  Pear  Canon,  and  pursues  its  way  in  the 
midst  of  sublime  scenery  to  Helena,  the  capital  of  the  State.     (See 


494  ST.    PAUL    TO    THE    PACIFIC    COAST.       [Route   107. 

page  480.)  This  city  is  surrounded  with  raounti-dus,  fo:ii;!iiig  many 
striking  views.  In  a  romantic  valley  close  by  are  the  famous  Helena 
Hot  Springs.,  where  a  fine  hotel  known  as  the  Broadvcater ,  and  the  most 
attractive  and  commodious  plunge-bath  building  in  America,  have  been 
erected.  The  bath  building  is  of  the  Moorish  style  of  architecture,  320 
by  120  feet,  and  100  feet  high  to  the  main  roof,  which  is  covered  with 
stained  glass.  It  is  75  miles  from  Helena  to  Butte  over  the  main  range 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  passing  en  route  through  the  important  raining 
towns  of  Jefferson.,  Wickcs.,  and  Boulder.  The  backbone  of  the  conti- 
nent is  pierced  at  the  height  of  6,200  feet  by  a  tunnel  made  at  a  cost 
of  over  $1,000,000.  Passing  from  the  gloom  of  the  great  hole  through 
the  rocks  the  train  makes  a  short  turn,  and  brings  into  view  across  a 
wide  valley  the  city  of  Butte,  distinguished  for  its  mines  of  copper  and 
silver.  The  mountains  around,  and  the  ground  under  the  city,  are 
honeycombed  with  shafts,  drifts,  and  tunnels,  where  thousands  of  men 
work  every  day  in  the  year  and  every  hour  in  the  day — the  men  work- 
ing in  8-hour  shifts.  Many  of  the  places  of  business  also  run  night  and 
day.  The  liquor-traffic  is  large,  and  gambling  is  public  under  license. 
Close  connection  is  made  at  Butte  wuth  the  IJnion  Pacific  System  for 
Anaconda,  Pocatello,  Ogden,  Salt  Lake  City,  Portland, 
and  San  Francisco.     (See  Route  90.) 

h.  Manitoba  Pacific  Route. 
The  trains  of  this  route  of  the  Great  Northern  use  the  same  tracks 
between  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  but  at  the  latter  city  take  another 
direction  through  the  Park  Region,  touching  Lake  Minnetonka  at  l/Vay- 
zata.,  whence  a  branch  extends  to  MinnetonJca  Beach  {Hotel  Lafayette) 
and  Spring  Park.  Pretty  towns  are  passed  in  rapid  succession,  for 
this  is  a  well-settled  and  prosperous  agricultural  district,  diversified 
with  prairies,  forests,  and  lakes — Long  Lake.,  Maple  Plain.,  Arm.<itrong, 
in  the  order  to  Delano,  a  town  of  889  people,  located  on  Crow  River, 
a  water-power  stream.  Then  Montrose,  Waverly,  Hoicard  Lake,  Smith 
Lake,  Cokato,  Dassel,  and  Darivin,  all  small  towns,  drawing  business 
and  pro'^perity  from  the  surrounding  farm  and  wood  lands.  Liitcli- 
field,  76  miles  from  St.  Paul,  is  a  popular  summer  resort  on  account 
of  Lake  Ripley  and  its  charming  surroundings.*  The  hotel  at  Bright- 
wood  Beach  is  ample,  and  has  a  number  of  cottages  in  addition.  The 
population  is  1,899.  Near  Litchfield  occurred  a  decisive  battle  during 
the  Sioux  war  of  1862,  and  a  monument  to  the  murdered  settlers  stands 
on  the  spot.  Grove  City,  Atioatev,  and  Kandiyohi  are  passed  to  Will- 
mar,  w^here  the  Great  Northern  branches  lead  off  to  Sioux  Falls, 
S.  D.,  and  Sioux  City,  Iowa.  Then  Pennock,  Kerkhoven,  Murdock, 
and  Degraff  are  passed  to  Benson,  where  a  Great  Northern  branch  starts 
for  Water'town  and  Huron,  in  South  Dakota.  Benson  is  the  seat  of 
Swift  County,  and  is  located  on  the  Chippewa  River.  It  has  1,351 
inhabitants,  and  a  thrifty  farming  country  all  about.  Clontarf  and 
Hancock  are  the  intermediate  points  to  Morris,  the  seat  of  Stevens 
County,  157  miles  from  St.  Paul.  Several  mills  and  factories  make 
use  of  the  power  furnished  by  Pomme  de  Terre  River.     The  popula- 


Route  107.]      ST.    PAUL    TO   THE   PACIFIC   COAST.  495 

tion  is  1,503.  A  branch  of  the  Great  Northern  runs  from  here  through 
Graceville  to  Brovm's  Valley,  on  the  boundary  of  the  Sisseton-Wahpe- 
ton  Indian  Reservation  in  South  Dakota.  This  town  has  been  quite 
a  report,  owing  to  its  proximity  to  Lake  Traverse,  one  of  the  sources 
of  the  Red  River,  and  of  Big  Stone  Lake,  whence  the  Minnesota  River 
rises.  Li  times  of  flood  the  waters  of  the  two  mingle,  and,  dividing, 
flow  north  to  Hudson  Bay  and  south  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Leaving 
Morris,  the  course  is  northwesterly  through  Donnelly,  Moose  Island, 
Herman,  Nor  cross,  Tintah,  whence  branch  lines  lead  away  to  North 
and  South  Dakota  points,  including  Hankinson,  Lidgerwoocl,  Rutland, 
Ellendale,  and  Aberdeen.  Then  Campbell  and  Doran  are  passed  to 
Brechenridge,  the  seat  of  Wilkin  County.  A  mile  distant,  across  the 
Red  River,  is  Wahpetoii,  the  seat  of  Richland  County,  N.  D.  It  has 
a  population  of  1,510.  Branch  lines  of  the  Great  Northern  run  from 
here  to  Casselton,  Hope,  Mayville,  Portland,  Larimore,  Dvnght,  and 
other  places  in  North  Dakota.  Dwight  is  the  seat  of  the  famous 
Dwight  farm,  belonging  to  the  New  York  Congressman  of  the  same 
name,  and  managed  by  Governor  John  Miller,  North  Dakota's  first 
chief  executive.  A  number  of  small  towns  are  scatterei  along  the  line 
to  Moorhead,  a  place  of  2,088  inhabitants,  on  the  Minnesota  side  of 
the  Red  River,  and  seat  of  Clay  County.  From  here  a  branch  extends 
N.  through  several  towns  to  Halstad.  Just  opposite  Moorhead  is 
Fargo,  seat  of  Cass  County,  N.  D.  Fargo  has  a  population  of  5,664. 
Continuing  northward,  the  towns  of  Hariuood,  Argxisville,  Gardner, 
and  Grandin,  seat  of  one  of  the  Dalrymple  farms,  which  produces 
yearly  from  150,000  to  200,000  bushels  of  wheat,  are  passed.  This 
farm  has  averaged  18  bushels  to  the  acre  for  12  years,  and  netted  the 
proprietors  over  $600,000.  Kelso,  Alton,  Hillsboro,  seat  of  Trail  Coun- 
ty, Cumrnings,  Buxton,  Reynolds,  Thompson,  and  Merrifield  are  passed 
to  Grand  Forks,  Grain  elevators  and  flouring-mills  are  prominent 
objects  in  every  county,  for  this  is  the  heart  of  the  No.  1  hard-wheat 
district  of  the  Red  River  Valley.  We  continue  northward  through 
the  towns  of  Manvell,  Ardock,  Minto,  Grafton,  seat  of  Walsh  County, 
whence  the  Pembina  Mountain  branch  leads  off  to  Nash,  Crystal, 
Hoople,  and  Cavalier.  Next  is  Aubmm,  then  St.  Thomas,  Glass/on, 
Hamilton,  Bathgate,  and  at  last  Neche,  on  the  forty-ninth  parallel,  and 
the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  the  Canadian  province  of 
Manitoba.  The  same  scenes  are  repeated — wheat-fields,  farm-houses, 
elevators,  and  flouring-mills.  This  is  an  interesting  region.  Histor- 
ically it  is  the  oldest  settled  part  of  the  Northwest,  but  actually  the 
youngest  in  the  way  of  modern  growth.  The  first  settlement  was  a 
Hudson  Bay  fur-trading  post,  established  100  years  ago.  Then  followed 
the  Selkirk  colonists,  who  vacated  for  more  northerly  homes  after  the 
adjustment  of  the  boundary-line  brought  them  within  the  United  States. 
There  are  a  good  many  Canadians  and  a  considerable  number  of  Ice- 
landers in  the  country,  all  of  whom  are  thrifty,  intelligent,  and  indus- 
trious. An  Icelander  was  a  member  of  a  recent  Legislature.  A  strik- 
ing thing  about  this  part  of  the  country  is  the  long  days  of  summer. 
It  has  been  said  that  "the  country  is  so  big  that  it  takes  the  sun  all 


496  MONTREAL    TO    VANCOUVER,    B.  C.    [Boute   108. 

night  to  go  down."  One  can  read  the  newspapers  here  till  near  ten 
o'clock  at  night  by  daylight.  Perhaps  here  is  one  of  the  secrets  of  the 
rapid  maturity  of  the  grain,  root,  and  vegetable  crops.  This  country 
has  over  200  hours  more  light  during  May,  June,  and  July  than  in  the 
Ohio  Valley,  and  light  is  the  great  factor  in  growth.  Crossing  the 
boundary  the  first  town  under  the  English  flag  is  Gretna.  For  66 
miles  the  way  is  in  the  midst  of  settlements  of  Mennonites,  Scotch,  and 
French  half-breeds,  to  Winnipeg,  the  chief  city  of  a  vast  region. 
Here  the  main  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  is  reached,  and  the  way  for 
1,800  miles  to  the  Pacific  coast  is  over  plains  and  rivers  and  across 
five  ranges  of  mountains,  affording  scenery  not  equaled  elsewhere  in 
America.     (See  Route  108.) 

108.  Canadian  Pacific  Hailway,  from  Montreal  to 
Vancouver,  B.  G. 

The  city  of  Montreal  has  been  described  in  Route  60.  (See  also 
Appletons'  Canadian  Guide-Book,  Part  II.,  Western  Canada.)  From 
this  city  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  crosses  the  St.  Lawrence  above  the 
Lachine  Rapids  and  passes  through  a  portion  of  the  province  of  Quebec 
to  Hull,  where  it  recrosses  the  St.  Lawrence  and  runs  to  Ottawa,  whence 
it  passes  up  the  banks  of  the  Ottawa  River  to  Lake  Nipissing,  in  Onta- 
rio, so  well  known  to  sportsmen.  From  Lake  Nipissing  it  passes  directly 
westward  through  a  wild  and  picturesque  region  of  forest,  lake,  and  rock, 
until  it  reaches  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior  at  Heron  Bay.  For 
nearly  200  miles  the  line  is  laid  along  the  shore  of  this  bay  through 
and  along  enormous  cliffs  of  granite,  cutting  and  tunneling  its  way  to 
Port  Arthur,  a  prettily  situated  town  on  rising  ground,  overlooking 
Thunder  Bay,  a  landlocked  inlet  of  Lake  Superior ;  while  in  front  are 
the  cliffs  of  Thunder  Cape  and  Pie  Island.  It  can  be  reached  also  by 
the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Co.'s  steamers  from  Owen  Sound,  Georgian 
Bay,  on  the  Toronto  branch  of  the  line,  or  by  lake-steamers  (Route  104) 
from  Buffalo,  Detroit,  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  etc.  Five  miles  west  of  Port 
Arthur  is  Fort  William,  with  a  natural  harbor  11  miles  in  extent,  a 
breadth  of  350  ft.,  and  a  depth  of  10  ft.  The  city  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kaministiquia  River,  a  picturesque  river  with  numerous  falls,  and  run- 
ning through  a  rich  agricultural  region.  The  railway  company  has 
erected  here  two  elevators  of  the  capacity  of  1,300,000  bushels  each, 
and  are  building  a  third  of  still  greater  size.  Passing  through  a  for- 
est and  lake  covered  region,  the  traveler  reaches  Rat  Portag^e  (293 
miles  from  Fort  William),  at  the  head  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  It 
is  the  seat  of  an  extensive  lumber-trade,  has  good  water-power,  and 
rich  mineral  deposits  have  been  discovered  in  the  neighborhood. 
Winnipeg  (426  miles  from  Fort  William),  the  capital  of  Manitoba, 
has  been  described  in  Route  63.  Here  is  the  junction  point  for  traffic 
via  St.  Paul  and  Chicago.  Portage  la  Prairie  (485  miles)  is  the  cen- 
ter of  a  rich  wheat  country,  and  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Manitoba 
&  Northwestern  Railway,  which  runs  in  a  N.  W.  direction  to  Prince 
Albert.,  a  few  miles  below  the  forks  of  the  Saskatchewan,  through  a 


Route  108.\       MOXTREAL    TO    YAXCOUVEE,    B.  C.  497 

rich  grazing  and  farming  country.  The  next  most  important  town  to 
Winnipeg  is  Brandon  (562  miles),  admirably  situated  at  the  crossing 
of  the  Assiniboine  River,  with  picturesque  hills  on  both  sides,  and  in 
the  center  of  flourishing  settlements.  It  has  five  elevators,  several  mills, 
and  packing-houses.  It  is  the  center  of  trade  for  the  region  N.  to  Min- 
nedosa  and  S.  to  Turtle  Mountain.  Passing  Whiteicood,  the  train 
reaches  Broadview  (679  miles),  at  the  head  of  Weed  Lake,  the  center 
of  several  colonies,  and  Indian  Head  (743  miles),  in  a  charaiing  situa- 
tion, with  a  large  and  well-appointed  brick  hotel.  The  fishing  lakes  on 
the  Qu'Appelle  River,  8  miles  N.,  and  other  lakes  6  miles  to  the  N., 
offer  special  attractions.  Here  is  the  celebi-ated  "  Bell  Farm  "  of  64,000 
acres.  The  Great  Western  &  Central  Railway  runs  from  Brandon  to 
points  N.  and  ^ST.  W.  The  town  of  Qu'Appelle  (753  miles)  is  situ- 
ated S.  of  the  fort  bearing  that  name,  and  is  a  flourishing  town.  The 
Government  has  erected  commodious  Immigration  Buildings  close  to 
the  railroad-station,  and  the  College  Farm  of  Bishop  Anson  is  about  2 
miles  N.  W.  Excellent  sport  can  be  had  in  the  valley,  and  the  lakes 
abound  with  fish  and  water-fowl.  To  the  X.  are  found  wapiti,  moose, 
and  antelope.  Regina  (786  miles)  is  the  capital  of  Assiniboia,  on  the 
Wascana  River.  Here  reside  the  Lieutenant-Governor  and  the  Indian 
and  other  oflScials,  and  here  the  Northwest  Council  meets.  A  branch 
railway  runs  from  Regina  by  way  of  Long  Lake,  a  sheet  of  water  65 
miles  long,  to  the  Saskatchewan  River.  At  Bunmore  the  Alberta  Rail- 
way &  Coal  Co.'s  line  branches  off  S.  W.  to  Lethbridge  (110  miles),  the 
center  of  vast  coal-fields,  from  which  large  shipments  are  made  to  Win- 
nipeg and  other  points  E.  At  3Iedicine  Hat  (1,090  miles)  the  railway 
crosses  the  Saskatchewan  River  by  a  substantial  iron  bridge.  The  coun- 
try now  becomes  a  ranch  country,  of  which  Calgary  is  the  center 
(1,269  miles),  where  cattle  are  pastured  for  hundreds  of  miles  on  the 
rich  prairies  and  along  the  foot-hills.  The  town  stands  about  60  miles 
from  the  foot  of  the  great  front  range  of  the  Rockies,  at  the  junction 
of  the  Bow  and  Elbow  Rivers,  and  the  great  ranches  are  on  the  former 
river.  Banff  (1,349  miles)  is  an  attractive  stopping-place,  as  it  is  in 
the  Canadian  N'ational  ParA\  and  possesses  famous  Hot  Spriiigs.  This 
park  is  a  tract  of  many  square  miles,  embracing  every  variety  of  scenery, 
which  the  Government  has  made  accessible  by  many  carriage-roads  and 
bridle-paths.  In  the  rivers  and  lakes  trout  are  plentiful,  and  in  the 
hills  and  forests  roam  deer,  mountain-sheep,  and  goats.  The  railway 
company  has  built  a  very  large  and  well-appointed  hotel,  capable  of 
accommodating  800  guests,  which  ranks  among  the  best  in  the  coun- 
try. Beyond  Banff  the  traveler  sees  the  splintered  and  fantastic  form 
of  Castle  Mountain.  About  17  miles  W.  of  Castle  Mountain  is  Lag- 
ga7i^  the  station  for  the  lakes  in  the  clouds.  These  three  sheets  of 
water.  Lakes  Louise,  Mirror,  and  Agnes,  lie  above  one  another,  hidden 
in  the  hollows  of  the  mountains,  high  up  above  the  line  of  railway. 
These  lakes  are  singularly  beautiful,  and  few  people  visit  Banff  Hot 
Springs  without  making  the  trip.  Ponies  and  vehicles  are  provided  for 
those  who  do  not  care  to  walk.  After  surmounting  the  main  range  of 
the  Rockies  at  Kicking-Horse  Pass,  the  road  crosses  the  upper  Colum- 
33 


498  MONTREAL    TO    VANCOUVER,    B.  C.      [Boute   108. 

bia,  clears  the  Selkirk  Range^  recrosses  the  Columbia,  and,  passing 
through  the  Gold  Range^  enters  the  valley  of  the  Thompson  River. 
The  valley  of  the  Thompson  is  a  ranching  and  farming  country.  This 
river  empties  into  the  great  Fraser  River  at  Lytton  (1,'754  miles),  and 
thence  to  the  coast,  a  distance  of  150  miles,  the  railway  traverses  the 
depths  of  the  canons  of  the  Fraser,  following  all  the  windings  of  that 
mighty  stream,  between  walls  of  stupendous  height.  The  scenery  of 
this  part  of  the  road,  by  which  the  Okinagan  and  Cascade  Ranges  of 
mountains  are  passed,  is  quite  as  remarkable  in  its  way  as  that  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  division. 

A  writer,  describing  the  journey  from  Calgary,  says  :  "Now  begins  a  series 
of  visions  and  experiences  beside  which  all  seen  before  dwindles  into  insignifi- 
cance. Upward,  seemingly  close  at  hand,  are  the  naked  ledges  lifted  above  the 
last  fringe  of  vegetation,  wide  spaces  of  never-wasting  snow,  and  the  wrinkled 
backs  of  glaciers  whence  cataracts  come  leaping  into  the  concealment  of  the 
forest.  In  some  places,  where  the  railway  reaches  the  highest  levels,  the  line  is 
carried  almost  under  the  shadow  of  great  fields  of  perpetual  ice,  glaciers  beside 
which  those  of  Switzerland  would  be  insignificant,  and  so  near  them  that  the 
shining  green  fissures  penetrating  their  mass  can  be  distinctly  seen.  When 
finally  the  Rockies,  the  Selkirks,  and  the  Gold  Range  are  all  crossed,  and  the 
pretty  lakes  of  British  Columbia  have  been  left  behind,  there  comes  the  amaz- 
ing scenery  of  the  Fraser,  where  a  river  as  large  as  the  Ohio  rushes  in  a  mighty 
torrent  between  towering  cliffs,  and  the  railway  follows  all  its  windings.  New 
mountains  exhibit  themselves,  where,  above  the  river-crags,  the  eye  catches 
glimpses  of  the  Okinagan  Range  or  the  snow-peaks  of  the  Cascades  ;  and  it  is 
only  after  these  coast-guarding  heights  have  been  traversed  that  the  Pacific 
shore  is  reached." 

Sleeping-cars  run  through  without  change  between  Montreal  and  the 
Pacific  coast.  Dining-cars  accompany  all  transcontinental  trains  as 
far  as  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  the  hotels  previously  spoken  of 
make  them  unnecessary.  These  chalets  are  not  the  ordinary  stopping- 
places  for  meals.  They  are  comfortable  and  luxurious  hotels,  where 
tourists  frequently  stay  for  many  days,  hunting,  fishing,  or  wandering 
about  the  glaciers  or  other  localities  of  scenic  interest.  The  Pacific  ter- 
minus of  the  road  is  at  Vancouver  (  Vancouver  Hotel ;  pop.,  13, '709), 
on  Burrard  Inlet — a  city  with  a  fine  harbor  and  extensive  port  fa- 
cilities. This  is  the  Canadian  port  of  departure  of  the  Canadian  Pa- 
cific Railway  Co.'s  royal  mail  steamships  for  Japan  and  China.  They 
sail  about  once  a  month  for  Yokohama  and  other  ports  of  Japan  and 
China,  and  are  described  by  travelers  as  being  far  beyond  any  other 
steamers  that  have  as  yet  sailed  upon  the  Pacific  Ocean.  They  are 
called  the  Empress  of  India,  Empress  of  Japan,  and  Empress  of  China. 
On  one  occ^ision,  during  the  summer  of  1891,  the  Japan  mail  was  de- 
livered in  London  in  21  days  from  the  time  of  leaving  Yokohama.  A 
daily  line  of  steamers  forms  a  ferry  to  Victoria,  on  Vancouver  Island, 
and  the  capital  of  British  Columbia.  From  either  Victoria  or  Van- 
couver daily  connection  is  made  by  steamer  with  local  ports  on  Puget 
Sound,  and  once  a  week  with  San  Francisco,  There  is  a  regular  steam- 
ship service  from  Vancouver  for  Japan  and  China,  and  for  Alaska. 

Victoria,  B.  C.  {Driard  House),  is  also  reached  by  steamer 
from  Portland  and  by  Puget  Sound  steamers,  and  is  situated  in  the 
southeastern  part  of  Vancouver  Island,  on  Victoria  Harbor,  immedi- 


Route   109.]  BALTIMORE    TO    RICHMOND.  4:90 

ately  off  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca.  The  AdmiDistration  Bnildmgs, 
which  include  the  Capitol,  are  a  group  of  thoroughly  English  buildings, 
surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds,  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay.  An 
excellent  museum,  devoted  to  the  products  of  British  Columbia,  is  worth 
a  visit.  Victoria  has  a  large  trade  during  the  season  of  navigation  with 
ports  on  the  Strait  of  Georgia  and  Fraser  River,  being  the  port  of  trans- 
shipment from  ocean  to  river  boats.  Population,  16,841.  It  has  water- 
works, gas,  and  electric  lights ;  also  a  large  number  of  extensive  mer- 
cantile houses  and  manufacturing  establishments,  with  several  educa- 
tional and  religious  institutions.  It  is  garrisoned  by  British  soldiers. 
The  Chinese  and  Indians  are  among  the  features  of  Victoria.  The  for- 
mer have  a  Joss-house,  theatre,  and  several  stores  devoted  to  their  prod- 
ucts ;  and  the  latter  occupy  a  reservation  opposite  the  city.  At  Esqia- 
mault,  3  miles  from  Victoria,  are  the  headquarters  of  the  English  Pacific 
squadron,  where  there  is  usually  a  fleet  of  from  three  to  five  ships. 

109.  Baltimore  to  Richmond  and  the  South. 

Via  Steamer  on  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Connecting  Railways. 

The  trip  down  the  Chesapeake  Bay  from  Baltimore  to  Portsmouth  or 
Richmond,  if  made  in  pleasant  weather,  is  delightful.  The  steamers  of 
the  Bay  Line  make  daily  trips,  except  on  Sundays,  from  Baltimore  (Can- 
ton Wharf,  on  arrival  of  New  York  train)  to  Norfolk  and  Portsmouth,  run- 
ning in  about  14  hours,  connecting  there  Avith  the  Seaboard  &  Roanoke 
R.  R.  for  the  South  Atlantic  States.  The  principal  points  of  intei^est  seen 
in  the  passage  of  the  Bay  are  the  mouth  of  the  Patapsco  River  and  the 
battle-ground  of  North  Point  near  Baltimore,  referred  to  in  the  descrip- 
tion of  that  city  (Route  6) ;  the  Bodkin,  3  miles  distant ;  and  the  harbor 
of  Annapolis,  15  miles  below,  with  a  distant  view  of  the  great  dome  of 
the  Capitol  at  Washington.  At  the  lower  end  of  the  Bay  are  the  famous 
fortifications  of  *  Fortress  Monroe  and  the  Rip  Raps,  protecting  the 
entrance  to  Hampton  Roads  and  James  River.  At  the  head  of  the  steam- 
boat landing  at  Old  Point  Comfort,  within  100  yards  of  the  Fortress, 
is  the  spacious  and  comfortable  Hygeia  Hotel,  accommodating  1,000 
guests,  and  open  all  the  year.  Fortress  Monroe,  the  largest  in  America, 
is  always  open  to  visitors,  and  presents  many  features  of  interest.  Hamp- 
ton, 2^  miles  above  Old  Point  Comfort,  is  the  seat  of  the  National  Sol- 
diers'' Home  and  the  Normal  and  Agricidtural  Institute  for  Colored 
People  and  Indians,  one  of  the  most  interesting  institutions  in  the  coun- 
try. Newport  News,  9  miles  above  Fortress  Monroe,  on  Hampton 
Roads,  is  reached  by  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.  from  Old  Point  Com- 
fort. This  spot  has  great  historic  interest  in  connection  with  the  Revo- 
lutionary War  and  the  late  civil  war.  Hotel  Warioick,  at  this  place,  is 
a  popular  summer  and  winter  resort.  Norfolk  {Atlantic  Hotel,  Purcell 
House,  St.  James  Hotel),  whose  harbor  is  defended  by  the  above  forts,  is 
situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Elizabeth  River,  8  miles  from  Hampton 
Roads  and  20  miles  from  the  ocean.  After  Richmond  it  is  the  most 
populous  city  of  Virginia,  with  34,8Y1  inhabitants,  and  has  an  extensive 
trade.     Large  quantities  of  oysters  and  early  fruits  and  vegetables  are 


500  BALTIMORE   TO    RICHMOND.  [Route  109. 

brought  thither  by  the  railways  and  canals  and  shipped  to  Northern 
ports.  It  is  the  third  cotton  port  in  the  country.  The  city  is  irregu- 
larly laid  out,  but  the  streets  are  generally  wide,  and  the  houses  well 
built  of  brick  and  stone.  The  Custom-House  and  Post-  Office^  in  Main 
St.,  is  a  handsome  edifice,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $228,505,  and  the  City 
Hall  has  a  granite  front  and  a  cupola  110  ft.  high.  The  Norfolk 
Academy^  the  Masonic  Temple^  the  Academy  of  Music,  and  the  Nor- 
folk College  for  Young  Ladies^  are  handsome  structures  ;  and  St. 
Maryh  (Roman  Catholic),  the  First  Presbyterian  Church,  the  Free- 
mason St.  Baptist  Church,  and  St.  PauVs  Ep/iscopal  Church  are  tine 
edifices.  The  grounds  of  the  latter  are  very  lovely,  and  have  some 
quaint  old  tombs.  There  are  two  cemeteries  tastefully  laid  out  and 
adorned  with  ornamental  trees.  Norfolk  was  founded  in  1682,  was  in- 
corporated in  1705,  burned  by  the  British  in  1776,  severely  visited  by 
the  yellow  fever  in  1855,  and  played  a  prominent  part  in  the  first  year  of 
the  civil  war,  when  it  was  captured  by  the  Virginians  and  became  the 
chief  naval  depot  of  the  Confederacy.  Off  Norfolk,  on  March  8,  1862, 
was  fought  the  memorable  engagement  between  the  Confederate  iron- 
clad Merrimac  and  the  Federal  iron-clad  Monitor,  which  marks  one  of  the 
most  notable  epochs  in  naval  warfare  and  changed  the  course  of  naval 
construction  throughout  the  world.  From  Norfolk,  Richmond  is  reached 
by  steamer  on  the  James  River  or  by  rail.  The  boats  of  the  Va. 
Steamboat  Co.  make  the  trip  in  10  hours,  passing  amid  much  pleasing 
scenery  and  by  many  localities  of  great  historical  interest.  The  Nor- 
folk &  Western,  Norfolk  &  Southern,  New  York,  Philadelphia  &  Nor- 
folk, and  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  Rs.,  the  Old  Dominion  S.  S.  Line,  the 
Boston  Merchants'  and  Miners'  Transportation  Co.,  and  the  Baltimore 
and  Washington  steamers  connect  Norfolk  with  every  part  of  the 
country.  Directly  opposite  Norfolk,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
ferry,  is  Portsmouth  {Ocean  House),  a  city  of  13,268  inhabitants,  regu- 
larly laid  out  on  level  ground,  and  well  built.  Its  harbor  is  one  of 
the  best  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  is  accessible  by  the  lax'gest  vessels. 
At  Gosport,  the  S.  extremity  of  the  city,  is  a  U.  S.  Navy-  Yard,  which 
contains  a  Dry  Dock  constructed  of  granite  at  a  cost  of  $974,536.  In 
its  various  departments  of  construction  and  repairs  it  employs  a  force 
of  over  1,300  men,  and  the  plant  is  valued  at  more  than  $7,000,000. 
Near  by  is  the  U.  S.  Naval  Hospital,  a  spacious  brick  edifice  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  with  accommodations  for  600  patients.  At  the  time  of 
the  secession  of  Virginia  (Api"il  18,  1861)  nearly  1,000  men  were  em- 
ployed at  the  Navy- Yard.  Two  days  afterward  it  was  destroyed  by 
fire,  with  property  valued  at  several  million  dollars,  including  11  vessels 
of  war.  At  Portsmouth,  the  Bay  steamers  connect  with  the  Seaboard  & 
Roanoke  R.  R.,  which  runs  in  79  miles  to  Weldon,  where  connection  is 
made  with  through  routes  to  the  South. 

Daily  steamers  run  from  Baltimore  (Pier  17,  Light  St.)  to  West 
Point,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  York  River,  whence  the  Richmond 
&  Danville  R.  R.  runs  in  38  miles  to  Richmond.  Yorktown,  a 
small  village  on  the  right  bank  of  York  River,  10  miles  above  its 
mouth,  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  that  decisive  event  in  the  Ameri- 


Route   HO.]  NORFOLK    TO    ATLANTA.  501 

can  Revolution,  the  surrender  of  the  British  army  under  Lord  Corn- 
wallis,  Oct.  19,  1*781.  The  precise  spot  where  the  surrender  took  place 
will  be  pointed  out  to  the  inquiring  visitor.  Remains  of  the  British 
intrenchments  may  still  be  seen,  and  the  country  around  bears  abun- 
dant evidences  of  the  operations  conducted  by  Gen.  McClellan  in  1862. 
The  railway  between  West  Point  and  Richmond  traverses  a  section  of 
country  remarkal^le  as  the  scene  of  many  important  events  during  the 
late  civil  war.  A  short  distance  from  the  point  where  the  railway  crosses 
the  Chickahominy  River  are  PowMte  Creek  and  Cold  Harbor^  famous  as 
the  localities  of  the  great  struggles  of  1862  and  1864.  Fair  Oaks  Sta- 
tion (Y  miles  from  Richmond)  was  the  scene  of  the  bloody  but  indecisive 
Battle  of  Seven  Pines,  fought  May  31,  1862,  between  Generals  McClel- 
lan and  Johnston.     Richmond  (see  Route  11 1). 

110.  Norfolk  and  Portsmouth  to  Atlanta. 

Via  the  Seaboard  Air  Line. 

From  Norfolk  passengers  take  the  ferry  from  the  foot  of  Market 
St.  to  the  station  in  Portsmouth,  the  point  of  departure  lor  the  Sea- 
board Air  Line.  Soon  after  leaving,  the  train  passes  through  the  fa- 
mous trucking  section  tributary  to  the  Western  Branch.  Here,  on  ac- 
count of  its  great  fertility,  truck  (another  name  for  early  vegetables)  is 
produced  two  weeks  earlier  than  on  farms  in  the  surrounding  country, 
and  the  producers  have  amassed  fortunes.  Suffolk,  Va.  (17  miles 
from  Portsmouth),  at  the  head  of  steam  navigation  on  the  Xansemond 
River,  is  a  lively  place  of  3,354  inhabitants,  situated  in  the  heait  of  a 
renovvned  farming  region.  Many  modern  and  handsome  buildings 
adorn  the  town.  Besides  extensive  manufacturing  establishments,  there 
are  several  oyster-packing  houses.  Passing  Franklin.,  a  thrifty  com- 
mercial center  at  the  head  of  steam  navigation  on  the  Blackwater 
River,  where  connection  is  made  by  steamer  for  the  hunting-grounds 
and  fisheries  of  the  Albemarle  Sound,  whose  praises  have  been  prc- 
claimed  far  and  wide,  the  town  of  Weldon.,  JSf.  C.  (80  miles  from  Ports- 
mouth ;  Atlantic  Coast  Line  Hotel)  is  reached.  A  steel  railroad  bridge 
spans  the  Roanoke  River,  upon  the  bank  of  which  Weldon  is  situated 
(population,  1,286).  Here  connection  is  made  with  the  Atlantic  Coa&t 
Line.  The  Roanoke  River  furnishes  excellent  water-power,  though 
but  partially  developed. 

The  course  of  the  Seaboard  Air  Line,  via  the  Raleigh  and  Gaston 
R.  R.,  is  through  a  country  which  has  few  scenic  attractions,  though  the 
highly  cultivated  farms  and  clustering  towns  indicate  a  populous  and 
thrifty  section.  Littleton.,  JSf.  C,  on  account  of  the  Panacea  Springs, 
whose  curative  properties  have  undergone  the  severest  tests,  and  are 
generally  pronounced  wonderful,  and  the  Littleton  Female  College,  is 
fast  becoming  a  popular  and  attractive  resort.  Henderson,  N.  C.  (Hen- 
derson House,  Martinsburg  Hotel,  and  Southern  Hotel),  53  miles  from 
Weldon,  at  an  altitude  of  505  ft.,  is  higher  than  any  other  point  in  this 
part  of  the  State.  On  account  of  its  great  salubrity  of  climate  and  good 
water,  it  is  noted  for  its  absolute  freedom  from  all  malarial  and  mias- 


502  NORFOLK    TO    ATLANTA.  [Route   110. 

mic  influences,  and  is  popular  as  a  summer  resort.  Population,  4,191. 
It  has  a  prominent  position  in  the  tobacco-trade  which  makes  it  a 
money  and  business  center.  From  Henderson,  after  a  ride  of  45  miles 
over  the  Durham  &  Northern  R.  R.,  the  town  of  Durham,  N.  C.  {Hotel 
Claiborne)  is  reached.  The  word  "  Durham "  and  its  identity  with 
the  tobacco  interest  is  well  known  to  almost  every  inhabitant  of  the 
United  States,  and  it  would  well  repay  the  tourist  to  stop  there  for 
a  few  days  to  visit  the  extensive  manufactories  of  this  staple.  To 
briefly  give  an  idea  of  its  enormity,  a  single  firm  in  Durham  made 
and  shipped  in  one  year  706,810,000  cigarettes ;  and  they  manu- 
factured 914,515  pounds  of  smoking-tobacco.  This  establishment 
is  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  Over  100  mammoth  brick 
structures  here  are  devoted  to  handling  the  leaf.  WaJce  Forest,  N.  C, 
the  site  of  the  school  of  that  name,  18  miles  from  Henderson,  sur- 
rounded by  mineral  springs,  is  a  well-established  resort  during  the  sum- 
mer months.  Raleigh,  N.  C,  the  "  City  of  Oaks,"  91  miles  from  Wel- 
don,  and  the  capital  of  North  Carolina,  is  described  on  page  508.  From 
Raleigh  to  Hamlet,  N.  C,  the  route  is  over  the  Raleigh  &  Augusta  Air 
Line  R.  R.,  through  the  heart  of  the  Long-Leaf  Pine  Belt,  whose  enor- 
mous wealth  in  lumber  and  naval  stores,  and  great  value  from  a  hygi- 
enic standpoint,  can  scarcely  be  estimated. 

Southern  Pines,  N.  C.,  10  miles  from  Raleigh,  is  the  highest 
point  in  the  long-leaf  pine  region,  and  is  pronounced  by  eminent  medi- 
cal authorities  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  natural  sanitariums.  During 
the  winter  months  the  hotels  are  fi'equently  unable  to  accommodate 
the  applicants,  for  lack  of  room.  The  climate  corresponds  in  dryness 
to  that  of  the  south  of  France,  due  to  the  fact  that  the  soil  is  almost 
entirely  sand,  extending  to  a  depth  of  many  yards,  thus  affording 
perfect  drainage,  and  avoiding  surface  dampness.  Hereabout  game 
abounds,  and  good  hunting  and  fishing  are  enjoyed  during  the  winter 
by  tourists,  who  come  South  to  avoid  the  rigors  of  the  North.  The 
profuse  generation  of  ozone  is  a  valuable  accessory  from  a  healthful 
standpoint. 

Reaching  Hamlet,  x¥.  C,  the  traveler  enters  one  of  the  richest  agri- 
cultural districts  in  the  country.  The  size  and  solidity  of  the  houses 
and  barns,  and  the  variety  and  extent  of  the  cultivation,  will  remind  the 
tourist  rather  of  the  best  farming  districts  of  New  England  and  the 
West  than  what  is  usually  seen  South.  This  is  termed  the  "  Great 
Pee  Dee  section." 

From  Hamlet  the  route  is  via  the  Carolina  Central  R.  R.  to  Monroe 
(distance,  53  miles),  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Georgia,  Caro- 
lina &  Northern  R.  R.  for  Atlanta,  Ga.  The  G.,  C.  &  N.  R.  R.  is 
a  newly  built,  well-ballasted,  and  well-maintained  road,  and  passes 
through  one  of  the  finest  cotton  belts  in  the  South.  The  traveler's 
eye  is  constantly  directed  to  well-cultivated  fields,  fine  droves  of  sheep 
and  cattle,  and  energetic  towns,  substantial  evidences  of  vigor  and 
groivth.  At  Calhoun  Ralls,  S.  C,  a  magnificent  steel  bridge  spans  the 
Savannah  River,  and  the  train  passes  into  Georgia.  Situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Oconee  River,  199  miles  south  of  Monroe,  is  Athens 


Route  111.]  WASHIXaTON    TO    RICHMOND.  503 

{Commercial  House),  the  classic  city  of  Georgia  (population,  8,639). 
Its  society  is  cultured  and  refined,  on  account  of  its  many  institutions 
of  learning,  among  which  is  the  State  University.  The  Oconee  River 
furnishes  water-power  for  its  manufacturing  enterprises,  and  this,  to- 
gether with  the  easy  accessibility  to  raw  material,  the  general  mild- 
ness of  the  climate  all  the  year  round,  low  rate  of  taxation,  and  cheap- 
ness of  labor,  makes  manufacturing  a  profitable  business.  The  finely 
built  residences  and  handsome  homes  impress  the  stranger  at  once. 
The  annual  business  amounts  to  upward  of  i^  10,000,000.  Athens  is 
lighted  by  electricity,  has  good  water,  a  paid  fire  department,  good 
hotels,  and  the  advantages  of  four  railroads,  besides  a  well-regulated  sys- 
tem of  electric  street-cars.  Sixty-nine  miles  from  Athens  is  c^tlanta, 
the  "  Gate  City  "  of  the  South  (see  p.  538). 

111.  Washington  to  Richmond. 

Via  Baltimore  &  Potomac  R.  R.  Distance,  116  miles. 
The  city  of  Washington  is  fully  described  in  Route  8.  The  Rich- 
mond train  leaves  the  depot  in  Washington  at  the  cor.  of  6th  and  B 
Sts.,  crosses  the  Long  Bridge  into  Virginia,  and  runs  down  parallel  with 
the  Potomac  7  miles  to  Alexandria,  which  is  described  in  Route  8. 
Beyond  Alexandria  it  still  follows  the  Potomac  for  21  miles  to  Qicantico, 
a  small  station  and  steamer-landing,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
steamers  from  Washington.  Here  the  train  takes  the  track  of  the  Rich- 
mond, Fredericksburg  &  Potomac  R.  R.,  which  runs  S.  E.  across  a  broken 
and  desolate-looking  region,  part  of  which  is  known  as  "The  Wilder- 
ness" and  is  famous  as  the  scene  of  the  great  combats  of  1863  and 
1864.  Twenty-one  miles  beyond  Quantico  is  Fredericksburg,  a  quaint 
and  venerable  old  city  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Rappahannock  River.  It 
was  founded  in  1727,  contains  4,528  inhabitants,  and  is  notable  as  the 
scene  of  one  of  the  severest  battles  of  the  civil  war,  fought  Dec.  13, 
1862,  in  which  Gen.  Burnside  was  defeated  by  Gen.  Lee.  Many  traces 
of  the  conflict  still  remain  and  may  be  seen  from  the  cars.  In  the  vicin- 
ity are  a  National  and  a  Confederate  cemetery,  the  latter  being  adorned 
with  a  monument.  Eleven  miles  W.  of  Fredericksburg,  on  the  E.  edge 
of  "  The  Wilderness,"  the  Rattle  of  Chancellorsville,  in  which  "  Stone- 
wall" Jackson  lost  his  life,  was  fought.  May  2-4,  1863.  Southward 
from  Chancellors ville  is  Spottsi/lvania  Court-House,  where,  in  May,  1864, 
were  fought  some  of  the  bloodiest  battles  of  Grant's  campaign  on  his 
way  to  Richmond.  Just  outside  the  limits  of  Fredericksburg  an  unfin- 
ished monument,  begun  in  1833,  marks  the  tomb  of  the  mother  of 
Washington,  who  died  here  in  1789.  It  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Fredericks- 
burg that  Washington  himself  was  born,  and  here  he  passed  his  early  years. 
Leaving  Fredericksburg,  the  train  crosses  the  Rappahannock  and  passes 
directly  over  the  ground  where  Gen.  George  G.  Meade's  charge  was 
made  in  the  battle  of  Fredericksburg.  Guineys  (12  miles  beyond  Fred- 
ericksburg) was  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Stonewall  Jackson.  He  was 
wounded  May  2,  1863,  and  died  at  the  house  of  William  Chandler,  May 
10th.     At  Hanover  Junction  (37  miles  from  Fredericksburg)  another 


504  RICHMOND.  [Route  111. 

battle  was  fought  between  Generals  Grant  and  Lee  in  May,  1864.  Ee- 
mains  of  the  works  occupied  by  the  two  armies  may  still  be  seen. 
Ashland  is  a  favorite  residence  of  many  citizens  of  Richmond,  from 
which  it  is  only  16  miles  distant.  It  is  the  seat  of  Randolph- Macon 
College,  and  near  here  Henry  Clay  was  born. 

Richmond* 

Hotels,  etc.— The  leading  hotels  are  Hotel  Dodson,  Exchange  and  Ballard 
House,  facing  and  connected  with  each  other  on  Franklin  St.  The  Davis 
House,  Ford's,  Murphy's,  and  the  Amei^can  are  good  houses.  Street-ears  (fare, 
5c.)  traverse  the  main  thoroughfares.  The  Electric  Street-car  line  is  the  longest 
now  running.  Garber's  omnibuses  and  hacks  are  in  waiting  at  the  depots  and 
steamboat  landings.  Fare  to  any  point  in  the  city,  50c.  Hacks  by  the  hour, 
$1.50  for  first  hour,  and  .|1  for  each  additional  hour.  Post-Office  in  Main  St., 
between  10th  and  11th.    The  Grand  Union  Station  is  at  8th  arid  Byrd  Sts. 

Richmond,  the  capital  and  largest  city  of  Virginia,  is  situated  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  James  River  (which  is  navigable),  about  12*7  miles  from 
the  ocean.  It  is  built  on  several  eminences,  the  principal  of  which  are 
Church  and  Shockoe  Hills,  which  are  separated  by  Shockoe  Creek,  and 
is .  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  and  well 
built ;  the  streets,  which  are  lighted  with  gas  and  electricity,  cross  each 
other  at  right  angles.  In  the  business  quarter  are  many  sulDstantial  and 
handsome  buildings,  and  nearly  all  the  residences  have  grass  and  flower 
plots  in  front. 

Richmond  was  founded  in  1737,  was  incorporated  in  1742,  and  became  the 
State  capital  in  1779,  at  which  period  it  was  a  small  vUlage.  The  city  was,  in 
turn,  the  scene  of  the  conventions  of  1788,  to  ratify  the  Federal  Constitution, 
those  of  1829,  1850,  and  1861,  and  other  important  political  gatherings,  which 
largely  shaped  the  destinies  of  the  Commonwealth.  In  1861  still  greater  promi- 
nence was  given  to  it  as  the  capital  of  the  Southern  Confederacy  ;  and  one  of 
the  great  aims  of  the  Federal  authorities,  throughout  the  war,  was  to  reduce  it 
into  their  possession.  The  obstinacy  with  which  the  Confederates  defended  it 
was  a  proof  of  the  great  importance  which  they  attached  to  its  retention.  To 
effect  this,  strong  lines  of  earthworks  were  drawn  around  the  place,  and  may 
still  be  seen  as  memorials  of  the  great  struggle.  When  General  Lee  evacuated 
Petersburg,  April  2,  1865,  the  troops  defending  Richmond  on  the  E.  were  with- 
drawn, and,  to  prevent  the  tobacco  warehouses  and  public  stores  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  Federal  forces,  the  buildings — together  with  the  bridges 
over  James  River— were  fired.  This  resulted  in  the  destruction  of  a  large  part 
of  the  business  section  of  the  city,  the  number  of  buildings  destroyed  ha-^ing 
,  been  estimated  at  1,000,  and  the  loss  at  $8,000,000.  With  the  cessation  of  hos- 
'  tilities,  Richmond  set  to  work  to  rebuild  her  blackened  quarters,  which  she  has 
now  wholly  accomplished,  and  the  citv  is  rapidly  surpassing  it?  former  pros- 
perity. The  population  in  1870  was  51,038  ;  in  1880,  63,803  ;  and  in  1890.  81,388. 
The  commerce  is  large,  the  chief  articles  of  export  being  tobacco  and  flour. 
The  manufactures  include  iron-works,  machine-shops,  foundries,  sugar-refineries, 
cigar-factories,  coach  and  wagon  factories,  furniture,  sheetings  and  shirtings, 
and  stoneware.  Seven  lines  of  railroad  intersect  at  Richmond,"and  regular  lines 
of  steamers  run  to  Norfolk,  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  and  New  York. 

The  most  prominent  public  building  of  Richmond,  and  by  far  the 
most  conspicuous  object  in  the  city,  or  from  its  approaches,  is  the 
*- State  Capitol,  together  with  the  City  Hall,  standing  in  the  center 
of  a  park  of  8  acres,  on  the  summit  of  Shockoe  Hill.  It  is  a  Graeco- 
Composite  building,  adorned  with  a  portico  of  Ionic  columns,  the  plan 
having  been  furnished  by  Thomas  Jefferson  after  that  of  the  Maison 


Route  111.]  RICHMOND.  505 

carree  at  Nismes,  in  France.  The  view  from  the  platform  on  the  roof 
is  extensive  and  beautiful.  In  the  center  of  the  building  is  a  square 
hall  surmounted  by  a  dome,  beneath  which  stands  *  Houdon's  celebrated 
statue  of  Washington.  It  is  of  marble,  of  the  size  of  life,  and  repre- 
sents Washington  as  clad  in  the  uniform  worn  by  an  American  general 
during  the  Revolution.  Near  by,  in  a  niche  in  the  wall,  is  a  marble 
bust  of  Lafayette.  The  State  Library,  in  the  Capitol  Building,  contains 
40,000  volumes  and  many  portraits  of  historical  personages,  and  is  said 
to  be  one  of  the  best  collections  in  the  country.  In  the  Supreme  Court- 
room is  the  law  library  of  several  thousand  volumes.  The  Historical 
Society  Collection  is  in  the  rooms  of  the  Westmoreland  Club  and  includes 
a  library  of  10,000  volumes.  On  the  esplanade  leading  from  the  Gov- 
ernor's house  to  the  W.  gate  of  the  Capitol  Square,  and  near  the  latter, 
is  Crawford's  equestrian  "^^  Statue  of  Washington,  consisting  of  a 
bronze  horse  and  rider,  of  colossal  size,  rising  from  a  massive  granite 
pedestal,  and  surrounded  by  bronze  figures  of  Patrick  Henry,  Thomas 
Jefferson,  John  Marshall,  George  Mason,  Thomas  Nelson,  and  Andrew 
Lewis.  The  horse  is  half  thrown  upon  its  haunches,  and  is  thought  to 
be  one  of  the  finest  bronzes  in  the  world.  A  life-size  marble  statue  of 
Henry  Clay  (near  the  W.  corner),  and  Foley's  statue  of  General  "  Stone- 
wall "  Jackson,  of  heroic  size,  on  a  granite  pedestal  (N.  of  the  Capitol), 
complete  the  decorations  of  the  Capitol  Square.  The  Governor's  Ho-itse 
is  a  plain  building  on  the  N.  E.  corner  of  Capitol  Square.  The  City 
Hall,  on  Capitol  St.,  is  a  new  and  handsome  structure.  The  *  Cus- 
tom-House, which  also  contains  the  Post-Office,  is  a  fine  structure  of 
granite,  in  the  Italian  style,  in  Main  St.,  between  10th  and  11th.  The 
Medical  College,  in  rear  of  the  Monumental  Church,  is  a  good  speci- 
men of  the  Egyptian  style  of  architecture.  Other  educational  institu- 
tions are  the  Richmond  College  and  Southern  JFernale  Institute.  In  the 
vicinity  is  the  Brockenhroiigh  House,  which  was  the  residence  of  Jeffer- 
son Davis,  President  of  the  Southern  Confederacy ;  it  is  now  used  as  a 
museum  for  relics  of  the  Southern  Confederacy.  The  Almshouse  is  one 
of  the  finest  edifices  in  the  city ;  the  State  Penitentiary  and  the  Soldiers'' 
Home,  about  2  miles  out  on  Grove  Road,  are  in  the  W.  suburbs.  Belle 
Isle  retains  some  interest  as  a  military  prison  during  the  civil  war. 
The  Mozart  Academy  of  Music,  in  8th  St.,  is  one  of  the  newest  edifices. 
The  churches  of  Richmond  are  numerous,  and  several  of  them  are 
handsome  specimens  of  architecture.  Those  with  historic  associations 
are  St.  John's  and  the  Monumental  *  St.  John's  (Episcopal)  is  a 
plain  edifice  with  a  modern  spire,  on  Church  Hill,  cor.  Broad  and  24th 
Sts.  It  is  of  ante-Revolutionary  origin,  and  in  it  was  held  (in  lY'Zo) 
the  Virginia  Convention  to  decide  the  action  of  the  colony,  on  which 
occasion  Patrick  Henry  made  his  celebrated  speech  containing  the 
words,  "  Give  me  liberty  or  give  me  death ! "  The  "  Monumental 
Church  (Episcopal),  cor.  Broad  and  13th  Sts.,  is  a  handsome  edifice, 
with  a  dome,  standing  on  the  spot  formerly  occupied  by  the  Richmond 
Theatre.  In  1811,  during  the  performance  of  a  piece  called  "The 
Bleeding  Nun,"  the  theatre  caught  fire,  and,  in  the  terror  and  confu- 
sion of  the  crowd  rushing  to  the  doors,  69  persons,  including  the  Gov- 


506  PvlCHMOXD    TO    CIIAELESTOA^.  [Route   112. 

ernor  of  Virginia  and  some  of  the  most  eminent  men  and  beautiful 
women  of  the  State,  were  crushed  or  burned  to  death.  The  church  was 
erected  as  a  memorial  of  the  event,  the  remains  of  the  victims  being 
interred  beneath  a  monument  in  the  vestibule.  Of  the  more  modem 
structures,  *St.  Paul's  (Episcopal),  cor.  Grace  and  9th  Sts.,  is  the 
most  imposing.  In  it  Jefferson  Davis  was  seated  when  a  messenger 
brought  him  the  fatal  news  that  Lee  was  about  to  evacuate  Petersburg. 
Of  the  several  cemeteries  of  Kichmond,  *  Hollywood  (reached  by 
electric  cars)  is  the  principal.  It  is  a  spot  of  great  natural  beauty,  in  the 
W.  limits  of  the  city,  above  James  River,  and  embraces  an  extensive 
tract,  the  whole  ornamented  with  venerable  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers. 
On  the  hill  at  the  S.  extremity,  monuments  mark  the  resting-place  of 
President  Monroe  and  of  President  Tyler.  The  remains  of  Jefferson 
Davis,  the  President  of  the  Confederate  States,  and  of  General  J.  E.  B. 
Stuart,  the  Confederate  cavalry  leader,  are  interred  here.  In  the  soldiers' 
section  are  the  graves  of  thousands  of  Confederate  dead,  from  the  midst 
of  which  rises  a  monumental  pyramid  of  rough  stone.  Monroe  Park  is 
near  the  W.  and  Marshall  Park  (Libby  Hill)  near  the  E.  end  of  the  city. 
From  the  latter  a  fine  river  view  may  be  had.  To  the  N.  W.  of  Monroe 
Park  is  the  statue  of  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee,  donated  to  the  State  by  the  Lee 
Monumental  Association.  Six  bridges  connect  Richmond  with  Spring 
Hill  and  Manchester^  the  latter  a  pretty  town  with  2  fine  cotton-mills. 
The  Tredegar  Iron-Works^  which  were  the  great  cannon  manufactory 
of  the  Confederacy,  are  worth  a  visit.  The  buildings  cover  15  acres  of 
ground.  The  Gallego  and  Haxall  Flou7'-Mills  are  among  the  largest  in 
the  world.  A  carriage  may  be  taken,  and  within  a  few  hours'  lide  from 
the  city  several  battle-fields  and  National  Cemeteries  visited. 

112.  Richmond  to  Charleston. 

a.    Via  Wilmington  and  Florence. 

The  Atlantic  Coast,  Piedmont  Air,  and  Seaboard  Air  Lines,  with  their  two 
fast  express-trains  daily  from  New  York,  with  vestibule  cars  attached,  con- 
stitute the  fast  mail  and  passenger  routes  to  Charleston  and  SaA^annah.  The 
route  from  New  York  to  Philadelphia  is  via  Route  3  a  ;  from  Philadelphia  to 
Baltimore  via  Route  5  ;  from  Baltimore  to  Washingon  via  Route  7  ;  from  Wash- 
ington to  Richmond  via  Route  111  ;  from  Richmond  to  Charleston  as  described 
below  ;  and  from  Richmond  to  Savannah  via  Route  113  a.  The  schedule  time 
from  New  York  to  Charleston  is  33  hours  ;  to  Savannah,  39  hours. 

Leaving  Richmond,  the  train  crosses  the  James  River  on  a  handsome 
bridge  and  runs  in  23  miles  to  Petersburg  {St.  James  Hotel),  a  well-built 
city  of  22,680  inhabitants,  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Ap- 
pomattox River,  12  miles  above  its  entrance  into  the  James.  Its  trade  is 
large,  the  handling  of  tobacco  and  cotton,  with  wheat,  corn,  and  general 
country  produce,  being  the  chief  business.  The  principal  buildings  are 
the  Custom-House  and  Post-Office,  the  Court-House,  2  market-houses, 
and  the  Theatre.  There  is  a  public  park  called  Poplar  Lawn.  Peters- 
burg was  the  scene  of  the  last  great  struggles  during  the  civil  war. 
Since  the  war  the  place  has  prospered,  and  the  marks  of  the  conflict 
are  rapidly  disappearing ;  but  the  fortifications  are  still  distinctly  trace- 


i  mmsmii 


Route  112.]         RICHMOND    TO    CHARLESTON.  50Y 

able,  and  the  chief  battle-fields,  etc.,  are  easily  found.  Weldon  (86 
miles)  is  a  thriving  post-village  in  North  Carolina,  at  the  head  of  steam- 
boat navigation  on  Roanoke  River.  Here  the  Seaboard  &  Roanoke 
R.  R.  (see  Route  106)  from  Portsmouth  and  Norfolk  connects.  Be- 
yond Weldon  the  country  is  flat  and  uninteresting,  the  road  traversing 
for  many  miles  the  great  pine  belt  which  extends  from  Virginia  to 
Florida.  Goldsboro  (164  miles)  is  a  prosperous  town  of  4,017  in- 
habitants, near  the  Xeuse  River,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and  at  the 
intersection  of  the  Atlantic  &  North  Carolina  R.  R.  Eighty-four  miles 
beyond,  passing  many  small  stations  en  route^  the  train  reaches  Wil- 
mington {Island  Beach  Hotel  ^  Orton^  Pur  cell  House)^  the  largest  city  of 
North  Carolina,  situated  in  the  S.  E.  corner  of  the  State,  upon  the  Cape 
Fear  River,  20  miles  from  the  sea.  Wilmington  has  a  population  of 
20,056,  an  extensive  commerce,  both  coastwise  and  foreign,  and  has  long- 
been  the  leading  market  for  naval  stores  in  the  world.  There  are  regular 
lines  of  steamers  to  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  and  New  York.  The  prin- 
cipal articles  of  shipment  are  lumber,  turpentine,  rosin,  tar,  pitch, 
shingles,  and  cotton.  Street-cars  run  through  the  principal  streets  to 
Oakdcde  Cemetery  and  to  the  R.  R.  stations.  The  Sound,  a  place  of  sum- 
mer resort  with  railroad  connection,  is  V  miles  distant ;  and  Fort  Fisher, 
which  played  so  conspicuous  a  part  in  the  civil  war,  is  20  miles  below, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  From  Wilmington  to  Florence  (108  miles) 
the  country  is  of  the  same  featureless  and  monotonous  character,  the 
route  now  being  through  South  Carolina.  Florence  (356  miles)  is  a 
place  of  considerable  commercial  importance  by  reason  of  its  railroad 
facilities,  and  is  the  point  of  shipment  for  most  of  the  cotton  of  the 
adjacent  country.  Here  the  Charleston  train  takes  the  track  of  the 
Northeastei"n  R.  R.,  which  runs  to  Charleston  in  102  miles,  through  an 
uninteresting  region.     Charleston  (458  miles)  is  described  further  on. 

h.  Via  Charlotte  and  Colurnhia. 
From  Richmond  to  Columbia  this  route  is  by  the  Richmond  &  Dan- 
ville Line.  Crossing  the  James  River  on  a  substantial  covered  bridge, 
the  train  passes  through  the  populous  suburb  of  Manchester,  and  runs 
S.  W.  through  a  famous  tobacco-growing  region  to  Burkeville  (53  miles), 
situated  at  the  intersection  of  the  Norfolk  &  Western  R.  R.,  formerly  the 
So2it7i-Side  Baihcai/,  which  was  so  prominent  in  the  siege  of  Petersburg. 

In  April,  1865,  Burkeville  became  a  place  of  critical  importance.  General 
Lee,  having  evacuated  Petersburg  on  the  night  of  April  2d,  retreated  up  the  N. 
bank  of  the  Appomattox,  and,  recrossing,  reached  Amelia  Court-House,  from 
which  it  was  his  design  to  advance  to  Burkeville  Junction.  General  Grant 
moved  more  rapidly  toward  the  same  point  from  Petersburg,  and,  having  a 
shorter  distance  to  pass  over,  reached  the  place  before  Lee,  who  was  forced 
to  halt  at  Amelia  Court-House  to  obtain  rations.  The  presence  of  Grant  at 
Burkeville  induced  Lee  to  alter  his  line  of  march  and  retire  toward  Lynch- 
burg, which  resulted,  April  9,  1805,  in  the  surrender  of  the  Confederate  forces  at 
Appomattox  Court-House.  The  scene  of  the  surrender  ^^•as  near  Api)077ia1tox,  a 
station  on  the  Norfolk  &  Western  R.  R.,  48  miles  W.  of  Burkeville  and  23 miles 
E.  of  Lynchbm-g. 

Thirty-two  miles  beyond  Burkeville  is  Roanoke,  the  name  of  which 
will  recall  the  famous  orator  "  John  Randolph  of  Roanoke,"  who  passed 


508  RICIIMOIsTD    TO    CHARLESTON.  [Route   112. 

almost  his  entire  life  in  this  region.  Danville  (140  miles)  is  a  town  of 
10,305  inhabitants,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Dan  River.  It  is  the  market-town  of  the  best  tobacco-growing  section 
of  Virginia,  and  has  an  active  trade.  Connection  is  made  here  with 
the  Virginia  Midland  Div.,  Avhich  forms  with  the  present  Hne  a  popular 
through  route  (known  as  the  Richmond  and  Danville)  from  Washing- 
ton via  Lynchburg  to  the  South- Atlantic  States  (see  Route  122).  Five 
miles  beyond  Danville  the  train  enters  ^"orth  Carolina,  and  soon  reaches 
Greensboro  (McAdoo  House),  a  rapidly  growing  town,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  rich  tobacco-producing  region,  and  near  valuable  deposits  of 
coal,  iron,  and  copper. 

From  Greensboro  a  branch  line  runs  S.  E.  in  130  miles  to  Goldsboro 
(see  Route  112  «),  passing  Raleigh  ( Central,  Yarhorough  House),  the 
capital  of  Xorth  Carolina.  Raleigh,  with  a  population  in  1890  of  12,678, 
is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  elevation  6  miles  W.  of  the  Xeuse  River  and 
a  little  N.  E.  of  the  center  of  the  State.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  Avith 
a  park  of  6  acres  in  the  center  ( Union  Square),  from  which  extend  4 
streets,  dividing  the  city  into  4  parts,  in  each  of  which  is  a  square  of  4 
acres.  In  Union  Sc^uare  is  the  beautiful  ^ State  House,  built  of  granite, 
after  the  model  of  the  Parthenon,  at  a  cost  of  $531,000.  Other  public 
buildings  are  the  U.  S.  Custom-House  and  Post- Office,  a  fine  granite 
structure,  the  Supreme  Court  and  State  Building,  State  Geological  Mu- 
seum, the  State  Insane  Asylum,  the  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
and  the  Penitentiary.  Raleigh  is  also  reached  from  Weldon  (see  present 
route).  The  chief  educational  establishments  are  St.  Mary's  Female 
College,  the  Peace  Institute,  the  Leonard  Mediccd  School,  the  Shaio 
University  (colored),  the  State  Agrictdtural  and  Mechanical  College, 
Trinity  College  (males),  and  Baptist  State  Unive^^sity  for  women.  There 
are  also  many  cotton,  tobacco,  shoe,  clothing,  car,  locomotive,  and  ice 
factories. 

The  next  important  station  S.  of  Greensboro  on  the  main  line  is 
Salisbury  (238  miles),  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Western  Xorth 
Carolina  Div.,  by  which  the  tourist  may  reach  the  Mountain  Region 
(see  Route  131).  Forty-four  miles  beyond  is  Charlotte,  a  busy  little 
city  of  11,557  inhabitants,  on  Sugar  Creek,  at  the  junction  of  several 
important  railways.  It  is  situated  on  the  gold  range  of  the  Atlantic 
States,  and  its  prosperity  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  working  of  the  mines 
in  its  vicinity.  A  U.  S.  Assay  Office  (formei-ly  a  branch  inint)  is  located 
here.  A  plank  road  120  miles  long  connects  Charlotte  with  Fayette- 
ville.  From  Charlotte  the  route  is  via  the  Charlotte,  Columbia  &  Au- 
gusta R.  R.,  which  runs  S.  through  a  farming  region,  and  in  110  miles 
(392  miles  from  Richmond)  reaches  Coiumfcia  [Grand  Central,  Hotel 
Jerome,  and  Wrighfs  Hotel),  the  capital  of  South  Carolina.  Columbia 
is  a  beautiful  city,  situated  on  the  bluffs  of,  and  15  ft.  above,  the  Con- 
garee,  on  an  elevated  level  plateau  a  few  miles  below  the  charming 
falls  of  that  river.  It  was  famous  for  its  deUghtfuliy  shaded  streets 
and  its  wonderful  flower-gardens,  but  the  aspect  of  the  city  was  greatly 
changed  by  the  unfortunate  conflagration  which  destroyed  so  large  a 
part  of  it  during  its  occupation  by  General  Sherman's  forces,  in  Feb., 


Route  112.]  CIIAELESTOK.  509 

1865.  The  streets,  however,  are  still  abundantly  shaded,  and  there  are 
many  attractive  drives  in  the  vicinity.  The  view  from  Arsenal  Hill  is 
the  most  beautiful  in  this  portion  of  South  Carolina.  The  State  House^ 
when  completed,  will  be  one  of  the  handsomest  public  buildings  in  the 
United  States ;  it  has  cost  $3,000,000,  and  about  $1,000,000  more  will 
be  required  to  finish  it.  It  is  surrounded  by  grounds  in  which  are  a 
statue  of  George  Washington,  a  monument  to  the  Confederate  dead, 
and  the  Palmetto  Monument  to  those  South  Carolinians  who  fell  in 
the  Mexican  War.  The  Executive  Mansion  has  grounds  laid  out  in 
walks,  gardens,  and  drives,  and  commands  a  picturesque  view  of  the 
Congaree  Valley.  The  State  Penitentiary  is  a  vast  structure  situated  in 
a  plot  of  20  acres  at  the  junction  of  the  Broad  and  Saluda  Rivers, 
within  the  city  limits.  The  Lunatic  Asylum  occupies  a  group  of  spacious 
buildings  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  city.  The  grounds,  20  acres  in  ex- 
tent, are  surrounded  by  an  inclosure  and  beautified  with  gardens,  hot- 
houses, and  walks,  and  has  a  farm  of  200  acres  around  it.  Other  note- 
worthy public  buildings  are  the  U.  S.  Court-House  and  Post-Ofiice,  the 
City  Hall,  and  the  Market-House.  There  are  several  important  educa- 
tional institutions,  of  which  the  jjrincipal  are  the  University  of  South 
Carolina^  founded  in  1801,  which  has  substantial  brick  buildings  in 
grounds  40  acres  in  extent,  with  a  library  of  35,000  volumes ;  the 
Presbyterian  Theological  Seminary^  with  a  library  of  18,340  volumes. 
The  car-shops  of  the  Columbia  Div.  of  the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R. 
occupy  4  acres  of  ground,  and  there  are  other  large  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments. The*  Fair  Grounds  ot  the  South  Carolina  Agricultural 
and  Mechanical  Society,  in  the  N.  W.  suburbs,  contain  about  30  acres, 
with  spacious  buildings,  and  are  well  supplied  with  fountains,  fish-ponds, 
a  race-course,  etc.  Sydney  Park  contains  about  25  acres,  tastefully  laid 
out  and  adorned  with  trees  and  shrubbery. 

From  Columbia  to  Charleston  (via  Atlantic  Coast  Line)  the  jour- 
ney will  give  the  traveler  some  inkling  of  the  lowland  features  of 
Southern  landscape,  though  not  in  its  most  interesting  character, 
since  the  country  is  level,  and  most  of  the  way  is  through  extensive 
pine-forests.  The  only  station  on  the  line  requiring  mention  is  Sum- 
merville  (22  miles  from  Charleston),  a  small  village  situated  on  a 
pine-clad  ridge  which  extends  across  from  the  Cooper  to  the  Ashley 
River.  Its  climate  is  remarkably  agreeable,  and  the  place  is  attract- 
ing attention  as  a  winter  resort. 

Charleston. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  best  hotels  are  the  Charleston  Hotel,  in  Meeting  St.  be- 
tween Hayne  and  Pinckney  Sts.,  and  the  St.  Charles,  cor.  Meeting  and  Hasel 
Sts.  Street-cars  (fare,  .5c.)  traverse  the  city  and  afford  easy  access  to  the  chief 
points  of  interest.  Omnibuses  are  in  waiting  at  the  stations  and  landings  on 
the  arrival  of  trains  and  steamers,  and  convey  passengers  to  any  portion  of  the 
city  (fare,  50c.).  Besides  the  rail-routes  described  above.  Charleston  is  reached 
from  New  York  by  steamers  (Clyde  Steamship  Line),  leaving  Pier  29,  East 
Elver,  at  3  p.  bi.  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays.  The  New  York 
steamers  continue  to  Jacksonville. 

Charleston,  the  chief  commercial  city  of  South  Carolina,  is  pictur- 
esquely situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ashley  and  Cooper  Rivers,  in 


510  CHAKLESTON.  [Route  112. 

lat.  32°  45'  ]S^,,  and  Ion,  Y9°  5*7'  W.  The  rivers  run  a  parallel  course 
for  nearly  6  miles,  widening  as  they  approach  the  sea,  and  thus  gradu- 
ally narrowing  the  site  of  the  city  to  a  peninsula.  The  corporate  limits 
of  the  city  extend  from  Battery  or  White  Point,  on  the  extreme  S. 
verge  of  the  city,  to  an  arbitrary  line  on  the  N.  about  3  miles  above. 
Within  this  area  the  city  is  laid  out  with  tolerable  regularity,  the  streets 
generally  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  being  laid  with  Bel- 
gian pavement.  On  August  31,  1886,  and  for  some  time  afterward, 
Charleston  experienced  a  succession  of  earthquakes,  which  injured 
many  of  the  older  buildings,  which  are  now  replaced  by  less  pictur- 
esque edifices.  The  two  principal  streets  are  King  and  Meeting,  which 
run  N.  and  S.,  nearly  parallel,  the  whole  length  of  the  city,  but  converge 
to  intersection  near  the  northern  limits.  King  St.  contains  the  leading 
retail  stores,  and  is  the  fashionable  promenade.  The  jobbing  and  whole- 
sale stores  are  chiefly  in  Meeting  St.  and  Bay  St.;  and  the  banks,  and 
brokers'  and  insurance  offices,  are  in  Broad  St.  The  *  Battery  is  a 
popular  promenade,  on  the  water's  edge,  and  commanding  a  view  of 
the  Bay ;  it  is  lined  with  fine  private  residences.  Fine  residences  are 
also  found  in  Meeting  St.  below  Broad,  in  Kutledge  St.  and  Ave.,  and  at 
the  W.  end  of  Wentworth  St.  The  roads  leading  out  of  the  city  along 
the  Ashley  and  Cooper  Rivers  are  singularly  beautiful,  and  afford  inter- 
esting drives.  They  are  all  embowered  in  loveliest  foliage ;  pines,  oaks, 
magnolias,  myrtles,  and  jasmines  vying  with  each  other  in  tropical  lux- 
uriance and  splendor.  There  is  a  beach  drive  on  Sullivan's  Island 
(reached  by  ferry).  A  bridge  has  been  built  across  the  Ashley  River, 
which  will  give  access  to  some  charming  drives  on  the  mainland  among 
the  old  plantations. 

Charleston  was  settled  in  1679  by  an  English  colony  under  William  Sayle, 
who  became  the  first  Governor.  It  played  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  Revolution, 
having  been  the  first  among  the  chief  places  of  the  South  to  assert,  a  common 
cause  with  and  for  the  colonies.  It  was  thrice  assaulted  by  the  British,  andonlv 
yielded  to  a  six  weeks'  siege  by  an  overwhelming  force.  May  12,  1780.  It  was 
"the  leading  city  both  in  the  nullification  movement  during  Jackson's  adminis- 
tration and  in  the  incipient  stages  of  Southeni  secession.  Open  hostilities  in 
the  civil  war  began  at  Charleston,  with  the  bombardment  of  Fort  Sumter  on 
April  12,  1861 ;  and  for  the  next  four  years  it  was  one  of  the  chief  points  of 
Federal  attack,  without  being  lost  by  the  Confederates,  however,  until  Sher- 
man's capture  of  Columbia  on  February  17,  18S5.  Durins"  the  war  many  build- 
ings were  destroyed,  and  the  towers  and  steeples  of  churches  riddled  with  shot 
and  shell.  Since  its  close,  rapid  progress  has  been  made  in  the  work  of  rebuild- 
ing, and  Charleston  is  now  more  prosperous  than  ever.  The  growth  of  popula- 
tion has  been  as  follows  :  In  1800  it  was  18,711 ;  in  1850,  42.985  ;  in  1860,  40,519  : 
in  1870,  48,956  :  in  1880,  49,999  ;  and  in  1890,  54,955.  The  commerce  of  the  city 
is  large,  the  chief  exports  being  cotton  (for  which  it  is  one  of  the  chief  ship- 
ping ports),  rice,  naval  stores,  and  fertilizers.  The  manufacture  of  fertil- 
izers from  the  valuable  beds  of  marl  and  phosphate,  discovered  in  1868,  is 
now  one  of  the  principal  industries.  Ten  companies  are  now  engaged  in  the 
business.  There  are  also  flour  and  rice  mills,  bakeries,  carriage  and  wagon 
factories,  and  machine-shops.  Lumber  is  taking  a  place  among  the  leading 
articles  of  export. 

Of  the  public  buildings  of  Charleston,  several  of  the  most  important 
are  clustered  at  the  intersection  of  Broad  and  Meeting  Sts.  On  the  N.  E. 
corner  is  the  *City  Hall,  an  imposing  building,  entered  by  a  double 
flight  of  marble  steps.     It  is  situated  in  Washington  Park,  which  con- 


Route  112.1  CHARLESTON.  511 

tains  a  handsome  fountain,  and  a  marble  statue  of  William  Pitt  erected 
before  the  Revolution.  One  of  the  arms  was  shot  off  by  the  British  dur- 
ing the  siege  in  fZSO.  The  Council-Chamber  is  handsomely  furnished, 
and  contains  some  interesting  porti-aits.  On  the  N.  W.  corner  is  the 
Court-Hoxise^  a  substantial  structure  of  brick,  faced  so  as  to  resemble 
stone.  On  the  S.  W.  corner,  where  the  Guardhouse^  or  Police  Head- 
quarters, which  was  injured  by  the  earthquake,  stood,  a  handsome  new 
Post-Office  is  building,  to  replace  the  one  used  for  more  than  a  cen- 
tury;  and  on  the  S.  E.  corner  stands  the  venerable  *St.  Michael's 
Church  (Episcopal),  built  in  1752,  it  is  said,  from  designs  by  a  pupil  of 
Sir  Christopher  Wren.  The  tower  is  considered  very  fine,  and  the  sit- 
uation of  the  church  makes  the  spire  a  conspicuous  object  far  out  at 
sea.  Its  chimes  are  celebrated  for  their  age  and  sweetness.  The  *  view 
from  the  belfry  is  very  fine,  embracing  the  far  stretch  of  sea  and  shore, 
the  fortresses  and  the  shipping.  The  body  of  the  church  was  severely 
injured  by  the  earthquake  of  1886.  At  the  foot  of  Broad  St.  stands 
the  Post-  Office^  a  venerable  structure,  dating  from  the  colonial  period, 
the  original  mateinal  having  been  brought  from  England  in  1761.  It 
was  much  battered  during  the  war,  but  has  since  been  renovated.  It 
will  soon  be  abandoned,  as  a  new  building  is  in  course  of  construc- 
tion. The  *U.  S.  Custom-House,  which  has  been  completed 
within  a  few  years,  at  a  cost  of  .$3,000,000,  is  just  S.  of  the  Market- 
wharf,  on  Cooper  River.  It  is  of  white  marble,  in  the  Roman-Corinthian 
style,  and  is  now  the  finest  edifice  in  the  city.  A  noble  view  is  ob- 
tained from  its  graceful  Corinthian  portico.  The  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce occupies  the  2d  and  3d  floors  of  a  handsome  building  at  the 
cor.  of  Broad  and  E.  Bay  Sts. ;  it  has  a  good  reading-room,  conven- 
iently arranged  for  the  use  of  the  members.  The  Academy  of  Ifnsic, 
cor.  King  and  Market  Sts.,  is  one  of  the  finest  theatres  in  the  South.  It 
is  60  by  231  ft.,  and  cost  $160,000.  Besides  the  theatre,  with  accom- 
modations for  1,200,  it  contains  two  large  halls  for  concerts,  lectures, 
etc.  The  Grand  Opera-House,  a  handsome  building  in  Meeting  St., 
has  recently  been  opened  to  the  amusement-loving  public.  The 
Charleston  Club,  the  leading  club  of  the  city,  is  handsomely  located 
in  Meeting  St.,  near  the  Battery ;  and  the  German  Artillery  Co.  has  a 
fine  armory  and  club-house  in  Wentworth  St.,  near  King.  The  Masonic 
Temple  is  a  large  but  fantastic  building,  cor.  King  and  Wentworth  Sts. 
The  old  *  Orphan-House,  standing  in  the  midst  of  spacious  grounds, 
between  Calhoun  and  Vanderhorst  Sts.,  is  a  most  imposing  edifice,  and  a 
famous  institution.  John  C.  Fremont,  once  a  candidate  for  the  presi- 
dency, and  C.  G.  Memminger,  Confederate  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  were 
educated  there.  The  South  Carolina  Military  Academy  occupies  the 
building  known  as  the  Citadel,  on  Marion  Square.  The  College  of 
Charleston,  founded  in  1788,  has  spacious  buildings,  located  in  the 
square  bounded  by  George,  Green,  College,  and  St.  Philip  Sts.  It  has 
a  library  of  about  6,000  volumes,  and  a  valuable  museum  of  natural 
history.  The  Mediccd  College,  cor.  Queen  and  Franklin  Sts.,  and  Roper 
Hospital,  cor.  Queen  and  Logan  Sts.,  are  large  and  handsome  build- 
ings, the  latter  especially  so.     On  the  same  square  with  these  two  is 


512  CHARLESTON.  [Route  112. 

the  County  Jo.il.  The  Charleston  Library^  founded  in  1748,  has  a 
plain  but  commodious  building  at  the  cor.  of  Broad  and  Church  Sts. 
It  lost  heavily  in  the  fire  of  1861,  but  now  contains  about  17,000 
volumes.  The  South  Carolina  Society  Hall,  in  Meeting  St.  near  St. 
Michael's  Church,  is  a  substantial  structure,  with  colonnade  and  por- 
tico, and  a  fine  interior.  The  City  Hospital  has  been  removed  to  the 
W.  end  of  Calhoun  St.,  where  a  handsome  building  was  erected  as  a 
memorial  to  the  charity  so  generously  extended  to  Charleston  after 
the  earthquake.  *  Market  Hall,  in  Meeting  St.  one  block  S.  of 
Charleston  Hotel,  is  a  fine  building,  in  temple  form,  standing  on  a  high, 
open  basement,  having  a  lofty  portico  in  front,  reached  by  a  double 
flight  of  stone  steps.  In  rear  of  this  building  are  the  markets,  consist- 
ing of  a  row  of  low  sheds  supported  by  brick  arches,  and  extending  to 
E.  Bay  St.  Between  6  and  9  a.  m.  these  markets  present  one  of  the 
most  characteristic  sights  that  the  stranger  can  see  in  Charleston.  The 
refuse  is  cleaned  up  by  several  American  buzzards,  and  is  one  of  the 
sights  of  the  markets.  A  fine  line  of  wharves  has  been  recently  built 
by  the  South  Carolina  K.  R.,  extending  ^  mile  on  the  Cooper  River  from 
the  foot  of  Columbus  St.,  and  freight  tracks  extended  to  the  water's 
edge. 

After  St.  Michael's  (already  described)  the  most  interesting  church 
edifice  in  Charleston  is  *  St,  Pliilip's  (Episcopal),  in  Church  St.  near 
Queen.  It  was  the  first  church  establishment  in  Charleston ;  but  the 
present  structure,  although  of  venerable  age,  is  yet  not  quite  so  old  as 
St.  Michael's.  The  view  from  the  steeple  is  fine ;  but  there  is  a  keener 
interest  in  the  graveyard  than  even  in  the  old  church  itself,  for  here  lie 
South  CaroUna's  most  illustrious  dead.  In  the  portion  of  the  graveyard 
that  lies  across  the  street  is  the  tomb  of  John  C.  Calhoun.  It  consists 
of  a  granite  sarcophagus,  supported  by  walls  of  brick,  and  for  inscription 
has  simply  the  name  of  "  Calhoun."  St.  Miibar^s  Cathedral  (Roman 
Catholic),  which  was  destroyed  in  the  great  fire  of  1861,  at  the  cor.  of 
Broad  and  Friend  Sts.,  is  now  partially  rebuilt.  It  was  one  of  the  cost- 
liest edifices  in  Charleston.  The  Citadel  Square  Baptist  Chvrcli.,  cor. 
Meeting  and  Henrietta  Sts.,  is  a  fine  building,  in  the  Norman  style.  The 
Westmimter  Presbyterian.,  in  Meeting  St.  near  Society,  has  an  elegant 
Corinthian  portico  Avith  8  columns.  The  Unitarian  Church.,  in  Archdale 
St.  near  Queen,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  perpendicular  Gothic  style,  and 
has  a  very  rich  interior.  The  German  Lutheran  Church,  in  King  St. 
opposite  the  Citadel,  is  a  handsome  building,  in  the  Gothic  style,  with 
lofty  and  ornate  spire.  Grace  Church  (Episcopal),  in  Went  worth  St.,  is 
one  of  the  most  fashionable  in  the  city.  The  old  Huguenot  Church, 
cor.  Church  and  Queen  Sts.,  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  St.  Patricks  Church, 
cor.  St.  Philip  and  Radcliffe  Sts.,  is  a  handsome  building  in  Gothic 
style,  with  spire  and  belfry.  Bethel  and  Trinity  Methodist  Churches 
have  recently  secured  the  most  powerful  organs  ever  built  in  this  city. 

Washington  Park,  at  the  junction  of  Meeting  and  Broad  Sts.,  is  orna- 
mented with  the  Pitt  statue.  A  promenade,  at  the  W.  end  of  Broad  St.,  on 
the  banks  of  an  inlet  of  the  Ashley,  converted  into  an  artificial  lake ;  Ma- 
rion Square,  a  parade-ground  at  Calhoun  and  Meeting  Sts.,  with  a  bronze 


Route  112.]  CHARLESTON.  513 

statue  of  John  C.  Calhoun ;  and  Hampstead  Mall,  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  the 
city,  are  all  favorite  resorts.  White  Point  Gm-den,  or  Batter}^  Park, 
has  beautifully  shaded  promenades,  and  contains  a  fine  bronze  monu- 
ment erected  in  honor  of  Sergeant  Jaspei*,  of  Revolutionary  fame  ;  also  a 
bronze  bust  of  William  Gilmore  Simms,  the  novelist,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward. 
Just  outside  of  the  city,  on  the  N.  boundary,  is  *  Magnolia  Ceme- 
tery (reached  by  street-cars).  It  is  embowered  in  magnolias  and  live- 
oaks,  is  tastefully  laid  out,  and  contains  some  fine  monuments,  of  which 
the  most  noteworthy  are  those  to  Colonel  William  Washington,  of  Revo- 
lutionary fame,  Hugh  S.  Legare,  and  W.  Gilmore  Simms,  the  novelist. 
Perhaps  the  most  interesting  spot  in  the  neighborhood  of  Charleston  is 
the  old  *  Church  of  St.  James,  on  Goose  Creek  (reached  by  carriage, 
or  by  Northeastern  R.  R.  to  Porcher's  Station,  15  miles).  It  is  situated 
in  the  very  heai't  of  a  forest,  is  approached  by  a  road  little  better  than  a 
bridle-path,  and  is  entirely  isolated  from  habitations  of  any  sort.  The 
church  was  built  in  IVll,  and  was  saved  from  destruction  during  the 
Revolutionary  War  by  the  royal  arms  of  England  that  are  emblazoned 
over  the  pulpit.  The  floor  is  of  stone,  the  pews  are  square  and  high, 
the  altar,  reading-desk,  and  pulpit  are  so  small  as  to  seem  like  minia- 
tures of  ordinary  church-fixtures,  and  on  the  walls  and  altar  are  tablets 
in  memory  of  the  early  members  of  the  congregation.  One  dates  from 
1711  and  two  from  171*7. — A  short  distance  from  the  church,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  main  road,  is  a  farm  known  as  The  Oaks,  from  the 
magnificent  avenue  of  those  trees  by  which  it  is  approached.  The  trees 
are  believed  to  be  nearly  200  years  old ;  they  have  attained  great  size, 
and  for  nearly  ^  mile  form  a  continuous  arch  over  the  broad  road. 

The  harbor  of  Charleston  is  a  large  estuai-y,  extending  about  1  miles 
to  the  Atlantic,  with  an  average  width  of  2  miles.  It  is  landlocked  on 
all  sides  except  an  entrance  about  a  mile  in  width.  The  passage  to  the 
inner  harbor  is  defended  by  four  fortresses.  Looking  outward  on  the 
left,  at  the  entrance,  is  Fort  Moultrie,  on  Sullivan's  Island,  occupying 
the  site  of  the  fort  which,  on  June  28,  1776,  beat  off  the  British  fleet 
of  Sir  Peter  Parker.  On  the  right,  raised  upon  a  shoal  in  the  harbor 
and  directly  covering  the  channel,  is  *Fort  Sum.ter,  rendered  famous 
by  the  part  which  it  played  in  the  opening  scene  of  the  civil  war,  and 
now  entirely  rebuilt.  Immediately  in  front  of  the  city,  and  but  1  mile 
from  it,  is  Castle  Pinckney,  covering  the  crest  of  a  mud-shoal,  and  facing 
the  entrance ;  while  to  the  extreme  right  is  Fort  Johnson,  now  used 
as  a  quarantine  station.  A  fine  view  of  the  city  is  obtained  in  entering 
the  harbor  from  the  sea ;  and  as  it  is  built  on  low^  and  level  land,  it 
seems  to  rise  from  the  water  as  we  approach,  whence  it  has  been  called 
the  "American  Venice."  Sullivan's  Island  is  a  summer  resort  of  South 
Carolina,  and  contains  many  cottages  and  a  beach  drive.  A  fine  hotel, 
the  New  Brighton,  has  accommodations  for  300  guests.  It  has  a  large 
Casino  for  amusements,  and  is  open  from  June  to  October.  A  steam- 
boat plies  at  intervals  during  the  season  between  the  city,  Sullivan's 
Island,  and  Mount  Pleasant ;  the  latter  being  a  popular  picnic  resort. 


514  RICHMOND   TO   SAVANtnAH.  [Route  llS. 

113.  Richmond  to  Savannah. 

a.   By  '■'■Atlantic  Coast  Line.'''' 

The  Savannah  through  cars  of  the  "Atlantic  Coast  Line"  run  by 
way  of  Charleston ;  and  the  route  from  Richmond  to  Charleston  has 
been  described  in  Route  112  a.  From  Charleston  to  Savannah  the  route 
is  via  Savannah  &  Charleston  R.  R.  (distance,  115  miles),  which  runs 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  Atlantic  coast  line,  though  never  in  sight  of 
the  ocean.  For  miles,  near  the  Savannah  River,  the  rails  are  laid  on 
piles,  passing  through  marsh  and  morass,  and  crossing  swift-rushing, 
muddy  streams,  dignified  by  the  name  of  rivers,  and  called  by  euphonious 
Indian  names.  There  are  no  towns  of  importance  on  the  line,  but  the 
scenery  is  wild  and  rich.  Extensive  pine-forests,  lofty  cypresses,  wreathed 
in  garlands  of  pendent  moss,  the  bay  and  the  laurel,  draped  with  the 
vines  of  the  wild  grape  and  of  ivy,  and  huge  oaks  that  have  stood  the 
wear  and  tear  of  centuries,  line  the  road  on  either  side.  Noble  avenues 
are  created  by  these  forest  giants,  and  pendent  from  their  stalwart  limbs 
hang  long  festoons  of  moss  and  vine,  dimly  veiling  the  vista  beyond.  At 
Yemassee  (60  miles)  the  Savannah  &  Charleston  R.  R.  is  intersected  by 
the  Port  Royal  &  Augusta  R.  R.,  which  extends  from  Augusta  to  Bea2i- 
fort  and  For-t  Royal  (112  miles). 


b.    Via  Charlotte,  Columbia,  and  Augusta  (609 

As  far  as  Columbia  this  route  is  the  same  as  Route  112  6.  Be- 
yond Columbia  the  South  Carolina  Div.  of  the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R. 
continues  on  through  a  level,  wooded  region,  unmarked  by  any  striking 
feature.  Graniteville  (511  miles)  is  a  manufacturing  town,  with  several 
large  granite  cotton-mills,  giving  employment  to  several  hundred  opera- 
tives who  constitute  the  bulk  of  the  population.  Here  connection  may  be  j 
made  with  the  South  Carolina  R.  R.,  and  on  this  railway,  6  miles  beyond, 
is  Aiken  {Highland  ParTc  Hotel,  Park  Annex  Hotel?),  one  of  the  most 
frequented  winter-resorts  in  America.^  The  land  upon  which  it  lies  is 
an  elevated  plateau,  some  600  or  700  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  soil  is  an 
almost  unmixed  sand,  covered  by  a  scanty  crust  of  alluvium  which  is  so 
thin  that  a  carriage-wheel  easily  breaks  through.  It  bears  but  httle 
grass  and  hardly  any  of  the  minor  natural  plants  ;  but  the  great  South- 
ern pine  finds  here  a  congenial  habitat,  and  vast  forests  of  it  encircle 
the  town  on  all  sides.  The  streets  of  the  town  are  remarkably  wide,  the 
main  avenue  being  205  ft.  wide,  and  the  cross-streets  150  ft.  The 
houses  are  generally  large  and  pleasant,  and  very  far  apart.  Within 
the  town,  the  natural  barrenness  of  the  soil  has  been  overcome  by  care- 
ful culture  and  a  liberal  use  of  fertilizers ;  and  every  house  has  its  gar- 
den full  of  trees  and  Southern  plants.  Inside  the  white  palings  are 
dense  thickets  of  yellow  jasmine,  rose-bushes,  orange,  wild-olive,  and  fig- 
trees,  bamboo,   Spanish  bayonet,   and  numberless  sorts  of   vines  and 

1  For  full  and  minute  description  of  Aiken,  giving  tables  of  comparative  tem- 
perature, relative  dryness  (or  humidity),  etc.,  see  Appletons'  Illustkated 
Hand-Book  of  American  Winter  Resorts. 


Route  113.]  RlCHMOKI)   TO   SAVANNAH.  515 

creepers,  to  say  nothing  of  the  low  bush  and  surface  flowers  that  are 
common  in  the  North ;  but  without  the  palings,  the  sand  is  as  dry  and 
white  as  it  is  upon  the  sea-shore.  The  air  of  Aiken  is  remarkably  pure 
and  dry,  and  the  balsamic  odors  of  the  pines  endow  it  with  a  peculiar 
healing  power.  The  winter  climate  is  Avonderfully  mild  and  genial,  con- 
sisting, as  some  one  has  described  it,  of  "  four  months  of  June."  From 
observations  recorded  during  the  year  18*70,  it  was  found  that  the  mean 
temperature  of  Aiken  in  spring  is  63'4° ;  in  summer,  79-1° ;  in  autumn, 
63*7°;  in  winter,  46'4° ;  for  the  year,  63"1|^°.  The  average  rainfall 
during  the  same  period  was  :  spring,  11"9'7  inches ;  summer,  13"89  ;  au- 
tumn, 7*34  ;  winter,  7*16  ;  for  the  year,  40'36.  The  climate  is  as  bene- 
ficial to  rheumatic  and  gouty  patients  as  to  consumptives ;  and  many 
visit  Aiken  who,  without  being  sick,  desire  to  escape  the  rigors  of  a 
Northern  winter. 

Eleven  miles  beyond  Graniteville  the  train  reaches  Augusta  {Ar- 
lington^ Bon  Air,  Planters^  Hotel),  the  third  city  of  Georgia  in  population 
(33,300),  and  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  South.  It  is  situated 
at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Savannah  River,  and  embraces  an 
area  of  about  3  miles  in  length  and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth.  It 
is  regularly  laid  out,  with  broad  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  many  of  them  beautifully  shaded.  Broad  St.  is  the  main 
thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  is  165  ft.  wide  and  2  miles  long.  On 
it  are  the  principal  banks,  hotels,  and  shops ;  and  in  the  center  of  it 
is  the  *  Confederate  Monument  (the  finest  in  the  South),  consisting  of 
an  obelisk  80  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  a  soldier,  and  with  4 
portrait  statues  (including  Lee  and  Jackson)  on  the  corner  pedestals, 
*  Greene  Si.  is  168  ft.  wide,  and  fined  with  handsome  residences;  tall, 
spreading  trees  not  only  grace  the  sidewalks,  but  a  double  row,  with 
grassy  spaces  between,  runs  down  the  center  of  the  roadway.  Of  the 
public  buildings,  the  *  Citt/  Hall,  completed  in  1824  at  a  cost  of 
$100,000,  is  the  most  attractive.  In  front  of  it  stands  a  granite  monu- 
ment erected  by  the  city  in  1849  to  the  memory  of  the  Georgian  signers 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  The  Augusta  Exchange  is  at  the 
cor.  of  Jackson  and  Reynolds  Sts.  The  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  the  Orphan 
Asylum,  and  the  Opera-House,  cor,  of  Jackson  and  Green  Sts,,  are 
handsome  edifices.  The  commerce  of  Augusta  is  very  prosperous,  and 
the  fine  water-power  of  the  Augusta  Caned,  9  miles  long,  which  brings 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Savannah  River  to  the  city  at  an  elevation  of 
40  ft.,  is  enriching  it  with  extensive  manufactures.  Just  outside  of 
Jhe  city,  and  E.  of  the  City  Cemetery,  are  the  *  Fair  Grounds  of  the 
Cotton  States  Mechanics'  and  Agricultural  Fair  Association,  comprising 
47  acres,  laid  out  in  attractive  walks  and  drives,  A  most  charming 
view  of  Augusta  and  its  environs  may  be  had  from  Summer ville ,  a 
suburban  town  of  handsome  villas  situated  on  high  hills  about  3  miles 
from  the  city  (reached  by  street-cars).  Here  is  located  the  Bon  Air 
Hotel,  open  all  the  year  round.  Among  the  objects  of  interest  at 
Summerville  are  the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  built  ui  1827,  and  the  range  of 
workshops,  500  ft.  in  length,  built  and  used  by  the  Confederates  during 
the  war.     Across  the  river  from  Augusta  at  Hamburg  there  are  some 


516  SAVANNAH.  [Route  113. 

beautiful   wooded   and  grassy   terraces,  known  as   Schultz's  Hlll^   and 
much  resorted  to  as  a  picnic-ground. 

From  Augusta  to  Savannah  (132  miles)  the  route  is  via  the  Central 
R.  R.  of  Georgia,  which  passes  through  one  of  the  most  productive  and 
populous  sections  of  the  State.  There  are  no  points,  however,  of  spe- 
cial interest  on  the  line,  all  the  towns  being  small  and  of  merely  local 
importance.  At  Millen  (53  miles  from  Augusta)  the  road  forks,  one 
branch  going  to  Macon  and  the  other  to  Savannah. 

Savannah. 

Hotels,  etc. — The  leadmg  hotels  are  the  De  Soto,  in  Bull  St. ;  PulasM  House, 
m  Johnson  Square  ;  the  Screven  House,  in  Johnson  Square  ;  the  Marshall  House, 
in  Broughtou  St.  ;  and  Harriet  House,  in  Barnard  St.  Besides  the  routes  de- 
scribed above,  Savannah  is  reached  from  New  York  by  steamers,  leaving  Pier 
35.  North  River,  four  times  a  week.  Time,  about  55  hrs.  ;  fare  (cabin),  %20. 
There  are  also  steamers  to  Savannah  from  Philadelphia  every  ten  days,  from 
Boston  every  four  days,  and  Baltimore  once  a  week.  It  may  also  be  reached 
via  Norfolk  and  the  sea-coast  (see  Route  109)  and  the  Charleston  &  Savannah 
R.  R.  (see  above).  By  the  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  R.  R.  the  city  is  con- 
nected with  all  important  points  in  the  Gulf  States.  By  the  Central  R.  R.  of 
Georgia,  Asheville  may  be  reached  on  the  N.  by  way  of  Augusta,  while  to  the 
W.  branch  lines  run  to' Atlanta,  Birmingham,  and  Montgomery. 

Savannah,  next  to  Atlanta  the  chief  city  and  commercial  metropolis 
of  Georgia,  is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Savannah  River,  18  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  site  was  selected  by  General  Oglethorpe,  the 
founder  of  the  colony  of  Georgia,  who  made  his  first  settlement  at  this 
point  in  February,  1733.  The  city  occupies  a  bold  bluff,  about  40  ft.  high, 
extending  along  the  river-bank  for  a  mile,  and  backward,  widening  as  it 
recedes,  about  6  miles.  The  river  making  a  gentle  curve  around  Hutch- 
inson's Island,  the  water-front  of  the  city  is  in  the  shape  of  an  elongated 
crescent  about  3  miles  in  length.  The  corporate  Hmits  extend  back  on  the 
elevated  plateau  about  l-J  mile,  the  total  area  of  the  city  being  3^  sq.  m. 
In  its  general  plan  Savannah  is  universally  conceded  to  be  one  of  the 
handsomest  of  American  cities.  Its  streets  are  broad  and  beautifully 
shaded,  they  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  at  many  of  the  .prin- 
cipal crossings  are  small  public  squares  or  parks  from  14^  to  3  acres  in 
extent.  These  parks,  24  in  number,  located  at  equal  distances  through 
the  city,  neatly  inclosed,  laid  out  in  walks,  and  planted  with  the  ever- 
green and  ornamental  trees  of  the  South,  are  among  the  most  charac- 
teristic features  of  Savannah ;  and,  in  the  spring  and  summer  months, 
when  they  are  carpeted  with  grass,  and  the  trees  and  shrubbery  are  in 
full  foliage,  afford  delightful  shady  walks,  and  playgrounds  for  the  chil-.. 
dren,  while  they  are  not  only  ornamental,  but  conducive  to  the  general 
health  by  the  free  ventilation  which  they  afford.  Many  of  the  residences 
are  surrounded  by  flower-gardens,  which  bloom  throughout  the  year ; 
and  among  the  shrubbery,  in  which  the  city  is  literally  embowered,  are 
the  orange-tree,  the  banana,  the  magnolia,  the  bay,  the  laurel,  the  crape- 
myrtle,  the  stately  palmetto,  the  olive,  the  flowering  oleander,  and  the 
pomegranate. 

Savannah  was  founded  by  James  E.  Oglethorpe  in  1733.  In  1776  the  British 
attacked  it  and  were  repulsed  ;  but  on  December  29,  1779,  they  reappeared  in 


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Route  lis.]  SAVANNAH.  517 

ovenvhelming  force  and  took  possession  of  the  city.  In  October,  1779,  the 
combined  French  and  Americans  attempted  to  recapture  it,  but  were  unsuccess- 
ful, and  Count  Pulaski  fell  in  the  engagement.  Savannah  received  a  city  charter 
in  1789.  In  18.50  it  had  1.5,312  inhabitants  ;  in  18u0,  22,292  ;  and  in  1870,  28,235. 
According  to  the  U.  S.  Census  of  1880,  its  population  amounted  to  30,681,  and 
in  1890  was  43,189.  The  chief  business  of  the  place  is  in  cotton,  though  the 
trade  in  lumber  is  also  considerable.  As  a  cotton  port  it  ranks  second  in  the 
United  States.  It  recovered  rapidly  from  the  effects  of  the  civil  war,  and  its 
commerce  has  doubled.  The  chief  manufacturing  establishments  are  planing- 
mills,  foundries,  flouring  and  grist  mills,  and  fertilizer-factories. 

The  great  warehouses  of  the  city  are  located  on  a  naiu'ow  street  at 
the  foot  of  the  steep  bkiff ;  they  open  below  on  the  level  of  the  piers, 
and  from  the  uppermost  story  on  the  other  side  upon  a  paved  road  200 
ft.  wide  and  divided  by  rows  of  trees.  This  is  called  Bay  Street^  and  is 
the  great  commercial  mart  of  Savannah.  The  principal  business  streets 
are  Conc/ress,  Broughton,  W7iitaJce)\  and  Barnard  Sts.,  and  the  favorite 
pi'omenade  is  Bull  St.  to  Forsyth  Park.  Among  the  noteworthy  buildings 
are  the  granite  *Custoin-House,  the  Chatham  County  Court-House^ 
the  Post-  Office  (cor.  Whitaker  and  State  Sts.),  the  City  Exchange  (in  front 
of  which  General  Sherman  reviewed  his  army,  January  '7,  1865),  the 
Court-House^  the  Police  Barracks^  and  the  Artillery  Armory.  From 
the  tower  of  the  Exchange  the  best  *  view  of  the  city  and  neighborhood 
is  to  be  had.  The  building  on  the  N.  E.  cor.  of  Bull  and  Broughton  Sts., 
formerly  the  Masonic  Hall.^  but  now  the  Oglethorpe  Club.,  is  interesting 
as  the  place  where  the  Ordinance  of  Secession  was  passed,  Jan.  21,  1861. 
Four  years  later  (Dec.  28,  1864)  a  meeting  of  citizens  was  held  in  the 
same  apartment  to  commemorate  the  triumph  of  the  Union  arms.  The 
Georgia  Historical  Society  has  a  large  and  beautiful  hall,  in  which  are  a 
fine  library  and  some  interesting  relics ;  and  the  Telfair  Academy  of 
Arts.,  in  Barnard  St.,  contains  an  admirable  collection  of  casts,  many 
paintings,  and  other  objects  of  art.  There  is  an  excellent  system  of 
public  schools,  of  which  Chatham  Academy  is  the  center.  The  Inde- 
pendent Presbyterian  Church.,  at  BuU  and  Broad  Sts.,  has  erected  its 
third  edifice,  which  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  churches  in  the  South. 
Christ  Church.,  fronting  on  Johnson  Square,  is  the  mother  church  of 
the  Episcopal  communion  in  Georgia.  On  its  site  the  first  Sunday- 
school  was  established  in  America  by  John  Wesley.  St.  John's  Episco- 
pal Church.,  fronting  Madison  Square,  is  in  the  English  style  of  Gothic 
architecture,  with  rich  stained-glass  windows.  There  are  other  fine 
churches,  including  the  Mickva  Israel  Synagogue.,  fronting  Monterey 
Square,  that  are  worth  visiting. 

The  most  attractive  place  of  public  resort  is  *  Forsyth  Park,  an 
inclosure  of  30  acres  in  the  S.  part  of  the  city.  It  is  shaded  by  some 
venerable  old  trees,  is  laid  out  in  serpentine  walks,  and  ornamented  with 
evergreen  and  flowering  trees  and  shrubs.  In  the  center  is  a  handsome 
fountain,  after  the  model  of  that  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  Paris,  and 
a  stately  Confederate  Monument  stands  in  the  new  portion.  In  Johnson 
or  Monument  Square.,  near  the  center  of  the  city,  is  a  fine  Doric  obelisk 
erected  to  the  memory  of  General  Greene,  the  corner-stone  of  which  was 
laid  by  Lafayette  during  his  visit  in  1825.  The  *  Pulaski  Monu- 
ment stands  in  Monterey  Square,  and  is  one  of  the  most  perfect  speci- 


518  SAVANNAH.  [Route  113. 

mens  of  monumental  architecture  in  the  United  States.  The  steps  are 
plinths  of  granite ;  the  shaft  is  of  purest  marble,  55  ft.  high,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  an  exquisitely  carved  statue  of  Liberty  holding  the  national 
banner.  The  monument  appropriately  covers  the  spot  where  Pulaski 
fell,  during  an  attack  upon  the  city  while  it  was  occupied  by  the  Brit- 
ish, in  111%.  It  was  designed  by  Robert  E.  Launitz,  and  cost  $22,000. 
The  Jasper  Monument.,  in  Madison  Square,  Avas  unveiled  on  Feb.  22,  1888. 
The  bronze  statue  of  Sergeant  Jasper,  which  surmounts  the  pedestal,  is 
15  ft.  high,  and  repiesents  a  sturdy  specimen  of  manhood.  The  left 
hand  clutches  at  arm's-length  a  battle-worn  banner;  while  the  right 
hand,  holding  an  upturned  saber,  is  pressed  tightly  over  a  bullet-wound 
in  his  side.  The  statue  was  designed  by  Alexander  Doyle,  of  New 
York.  In  Court-House  Square  is  a  Monument  erected  in  1883  by  the 
Central  Railroad  &  Banking  Co.  in  memory  of  William  W.  Gordon,  its 
first  president. 

Though  built  upon  a  sandy  plain.  Savannah  is  not  without  suburban 
attractions,  there  being  several  places  in  its  vicinity  whose  sylvan  char- 
acter and  picturesque  beauty  are  in  keeping  with  the  "  Forest  City " 
itself.  Thunderbolt,  Isle  of  Hope,  Beaulieu,  Montgomery,  and  White 
Bluff,  are  all  rural  retreats  on  "  The  Salts,"  within  short  driving-distance 
of  the  city,  where,  in  the  summer  months,  bracing  sea-breezes  and  salt- 
water bathing  may  be  enjoyed.  The  great  drive  is  to  *  Bonaventure 
Cemetery,  which  is  situated  on  Warsaw  River,  a  branch  of  the  Savan- 
nah, about  4  miles  from  the  city.  The  scenery  of  Bonaventure  has  long 
been  renowned  for  its  Arcadian  beauty ;  for  its  broad  avenues  of  live- 
oaks  draped  in  pendent  gray  moss.  Laurel  Grove.,  the  municipal  ceme- 
tery, lies  S.  W.  of  the  city,  near  rors}i;h  Park.  ThimderhoU^  a  popular 
drive  and  summer  resort,  is  on  the  Warsaw  River,  1  mile  beyond  Bona- 
venture. According  to  local  tradition,  this  place  received  its  name  from 
the  fall  of  a  thunderbolt.  A  spring  of  water  which  issued  from  the 
spot  upon  that  event  has  continued  to  flow  ever  since.  Jasper  Spring, 
2ji  miles  W.  of  the  city,  is  the  scene  of  the  famous  Revolutionary 
exploit  of  Sergeant  Jasper,  who,  with  only  one  companion,  successfully 
assailed  a  British  guard  of  eight  men  and  released  a  party  of  American 
prisoners.  White  Bluff.,  10  miles  out,  is  another  favorite  resort  of  the 
Savannah  people,  and  the  road  to  it  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  of  the 
suburban  drives.  Tyhee  Beach.,  on  an  island  of  the  same  name  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Savannah  River,  is  the  great  seaside  resort  of  the  city. 
It  is  connected  by  rail,  and  5  daily  trains  run  during  the  summer 
months.  The  beach  is  5  miles  long,  and  a  magnificent  and  solid  road- 
way commands  a  view  of  the  ocean.  The  hotel  {Beach  House,  Hotel 
Tyhee,  Ocean  House)  accommodations  are  excellent,  and  the  surf-bath- 
ing unsurpassed. 


Route  114.]        SAVANNAH   TO    JACKSONVILLE.  519 

114.  Charleston  or  Savannah  to  Jacksonville,  Florida. 

steamer  Koutes.— A  steamer  of  the  Florida  line  leaves  Charleston  three 
times  a  week  (on  the  arrival  of  the  New  York  steamer)  for  Jacksonville,  con- 
necting by  rail  and  steamer  lines  with  all  points  in  Florida. 

The  most  direct  all-rail  route  from  Savannah  to  Jacksonville  is  via 
Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  R.  R.  to  Wat/cross  (96  miles),  and  thence 
via  the  Jacksonville  Division  of  that  road  (total  distance,  1 72  miles ; 
time,  5  hours;  fare,  $5.15).  The  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Rail- 
way is  the  great  connecting-hnk  between  the  railways  from  the  North 
(via  Savannah)  and  southern  Georgia  and  Florida.  The  main  line  runs 
S.  W.  from  Savannah  to  Bainhridge  on  the  Flint  River  (236  miles). 
Climax,  a  few  miles  E.,  is  the  point  of  connection  with  Chattahoochee, 
Fla,,  the  junction  of  the  through  Florida  line  from  Jacksonville  to  Pen- 
sacola.  Numerous  small  towns  are  clustered  along  the  line,  but  the 
only  one  that  need  be  mentioned  is  Thomasville  (200  miles  from 
Savannah),  which  attracts  attention  as  a  popular  winter  health  resort. 
It  is  a  pretty  town  of  about  5,514  inhabitants,  situated  at  the  N,  verge 
of  the  great  pine-forest  which  stretches  across  Southern  Georgia  from 
E.  to  W.  in  a  belt  75  miles  wide.  It  stands  on  the  highest  ground 
between  the  Savannah  and  Flint  Rivers,  300  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  has 
the  dry  pure  atmosphere,  laden  only  with  the  odors  of  pine-forests^ 
which  consumptives  highly  prize.  The  streets  of  the  town  are  broad 
and  shady,  and  in  tbe  surrounding  country,  besides  corn  and  cotton, 
grapes  are  produced  in  abundance.  There  are  several  well-conducted 
hotels,  among  which  are  the  Crulf  House,  the  Masury  Hotel,  the  Mitch- 
ell House,  and  the  Piney  Woods  Hotel.  The  town  is  supplied  with- 
water  from  an  artesian  well  1,900  ft.  deep.  This  region  is  a  great  cen- 
ter of  the  famous  "  Le  Conte  pear"  culture.  There  are  Episcopal,  Meth- 
odist, Baptist,  Presbyterian,  and  Roman  Catholic  churches,  and  many 
good  schools. 

Diverging  from  the  main  line  at  Dupont,  the  Florida  Div.  of  the 
Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  R.  R.  runs  S.  in  49  miles  to  Live  Oak,  situ- 
ated at  the  junction  with  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsular  R.  R.  Eleven 
miles  beyond  Live  Oak,  on  the  latter  road,  is  the  village  of  Wellborn, 
and  in  the  neighborhood  are  Lake  Wellborn  and  other  lakes,  well  stocked 
with  fish.  Several  miles  north  of  Live  Oak,  on  the  bend  of  the  Suwanee 
River  as  it  turns  eastward,  is  the  Lower  Mineral  Spring,  sometimes 
called  the  Lower  Suwanee  Spring.  It  may  be  reached  by  the  railroad 
from  Dupont,  Ga.  (42  miles).  This  spring  is  a  cove  of  the  river,  and 
rises  and  falls  with  the  same.  It  is  a  place  of  much  local  resort. 
The  spring  is  picturesque,  boiling  up  from  a  dark  gorge,  and  rises  and 
falls,  so  that  the  bathing-house  is  formed  by  several  stories  to  reach  the 
water  conveniently.  From  Live  OalT  the  connection  is  continued  by 
rail,  by  the  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  R.  R.,  into  southern  Florida, 
via  Branford  (Rowland's  Bluff),  thence  merging  into  the  Florida  South- 
ern Railway  at  Gainesville.  Twelve  miles  E.  from  Wellborn  is  Lake 
City  (Central,  Gee  House),  the  most  important  place  in  this  portion 
of  Florida,  with  2,020  inhabitants.     Within  the  city  limits  are  Lakes 


520  SAVANNAH   TO  JACKSONVILLE.        [Route  II4. 

Isabella,  De  Soto,  and  Hamburg,  and  Indian  or  Alligator  Lake  is  only 
half  a  mile  away.  The  climate  of  Lake  City  is  very  similar  to  that  of 
Jacksonville,  but  the  air  is  thought  to  be  somewhat  drier,  while  the  rich 
balsamic  odors  from  the  surrounding  forests  endow  it  with  exceptional 
curative  and  healing  power,  and  render  the  neighborhood  remarkably 
beneficial  to  consumptives  in  the  more  advanced  stages  of  the  disease. 
Olustee  (12  miles  beyond  Lake  City)  is  noted  as  the  site  of  a  battle  be- 
tween the  Federal  and  Confederate  forces,  fought  in  February,  1864,  in 
which  the  former  were  defeated.  Baldwin  is  a  small  station  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsular  R.  R.  (Route  119). 

Jacksonville. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  principal  hotels  are  the  8t.  James,  the  Windsor,  the 
Everett  House,  the  Carleton,  the  Duval,  the  Tremont,  and  the  Hotel  Togni. 
Prices  at  these  hotels  range  from  $3  to  $5  per  day.  There  are  a  number  of 
boarding-houses,  at  which  the  prices  range  from  $8  to  $20  a  week.  Good  fur- 
nished rooms,  including  lights,  fuel,  and  attendance,  may  be  had  in  private 
houses  for  from  $4  to  $10  per  week,  and  board  without  rooms  is  $11  per  week 
at  the  hotels,  and  less  at  the  boarding-houses.  Unfurnished  cottages  can  be 
hired  at  from  $20  to  $30  per  month. 

Steamer  Koutes.— Besides  the  other  steamer  lines  mentioned  in  Route  114, 
the  Clyde  line  of  steamships  runs  fom-  first-class  steamers  three  times  a  week 
from  New  York  to  Jacksonville,  stopping  at  Charleston  en  route,  leaving  New 
York  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays.  The  Mallory  line  also  runs  four 
first-class  steamers  to  Fernandina,  leaving  New  York  every  Tuesday  and  Fri- 
day. The  Ocean  Steamship  Co.  run  regular  steamers  from 'Boston,  New  York, 
and  Philadelphia  (freight  only)  to  Savannah,  connecting  with  the  Savannah. 
Florida,  &  Western  R.  R.  to  Jacksonville. 

During  the  winter  season  the  Atlantic  Coast  line  runs  a  vestibule  train  with 
most  luxurious  accommodations  three  times  a  week  each  way,  leaving  New 
York  after  breakfast  and  arriving  in  Jacksonville  and  St.  Augustine  in  time  for 
dinner  on  the  following  day  ;  also  daily  trains  having  through  buffet  sleeping- 
cars. 

Jacksonville,  the  largest  city  in  Florida,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  St.  John's  River,  about  25  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  was  named 
after  General  Andrew  Jackson,  was  laid  out  as  a  town  in  1822,  had  a 
population  of  1,045  in  1850,  of  6,912  in  18'70,  of  '7,648  in  1880,  and  of 
17,201  in  1890.  Its  resident  population  is  largely  increased  during  the 
winter  months  by  transient  visitors.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with 
streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles  and  shaded  with  trees.  The 
leading  thoroughfares  are  Bay^  Forsyth^  Main,  and  Laura  Sts.,  and  on 
these  are  situated  the  principal  commercial  buildings.  The  suburban 
villages  (East  Jacksonville,  La  Villa,  Springfield,  Brooklyn,  Riverside, 
Arlington,  St.  Nicholas,  South  Jacksonville,  and  Alexandria,  are  now 
included  in  the  city),  and  those  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  are  con- 
nected with  the  city  by  steam  ferry  and  an  iron  bridge  and  the  Jackson- 
ville, St.  Augustine  &  Indian  River  R.  R.  Besides  fine  public  schools, 
Jacksonville  contains  Baptist,  Catholic,  Congregational,  Episcopal,  Meth- 
odist, and  Presbyterian  churches  ;  a  circulating  library  and  a  free  read- 
ing-room ;  3  daily  newspapers  and  6  weeklies ;  banks,  an  opera-house, 
public  halls,  6  street-car  lines,  and  telegraphic  connections  with  all  parts. 
The  chief  business  is  the  sawing  and  shipment  of  lumber ;  cotton,  sugar, 
fruit,  fish,  and  early  vegetables  are  also  shipped  to  Northern  and  foreign 


Route  llJf.]        SAVANNAH    TO    JACKSONVILLE.  521 

ports.  The  Subtropical  Exhibition,  with  extensive  buildings  and  beau- 
tiful grounds,  is  open  at  times.  Near  by  are  the  Jacksonville  water- 
works, where  the  local  water  supply  is  obtained  from  artesian  wells. 
Jacksonville  is  much  resorted  to  by  invalids  on  account  of  its  mild 
and  salubrious  climate ;  and  many  prefer  remaining  here  to  going  farther 
into  the  interior,  on  account  of  the  superior  accommodations  which  it  of- 
fers, and  its  social  advantages.  The  mean  temperature  of  Jacksonville, 
as  reported  by  the  chief  signal-officer  of  the  United  States,  is  69*6° ;  of  the 
coldest  month  (Januaiw)  52-'7' ;  of  the  hottest  month  (July)  83 "4°.  Frost 
is  very  variable  at  different  seasons,  but  is  slight  in  Florida  in  proportion 
to  its  location  in  latitude.  It  occurs  oftenest  between  November  and 
March,  being  most  frequent  in  December  and  January,  and  rarely  show- 
ing itself  in  October  and  April  as  far  north  as  Jacksonville.  As  a  gen- 
eral thing  no  frost  occurs  throughout  the  year  below  lat.  28°  N.  Sum- 
mer being  the  rainy  season  in  Florida,  the  winters  are  usually  clear  and 
dry.  By  observations  taken  for  a  period  of  22  years  at  Jacksonville,  it 
was  found  that  January  averaged  20  clear  days;  February,  19;  March, 
20;  April,  25;  May,  22;  June,  17;  July,  18;  August,  19;  September, 
17;  October,  19;  November,  20;  and  December,  20.  It  maybe  sail  in 
general  terms  that  from  October  to  May  there  are  not  more  than  four  or 
live  rainy  days  in  a  month.  Brooklyn  and  Riverside  are  residential  sub- 
urbs along  the  river,  connected  with  the  city  by  street-cars.  Among  the 
amusements  at  Jacksonville  are  excursions  on  the  river  and  drives  on  the 
excellent  shell-roads  which  lead  out  of  the  city.  A  favorite  drive  is  to 
Moncriefs  Spriiig  (4  miles),  whose  waters  are  said  to  cure  malarial  dis- 
eases. Other  favorite  excursions  are  to  Pablo  Beach,  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  and  Mayport,  Bnrnside  Beach,  and  Fort  George  Idand  at  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  John's  River,  both  reached  by  railroads. 

Pablo  Beach. 

The  most  popular  local  resort  near  Jacksonville,  next  to  St.  Augus- 
tine, bears  a  name  almost  new  to  the  general  public.  It  is  Pablo  Beach. 
This  is  a  beautiful  location  on  the  Atlantic  beach,  a  few  miles  S.  of  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  John's.  It  is  connected  with  Jacksonville  by  a  short 
but  thoroughly  equipped  railroad,  known  as  the  Jacksonville  &  Atlantic 
R.  R.  Both  this  railroad  and  Pablo  Beach  are  the  result  of  Jackson- 
ville enterprise.  A  ride  of  thirty  minutes  lands  the  tourist  or  pleasure- 
seeker  upon  a  beach  incomparable  in  hardness,  smoothness,  and  extent. 
On  this  beats  the  Atlantic,  and  the  finest  of  marine  views  opens  be- 
fore him.  The  growth  of  Pablo  Beach  has  been  phenomenal.  It  is 
within  a  few  years  that  the  first  cottage  was  erected,  and  since  that 
time  many  buildings  have  been  completed  and  occupied  by  private  citi- 
zens. The  railroad  company  have  put  up  extensive  buildings,  bath- 
houses, pavilions  for  dancing,  skating,  etc.,  handsome  pagodas,  and 
other  attractive  improvements.  Aside  from  the  disbursements  of  the 
railroad  company,  |300,000  have  been  expended  in  the  development  of 
the  place.  It  seems  to  have  filled  a  need  of  Jacksonville.  It  has  cer- 
tainly attained  an  unparalleled  popularity  with  the  people  and  sojourners 
of  that  city.      The  attractions   and  amusements,  are  hunting,  fishing. 


522  JACKSONVILLE    TO    ST.    AUGUSTINE.     [Route  115. 

boating,  bathing  in  an  unequaled  surf,  and  riding,  driving,  and  bicycle- 
riding  on  the  magnificent  beach.  This  beach  stretches  away  in  an 
unbroken  line  to  St,  Augustine  on  the  S.,  and  to  Mayport  at  the  mouth 
of  the  St.  John's  on  the  N.  {Murray  Hall  and  Ocean  House). 

115.  Jacksonville  to  St.  Augustine. 

St.  Augustine  is  reached  from  Jacksonville  most  directly  by  the 
Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine  &  Indian  River  R.  R.,  38  m. ;  fare,  $1.50, 
or  $2.90  for  the  round  trip,  running  through  a  region  of  much  historical 
interest.  Also  by  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key  West  R.  R.  to  Palatka, 
thence  by  the  Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine  &  Indian  River  R.  R. 

St.  Augustine. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  principal  hotels  are  the  Alcazar,  in  King  St. ;  the  Cor- 
dova, in  King  St.;  the  Florida  House,  in  Treasury  and  St.  George  Sts.;  the 
Magnolia,  in  St.  George  St.;  the  Ponce  de  Leon,  in  King  St.;  and  the  San 
Marco,  in  San  Marco  Ave.,  outside  the  city  gates.  There  are  also  numerous 
boarding-houses,  at  which  board  may  be  had  for  from  $10  to  $15  a  week. 

St.  Augustine  is  situated  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Florida,  about  30 
miles  S.  of  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's  River  and  33  S.  E.  of  Jackson- 
ville. It  occupies  a  narrow  peninsula  formed  by  the  Matanzas  River 
on  the  E.  and  the  St.  Sebastian  on  the  S.  and  W.,  the  site  being  a  flat, 
sandy  level,  encompassed  for  miles  around  by  a  tangled  undergrowth  of 
low  palmettos  and  bushes  of  various  descriptions.  Directly  in  front  lies 
Anastasia  Island,  forming  a  natural  breakwater,  and  almost  entirely 
cutting  off  the  sea- view.  On  the  N.  end  of  the  island  is  a  lighthouse 
with  a  i-evolving  light,  situated  in  lat.  29°  53'  N.,  and  Ion.  81°  16'  W. 
The  Alameda  is  the  thoroughfare  of  the  place,  and  the  other  principal 
streets  are  Cordova^  St.  George,  Charlotte,  and  Bay  Sts.  The  latter  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  harbor,  Anastasia  Island,  and  the  ocean.  All 
the  streets  are  extremely  narrow,  being  only  twelve  or  fifteen  feet 
wide,  while  the  cross-streets  are  narrower  still.  An  advantage  of 
these  narrow  streets  in  this  warm  climate  is  that  they  give  shade,  and 
increase  the  draught  of  air  through  them  as  through  a  flue.  The  princi- 
pal streets  were  formerly  paved  with  shell-concrete,  portions  of  which 
are  still  to  be  seen  above  the  shifting  sand ;  and  this  flooring  was  so 
carefully  swept  that  the  dark-eyed  maidens  of  Old  Castile  who  once  led 
society  here  could  pass  and  repass  without  soiling  their  satin  slippers. 
No  rumbling  wheels  were  permitted  to  crush  the  fii-m  road-bed,  or  to 
whirl  the  dust  into  the  airy  verandas.  All  the  old  Spanish  residences 
are  built  of  coquina-stone.  Many  of  them  have  hanging  balconies  along 
their  second  stories,  which  in  the  narrow  streets  seem  almost  to  touch, 
and  from  which  their  respective  occupants  can  chat  confidentially  and 
even  shake  hands.  It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  St.  Augus- 
tine is  built  wholly  of  coquina  and  in  the  Spanish  style ;  there  are  many 
fine  residences  there  in  the  American  style,  and  St.  Augustine  may 
yet  rival  Newport  in  the  number  of  its  beautiful  villas.  A  profusion 
of  oranges,  lemons,  bananas,  figs,  date-palms,  and  all  manner  of  trop- 
ical flowers  and  shrubs,  ornament  their  grounds.     A  charming  drive  is 


Route  115.]     JACKSONTILLE   TO    ST.    AUGUSTINE.  523 

out  St,  George  St.,  through  the  City  Gate  to  the  beach  of  the  San 
Sebastian. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  St.  Augustine  is  the  old  *  Fort  of 
San  Marco  (now  J^o7't  Marioii)^  which  is  built  of  coquina,  a  unique 
conglomerate  of  fine  shells  and  sand  found  in  large  quantities  on  Anas- 
tasia  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  quarried  with  great  ease, 
though  it  becomes  hard  by  exposure  to  the  air.  The  fort  stands  on  the 
sea-front  at  the  N.  E.  end  of  the  town.  It  was  100  years  in  building, 
and  was  completed  in  1*756,  as  is  attested  by  the  following  inscription, 
which  may  still  he  seen  over  the  gateway,  together  with  the  arms  of 
Spain,  handsomely  carved  in  stone :  "  Don  Fernando  being  King  of  Spain, 
and  the  Field-Marshal  Don  Alonzo  Fernando  Herida  being  governor  and 
captain-general  of  this  place,  St.  Augustine  of  Florida  and  its  provinces, 
this  fort  was  finished  in  the  year  1756.  The  works  were  directed  by 
the  Captain-Engineer  Don  Pedro  de  Brazos  y  Gareny."  While  owned 
by  the  British,  this  was  said  to  be  the  prettiest  fort  in  the  king's  domin- 
ions. Its  castellated  battlements;  its  formidable  bastions,  with  their 
frowning  guns ;  its  lofty  and  imposing  sally-port,  surmounted  by  the  royal 
Spanish  arms ;  its  portcullis,  moat,  and  drawbridge ;  its  circular  and 
ornate  sentry-boxes  at  each  principal  parapet-angle;  its  commanding 
lookout  tower ;  and  its  stained  and  moss-grown  massive  walls — impress 
the  external  observer  as  a  relic  of  the  distant  past ;  while  a  ramble 
through  its  heavy  casemates — its  crumbling  and  dark  chapel,  with  elabo- 
rate portico  and  inner  altar  and  holy-water  niches ;  its  dark  passages, 
gloomy  vaults,  and  more  recently-discovered  dungeons — bring  you  to 
ready  credence  of  its  many  traditions  of  inquisitorial  tortures ;  of  decay- 
ing skeletons  found  in  the  latest  opened  chambers,  chained  to  the  rusty 
ring-bolts,  and  of  alleged  subterranean  passages  to  the  neighboring  con- 
vent. Next  to  the  fort  the  great  attraction  is  the  *  Sea- Wall,  which, 
beginning  at  the  water-battery  of  the  fort,  extends  S.  for  nearly  a  mile, 
protecting  the  entire  ocean-front  of  the  city.  It  is  built  of  coquina,  with 
a  granite  coping  4  ft.  wide,  and  furnishes  a  delightful  promenade  of  a 
moonlight  evening.  Near  the  S.  end  of  the  wall  are  the  LT.  S.  Barracks^ 
which  was  formerly  a  Franciscan  monastery,  but  has  undergone  exten- 
sive modifications  and  repairs.  The  old  Spanish  wall,  which  extended 
across  the  peninsula  from  shore  to  shore  and  protected  the  city  on  the 
N.,  has  crumbled  down  or  been  removed,  but  the  *City  Gate,  which 
originally  formed  a  part  of  it,  still  stands  at  the  head  of  St.  George  St. 
It  is  a  picturesque  structure,  with  quaint,  square  towers  and  loop-holes 
and  sentry-boxes  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation. 

In  the  center  of  the  town  is  the  Plaza  de  la  Constihccion,  nearly  in 
the  center  of  which  stands  a  monument  about  20  ft.  high,  erected  in 
1812  in  commemoration  of  the  Spanish  Liberal  Constitution.  Another 
monument  erected  to  the  Confederate  dead,  which  was  removed  from 
St.  George  St.  in  18*79,  now  stands  within  the  plaza  in  front  of  the  old 
Market.  A  fire  on  April  12,  188*7,  destroyed  some  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque buildings  in  the  city,  including  the  old  Catholic  Cathedral, 
which  has  been  rebuilt  and  enlarged.  The  belfry  contains  a  new  chime 
of   bells,  as  well  as  the  old  ones  which  used  to  hang  in  the  often- 


524  JACKSONVILLE    TO    ST.    AUGUSTINE.      [Route   115. 

sketched  belfry.  One  of  these  bells  bears  the  date  of  1682.  The  old 
Market  was  also  burned,  but  has  been  restored.  A  small  Episcopal 
church  fronts  on  the  Plaza,  and  there  are  Methodist  and  Baptist  churches 
in  the  city.  The  Memorial  Presbyterian  Churchy  erected  in  1889,  is  an 
elaborate  structure  in  the  style  of  the  Venetian  renaissance.  The  old 
Convent  of  St.  Mary'^s  is  an  interesting  building  in  St.  George  St., 
just  W.  of  the  Cathedral.  In  its  rear  is  a  more  modern  structure 
designated  as  the  Bishop's  Palace.  The  new  Convent  of  the  Sisters 
of  St.  Joseph  is  a  tasteful  coquina  building  in  St.  George  St.,  S.  of 
the  Plaza ;  the  old  convent  of  this  sisterhood  is  in  Charlotte  St.,  N.  of 
the  Barracks.  The  nuns  are  mainly  occupied  in  teaching  young  girls, 
but  they  also  manufacture  lace  of  a  very  fine  quality,  and  excellent  pal- 
metto hats.  After  the  Cathedral,  the  most  imposing  edifice  on  the  Plaza 
was  the  Q-overnor'^s  Palace.^  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Spanish  Gov- 
ernors, but,  like  the  Cathedral,  it  was  destroyed  by  the  conflagration  in 
1887.  It  has  since  been  rebuilt,  and  is  used  as  the  Post-Office.  The 
old  Huguenot  Burying-Ground,  in  King  St.  near  the  City  Gate, 
is  a  spot  of  much  interest ;  and  so  is  the  Military  Burying-  Ground 
(Just  S.  of  the  Barracks),  where  rest  the  remains  of  those  who  fell  near 
here  during  the  prolonged  Seminole  War. 

In  January,  1888,  was  opened  a  group  of  buildings  which  deserve 
inspection  even  by  the  transient  visitor.  The  Ponce  de  Leon  Hotel  cov- 
ers 4  acres,  and  is  half  a  mile  around.  It  is  built  of  coquina,  in  the 
Spanish  style,  inclosing  a  court  150  yds.  square.  In  the  main  building- 
is  a  rotunda  54  by  80  ft.,  4  stories  high,  a  dining-room  150  ft.  long,  and 
private  dining-rooms.  The  roof  is  flat,  and  is  intended  for  an  orangery. 
Besides  the  usual  accommodations  for  guests,  there  are  ladies'  billiard- 
rooms,  an  immense  children's  play-room,  artists'  studios,  ladies'  reading 
and  writing  rooms,  etc.,  and  attached  to  the  hotel  are  grounds  of  great 
beauty.  Opposite  the  Ponce  de  Leon  is  the  Alcazar.^  an  annex  to  the 
Ponce  de  Leon,  which  contains  immense  bathing-pools  and  dancing- 
rooms.  Near  both  is  the  Hotel  Cordova.^  built  in  similar  style.  A 
unique  feature  of  this  is  the  Sala  del  Sol,  or  sun-parlor,  108  ft.  long, 
paved  with  tiles,  with  a  roof  of  glass.  It  is  designed  for  the  use  of 
invalids  on  cool  days. 

There  are  many  fine  orange-groves  in  the  environs  of  St.  Augustine, 
and  visits  to  them  are  among  the  unfailing  delights  of  visitors.  The 
harbor  affords  excellent  opportunities  for  boating,  and  numerous  points 
of  interest  attract  excursion-parties.  Among  the  most  popular  of  these 
are  those  to  the  North  Beach,  one  of  the  finest  on  the  coast,  affording 
an  admirable  view  of  the  ocean;  to  the  South  Beach ;  to  the  sand-hills, 
where  General  Oglethorpe  planted  his  guns  and  laid  siege  to  Port 
Marion ;  to  Fishes  Island  ;  and  to  the  light-houses  and  coquina-quarries 
on  Anastasia  Island.  A  pleasant  trip  is  across  Matanzas  Bay,  and 
thence  by  railroad  across  Anastasia  Island  to  the  light-house  ;  and 
Matanzas  Inlet  affords  excellent  camping-places  for  hunting  and  fish- 
ing parties.  About  2-|-  miles  off  Matanzas  an  immense  Sidphur  Spring 
boils  up  out  of  the  ocean  where  the  water  is  132  ft.  deep,  and  is  well 
worth  a  visit.     Salt-water  bathing  may  be  indulged  in  at  St.  Augustine 


Route  116.]  THE    ST.    JOHn's    RIVER.  525 

in   suitable   bathing-houses,   but   the   shai^ks  renclei"   open   sea-bathing 
dangerous. 

St.  Augustine  is  the  oldest  European  settlement  in  the  United  States,  except- 
ing perhaps  Santa  Fe,  N.  M.,  having  been  founded  by  the  Spaniards  under 
Menendez  in  1.565.  more  than  half  a  century  before  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims 
at  Plymouth.  It  experienced  many  vicissitudes  ;  was  several  times  attacked  by 
the  French,  English,  and  Indians  ;  and  was  twice  assailed  by  expeditions  from 
the  neighboring  English  colonies  of  South  Carolina  and  Georgia.  With  the 
rest  of  Florida  it  came  into  the  possession  of  the  English  by  the  treaty  of  1763, 
was  ceded  to  Spain  in  1783,  and  was  transferred  to  the  United  States  in  1819. 
During  the  civil  war  it  changed  masters  three  times.  The  resident  popula- 
tion, according  to  the  census  of  1890,  was  4,742  ;  but  this  is  increased  to  10,000 
or  more  by  visitors  during  the  winter,  and  St.  Augustine  is  then  one  of  the  gay- 
est places  in  the  South.  The  climate  of  St.  Augustine  is  singularly  equable 
both  winter  and  summer,  the  mean  annual  temperature  being  70°.  The  mean 
temperature  for  winter  is  .58"08°  ;  for  spring,  68'54°  ;  for  sunnner,  80"27°  ;  and  for 
autumn,  71"7o°.  Frosts  seldom  occur  even  in  midwinter,  and  the  sea-breezes 
temper  the  heats  of  summer  so  that  they  are  quite  endurable. 

116,  The  St.  Jolin's  River, 

steamers  of  the  Clyde  Line  leave  Jacksonville  daily,  except  Saturday,  at  3.30 
p.  M.  for  Sanford  and  Enterprise.  Time  to  Sanford,  16  hrs.  There  are  numer- 
ous other  steamers  on  the  river,  some  running  through  to  Palatka  and  Sanford, 
and  others  running  only  to  the  lower  landings.  The  following  list  of  principal 
places  on  the  St.  John's  may  prove  useful  to  the  tomist  :  Riverside,  3  miles  from 
Jacksonville  ;  Black  Point,  10  :  Mulberry  Grove,  12  ;  Mandarin,  15  ;  Fruit  Cove, 
19  ;  Hibernia,  23  ;  Remington  JPark,  25  ;  Magnolia,  28  ;  Greea  Cove  Springs,  30  ; 
Hogarth's  Landing,  38  ;  Picolata,  44  :  Tocoi,  49  ;  Federal  Point,  58  ;  Orange  Mills, 
63  ;  Dancy's  Wharf,  66  ;  Whitestone,  68 ;  Russell's  Landing,  69  :  Palatka,  75  ; 
Rolleston,  78  ;  San  Mateo,  79  ;  Buffalo  Bluff.  87  ;  Ocklawaha  River,  84  ;  Wela- 
ka,  100  ;  Beecher,  101  :  Orange  Point,  113  ;  Mount  Roval,  105  ;  Fort  Gates,  lOG  ; 
Georgetown,  113  ;  Lake  View,  132  ;  Volusia,  134  ;  Orange  Bluff,  140  ;  Haw- 
kinsville,  160  ;  De  Land's  Landing,  162  ;  Lake  Beresford,  163  ;  Blue  Spring,  168  ; 
Emanuel,  185  ;  Shell  Bank,  193  ;  Sanford,  193  ;  Mellonville,  195  ;  Enterprise,  198  ; 
Cook's  Ferry  and  King  Philip's  Town,  224  ;  Lake  Harney,  225  ;  Salt  Lake,  270. 

The  St.  John's  River  has  its  sources  in  a  vast  elevated  savanna  mid- 
way down  the  peninsula,  flows  almost  directly  N.  for  300  miles  to 
Jacksonville,  and  then  turning  E.  empties  into  the  Atlantic.  Its  whole 
course,  which  lies  through  an  extremely  level  region,  is  about  300  miles, 
including  the  windings  of  the  river  above  Palatka,  and  throughout  the 
lower  150  miles  it  is  little  more  than  a  succession  of  lakes,  expanding 
in  width  from  \^  to  6  miles,  and  having  at  no  point  a  width  of  less 
than  -^  mile.  Its  banks  are  lined  with  a  luxuriant  tropical  vegetation, 
handsome  shade-trees  and  orange-groves,  and  here  and  there  are  pic- 
turesque villages.  "  The  banks  are  low  and  flat,"  says  Edward  King, 
"  but  bordered  with  a  wealth  of  exquisite  foliage  to  be  seen  nowhere 
else  upon  this  continent.  One  passes  for  hundreds  of  miles  through  a 
grand  forest  of  cypresses  robed  in  moss  and  mistletoe  ;  of  palms  tower- 
ing gracefully  far  above  the  surrounding  trees ;  of  palmettos  whose  rich 
trunks  gleam  in  the  sun ;  of  swamp,  white  and  black  ash,  of  magnolia, 
of  water-oak,  of  poplar  and  plane  trees  ;  and,  where  the  hammocks  rise 
a  few  feet  above  the  water-level,  the  sweet-bay,  the  olive,  the  cotton- 
tree,  the  juniper,  the  red  cedar,  the  sweet-gum,  the  live-oak,  shoot  up 
their  splendid  stems ;  while  among  the  shrubbery  and  inferior  growths 


52f)  THE  ST.  John's  eivee.  [Route  116. 

one  may  note  the  azalea,  the  sumach,  the  sensitive  plant,  the  agave,  the 
poppy,  the  mallow,  and  the  nettle.  The  vines  run  not  in  these  thickets,  but 
over  them.  The  fox-grape  clambers  along  the  branches,  and  the  wood- 
bine and  bignonia  escalade  the  haughtiest  forest-monarchs.  When  the 
steamer  nears  the  shore,  one  can  see  far  through  the  tangled  thickets 
the  gleaming  water,  out  of  which  rise  thousands  of  '  cypress-knees,'  look- 
ing exactly  like  so  many  champagne-bottles  set  into  the  current  to  cool. 
The  heron  and  the  crane  saucily  watch  the  shadow  which  the  approach- 
ing boat  throws  near  their  retreat.  The  wary  monster-turtle  gazes  for 
an  instant,  with  his  black  head  cocked  knowingly  on  one  side,  then  dis- 
appears with  a  gentle  slide  and  a  splash.  An  alligator  grins  familiarly 
as  a  dozen  revolvers  are  pointed  at  him  over  the  boat's  side,  suddenly 
'  winks  with  his  tail,'  and  vanishes !  as  the  bullet  meant  for  his  tough 
hide  skims  harmlessly  over  the  ripples  left  above  him.  .  .  .  For  its 
whole  length  the  river  affords  glimpses  of  perfect  beauty.  It  is  not 
grandeur  which  one  finds  on  the  banks  of  the  great  stream :  it  is  Nature 
run  riot.  The  very  irregularity  is  delightful,  the  decay  is  charming,  the 
solitude  is  picturesque." 

Although  the  development  of  railroads  has  rendered  the  old  regula- 
tion-trip up  the  St.  John's  a  thing  of  the  past,  yet  the  voyage  is  worth 
taking  by  admirers  of  scenery,  and  it  is  traversed  by  daily  steamers 
to  its  upper  waters.  Noticeable  points  are  Orange  Park^  whose 
spires  can  be  seen  from  the  steamer,  and  four  miles  above  it,  on  the 
E.  bank,  Mandarin^  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  on  the  St.  John's. 
It  is  a  village  of  some  1,739  inhabitants,  and  is  the  winter-home  of 
Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  whose  cottage  is  situated  near  the  river,  a 
few  rods  to  the  left  of  the  shore-end  of  the  pier.  Seven  miles  above 
Mandarin,  on  an  island  near  the  opposite  bank,  is  Hibernia  (16  miles 
from  Jacksonville).  Magnolia  {Magnolia  Hotel)  is  situated  on  the 
W.  bank,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  most  desirable  resorts  in  Flor- 
ida for  consumptives.  It  has  a  sandy  soil,  covered  with  beautiful 
groves  of  pine  and  orange  trees,  and  there  are  no  dangerous  hummock- 
lands  near  by.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  points  on  the  river.  In 
the  vicinity  is  Magnolia  Pointy  one  of  the  highest  points  of  land  extending 
into  the  river  between  Jacksonville  and  Palatka.  A  little  to  the  N.  of  the 
Point,  Black  Creek,  a  navigable  stream,  up  which  small  steamers  make 
weekly  trips  as  far  as  Middlehurg^  empties  into  the  St.  John's.  From  the 
banks  alligators  are  sometimes  seen,  which  are  apt  to  be  mistaken  for 
logs  which  are  floated  down  this  stream  in  large  quantities  to  market. 
Three  miles  above  Magnolia  are  the  Green  Cove  Springs  {Clarendon 
Hotels  St.  Clair),  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  on  the  river.  The  place  takes 
its  name  from  a  sulphur-spring,  situated  about  100  yds.  from  the  landing 
amid  a  grove  of  great  water-oaks,  covered  with  hanging  festoons  of  gray 
moss  and  mistletoe.  The  spring  discharges  about  3,000  gallons  a  min- 
ute, and  fills  a  pool  some  30  ft.  in  diameter  with  greenish-hued  crystal-clear 
water.  The  water  has  a  temperature  of  18°  Fahr. ;  contains  magne- 
sium and  calcium  sulphate,  sodium  and  iron  chlorides,  and  hydrogen 
sulphide;  is  used  both  for  bathing  and  drinking,  and  is  considered 
beneficial  for  rheumatism,  gouty  affections,  and  Bright's  disease  of  the 


Route  116.]  THE    ST.    JOHn's   RIYEE.  527 

kidneys.  Picolata  is  the  site  of  an  ancient  Spanish  settlement,  of  which 
no  traces  now  remain.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  are  the  ruins 
of  a  great  earthwork  fort  of  the  time  of  the  Spanish  occupation.  Pass- 
ing Federal  Pointy  a  wood-station,  Orange  Mills  (63  miles),  and  Dancy's 
Wharf  (66  miles) — the  two  latter  noted  for  their  fine  orange-groves — 
the  steamer  stops  at  Palatka  {Putnam  House^  Saratoga^  The  Berk- 
shire)^ the  largest  town  on  the  river  above  Jacksonville.  It  has  a  per- 
manent population  of  3,039,  and  is  admirably  situated  on  high  ground  on 
the  W.  bank  of  the  liver,  where  the  surface-land  is  for  the  most  part 
sandy.  The  blandness  of  its  climate  renders  Palatka  favorable  to  con- 
sumptives, and  it  offers  all  the  advantages  in  the  way  of  postal  and  tele- 
graphic facilities,  etc.,  possessed  by  any  of  the  interior  resorts.  Palatka 
was  the  steamboat  headquarters  for  the  Upper  St.  John's  and  its  tribu- 
taries, but,  since  the  completion  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa,  &  Key  West 
R.  R.  to  Enterprise^  much  of  the  traffic  is  diverted  to  the  railroad.  It 
is  a  terminus  of  the  Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine  &  Indian  River  R.  R. 
Steamers  run  from  Palatka  up  the  Ocklawaha  River  to  Silver  Spring, 
Ocala,  and  the  head  of  navigation  (see  Route  117).  Another  line  runs 
via  Deep  River  to  Crescent  City^  on  Lake  Crescent,  25  miles  S.  of  Pa- 
latka. All  travel  formerly  went  over  this  route,  but  now  it  goes  via 
the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  k  Key  West  system  to  Crescent  City  Landing, 
where  all  trains  stop,  and  direct  connections  are  made  with  boat  for 
Crescent  City, 

All  the  towns  on  the  W.  side  of  the  river  from  Jacksonville  to  Palatka  are 
also  traversed  by  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key  West  R.  E.,  which  is  con- 
tinued from  Palatka  through  Seville,  Orange  City  to  Sanford.  From  Sanford 
this  line  passes  the  rising  resort  of  Winter  Park  ( The  Seminole  Hotel),  Orlando, 
and  Kiseimee  City,  the  headquarters  of  the  Disston  Co.,  to  Tampa.  Two 
through  trains  run  daily  over  this  road  by  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key 
West  E.  E.  from  Jacksonville  to  Tampa.  Palatka  is  also  the  W.  terminus  of 
the  Florida  Southern  E.  E.  The  latter  road  runs  to  Eochelle,  Leesburg,  Pem- 
berton,  Lakeland,  Bartow,  and  Punta  Gorda,  on  Charlotte  Harbor. 

Above  Palatka  the  vegetation  becomes  more  characteristically  tropi- 
cal, and  the  river  narrows  down  to  a  moderate-sized  stream,  widening  out 
at  last  only  to  be  merged  in  Grand  and  Little  Lake  George,  Dexter's  Lake, 
Lake  Beresford,  and  Lake  Monroe,  at  Enterprise.  The  steamers  make 
the  run  during  the  night  from  Palatka  to  Enterprise  in  about  10  hours. 
Five  miles  above  Palatka,  on  the  opposite  bank,  is  San  Mateo^  a  thriving 
settlement  situated  on  a  high  ridge  overlooking  the  river.  Welaka 
{McClure  House)^  25  miles  above  Palatka,  is  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Ocklawaha  River,  and  is  the  site  of  what  was  originally  an  Indian  village, 
and  afterward  a  flourishing  Spanish  settlement.  The  name  is  Indian, 
meaning  "  river  of  lakes."  Just  above  Welaka  the  river  widens  into 
Little  Lake  George^  1  mile  wide  and  2  miles  long,  and  then  into  Lake 
George,  6  miles  wide  and  13-|-  miles  long.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  sheets  of  water  in  the  world,  being  considered  by  many  tourists 
equal  in  attractions  to  its  namesake  in  the  State  of  New  York.  Among 
the  many  lovely  islands  which  dot  its  surface  is  one  called  Lrayton^  which 
is  1,700  acres  in  extent,  and  contains  one  of  the  largest  orange-groves  on 
the  river.     All  along  the  lake  the  eye  is  delighted  and  the  ear  charmed 


528  THE  ST.  John's  rivee.  [I^onte  116. 

by  the  brilliant  plumage  and  sweet  song  of  the  Southern  birds.  One 
finds  here  the  heron,  the  crane,  the  white  curlew,  the  pelican,  the  loon, 
and  the  paroquet ;  and  there  are  many  varieties  of  fish.  Volusia  (5 
miles  above  Lake  George)  is  a  landing-station,  with  a  settlement  of  con- 
siderable size  back  from  the  river.  An  ancient  Spanish  town  used  to 
stand  here,  this  formerly  being  the  principal  point  on  the  line  of  travel 
between  St.  Augustine  and  the  Mosquito  Inlet  country.  Orange  Grove 
and  HawkinsviUe  are  other  landings  ;  and  35  miles  above  Volusia  is  Blue 
Spring^  one  of  the  curious  mineral  springs  in  the  State.  It  is  500  yards 
from  the  St.  John's,  but  the  stream  flowing  from  it  is  large  enough  at 
its  confluence  with  the  river  for  the  steamers  to  float  in  it.  From  Blue 
Spring  a  railroad  runs  in  30  miles  to  New  Smyrna,  by  way  of  Lake 
Helen.  Pursuing  its  voyage  to  the  south,  the  steamer  speedily  enters 
Lake  Monroe^  a  sheet  of  water  4  miles  long  by  4  miles  wide,  teeming 
with  fish  and  wild-fowl.  On  the  south  side  of  the  lake  is  Sanford 
{Sanford^  San  Leon)^  a  young  but  rapidly  growing  city  of  2,016  inhab- 
itants, the  metropolis  of  S.  Florida.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation for  large  steamers  on  the  St.  John's,  and  is  the  principal  avenue 
of  entrance  to  Orange  County,  whither  so  many  of  the  new  settlers  are 
going.  The  South  Florida  R.  R.  extends  S.  W.  to  Tampa  (the  fourth 
city  in  size  in  the  State),  opening  up  an  excellent  country,  and  pass- 
ing the  gi'owing  towns  of  AUamonte  Springs,  Winter  Park  {Seminole 
Hotel),  and  Orlando  {San  Juan  Hotel).  Near  Sanford  and  Orlando 
are  a  number  of  fine  orange-groves.  Opposite  Sanford,  reached  by 
the  railroad  bridge,  is  Enterprise,  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in 
Southern  Florida  for  invalids,  especially  for  those  suffering  from  rheuma- 
tism. Frederick  De  Bary,  the  well-known  champagne  importer  of  New 
York,  and  the  founder  of  the  steamboat  line  on  the  St.  John's,  has 
his  Florida  country-seat  near  here.  The  climate  is  rather  warmer  than 
that  of  Jacksonville  and  Magnolia,  but  it  is  said  -to  have  special  invigor- 
ating qualities  which  speedily  convert  invalids  into  successful  fishermen 
and  hunters.  The  Brock  House  is  famous  among  travelers,  and  board 
may  be  had  in  private  families  for  from  $8  to  $15  per  week.  A  mile  E. 
of  the  town  is  the  Green  Spring,  a  sulphur-spring,  with  water  of  a  pale- 
green  hue,  but  quite  transparent.  It  is  nearly  80  ft.  in  diameter,  and 
about  60  ft.  deep. 

Although  Sanford  is  the  terminus  of  regular  navigation  on  the  St. 
John's,  there  is  for  the  sportsman  still  another  hundred  miles  of  narrow 
river,  deep  lagoons,  gloomy  bayous,  and  wild,  untrodden  land,  where  all 
sorts  of  game  are  plentiful,  while  the  waters  teem  with  fish.  Small 
steamers  run  through  Lake  Harney  to  Salt  Lake,  the  nearest  point  to 
the  Indian  River  from  St.  John's ;  and  a  small  steamboat  makes  fre- 
quent excursions  to  Lake  Jessup  and  Lake  Harney,  for  the  benefit  of 
those  who  wish  to  try  their  hand  at  the  exciting  sport  of  alligator-shoot- 
ing, or  of  those  who  wish  simply  to  enjoy  the  charming  scenery.  The 
trip  to  Lake  Harney  and  back  is  made  in  12  hours.  Lake  Jessup  is  near 
Tjake  Harney;  it  is  lY  miles  long  and  5  miles  wide,  but  is  so  shallow 
that  it  can  not  be  entered  by  a  boat  drawing  more  than  3  ft.  of  water. 
The  St.  John's  rises  in  the  elevated  savanna  before  mentioned,   fully 


Route  117.]  THE    OCKXAWAHA   RIYEE.  529 

120  miles  S.  of  Sanford,  but  tourists  seldom  ascend  farther  than  Lake 
Harney.  About  30  miles  S.  E.  of  Enterprise  is  the  ancient  town  of 
Neio  Smyrnu  (see  Eoute  118). 

117.  The  Ocklawaha  River. 

The  Ocklawaha  empties  into  the  St.  John's  about  25  miles  S.  of 
Palatka,  opposite  the  small  town  of  Welaka  (see  Koute  1 1 6),  after  flowing 
for  about  250  miles  through  Putnam,  Marion,  and  Sumter  Counties.  The 
channel  possesses  no  banks  to  speak  of,  being  mainly  a  navigable  passage 
through  a  succession  of  small  lakes  and  cypress-swamps  ;  but  small 
steamers  ascend  it  for  a  distance  of  nearly  200  miles.  An  excursion  up 
the  Ocklawaha  to  Silver  Springs  (109  miles)  is  perhaps  the  most  unique 
experience  of  the  tourist  in  Florida,  and  every  one  who  can  should 
make  it.  Alligators  of  immense  size  are  seen,  and  birds  of  the  most 
curious  forms  and  brilliant  plumage  are  everywhere  conspicuous.  From 
Palatka  steamers  run  to  Silver  Springs,  which  can  also  be  reached  by 
the  Southern  Division  of  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsular  P.  R.  via 
Waldo. 

The  principal  landing  on  the  Ocklawaha  is  Silver  Springs  (Silver 
Sprincfs  Hotel),  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  of  the  springs  of  Flor- 
ida, navigable  by  steamers  of  several  tons'  burden.  This  spring  is  said 
to  be  the  traditional  "  fountain  of  youth "  of  which  Ponce  de  Leon 
heard,  and  for  which  he  so  vainly  searched.  The  clearness  of  its 
waters  is  wonderful ;  they  seem  more  transparent  than  air.  "  You  see 
on  the  bottom,  80  ft  below,  the  shadow  of  your  boat,  and  the  exact 
form  of  the  smallest  pebble ;  the  prismatic  colors  of  the  rainbow  are 
beautifully  reflected,  and  you  can  see  the  fissure  in  the  rocky  bottom 
through  which  the  water  pours  upward  like  an  inverted  cataract."  A 
deep  river,  100  ft.  wide,  is  formed  by  the  water  of  this  spring,  which  in 
the  course  of  9  miles  forms  a  junction  with  the  Ocklawaha.  This  is 
known  as  the  "  Run,"  and  a  little  steamer  plies  on  it  and  the  spring. 
Ocala  is  only  5  miles  distant  from  the  spring,  and  the  Ocala  House  ac- 
commodates 400  guests. 

Sixteen  miles  south,  on  the  Florida  C.  &  P.  Co.'s  line,  is  the  Lake 
Weir  Country  ;  10  miles  farther  is  Wildwood  (whence  a  branch  line  of 
railroad  runs  to  Leesbui'g,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  South 
Florida  R.  R.  for  Plant  City).  At  Tavares  connection  is  made  with 
Sanford,  on  the  St.  John's  River,  and  Orlando.  Perhaps  the  best  way 
to  visit  Silver  Springs  is  by  the  Florida  Southern  R,  R.  (see  Route  116) 
to  Ocklawaha  and  Silver  Springs,  and  then  down  the  Ocklawaha  River  to 
Palatka. 

34 


530  THE    IXDIAX    RIVER    COUNTRY.         [Route   118. 

118.  The  Indian  River  Country. 

At  Enterprise  the  Indian  River  Division  of  the  Jacksonville.  Tampa  &  Key 
West  R.  R.  conveys  the  traveler  in  parlor-coaches  to  a  hitherto  inaccessible  re- 
gion. It  is  thus,  by  a  pleasant  ride  through  Enterprise,  Osteen,  Oak  Hill,  Mims, 
and  La  Grange  to  Titusville,  brought  within  easy  reach  of  Jacksonville. 

Indian  River  is  a  long  lagoon  or  arm  of  the  sea,  beginning  near  the 
lower  end  of  Mosquito  Inlet  (with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  short 
canal),  and  extending  S.  along  the  E.  side  of  the  peninsula  for  a  distance 
of  nearly  150  miles.  It  is  separated  from  the  Atlantic  by  a  narrow 
strip  of  land,  through  which  it  communicates  with  the  open  water  by 
the  Indian  River  Inlet  (latitude  27°  30'  N.)  and  by  Jupiter  Inlet ;  and  for 
more  than  30  miles  of  its  northern  course  the  St.  John's  River  flows 
parallel  with  it,  at  an  average  distance  of  not  more  than  10  miles.  The 
water  of  the  lagoon  is  salt,  though  it  receives  a  considerable  body  of 
fresh  water  through  Santa  Lucie  River,  an  outlet  of  the  Everglades ; 
there  are  no  marshes  in  the  vicinity ;  the  adjacent  lands  are  for  the  most 
part  remarkably  fertile,  producing  abundantly  oranges,  lemons,  limes, 
bananas,  cocoanuts,  pineapples,  guavas,  grapes,  sugar-cane,  strawberries, 
blackberries,  and  all  varieties  of  garden  vegetables  ;  and  the  river  itself 
teems  to  an  almost  incredible  degree  with  fish  of  every  kind,  including 
the  pompano,  the  mullet,  the  sheepshead,  tarpon,  turtles,  and  oysters 
of  the  most  delicious  flavor.  Along  the  shore  of  the  lagoon  toward 
the  Atlantic  is  a  belt  of  thick,  evergreen  woods,  which,  breaking  the 
force  of  the  chilling  east  winds  that  sometimes  visit  these  latitudes  in 
winter,  renders  the  climate  of  the  Indian  River  country  peculiarly  favor- 
able to  consumptives.  "  The  sportsman  who  pitches  his  tent  for  a  few 
days  on  the  splendid  camping-ground  of  the  W.  shore  will  see  the 
pelican,  the  cormorant,  the  sea-gull,  and  gigantic  turtles,  many  of  them 
weighing  500  pounds  ;  may  see  the  bears  exploring  the  nests  for  turtles' 
eggs  ;  may  '  fire-hunt '  the  deer  in  the  forests  ;  chase  the  alligator  to  his 
lair  ;  shoot  at  the  '  raft-duck  ' ;  and  fish  from  the  salt-ponds  all  the  finny 
monsters  that  be.  Hardly  a  thousand  miles  from  New  York  one  may 
find  the  most  delicate  and  delightful  tropical  scenery,  and  may  dwell  in 
a  climate  which  neither  Hawaii  nor  southern  Italy  can  excel."  Thus 
wrote  Mr.  Edward  King  in  1873.  Since  then  things  have  greatly 
changed.  Titusville,  City  Point,  and  Rockledge  are  now  flourishing 
settlements,  and  the  entire  region  is  rapidly  filling  up  with  inhabitants. 
It  was  by  one  of  the  many  southern  outlets  of  Indian  River  that  General 
Breckenridge  escaped  to  Nassau  after  the  collapse  of  the  Confederacy. 

At  its  N.  end,  as  already  mentioned,  the  Indian  River  connects  by 
Clifton  Canal  with  the  Mosquito  Lagoon ;  and  at  the  N.  end  of  Mosquito 
Lagoon  the  Halifax  River  comes  in,  which  begins  about  40  miles  S.  of  St. 
Augustine.  The  principal  settlements  are  Ormond,  Daytona,  and  Port 
Orange,  on  the  Halifax  River ;  New  Smyrna,  on  the  Hillsboro'  River,  3 
miles  S.  of  Mosquito  Inlet,  near  the  coast;  Titusville  (formerly  Sand 
Point)  and  Rockledge,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Indian  River.  Titusville 
is  now  the  terminus  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key  West  R.  R.,  which 
runs  from  Jacksonville,  via  Enterprise,  to  Titusville ;  thence  the  Jack- 


Route   119.]         FERXANDIXA    TO    CEDAK    KEY.  531 

sonrille,  St.  Augustine  k  Indian  River  R.  R.  is  taken  fox-  20  miles  to 
Rockledge.  The  Indian  River  Steamboat  Co.'s  Doats  run  from  Titus- 
ville  to  Jupiter  through  the  Halifax  and  Indian  Rivers,  affording  tour- 
ists ample  facilities  for  visiting  this  portion  of  Florida,  and  also  Lake 
Worth. 

119.  Fernandina  to  Cedar  Key. 

Fernandina  {Egmont  Hotel)  is  an  interesting  old  seaport  town,  situ- 
ated on  the  W.  shore  of  Amelia  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Amelia  River, 
50  miles  N.  of  Jacksonville.  It  is  reached  by  rail  from  Jacksonville ; 
by  steamer,  direct  from  New  York ;  and  by  the  "inside  route"  steamers 
from  Charleston  and  Savannah  (see  Route  114).  Fernandina  was  located 
by  a  Spanish  grantee  early  in  the  present  century,  and  at  the  present  time 
has  a  population  of  2,803,  which  is  largely  increased  during  the  winter 
season.  Its  harbor  is  the  finest  on  the  coast  S.  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  being 
landlocked  and  of  such  capacity  that,  during  the  War  of  1812,  when  the 
town  was  Spanish  and  neutral,  more  than  300  square-rigged  vessels  rode 
at  anchor  in  it  at  one  time.  It  has  an  important  trade  in  lumber ; 
possesses  a  large  cotton-ginning  establishment  and  a  manufactory  of 
cotton-seed  oil ;  and  it  is  in  the  neighboi'hood  of  numerous  sugar,  cot- 
ton, and  orange  plantations.  The  climate  of  Fernandina  is  very  similar 
to  that  of  St.  Augustine ;  mild  and  equable  in  winter,  and  in  summer 
tempered  by  the  cool  sea-breezes.  The  town,  which  is  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsular  R.  R.,  contains  *1  churches,  a 
large  number  of  business  houses,  a  flourishing  young  ladies'  seminary, 
and  a  weekly  newspaper.  Fernandina  possesses  other  attractions  for 
visitors  besides  its  delightful  climate.  There  is,  for  instance,  a  fine 
shell-road  2  miles  long,  leading  to  the  ocean-beach,  which  affords  a 
remarkably  hard  and  level  drive  of  nearly  20  miles.  A  favorite  excur- 
sion is  to  Dungeness^  the  purposed  home  of  the  Revolutionary  hero. 
General  Nathanael  Greene.  This  estate,  of  about  10,000  acres  of  choice 
land,  was  the  gift  of  the  people  of  Georgia  to  the  general,  in  recogni- 
tion of  his  services  as  commander  of  the  Southern  provincial  army. 
The  grounds  were  beautifully  laid  out,  and  are  embellished  with  flower- 
gardens  and  groves  of  olive-ti'ees,  and  live-oaks  draped  with  festoons  of 
Spanish  moss.  General  Greene,  however,  never  lived  here,  having  died 
on  the  Savannah  River.  The  building  was  burned  during  the  civil  war. 
In  1884  Cumberland  Island,  on  which  Dungeness  is  situated,  was  pur- 
chased by  Thomas  M.  Carnegie,  who  built  a  mansion  there.  On  the 
beach,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  mansion,  is  the  grave  of  another 
Revolutionary  hero,  General  Henry  Lee,  marked  by  a  head-stone  erected 
by  his  son.  General  Robert  E.  Lee. 

Beginning  at  Fernandina,  the  Florida  C.  &  P.  R.  R.  extends  directly 
across  the  State  to  Tampa  (212  miles),  with  a  branch  to  Cedar  Key,  on 
the  Gulf  coast,  passing  through  some  of  the  most  picturesque  scenery  ia 
Florida.  There  are  a  number  of  small  stations  on  the  line,  but  few  re- 
quiring mention.  Baldwin  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Western  Division  of 
the  line  (see  Route  109).  Noteworthy  towns  are  liawtey,  famous  for 
its  strawberry  farms,  and  Waldo  (84  miles ;    Waldo  House)^  which  is 


532  MIDDLE  FLORIDA.  [Route  120. 

at  the  junction  of  the  branch  running  to  Cedar  Key.  The  climate  here 
is  dry  and  the  air  balsamic,  and  the  region  is  regarded  as  particularly 
favorable  to  invalids  suffering  from  lung-diseases.  The  woods  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  village  abound  in  deer,  ducks,  quail,  etc. ;  and  about  2 
miles  distant  is  Santa  Fe  Lake^  which  is  9  miles  long  and  4  wide,  and 
affords  good  facilities  for  boating  and  tishing.  The  streams  in  the 
neighborhood  are  filled  with  trout  and  perch.  The  Santa  Fe  River  dis- 
appears underground  a  few  miles  from  Waldo,  and,  after  running  under- 
ground for  two  miles,  rises  and  continues  to  its  discharge  into  the  Suwanee 
River.  Gainesville  {Arlington^  Brovm^  Rochemont)  is  the  principal 
town  on  the  Cedar  Key  branch  of  the  road.  It  has  2,790  inhabitants,  four 
churches,  and  two  newspapers,  and,  owing  to  its  situation  in  the  center 
of  the  peninsula  and  in  the  midst  of  the  pine-forests  which  clothe  this 
portion  of  Florida,  Gainesville  is  much  frequented  by  consumptives  and 
other  invahds.  The  hotels  and  a  large  portion  of  the  town  were  de- 
stroyed by  fire  on  May  3,  1884,  but  have  been  substantially  rebuilt  since 
the  disaster.  The  Alachua  Sink  teems  with  fish  of  various  kinds,  and 
with  alligators.  Cedar  Key  (the  Bettel'mi  Schlemmer,  Suioatiee  Hoiise)^ 
the  branch  terminus  of  the  railway,  is  a  town  of  some  1,869  inhabit- 
ants, pleasantly  situated  on  a  large  key  forming  one  of  a  cluster  of 
islands,  which  affords  excellent  facilities  for  bathing,  boating,  and 
fishing.  The  chief  commerce  of  the  place  is  in  cedar  and  pine  wood 
(used  in  the  making  of  lead-pencils),  turtles,  fish,  and  sponges,  the 
sponging-grounds  being  about  60  miles  distant.  The  climate  of  Cedar 
Key  is  nearly  similar  to  that  of  Jacksonville,  and  is  beneficial  to  rheu- 
matism as  well  as  consumption.  Sportsmen  will  find  unlimited  occupation 
for  both  rod  and  gun.  Eighteen  miles  W.  of  Cedar  Key,  the  Suicanee 
River^  navigable  to  Ellaville,  enters  the  Gulf;  and  the  Withlacoochee 
River ^  18  miles  S.  Steamers  ply  between  New  Orleans  and  Key  West, 
Tampa,  and  Manatee,  and  others  connect  it  with  the  country  on  the 
Suwanee  River.  A  steamer  sails  twice  a  week  for  Tarpon  Springs,  on 
the  Anclote  River.  The  pi^incipal  town  on  the  southern  extension  of 
the  road  toward  Tampa  is  Ocala,  whose  large  bearing  orange-groves, 
wide-spread  truck  farms,  cotton  plantations,  corn-fields,  and  other  agri- 
cultural industries,  make  it  an  important  commercial  center.  It  is 
also  the  center  of  great  phosphate  interests.  The  city  is  lighted  by 
electricity,  has  a  street-railway  system,  first-class  water-works,  fire 
protection,  and  paved  streets.. 

120.  Middle  Florida. 

That  portion  of  Florida  known  as  "  Middle  Florida  "  (in  the  midst 
of  which  Tallahassee  lies)  differs  from  the  rest  of  the  State  in  that  its 
surface  is  more  broken  and  undulating,  reaching  here  and  there  an  ele- 
vation of  from  300  to  400  ft.  The  hills  are  .singularly  graceful  in  out- 
line, and  the  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  producing  all  the  characteristic 
products  of  the  Southern  States,  including  tobacco  and  early  garden 
vegetables.  The  vegetation  is  less  tropical  in  character  than  that  of 
eastern  and  southern  Florida,  but  it  is  veiy  profuse  and  comprises  many 


\ 


Boute  120.]  MIDDLE   FLORIDA.  533 

evergreens.  Tallahassee  {JSfew  Leon,  St.  James),  the  capital  of  the 
State  and  count^^-seat  of  Leon  County,  is  situated  on  the  Florida  C.  & 
P.  R.  R.  (Western  Division),  165  miles  W.  of  Jacksonville  and  21  miles 
N.  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  beautifully  located  on  high  ground, 
and  is  regularly  laid  out  in  a  plot  a  mile  square,  with  broad  streets  and 
several  public  squares,  shaded  with  evergreens  and  oaks.  The  abun- 
dance and  variety  of  the  shrubs  and  flowers  give  it  the  appearance  of  a 
garden.  The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  of  brick.  The  public  build- 
ings are  the  Cajntol  (commenced  in  1826),  a  large  three-story  brick 
edifice,  with  pillared  entrances  opening  E.  and  W. ;  the  Court-House, 
a  substantial  two-story  brick  structure ;  and  the  West  Florida  Semi- 
nary, a  large  two-story  brick  building,  on  a  hill  commanding  a  view 
of  the  entire  city.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  Tallahassee  are 
Lake  lamonia.  Lake  Jackson  (17  miles  long),  and  Lake  Lafayette  (6 
miles  long).  During  the  winter  months  these  lakes  swarm  with  duck 
and  brant ;  and  to  the  angler  Lake  Jackson  is  well  stocked  with  bass 
and  bream.  Quail  are  also  very  abundant.  The  St.  Mark's  Branch  of 
the  Florida  C.  &  P.  R.  R.  runs  hence  to  Wakulla  (16  miles),  the  nearest 
station  to  the  celebrated  *  Wakulla  Spring,  which  is  reckoned 
among  the  chief  wonders  of  Florida.  It  is  an  immense  limestone 
basin,  106  ft.  deep,  and  with  waters  so  crystalline  clear  that  the  fish 
near  its  bottom  can  be  seen  as  plainly  as  though  they  were  in  the  air, 
and  so  copious  that  a  river  is  formed  at  the  very  start. 

Along  the  line  of  railway  on  which  Tallahassee  is  situated  (Florida 
Central  &  Peninsular  R.  R.)  there  are  several  towns  which  offer  great 
attractions  to  invalids,  tourists,  and  sportsmen.  Quincy  (24  miles 
W.  of  Tallahassee)  is  a  prosperous  village  of  681  inhabitants,  the 
county-seat  of  Gadsden  County.  This  place  has  several  noted  tobacco 
plantations  thousands  of  acres  in  extent.  Its  climatic  characteristics 
are  the  same  as  those  of  Tallahassee,  and  there  is  a  similar  abundance 
of  game  in  the  vicinity.  Board  may  be  had  at  the  Metropolitan  and  at 
private  boarding-houses.  M©iiticello  (33  miles  E.  of  Tallahassee)  is  an 
important  town  of  some  1,218  inhabitants,  and  the  terminus  of  a  branch 
road  4^  miles  in  length.  It  contains  Baptist,  Episcopalian,  Methodist, 
and  Presbyterian  churches,  several  schools,  and  a  weekly  newspaper. 
The  St.  Elmo  House  and  TJie  Oakley  are  good  houses,  and  board  may 
be  had  in  private  families.  In  the  vicinity  of  Monticello  is  Lake 
Miccosukie,  whose  banks  were,  according  to  tradition,  the  camping- 
ground  of  De  Soto,  and  the  field  of  a  bloody  battle  between  General 
Jackson  and  the  Miccosukie  Indians.  At  its  S.  end  the  lake  contracts 
to  a  creek  and  disappears  underground.  Near  Monticello  is  the  Lipona 
plantation,  where  Murat  resided  for  some  time  while  in  Florida.  The 
Florida  Central  &  Peninsular  R.  R.  terminates  at  River  Junction,  on 
the  Chattahoochee  River,  where  it  makes  connection  with  the  Pensa- 
cola  &  Atlantic  R.  R.  of  the  Louisville  &  Xashville  System  (see  Route 
121)  for  Pensacola,  Mobile,  and  other  points  W. 


5M  THE    GULF    COAST    AND    KEY    WEST.       [Route   121. 

121.  The  Gulf  Coast  and  Key  West. 

Much  the  larger  part  o:&  the  coast-line  of  Florida  is  washed  by  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  but  this  immense  stretch  of  sea-front  is  almost  inac- 
cessible on  account  of  shallow  soundings,  and  has  few  good  harbors. 
The  principal  place  in  this  part  of  the  State  is  Pensacola  {Escambia^ 
Merchafits''),  a  city  of  11, '750  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  N.  W.  side 
of  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  10  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
Its  commerce  is  extensive  and  its  lumber  business  important.  It  is 
the  western  terminus  of  the  Florida  bi-anch  of  the  Louisville  &  Nash- 
ville system,  which  brings  Pensacola  into  connection  with  the  gen- 
eral railway  system  of  the  country.  The  Pensacola  &  Perdido  R.  R. 
runs  in  9  miles  to  MiUvieio^  on  Perdido  Bay,  where  there  are  extensive 
lumbering  establishments.  The  principal  public  buildings  of  Pensacola 
are  a  Custom-House  and  several  churches.  The  remains  of  the  old 
.  Spanish  forts,  San  Miguel  and  St.  Bernard,  may  be  seen  in  rear  of  the 
city.  A  weekly  line  of  steamers  was  established  in  18*78  to  ply  between 
Pensacola  and  Tampa,  calling  at  Cedar  Key.  Appalachicola,  re- 
cently a  decadent  city  of  some  2, 727  inhabitants,  but  now  springing 
into  new  life,  is  situated  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  of  the  same  name 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  through  Appalachicola  Bay.  To  the  W.  of 
Appalachicola,  Carrabelle^  a  village  of  482  inhabitants,  with  a  good,  deep 
harbor,  promises  to  be  a  great  lumber  port.  It  is  connected  with  Co- 
lumbus, Georgia  (see  Route  122  6),  by  steamers  on  the  Appalachicola 
and  Chattahoochee  Rivers.  Cedar  Key  has  been  described  in  Route 
119.  Semi-weekly  steamers  run  from  Cedar  Key  to  Tampa,  Charlotte 
Harbor,  Manatee,  Key  West,  etc. 

Tampa  [Almeria,  Plant,  Tampa  Bay,  The  Inn),  the  first  note- 
worthy point  below  Cedar  Key,  is  situated  near  the  center  of  the  W. 
coast,  at  the  head  of  the  beautiful  Tampa  Bay  (formerly  Espiritu  Santo 
Bay).  The  bay  is  about  40  miles  long,  is  dotted  with  islands,  and  forms 
a  good  harbor.  Its  waters  swarm  with  fish  and  turtle,  and  there  is  an 
abundance  of  sea-fowl,  including  the  beautiful  flamingo.  Deer  swarm 
on  the  islands.  The  surrounding  country  is  sandy,  and  for  miles  along 
the  shore  there  is  a  luxuriant  tropical  vegetation.  Large  groves  of 
orange,  lemon,  and  pine  trees  are  everywhere  to  be  seen.  The  town 
contains  5,532  inhabitants,  and  is  probably  destined  to  become  one  of 
the  chief  health  resorts  of  Florida.  Tampa  is  now  directly  connected 
by  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsular  R.R.  and  Jacksonville,  Tampa  & 
Key  West  R.  R.  with  Jacksonville  and  Palatka,  and  by  South  Florida  R.  R. 
with  Sanford  and  Enterprise.  This  line  now  extends  to  Port  Tampa, 
a  distance  of  9  miles,  which  is  the  southern  deep-water  terminus  of  the 
Plant  system  of  railroad  and  steamship  lines.  The  South  Florida  R.  R., 
now  a  portion  of  the  Plant  system,  connects  at  Sanford  (see  Route 
116),  on  the  St.  John's  River,  with  steamboat  lines.  The  railroad 
runs  S.  40  miles,  to  Kissimee  City,  near  Kissimee  Lake,  a  place  which 
has  grown  into  importance  within  the  last  two  years.  The  route  is 
through  one  of  the  most  wild  and  picturesque  portions  of  the  State, 
where  the  greatest  abundance  of  fish  and  game  of  evei\v  description 


Route  121.']      THE    GULF    COAST    AND    KEY   WEST.  535 

attracts  the  sportsman  to  the  delights  of  camping  out.  At  Kissimee 
the  road  bends  to  the  W.,  and  reaches  Tampa  in  a  run  of  '75  miles, 
passing  en  route  near  several  beautiful  lakes — Lake  Maitland^  Lake 
Hamilton.,  Lake  Parker.,  and  Lake  Hancock.  Manatee  is  a  small  vil- 
lage situated  on  the  Manatee  River  about  8  miles  from  its  mouth. 
There  are  two  or  three  boarding-houses  here,  where  fair  accommoda- 
tions may  be  had  at  $2  a  day  or  ,^40  a  month.  Charlotte  Harbor  is 
about  25  miles  long  and  from  8  to  10  miles  wide,  and  is  sheltered 
from  the  sea  by  several  islands.  The  fisheries  in  and  around  the  har- 
bor are  very  valuable,  the  oysters  gathered  here  being  remarkably  fine 
and  abundant.  On  one  of  the  islands  in  Charlotte  Harbor  there  are  a 
number  of  Indian  shell-mounds,  from  one  of  which  some  curious  Indian 
relics  have  been  dug.  Opposite  is  Funta  Gordo,  the  southern  termi- 
nus of  the  Florida  Southern  Railway,  and  a  landing-place  of  the  Morgan 
Steamship  Line,  which  goes  thence  to  Key  West  and  Havana.  Punta 
Rassa  is  a  small  hamlet  near  the  mouth  of  the  Caloosahatchie  River, 
chiefly  noteworthy  as  the  point  where  the  Cuban  telegraph-line  lands 
and  as  a  XJ.  S.  Signal-Service  station.  The  thermometrical  observations 
recorded  here  are  interesting  as  indicating  the  climate  of  all  this  portion 
of  the  coast.  In  1874  the  range  was  as  follows  :  January,  highest  79°, 
lowest  42°;  FebruaiT,  highest  84°,  lowest  50°;  March,  highest  85°, 
lowest  55° ;  April,  highest  87°,  lowest  55° ;  May,  highest  90°,  lowest 
69° ;  June,  highest  91°,  lowest  70°  ;  July,  highest "^91°,  lowest  70° ;  Au- 
gust, highest  91°,  lowest  70°;  September,  highest  91°,  lowest  67°; 
October,  highest  85°,  lowest  64° ;  November,  highest  82°,  lowest  50°  ; 
December,  highest  80°,  lowest  49°. 

Key  West  [Russell  House).,  the  largest  city  of  Florida,  next  to 
Jacksonville,  is  situated  upon  an  island  of  the  same  name  off  the 
S.  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  and  occupies  the  important  post  of 
key  to  the  Gulf  passage.  The  island  is  7  miles  long  by  from  1  to  2 
miles  wide,  and  is  11  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  is  of  coral  formation,  and 
has  a  shallow  soil,  consisting  of  disintegrated  coral,  with  a  slight  ad- 
mixture of  decayed  vegetable  matter.  There  are  no  springs,  and  the 
inhabitants  are  dependent  on  rain  or  distillation  for  water.  The 
natural  growth  is  a  dense,  stunted  chaparral,  in  which  various  species 
of  cactus  are  a  prominent  feature.  Tropical  fruits  are  cultivated  to 
some  extent,  the  chief  varieties  being  cocoanuts,  bananas,  pineapples, 
guavas,  sapodillas,  and  a  few  oranges.  The  air  is  pure  and  the  climate 
healthy.  The  thermometer  seldom  rises  above  90°,  and  never  falls  to 
freezing-point,  rarely  standing  as  low  as  50°.  The  mean  temperature, 
as  ascertained  by  14  years'  observation,  is:  for  spring,  75*79°;  for 
summer,  82-51°;  for  autumn,  78-23°;  for  winter,  69-58°.  The  city 
has  a  population  of  18,058,  a  large  portion  of  whom  are  Cubans  and 
natives  of  the  Bahama  Islands.  They  are  a  hardy  and  adventurous 
race,  remarkable  for  their  skill  in  diving.  The  language  commonly 
spoken  is  Spanish,  or  a  patois  of  that  tongue.  The  streets  of  the 
town  are  broad,  and  for  the  most  pai^t  are  laid  out  at  right  angles  with 
each  other.  The  residences  are  shaded  with  tropical  trees,  and  en- 
bowered  in  perennial  flowers  and  shrubbery,  giving  the  place  a  very 


536  WASHINGTON   TO   NEW   ORLEANS.     [Route  122. 

picturesque  appearance.  Almost  the  entire  city  was  recently  destroyed 
by  fire.  Key  West  has  a  fine  harbor,  and,  being  the  key  to  the  best 
entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it  is  strongly  fortified.  The  principal 
work  of  defense  is  Fort  Taylor,  built  on  an  artificial  island  within 
the  main  entrance  to  the  harbor,  and  mounting  about  200  guns. 
Among  the  principal  industries  of  Key  West  are  turtling,  sponging, 
and  the  catching  of  mullet  and  other  fish  for  the  Cuban  market.  Up- 
ward of  30  vessels,  with  an  aggregate  of  250  men,  are  engaged  in 
wrecking  on  the  Florida  Reef,  and  the  island  profits  by  this  industry 
to  the  amount  of  upward  of  $200,000  annually.  The  manufacture  of 
cigars  employs  about  800  hands,  chiefly  Cubans,  and  more  than  25,000,- 
000  cigars  are  turned  out  yearly.  There  are  a  number  of  charming 
drives  on  the  island,  and  the  fishing  and  boating  are  unsurpassed. 

From  New  York,  Key  West  is  reached  via  steamer  to  Jacksonville,  and 
thence  via  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key  West  R.  R.  to  Tampa,  and  from 
Tampa  by  steamer  thrice  weekly  for  Key  West  and  Havana,  or  via  New 
York  and  Galveston  steamers,  leaving  Pier  20,  East  River,  every  Satur- 
day at  3  p.  M.  From  Baltimore  by  semi-monthly  steamers.  Key  West 
is  the  most  important  supply-station  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

^122.  Washington  to  New  Orleans. 

a.    Via  Piedmont  Air-Line^  Charlotte,  Atlanta,  and  Montgomery. 

The  first  section  of  this  route,  between  Washington  and  Danville, 
Ya.,  is  over  the  Yirginia  Midland  Div.  of  the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R., 
which  traverses  a  portion  of  Yirginia  full  of  memorials,  both  of  the 
Revolutionary  era  and  of  the  late  civil  war.  Leaving  Alexandria 
(1  miles),  which  has  been  described  in  Route  8,  the  trains  pass  amid 
the  scenes  of  the  earliest  struggles  of  the  war,  the  outposts  of  the 
opposing  armies  occupying  this  ground  for  a  large  part  of  the  time. 
Manassas  (34  miles)  was  the  scene  of  the  first  great  battle  of  the 
civil  war,  fought  July  21,  1861,  between  the  Confederates  under  Beau- 
regard and  the  Federals  under  McDowell,  in  which  the  latter  were 
routed;  and  also  of  another  battle,  fought  August  29  and  30,  1862, 
between  the  Confederates  vmder  Lee  and  the  Federals  under  Pope,  in 
which  the  latter  were  again  defeated.  The  battle-ground  of  the  "  first 
Manassas"  is  3  or  4  miles  from  the  station,  and  intersected  by  the 
Sudley,  Brentsville  &  Warrenton  Turnpike,  which  crosses  at  Stone 
Bridge.  The  battle-ground  of  the  "  second  Manassas "  was  nearly 
identical  with  the  first,  with,  however,  a  change  of  sides  by  the  com- 
batants. At  Manassas  the  Manassas  Branch  diverges  and  runs  in  63 
miles  to  Strashurg  ;  and  from  Warrenton  Junction  (48  miles)  a  branch 
road  runs  to  Warrenton.  At  Rappahannock  (58  miles)  the  train  crosses 
the  Rappahannock  River.  Culpeper  Court-House  (69  miles)  was 
an  important  military  point  during  the  war,  the  place  having  been  occu- 
pied and  reoccupied  time  after  time  by  both  armies,  between  whom 
numerous  engagements  occurred  in  the  fields  surrounding  the  village. 
Culpeper  County  was  famous  in  Revolutionary  times  for  its  company  of 
"  Culpeper  Minute-Men,"  in  which  Chief-Justice  Marshall  was  enrolled 


Route  122.]   WASHmGTOI^f  to  new  oeleans.  537 

and  fought,  and  whose  flag  bore  a  picture  of  a  coiled  rattlesnake  with 
the  motto,  "  Don't  tread  on  me  !  "  Of  this  body  of  men,  John  Randolph 
is  repoi'ted  to  have  said  that  "  they  were  summoned  in  a  minute,  armed 
in  a  minute,  marched  in  a  minute,  fought  in  a  minute,  and  vanquished 
in  a  minute."  Twelve  miles  beyond  Culpeper  the  train  crosses  the 
Rapidan  River,  which  was  the  line  of  defense  frequently  held  by  the 
Confederates  during  the  war,  and  soon  reaches  Charlottesville  (113 
miles),  a  busy  place  at  the  junction  with  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R,  R. 
{Parrotfs  Hotel,  Wrighfs  Hotel),  famous  as  the  seat  of  the  University  of 
Virginia  and  for  its  proximity  to  Monticello,  the  home  and  tomb  of  Thomas 
JefPerson.  It  is  an  attractive  and  well-built  town  of  5,591  inhabitants, 
situated  on  Moore's  Creek,  2  miles  above  its  entrance  into  Rivanna  River. 
The  *  University  of  Virginia  is  situated  1-|-  mile  W.  of  Charlottesville, 
is  built  on  moderately  elevated  ground,  and  foi"ms  a  striking  feature  in  a 
beautiful  landscape.  It  was  founded  in  1819,  and  its  organization,  plan 
of  government,  and  system  of  instruction  are  due  to  Thomas  Jefferson, 
who,  in  the  inscription  prepared  by  himself  for  his  tomb,  preferred  to  be 
remembered  as  the  "  author  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  and  of 
the  statute  of  Virginia  for  religious  freedom,  and  father  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Virginia."  *  Monticello,  once  the  home  and  now  the  burial- 
place  of  Jefferson,  is  about  4  miles  W.  of  Charlottesville.  It  stands 
upon  an  eminence,  with  many  aspen-trees  around  it,  and  commands  a 
view  of  the  Blue  Ridge  for  150  miles  on  one  side,  and,  on  the  other, 
one  of  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful  landscapes  in  the  world.  The 
remains  of  Jefferson  lie  in  a  small  family  cemetery  by  the  side  of 
the  winding  road  leading  to  Monticello.  Congress  appropriated  $5,000 
to  erect  a  suitable  monument  over  them,  in  place  of  the  ruined  granite 
obelisk  which  now  marks  the  spot.  Lynchburg  (173  miles ;  Lynch 
Home,  JSforvell-Arlington)  is  a  city  of  19,709  inhabitants,  which  derives 
its  importance  from  the  lines  of  railway  which  center  here,  and  the  ex- 
tent and  character  of  its  manufactures,  and  especially  from  its  large 
trade  in  tobacco,  which  is  the  chief  article  of  export.  It  is  situated  on 
the  S.  bank  of  James  River,  and  enjoys  an  inexhaustible  water-power. 
It  occupies  a  steep  acclivity,  rising  gradually  from  the  river-bank,  and 
breaking  away  into  numerous  hills,  whose  terraced  walks  and  ornamental 
dwellings  give  a  picturesque  and  romantic  appearance  to  the  city.  Lynch- 
burg contains  15  churches,  five  national  banks,  and  has  a  good  public- 
school  system.  It  has  several  iron-foundries,  rolling-mills,  and  flouring- 
mills.  The  city  was  founded  in  1786,  and  incorporated  in  1805.  About 
20  miles  in  the  background  rises  the  Blue  Ridge,  together  with  the  Peaks 
of  Otter,  which  are  in  full  view,  and  from  here  the  cars  can  be  taken  to 
Natural  Bridge.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Lynchburg  are  vast  fields  of  coal 
and  iron-ore,  and  the  celebrated  Botetourt  Iron-  Works  are  not  far  distant. 
From  Lynchburg  to  Danville  (66  miles)  a  number  of  streams  are 
crossed,  among  which  are  the  Otter  River,  Stanton  River,  Dry  Fork,  and 
Fall  Creek.  From  Danville  to  Charlotte  tlie  route  is  the  same  as  that 
described  in  Route  112  6.  At  Charlotte  the  Atlanta  &  Charlotte  Divis- 
ion of  the  "  Piedmont  Air-Line  "  is  taken.  This  road  runs  S.  W.  through 
South  Carolina  and  Georgia,  reaching  Atlanta  in  648  miles.     The  conn- 


538  WASHINGTON    TO    NEW    ORLEANS.     [lioute   122. 

tiy  traversed  is  rolling  and  hilly,  being  on  the  border  of  the  picturesque 
mountain-region  of  both  States.  Numerous  small  towns  are  passed  ew 
route^  but  most  of  them  are  mere  railroad-stations,  and  only  three  or 
four  worthy  of  notice.  The  first  of  these  is  King''s  Mountain  (33 
miles  from  Charlotte),  near  an  eminence  of  the  same  name  which 
was  the  scene  of  a  battle,  Oct.  7,  1780,  between  the  British  and  the 
patriot  forces,  in  which  the  former  were  defeated  and  their  entire  detach- 
ment captured.  Near  Coicpens  (66  miles)  is  the  memorable  Revolutionary 
hattle-field  of  the  Cov)pens^  situated  on  the  hill-range  called  the  Thickety 
Mountain.  The  battle  was  fought  Jan.  17,  1781,  and  resulted  in  the 
defeat  of  the  British  under  Tarleton.  In  the  olden  time  the  cattle  were 
allowed  to  graze  on  the  scene  of  the  conflict — whence  the  name.  Nine 
miles  beyond  Cowpens  is  Spartanburg  [Merchants'  Hotel,  Windsor 
Hotel),  the  most  important  town  in  this  portion  of  South  Carolina,  with 
a  population  of  5,544.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  region 
famous  for  its  gold  and  iron,  and  is  much  resorted  to  in  summer  by 
people  from  Charleston  and  the  lowlands.  Near  Spartanburg  are  the 
Glenn  Springs,  whose  waters  are  strongly  impregnated  with  sulphur, 
and  recommended  for  rheumatism  and  dyspepsia ;  and  the  Limestone 
Spying,  a  chalybeate  possessing  valuable  tonic  properties.  A  branch  of 
the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R.  connects  Spartanburg  with  Columbia. 
Thirty-two  miles  beyond  Spartanburg  is  Greenville  '{Exchange  Ho- 
tel, Mansion  House),  a  city  of  8,607  inhabitants,  beautifully  situated  on 
Reedy  River,  near  its  source,  and  at  the  foot  of  Saluda  Mountain.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  the  up-country  of  the  State,  lying 
as  it  does  at  the  threshold  of  the  chief  beauties  of  the  mountain  region 
of  South  Carolina  (see  Route  131).  The  Columbia  &  Greenville  Div. 
runs  S.  E.  in  143  miles  to  Columbia.  At  Seneca  City  (148  miles  from 
Charlotte)  connection  is  made  with  the  Columbia  &  Greenville  Div.,  and, 
a  short  distance  beyond,  the  road  crosses  the  Savannah  River  and  enters 
the  State  of  Georgia.  Toccoa  (176  miles)  and  Mount  Airy  (189  miles) 
are  convenient  entrances  to  the  mountain  region  of  Georgia  (see  Route 
131).  From  Lnla  (203  miles)  a  bi'anch  runs  to  the  collegiate  town  of 
Athene  (39  miles),  and  to  Macon  (144  miles).  The  principal  place  on  this 
portion  of  the  line  is  Gainesville  (216  miles,  Arlington  Hovse),  a  town 
of  3,202  inhabitants,  which  has  grown  wonderfully  since  the  completion 
of  the  railway.  One  mile  from  Gainesville  (reached  by  horse-cars)  is 
the  Gower  Springs  Hotel,  and  2  miles  E.  are  the  JVe-io  Holla7id  Springs, 
a  favorite  resort.  The  Porter  Springs  are  28  miles  N.,  attractively  situ- 
ated among  the  mountains.  Just  before  reaching  Atlanta,  Stone  Mount- 
ain comes  into  view  far  away  on  the  left,  and  shortly  afterward  the  train 
crosses  Peach-Tree  Creek,  the  scene  (lower  down)  of  the  bloody  conflict  of 
July  22,  1864.  Atlanta  {Kimball  House,  Markham.,  National,  Hotel 
Weinrneister)  is  the  capital  of  Georgia,  and  the  most  important  commer- 
cial city  in  the  State,  though  Savannah  surpasses  it  in  the  cotton-trade. 
The  population  is  65,533.  Atlanta  ranks  high  as  a  manufacturing  city, 
in  proportion  to  its  population.  This  is  the  outgrowth  of  the  rail- 
road-system centering  there,  and  in  its  activity  and  enterprise  reminds 
one  of  a  Northern  rather  than  of  a  Southern  eitv.     The  railroads  are 


Boute  122.]     WASHINGTON   TO    NEW    ORLEANS.  639 

the  East  Tenne.-see,  Virginia  &  Georgia  R.  R.,  Georgia  Pacific  Rail- 
way, Georgia  R.  R.,  Atlanta  &  West  Point  R.  R.,  Atlanta  &  Florida 
R.  R.,  Western  &  Atlantic  R.  R.,  Central  R.  R.,  Richmond  &  Dan- 
ville R.  R.,  and  Georgia,  Carolina  &  Northern  R.  R.,  connecting  At- 
lanta with  every  part  of  the  country.  Three  new  railroads  are  now 
being  constructed  with  Atlanta  as  terminus.  The  city  is  picturesquely 
situated  upon  hilly  ground  1,100  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  laid  out 
in  the  form  of  a  circle  3-|^  miles  in  diameter,  the  Union  Passenger 
Station  occupying  the  center.  The  most  noteworthy  buildings  are 
the  City  Hall  (beautifully  located),  (South),  the  Union  Passenger  Bepot^ 
the  Opera-House^  the  U.  S.  Cusiom-House,  built  at  a  cost  of  $350,000, 
the  Count y  Court-House^  and  the  Chamber  of  Commerce.  A  State 
Capitol  has  recently  been  finished,  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000,  and  contains 
statues  of  Senator  Benjamin  H.  Hill  and  Henry  W.  Grady.  Among 
the  benevolent  institutions  worthy  of  note  are  the  Soldiers''  Home 
for  Confederate  Veterans  and  the  Hebrew  Orphans'  Home.  The  old 
Kimball  House,  which  was  destroyed  by  fire,  is  replaced  by  a  fire- 
proof edifice  7  stories  high,  built  and  equipped  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000. 
The  State  Library  contains  about  16,000  volumes;  the  Young  Men^s 
Library  about  15,000.  A  ride  out  Peachtree  St.  on  the  electric-cars 
shows  one  of  the  finest  residence  streets  in  the  South,  tilled  with  hand- 
some modern  dwellings.  The  chief  interest  which  Atlanta  possesses 
for  the  tourist  is  the  memorable  siege  with  which  it  is  associated.  Its 
position  made  it  of  vital  importance  to  the  Southern  cause,  and  with 
its  capture  by  Gen.  Sherman,  Sept.  2,  1864,  the  doom  of  the  Confed- 
eracy was  sealed.  Before  abandoning  the  city,  to  fall  back  upon  Macon, 
Gen.  Hood  set  fire  to  all  machinery,  stores,  and  munitions  of  war  which  he 
could  not  remove,  and  Gen.  Sherman,  on  leaving  it  a  month  later,  destroyed 
the  business  part  of  the  city.  Atlanta  became  the  State  capital  in  1868. 
From  Atlanta  the  route  is  via  the  Atlanta  &  West  Point  R.  R.,  which 
runs  S.  W.  through  a  prosperous  agricultural  region,  and  in  87  miles 
reaches  West  Point,  on  the  Alabama  border.  The  principal  towns  en 
route  are  Nevman  (39  miles),  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Central 
R.  R.  of  Georgia,  and  La  Grange  (71  miles),  which  is  noted  throughout 
the  State  for  the  excellence  of  its  educational  establishments.  West 
Point  is  a  thriving  town  of  1,254  inhabitants  on  both  sides  of  the  Chat- 
tahoochee River,  with  an  active  trade  in  cotton,  and  several  cotton-facto- 
ries. At  West  Point  the  Western  R.  R.  of  Alabama  is  taken,  which 
runs  W^.  in  88  miles  to  Montgomery.  Opelika  (22  miles)  is  a  flourish- 
ing village  at  the  junction  of  the  branch  line  from  Columbus,  Geor- 
gia, 29  miles  distant  (see  Sub-Route  b).  Montgomery  {Exchange., 
Houston.^  Windsor)  is  the  capital  of  Alabama,  and  the  second  city  of 
the  State  in  size  and  commercial  importance.  It  is  situated  on  a  high 
bluff  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Alabama  River,  was  founded  in  1817, 
named  after  Gen.  Richard  Montgomery,  who  fell  at  Quebec,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  21,833,  and  was  the  first  capital  of  the  Confederate  States 
(from  February  to  May,  1861).  The  principal  public  building  is  the 
U.  S.  Coiirt-House  and  Post-Office,  which  cost  $125,000.  The  ^State- 
House.,  now  enlarged,  is  an  imposing  structure.     It  is  situated  on  Capi- 


540  WASHINGTON   TO    NEW    ORLEANS.     [Roilte   122. 

tol  Hill,  at  the  head  of  Dexter  Avenue,  and  from  its  dome  there  is  a 
fine  view.  Other  noteworthy  buildings  are  the  City  Hall^  a  fine  edifice 
containing  a  market  and  rooms  for  the  fire  department,  the  Court-House^ 
several  of  the  churches,  and  the  two  theatres.  The  Alabama  River  is 
navigable  to  Montgomery  by  steamers  at  all  seasons,  and  5  important 
railroads  converge  here.  From  Montgomery  to  Mobile  the  route  is  via 
the  Mobile  &  Montgomery  Div.  of  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R.,  which 
extends  S.  W.  through  one  of  the  most  productive  portions  of  Alabama 
(distance,  180  miles).  The  most  important  town  en  route  is  Greenville 
(44  miles  from  Montgomery),  with  a  population  of  2,806.  Mobile 
(see  Sub-Route  h).  The  total  distance  from  Washington  to  Mobile  by 
this  route  is  1,002  miles. 

h.  Via  Augusta^  Macon,  and  Columbus. 
Between  Washington  and  Augusta  (571  miles)  the  tourist  may  take 
either  of  the  routes  described  in  Route  113.  In  Route  113  a  the  Wil- 
mington, Columbia  &  Augusta  R.  R.  is  followed  to  Columbia,  whence 
the  route  is  the  same  as  in  h.  From  Augusta  to  Macon  there  are  two 
routes :  the  Georgia  R.  R.  and  the  Central  R.  R.  of  Georgia.  The  prin- 
cipal towns  on  the  Georgia  R.  R.  are  Camak  (4Y  miles  from  Augusta), 
whence  a  branch  line  runs  in  124  miles  to  Atlanta  (see  Sub-Route  «); 
Warrenton  (51  miles)  and  Sparta  (71  miles),  both  pretty  towns ;  and 
Milledgeville  (93  miles),  the  former  capital  of  the  State,  and  the  site  of 
the  State  Penitentiary  and  of  the  Georgia  Asylum  for  the  Insane.  The 
most  important  places  on  the  Central  R.  R.  of  Georgia  are  Mlllen  (53 
miles  from  Augusta),  where  the  road  forks,  one  branch  going  to  Savan- 
nah (see  Route  113  6);  and  Gordon  (144  miles),  whence  a  branch  line 
runs  to  Milledgeville  (see  above)  and  Eatonton,  a  pleasant  town  with 
excellent  schools.  The  former  route  is  the  shorter,  but,  owing  to 
an  advantage  in  connections,  the  latter  is  the  route  usually  followed 
by  through  travel.  —  Macon  {Brown  House,  Commercial,  Hotel  La- 
nier) is  one  of  the  most  populous  and  prosperous  cities  of  Georgia, 
and  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Ocmulgee  River,  which  is  here 
crossed  by  a  bridge.  It  contains  22,746  inhabitants,  is  the  site  of  sev- 
eral important  iron-foundries,  machine-shops,  carriage  and  cotton  manu- 
factures, and  flour-mills,  is  regularly  laid  out  and  well  built,  and  is 
embowered  in  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  *  Central  City  Park,  combin- 
ing pleasure  and  fair  grounds,  possesses  great  beauty ;  and  *  Rose  Hill 
Cemetery,  comprising  50  acres  on  the  Ocmulgee,  ^  mile  below  the  city, 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  burial-grounds  in  the  United  States.  The 
Court-House  and  the  U.  8.  Building  are  fine  structures.  Another  hand- 
some edifice  is  the  Academy  of  Music.  In  the  Park  on  Mulbei'ry  St. 
are  a  monument  to  the  Confederate  dead,  erected  in  1879,  and  a  bronze 
statue  to  William  M.  Wadley.  Macon  is  the  seat  of  the  State  Acade- 
my/or the  Blind,  which  occupies  an  imposing  brick  edifice  four  stories 
high,  and  has  a  library  of  2,000  volumes.  Mercer  University  (Baptist) 
is  a  prosperous  institution,  with  a  library  of  9,000  volumes;  and  the 
Wesleyan  Femcde  College,  rebuilt  and  endowed  by  George  I.  Seney,  of 
New  York,  in  1881,  with  a  fund  of  $125,000,  has  a  wide  reputation. 


Route   122.]     WASHINGTON    TO    NEAV    ORLEANS.  541 

It  conferred  the  first  degree  on  women  in  1840.  The  Pio  Nono  Col- 
lege is  Roman  Catholic.  A  belt-line  of  electric-cars  makes  a  circuit  of 
the  city  and  extends  to  Vi?ieville,  a  suburban  village  about  a  mile  from 
the  city.  It  is  the  center  of  the  Centi-al  R.  R.  of  Georgia  system,  which 
has  branches  to  Atlanta  on  the  N.,  to  Savannah  on  the  E.,  and  to  Co- 
lumbia and  other  points  on  the  S.  and  W.  Several  other  railroads  pass 
through  Macon,  and  secure  it  an  extensive  trade. 

From  Macon  the  route  is  via  the  Southwestern  Div.  of  the  Central 
R.  R.  of  Georgia,  which  runs  in  100  miles  to  Columbus,  through  a  level, 
sandy,  and  unpicturesque  region.  The  most  important  place  on  the  line 
is  Fo7't  Valley  (29  miles  from  Macon),  an  attractive  village  of  1,752  in- 
habitants, at  the  junction  of  two  important  branches  of  this  division. 
Columbus  {Central  Hotel^  Rankin  House)  is  situated  on  the  E.  bank 
of  the  Chattahoochee  River,  and  is  the  fifth  city  of  Georgia  in  popula- 
tion (I'ZjSOS),  and  the  chief  manufacturing  center  in  the  South.  Oppo- 
site the  city  the  river  rushes  over  huge,  rugged  rocks,  forming  a  water- 
power  which  has  been  greatly  improved  by  a  dam  500  ft.  long,  and 
which  is  extensively  utilized  in  manufactures.  There  are  eight  cotton- 
factories,  five  run  by  water-power  and  three  by  steam ;  one  of  the  com- 
panies (the  Eagle  and  Phoenix  Co.)  is  the  largest  established  in  the  South. 
There  are  also  14  flour  and  grist  mills,  and  machine-shops,  iron-foundries, 
saw-mills,  planing-mills,  etc.  The  Chattahoochee  is  navigable  from  Co- 
lumbus to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  during  eight  months  of  the  year ;  and  from 
the  end  of  October  to  the  1st  of  July  its  waters  are  traversed  by  numer- 
ous steamboats  laden  with  cotton.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  with 
streets  from  99  to  165  ft.  wide,  and  residences  surrounded  by  ample  gar- 
dens. The  most  noteworthy  buildings  are  the  Court-House^  the  Presby- 
terian. Church.,  Temperance  Hall^  the  Springer  Opera-House^  the  Georgia 
Home  Insurance  Co..,  the  Bank  of  Colimihus^  and  the  Garrard  Building. 
Four  handsome  bridges  connect  Columbus  with  its  suburbs  in  Alabama. 
From  Columbus  the  route  is  via  the  Columbus  h  Western  Div.  of  the 
Central  R.  R.  of  Georgia,  which  connects  with  the  main  line  at  Opjelika 
(29  miles).  Beyond  Opelika  the  route  is  the  same  as  that  described  pre- 
viously (see  page  5^9).  By  the  present  route  the  total  distance  from 
Richmond  to  Mobile  is  1,0(36  miles. 

Mobile. 

Hotels,  etc.— The  Battle  House^  cor.  Royal  and  St.  Francis  Sts.,  the  Hotel 
Royal,  and  the  Farley  House  are  the  leading  hotels.  Street-cars  traverse  the 
city,  and  make  all  points  easily  accessible.  Besides  the  routes  described  above, 
Mobile  is  reached  from  the  North  by  Route  122,  and  from  the  West  by  Louis- 
ville &  Nashville  R.  R.  (Route  126)  and  by  Mobile  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  and  by  the 
Mobile  &  Birmingham  Railway,  the  southern  branch  of  the  East  Tennessee, 
Virginia,  and  Georgia  system.  The  Plant  S.  S.  Line  makes  direct  connection 
with  the  Mobile  &  Ohio'  R.  R.,  and  steamers  leave  four  times  a  week  for  Key 
West  and  Havana.  The  route  from  Mobile  to  New  Orleans  is  described  in 
the  present  route.  Steamers  ply  between  Mobile  and  the  interior  by  way  of 
the  Alabama,  Tombigbee,  and  other  rivers. 

Mobile,  the  largest  city  and  only  seaport  of  Alabama,  is  situated  on 
the  W.  side  of  Mobile  River,  immediately  above  its  entrance  into  Mobile 
Bay,  30  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  lat.  30°  42'  N,  and  Ion.  88° 


542  WASHINGTON    TO    NEW    ORLEANS,     [Route   122. 

W.  Its  site  is  a  sandy  plain,  rising  as  it  recedes  from  the  river,  and 
bounded,  at  a  distance  of  a  few  miles,  by  high  and  beautiful  hills.  The 
corporate  limits  of  the  city  extend  6  miles  N.  and  S.  and  2  or  3  miles 
W.  from  the  river.  The  thickly  inhabited  part  extends  for  about  a 
mile  along  the  river,  two  miles  and  a  half  back  toward  the  hills.  It 
is  laid  out  vvith  considerable  regularity,  and  the  streets  are  generally 
well  paved  and  delightfully  shaded.  Fort  Morgan  (formerly  Fort  Bow- 
yer),  on  Mobile  Point,  and  Fort  Gaines,  on  the  E.  extremity  of  Dauphine 
Island,  command  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  which  is  about  30  miles  be- 
low the  city.  On  Mobile  Point  is  also  a  hghthouse,  the  lantern  of  which 
is  55  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  remains  of  several  batteries  erected 
during  the  war  may  be  seen  in  and  about  the  harbor ;  and  on  the  E.  side 
of  Tensas  River  are  the  ruins  of  Spanish  Fort  and  Fo7't  Blakely. 

Mobile  was  the  original  seat  of  French  colonization  in  the  Southwest,  and 
for  many  years  the  capital  of  the  colony  of  Louisiana.  Historians  diifer  as  to 
the  precise  date  of  its  foundation,  though  it  is  known  that  a  settlement  was 
made  a  little  above  the  present  site  of  the  city  at  least  as  early  as  1702.  Many 
of  the  first  settlers  were  Canadians.  In  1723  the  seat  of  the  colonial  govern- 
ment was  transferred  to  New  Orleans.  In  1763,  Mobile,  with  all  that  portion  of 
Louisiana  lying  E.  of  the  Mississippi  and  N.  of  Bayou  Tberville,  Lakes  Maure- 
pas  and  Pontchartraiu,  passed  into  the  possession  of  Great  Britain.  In  1780 
England  surrendered  it  to  Spain,  and  that  Government  made  it  over  to  the 
United  States  in  1813.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1819,  the  population 
being  then  about  800.  Mobile  was  one  of  the  last  points  in  the  Confederacy  oc- 
cupied by  the  Union  forces  during  the  late  war,  and  was  not  finally  reduced  until 
April  12,  1865,  three  days  after  the  surrender  of  General  Lee.  On  Augusts,  1864, 
the  harbor  fortifications  were  attacked  by  Admiral  Farragut,  who  ran  his  fleet 
past  the  forts,  and  closed  the  harbor  against  blockade-runners,  though  he  failed 
to  capture  the  city  itself.  The  trade  of  Mobile  has  of  late  been  much  improved  by 
the  Government  work  of  deepening  the  ship-channel  from  deep  water  in  Mobile 
River  to  deep  water  in  the  lower  bay.  The  Government's  present  project  is  to 
give  this  channel  a  depth  of  2H  ft.  Vessels  drawing  18  ft.  load  and  discharge  at 
the  wharves.  The  chief  business  is  the  receipt  and  shipment  of  cotton,  coal,  and 
lumber,  and  naval  stores.  The  manufactures  include  carriages,  furniture,  cy- 
press shingles,  staves,  barrels,  rope  and  twine,  boxes,  pressed  brick,  street  cars, 
cigars,  leather  and  saddlery,  cotton-seed  oil,  foundries  and  machine-shops. 
The  population  in  1890  Avas  31,076. 

Government  St.  is  the  finest  avenue  and  favorite  promenade  of  the 
city.  Bienville  Park,  between  Dauphin  and  St.  Francis  Sts.,  is  adorned 
with  live-oaks  and  other  shade-trees,  also  a  handsome  fountain.  The 
^Custom-Housej  which  also  contains  the  Post-Office,  at  the  cor.  of 
Royal  and  St.  Francis  Sts.,  is  the  finest,  largest,  and  most  costly  public 
edifice  in  the  city.  It  is  built  of  granite,  and  cost  $250,000.  The  New 
Exchange,  occupied  by  the  Cotton  Exchange  Association  and  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  is  at  the  corner  of  St.  Francis  and  Commerce  Sts.  The 
Theatre  and  Market-House,  with  rooms  in  the  upper  story  for  the  muni- 
cipal officers,  are  in  Royal  St.  The  Battle  House  presents  an  imposing 
facade  of  painted  brick,  opposite  the  Custom-House.  The  Court-House, 
built  in  1888,  cor.  Government  and  Royal  Sts.,  and  Temperance  Hall, 
cor.  St.  Michael  and  St.  Joseph  Sts.,  are  conspicuous  buildings.  The 
large  public  school,  *  Barton  Academy,  in  Government  St.,  is  a 
handsome  building  surmounted  by  a  dome.  Of  the  church  edifices  the 
most  notable  are  the  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception  (Roman 
Catholic),  which  has  one  of  the  most  impressive  interiors  that  can  be 


Route  124.']     WASHINGTON    TO   NEW    OELEANS.  543 

seen  in  the  South,  in  Claiborne  St.,  between  Dauphin  and  Conti ;  Christ 
Church  (Episcopal),  cor.  Church  and  St.  Emanuel  Sts. ;  Trinity  (Episco- 
pal), with  massive  campanile ;  the  St.  Francis  Street  Baptist  Church, 
in  St.  Francis,  between  Claiborne  and  Franklin  Sts. ;  the  First  Presby- 
terian^ cor.  Government  and  Jackson  Sts. ;  and  the  Jennsh  Synagogue, 
in  Jackson  St.,  between  St.  Michael  and  St.  Louis  Sts.  The  principal 
charitable  institutions  are  the  City  Hospital,  the  United  States  Marine 
HospAtal,  and  four  Orphan  Asylums.  The  Medical  College  is  prosperous. 
Spring  Hill  is  a  pleasant  suburban  retreat  6  miles  W.  of  the  city 
(reached  by  the  St.  Francis  St.  steam-cars).  The  College  of  St.  Joseph,  a 
Jesuit  institution,  is  located  here.  It  was  founded  in  1832  by  Bishop 
Portier,  and  has  a  fine  building  375  ft.  long  surmounted  by  a  tower  from 
which  noble  views  may  be  obtained.  The  college  has  a  library  of  8,000 
volumes  and  a  valuable  collection  of  scientific  apparatus.  A  statue  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  brought  from  Toulouse,  France,  stands  in  rear  of  the  build- 
ing. The  Gulf  She  11- Road  affords  a  delightful  drive,  7  miles  in 
length,  along  the  shore  of  the  bay.  Arlingto7i  and  Frascati  are  resorts 
on  the  bay  shore,  and  are  reached  by  the  drive  or  by  street-ears. 

123.  Eichmond  to  New  Orleans  via  Mobile. 

Between  Richmond  and  Mobile  either  of  the  routes  described  in 
Route  122  may  be  taken.  From  Mobile  the  route  is  via  the  Louisville 
&  Nashville  R.  R.  (distance,  141  miles).  There  are  no  important  sta- 
tions on  the  line,  but  the  journey  is  one  of  great  interest  from  a  scenic 
point  of  view.  "  Nothing  in  lowland  scenery,"  says  Mr.  Edward  King, 
in  his  "  Great  South,"  "  could  be  more  picturesque  than  that  afforded 
by  the  ride  from  New  Orleans  to  Mobile,  over  the  Mobile  &  Texas 
R.  R.  [the  name  of  this  road  before  consolidation],  which  stretches 
along  the  Gulf  line  of  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  and  Alabama.  It  runs 
through  savannas  and  brakes,  skirts  the  borders  of  grand  forests,  offers 
here  a  glimpse  of  a  lake  and  there  a  peep  at  the  blue  waters  of  the  noble 
Gulf ;  now  clambers  over  miles  of  trestle-work,  as  at  Bay  St.  Louis, 
Biloxi  (the  old  fortress  of  Bienville's  time)  and  Pascagoula ;  and  now 
plunges  into  the  very  heart  of  pine- woods,  where  the  foresters  are  busily 
building  little  towns  and  felling  giant  trees,  and  where  the  revivifying 
aroma  of  the  forest  is  mingled  with  the  fresh  breezes  from  the  sea." 
(See  "The  Gulf  Coast"  in  Hand-Book  of  Winter  Resorts.) 

124.  Washington  to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans. 

a.    Via  Great  SoutJiern  Mail. 

The  first  section  of  this  route,  so  historic  in  its  importance  from 
Washington  to  Lynchburg,  is  the  same  as  that  described  in  122  a. 

Beyond  Lynchburg  the  route  is  via  the  Norfolk  &  Western  R.  R.  This 
road  passes  through  southwestern  Virginia,  famous  for  its  wild  scenery 
and  inexhaustible  mineral  resources.  It  intersects  or  passes  between  the 
parallel  ramparts  of  the  great  range  of  the  Alleghanies,  the  backbone 
of  the  Atlantic  slope  of  the  continent,  as  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  the 
backbone  of  the  Pacific  slope ;  and  scenes  full  of  picturesque  grandeur  meet 


64:4:  WASHINGTON   TO   NEW    ORLEANS.     [Eoute  12^. 

the  eye  of  the  traveler  on  every  side.  At  Liberty  (25  miles  from  Lynch- 
burg, 203  miles  from  Washington)  the  views  are  very  fine.  The  Blue 
Ridge  runs  across  the  N.  W.  horizon,  and  attains  its  greatest  height  in 
the  famous  *  Peaks  ©f  Otter,  about  Y  miles  distant.  These  peaks 
are  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the  range,  and,  with  the  exception  of  some 
peaks  in  North  Carolina,  are  the  loftiest  id  the  Southern  States  (4,200  ft. 
above  the  plain,  5,307  above  the  sea).  The  S.  peak  is  easily  ascended, 
and  affords  a  magnificent  view.  At  Bo'iisacFs  (225  miles  from  Wash- 
ington, 47  miles  from  Lynchburg)  are  the  much-frequented  Coyner\s 
Springs  (see  Route  130).  From  Roanoke  direct  rail  connection  can  be 
made  to  the  wonderful  Natural  Bridge  (see  for  other  routes  Sub-Route  h). 

The  Spring  region  is  then  passed  through,  which  is  described  in  Route 
130.  Bristol  (382  miles;  Hotel  Fairmont)  is  a  lively  town  of  some 
6,226  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  boundary  line  between  Virginia  and 
Tennessee.  Here  the  train  takes  the  track  of  the  E.  Tennessee,  Vir- 
ginia &  Georgia  R.  R.,  which  runs  S.  W.  through  a  highly  picturesque 
portion  of  East  Tennessee.  Greenville  (438  miles)  is  a  pretty  place 
with  1,779  inhabitants,  and  seat  of  a  well-known  college.  Knoxville 
(512  miles;  Vendome  Palace)  is  a  city  of  22,535  inhabitants,  situated  at 
the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  Holston  River,  4  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  French  Broad.  It  is  built  on  a  healthy  and  elevated 
site,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  river  and  surrounding  coun- 
try. It  is  the  principal  commercial  place  in  E.  Tennessee,  and  has  some 
important  manufactures.  The  East  Tennesaee  University^  with  which 
is  connected  the  State  Agricultural  College,  is  located  here;  also  the 
Knoxville  University  (Methodist)  and  the  Freedmenh  Normal  School 
(Presbyterian).  The  State  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  a 
prominent  edifice. 

At  Cleveland  (594  miles)  the  road  branches,  one  line  running  W. 
in  30  miles  to  Chattanooga  (see  Sub-Route  e),  while  the  present 
route  continues  S.  W.  to  Rome  (662  miles).  Dalton  is  a  mountain- 
environed  town  of  3,046  inhabitants,  at  the  junction  of  thi-ee  rail- 
ways. It  was  the  initial  point  of  the  famous  campaign  of  1864,  was 
strongly  fortified  by  Gen.  J.  E.  Johnston,  but  the  position  was  flanked 
by  Gen.  W.  T.  Sherman,  and  consequently  evacuated  by  the  Confed- 
erates on  May  12,  1864.  Rome  {Central  Hotel)^  the  most  important 
town  of  Northern  Georgia,  is  situated  on  Coosa  River,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  6,957.  It  has  a  growing  mercantile  and  manufacturing  busi- 
ness, ice,  cotton,  and  oil  factories,  and  its  agricultural  interests  are  con- 
siderable. 

The  Alabama  Division  of  the  E.  Temi..  V.  &  G.  i?.  S.  connects  with  the 
main  branch  at  Rome,  and  affords  another  through  route  to  Mobile  and  New 
Orleans.  It  extends  S.  W.  through  Georgia  and  Alabama,  and  the  distance 
from  Rome  to  Selma  is  196  miles.  The  principal  places  on  the  line  are  Cave 
Spring,  the  seat  of  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  ;  Talladega,  the 
seat  of  the  Alabama  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb;  Shelby  Springs, 
with  valuable  mineral  waters  ;  Calera,  at  the  crossing  of  the  Louisville  &  Nash- 
ville System  ;  and  Selma  {St.  James  Hotel),  a  busy  manufacturing  city  of  7,622 
inhabitants,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Alabama  River,  95  miles  below  Montgom- 
ery. From  Selma  the  traveler  can  reach  New  Orleans  via  Mobile  or  via  Me= 
ridian,  Miss. 


Route   121^]     WASHINGTON    TO    NEW    ORLEANS.  545 

From  Dalton  the  I'oute  we  are  describing  is  via  Western  &  Atlantic 
K.  R.,  which  traverses  a  region  interesting  as  the  arena  of  one  of  the 
most  obstinate  struggles  of  the  civil  war — the  campaign,  namely,  be- 
tween Sherman  and  Johnston,  which  culminated  in  the  fall  of  Atlanta 
(see  Route  122  a).  This  campaign  began  in  the  vicinity  of  Chattanooga, 
and  extended  directly  down  the  line  of  the  railway  to  Atlanta.  Memen- 
tos of  the  struggle  may  be  seen  by  the  traveler  on  the  crests  of  nearly 
every  one  of  the  huge  ranges  of  hills  which  mark  the  topography  of  the 
country,  in  the  shape  of  massive  breastworks  and  battlements,  which 
time  and  the  elements  are  fast  oblitei'ating.  At  Dalton^  as  we  have 
already  said,  occurred  the  initial  struggle  of  the  campaign.  Remca  (15 
miles  beyond  Dalton)  was  the  place  of  the  next  stand  made  by  John- 
ston, and  was  the  scene  of  severe  and  indecisive  fighting  between  the 
two  armies ;  it  was  finally  captured  by  a  flank  march  on  the  part  of 
Sherman.  Retreating  from  this  point,  Johnston  took  a  position  at 
AUatoona  (44  miles  below),  which  was  considered  impregnable ;  but  it 
too  was  successfully  flanked,  and  the  Confederates  forced  back  to  the 
Chattahoochee  and  Atlanta.  On  the  line  is  Carter sville  (52  miles  from 
Dalton),  which  has  a  population  of  3,1 71.  Marietta  (20  miles  from 
Atlanta)  is  the  most  elevated  point  on  the  line,  has  a  delightful  climate 
in  summer,  and  is  then  much  resorted  to.  It  contains  some  3,384  in- 
habitants, and  is  the  site  of  a  National  Cemetery,  in  which  are  buried 
10,000  Federal  soldiers.  Kennesaw  Mountaiyi  (2^  miles  distant)  over- 
looks a  vast  extent  of  country,  and  played  an  important  part  in  the 
campaign  in  this  vicinity.  Atlanta  (721  miles  from  W^ashington)  is 
described  in  Route  122  a.  From  Atlanta  the  route  is  the  same  as  in 
the  above-mentioned  route.  (The  total  distance  from  W^ashington  to 
Mobile  by  this  route  is  1,076  miles  ;  to  New  Orleans,  1,217  miles.) 

h.  Via  Shenandoah  and  Roanoke  Div.  of  the  Norfolk  t&  Wester7i  R.  R. 
This  route,  a  little  longer  than  the  preceding,  is  via  the  Baltimore  & 
Ohio  R.  R.  to  Shenandoah  Junction  (61  miles) ;  thence  ida  the  Shen- 
andoah and  Roanoke  Div.  of  the  Norfolk  &  W^estern  R.  R.  to  Roan- 
oke (217  miles),  an  industrial  center  of  16,159  inhabitants;  thence 
as  in  Sub-Route  a.  The  only  important  point  on  the  Baltimore  & 
Ohio  R.  R.  before  reaching  the  junction  is  Harper's  Ferry  (55 
miles),  which  has  been  described  (see  Route  70).  At  Shenandoah 
Junction  we  take  the  old  Shenandoah  Valley  road.  Charlestown,  6 
miles  from  Shenandoah  Junction  and  12  miles  S.  W.  from  Harper's 
Ferry,  is  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  John  Brown's  execution,  Decem- 
ber 2,  1859.  The  road  passes  through  a  very  beautiful  and  fertile 
region,  though  the  lowns  are  small  and  not  specially  notable  till  we 
reach  Luray  (127  miles),  remarkable  for  its  great  subterranean  cavern. 
There  is  a  spacious  hotel  here,  known  as  the  Luray  Inn.  The  caverns 
are  situated  about  one  mile  from  the  station,  and  offer  a  spectacle  not  to 
be  surpassed  by  any  similar  w^onder,  in  vastness,  variety,  and  beauty. 
The  unsupported  spans  are  vaster  than  were  any  of  the  World's  Fair 
Buildings  at  Philadelphia.  The  roof  of  its  highest  room  is  100  ft.  high, 
and  from  this  is  suspended  the  most  enormous  stalactite  in  the  world. 
35 


546  WASHINGTON   TO   NEW   ORLEANS.     [Route  12Jf. 

Every  form  known  to  similar  subterranean  caverns  is  present  at  Luray, 
with  peculiar  forms  known  only  to  this  cave.  It  is  asserted  that  the 
formation  is  older  than  the  Tertiary  Period.  It  was  accidentally  dis- 
covered some  years  ago  in  digging  down  through  a  sink-hole.  At 
Waynesboro  Junction  (175  miles)  connection  is  made  with  the  Chesa- 
peake &  Ohio  R.  R.  Passing  a  number  of  unimportant  stations,  we 
arrive  at  *  "  Natural  Bridge  (230  miles).  This  wonder  of  nature  is 
situated  in  Rockbridge  County,  Ya.,  at  the  extremity  of  a  deep  chasm 
in  which  flows  the  little  stream  called  Cedar  Creek,  across  the  top  of 
which,  from  brink  to  brink,  there  extends  an  enormous  rocky  stratum, 
fashioned  into  a  graceful  arch.  The  bed  of  the  stream  is  more  than 
200  ft.  below  the  surface  of  the  plain,  and  the  sides  of  the  chasm,  at 
the  bottom  of  which  the  water  flows,  are  composed  of  solid  rock,  main- 
taining a  position  almost  perpendicular.  The  middle  of  the  arch  is  40 
ft.  in  perpendicular  thickness,  which  toward  the  sides  regularly  in- 
creases with  a  graceful  curve,  as  in  an  artificial  structure.  It  is  60  ft. 
wide,  and  its  span  is  almost  90  ft.  Across  the  top  of  the  Bridge  passes 
a  public  road,  and  as  it  is  in  the  same  plane  with  the  neighboring 
country,  one  may  cross  it  in  a  coach  without  being  aware  of  the  inter- 
esting pass.  The  most  imposing  view  is  from  about  60  yards  below  the 
Bridge,  close  to  the  edge  of  the  creek;  from  that  position  the  arch 
appears  thinner,  lighter,  and  loftier.  A  little  above  the  Bridge,  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  creek,  the  wall  of  rock  is  broken  into  buttress-like  masses, 
which  rise  almost  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  nearly  250  ft.,  terminat- 
ing in  separate  pinnacles  w^hich  overlook  the  Bridge.  On  the  abut- 
ments of  the  Bridge  there  are  many  names  carved  in  the  rock  of 
persons  who  have  climbed  as  high  as  they  dared  on  the  face  of  the 
precipice.  Highest  of  all  for  nearly  three  quarters  of  a  century  was 
that  of  George  Washington,  who  when  a  youth  ascended  to  a  point 
never  before  reached,  but  which  was  surpassed  in  1818  by  James 
Piper,  a  student  in  Washington  College,  who  actually  climbed  from  the 
foot  to  the  top  of  the  arch.  The  main  line  of  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio 
R.  R.  crosses  here,  running  to  Clifton  Forge^  in  W.  Va.  In  41  miles 
(271  miles  from  Washington)  we  arrive  at  the  village  of  Roanoke, 
where  connection  is  made  with  the  Norfolk  &  Western  R.  R.  Thence 
the  route  is  the  same  as  in  Sub-Route  a. 

c.  Via  East  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  R.  R.  [Chattanooga  and 
Meridian). 
As  far  as  Cleveland  (594  miles)  this  route  is  the  same  as  in  Sub- 
Route  a.  From  Cleveland  a  branch  .of  the  East  Tennessee,  Virginia  & 
Georgia  R.  R.  runs  W.  in  30  miles  to  Chattanooga  [Merchants''  Hotel, 
Read  House,  Southern  Hotel,  and  Stanton  House),  a  city  of  29,100 
inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Tennessee  River  near  where  the  S.  boundary 
of  Tennessee  touches  Alabama  and  Georgia.  Seven  railroads  converge 
here,  and  the  river  is  navigable  to  this  point  by  steamboats  for  8  months 
of  the  year,  and  by  small  boats  at  all  times.  Chattanooga  is  the  ship- 
ping-point for  most  of  the  surplus  productions  of  East  and  of  a  portion  of 
Middle  Tennessee,  and  contains  a  large  number  of  iron-mills,  blast- 


Route  124.]     WASHINGTON   TO   NEW   ORLEANS.  547 

furnaces,  and  cotton-factories  ;  a  manufactory  of  railroad  cars,  sash  and 
blind  factories,  tanneries,  rolling-mills,  and  the  workshops  of  the  Ala- 
bama Great  Southern  R.  R.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Methodist  University. 
During  the  war  Chattanooga  was  an  important  strategic  point.  Above 
the  city  the  celebrated  *  Lookout  Mountain  towers  2,200  ft.  above 
the  sea.  It  was  on  this  mountain  that  the  so-called  battle  "  above  the 
clouds  "  was  fought.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  is  reached  by  a  pictur- 
esque turnpike-road,  which  leads  through  a  variety  of  interesting  scenes, 
and  a  railroad  is  near  completion.  The  points  on  Lookout  best  worth 
visiting  are  Lake  Seclusion,  Lulah  Falls,  Rock  Citv,  and  the  battle- 
field. 

From  Chattanooga  the  route  is  via  the  Alabama  Div.,  which  runs 
S.  W.  to  Meridian,  in  the  State  of  Mississippi.  Birmingham  (143 
miles ;  Florence  Hotel.^  Hotel  Caldwell.,  Wilson  House)^  incorporated 
in  1879,  has  a  population  of  26,178,  the  chief  industry  being  iron 
manufactures  and  mining.  It  contains  five  furnaces,  one  rolling-mill, 
iron-foundries,  chain-works,  etc.  It  has  seven  public  schools,  fourteen 
churches,  a  female  college,  and  an  opera-house.  Likewise  it  is  the 
terminus  of  the  Kansas  City,  Fort  Scott  &  Memphis  R.  R.  Tuscaloosa 
(198  miles;  Washington  House)  is  a  city  of  some  4,215  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated on  the  left  bank  of  the  Black  Warrior  River,  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation.  It  is  the  commercial  center  of  a  district  rich  in  resources, 
and  has  a  considerable  trade  in  cotton,  wheat,  coal,  etc.  The  streets  of 
the  city  are  wide  and  well  shaded.  A  mile  distant  are  the  grounds  of  the 
University  of  Alabama  ;  the  buildings,  with  their  contents,  were  burned 
in  1865,  and  have  been  only  partially  restored.  The  Alabama  Insane 
Hospital.,  about  a  mile  beyond  the  University,  has  a  front  of  780  ft., 
with  extensive  out-buildings  and  grounds.  The  city  takes  its  name  from 
the  Indian  chief  Tuscaloosa  ("  black  warrior "),  who  was  defeated  by 
De  Soto  in  the  bloody  battle  of  Malvila,  Oct.  18,  1540.  From  1826  to 
1846  it  was  the  capital  of  the  State.  Eutaw  (233  miles)  is  a  pretty 
town,  capital  of  Greene  County,  situated  3  miles  W.  of  the  Black 
Warrior  River.  The  adjacent  country  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  por- 
tions of  the  State,  and  Eutaw  is  surrounded  by  rich  plantations.  York 
(262  miles)  is  at  the  junction  with  a  branch  Avhich  runs  across  the  State 
from  Selma  to  Meridian.  At  Cuba  (274  miles)  the  road  crosses  the 
boundary-line  and  enters  the  State  of  Mississippi,  and  21  miles  beyond 
reaches  Meridian,  whose  importance  is  due  chiefly  to  its  position  at 
the  junction  of  several  railways.  It  was  captured  by  Gen.  Sherman  on 
Feb.  16,  1864,  and,  according  to  his  own  account,  his  troops  accom- 
plished "the  most  complete  destruction  of  railways  ever  beheld."  At 
Meridian  the  passengers  for  Mobile  take  the  Mobile  &  Ohio  R.  R., 
which  runs  S.  to  Mobile  in  135  miles.  Those  going  to  New  Orleans 
can  go  via  New  Orleans  &  Northeastern  Div.  (Queen  &  Crescent  Sys- 
tem), which  runs  direct  from  Meridian  to  New  Orleans,  a  distance  of 
196  miles. 


548  LOTJISVILLE    TO    JSTEW    ORLEANS.       [Kovte  126. 

125.  Charleston  or  Savannah  to  Mobile  or  New  Orleans 
via  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  R.  R. 

All  northern  points  are  brought  in  close  connection  with  Mobile  and 
New  Orleans  via  Charleston  by  this  route.  For  the  routes  to  Charleston, 
see  Routes  111  and  112.  From  Charleston  to  Savannah,  see  Route 
113.  At  Savannah  the  train  takes  the  track  of  the  main  line  of 
the  Savannah,  Floiida  &  Western  R.  R.  as  far  as  Bainhridge  Junc- 
tion (342  miles).  This  route  has  been  described  in  Route  114.  Chat- 
tahoochee, Fla.  (373  miles),  on  the  Appalachicola  River  near  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Flint,  is  the  seat  of  the  State  Penitentiary  and  Lunatic 
Asylum,  and  is  the  present  W.  terminus  of  the  Savannah,  Florida  & 
Western  R.  R.  Crossing  the  river  on  a  fine  bridge,  the  train  takes  the 
track  of  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R.,  which  runs  161  miles  across 
the  N.  W.  portion  of  Florida  to  Pensacola.  At  Careyville,  100  miles 
from  Pensacola,  there  is  connection  with  local  steamboats  on  the  Choc- 
tawhatchee  River,  and  at  Pensacola  (see  Route  121)  the  train  takes  the 
track  of  the  main  line  of  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R.  for  Mobile 
and  New  Orleans  (see  Route  123).  (For  description  of  New  Orleans, 
see  Route  128.) 

126,  Louisville  to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans. 

By  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  E.  R.  This  is  one  of  the  great  highways  of 
travel  and  tralilic  between  the  Northern  and  Southern  States.  At  Louisville 
close  connections  are  made  with  the  various  routes  converging  there  from  the 
North  and  West  (see  Routes  77  and  83).  Through  palace-cars  are  run  without 
change  from  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  Washington  to  ISew 
Orleans  ;  and  from  Cincinnati,  Louisville,  and  St.  Louis  to  Montgomery,  Mobile, 
and  Nev.'  Orleans.  The  time  from  Louisville  to  Mobile  is  about  22  hours  ;  to  New 
Orleans,  about  25  hours.  Distances  :  to  Cave  City,  85  miles  ;  to  Memphis  Junc- 
tion, 118  (Memphis,  377) :  to  Nashville,  185  ;  to  Decatur,  308  ;  to  Birmingham, 
395  ;  to  Calera,  428  ;  to  Montgomery,  490  ;  to  Mobile,  670  ;  to  New  Orleans,  811. 

Louisville  is  described  in  Route  77.  Leaving  Louisville,  the  train 
runs  S.  W,  across  a  productive  and  populous  portion  of  Kentucky,  then 
crosses  Tennessee  from  N.  to  S.,  and  continues  S.  through  central  Ala- 
bama. Bardstovm  Junction  (22  miles)  is  the  point  whence  the  Bards- 
town  Branch  runs  to  Bardstovm  (17  miles  distant).  At  Lebanon  Junc- 
tion (30  miles)  the  Knosville  Branch  diverges.  Mumfordsville  (73  miles) 
is  a  pretty  village  on  the  right  bank  of  Green  River,  which  is  here 
spanned  by  a  fine  bridge.  This  neighborhood  was  the  scene  of  numer- 
ous encounters  between  Generals  Buell  and  Bragg  in  the  campaign  of 
1862.  At  Glasgoiv  Junction  (90  miles)  all  trains  make  connection  with 
the  Mammoth  Cave  R.  R.,  running  to  the  **  Mammoth  Cave,  12 
miles  distant,  and  allow  a  "stop  over"  to  visitors.  At  the  Mammoth 
Gave  Hotel,  near  the  cave-entrance,  guides,  boats,  etc.,  can  be  procured. 
The  mouth  of  the  cave  is  reached  by  passing  down  a  wild,  rocky  ravine 
through  a  dense  forest ;  it  is  an  irregular,  funnel-shaped  opening,  from 
60  to  100  ft.  in  diameter  at  the  top,  with  steep  walls  about  50  ft.  high. 
The  cave,  which  is  the  largest  known,  extends  about  9  miles ;  and  it  is 


Route   126.]       LOUISVILLE    TO    NEW    OKLEANS.  549 

said  that  to  visit  the  portions  ah-ead}-  explored  requires  from  150  to  200 
miles  of  travel.  This  vast  interior  contains  a  succession  of  marvelous 
avenues,  chambers,  domes,  abysses,  grottoes,  lakes,  rivers,  cataracts,  etc., 
which  for  size  and  wonderful  appearance  are  unsurpassed.  The  rocks 
present  numerous  forms  and  shapes  of  objects  in  the  external  world ; 
while  stalactites  and  stalagmites  of  gigantic  size  and  fantastic  form 
abound,  though  not  so  brilliant  and  beautiful  as  are  found  in  some  other 
caves.  Two  remarkable  species  of  animal  life  are  found  in  the  cave,  in 
the  form  of  an  eyeless  fish  and  an  eyeless  craw-fish,  which  are  nearly 
white  in  color.  Another  species  of  fish  has  been  found  with  eyes,  but 
totally  blind.  Other  animals  known  to  exist  in  the  cave  are  lizards, 
frogs,  crickets,  rats,  bats,  etc.,  besides  ordinary  fish  and  craw-fish  washed 
in  from  the  neighboring  Green  River.  The  atmosphere  of  the  cave  is 
pure  and  healthful ;  the  temperature,  which  averages  59°,  is  about  the 
same  in  winter  and  summer,  not  being  affected  by  climatic  changes  with- 
out. To  describe  the  cave  in  detail  would  require  a  volume,  and,  after 
all,  the  visitor  would  have  to  intrust  himself  to  the  guides.  These  give 
him  the  choice  between  the  Shoi't  Route  (fee,  $2)  and  the  Long  Route 
(fee,  $3).  They  carry  lamps  and  torches,  and  impart  all  the  needful 
information  regarding  special  localities. 

"  The  stars  were  all  in  their  places  as  I  walked  back  to  the  hotel.  I  had 
been  12  hours  under  ground,  in  which  time  I  had  walked  about  24  miles.  I  had 
lost  a  day,  a  day  with  its  joyous  morning,  its  fervid  noon,  its  tempest,  and  its 
angry  sunset  of  crimson  and  gold,  but  I  had  gained  an  age  in  a  strange  and 
hitherto  unknown  world— an  age  of  wonderful  experience,  and  an  exhaustless 
store  of  sublime  and  lovely  memories.  Before  taking  a  final  leave  of  the  Mam- 
moth Cave,  however,  let  me  assure  those  who  have  followed  me  through  it  that 
no  description  can  do  justice  to  its  sublimity,  or  present  a  fair  picture  of  its 
manifold  wonders.  It  is  the  greatest  natural  curiosity  I  have  ever  visited,  Niag- 
ara not  excepted  ;  and  he  wtiose  expectations  are  not  satisfied  by  its  marvelous 
avenues,  domes,  and  starry  grottoes,  must  either  be  a  fool  or  a  demigod." — 
Bayard  Tatlok. 

Twenty-nine  miles  beyond  Cave  City  is  BoAV^ling  Green  (114 
miles),  a  thriving  town  of  7,803  inhabitants,  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  Barren  River.  At  the  l^eginning  of  the  civil  war  Bowling  Green  was 
regarded  as  a  point  of  great  strategic  importance,  and  was  occupied  in 
Sept.,  1861,  by  a  large  force  of  Confederates  for  the  purpose  of  defend- 
ing the  approach  to  Nashville.  After  the  capture  of  Fort  Henry  by  the 
Federals  (Feb.  6,  1862)  the  Confederates  found  themselves  outflanked, 
and  were  obliged  to  evacuate  the  town.  At  Memphis  Junction  (118 
miles)  the  Memphis  Line  diverges  from  the  main  line,  and  runs,  in  259 
miles,  to  Memphis  (see  Route  133).  At  Edgefield  Junction  (175  miles) 
connection  is  made  with  the  St.  Louis,  Evansville  &  Nashville  Div.  of 
the  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R.,  which  forms  a  short  line  between  St. 
Louis  and  points  in  the  Southern  States.  Edgefield  (184  miles)  is  now 
a  portion  of  Nashville,  on  the  other  bank  of  the  river. 

Nashville  {Bailey  House^  Hotel  Duncan^  LincJc's  Hotel^  Maxwell 
House,  Nicholson  House)  is  the  capital  of  Tennessee,  and  the  largest  city 
in  the  State  in  point  of  population  (76,168),  and  is  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  Cumberland  River,  200  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio. 
The  land  on  which  the  city  is  built  is  irregular,  rising  in  gradual  slopes, 


550  LOUIS YILLE   TO   NEW    ORLEANS.       [Route  126. 

with  the  exception  of  Capitol  Hill^  which  is  more  abrupt.  This  emi- 
nence is  symmetrical,  resembling  an  Indian  mound,  and  overlooks  the 
entire  city.  Nashville  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  streets  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles.  It  is  generally  well  built,  and  there  are  numer- 
ous imposing  public  and  private  buildings.  Among  the  former  is  the 
*  Capitol,  situated  on  Capitol  Hill,  and  constructed  inside  and  out  of 
a  beautiful  variety  of  fossiliferous  limestone.  It  is  three  stories  high, 
including  the  basement,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  tower  206  ft.  in  height. 
The  dimensions  of  the  whole  building  are  239  by  138  ft. ;  it  was  erected 
in  1845  at  a  cost  of  over  $1,000,000.  It  is  approached  by  four  avenues, 
which  rise  from  terrace  to  terrace  by  broad  marble  steps.  The  *  Court- 
House  is  a  large  building  on  the  Public  Square,  with  an  eight-columned 
Corinthian  portico  at  each  end,  and  a  four-columned  portico  at  each 
side.  The  Custom- House  is  a  handsome  structure,  in  the  Gothic  style, 
of  limestone  and  granite,  costing  nearly  $1,000,000.  The  State  Peniten- 
tiary has  spacious  stone  buildings  occupying  three  sides  of  a  hollow 
square  inclosed  by  a  massive  stone  wall,  within  which  are  numerous 
workshops.  The  State  Institution  for  the  Blind  is  located  at  Nashville, 
and  the  State  Hospital  for  the  Luane  is  about  6  miles  distant.  The 
educational  institutions  of  the  city  are  numerous  and  important.  The 
buildings  of  Vanderhilt  University  (named  in  honor  of  the  late  Corne- 
lius Vanderbilt,  of  New  York)  deserve  attention.  This  institution  is 
under  the  conti-ol  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  South,  and  com- 
prises academic,  engineering,  theological,  law,  medical,  dental,  and  phar- 
maceutical departments,  and  is  the  largest  institution  in  the  South,  hav- 
ing over  800  students.  The  campus  covers  76  acres  and  contains  20 
buildings.  The  University  of  Nashville  has  over  300  students  and  a 
library  of  12,000  volumes.  The  main  building  is  a  handsome  Gothic 
edifice  of  stone.  The  Medical  Department  also  has  a  fine  building  and 
museum.  It  operates  in  connection  with  the  Peabody  Normal  College, 
which  is  maintained  by  the  income  derived  from  the  educational  fund 
left  by  George  Peabody.  Fisk  University  was  established  in  1866  by 
Northern  philanthropists  for  the  colored  people  of  the  State.  Roger 
Williams  University  is  another  large  institution  for  colored  people,  under 
the  patronage  of  the  Baptist  Church.  The  Tennessee  Central  College 
(Methodist),  also  for  colored  people,  was  established  in  1866.  The 
Eoman  Catholic  Church  has  3  large  academies.  The  Watkins  Institute 
is  a  fine  building,  containing  the  collections  of  the  Tennessee  Historical 
Association  and  the  Nashville  Art  Association,  also  the  Haward  Libra- 
ry, which  is  one  of  the  most  complete  in  the  South.  The  city  is  lighted 
with  gas  and  electricity,  is  supplied  with  water  by  expensive  works, 
and  has  several  lines  of  street  railway — about  50  miles  of  track  entirely 
"  electric  system."  The  railways  converging  here,  and  the  river,  enable 
the  city  to  command  the  trade  of  an  extensive  region,  and  its  manufact- 
ures are  varied  and  important.  The  Hermitage^  the  celebrated  residence 
of  Andrew  Jackson,  is  10  miles  E.  of  Nashville. 

Tlie  Battle  of  Nashville.— In  November,  1864,  the  Confederate  Genera] 
Hood,  having  lost  Atlanta,  placed  his  army  in  Gen.  Sherman's  rear  and  began  an 
invasion  of  Tennessee.  After  severe  fighting  with  Gen.  Schofield  on  Nov.  30,  he 


Route  127.]  CHICAGO    TO    NEW    OELEAIs^S.  551 

advanced  upon  Nashville  and  shut  up  Gen.  Thomas  within  its  fortifications. 
For  two  weeks  little  was  done  on  either  side.  When  Thomas  was  fully  ready, 
he  suddenly  sallied  out  on  Hood,  and  in  a  terrible  two  days'  battle  (Dec.  15  and 
16)  drove  the  Confederate  forces  out  of  their  intrenchments. 

Between  Nashville  and  Montgomery  there  is  little  to  attract  the 
tourist's  attention.  The  country  traversed  offers  few  picturesque  feat- 
ures, and  the  towns  along  the  line  are  for  the  most  part  unimportant. 
The  largest  of  them  is  Columbia  (48  miles  beyond  Nashville),  a 
flourishing  town  of  SjS'ZO  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
Duck  River,  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  and  productive  region.  It  is  the 
seat  of  a  female  Athenaeum,  a  female  institute,  several  schools,  and  a 
conference  college.  At  Stcde  Line  {281  miles)  the  train  leaves  Tennes- 
see and  enters  Alabama.  Decahor  (308  miles)  is  a  neat  village  at  the 
junction  of  the  East  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  K.  R.  on  the  route 
from  Memphis  to  Charleston.  Birmingham  (395  miles)  is  at  the  cross- 
ing of  the  Alabama  Great  Southern  R.  R.  of  the  Queen  &  Crescent 
System  (Route  124  6),  and  Cater  a  (428  miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the 
Alabama  Div.  of  the  E.  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  R.  R.  (see  Route 
124  a).  Montgomery  (490  miles)  has  been  described  in  Route  122  a. 
From  Montgomery  to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans  the  route  is  the  same 
as  in  Route  122  a. 

127.  Chicago  and  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans. 

By  the  Southern  Division  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  K.,  which  is  now  a 
through  route.  This  is  one  of  the  main  trunk  lines  between  the  JSTorth- 
em  and  Southern  States,  and  palace-cars  are  run  throixgh  without  change 
from  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  Louisville,  and  St.  Louis,  and  with  but  one  change 
from  New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia,  and  Baltimore.  Two  trains  are  run 
daily,  and  the  time  from  Chicago  to  New  Orleans  is  about  .50  hours ;  from 
St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans,  about  38  hours.  Distances  :  Chicago  to  Cairo,  305 
miles ;  St.  Louis  to  Cairo,  140  miles ;  Cairo  to  Milan,  86  miles  ;  to  Jackson, 
Tenn.,  109  ;  to  Bolivar,  138  ;  to  Grand  Junction,  156  ;  to  Grenada,  256  ;  to  Can- 
ton, 344  ;  to  Jackson,  Miss.,  368  ;  to  Magnolia,  453  ;  to  New  Orleans,  550. 

From  Chicago  to  Cairo  this  route  is  via  the  Chicago  Division,  and 
has  been  described  in  Route  84.  From  St.  Louis  the  route  is  via  the  St. 
Louis  &  Cairo  Short  Line,  which  runs  S.  E.  from  St.  Louis,  and  connects 
at  Du  Quoin  with  the  main  line  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  At  Cairo 
(see  Route  84)  the  Ohio  River  is  crossed,  and  the  road  runs  due  S.  across 
portions  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee  and  through  Central  Mississippi. 
The  country  traversed  is  for  the  most  part  populous  and  pleasing,  but 
there  are  no  large  cities  en  route ^  and  very  few  important  towns.  At 
Fulton  (44  miles  from  Cairo)  connection  is  made  with  the  Western  Div. 
of  the  Newport  News  &  Mississippi  Valley  R.  R.,  and  at  Martin's  (55 
miles)  with  the  Nashville,  Chattanooga  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  Milan  (86 
miles)  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Memphis  Div.  of  the  Louisville  &  Nash- 
ville R.  R.,  93  miles  from  Memphis  (see  Route  126).  The  cars  from 
Cincinnati  and  Louisville  going  south  on  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  run 
through  via  Milan.  Twenty-three  miles  beyond  Milan  is  Jackson 
{Robinson  House)^  the  largest  city  in  this  section  of  Tennessee,  with  a 
population  of  10,039.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Forked  Deer 
River,  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  region,  and  has  a  large  and  growing 


552  NEW   ORLEANS.  [Route  128. 

trade.  There  are  several  manufacturing  establishments,  including  the 
extensive  machine-shops  of  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  R.  R.  Jack- 
son is  the  seat  of  the  West  Tennessee  College^  which  is  in  a  prosper- 
ous condition,  and  of  a  Methodist  female  institute.  Bolivar  (138 
miles)  is  a  handsome  and  thriving  town  of  1,100  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated 1  mile  S.  of  the  Hatchee  River,  which  is  navigable  by  steam- 
boats for  6  to  9  months  of  the  year.  Gravid  Junction  (156  miles)  is  at 
the  crossing  of  the  E.  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  R.  R.  on  the  way 
from  Memphis  to  Charleston.  Shortly  beyond  Grand  Junction  the  train 
crosses  the  State  line  and  enters  Mississippi,  soon  reaching  the  flourish- 
ing town  of  Holly  Springs  (181  miles),  which  is  noted  for  its  educa- 
tional institutions  and  the  pleasing  scenery  adjacent.  Grenada  (256 
miles)  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Yallowbusha  River,  at  the  head  of 
steamboat  navigation.  It  contains  a  U.  S.  land-office  and  several  churches. 
Connection  is  made  here  with  the  Memphis  Div.  of  the  Ilinois  Central 
R.  R.  Canton  (344  miles)  is  a  neat  and  lively  village ;  and  24  miles 
beyond  the  train  reaches  Jackson  [Edwards  House)^  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Mississippi.  It  is  regularly  built  upon  undulating  ground  on 
the  W.  bank  of  Pearl  River,  and  has  some  5,920  inhabitants.  The 
*  State-House  is  a  very  handsome  edifice,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $600,000. 
The  other  chief  public  buildings  are  the  Executive  Mansion,  the  State 
Lunatic  Asylum,  the  State  Institutions  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind,  and 
the  City  Hall.  The  State  Penitentiary,  a  spacious  and  handsome  edifice, 
was  nearly  destroyed  during  the  civil  war,  but  is  to  be  rebuilt.  The  State 
Library  contains  15,000  volumes.  Jackson  was  captured  by  General 
Grant  on  May  14, 1863,  after  a  battle  with  General  Johnston,  in  which  the 
Confederates  were  defeated.  The  railroad  depots,  bridges,  arsenals,  work- 
shops, storehouses,  and  many  residences  were  destroyed.  Between  Jack- 
son and  New  Orleans  there  are  numerous  small  towns,  but  none  requir- 
ing mention. 

128.  New  Orleans. 

Hotels.— The  *S'^.  Charles  Hotel,  in  St.  Charles  St.,  between  Gravier  and 
Common,  is  the  largest  in  the  city.  The  Hotel  Eoyal.  bounded  by  St.  Louis, 
Royal,  and  Chartres  Sts.  The  Hotel  VonderMnck,  in  Magazine  St.,  between 
Gravier  and  Natchez,  is  on  the  European  plan.  The  Lafayette  Hotel,  J30  Camp 
St. ;  the  Hotel  de  la  Louisiane,  107  and  109  Custom-House  St.  ;  the  Hotel  Dene- 
chaud.  cor.  of  Perdido  and  Carondelet  Sts.  ;  the  Christian  Women's  Exchange 
(for  women  only),  1  South  St.  ;  and  the  Hotel  des  Etrangers.  129  Chartres  St., 
are  also  excellent  houses.  All  the  hotels  make  considerably  lower  rates  to 
guests  remaining  a  week  or  more,  though  most  are  kept  on  the  European  plan. 
Good  board  may  be  obtained  in  all  parts  of  the  city  at  from  $6  to  $20  a  week. 

Restaurants. — Of  restaurants,  New  Orleans  has  some  of  the  best  in  Amer- 
ica ;  in  many  of  them  is  still  practiced  the  famous  creole  cuisine  of  ante-war 
times.  The  most  noted  are  Moreav's,  in  Canal  St.  ;  Bezandon's,  107  and  109 
Custom-House  St.  :  Cassidy's,  174  Gravier  St.  ;  the  Cosmopolitan,  13  and  15 
Royal  St. ;  Eabacher's,  23  Royal  St.  ;  the  Ge?n,  17  Royal  St.  ;  Harris's,  31  Nat- 
chez St.  ;  Lamothe's,  23  St.  Charles  St.  ;  NicholVs,  74  Camp  St.  ;  the  Acme,  9 
and  11  Royal  St.  ;  Vonderbanck's,  128  to  130  Common  St.  ;  Antoine's,  65  St. 
Louis  St.  ;  and  Denechaud's,  8  Carondelet  St.  In  the  French  quarter  cafes  are 
to  be  found  in  nearly  every  block. 

Modes  of  Conveyance.— The  street-car  system  of  New  Orleans  is  perhaps 
the  most  complete  in  the  country.  Starting  from  the  central  avenue — Canal 
Street— tracks  radiate  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and  suburbs,  and  passengers  are 


#  Co.,  CmpUU  Easravm^and  Frinlina  Worjs,  Buffale  and  Nmi  Ym-k. 


Jtioute  128.]  NEW   ORLEANS.  553 

carried  to  any  point  within  the  city  limits  for  5c.,  except  to  Carrolltou,  whither 
the  fare  is  10c.  Ominbuses  attend  the  arrival  of  trains  and  steamers,  and  con- 
vey passengers  to  the  hotels,  etc.  (fare,  2.5c.).  Carriages  and  cals  can  be  found 
at  the  stands  in  front  of  the  St.  Charles  and  other  leading  hotels.  Fare,  $1  an 
hour  ;  $5  for  the  forenoon  or  afternoon.  The  best  plan  for  strangers  is  to  hire 
a  suitable  conveyance  by  the  hour  and  discharge  at  the  end  of  each  trip.  Fer- 
ries connect  the  city  with  Algiers,  McDonoghville,  and  Gretna,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  Three  steam-railroads  connect  the  city  with  Lake  Pontchar- 
train  :  fare,  loc.  for  the  round  trip. 

Theatres  and  Amusements.— The  French  Opera-House,  cor.  Bourbon 
and  Toulouse  Sts.,  has  seats  for  2,000,  and  is  fitted  up  in  the  style  of  the  The- 
atre Fran9ais,  Paris.  The  Academy  of  Music,  in  St.  Charles  St.,  between  Poy- 
dras  St.  and  Conunercial  Place,  and  the  St.  Charles  Theatre,  in  St.  Charles  St., 
between  Perdido  and  Poydras,  are  well  appointed.  The  Grand  Opera-Hou^e 
is  in  Canal  St.  Besides  the  theatres  there  are  a  score  or  more  of  halls  in  which 
entertainments  of  various  kinds  are  given.  The  principal  of  these  are  the  Ma- 
sanic  Hall,  Odd-Fellows'  Hall,  Washington  Artilleiy  Hall,  and  Grunewald  Hall, 
in  Baronne  St.  near  Canal.  Horse-races  occur  at  the  Fair-Grounds  race-track 
(reached  by  Shell-Road  and  3  lines  of  horse-cars),  and  at  Audubon  Park  (reached 
by  the  St.  Charles  Ave.  line  of  horse-cars).  Besides  the  regular  sources  of  amuse- 
ment which  it  enjoys  in  common  with  other  cities,  New  Orleans  is  noted  for  its 
great  displays,  during  the  holiday  and  carnival  season,  of  troops  and  processions 
of  masqueraders.  Among  the  many  societies  which  contribute  to  these  dis- 
plays, the  most  famous  are  the  Mystick  Crewe  of  Comiis,  the  Knights  of  Mo- 
mus,  the  Kreive  of  Proteus,  and  the  Atlanteans,  Momus  appearing  on  preceding 
Thursday,  and  Comus  and  Proteus  on  the  night  of  *  Mardi  Gras,  or  Shrove- 
Tuesday.  On  the  same  day  (Shrove-Tuesday),  Eex,  King  of  the  Carnival, 
arrives  with  a  large  retinue,  takes  formal  possession  of  the  city  for  the  nonce, 
and  makes  a  grand  display,  followed  by  his  staff,  courtiers,  and  attendants,  all 
mounted  and  dressed  in  gorgeous  Oriental  costumes.  The  processions  are  fol- 
lowed by  receptions,  tableaux,  and  balls,  which  are  largely  attended  by  the  elite 
of  the  city,  and  by  strangers  sojourning  there,  who  are  generally  the  recipients 
of  cards  of  invitation. 

Clubs. — The  prominent  clubs  in  the  city  are  the  Boston,  the  Pickwick,  the 
Chess,  Checkers,  and  Whist,  the  Liedertafel,  the  Commercial,  the  Harmony, 
the  Union,  and  the  Jockey  Club.  The  last-named  has  a  fine  house  and  beauti- 
fully decorated  and  cultivated  grounds  near  the  Fair-Grounds.  Also  the  South- 
ern Athletic  Club  and  the  Young  Men's  Gymnastic  Club.  There  is  also  a 
Woman's  Club.  The  privileges  of  these  clubs  are  obtained  by  introduction 
by  a  member. 

Post-Office.— The  Post-Oflice  occupies  the  basement  of  the  Custom-House, 
which  fronts  on  Canal  St.,  between  Peters  and  Decatur  Sts.  It  is  open  day  and 
night  for  mailing,  and  from  6.30  A.  in.  to  6  p.  m.  for  delivery  ;  Sundays,  9  a.  m. 
to  12  M.  There  are  four  sub-stations,  and  letters  may  also  be  mailed  in  the 
lamp-post  boxes,  w^hence  they  are  collected  at  frequent  intervals. 

New  Orleans,  the  chief  city,  and  commercial  metropolis  of  Louis- 
iana, is  situated  on  both  banks  (but  chiefly  on  the  left)  of  the  Missis- 
sippi Eiver,  100  miles  above  its  mouth,  in  latitude  29°  57'  N.  and 
longitude  90°  W.  The  older  portion  of  the  city  is  built  within  a  great 
bend  of  the  river,  from  which  circumstance  it  derives  its  familiar  title 
of  the  "  Crescent  City."  In  the  progress  of  its  growth  up-stream,  it 
has  now^  so  extended  itself  as  to  follow  long  curves  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, so  that  the  river-front  on  the  left  bank  presents  an  outline  some- 
what resembling  the  letter  S.  The  statutory  limits  of  the  city  embrace 
an  area  of  some  187  square  miles,  but  the  actual  city  covers  an  area 
of  about  41  square  miles.  It  is  built  on  land  gently  descending  from 
the  river  toward  a  marshy  tract  in  the  rear,  and  considerably  below  the 
level  of  the  river  at  high-water  mark,  which  is  prevented  from  over- 
flowing by  a  vast  embankment  of  earth,  called  the  Levee.     This  Levee 


554  NEW    OELEAliTS.  [Eoute   128. 

is  15  ft.  wide  and  14  ft.  high,  is  constructed  for  a  great  distance  along 
the  river-bank,  and  forms  a  delightful  promenade. 

The  site  of  New  Orleans  was  surveyed  iii  1717  by  De  la  Tour  ;  it  was  settled 
in  1718,  but  abandoned  in  consequence  of  overflows,  storms,  and  sickness  ;  was 
resettled  in  1723,  held  by  the  French  till  1729,  then  by  the  Spaniards  till  1801,  and 
by  the  French  again  till  1803,  when,  with  the  province  of  Louisiana,  it  was 
ceded  to  the  United  States.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1804.  The  most 
memorable  events  in  the  history  of  New  Orleans  are  the  rebellion  against  the 
cession  by  France  to  Spain  in  1763,  the  battle  of  January  8,  1815,  in  which  the 
British  were  defeated  by  Andrew  Jackson,  and  the  capture  of  the  city  by  Ad- 
miral Farragut  on  April  24,  1862.  In  1810,  seven  years  after  its  cession  to  the 
United  States,  the  population  of  New  Orleans  was  17,243.  In  1850  it  had  in- 
creased to  116,375  ;  in  1860,  to  168,675  ;  in  1870,  to  191,418  ;  in  1880,  to  216,140  ; 
and  in  1890,  to  242,039,  In  the  value  of  its  exports  and  its  entire  foreign 
commerce,  New  Orleans  ranks  close  to  New  York,  though  several  ports  surpass 
it  in  the  value  of  imports.  Not  unfrequently  more  than  1,000  steamers  and  other 
vessels  from  all  parts  of  the  v.-orld  may  be  seen  lying  at  the  Levee.  New  Or- 
leans is  the  chief  cotton  mart  of  the  world  ;  and,  besides  cotton,  it  sends  abroad 
sugar,  rice,  tobacco,  flour,  pork,  etc. 

The  streets  of  New  Orleans,  in  width  and  general  appearance,  are 
second  to  those  of  no  city  of  its  size.  As  far  back  as  Claiborne  St. 
those  running  parallel  to  the  river  and  to  each  other  present  an  un- 
broken line  from  the  lower  to  the  upper  limits  of  the  city,  a  distance  of 
about  12  miles.  Those  at  right  angles  to  them  run  from  the  Missis- 
sippi toward  the  lake  with  more  regularity  than  might  be  expected  from 
the  very  sinuous  course  of  the  river.  Canal  St«  is  the  main  business 
thoroughfare  and  promenade.  It  is  nearly  200  ft.  wide,  and  has  a  grass- 
plot  25  ft.  wide  and  bordered  with  two  rows  of  trees,  extending  in  the 
center  through  its  whole  length.  Claiborne,  Rampart,  St.  Charles,  and 
Esplanade  Sts.  are  similarly  embellished.  Royal,  Rampart,  and  Espla- 
nade Sis.  are  the  principal  promenades  of  the  French  quarter. — The 
favorite  drives  are  out  the  Shell-Road  to  Lake  Pontchartrain  and  over 
an  asphalt  road  to  Carrf.Uton ;  also  out  St.  Charles  Ave.,  through  the 
residential  quarter  to  Audubon  Park. 

Chief  among  the  architectural  features  of  New  Orleans  is  the  *  Cus- 
tom-House.  This  noble  structure  is  built  of  Quincy  granite  brought 
from  the  Massachusetts  quarries.  Its  main  front  on  Canal  St.  is  334  ft. ; 
that  on  Custom-House  St.,  252  ft. ;  on  Peters  St.,  310  ft. ;  and  on  Deca- 
tur St.,  297  ft.  Its  height  is  82  ft.  The  Marble  Hall,  or  chief  business 
apartment,  is  116  by  90  ft.,  and  is  lighted  by  50  windows.  The  build- 
ing was  begun  in  1848,  and  is  not  yet  entirely  finished.  The  Fost- 
Office  occupies  the  basement  of  the  Custom-House,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  commodious  in  the  country.  The  *U.  S.  Branch  Mint  stands 
at  the  cor.  of  Esplanade  and  Decatur  Sts.  It  is  built  of  brick,  stuccoed 
in  imitation  of  brown-stone,  in  the  Ionic  style,  and,  being  282  ft,  long, 
180  ft.  deep,  and  3  stories  high,  presents  an  imposing  appearance.  The 
*  City  Hall,  at  the  intersection  of  St.  Charles  and  Lafayette  Sts.,  is 
the  most  artistic  of  the  public  buildings  of  the  city.  It  is  of  white 
marble,  in  the  Ionic  style,  with  a  wide  and  high  flight  of  granite  steps 
leading  to'  a  beautiful  portico  supported  by  8  columns.  The  City  Lihrary 
occupies  suitable  rooms  in  this  building.  The  Court-Houses  are  on  the 
right  and  left  of  the  Cathedral,  in  Jackson  Square.     They  were  con- 


Route  128.]  NEW    ORLEANS.  555 

structed  toward  the  close  of  the  last  century.  The  Masonic  Hall^  cor. 
St.  Charles  and  Perdido  Sts.,  is  an  imposing  edifice,  103  by  100  ft.  Odd- 
Fellows'  Hall  is  a  massive  square  structure  in  Camp  St.  opposite  La- 
fayette Square.  City  Courts^  on  the  site  of  the  old  Odd-Fellows'  Hall, 
is  one  of  the  conspicuous  buildings  in  the  city.  Washington  Artillery 
Hall  is  in  St.  Charles  St.,  between  Julia  and  Girod,  in  which  are  given 
floral  displays  and  other  exhibitions.  The  Cotton  Exchange^  in  Caron- 
delet  St.,  cor.  Gravier,  built  at  a  cost  of  $500,000,  is  a  magnificent 
structure.  The  Sugar  Exchange^  on  the  levee  foot  of  Bienville  St. ;  the 
Produce  Exchange^  in  Magazine  St.,  between  Gravier  and  Natchez  Sts. ; 
the  Pichvick  Club,  cor.  Canal  and  Carondelet  Sts. ;  the  Morris  Build- 
ing,  cor.  Canal  and  Camp  Sts. ;  the  Li/ons  Building^  cor.  Gravier  and 
Camp  Sts. ;  the  Baldwin  Building,  cor.  Camp  and  Common  Sts. ;  and 
the  Hoioard  Library,  cor.  Howard  Ave.  and  Camp  St.  (one  of  the  last 
works  of  Henry  H.  Richardson,  of  Boston),  are  handsome  buildings. 
Adjoining  the  library  is  the  Annex,  occupied  by  the  Louisiana  Histor- 
ical Association. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  church  edifices  in  New  Orleans  is  the 
old  *  Cathedral  of  St.  Louis  (Roman  Catholic),  which  stands  in 
Chartres  St.,  on  the  E.  side  of  Jackson  Square.  The  foundation  was 
laid  in  1792,  and  the  building  completed  in  1*794  by  Don  Andre  Almo- 
naster,  perpetual  regidor  of  the  province.  It  was  altered  and  enlarged 
in  1850,  from  designs  by  De  Louilly.  The  paintings  on  the  roof  of  the 
building  are  by  Canova  and  Rossi.  The  Church  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception  (Jesuit),  cor.  Baronne  and  Common  Sts.,  is  a  striking  edifice 
in  the  Moorish  style.  St.  Patriclch  (Roman  Catholic)  is  a  fine  Gothic 
structure  in  Camp  St.,  N.  of  Lafayette  Square.  Its  tower,  190  ft. 
high,  was  modeled  after  that  of  the  famous  minster  of  York,  Eng- 
land. The  church  of  ^  St.  John  the  Baptist,  in  Dryades  St.  between 
Clio  and  Calliope,  is  a  fine  building.  The  Episcopal  churches  are 
Trinity,  cor.  Jackson  and  Coliseum  Sts.,  and  Christ,  cor.  St.  Charles 
Ave.  and  6th  St.  The  First  Presbyterian,  fronting  on  Lafayette 
Square,  is  a  Gothic  structure,  much  admired  for  its  elegant  steeple, 
which  is  the  highest  in  the  city.  The  McChee  Church,  in  Carondelet 
St.  near  Lafayette,  is  the  principal  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  churches, 
South.  The  Unitarian  Church,  cor.  St.  Charles  and  Julia  Sts.,  is  a 
handsome  building.  The  *  Temple  Sinai  (Jewish  synagogue),  in 
Carondelet  St.  near  Calliope,  is  one  of  the  finest  places  of  worship  in 
the  city.  Party-colored  bricks  and  pointing  give  its  walls  a  light,  airy 
appearance,  and  it  has  a  handsome  portico,  flanked  by  two  towers  capped 
with  tinted  cupolas.  The  Gothic  windows  are  filled  with  beautifully 
stained  glass.  One  of  the  most  interesting  relics  of  the  early  church 
history  of  New  Orleans  is  the  old  Ursidine  Convent  in  Chartres  St. 
This  quaint  and  venerable  building  was  erected  in  1*787,  during  the 
reign  of  Carlos  III,  by  Don  Andre  Almonaster.  It  is  now  occupied  by 
the  archbishop,  and  is  known  as  the  "Archbishop's  Palace."  The 
Chapelle  St.  Roch,  in  the  French  quarter,  is  well  worth  a  visit;  and 
there  young  ladies  who  offer  prayers  on  certain  occasions  are  said  to  be 
rewarded  by  speedy  marriage. 


556  NEW  ORLEANS.  [Route  128. 

The  Tulane  University  of  Louisiana,  formerly  the  University 
of  Louisiana,  but  now  largely  endowed  by  the  late  Paul  Tulane,  occu- 
pies the  south  half  of  the  square  bounded  by  Tulane  Ave.,  Baronne, 
and  Dryades  Sts.  It  embraces  complete  faculties  of  arts,  letters,  sci- 
ence, law,  and  medicine.  The  Sophie  Newcomh  College  for  Girls  occu- 
pies the  old  Burnside  Mansion,  on  Washington  Ave.,  between  Chestnut 
and  Coliseum  Sts.  Leland  University,  Straight  TJniversity,  and  the 
Southeryi  University  are  exclusively  for  colored  students,  and  give  in- 
struction of  good  grammar-school  grade.  The  *  Charity  Hospital, 
in  Tulane  Ave.,  is  one  of  the  most  famous  institutions  of  the  kind  in 
the  country.  It  was  founded  in  1784,  has  stood  on  its  present  site  since 
1832,  and  has  accommodations  for  800.  patients.  The  Hotel  Dieu,  half 
a  mile  farther  back  from  the  river,  is  a  very  fine  hospital  established 
by  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  and  supported  entirely  by  receipts  from  pa- 
tients, some  of  whom  are,  nevertheless,  beneficiary.  It  occupies  a  full 
square,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  well-kept  garden  of  shrubbery  and  flow- 
ers. The  Touro  Infirmary,  in  Prytania  between  Aline  and  Toucher 
Sts.,  principally  supported  by  Jewish  charity,  but  open  to  patients  of 
all  creeds,  is  a  model  hospital,  built  upon  the  pavilion  plan,  with  a 
large  garden  in  the  center.  A  free  clinic  is  operated  in  connection 
with  the  institution.  Other  prominent  charitable  institutions  are  the 
Poydras  Female  Orphan  Asylum  (in  Magazine  St.),  the  Jewish  Widous^ 
and  Orphatis^  Home  (cor.  St.  Charles  and  Peters  Aves.),  the  St.  Anna's 
Widows'  Asylum,  the  St.  Vincent  Orphan  Asylum,  the  Shakespeare 
Aims-House,  the  German  Protestant  Asylum,  and  the  Indigent  Colored 
Orphan  Asylum..  The  Howard  xissociation  is  one  of  the  greatest  char- 
itable bodies  in  the  world,  its  special  mission  being  to  labor  for  the 
relief  of  sufferers  in  epidemics,  particularly  the  yellow  fever. 

Among  the  pleasure-grounds  of  the  city  is  ^Jackson  Square  (for- 
merly known  as  the  Place  cVArmes),  covering  the  center  of  the 
river-front  of  the  old  Town  Plot,  now  Second  District.  It  is  adorned 
with  beautiful  trees  and  shrubbery,  and  shell-strewn  paths,  and  in  the 
center  stands  *  Mills's  equestrian  statue  of  General  Jackson.  The  im- 
posing fronts  of  the  cathedral  and  courts  of  justice  are  seen  to  great 
advantage  from  the  river-entrance  to  the  square.  Lafayette  Square,  in 
the  First  District,  bounded  by  St.  Charles  and  Camp  Sts.,  is  another 
handsome  inclosure.  The  fine  marble  front  of  the  City  Hall,  the  taper- 
ing spire  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  the  massive  fa9ade  of  Odd 
Fellows'  Hall  present  a  striking  appearance.  In  the  square  is  a  fine 
white-marble  statue  of  Franklin,  by  Hiram  Powers.  In  Canal  St.,  be- 
tween St.  Charles  and  Royal,  is  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Henry  Clay, 
by  Joel  T.  Hart.  Annunciation  Square  and  Lee  (formerly  Tivoli)  Cir- 
cle, on  St.  Charles  St.,  are  worth  a  visit.  The  latter  now  contains  the 
monument  of  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee,  65  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  statue 
in  bronze.  Margaret  Place  is  a  triangle  at  the  junction  of  Prytania 
and  Camp  Sts.,  and  contains  a  memorial  statue  to  Margaret  Haughery, 
who  founded  an  asylum  and  was  distinguished  for  her  charitable  work. 
The  City  Park,  near  the  N.  E.  boundary  (reached  by  Canal  St.  and  Ridge 
Road  cars),  embraces  150  acres.     The  Great  Exposition  of  1884-1885 


Route  128.]  NEW   ORLEANS.  557 

was  held  in  Audubon  Park,  in  St.  Charles  Ave.  In  Horticultural  Hall 
an  exhibition  of  plants  i.s  held,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  a  grove 
of  moss-covered  oaks  that  are  well  worth  visiting. 

The  Cemeteries  of  New  Orleans  are  noteworthy.  From  the  nature  of 
the  soil,  the  tombs  are  above  ground.  Some  of  these  are  very  costly  and 
beautiful  structures,  of  marble,  iron,  etc. ;  but  the  great  majority  con- 
sist of  cells,  placed  one  above  another,  generally  to  the  height  of  Y  or 
8  ft.  Each  cell  is  only  lai-ge  enough  to  receive  the  coffin,  and  is  her- 
metically bricked  up  at  its  entrance  as  soon  as  the  funeral  rites  are 
over.  In  most  instances  a  marble  tablet,  appropriately  inscribed,  is 
placed  over  the  brickwork  by  which  the  vault  (or  "  oven,"  as  it  is  called 
here)  is  closed.  There  are  33  cemeteries  in  and  near  the  city ;  of  these 
the  Metairie  (which  contains  the  grave  of  Albert  S.  Johnston),  Cypress 
Grove^  and  G-reenwood  (on  the  Metairie  Ridge,  at  the  N.  end  of  Canal 
St.)  are  best  worth  visiting.  The  Metairie  Cemetery  contains  a  fine 
bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Gen.  Johnston,  erected  as  a  monument  to 
the  Army  of  Tennessee.  The  Monument  to  the  Confederate  Bead  in 
Greenwood  Cemetery,  and  the  Monument  to  the  Union  Dead  in  the 
National  Cemetery  at  Chalmette,  will  attract  visitors. 

The  great  "  sight "  of  New  Orleans,  and  perhaps  the  most  pic- 
turesque to  be  seen  in  America,  is  the  *  French  Market,  which 
comprises  several  buildings  on  the  Levee,  near  Jackson  Square.  The 
best  time  to  visit  it  is  between  8  and  9  o'clock  on  Sunday  morning,  or 
at  6  A.  M.  on  other  days.  At  break  of  day  the  gathering  commences, 
and  it  would  seem  as  if  all  nations  and  tongues  were  represented  in  the 
motley  crowd  which  surges  in  and  out  until  near  10  o'clock.  French 
is  the  prevailing  language,  and  it  will  be  heard  in  every  variety,  from 
the  silvery  elegance  of  the  polished  Creole  to  the  childish  jargon  of  the 
negroes.  Canal  St.  divides  the  city  into  two  parts,  the  old  and  the  new. 
That  toward  the  N.  E.  is  the  French  Quarter^  and  there  one  meets 
"  odd  little  balconies  and  galleries  that  jut  out  from  the  tall,  dingy, 
wrinkled  houses,  peering  into  each  other's  faces  as  if  in  an  eternal  con- 
fab." Here  are  queer  little  shops — apothecaries',  and  musty  stores 
where  old  furniture,  brasses,  bronzes,  and  books  are  sold,  and  bird- 
stores  innumerable,  where  alhgators  are  to  be  purchased  as  well.  The 
signs  hereabout  are  all  in  French,  and  that  of  "avocat"  seems  predomi- 
nant. Groups  of  men,  chattering  over  their  cigarettes,  interfere  with 
pedestrianism  in  the  alley,  and  stare  with  Gallic  curiosity  and  gallantry 
after  every  petticoated  individual  that  passes.  A  priest  in  cassock — 
and  he  plump  and  good-tempered,  with  face  shining  like  a  newly-peeled 
onion — leans  laughing  against  the  black  balustrade  of  one  of  the  old 
French  houses.  The  residents  of  the  poorer  localities  are  great  lovers 
of  potted  flowers  and  singing  birds.  Some  of  the  streets  are  rich  with 
color,  owing  to  the  brilliant  red  masses  of  geraniums  that  blossom  boldly 
in  defiance  of  the  hottest  sun ;  and  many  a  tiny  bit  of  iron  gallery  pro- 
jecting in  curious  fashion  out  of  some  tall  window  is  transformed  into 
the  coolest  of  arbors  by  looped-up  cypress-vines.  The  mover's  cart  is 
never  seen  in  this  quarter,  and  many  a  young  matron  fives  in  the  house 
her  grandmother  occupied.     In  these  you  will  find  "  cool,  red,  sanded 


558  NEW    ORLEANS.  [BoUte  128. 

floors,  quaint  spindle-legged  dressing-tables,  cabinets  positiyely  antique, 
rich  with  carvings  and  black  with  age,  mosaic  tables,  pieced  together 
long  befoi-e  the  grand  mosaic  of  these  United  States  was  designed,  and 
over  the  tall,  high,  and  narrow  mantel-shelves  with  their  heavy  cornices 
and  mimic  Corinthian  columns,  reared  about  an  absurdly  small  bit  of  a 
fireplace,  are  gigantic  vases  of  Sevres,  odd  bits  of  Bohemian  ware,  bot- 
tles, and  absinthe-glasses,"  The  Levee  affords  the  visitor  one  of  the 
most  striking  and  characteristic  sights  of  the  Crescent  City.  For  ex- 
tent and  activity  it  has  no  equal  on  the  continent.  The  best  points 
from  which  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs  are  the  roof  of 
the  St.  Charles  Hotel,  the  roof  of  the  Custom-House,  and  the  tower  of 
St.  Patrick's  Church. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  spots  in  the  vicinity  of  New  Orleans  is 
the  Battle-Field,  the  scene  of  General  Jackson's  great  victory  over 
the  Bi-itish,  Jan.  8,  1815.  It  lies  4-}  miles  S.  of  Canal  St.,  and  may  be 
reached  either  by  carriage  along  the  Levee  or  by  horse-cars.  It  is  washed 
by  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  extends  back  about  a  mile  to  the 
cypress-swamps.  A  marble  monument,  70  ft.  high  and  yet  unfinished, 
occupies  a  suitable  site  overlooking  the  ground,  and  serves  to  com- 
memorate the  victory.  A  National  Cemetery  occupies  the  S.  W.  corner 
of  the  field.  Between  the  Battle-Field  and  the  city  the  Ursuline  Con- 
vent, an  imposing  building  200  ft.  long,  overlooks  the  river.  Lake 
Pontchartrain^  5  miles  N.  of  the  city,  is  famous  for  its  fish  and  game 
It  is  40  miles  long  and  24  miles  wide.  It  is  reached  by  three  lines  of 
railway  with  cars  drawn  by  steam,  and  by  drive  in  carriages  on  a  fine 
shell-road.  At  the  lake-side  are  extensive  pleasure  resorts,  embracing 
hotels,  public  gardens,  summer  theatres,  and  concert  halls,  all  illumin- 
ated by  electric  light.  Carrollton,  in  the  N.  suburbs,  has  many  fine  public 
gardens  and  private  residences.  Algiers,  opposite  New  Orleans  (reached 
by  ferry),  has  extensive  dry-docks  and  ship-yards.  Gretna,  on  the  same 
side,  is  a  pretty  rural  spot,  abounding  in  pleasant,  shady  walks. 

Itineraries. 

The  following  series  of  excursions  has  been  prepared  so  as  to  enable  the 
visitor  whose  time  is  limited  to  see  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible  in  the  least 
amount  of  time.  Each  excursion  is  planned  to  occupy  a  single  day,  but  the  vis- 
itor can  readily  spend  more  time,  as  special  features  crowd  upon  his  attention. 

1.  Start  from  Clay  Statue  on  Canal  St.,  at  the  junction  of  Royal 
and  St.  Charles  Sts.,  and  walk  to  the  Custom-House,  cor.  of  Canal  and 
Peters  Sts.  Visit  the  Marble  Hall  and  Post-Office,  then  go  to  the  top 
of  the  building,  where  a  superb  view  of  the  city,  and  especially  the 
Mississippi  River,  can  be  obtained.  Take  the  Esplanade  and  Levee 
car  in  front  of  the  Custom-House,  which  runs  along  the  Levee,  to  the 
French  Market,  a  scene  of  much  interest.  Visit  the  market,  then 
cross  over  to  Jackson  Square.  Directly  opposite  is  the  Cathedral  of 
St.  Louis.  From  there  take  a  short  walk  to  the  old  Courts,  which 
should  be  visited.  After  walking  around  in  that  interesting  quarter, 
with  its  old  houses,  cross  over  to  Royal  St.  and  take  the  car  which 
passes  directly  in  front  of  the  St.  Charles  Hotel. 


Route  128.]  KEW   ORLEAKS.  559 

2.  Take  car  at  cor.  of  Canal  and  Bourbon  Sts.,  going  down  Bourbon 
St.  to  Esplanade  Ave.  Stop  at  cor.  of  Esplanade  Ave.  and  Burgundy 
St.,  walk  a  block  to  the  Mint  (visitors  are  admitted  during  ofSce 
hours),  then  take  car  in  front  of  the  Mint,  going  along  Esplanade  Ave., 
and  see  the  finest  residences  in  the  French  pait  of  the  town.  Stop  in 
front  of  the  Jockey  Club,  which  can  be  visited  by  applying  to  the 
president  for  an  admission  card.  Near  the  Jockey  Club  are  the  old 
cemeteries,  where  some  of  the  monuments  of  early  residents  can  be 
seen.  From  the  cemeteries  walk  a  short  distance  to  the  Bayou  St. 
John.  Picturesquely  situated  on  the  other  side  of  the  Bayou  is  the 
City  Park,  famous  for  its  beautiful  oaks.  Take  Canal  and  Rampart 
St.  cars  at  station  in  front  of  the  Bayou,  which  pass  along  Rampart 
St.  in  front  of  some  of  the  oldest  houses,  and  also  pass  the  Congo 
Square,  where  formerly  slaves  were  sold. 

3.  In  front  of  Clay  Statue  take  Meterarie  and  Canal  St.  cars  along 
Canal  St.  to  the  Meterarie  Ridge,  where  the  famous  Howard  and  other 
cemeteries  are.  A  day  might  easily  be  spent  in  visiting  that  cemetery 
and  those  adjoining,  where  the  Confederate,  the  Washington  Artillery, 
and  many  other  beautiful  monuments  are  to  be  seen.  In  the  Howard 
Cemetery,  prominent  among  the  monuments,  is  that  of  Charles  How- 
ard, who  gave  his  name  to  the  spot.  Jefferson  Davis  was  formerly  in- 
terred here. 

4.  Take  Canal  and  Claiborne  St,  cars  at  cor.  Canal  and  Bourbon 
Sts.  to  the  Chapelle  St.  Roch,  a  picturesque  and  beautiful  little  chapel 
in  an  old  church-yard.  It  is  said  that  more  than  one  fair  Creole  girl 
obtained  a  husband  by  going  on  a  "  pilgrimage  to  the  little  chapelle 
and  praying  to  the  good  saint."  Taking  same  car,  return  to  Canal  St. 
and  visit  Tulane  University;  then  go  to  the  Jesuit  Church  of  the 
Immaculate  Conception,  in  Baronne  St.  It  is  of  Moorish  architecture 
and  quite  unique  in  its  style.  The  middle  altar  was  made  in  Rome, 
and  is  of  gold,  studded  with  precious  stones. 

5.  Take  City  &  West  End  R.  R.  in  Canal  St.  and  go  to  Lake  Pon- 
charirain,  West  End,  which  is  the  popular  outdoor  resort  of  New  Or- 
leans. There  are  yachts  which  ply  between  West  End  and  the  Spanish 
Fort,  which  must  be  visited,  and  where  can  be  seen  the  old  fort,  with 
the  cannons  that  were  used  during  the  Spanish  war.  Return  by  taking 
train  at  Spanish  Fort  to  Canal  St. 

6.  Take  St.  Charles  Ave.  car  at  cor.  of  Baronne  and  Canal  Sts.  and 
pass  up  St.  Charles  Ave.,  the  finest  avenue  in  New  Orleans,  lined 
with  handsome  residences,  to  Audubon  Park,  where  the  Exposition  of 
1884  and  1885  was  held,  and  which  afterward  was  converted  into  a 
park.  Within  a  short  walk  of  the  park  is  Carrollton,  where  a  fine  view 
of  the  river  can  be  obtained. 

Y.  A  day  may  be  well  spent  in  visiting  Bay  St.  Louis,  Pass  Chris- 
tian, or  any  of  the  numerous  summer  resorts  along  the  Gulf  coast. 
They  are  easily  accessible  by  frequent  trains  which  leave  the  Louisville 
&  Nashville  R.  R.  station.  Another  trip  of  considerable  interest  is  to  the 
famous  jetties  at  Port  Eads.  These  are  accessible  by  the  river-boats, 
and  there  are  special  excursion-boats  that  make  the  trip.     The  plan- 


5nO  NEW    ORLEANS    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO.       [Boute  IS'. 

tations  on  either  side  of  the  river  are  thus  seen,  as  well  as  the  famous 
Forts  Jackson  and  Philip,  which  took  part  in  the  naval  engagement 
that  resulted  in  the  surrender  of  New  Orleans  during  the  civil  war. 
At  proper  seasons  of  the  year  a  visit  to  the  sugar  plantations  will  be 
found  instructive.  Among  these,  the  McCall  Plantation  in  Ascension 
Parish,  and  the  Kernochan  Plantation  in  Plaquemine  Parish,  are  the 
best.  The  sugar  refineries  of  New  Orleans  are  very  large,  and  worthy 
of  visiting  if  the  tourist  is  interested  in  technical  processes. 

129.  New  Orleans  to  San  Francisco. 

a.  Via  '■''Sunset  Route''''  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Co.     Distance,  2 .,4-92 
miles. 

This  is  a  direct  and  popular  route  between  New  Orleans  and  the  Pacific 
coast,  passing  through  a  region  of  great  variety  of  scenery  and  industrial  pur- 
suits, much  of  which  is  unique  and  interesting.  Tickets  are  sold  through  to 
San  Francisco  at  all  principal  Eastern  and  Northern  cities,  from  which  points 
to  New  Orleans  there  is  a  through  sleeping-car  service,  connecting  with  daily 
buffet-car  service  at  New  Orleans  for  San  Francisco.  The  line  is  admirably 
equipped,  both  as  to  road-bed  and  rolling-stock,  and  the  cars  are  of  the  latest 
improved  patterns.  The  low  latitude  along  which  this  line  runs  makes  the  ab- 
sence of  snow  in  winter  a  desirable  feature. 

The  Mississippi  River  is  crossed  from  New  Orleans  to  Algiers. 
The  tropical  character  of  the  region  comes  prominently  into  notice  at 
Shriever,  55  miles  from  New  Orleans.  Large  trees  draped  with  Span- 
ish moss,  bayous  with  mirror-like  surfaces  reflecting  the  luxurious  verd- 
ure on  their  banks,  and  the  prevalence  of  giant  magnolia-trees,  and,  in 
season,  the  perfume  of  their  handsome  blossoms,  give  a  distinct  char- 
acter to  the  scenery.  The  country  is  perfectl}'  level,  with  the  exception 
of  an  isolated  low  hill  here  and  there.  Comfortable  farm-houses  with 
wide  verandas,  placed  amid  great  plantations  of  sugar-cane,  cotton,  and 
tobacco,  make  an  interesting  picture.  Lafayette  (144  miles),  on  Bayou 
Vermilion,  which  is  navigable  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  an  attractive 
town.  Lake  Charles  (218  miles)  is  an  important  town  on  Lake  Charles, 
which  is  connected  wit||  the  gulf  by  the  Calcasieu  River.  Orange, 
Texas  (257  miles),  the  seat  of  Orange  County,  is  on  the  Orange  River, 
which  is  the  dividing-line  between  Louisiana  and  Texas,  This  is  the 
great  lumber  region  of  Texas,  contrasting  strongly  with  the  plains  far- 
ther west.  Beaamont  (2*78  miles)  is  another  town  in  the  lumber  coun- 
try, Houston  (362  miles;  see  Route  103,  a)  is  an  important  city;  it  is 
a  railroad  center,  and  connects  with  the  Gulf  by  Buffalo  Bayou ;  it  has 
several  large  cotton-compresses,  and  is  the  distributing  point  for  south- 
eastern Texas.  Beyond  this  lies  a  fine  stretch  of  oak-timbered  country 
and  a  number  of  attractive  towns.  San  Antonio  (571  miles)  has  a  popu- 
lation of  37,673,  and  is  described  in  Route  103,  a.  The  railroad  touches 
the  Rio  Grande  at  Del  Rio  (741  miles),  and  15  miles  beyond  crosses 
Devil's  River.  Some  very  fine  scenery  in  the  grand  gorge  of  the  river 
is  encountered  as  the  road  ascends  the  stream.  After  leaving  the  river 
the  open  plains  are  traversed  to  El  Paso,  the  otherwise  dull  aspect  of 
the  country  being  relieved  by  mountain-ranges  in  the  distance.     At  £!l 


Route  129.]      NEW    ORLEANS    TO    SAN    FEANOISCO.  561 

Faso  (see  Route  102)  the  road  connects  with  the  Atchison,  Topeka  & 
Santa  Fe  and  the  Mexican  Central  R.  Rs.  (For  the  further  journey  to 
San  Francisco,  see  Route  91.) 

b.  Via  Texas  ct  Pacific  R.  R. 

The  Texas  &  Pacific  R.  R.  extends  from  New  Orleans  to  El  Paso,  Texas 
(1,157  m.),  and  the  route  is  thence  by  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.  to  San  Francisco 
(2,435  m.j.  Two  trains  a  day  leave  New  Orleans  for  San  Francisco,  and  the 
route  is  furnished  with  the  most  improved  conveniences  for  the  comfort  of  the 
passenger.    Every  train  is  equipped  with  palace  sleeping-coaches. 

As  far  as  Donaldsonville  (64  miles)  the  route  follows  closely  the 
course  of  the  river.  At  Beef  on  Rouge  Junction  (89  miles)  a  short  branch 
diverges  to  West  Baton  Rouge,  immediately  opposite  to  which,  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  is  Baton  Rouge  (see  Route  133).  At  Cheney- 
ville  (lYO  miles)  connection  is  made  with  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R. 
Alexandria  (194  miles,  population  2,861),  capital  of  Rapides  Parish, 
is  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Red  River,  which  gives  it  an  important  water 
traffic.  It  exports  cotton,  rice,  sugar,  and  fruits,  and  has  a  fine  court- 
house, a  bank,  and  a  number  of  schools  and  churches.  Shreveport 
(326  miles)  is  an  enterprising  city  of  11,979  population,  situated  on 
the  W.  bank  of  the  Red  River,  near  Soda  Lake,  and  is  one  of  the 
principal  points  on  this  important  waterway.  Steamboats  ply  regularly 
to  New  Orleans.  The  city  contains  a  handsome  court-house,  1 1  churches, 
3  banks  and  banking-houses,  and  a  number  of  steam  mills,  factories, 
and  machine-shops.  Cattle  and  cotton  are  the  chief  articles  of  export. 
The  next  place  of  importance  is  Marshall,  Texas  (362  miles),  where 
the  New  Orleans  Division  unites  with  the  main  line  of  the  Texas  & 
Pacific  R.  R.  The  city  has  a  population  of  '7,207  people,  and  is  grow- 
ing fast.  Here  are  located  the  headquarters  and  machine-shops  of  the 
road.  In  addition  to  the  court-house  and  a  number  of  churches  and 
schools,  the  city  has  a  Woman^s  College  and  the  Wileg  University, 
which  was  founded  in  18Y3.  Longview  (386  miles)  is  the  place  of  junc- 
tion with  the  International  &  Great  Northern  R.  R.  and  with  the  Texas, 
Sabine  Valley  &  Northwestern  R.  R.  At  Mineola  (432  miles)  intersection 
is  made  with  a  branch  of  the  International  &  Great  Northern  R.  R.  For 
description  of  Dallas  (510  miles)  see  Route  102  a.  Fort  Worth  (547 
miles)  has  a  population  of  23,076  people,  and  is  the  beginning  of  the 
Rio  (rrande  Div.  of  the  line,  and  here  also  intersects  the  Gulf,  Colorado 
&  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  Cisco  (657  miles)  is  at  the  junction  with  the  Texas 
Central  R.  R.  The  many  stations  on  the  line  between  this  point  and 
El  Paso  are  unimportant.  The  middle  and  western  portions  of  Texas 
tributary  to  the  railroad  constitute  a  pastoral  region  of  unsurpassed 
attraction  to  cattle-raisers,  and  it  is  on  this  industry  that  this  section 
of  the  State  mostly  depends.  As  we  approach  El  Paso  (1,157  miles) 
the  country  becomes  mountainous,  and  the  mining  industry  begins  to 
assume  importance,  the  geological  characteristics  being  identical  with 
those  of  southern  New  Mexico  and  eastern  Arizona.  El  Paso  and  the 
further  route  are  described  in  Route  102.  (For  description  of  San 
Francisco  (2,439  miles)  see  Route  91.) 


562  VIEGINIA    MINERAL    SPETNG8.  \Route   ISO. 

130.  The  Virginia  Springs  Region. 

Hotels,  etc.— As  a  general  thing,  the  hotel,  and  its  cottages,  bath-houses, 
and  other  buildings,  are  the  only  houses  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  springs. 
The  charges  at  the  springs  are  from  $2  to  $3  a  day;  |30  to  $70  per  month. 
Other  expenses  are  light.  Horses  may  be  hired  in  the  country  for  $1.50  a  day. 
At  the  springs,  the  charges  for  horses  and  vehicles  are  higher,  but  very  moder- 
ate in  comparison -with  the  liveries  of  Northern  resorts.  Carriages  seating  four 
may  usually  be  hired  for  $5  a  day.  "'  Let  the  tourist,"  says  Mr.  Pollard,  "  oring 
his  fishing-rod,  and  a  gun  to  shoot  deer.  A  common  fault  at  the  springs,  and 
which  is  perhaps  prevalent  at  all  watering-places,  is  the  idle  and  dawdling  life  ; 
but  the  spas  of  Virginia  have  this  great  and  peculiar  advantage— that  instead 
of  the  visitor  being  compelled  to  walk  or  ride  on  a  dusty  thoroughfare,  or  take 
a  paltry  stroll  on  the  beach,  he  may  lose  himself  in  a  few  moments  in  the  neigh- 
boring forest,  where  recreation  may  be  sweetened  with  perfect  solitude,  or  ex- 
ercise'freshened  with  the  mental  excitement  that  makes  it  alike  pleasant  and 
profitable." 

The  most  important  of  the  Virginia  Springs  are  either  directly  on 
the  line  of  the  railways  which  intersect  the  W.  portion  of  the  State — 
the  Baltimore  &  Ohio,  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio,  and  the  Richmond  & 
Danville  R.  R.  (Virginia  Midland  Div.) — or  are  easily  accessible  from 
them  by  stage.  A  convenient  center  for  the  tourist  is  Staunton  (which 
is  reached  via  the  Virginia  Midland  and  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  Rs., 
or  via  the  Baltimore  k  Ohio  R.  R.  from  Harper's  Ferry).  Staunton 
( Virginia  House)  is  148  miles  from  Washington,  has  a  population  of 
6,9*75,  and  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Ridge  Mts.  It  contains  a 
court-house,  ten  churches,  two  banks,  and  a  number  of  important  edu- 
cational institutions.  Among  the  latter  are  the  AiM^itsta  Female  Semi- 
nary, the  Staunton  Female  Seminary,  the  Virginia  Female  Institute, 
and  a  Methodist  Female  Institute.  Other  institutions  are  the  Western 
Lunatic  Asylum,  and  an  institution  for  the  deaf,  dumb,  and  blind. 
Among  the  manufactories  are  the  Staunton  Iron-  }Vorks,  and  a  number 
of  flouring  and  planing  mills. 

Weyer''s  Cave,  18  m.  N.  E.  from  Staunton,  and  reached  thence  by  stage,  is 
one  of  the  most  celebrated  and  the  oldest  known  stalactite  caverns  in  the  United 
States.  It  derives  its  name  from  Bernard  Weyer,  a  hunter,  who  discovered  it 
in  1804.  It  is  situated  on  a  spur  of  a  small  ridge  which  branches  out  from  the 
Blue  Ridge.  The  entrance  is  about  7  ft.  high,  and  there  are  many  apartments 
beautifully  adorned  with  stalagmites,  stalactites,  and  other  objects  of  interest. 
Washington's  Hall,  the  largest  chamber,  is  upward  of  90  ft.  high  and  250  ft. 
long.    Near  by  is  Madison's  Cave,  of  inferior  interest. 

Lynchburg  is  reached  by  Route  122,  a,  and  is  described  in  the 
same.  The  best  route  to  reach  the  springs  region  is  by  the  Chesapeake 
&  Ohio  R.  R.,  which  penetrates  the  central  portion  of  that  region.  The 
F.  F.  V,  (Fast  Flying  Virginian)  limited  train,  leaving  New  York  in  the 
afternoon,  reaches  the  springs  or  stations  (where  conveyances  are  taken 
for  reaching  them)  without  change  from  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Bal- 
timore, and  Washington.  The  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.  is  the  only 
line  over  which  solid  trains  are  run  to  the  Virginia  resorts  in  the  Cen- 
tral Spring  Region.  Those  reached  from  Lynchburg,  however,  are 
much  visited,  and  have  the  advantage  of  being  situated  in  a  more 
picturesque  country  than  those  farther  N. 


Route  ISO.]  VIRGINIA    MINERAL    SPRINGS.  5G3 

The  springs  which,  owing  to  the  facility  with  which  they  are  reached, 
are  much  resorted  to  by  Xorthern  visitors,  are  the  Berkeie^^  Springg, 
situated  in  Morgan  County,  W.  Virginia.  They  are  reached  by  a  branch 
of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  running  from  Hancock  to  the  springs. 
The  surrounding  sceneiy  is  highly  picturesque,  and  the  spot  possesses 
historic  and  social  associations  as  connected  with  Washington,  who  fre- 
quently visited  it.  From  a  remote  period  it  has  been  the  resort  of  large 
numbers  of  people  from  the  lower  Yalley  of  Virginia  and  Maryland  ; 
and  was  a  popular  watering-place  as  far  i3ack  as  1816,  when  Paulding 
visited  it  and  described  it  in  his  "  Letters  from  the  South."  The  waters 
flow  from  five  springs  at  the  rate  of  2,000  gallons  per  minute.  The 
temperature  is  '74°  Fahr.  The  bathing-pools  are  very  large,  and  rank 
with  the  finest  in  Virginia.  The  water  is  not  remarkable  for  its  cura- 
tive properties,  and  is  but  slightly  impregnated  with  mineral  ingredi- 
ents, but  the  bathing  is  highly  invigorating.  The  main  building  is  a 
commodious  hotel,  in  which  dancing  takes  place  nightly  throughout  the 
season. — Capon  Springs  is  a  highly  popular  resort  near  the  top  of 
the  Xorth  Mountain,  16  miles  from  Capon  Boad,  on  the  Valley  Div.  of 
the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (113  miles  from  Baltimore),  where  stages 
meet  the  guests.  The  Capon  Springs  Hotel  ($30  to  $60  a  month)  is  an 
excellent  hotel,  with  several  cottages  attached,  furnishing  accommoda- 
tions for  about  750  guests.  Fronting  the  Mountain  House  is  the  bath- 
ing establishment,  presenting  a  beautiful  colonnade  front  of  280  ft.,  with 
a  central  building  two  stories  high,  42  by  30  ft.,  containing  parlors,  etc., 
for  the  use  of  bathers.  The  Capon  water  contains  silicic  acid,  magnesia, 
soda,  bromine,  iodine,  and  carbon  dioxide  gas ;  and  is  recommended  for 
idiopathic  and  sympathetic  affections  of  the  nervous  system,  various 
forms  of  dyspepsia,  chronic  diarrhoea,  irritation  of  the  intestinal  canal, 
and  gravel.  Candy^s  Castle,  the  Tea-Tahle,  and  other  curiosities  of 
the  region  are  accessible  from  this  watering-place. — The  Rawley 
Springs  are  situated  in  Rockingham  County,  11  miles  by  stage  from 
Harrisonburg  on  the  Valley  Div.  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (181 
miles  from  Baltimore).  The  hotel  accommodations  are  excellent,  the 
grounds  are  tastefully  improved,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  is  very 
attractive.  The  Rawley  water  is  a  compound  chalybeate,  is  alterative 
and  tonic  in  its  effects,  and  is  held  to  be  remedial  in  those  chronic  dis- 
eases which  are  characterized  by  low  and  deficient  vital  action. 

The  most  famous  and  most  frequented  of  all  the  West  Virginia  re- 
sorts are  the  White  Sulphur  Springs,  in  Greenbrier  County,  on  the 
line  of  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  91  miles  W.  of  Staunton  and  227 
miles  from  Richmond.  The  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Springs  is  very 
beautiful.  About  50  acres  are  occupied  by  the  hotels  and  cottages  and 
the  surrounding  lawns  and  walks,  which  are  admirably  kept.  The  ad- 
jacent scenery  is  unsurpassed  in  beauty  and  picturesqueness.  Kate's 
Mountain,  which  recalls  some  heroic  exploits  of  an  Indian  maiden  of 
long  ago,  is  one  fine  point  in  the  scene  southward ;  while  the  Greenbrier 
Hills  lie  2  miles  away,  toward  the  W.,  and  the  lofty  Alleghanies  tower 
up  majestically  on  the  X.  and  E.  It  is  not  known  precisely  at  what  pe- 
riod this  spring  was  discovered.    Though  the  Indi  ns  undoubtedly  knew 


564  VIRGINIA    MINERAL    SPRINGS.  [Route   130. 

its  virtues,  there  is  no  record  of  its  being  used  by  the  whites  until  17*78. 
Log-cabins  were  first  erected  on  the  spot  in  1 784-86,  and  the  place 
began  to  assume  something  of  its  present  aspect  about  1820.  Since 
then  it  has  been  yearly  improved,  until  it  is  capable  of  pleasantly  hous- 
ing some  1,500  guests.  The  spring  bubbles  up  from  the  earth  in  the 
lowest  part  of  the  valley,  and  is  covered  by  a  pavilion,  formed  of  12 
Ionic  columns,  supporting  a  dome,  crowned  by  a  statue  of  Hygeia. 
Its  effect  is  alterative  and  stimulant,  and  it  is  considered  beneficial  in 
cases  of  dyspepsia,  liver-disease,  nervous  diseases,  cutaneous  diseases, 
rheumatism,  and  gout.  The  position  of  the  White  Sulphur  is  central 
to  nearly  all  the  prominent  springs  of  the  region,  which  may  thus  be 
conveniently  visited  in  turn.  The  Hot  Spring  is  38  miles  distant,  on 
the  IS^. ;  the  Sweet  Spring,  17  miles  E. ;  and  the  Salt  and  the  Eed 
Springs,  24  and  41  miles  respectivel3^  on  the  S. 

The  Old  Svv^eet  Springs  are  situated  in  Monroe  County,  and  are 
reached  by  stage  in  9  miles  from  Alleghany ^  a  station  on  the  Chesapeake 
&  Ohio  R.  R.,  86  miles  W.  of  Staunton.  This  watering-place  is  said  to 
be  the  oldest  in  Virginia,  and  to  have  been  frequented  for  its  medicinal 
properties  as  early  as  1764.  The  water  derives  a  peculiar  briskness 
from  the  carbon  dioxide  which  predominates  in  it,  and  is  prescribed  for 
all  the  varieties  of  dyspepsia,  for  diarrhoea,  dysentery,  and  general  dis- 
order of  the  system.  The  springs  are  situated  in  a  lovely  valley,  be- 
tween the  Alleghany  Mts.,  which  bound  the  northern  prospect,  and  the 
Sweet  Springs  Mt.,  rising  on  the  S.  The  hotel  is  large,  and  there  are 
commodious  baths  for  ladies  and  gentlemen.  The  Sweet  Chalybeate 
Springs  are  situated  1  mile  from  the  "Old  Sweet,"  and  8  miles  from 
Alleghany  station.  The  waters  are  chalybeate  and  tonic,  and  the  accom- 
modations for  visitors  ample.  The  temperature  of  the  water  varies 
from  75''  to  79°  Fahr.,  and  the  3  springs  discharge  250  gallons  a 
minute. 

The  Salt  Sulphur  Springs  connect  by  stages  with  Fort  Spring, 
on  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  108  miles  W.  of  Staunton.  This 
watering-place  is  near  Union,  the  county-seat  of  Monroe,  about  24  miles 
from  the  White  Sulphur,  and  is  completely  shut  in  by  mountains — 
Swope's  Mt.,  Peters's  Mt.,  and  the  Alleghanies — the  place  being  near 
the  E.  base  of  the  first  named.  The  springs  were  discovered  in  1805  by 
Irwin  Benson  while  boring  for  salt-water,  which  he  was  induced  to 
hope  for  from  the  fact  that  the  spot  had  been  a  well-known  "lick" 
for  deer  and  buffalo.  The  hotel  and  cottages  have  accommodations 
for  about  400  guests.  There  are  3  springs,  one  of  which  is  styled 
the  "Iodine."  The  Salt  Sulphur  water  is  recommended  for  chronic 
affections  of  the  brain;  for  chronic  diseases  of  the  bowels,  kidneys, 
spleen,  and  bladder ;  and  for  neuralgia  and  the  various  nervous  diseases. 

The  Red  Sulphur  Springs,  in  the  S.  portion  of  Monroe  County, 
are  41  miles  from  the  White  Sulphur,  17  from  the  Salt,  and  39  from 
the  Sweet.  They  are  reached  by  stage  from  Lowell  on  the  Chesapeake 
&  Ohio  R.  R.,  127  miles  W.  of  Staunton.  The  approach  to  these  springs 
is  beautifully  romantic  and  picturesque.  The  springs  themselves  lie  in 
a  verdant  glen  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  lofty  mountains,  and  the 


Route  130.]  riEGINIA    MINERAL    SPRINGS.  565 

hotels  and  cottages  afford  accommodations  for  about  450  guests.  The 
water  of  the  spring  is  collected  in  2  white-marble  fountains,  over  which 
is  a  tasteful  cover.  It  is  clear  and  cool,  with  a  temperature  of  54° 
Fahr.,  and  is  strongly  charged  with  hydrogen  sulphide  gas,  besides 
containing  several  of  the  neutral  salts.  Its  effects  are  stated  to  be 
directly  sedative,  and  indirectly  tonic,  alterative,  diuretic,  and  diapho- 
retic; and  it  is  used  with  advantage  in  cases  of  scrofula,  jaundice, 
chronic  dysentery,  and  dyspepsia,  and  is  a  specific  in  consumption  and 
diseases  of  the  tliroat. 

The  Healing,  Hot,  and  Warm  Springs  of  Bath  Coimty  are 
grouped  together  a  short  distance  N.  of  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R., 
and  are  unrivaled  by  any  others  yet  discovei-ed,  either  in  Europe  or 
America.  They  lie  within  a  short  distance  of  each  other,  and  the  vis- 
itor may  pass  from  one  to  another  in  an  hour  or  two,  through  magnifi- 
cent scenery.  These  springs  are  under  the  control  of  the  Southern 
Improvement  Co.,  which  has  built  a  24-mile  railway  from  Covington,  a 
station  on  the  main  line  of  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  to  Hot  Springs, 
passing  through  Healing  Springs.  The  scenery  around  this  water- 
ing-place is  extremely  agreeable ;  tliere  is  a  fine  cascade  near,  and  the 
Springs  buildings  make  a  charming  little  village,  shining  pleasantly 
through  the  green  trees.  The  waters  of  this  spring  are  stated  to  be 
almost  identical  in  their  chemical  analysis  with  the  famous  Schlangen- 
bad  and  Ems  waters  of  Germany.  Their  temperature  is  uniformly  84° 
Fahr.,  and  the  water  is  regarded  as  highly  beneficial  in  cases  of  scrofula, 
chronic  thi'ush,  obstinate  cases  of  cutaneous  disease,  neuralgia,  rheuma- 
tism, ulcers  of  the  lower  limbs  of  long  standing,  and  dyspepsia,  in  some 
"  hopeless  cases  "  of  which  it  is  said  to  have  worked  cures.  The  Hot 
Springs  are  2-|  miles  from  the  Healing  Springs,  and  are  said  to  be  the 
hottest  baths  in  the  world,  the  temperature  reaching  110°  Fahr.  There 
are  9  springs,  and  9  baths  attached,  all  in  the  grounds  of  the  hotel. 
The  most  marked  effect  of  the  free  use  of  these  waters  is  in  cases  of 
rheumatism  and  torpid  liver,  which  are  promptly  and  remarkably  re- 
lieved. A  bathing  establishment  to  cost  .$150,000,  and  an  elegant 
hotel  to  accommodate  500  guests,  are  in  course  of  construction  at  Hot 
Springs,  which  will  be  conducted  in  addition  to  the  old  hotel,  which  has 
been  remodeled  and  newly  fitted  up.  The  Warm  Springs  were  dis- 
covered by  the  Indians,  and  have  long  been  a  popular  resort.  The 
water  is  very  abundant,  and  is  used  for  bathing  as  well  as  drinking, 
chiefly  the  former.  It  contains  sulphuric,  carbonic,  silicic,  and  organic 
acids,  as  the  first  bases,  and  potash,  ammonia,  lime,  magnesia,  protoxide 
of  iron,  and  alumina,  as  the  second  bases.  The  diseases  for  which  the 
baths  are  beneficial  are  gout,  chronic  rheumatism,  swellings  of  the 
joints  and  glands,  paralysis,  chi'onic  cutaneous  diseases,  and  calculous 
disorders.  At  the  lower  end  of  the  Warm  Spring  Valley  is  the  *  Cata- 
ract of  the  Falling  Springs^  where  a  foaming  mountain-brook  tumbles 
over  a  rocky  ledge  200  ft.  high.  These  springs  may  also  be  reached  by 
a  ride  from  Millboro,  with  a  magnificent  view  from  the  top  of  Warm 
Spring  Mountain,  which  the  tourist  crosses  at  an  elevation  of  nearly 
1,500  ft.  above  its  base  (2,250  ft.  above  the  sea).     On  the  summit  of 


566  VIRGINIA    MINERAL    SPRINGS.  [Route   130. 

the  mountain  is  a  spot  called  Flat  Rock,  from  which  there  is  a  superb 
view  of  the  long  mountain-ranges,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see, 
"  like  a  dark-blue  sea  of  giant  billows,  instantly  stricken  solid  by  Na- 
ture's magic  wand."  On  this  route  is  also  seen  the  curious  Blov)ing 
Cave,  situated  near  the  banks  of  the  Cow-Pasture  River,  The  Sath 
Alum  Springs  are  near  the  E.  base  of  the  Warm  Springs  Mts.,  5 
miles  from  the  Warm  Springs,  and  10  from  Millboro,  with  which  they 
connect  by  stages.  The  waters  issue  from  a  slate-stone  cliff,  and  are 
received  into  small  reservoirs.  The  springs  differ — one  of  them  being 
a  strong  chalybeate,  with  but  little  alum ;  another,  a  milder  chalybeate, 
with  more  alumina;  while  the  others  are  alum  of  different  strength, 
with  traces  of  iron.  The  waters  are  decidedly  tonic  and  astringent,  and 
are  recommended  for  scrofula,  dyspepsia,  eruptive  affections,  chronic 
diarrhoea,  nervous  debility,  and  in  various  uterine  diseases. 

The  Rockbridge  Alum  Springs  are  situated  in  Rockbridge 
County,  and  are  reached  by  Victoria  R.  R.  from  Goshen,  on  the  Chesa- 
peake &  Ohio  R.  R.,  32  miles  W.  of  Staunton,  and  are  also  reached  by 
stage  from  Millboro.  The  springs  consist  of  5  fountains,  issuing  from 
beneath  irregular  slate-stone  arches.  There  are  3  hotels,  which,  with 
cottages,  have  accommodations  for  1,200  guests.  The  waters  are  re- 
garded as  highly  beneficial  in  cases  of  chronic  dyspepsia,  diarrhoea, 
scrofula,  gastric  irritation,  and  diseases  of  the  skin.  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  Jordan^ s  Alum  Springs.  The  waters  possess  qualities  simi- 
lar to  those  of  the  other  alum  springs  in  this  vicinity.  Rockbj-idge 
Baths  are  reached  by  the  line  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  to  Tim- 
ber Ridge,  and  thence  by  stage  4^  miles  to  the  baths.  The  springs  are 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  banks  of  Xoi'th  River,  and  are  surrounded  by 
pictui'esque  scenery.  The  waters  are  impregnated  with  iron,  and  are 
strongly  charged  with  carbon  dioxide  gas.  As  a  tonic  bath  (adapted  to 
nervous  diseases,  general  debility,  especially  after  the  use  of  alterative 
mineral  waters,  and  that  comprehensive  class  of  cases  in  which  tonic 
bathing  is  beneficial)  the  Rockljridge  Baths  are  highly  recommended. 

About  f  of  a  mile  from  BonsacFs,  on  the  Norfolk  &  Western  R.  R. 
(see  Route  124,  «),  are  Coyner's  Springs,  a  favorite  resort  with  the 
people  of  Lynchburg,  from  which  they  are  only  47  miles  distant.  The 
buildings  are  spacious  and  comparatively  new,  and  the  place  has  the 
reputation  of  being  one  of  the  gayest  in  Virginia.  The  waters  are  sul- 
phurous, and,  of  their  class,  mild  and  pleasant.  They  are  recommended 
in  cases  of  difficult,  imperfect,  or  painful  digestion,  enfeebled  condition 
of  the  nervous  system,  chronic  diseases  of  the  bladder  or  kidneys,  salt- 
rheum,  tetters,  indolent  liver,  and  in  some  of  the  affections  peculiar  to 
females. — The  Blue  Ridge  Springs,  in  Botetourt  County,  directly 
on  the  line  of  the  Norfolk  &  Western  R.  R.,  have  lately  become  one  of 
the  favorites  in  Virginia.  They  are  situated  near  the  summit  of  the 
Blue  Ridge  Mountains,  1,300  ft.  above  the  sea,  in  the  midst  of  delight- 
ful scenery,  and  the  air  is  pure  and  cool.  The  Blue  Ridge  Springs 
Hotel  is  excellent;  there  are  a  number  of  commodious  cottages,  and 
the  waters  have  a  special  reputation  for  the  cure  of  dyspepsia.  From 
Shawsville  on  the  Norfolk  &  Western  R.  R.  (see  Route  124,  a),  stages 


Route   130.]  VIRGINIA    MINERAL    SPRINGS.  567 

run  in  2  miles  to  the  Alleghany  Springs,  which  have  long  been 
popular.  The  large  hotel  and  cottages  are  situated  upon  undulating 
ground,  surrounded  by  wild  and  picturesque  scenery.  In  the  neigh- 
borhood (8  miles  distant)  are  the  '^  Puncheon- Run  Falls,  a  wonder- 
ful series  of  cascades,  where  a  mountain-brook  tumbles  for  1,800  ft. 
down  an  almost  perpendicular  ledge.  ^  Fisherh  View  (5  miles  from 
the  Springs)  is  a  point  on  the  mountain  from  which  a  fine  view  of  the 
wild  and  beautiful  scenery  of  the  surrounding  region  may  be  obtained. 
The  Alleghany  water  is  cathartic,  diuretic,  and  tonic,  and  is  recom- 
mended for  dyspepsia,  depressed  biliary  secretions,  costiveness,  scrofula, 
jaimdice,  and  incipient  consumption.  From^i^  Tvnnel,  on  the  Norfolk 
&  Western  R.  R.  (4  miles  from  Alleghany),  a  tramway  extends  1  mile  to 
the  Montgomery  White  Sulphur  Springs,  located  in  Montgomery 
County.  The  Springs  are  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  fine 
scenery,  diversified  by  rippling  streams ;  and  the  buildings  are  unusually 
handsome  and  substantial,  with  accommodations  for  about  1,000  guests. 
The  waters  are  of  two  kinds :  one  a  strong  sulphur,  resembling  that  of 
the  Greenbrier  White  Sulphur ;  the  other  a  tonic  chalybeate.  The  sul- 
phur is  said  to  be  less  cathartic  and  stimulant  than  other  sulphurs,  and 
to  act  more  mildly. — The  Yello^v  Sulphur  Springs  are  5  miles  S. 
W.  of  the  Montgomery  White,  and  3  miles  from  Chridiansburg  on  the 
X.  &  W.  R.  R.,  with  which  they  connect  by  stages.  This  spring  is 
located  high  up  on  the  E.  side  of^he  Alleghany  Mountains,  and,  "  in 
consequence  of  this  elevation,  the  air  is  elastic,  pure,  and  invigorating 
during  the  hottest  days  of  summer."  The  water  possesses  valuable 
tonic  properties,  and  is  delightfully  cool,  the  temperature  in  the  hottest 
weather  remaining  at  55". 

The  foregoing  springs  are  the  most  prominent  and  popular  of  the 
"  Springs  Region."  Among  other  less  frequented  watermg-places  are 
the  Bedford  Alum  Springs,  W.  of  Lynchburg,  near  the  Norfolk  &  West- 
ern R.  R. — The  Grayson  White  Sulphur  Springs,  in  Carroll  County, 
near  the  point  where  New  River  passes  through  the  Iron  Mountain,  and 
connecting  with  the  N.  &  W.  R.  R.  at  Max  Meadows. — The  Sharon 
Alum  Springs,  connecting  with  the  N.  &  W.  R.  R.  at  Wytheville,  25 
miles  by  stage. — The  Pulaski  Alum  Sjyrings,  connecting  with  the  N. 
&  W.  R.  R.  at  Newbern,  10  miles  by  stage. — Rgglestori's  Springs,  in 
Giles  County,  Va.,  near  the  Salt  Pond. — The  Fauquier  White  Sulphur 
Springs,  in  Fauquier  County,  Y  miles  from  Warrenton. — Jordan's  White 
Sulphur  Springs,  in  Frederick  County,  5  miles  from  Winchester,  and 
\\  from  Stephenson's  Station  on  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  This  is 
a  popular  and  agreeable  summer  resort. — The  Orkney  Springs,  in  Shen- 
andoah County,  12  miles  by  stage  from  Mt.  Jackson  on  the  Valley  Div. 
of  the  B.  &  0.  R.  R.  ' 

The  Cliesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  partly  described  in  the  above  route,  forms, 
with  its  connections,  a  great  trunk  line  between  the  North,  West,  and  South- 
west. Its  proper  E.  terminus  is  Newport  News,  Va.  Thence  it  runs  N.  W.  to 
Ricliinond  (75  m.;  see  Route  111),  and  connects  at  Gordonsville  (151  m.; 
with  the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R.,  which  gives  through-connection  from 
Washington  and  all  Northern  points  to  the  West  and  Southwest.  From  this 
point  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.  runs  in  a  nearly  direct  line  W.  through- 


568  MOUNTAIN   REGION.  [Route  131. 

Virginia  and  West  Virginia  to  Huntington,  W.  Va.  (494  m.),  on  the  Ohio  River, 
just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Guyandotte.  Here  the  Lexington  Div.  begins,  run- 
ning to  Lexington,  Ky.  (644  m.).  The  Lexington  Branch  of  the  Louisville  & 
Nashville  R.  R.  is  the  connecting-link  in  the  route  as  far  as  Louisville  (738 
m. ;  see  Route  77).  Hence  the  route  is  by  the  New^port  News  &  Mississippi  Val- 
ley R.  R.,  which  runs  from  Louisville  to  Memphis  (1,130  m.).  From  Washing- 
ton to  Memphis  (see  Route  133)  the  distance  by  this  route  is  1,067  m. 

131.   Mountain  Region  of  North  Carolina,  South  Caro- 
lina, and  Georgia. 

The  great  Appalachian  range  of  mountains,  called  also  the  Alle- 
ghanies,  extends  from  that  part  of  Canada  l3'ing  between  the  New  Eng- 
land States  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  through  the  whole  length  of 
Vermont,  across  the  W.  part  of  Massachusetts  and  the  middle  Atlantic 
States,  to  the  N,  part  of  Alabama.  The  White  Mts.  of  New  Hampshire 
and  the  Adirondack  Mts.  of  New  York  are  really  outliers  of  this  range, 
though  separated  from  it  by  wide  tracts  of  low  elevation.  The  Catskills 
form  a  link  of  the  main  range.  Blue  Ridge  is  the  name  given  to  the 
most  eastern  of  the  principal  ridges  of  the  chain.  It  is  the  continuation 
S.  of  the  Potomac  of  the  same  great  ridge  which  in  Pennsylvania  and 
Maryland  is  known  as  the  South  Mountain.  It  retains  the  name  Blue 
Ridge  till  it  crosses  the  James  River,  from  which  to  the  line  of  North 
Carolina  its  continuation  is  called  the  Alleghany  Mt.  Running  through 
North  Carolina  into  Tennessee,  it  again  bears  the  name  of  the  Blue 
Ridge.  The  extreme  length  of  the  Appalachian  range  is  1,300  miles; 
its  greatest  width  (about  100  miles)  is  in  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland, 
about  midway  of  its  course.  In  all  their  extent  the  Appalachian  Mts. 
are  remarkable,  not  for  their  great  elevation,  nor  for  their  striking 
peaks,  nor  for  any  feature  that  distinguishes  one  portion  of  them  from 
the  rest,  but  for  a  singular  uniformity  of  outline.  While  varying  little 
in  height,  the  ridges  pursue  a  remarkably  straight  course,  sometimes 
hardly  diverging  from  a  straight  line  for  a  distance  of  50  or  60  miles, 
and  one  ridge  succeeding  behind  another,  all  continuing  the  same  general 
course  in  parallel  lines,  like  successive  waves  of  the  sea. 

North  Carolina. 

The  mountain  region  of  North  Carolina,  where  the  Appalachian 
system  reaches  its  loftiest  altitude,  presents  scenes  of  beauty  and  sub- 
limity unsurpassed  by  anything  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  con- 
sists of  an  elevated  table-land,  250  miles  long  and  about  50  broad, 
encircled  by  two  great  mountain-chains  (the  Blue  Ridge  on  the  E.  and 
the  Great  Smoky  on  the  W.),  and  traversed  by  cross-chains  that  run 
directly  across  the  country,  and  from  which  spurs  of  greater  or  lesser 
height  lead  off  in  all  directions.  Of  these  transverse  ranges  there  are 
four:  the  Black,  the  Balsam,  the  Cullowhee,  and  the  Nantahala.  Be 
tween  each  lies  a  region  of  valleys,  formed  by  the  noble  rivers  and 
their  minor  tributaries.  The  Blue  Ridge  is  the  natural  barrier,  divid- 
ing the  waters  falling  into  the  Atlantic  from  those  of  the  Mississippi, 


Route  131.]  M(~»rNTAlN   EEGION.  569 

and  its  bold  and  beautiful  heights  are  better  known  than  the  grander 
steeps  of  the  western  chain.  This  W.  rampart,  known  as  the  Great 
Smoky,  comprises  the  groups  of  the  Iron,  the  IJnaka,  and  the  Roan 
Mountains ;  and  from  its  massiveness  of  form  and  general  elevation  is 
the  master-chain  of  the  whole  Alleghany  range.  Though  its  highest 
summits  are  a  few  feet  lower  than  the  peaks  of  the  Black  Mountain,  it 
presents  a  continuous  series  of  lofty  peaks  which  nearly  approach  that 
altitude,  its  culminating  point,  Clingmanh  Dome^  rising  to  the  height 
of  6,660  ft.  The  most  famous  of  the  transverse  ranges  is  that  of  the 
Black  Mountain,  a  group  of  colossal  heights,  the  dominating  peak  of 
which — Mount  Mitchell — is  now  known  to  be  the  loftiest  summit  E.  of 
the  Mississippi.  With  its  two  great  branches  it  is  over  20  m.iles  long, 
and  its  rugged  sides  are  covered  with  a  wilderness  of  almost  impene- 
trable forest.  Above  a  certain  elevation,  no  trees  are  found  save  the 
balsam-fir,  from  the  dark  color  of  which  the  mountain  takes  its  name. 
N.  of  the  Black  Mountain  stand  the  two  famous  heights  which  Arnold 
Guyot  calls  "  the  two  great  pillars  on  both  sides  of  the  North  Gate  to 
the  high  mountain  region  of  North  Carolina."  These  are  the  Grand- 
father Mountain  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  Roan  Mountain  in  the  Smoky. 
Nest  to  the  Black,  in  the  order  of  transverse  chains,  comes  the  Balsam, 
which  in  length  and  general  magnitude  is  chief  of  the  cross-ranges.  It 
is  50  miles  long,  and  its  peaks  average  6,000  ft.  in  height,  while,  like 
the  Blue  Ridge,  it  divides  all  waters  and  is  pierced  by  none.  From  its 
S.  extremity  two  great  spurs  run  out  in  a  northerly  direction ;  one  ter- 
minates in  the  Gold  Mountain^  which  is  over  6,000  ft.  high,  and  the 
other  in  the  beautiful  peak  of  Pisgah,  which  is  one  of  the  most  noted 
landmarks  of  the  region. 

The  key  of  the  mountain  region,  and  converging-point  of  all  the 
roads  W.  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  is  Asheville  {Battery  Park  Hotel^  Sivan- 
nanoa^  Grand  Gentral  Hotel^  The  Oaks)^  situated  in  the  lovely  valley 
of  the  French  Broad  River,  2,250  ft.  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  an 
amphitheatre  of  hills,  and  commanding  due  of  the  finest  mountain-views 
in  America.  Just  above  its  site  the  beautiful  Swannanoa  unites  with 
the  French  Broad,  charming  natural  parks  surround  it,  and  within  easy 
excursion-distance  is  some  of  the  noblest  scenery  in  the  State.  The 
town  itself  is  adorned  with  many  handsome  private  residences,  the  hotel 
accommodations  are  superior,  and  there  are  good  churches,  schools, 
banks,  and  newspapers.  There  are  five  routes  by  which  Asheville  may 
be  reached  from  the  north,  west,  and  south,  and,  as  each  of  them  pre- 
sents special  attractions  to  tourists  by  the  way,  we  shall  describe  them 
separately. 

1st  lioicte  (all-rail). — From  Salisbury  (see  Route  112,  b)  by  the  Sa- 
lisbury and  Point  Rock  Branch  of  the  Western  North  Carolina  Div.  of 
the  Richmond  &  Danville  System  to  Asheville.  Morganton  {Moun- 
tain Hotel)^  80  miles  from  Salisbury,  is  a  popular  resort,  and  well 
worth  the  attention  of  all  lovers  of  mountain  scenery.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  slopes  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  1,100  ft.  above  the  sea,  and 
a  very  beautiful  view  may  be  obtained  from  any  eminence  in  the  vicin- 
ity.    About  15  miles  W.  of  Morgantown  are  the  Glen  Alpine  Springs^ 


670  MOUNTAIN   REGION.  [Route  131. 

whose  waters  are  of  the  lithia  class,  and  are  said  to  possess  diuretic, 
tonic,  and  alterative  properties.  In  this  neighborhood  the  HawFs  Bill 
and  Table  Rock  are  situated.  The  latter  is  a  high,  bleak  rock  rising 
above  the  top  of  a  mountain  to  the  height  of  over  200  ft.  It  can  easily 
be  ascended,  and  upon  the  summit  there  is  about  an  acre  of  rock  with 
a  smooth  sui^face.  About  25  miles  from  Morgantown  is  the  grand 
*LinnvilIe  Gorge,  where  the  Linnville  River  bursts  through  the 
massive  barrier  of  the  Linnville  Mountains. 

Sd  Route. — From  Spartanburg,  S.  C,  by  the  Spartanburg  and  Ashe- 
ville  Branch  of  the  Western  North  Carolina  Div.  of  the  Richmond  & 
Danville  System. 

3d  Route. — From  Charlotte,  N.  C,  to  Statesville  by  the  Charlotte 
and  Taylorsville  Branch  of  the  South  Carolina  Div.,  or  to  Lincolnton, 
and  by  narrow-gauge  railway  to  Hickory  on  the  Western  North  Caro- 
lina Div.  of  the  Richmond  &  Danville  System.  Near  Shelby  are  Wit- 
soil's  Springs.,  somewhat  noted  aS  a  summer  resort.  This  route  lies 
through  the  famous  *  Hickory-Nut  Gap,  the  scenery  of  which  has 
been  declared  by  some  European  travelers  to  be  equal  in  beauty  and 
grandeur  to  any  pass  in  the  Alps.  The  entire  length  of  the  Gap  is 
about  9  miles,  the  last  5  being  watered  by  the  Rocky  Broad  River. 
The  gateway  of  the  gorge  on  the  E.  side  is  not  more  than  ^  mile  wide, 
and  from  this  point  the  road  winds  upward  along  a  narrow  pass,  hemmed 
in  on  all  sides  by  stately  heights.  The  loftiest  bluff  is  on  the  south  side, 
and,  though  1,500  ft.  liigh,  is  nearly  perpendicular.  A  stream  of  water 
tumbles  over  one  portion  of  this  immense  cliff,  and  falls  into  an  appar- 
ently inaccessible  pool.  From  the  summit  of  the  Gap  there  is  a  most 
impressive  view  in  all  directions. 

4<h  Route. — By  stage  from  Greenville,  South  CaroHna  (see  Route 
122, «),  via  Saluda  Gap,  Flat  Rock,  and  Hendersonville,  to  Asheville  (60 
miles).  This  route  traverses  some  of  the  finest  portions  of  the  South 
Carolina  mountain-region  (described  below),  and  the  entire  I'oad  lies 
through  the  most  enchanting  and  picturesque  scenery.  Flat  Rock, 
once  the  most  frequented  of  Carolina  resorts,  has  been  shorn  of  its  for- 
mer glories,  but  the  lovely  valley  still  contains  some  noble  mansions, 
surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens. 

5th  Route. — By  the  stage  from  Greenville,  South  Carolina  (see  Route 
122,  a),  via  Jones's  Gap  and  Caesar's  Head,  to  Asheville  (about  Y5  miles). 
Ccesar^s  Head  is  a  bold  and  beautiful  headland  in  South  Carolina  (see 
present  route).  Beyond  Caesar's  Head  the  route  passes  near  *  Cashier's 
Valley,  a  lofty  table-land  lying  on  the  side  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  so  near 
the  summit  that  its  elevation  above  the  sea  can  not  be  less  than  3,500 
ft.,  and  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  noble  peaks,  among  which  Chimney - 
Top  stands  forth  conspicuously.  On  the  S.  W.  edge  of  the  valley  is 
*  Whiteside  Mountain,  which  is  in  many  respects  the  most  striking 
peak  in  North  Carolina.  Rising  to  a  height  of  more  than  5,000  ft.,  its 
S.  E.  face  is  an  immense  precipice  of  white  rock,  which,  towering  up 
perpendicularly  1,800  ft.,  is  fully  2  miles  long,  and  curved  so  as  to  form 
the  arc  of  a  circle.  The  ascent  to  the  summit  can  be  made  partly  on  horse- 
back and  presents  no  difficulties,  and  the  view  is  of  surpassing  grandeur. 


Route   131.]  MOUNTAIISr   REGION.  571 

"To  the  N.  E.,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  rise  a  multitude  of  sharply  de- 
fined blue  and  purple  peaks,  the  valleys  between  them,  vast  and  filled  with 
frightful  ravines,  seeming  the  merest  gullies  of  the  earth's  surface.  Farther  off 
than  this  line  of  peaks  rise  the  dim  outlines  of  the  Balsam  and  Smoky  ranges. 
In  the  distant  S.  W.,  looking  across  into  Georgia,  we  can  descry  Mount  Yonah, 
lonely  and  superb,  with  a  cloud-wreath  about  his  brow  ;  60  miles  away,  in  South 
Carolina,  a  flash  of  sunlight  reveals  the  roofs  of  the  little  German  settlement  of 
Walhalla  ;  and  on  the  S.  E.,  beyond  the  precipices  and  ragged  projections, 
towers  up  Chimney-Top  Mountain,  while  the  Hog-Back  bencts  its  ugly  form 
against  the  sky,  and  Cold  Mountain  rises  on  the  left.  Turning  to  the'N.,  we 
behold  Yellow  Mountain,  with  its  square  sides,  and  Short-Off.  Beyond  and  be- 
yond, peaks  and  peaks,  and  ravines  and  ravines  !  It  is  like  looking  down  on 
the  world  from  a  balloon.'' — Edward  King. 

6th  Route. — From  the  north,  west,  or  southwest,  Asheville  may  be 
reached  via  East  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  system  (Route  124,  a) 
to  Morristown,  Tenn. ;  thence  via  its  North  Carohna  Div.  to  Wolf  Creek ; 
and  thence  by  the  Paint  Rock  branch  of  the  Western  North  Carolina 
Div.  of  the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R.,  which  traverses  the  valley  of 
the  French  Broad  River  amid  magnificent  mountain  scenery. 

Having  reached  Asheville  (see  present  route),  the  tourist  may  spend 
days  or  weeks  in  visiting  the  many  picturesque  spots  in  the  vicinity,  or 
in  hunting,  fishing,  or  exploring  the  caves,  mines,  and  Indian  mounds. 
A  few  miles  from  the  town  are  some  white  sulphur  springs,  from  which 
a  variety  of  lovely  views  may  be  had ;  and  9  miles  N.  are  the  so-called 
Million  Springs^  l^eautifully  situated  in  a  cave  between  tw^o  mountain- 
ranges,  where  sulphur  and  chalybeate  Avaters  may  be  had  in  abundance. 
But  the  excursion  which  above  all  others  he  should  not  fail  to  make  is 
that  down  the  *  French  Broad  River,  the  supreme  beauty  of  which 
has  long  been  famous.  Below  Asheville  the  river  flows  through  an  ever- 
deepening  gorge,  narrow  as  a  Western  caiion  and  inexpressibly  grand, 
until  it  cuts  its  way  through  the  Smoky  Mountains,  and  reaches  Tennes- 
see. For  36  miles  its  waters  well  deserve  their  musical  Cherokee  name 
(Tahkeeostee,  "  the  Racing  River  "),  and  the  splendor  of  their  ceaseless 
tumult  fascinates  both  eye  and  ear.  The  railroad  follows  its  banks,  and 
often  trespasses  upon  the  stream,  as  it  is  crowded  by  the  overhanging 
cliffs.  About  35  miles  from  Asheville,  on  the  right  of  the  road,  is  the 
famous  rock  Lover^s  Leap;  and  just  below  it,  where  the  left  bank 
widens  out  into  a  level  plain,  the  Hot  Springs  {Mountain  Park  Hotel, 
open  all  the  year)  nestle  in  a  beautiful  grove  of  trees.  These  springs  are 
also  reached  directly  by  Western  North  Carolina  Div.  of  the  Richmond 
&  Danville  R.  R.,  and  their  virtues  have  been  known  for  nearly  a  century. 
An  analysis  of  the  water  shows  that  it  contains  free  carbonic  acid,  free 
sulphureted  hydrogen,  carbonic  acid,  and  sulphuric  acid,  in  combination 
with  lime,  and  a  trace  of  magnesia.  Though  quite  palatable  as  a  bev- 
erage, it  is  taken  chiefly  in  the  form  of  baths,  for  which  there  are  excel- 
lent facilities,  and  is  recommended  for  dyspepsia,  liver-complaint,  dis- 
eases of  the  kidneys,  rheumatism,  rheumatic  gout,  and  chronic  cutaneous 
diseases.  Five  miles  below  the  springs,  on  the  Tennessee  boundary,  the 
road  passes  beneath  the  bold  precipice  of  the  Painted  Rocks,  a  titanic 
mass  over  200  ft.  high,  whose  face  is  marked  with  red  paint,  supposed 
to  be  Indian  pictures.     Near  by  are  the  Chimneys,  lofty  cliffs,  broken 


5T2  MOUNTAIN  REG-ION.  [Route  131. 

at  their  summits  into  detached  piles  of  rock  bearing  the  likeness  of 
colossal  chimneys,  a  fancy  greatly  improved  by  the  fireplace-like  recesses 
at  their  base. 

Among  the  mountain-ascents  that  may  be  readily  made  from  Ashe- 
ville,  those  of  Mt.  Pisgah  and  Mt.  Mitchell  will  best  repay  the  trouble. 
Pisgah  lies  to  the  S.,  and  commands  an  extensive  view  over  Tennessee, 
South  Carolina,  and  Georgia,  as  well  as  over  the  greater  part  of  west- 
ern North  Carolina.  The  excursion  to  *  Mt.  Mitchell,  including  the 
ascent  to  the  peak  and  the  return  to  Asheville,  can  be  made  in  three 
days,  and,  though  arduous,  is  entirely  free  from  danger.  The  summit 
of  Mt.  Mitchell  is  the  highest  in  the  L^nited  States  E.  of  the  Missis- 
sippi (6,701  ft.),  and  afPords  the  visitor  a  view  of  unsurpassed  extent 
and  grandeur.  Another  attractive  mountain-excursion  (less  often  made, 
however)  is  to  the  Balsam  Range,  lying  to  the  W.  The  route  is  to 
Brevard,  a  pleasant  village  lying  in  the  matchless  valley  of  the  Upper 
French  Broad ;  and  thence  along  the  N.  fork  of  the  river  into  what 
is  called  the  Gloucester  Settlement.  Here  a  guide  can  be  secured,  and 
the  peaks  easily  ascended. 

South  Carolina. 

The  town  of  Oreenmlle  (see  Route  122,  a)  lies  at  the  threshold  of  the 
chief  beauties  of  the  South  Carolina  mountain  region,  and  affords  easy  ac- 
cess to  all  the  rest.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Reedy  River,  near 
its  source,  at  the  foot  of  Saluda  Mountain.  About  20  miles  from  Green- 
ville is  *  Table  Mountain,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  the  natu- 
ral wonders  of  the  State,  rising  4,300  ft.  above  the  sea,  with  a  long 
extent  on  one  side  of  perpendicular  cliffs,  1,000  ft.  in  height.  The  view 
of  these  grand  and  lofty  rock-ledges  is  exceedingly  fine  from  the  quiet 
glens  of  the  valley  below,  and  not  less  imposing  is  the  splendid  amphi- 
theatre of  hill-tops  seen  from  its  crown.  Among  the  sights  to  be  seen 
from  Table  Mountain  is  *  Caesar's  Head,  a  lofty  peak  with  one  side 
a  precipice  of  great  height,  just  back  of  which  is  a  large  hotel.  It  is 
the  highest  point  in  the  vicinity,  and  well  worth  a  visit.  At  the  base 
of  Table  Mountain,  in  a  romantic  glen,  are  the  famous  *  Falls  of 
Slicking,  a  wonderful  series  of  cascades  and  rapids.  They  are  situ- 
ated on  the  two  branches  of  the  Slicking  River,  of  which  the  right-hand 
branch  is  the  more  picturesque.  The  Keoxi^ee  is  a  beautiful  mountain- 
stream  in  Pickens  County,  which,  with  the  Tugaloo  River,  forms  the 
Savannah.  The  route  from  Greenville  to  the  valley  of  Jocasse  lies 
along  its  banks  amid  the  most  lovely  scenery,  and  the  entire  region  is 
full  of  romantic  memories  of  the  Cherokee  wars.  Jocasse  Valley, 
near  the  N.  boundary-line,  is  one  of  the  most  charmingly  secluded  nooks 
in  the  State,  environed  as  it  is  on  every  side,  except  that  through  which 
the  Keowee  steals  out,  by  grand  mountain-ridges.  The  great  charm  of 
Jocasse  is  that  it  is  small  enough  to  be  seen  and  enjoyed  all  at  once,  as 
its  entire  area  is  not  too  much  for  one  comfortable  picture.  It  is  such 
a  nook  as  painters  delight  in.  White  Water  Cataracts  are  an 
hour's  brisk  walk  N.  of  Jocasse.  Their  chief  beauty  is  in  their  pictur- 
esque lines,  and  in  the  variety  and  boldness  of  the  mountain-landscape 


Route  131.]  MOUNTAIN    REGION.  573 

all  around.  Adjoining  this  most  attractive  region  of  South  Carolina, 
and  easily  accessible  therefrom,  are  Tallulah,  and  Toccoa,  and  Yonah, 
and  Nacoochee,  lying  in  Georgia  and  described  below. 

Georgia. 

The  most  convenient  point  from  which  to  visit  the  mountain  region 
of  Georgia  is  Clarksville,  in  Habersham  County,  much  resorted  to 
by  the  people  of  the  "  Low  Country."  It  is  reached  by  the  Blue  Ridge 
&  Atlantic  R.  R.  from  Cornelia,  on  the  Richmond  &  Danville  R.  R.  (At- 
lanta &  Charlotte  Div.) ;  or  by  stage  from  Walhalla  (on  the  Columbia  & 
Greenville  Branch)  to  Clayton.  Fair  accommodations  for  travelers  may 
be  had  at  Clarksville,  and  also  horses  or  wagons  for  the  exploration  of 
the  surrounding  country.  A  few  miles  from  Clarksville  is  the  celebrated 
*  Toccoa  Fall,  where  a  bi"Ook  "  comes  babbling  down  the  mountain's 
side"  and  plunges  over  a  precipice  180  ft.  high.  The  *  Cataracts 
of  Tallulah  are  12  miles  from  Clarksville,  on  the  same  railroad  line. 
From  Toccoa  to  Tallulah  the  cut  across  is  only  5  or  6  miles.  There 
is  a  comfortable  hotel  near  the  edge  of  the  gorges  traversed  by  this 
wild  mountain-stream,  and  hard  by  its  army  of  waterfalls.  The  Tallu- 
lah, or  Tevrora^  as  the  Indians  more  appositely  called  it,  is  a  small 
stream,  which  rushes  through  a  chasm  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  rending  it 
for  several  miles.  The  ravine  is  1,000  feet  in  depth,  and  of  an 
equal  width.  Its  walls  are  gigantic  cliffs  of  dark  granite,  whose  heavy 
masses,  piled  upon  each  other  in  the  wildest  confusion,  sometimes 
shoot  out,  overhanging  the  yawning  gulf.  Along  the  rocky  and  uneven 
bed  of  this  deep  abyss  the  Terrora  frets  and  foams  with  ever-varying 
course.  The  wild  grandeur  of  this  mountain-gorge,  and  the  variety, 
number,  and  magnificence  of  its  cataracts,  give  it  rank  with  the  most 
imposing  waterfall  scenery  in  the  Union.  The  *  Valley  of  Nacoo- 
chee  (or  the  Evening  Star)  is  a  pleasant  day's  excursion  from  Clarksville. 
The  valley  is  said  by  tradition  to  have  won  its  name  from  the  story  of 
the  hapless  love  of  a  beautiful  Indian  princess,  whose  scepter  once  ruled 
its  solitudes ;  but  with  or  without  these  associations,  it  will  be  remem- 
bered with  pleasure  by  all  whose  fortune  it  may  be  to  see  it.  Mt.  Yonah, 
looks  down  into  the  quiet  heart  of  Nacoochee,  lying  at  its  base ;  and  if 
the  tourist  should  stay  overnight  in  the  valley,  he  ought  to  take  a  peep 
at  the  mountain  panorama  from  the  summit  of  Yonah.  Another  in- 
teresting peak  in  this  vicinity  is  Mt.  Curraliee.^  which  is  situated  S.  of 
Clarksville,  a  few  miles  below  the  Toccoa  Cascade.  The  *  Falls  of 
the  Eastatoia  are  about  3  miles  from  Clayton.,  in  Rabun,  the  ex- 
treme N.  E.  county  of  Georgia.  Clayton  may  be  reached  easily  from 
Clarksville,  or  by  a  ride  of  12  miles  from  the  cataract  of  Tallulah. 
The  falls  lie  off  the  road  to  the  right,  in  the  passage  of  the  Rabun 
Gap,  one  of  the  mountain  ways  from  Georgia  into  North  Carolina  ; 
they  would  be  a  spot  of  crowded  resort  were  they  in  a  more  thickly- 
peopled  country.  The  scene  is  a  succession  of  cascades,  noble  in  vol- 
ume and  character,  plunging  down  the  ravined  flanks  of  a  rugged 
mountain-height. 

Union  County,  adjoining  Habersham  on  the  N.  W.,  is  distinguished 


574  THE  OHIO  RIVER.  [Route  132. 

for  natural  beauty,  and  for  its  objects  of  antiquarian  interest.  Among 
these  latter  is  the  Track  Rock,  bearing  wonderful  impressions  of  the 
feet  of  animals  now  extinct.  Pilot  Mouniain,  in  Union,  is  a  noble  ele- 
vation of  some  1,200  ft.  The  Hiawasse  Falls,  on  the  Hiawasse  River, 
present  a  series  of  beautiful  cascades,  some  of  them  from  60  to  100 
ft.  in  height.  The  much-visited  Falls  of  Amicalolah  are  in  Lump- 
kin County,  17  miles  W.  of  the  village  of  Dahlonega,  near  the  State 
road  leading  to  East  Tennessee. 

132.  The  Ohio  Kiver. 

During  portions  of  the  summer  and  in  the  autumn,  when  the  water  is  low,  the 
larger  steamboats  ascend  no  farther  tlian  Wheeling,  and  even  below  th.is  point 
tliey  pass  with  diflSculty.  Those  who  desire  only  to  see  the  more  interesting 
portions  of  the  river  can  take  the  steamer  at  PF7iee?m(7  (see  Route  70),  atParkerx- 
burg  (see  Route  70),  at  Huntington  (see  Route  130),  or  at  Cincinnati,  the  W.  ter- 
minus of  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (see  Route  75).  Those  who  wish  to  see 
the  entire  river  can  take  a  packet  from  Pittsburg  to  Wheeling,  whence  large 
and  comfortable  steamers  ply  to  Cincinnati.  From  Cincinnati  very  fine  steamers 
run  down  the  river  to  Louisville  and  Cairo. 

The  Ohio  River  is  the  largest  affluent  of  the  Mississippi  River 
from  the  E.,  and  was  known  to  the  early  French  settlers  as  La  Belle 
Riviere.  It  is  formed  by  the  junction  at  Pittsburg  of  the  Alleghany 
and  Monongahela  Rivers,  and  has  a  total  length  of  about  1,000  miles. 
No  other  river  of  equal  length  has  such  a  uniform,  smooth,  and  placid 
current.  Its  average  width  is  about  2,400  ft.,  and  the  descent,  in  its 
whole  course,  is  about  400  ft.  It  has  no  fall,  except  a  rocky  rapid  of 
22-J  ft.  descent  at  Louisville,  around  which  is  a  ship-canal  2-J  miles  long. 
The  course  of  the  Ohio  and  of  all  its  tributaries  is  through  a  region  of 
stratified  rocks,  little  disturbed  from  the  horizontal  position  in  which 
they  were  deposited,  and  nowhere  intruded  upon  by  uplifts  of  the  azoic 
formations,  such  as  in  other  regions  impart  grandeur  to  the  scenery. 
For  these  reasons  the  scenery  of  the  Ohio,  though  often  beautiful,  is 
for  the  most  part  tame.  One  interesting  feature  is  the  succession  of 
terraces  often  noticed  rising  one  above  another  at  different  elevations. 
Though  they  are  often  75  i't.  or  more  above  the  present  level  of  the 
river,  they  were  evidently  formed  by  fluviatile  deposits  made  in  distan 
periods,  when  the  river  flowed  at  these  high  levels.  Evidence  is  alto- 
gether wanting  to  fix  the  date  of  these  periods ;  but  mounds  and  earth- 
works, constructed  on  the  lower  branches  of  the  river  fully  2,000  years 
ago,  show  that  the  river  must  have  floAved  at  its  present  level  at  least  so 
far  back. 


LANDINGS.  Miles. 

Pittsburg,  Pa 0 

Economy,  Pa 19 

Rochester,  Pa 29 

Wellsville.  Ohio 52 

Steubenville,  Ohio 71 

Wheeling,  W.  Va 94 

Bellaire,  Ohio 98 

Newport,  Ohio 151 

Marietta,  Ohio 170 


LANDINGS.  Miles. 

Racine,  Ohio ...  249 

Guyandotte,  W.  Va 311 

Huntington,  W.  Va 316 

Ashland,  Kv 319 

Ironton,  Ohio 327 

Greenupsburg,  Ky 337 

Portsmouth,  Ohio 362 

Maysville.  Ky 415 

Cincinnati,  Ohio 476 


Parkeisburg,  Ohio 183  i  Covington,  Ky 47( 


Route   132.]  THE    OHIO    RIYER.  575 

LAJTDINGS.  Miles.  LANDINGS.  MUeS. 

Lawrencebiirg,  Ind 498  EvansYille,  Ind 813 

Madison,  Ind 567  Henderson,  Ky 821 

Jeffersonville,  Ind 617  Mount  Vernon,  Ind 855 

Louisville,  Ky 618  Shawneetown,  111 877 

New  Albany,' Ind 621  Elizabethtown,  111 907 

Leavenworth,  Ind 680  Smithlaud,  Ky 945 

Hawesville.  Ky 744  Paducah,  Ky 9.57 

Rockport,  Ind 769  Mound  City,  111 1,001 

Owensboro,  Ky 778  Cairo,  111 1,005 

The  most  important  places  enumerated  in  the  above  list  have  already 
been  described.  Economy  was  settled  in  1825  by  a  German  sect  called 
"  Harmonists,"  who  hold  all  property  in  common.  Beaver  is  a  busy 
manufacturing  village  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Beaver  River,  from 
which  it  derives  a  line  water-power.  Wellsville  is  an  important  wool- 
shipping  point,  and  contains  a  number  of  foundries  and  machine-shops. 
Two  miles  below,  near  the  mouth  of  Great  Yellow  Creek,  is  the  locality 
of  the  murder  of  the  family  of  Logan,  the  Mingo  Chief.  Steuben- 
ville  (see  Route  73).  Welhburg  is  a  town  of  W.  Virginia,  beautifully 
situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river.  Wheeling  (see  Route  YO). 
Bridgeport^  opposite  Wheeling,  is  connected  with  it  by  a  magnificent 
suspension-bridge.  Bellaire  is  where  the  Central  Ohio  Div.  of  the  Bal- 
timore &  Ohio  R.  R.  crosses  the  river  (see  Route  70).  Marietta  {Na- 
tio'ii  Hotel^  rUhhury)  is  a  flourishing  city  of  about  8,273  inhabitants, 
picturesquely  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and  Muskingum 
Rivers.  It  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Marietta  Div.  of  the  Baltimore 
&  Ohio  Southwestern  R.  R.,  and  the  S.  terminus  of  the  Cleveland  & 
Marietta  R.  R.,  and  has  a  large  trade  in  petroleum,  which  is  obtained  in 
the  vicinity.  It  is  the  seat  of  Marietta  College^  which  has  4  buildings, 
surrounded  by  ample  grounds,  and  a  library  of  25,000  volumes.  On 
the  site  of  the  city  is  a  *  group  of  ancient  works  which  are  described 
by  Squier  and  Davis  in  their  "Ancient  Monuments  of  the  Mississippi 
YaUey."  Parkersbicrg  and  Belpre^  together  with  the  splendid  railway 
bridge  uniting  them,  are  described  in  Route  68.  Two  miles  below  Par- 
kersburg  is  Blennerhassett's  Island,  noted  for  having  been  the 
residence  of  Harman  Blennerhassett,  an  Irishman  of  distinction,  who 
improved  the  island,  and  built  on  it  a  splendid  mansion  for  himself,  in 
1798.  When  Aaron  Burr  was  planning  his  celebrated  conspiracy,  he 
induced  Blennerhassett  to  join  him,  and  to  embark  all  his  means  in  the 
scheme.  Although  not  convicted  of  treason,  Blennerhassett  was  ruined, 
his  house  went  to  decay,  and  his  beautiful  gardens  were  destroyed. 
Pomeroy  {(jrrand  Dilcher  House)  is  the  fifth  place  on  the  river  above 
Cincinnati  in  trade  and  commerce,  and  has  a  population  of  4,726. 
Its  prosperity  rests  mainly  on  the  mines  of  bituminous  coal  within  its 
limits  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  It  is  also  the  center  of  the  salt 
basin  of  the  Ohio  Yalley,  and  there  are  26  salt-furnaces  within  its  limits 
and  in  the  neighborhood,  with  an  investment  of  Si, 000,000,  and  yield- 
ing about  12,000,000  bushels  a  year.  At  Point  Pleasant^  14  miles 
below,  the  Great  Kanawha  River  empties  into  the  Ohio,  and  at  Gkiyam- 
dotte  the  Big  Guyandotte  River  comes  in.  Huntington  is  an  important 
shipping-point,  and  the   railway  connects  here  with  several  lines  of. 


576  THE  OHIO  EIVEE.  [Route  132. 

steamboats.  The  Big  Sandy  River,  7  miles  below  Huntington,  is  the 
boundary-line  between  Kentucky  and  W.  Virginia.  Ironton  is  a  city 
of  10,939  inhabitants,  built  at  the  foot  of  lofty  hills  in  the  center  of  the 
"  Hanging  Rock "  iron-region  (embracing  a  portion  of  S.  Ohio  and  N. 
E.  Kentuckj^),  of  which  it  is  the  principal  business  point.  Its  iron- 
trade  amounts  to  about  $8,000,000  a  year,  and  it  contains  a  number  of 
blast-furnaces,  rolling-mills,  machine-shops,  etc.  Greenupshurg  is  situ- 
ated at  the  mouth  of  Little  Sandy  River,  and  25  miles  below  is  the 
prosperous  Ohio  city  of  Portsmouth  {Biggs  Hoiise)^  beautifully  situ- 
ated at  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto  River,  and  at  the  terminus  of  the  Lake 
Erie  &  Ohio  Canal.  It  is  substantially  built,  and  has  a  population  of 
12,394.  Being  the  entrepot  of  the  rich  mineral  regions  of  S.  Ohio  and 
N.  E.  Kentucky,  it  has  a  large  trade,  besides  numerous  iron-furnaces, 
rolling-mills,  foundries,  etc.  The  Scioto  Valley  is  a  productive  agricul- 
tural district.  A  branch  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Southwestern  R.  R. 
terminates  at  Portsmouth.  Maysville  {St.  Charles^  Central)  is  the 
largest  place  in  N.  E.  Kentucky,  and  one  of  the  most  extensive  hemp- 
markets  in  the  United  States.  It  lies  in  a  bend  of  the  river,  and  is 
backed  by  a  range  of  hills  which  gives  it  a  very  attractive  appearance. 
Its  population  is  5,358,  and  it  contains  several  handsome  public  build- 
ings,    Cincinnati  (see  Route  75). 

The  view  from  the  steamer  when  opposite  Cincinnati  is  remarkably 
fine.  On  the  one  hand  is  the  densely  populated  city,  its  rows  of  mas- 
sive buildings  rising  tier  above  tier  toward  the  hill-tops,  which,  crowned 
with  villas  and  gardens,  form  a  semicircular  background.  On  the  op- 
posite bank  rise  the  beautiful  Kentucky  hills,  at  whose  feet  nestle  the 
twin  cities  of  Covingto7i  and  Newport,  divided  only  by  the  Licking  River 
and  connected  by  a  graceful  suspension-bridge  (see  Route  76,  a).  There 
are  few  places  of  importance  on  the  river  between  Cincinnati  and  Louis- 
ville, and  they  are  separated  by  long  stretches  of  virgin  woodland  and 
plain.  Worth  Bend  (see  Route  78).  The  Great  Miami  River,  4  miles 
below  North  Bend,  is  the  boundary  between  Ohio  and  Indiana.  Baiv- 
renceburg  and  Aurora  are  described  in  Route  78.  At  Carrollton,  74 
miles  from  Cincinnati,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Kentucky  River,  a  navigable 
stream  200  miles  long,  noted  for  its  beautiful  scenery.  Madison 
{Western  Hotel,  Madison)  is  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Indiana,  is 
beautifully  situated  and  well  built,  and  contains  about  8,937  inhabit- 
ants. Several  pork-packing  establishments  are  located  here,  the  trade 
in  provisions  is  important,  and  there  are  brass  and  iron  foundries, 
flouring-mills,  machine-shops,  etc.  Madison  is  the  terminus  of  one 
branch  of  the  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  The  ap- 
proach to  Liouisville  (see  Route  77)  is  very  fine,  affording  an  impres- 
sive view  of  the  city  and  of  Jeffersonville  on  the  opposite  bank.  The 
river  is  here  about  a  mile  wide,  and  is  crossed  by  one  of  the  finest 
bridges  in  the  United  States  (see  the  same).  The  Falls  of  the  Ohio  Just 
below  Louisville  descend  23  ft.  in  2  miles,  and,  to  avoid  this  obstruction, 
a  canal  2i}  miles  long  has  been  constructed  around  them. 

Besides  Xew  Albany  (see  Route  77)  the  only  important  cities  be- 
tween Louisville  and  Cairo  are  Evansville,  Ind.,  and   Paducah,  Ky. 


Route   1S3.]  THE    MISSISSIPPI    RIVER.  577 

Evansville  {St.  George  Hotel,  Sherwood  House)  is  the  principal  ship- 
ping-point for  the  grain  and  pork  of  S.  W.  Indiana,  and  its  manufac- 
tures are  important.  It  is  the  terminus  of  2  railroads,  and  of  the 
Wabash  &  Erie  Canal,  which  extends  462  miles  to  Toledo  (see  Route 
67).  The  city  contains  a  handsome  Court-House,  City  Hall,  U.  S. 
Marine  Hospital,  an  Opera-House,  and  upward  of  30  churches.  The 
population  is  50,756,  and  coal  and  iron  are  found  in  the  vicinity. 
Shawneetoum  is  a  prosperous  village.  Padncah  {Richmond  House)  si 
a  city  of  about  13,076  inhabitants,  on  the  S.  bank  just  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Tennessee  River.  It  is  the  shipping-point  of  the  surrounding 
country,  the  chief  productions  of  which  are  tobacco,  pork,  and  grain, 
and  contains  several  tobacco  and  other  factories.  The  Western  Div.  of 
the  Newport  Xews  and  Mississippi  Valley  R.  R.  passes  through  here  on 
its  way  from  Louisville  to  Memphis.  Cairo  is  situated  at  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  and  has  been  described  in 
Route  84-. 

133.  The  Mississippi  River. 

The  tour  of  the  Missiseippi  River  is  usually  made  in  two  distinct  stages  : 
From  St.  Paul  or  Minneapolis  to  St.  Louis,  or  vice  versa  ;  and  from  St.  Louis  to 
New  Orleans,  or  vice  versa.  A  daily  line  of  commodious  and  comfortable  side- 
wheel  passenger  packets  plies  between  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul  and  St.  Louis. 
The  steamers  plying  between  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans  are  large  and  fine. 
That  portion  of  the  river  above  St.  Louis  is  known  as  the  Upper  Mississippi ; 
that  below  St.  Louis  as  the  Lower  Mississippi. 

The  Mississippi  River,  "Father  of  Waters,"  rises  in  Minnesota,  on 
the  dividing-ridge  between  the  waters  which  flow  into  Hudson's  Bay 
and  those  flowing  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  so  near  the  source  of 
the  Red  River  of  the  North  that  in  times  of  freshet  their  waters  have 
been  known  to  commingle.  It  is,  at  its  source,  3,160  miles  from  its 
mouth,  a  rivulet  flowing  from  a  small  pool  fed  by  springs.  Thence  it 
flows  through  a  number  of  pools  or  ponds,  each  larger  than  the  pre- 
ceding one,  until  it  expands  into  Itasca  Lake,  whence  it  emerges  as  a 
stream  of  some  size,  and  soon  becomes  a  river.  It  first  flows  N.  through 
Cass,  Sandy,  and  other  lakes,  and  then,  turning  toward  the  S.,  rolls 
downward  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  passing  over  more  than  18  degrees  of 
latitude.  Between  the  source  and  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  are 
many  rapids  and  waterfalls,  but  the  only  one  of  any  magnitude  is  the 
Pecagama  Rapids,  685  miles  above  St.  Anthony.  From  these  rapids 
down  to  the  St.  Anthony  Falls  the  river  is  navigable,  and  much  of  the 
scenery  is  very  beautiful.  The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  form  an  insuper- 
able barrier  to  navigation,  and  here  the  St.  Louis  steamers  stop.  From 
St.  Paul  to  Dubuque  the  river  flows  between  abrupt  and  lofty  bluffs, 
distant  from  each  other  from  2  to  6  miles,  and  rising  from  100  to  600 
ft.,  the  valley  or  bottom  being  very  beautiful,  filled  with  islands,  and 
intersected  in  every  direction  by  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  and  by 
the  various  channels  and  "sloughs"  of  the  river  itself.  The  bluffs  are 
principally  of  limestone ;  they  are  almost  uniformly  vertical  and  rugged, 
and  nearly  destitute  of  vegetation,  except  at  the  base  and  summit.  The 
limestone  is  generallv  of  gravish  white,  but  is  stained  and  streaked 
37 


578 


THE   MISSISSIPPI   EIVER. 


[Route  138. 


until  it  is  of  every  hue,  from  that  of  iron-rust  to  that  of  the  white  cliffs 
of  St.  Paul.  There  are  grandeur  and  sublimity  in  every  mile  of  this 
portion  of  the  river ;  but  it  becomes  monotonous  after  a  time,  the  eye 
becoming  surfeited  with,  too  much  beauty.  Below  Dubuque  the  valley 
continues  to  preserve  the  same  general  characteristics,  but  the  bluffs 
are  lower  and  more  like  hills,  and  the  scenery,  though  still  beautiful,  is 
tamer.  Below  Alton  it  begins  to  assume  more  the  appearance  of  the 
"Lower  River"  (as  the  portion  below  St.  Louis  is  called);  and  the 
waters,  tui'bid  and  muddy,  roll  on,  a  mighty  torrent,  between  banks  often 
low,  flat,  and  sandy,  and  the  vegetation  continually  more  and  more 
tropical  in  its  nature. 


Principal  Landings  on  the  Mississippi  River. 


LANDINGS. 


Miles. 


Minneapolis,  Minn 0 

St.  Paul,  Minn  14 

Hastmgs,  Minn 46 

Prescott,  Wis 49 

Eed  Wing,  Minn 79 

Winona,  Minn 160 

La  Crosse,  Wis 194 

Lansing,  Iowa 239 

Prau-ie  du  Cliien,  Wis 269 

MacGregor,  Iowa 272 

Dunleith,  111 335 

Dubuque,  Iowa 335 

Galena,  111 355 

Fulton,  111 413 

Clinton,  Iowa 415 

Davenport,  Iowa 458 

Rock  Island,  111 458 

Muscatine,  Iowa 488 


Burlington,  Iowa. 

Nauvoo,  111 

Keokuk,  Iowa. 


LANDINGS.  Miles. 

Louisiana,  Mo 691 

Mouth  of  Illinois  Eiver 762 

Alton,  111 780 

Month  of  Missouri  River 785 

St.  Louis,  Mo 805 

Cape  Girardeau,  Mo 955 

Cairo,  111 1,005 

Columbus,  Ky 1,025 

New  Madrid,  Mo 1,080 

Memphis,  Tenn 1,255 

Helena,  Ark 1,345 

White  River,  Ark 1,425 

Napoleon,  Ark 1,445 

Young's  Point,  La 1,655 

Vickeburg,  Miss 1,665 

Natchez,  Miss 1,785 

Eed  Eiver,  La 1,855 

Bayou  Sara,  La 1,895 

Port  Hudson,  La 1,905 

Baton  Rouge,  La 1,925 

Plaquemine,  La 1,9.55 

Donaldsonville.  La 1,975 

New  Orleans,  La 2,0.55 


550 

582 

597 

Quincy,  111 641 

Hannibal,  Mo 661 

Between  St.  Paul  and  Hastings  there  are  half  a  dozen  small  villages, 
one  of  them  being  somewhat  noticeable  on  account  of  its  name.  Red 
Rock.,  which  was  given  by  the  Indians,  who  worshiped  a  large  rock  at 
this  point,  which  they  painted  red,  and  called  Wacon,  or  Spirit  Rock. 
Point  Douglas  is  the  last  point  of  Minnesota  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
river,  as  the  St.  Croix  River.,  which  empties  here,  marks  the  boundary- 
line  of  Wisconsin,  between  which  State  and  Minnesota  the  Mississippi 
now  forms  the  boundary -line  for  many  miles.  Red  Wing  (see  Route  8*7,  a) 
is  situated  at  the  head  of  *Iiake  Pepin,  an  expansion  of  the  river, 
about  30  miles  long,  and  3  miles  in  average  width.  By  many  this  is 
considered  the  most  Ibeautiful  portion  of  the  Mississippi.  The  bluffs  on 
either  side  present  peculiar  characteristics,  which  are  found  in  such 
perfection  nowhere  else ;  grim  castles  seem  only  to  want  sentries  to  be 
perfect,  and  all  the  fantastic  forms  into  which  the  action  of  the  weather 
can  transform  limestone  cliffs  are  to  be  seen.  The  forests  reach  to  the 
river-bank,  and  the  water  is  so  beautifully  clear  that  fish  may  be  seen 
many  feet  below  the  surface.     Just  below  Red  Wing  is  Barn  Bluff ,  a 


Route  133.]  THE  ]SnsSlSSIPPI  RIVER.  579 

well-known  landmark,  200  ft.  high.  Frontenac  lies  in  the  center  of  the 
lake-region,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  in  summer  on  account  of  its  fine 
scenery,  and  the  hunting,  bathing,  fishing,  and  sailing,  which  it  affords 
(see  Route  87,  a).  *  Maiden  Rock,  3  miles  belov\'  Frontenac,  is  a  prom- 
ontory 409  ft.  high,  near  the  lower  end  of  the  lake,  on  the  E.  side. 
Its  name  is  derived  from  an  incident  which  is  reported  to  have  happened 
about  the  commencement  of  the  present  century.  A  young  Dakota 
maiden,  named  Winona,  loved  a  young  hunter ;  but  her  parents  wished 
her  to  marry  a  warrior  of  the  Wabashaw  tribe,  to  which  they  belonged, 
and  tried  to  compel  her  to  accede  to  their  wishes.  On  the  day  before 
that  appointed  for  the  marriage  she  went  to  the  verge  of  this  precipice, 
and  commenced  chanting  her  death-song.  Her  relatives  and  friends,  see- 
ing her  on  the  brink  of  destruction,  called  to  her  that  they  would  yield 
to  her  wishes ;  but  she  did  not  believe  them,  and,  before  any  one  could 
reach  her,  she  leaped  over  the  precipice,  and  was  dashed  to  pieces  on 
the  rocks  below.  Reed''s  Landing  is  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Pepin,  where 
the  river  again  contracts,  and  is  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Cliippeiva 
River,  a  navigable  lumbering-stream. 

Xear  Fountain  City  (48  miles  below  Lake  Pepin)  is  the  famous 
*  Chimney  Rock,  and  between  this  point  and  Winona  there  are  12 
miles  of  remarkably  fine  scenery,  in  which  are  seen  bluffs  conical  in 
form  and  covered  with  verdure,  others  with  precipitous  fronts  worn  by 
the  weather  into  most  fantastic  shapes,  the  river  lake-like,  and  almost 
filled  with  islands.  Winona  is  described  in  Route  8Y,  a.  Below  Winona 
the  scenery  continues  bold  and  striking,  and  20  miles  down  is  *Trem- 
pealeau  Island  (sometimes  called  Mountain  Island),  a  rocky  island, 
300  to  500  ft.  in  height,  and  one  of  the  most  noted  landmarks  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi.  There  is  a  winding  path  up  Trempealeau,  and  the 
view  from  the  summit  is  exquisite.  La  Crosse  (see  Route  87,  a).  Ail 
this  portion  of  the  river  from- La  Crosse  to  Dubuque  is  delightful,  from 
the  great  variety  of  the  scenery,  the  wooded  hills,  and  the  exquisite ly 
pure  character  of  the  water,  which  is  clear  and  limpid  as  that  of  Lake 
Leman.  The  bluffs  alternate  from  massive,  densely  wooded  hills  to 
long  walls  of  limestone,  which  front  precipitously  on  the  river,  and  as- 
sume all  manlier  of  quaint,  fantastic,  and  striking  shapes.  Rivers  and 
rivulets  come  in  at  intervals,  and  the  rapid  succession  of  the  towns  in- 
dicates a  more  thickly-settled  region.  Prairie  du  Chien  has  already 
been  described  in  Route  85,  h.  Just  above  Dubuque  one  of  the  landmarks 
of  the  pilots  of  the  upper  river  is  pointed  out — *  Eagle  Rock,  a 
splendid  bluff,  500  ft.  high.  Dubuque  (Jidien  House,  Lorimier), 
the  third  largest  city  of  Iowa,  containing  30,311  inhabitants,  is  built 
oartly  upon  a  terrace,  20  ft.  above  the  river,  and  partly  upon  the  bluffs, 
which  rise  200  ft.  The  lower  or  biisiness  portion  is  regularly  laid  out 
and  compactly  built,  while  in  the  upper  portion  the  streets  rise  pictu- 
resquely one  above  another.  Among  the  public  buildings  worthy  of 
notice  are  the  U.  S.  Building,  of  marble,  3  stories  high,  and  costing 
over  $200,000 ;  the  Central  Ma7'ket,  and  the  4  ward  school-houses.  The 
Methodist  Episcopal,  one  of  the  Presbyterian,  the  Universalist,  the  Con- 
gregational, and  St.  Mary's  (German  Catholic)  Churches,  and  the  Cathe- 


580  THE   MISSISSIPPI   RIVER.  [Route  133. 

dral,  are  imposing  structures,  the  last  three  being  surmounted  by  lofty 
spires.  Dubuque  is  the  commercial  center  of  the  great  lead-region  of 
Iowa,  N.  W.  Illinois,  and  S.  W.  Wisconsin,  some  of  the  mines  being 
within  the  city  limits.  Branches  of  the  Illinois  Central  and  Chicago, 
Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  R.  Rs.  converge  here,  and  the  shipping  business 
is  immense. 

Below  Dubuque  the  character  of  the  scenery  changes,  and,  though 
still  pleasing,  is  decidedly  tamer.  The  most  noteworthy  feature  of  this 
portion  of  the  river  is  the  number  of  important  towns  and  cities  that 
stand  on  either  bank.  Twenty  miles  below  Dubuque  is  the  mouth  of 
the  Fevre  River,  6  miles  up  which  is  Galena,  an  important  city  of 
5,635  inhabitants,  on  the  Northern  Div.  of  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R. 
(see  Route  84).  Fulton  on  the  E.  bank  and  Clinton  on  the  W.  bank, 
with  the  great  bridge  which  crosses  the  river  at  this  point,  are  described 
in  Route  89.  Le  Clair  (25  miles  below  Clinton)  is  at  the  head  of  the 
*  Upper  Rapids^  which  extend  for  1 5  miles  to  Rock  Island.  The  descent 
of  the  rapids  is  exciting,  but  seldom  dangerous.  The  cities  of  Rock 
Island  and  Davenport,  on  opposite  sides  of  the  river,  the  magnifi- 
cent *  bridge  connecting  them,  and  the  extensive  U.  S.  arsenals  on  Rock 
Island,  are  described  in  Route  89.  Muscatine  is  a  flourishing  Iowa  city 
of  about  11,454  inhabitants,  situated  on  a  rocky  bluff  at  the  apex  of 
the  Great  Bend  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  the  shipping-point  of  an  exten- 
sive and  fertile  country,  and  its  lumber  business  is  large.  Burling- 
ton (see  Route  89,  h).  Nauvoo  City  was  founded  by  the  Mormons  in 
1840,  and  contained  about  15,000  inhabitants  at  the  time  of  their  expul- 
sion in  1846  by  the  neighboring  people.  It  is  now  a  place  of  small 
importance.  Montrose  is  at  the  head  of  the  "Lower  Rapids,"  which 
extend  for  12  miles  to  Keokuk  and  greatly  obstruct  navigation.  Keo- 
kuk (see  Route  89).  Quincy  (Tremont  House)  is  one  of  the  largest 
cities  of  Illinois,  with  a  population  in  1890  of  31,494.  It  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  a  limestone  bluff  125  ft.  above  the  river,  and  is  regularly 
laid  out  and  well  built,  containing  many  substantial  business  blocks  and 
handsome  residences.  The  streets  are  lighted  with  gas,  and  the  prin- 
cipal ones  are  traversed  by  horse-cars.  There  are  4  small  parks  and 
several  cemeteries ;  and  about  2  miles  from  the  center  of  the  city  are 
well-appointed  Fair-Gi'ounds  compi'ising  about  80  acres.  Eight  lines  of 
railway  center  at  Quincy,  and  the  trade  of  the  city  is  extensive.  The 
Hannibal  &  St.  Joseph  R.  R.  crosses  the  river  here  on  a  splendid  bridge. 
Twenty  miles  below  Quincy  is  the  flourishing  city  of  Hannibal  {Park 
Hotel)^  with  a  population  of  about  12,857,  important  manufactures  (in- 
cluding foundries  and  car-works,  flour  and  saw  mills,  tobacco-factories 
and  pork-packing  houses),  and  an  extensive  trade  in  tobacco,  pork, 
flour,  and  other  pi-oduce.  After  St.  Louis,  Hannibal  is  the  greatest 
lumber  market  W.  of  the  Mississippi,  and  there  are  numerous  spacious 
lumber-yards.  It  is  one  of  the  northern  termini  of  the  Missouri, 
Kansas  k  Texas  R.  R.  (see  Route  103,  a),  and  several  other  important 
railways  converge  here.  Alton  (see  Route  85).  Three  miles  below 
Alton  is  the  *  Meeting  of  the  Waters  of  the  Missouri  and  Missis- 
sippi Rivers.     This  has  been  pronounced  one  of  the  most  impressive 


Route  133.]  THE    MISSISSIPPI    EIVEK.  581 

views  of  river  scenery  in  the  country.  The  Missouri  nominally  empties 
into  the  Mississippi,  but  it  is  really  the  Mississippi  that  empties,  as  any 
one  can  see  who  ever  looks  upon  the  scene.  St,  Louis  is  fully  de- 
scribed in  Route  81. 

The  scenery  of  that  portion  of  the  river  below  St.  Louis  is  very  dif- 
ferent from  that  above.  "The  prevailing  character  of  the  Lower  Mis- 
sissippi," says  a  recent  traveler,  "is  that  of  solemn  gloom."  The  dreary 
solitude,  and  often  the  absence  of  all  living  objects  save  the  huge  alli- 
gators, which  float  past  apparently  asleep  on  the  drift-wood,  and  an 
occasional  vulture  attracted  by  its  impure  prey  on  the  surface  of  the 
waters ;  the  trees,  with  a  long  and  melancholy  drapery  of  pendent  moss 
fluttering  in  the  wind;  and  the  gigantic  river,  rolling  onward  the  vast 
volume  of  its  dark  and  turbid  waters  through  the  wilderness,  form  the 
leading  features  of  one  of  the  most  dismal  yet  impressive  landscapes  on 
which  the  eye  of  man  ever  rested.  Every  now  and  then  a  stop  is  made 
at  a  small  landing,  or  at  the  towns  and  villages  that  cluster  along  the 
banks;  and  the  clamor  of  lading  and  unlading  causes  a  momentary 
excitement  that  subsides  at  once  as  the  steamer  resumes  her  course. 

About  125  miles  below  St.  Louis  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  River  is 
reached  (see  Route  132),  and  a  somewhat  prolonged  stay  is  made  at 
Cairo  (see  Route  84).  Cairo  is  connected  by  ferry  with  Columbus, 
Ky.,  which  lies  on  the  river  18  miles  below.  Columbus  is  situated  on 
the  slope  of  a  high  bluff,  commanding  the  river  for  about  5  miles,  and 
at  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  was  strongly  fortified  by  the  Confeder- 
ates, who  regarded  it  as  the  northern  key  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. They  collected  in  the  town  and  its  vicinity  an  army  of  30,000 
men;  but  after  the  fall  of  Forts  Henry  and  Donelson,  in  February,  1862, 
it  was  promptly  evacuated.  Island  No.  10  (51  miles  below  Columbus) 
was  the  scene  of  a  terrific  bombardment  b}^  the  Mississippi  River  fleet, 
extending  from  March  16  to  April  17,  1862,  in  which  the  Federals  were 
completely  successful.  The  canal  which  was  cut  to  assist  in  the  invest- 
ment of  the  island,  and  the  remains  of  some  of  the  earthwoi-ks,  can  still 
be  seen  in  passing  the  island.  Ten  miles  below,  in  Missouri,  is  New  Mad- 
rid^ which  was  captured  at  the  same  time  as  Island  No.  10,  both  places 
having  formed  parts  of  one  position,  and  mutually  dependent  upon  each 
other.  This  was  the  first  battle  of  the  war  in  which  the  superiority  of 
gunboats  to  stationary  battei-ies  was  clearly  demonstrated.  New  Mad- 
rid was  settled  in  1780,  and  was  the  scene  of  a  great  earthquake  in 
1811. 

From  Columbus  to  Memphis  the  river  skirts  the  bluffs  of  the  E.  or 
Kentucky  shore,  having  on  its  W.  the  broad,  alluvial  lands  of  Missouri 
and  Ai^kansas.  A  number  of  small  towns  dot  either  bank,  and  at  inter- 
vals spots  are  pointed  out  which  events  of  the  Civil  War  have  rendered 
interesting.  Conspicuous  among  these  is  Fort  Pillow  (148  miles  below 
Columbus),  situated  on  the  first  Chickasaw  Bluff.  It  was  evacuated  by 
the  Confederates  on  June  4,  1862 ;  but  on  April  12,  1864,  was  the  scene 
of  the  shameful  butchery  by  the  troops  under  General  Forrest,  known  in 
history  as  the  Fort  Pillow  Massacre,  concerning  which  the  testimony  is 
conflicting,  and  probably  exaggerated,  on  both  sides.     Below  Fort  Pillow 


582  THE   MISSISSIPPI   RIVER.  [Eoute  1S3. 

a  journey  of  about  100  miles  brings  the  voyager  to  M emphis  {Peabody 
Hotel.,  Gayoso.,  Gaston's),  the  second  city  of  Tennessee,  and  the  largest 
on  the  Mississippi .  between  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans.  It  is  situated 
on  the  fourth  Chickasaw  BlufP,  450  miles  below  St.  Louis,  and  800  above 
New  Orleans,  and  had  in  1890  a  population  of  64,495.  The  city  presents 
a  striking  appearance  as  seen  from  the  water,  with  a  levee  several  hun- 
dred feet  in  width,  sweeping  along  the  bluff.  The  streets  are  broad  and 
regular,  and  lined  with  handsome  buildings ;  and  many  of  the  residences 
on  the  avenues  leading  from  the  river  are  surrounded  with  beautiful 
lawns.  Among  the  larger  buildings  are  the  Cotton  Exchange,  the  Mer- 
chants'' Exchange,  and  the  Appeal- Avalanche  Building,  which  is  regarded 
as  the  finest  newspaper  office  in  the  South.  The  city  extends  over  5 
square  miles.  In  the  center  there  is  a  handsome  park,  filled  with  trees, 
and  containing  a  bust  of  Andrew  Jackson.  The  principal  of  the  six 
cemeteries  is  Elmwood,  on  the  S.  E.  border  of  the  city.  Memphis  is 
the  center  of  a  vast  cotton-trade,  lumber,  grocery,  and  brick  industries, 
and  numerous  manufactures.  There  are  a  JJ.  S.  Custom- House,  four 
theatres,  fine  churches  and  charitable  institutions,  excellent  public  and 
private  schools,  and  the  Cossett  Free  Library.  Memphis  was  captured 
by  the  Federals  early  in  the  war  (June  6,  1862),  and  was  never  after- 
ward held  by  the  Confederates.  This  city  is  a  terminal  point  for  the 
Memphis  &  Charleston  Div.  of  the  East  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia, 
the  Louisville  &  Nashville,  the  Illinois  Central,  the  Kansas  City,  Fort 
Scott  &  Memphis,  the  Little  Rock  &  Memphis,  the  Louisville,  New  Or- 
leans &  Texas,  the  Newport  News  &  Mississippi  Valley,  the  Kansas  City, 
Memphis  &  Birmingham,  the  St.  Louis  &  Iron  Mountain,  and  the  Ten- 
nessee Midland  R.  Rs. ;  and  there  is  an  all-year  river  communication 
with  New  Orleans  by  14  lines  of  steamboats.  There  are  5  ferries 
crossing  the  Mississippi,  and  a  large  railroad  bridge. 

A  short  distance  below  Memphis  the  Mississippi  turns  toward  the 
W.,  and  crosses  its  valley  to  meet  the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  and  White 
Rivers.  The  latter  enters  the  Mississippi  161  miles  below  Memphis, 
and  the  former  about  15  miles  farther  down.  The  Arkansas  River  is 
2,000  miles  in  length,  for  800  of  which  it  is  navigable  by  steamers. 
It  i-ises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  next  to  the  Missouri,  is  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Mississippi.  The  town  of  Napoleon  hes  at  its  mouth. 
Near  this  point  commences  the  great  cotton-growing  region,  and  the 
banks  of  the  river  are  an  almost  continuous  succession  of  plantations. 
Fifty  miles  beloAv  begins  the  growth  of  the  Spanish  moss,  which,  cover- 
ing the  trees  with  its  dark  and  somber  drapery,  forms  one  of  the  most 
notable  features  of  the  river  scenery.  Having  received  the  waters  of  the 
two  affluents  above  mentioned,  the  Mississippi  again  crosses  its  valley  to 
meet  the  Yazoo  near  Vicksburg,  creating  the  immense  Yazoo  reservoir 
on  the  E.  bank,  extending  from  the  vicinity  of  Memphis  to  Vicksburg, 
and  the  valleys  and  swamps  of  the  Macon  and  Tensas  on  the  W.  side. 
Vicksburg  {Hotel  Piazza,  Washington  House)  is  situated  on  the  Walnut 
Hills,  which  extend  for  about  2  miles  along  the  river,  rising  to  the  height 
of  500  ft.,  and  displaying  the  finest  scenery  of  the  Lower  Mississippi. 
It  is  a  well-built  city  of  13, 3^7 3  inhabitants,  the  largest  between  New  Or- 


Eoute   133.]  THE    MISSISSIPPI    RR^ER.  683 

leans  and  Memphis,  and  about  equidistant  from  both.  As  at  Memphis, 
the  view  of  the  city  from  the  water  is  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque 
and  animated,  and  the  pleasing  impression  is  confirmed  by  a  closer  ex- 
amination of  the  town.  Vicksburg  was  founded  in  1836  by  a  planter 
named  Tick,  members  of  whose  family  are  still  living  there.  As  the 
chief  commercial  mart  on  this  portion  of  the  river,  it  has  long  been  a 
place  of  some  note,  but  it  is  more  widely  known  as  the  scene  of  one 
of  the  most  obstinate  and  decisive  struggles  of  the  Civil  War,  After 
the  loss  successively  of  Columbus,  Memphis,  and  New  Orleans,  the 
Confederates  made  here  their  last  and  most  desperate  stand  for  the 
control  of  the  great  river.  The  place  was  surrounded  by  vast  fortifica- 
tions, the  hills  crowned  with  batteries,  and  a  large  army  under  General 
Pemberton  placed  in  it  as  a  garrison.  Its  capture  by  General  Grant 
after  a  protracted  siege  (July  4,  1863)  "broke  the  backbone  of  the 
Confederacy,  and  cut  it  in  twain."  Above  Vicksburg,  at  the  point 
where  Sherman  made  his  entrance  from  the  "  Valley  of  Death,"  is  the 
largest  national  cemetery  in  the  country,  containing  the  remains  of 
nearly  16,000  soldiers. 

From  Vicksburg  to  Baton 'Rouge  the  river  hugs  the  E.  bluffs,  with 
Mississippi  on  one  side  and  Louisiana  on  the  other.  Crrand  Gulf^  in 
Mississippi,  is  a  pretty  little  town  60  miles  below  Vicksburg,  lying 
upon  some  picturesque  hills  overhanging  the  river ;  and  Natchez 
{Bonturas  Hotel)^  60  miles  nearer  New  Orleans,  is  built  on  a  high 
bluff,  200  ft.  above  the  stream.  That  portion  of  the  city  lying  on  the 
narrow  strip  of  land  between  the  foot  of  the  hill  and  the  river  is  called 
"  Natchez-under-the-Hill,"  and,  though  containing  some  important  busi- 
ness houses,  can  make  no  claim  to  beauty.  It  communicates  by  broad 
and  well-graded  roads  with  the  upper  town,  called  "  Natchez-on-the- 
Hill,"  which  is  beautifully  shaded,  and  contains  many  handsome  resi- 
dences and  other  buildings.  The  houses  are  principally  of  brick,  and 
the  residences  are  adorned  with  gardens.  The  brow  of  the  bluff  along 
the  whole  front  of  the  city  is  occupied  by  a  park.  The  principal  build 
ings  are  the  Court-House,  in  a  public  square  shaded  with  trees,  the 
Afasonic  Temple,  the  Catholic  Cathedral,  with  a  spire  128  ft.  high,  the 
Episcopal  Church,  and  the  Presbyterian  Church.  On  the  bluff  adjoin- 
ing the  city  there  is  a  National  Cemetery. 

Natchez  was  founded  by  DTberville,  a  Frenchman,  in  1700,  and  is  replete 
with  historic  associations.  Here  once  lived  and  flourished  the  noblest  tribe  of 
Indians  on  the  continent,  and  from  that  tribe  it  takes  it  name.  Their  pathetic 
story  is  festooned  with  the  flowers  of  poetry  and  romance.  Their  ceremonies 
and  creed  were  not  unlike  those  of  the  Fire -worshipers  of  Persia.  Their  priests 
kept  the  fire  continually  binning  upon  the  altar  in  their  Temple  of  the  Sun  and 
the  tradition  is  that  they  got  the  fire  from  heaven.  Just  before  the  advent  of 
the  white  man,  it  is  said,  the  fire  accidentally  went  out,  and  that  was  one  reason 
why  they  became  disheartened  in  their  struggles  with  the  pale-faces.  The  last 
remnant  of  the  race  were  still  existing  a  few  years  ago  in  Texas,  and  they  still 
gloried  in  their  paternity.  It  is  probable  that  the  first  explorer  of  the  Lower 
Mississippi  River,  the  unfortunate  La  Salle,  landed  at  this  spot  on  his  downward 
trip  to  the  sea.  It  is  a  disputed  point  as  to  where  was  the  location  of  the  first 
fort.  Some  say  it  lay  back  of  the  town,  while  others  say  it  was  established  at 
Ellis's  Cliffs.  In  1713  Bienville  established  a  fort  and  trading-post  at  this  spot. 
The  second,  Fort  Rosalie,  or  rather  the  broken  profile  of  it,  is  still  visible.    It  is 


584  THE  MISSISSIPPI  EIYER.  [Route  133. 

gradually  sinking,  by  the  earth  being  undermined  by  subterranean  springs,  and 
in  a  few  years  not  a  vestige  of  it  will  be  left.  Any  one  now  standing  at  the 
landing  can  see  the  different  strata  of  earth  distinctly  marked,  showmg  the 
depth  of  the  artificial  earthworks. 

The  capital  of  Louisiana,  Baton  Rouge,  is  a  city  of  10,478  popu- 
lation, and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  last  bluff  that  is  seen  in  de- 
scending the  Mississippi.  The  site  is  30  to  40  ft.  above  the  highest 
overflow  of  the  river.  The  bluff  rises  by  a  gentle  and  gradual  swell,  and 
the  town,  as  seen  from  the  water,  rising  regularly  and  beautifully  from 
the  banks,  with  its  singularly  shaped  French  and  Spanish  houses,  and  its 
queer  squares,  looks  like  a  finely  painted  landscape.  It  contains  a  State 
Prison^  Arsenal^  and  the  State  Lutitution  for  the  Deaf  Dumb^  and  Blind, 
founded  in  1852.  From  Baton  Rouge  to  New  Orleans  "the  coast," 
as  it  is  called,  is  lined  with  plantations.  Every  spot  susceptible  of 
cultivation  is  transformed  into  a  beautiful  garden,  containing  specimens 
of  all  those  choice  fruits  and  flowers  which  flourish  only  in  tropical 
climes.     IVew  Orleans  is  fully  described  in  Route  128. 

Those  who,  taking  an  ocean  steamer,  pursue  the  journey  below  New 
Orleans,  traverse  a  portion  of  the  river  not  less  interesting  if  less 
attractive  than  that  left  behind.  Very  soon  after  leaving  the  city  the 
phenomena  of  a  "  delta-country  "  become  conspicuous,  and  one  can  fairly 
^vitness  the  eternal  and  ever-varying  conflict  between  land  and  sea. 
The  thick  forest  vegetation  disappears,  giving  place  to  isolated  and 
stunted  trees ;  the  river-banks  grow  less  and  less  defined,  and  finally 
lose  themselves  in  what  appears  to  be  an  interminable  marsh ;  and 
through  this  marsh  the  "  passes  "  furnish  channels  to  the  Gulf,  which 
are  discernible  only  by  the  practiced  eyes  of  the  pilots.  It  is  impossible, 
however,  for  the  inexperienced  traveler  to  say  where  land  ends  and  sea 
begins ;  and  before  he  is  aware  of  having  reached  the  "  mouth  "  of  the 
river,  he  is  far  out  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  where  a  muddy  surface-current 
ia  the  only  relic  of  the  mighty  "Father  of  Waters." 


APPENDIX 


THE  WORLD'S   COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION  IN  CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS. 

Location. — The  Exposition  is  held  chiefly  in  Jacl-ison  Park,  a  tract  of  land 
embracing  580  acres,  with  a  frontage  of  nearly  2  miles  on  Lake  Michigan,  and 
in  Washington  Parli,  embracing  371  acres;  while  between  the  two  is  a  tract  of 
80  acres  called  the  Midway  Plaisance.    The  entire  site  covers  1,03?  acres. 

Admission  Fee,— During  the  Exposition,  from  May  1st  to  October  30th, 
the  fee  for  each  admission  is  50c. 

Administration.— For  a  complete  list  of  the  officers  and  details  of  the  ad- 
ministration, see  the  list  given  on  page  325. 

Access  to  the  Exposition.— The  grounds  of  the  Exposition  extend  from 
56th  St.  to  67th  St..  and  there  are  entrance  gates  along  the  line  of  Stony  Island 
Ave.,  at  57th  St.,  59th  St.,  60th  St.,  62d  St.,  63d  St.,  and  67th  St.  Visitors  from 
Chicaso.  about  7  miles  distant,  approach  the  grounds  by  the  Illinois  Central 
R.  R.,Vith  its  South  Park  Station  at  57th  St.,  or  its  Woodland  Park  Station  at 
63d  St.  (fare,  25c.,  round-trip  ticket ;  time,  30  minutes).  The  Cottage  Grove  Ave. 
lake  cars  run  to  the  South  Park  entrance  at  57th  St  (fare,  5c.  each  way  ;  time, 
45  minutes).  The  boats  of  the  World's  Fair  Transportation  Co.  will  leave  the 
docks  on  the  lake  front  between  Monroe  and  Van  Buren  Sts.,  landing  at  the 
Exposition  pier,  opposite  the  foot  of  58th  St.  (fare,  25c.,  round  trip  ticket ;  time, 
45  minutes).    Also  by  the  elevated  railway  (fare,  5c.). 

Hotels.— It  will  be  desirable  for  all  persons  who  visit  the  fair  to  arrange 
beforehand  for  their  accommodatiors.  On  p.  316  will  be  found  a  full  list  of  the 
hotels  in  Chicago,  in  addition  to  which  the  following  houses  have  been  erected 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  fair  grounds  :  Cmmell  Avenue  Hotels  on  Cornell 
Ave.,  between  51st  and  52d  Sts.  ;  Park  Gate  Hotel,  cor.  63d  St.  and  Stony 
Island  Ave.,  at  the  terminus  of  the  elevated  railroad,  lake  car  lines,  and  electric 
car  line;  South  Shore  Hotel,  cor.  Bond  and  73d  Sts.,  and  the  Strickland  Hotel. 
on  Lake  Ave.,  between  38th  and  39th  Sts. 

The  World's  Fair. 

Introduction. — By  Act  of  Congress  approved  by  President  Har- 
rison on  April  25,  1890,  the  International  Exhibition  of  Arts,  Indus- 
tries, Manufactures,  and  the  Products  of  the  Soil,  Mine,  and  Sea,  to 
celebrate  the  400th  anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  America  by  Chris- 
topher Columbus,  was  created.  Very  promptly  and  with  characteristic 
energy  the  proper  officials  effected  an  organization,  and  the  buildings 
grew  into  existence.  On  page  325  there  has  already  been  given  a  brief 
account  of  the  development  and  preliminary  events  culminating  with 
the  opening  of  the  fair  by  President  Cleveland  on  May  1st.  There  also 
may  be  found  a  list  of  the  departments  under  which  the  exhibits  are 
classified,  together  with  the  names  of  the  leading  officers  of  the  man- 
agement. In  this  Appendix  a  short  description  of  the  more  impor- 
tant buildings  and  other  features  of  the  Great  Chicago  Exposition  is 
given. 

Buildings. 

In  the  space  at  our  command  there  is  scarce  opportunity  to  do  ade- 
quate justice  to  the  magnificent  buildings  whicli  form  so  important  a 


586  APPENDIX. 

feature  of  the  great  Columbian  World's  Fair,  but  a  brief  description  of 
each,  carefully  compiled  from  official  sources,  is  herewith  given  in  con- 
cise language. 

Administration  Building  (architect,  Richard  M.Hunt;  cost,  $550,- 
000). — It  is  located  at  the  west  end  of  the  great  court  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  site,  looking  eastward,  and  at  its  rear  are  the  transportation 
facilities  and  depots.  The  most  conspicuous  object  which  will  attract 
the  gaze  of  visitors  on  reaching  the  grounds  is  the  gilded  dome  of  this 
lofty  building.  It  covers  an  area  of  260  ft.  square,  and  consists  of  four 
pavilions  84  ft.  square,  one  at  each  of  the  four  angles  of  the  square, 
and  connected  by  a  great  central  dome  120  ft.  in  diameter  and  220  ft. 
in  height,  leaving  at  the  center  of  each  fa9ade  a  recess  82  ft.  wide, 
within  which  are  the  grand  entrances  to  the  building.  The  general 
design  is  in  the  stvle  of  the  French  renaissance.  The  first  great  story 
is  in  the  Doric  order,  of  heroic  proportions,  surrounded  by  a  lofty  balus- 
trade, and  having  the  great  tiers  of  the  angle  of  each  pavilion  crowned 
with  sculpture.  The  second  story,  with  its  lofty  and  spacious  colon- 
nade, is  of  the  Ionic  order.  The  four  great  entrances,  one  on  each  side 
of  the  building,  are  50  ft.  Avide  and  50  ft.  high,  deeply  recessed,  and 
covered  by  semicircular  arched  vaults,  richly  coffered.  In  the  rear  of 
these  arches  are  the  entrance  doors,  and  above  them  great  screens  of 
glass,  giving  light  to  the  central  rotunda.  Across  the  face  of  these 
screens,  at  the  level  of  the  office  floor,  are  galleries  of  communication 
between  the  different  pavilions.  The  interior  features  of  this  building 
exceed  in  beauty  and  splendor  those  of  the  exterior.  Between  every 
two  of  the  grand  entrances,  and  connecting  the  intervening  pavilion 
with  the  great  rotunda,  is  a  hall  or  loggia  30  ft.  square,  giving  access 
to  the  offices,  and  provided  with  broad,  circular  stairways  and  swift-run- 
ning elevators.  Above  the  balcony  is  the  second  story,  50  ft.  in  height. 
From  the  top  of  the  cornice  of  this  story  rises  the  interior  dome,  200 
ft.  from  the  floor,  and  in  the  center  is  an  opening  50  ft.  in  diameter, 
transmitting  a  flow  of  light  from  the  exterior  dome  overhead.  The 
under  side  of  the  dome  is  enriched  with  deep  panelings,  richly  mold- 
ed, and  the  panels  are  filled  with  sculpture  in  low  relief,  and  immense 
paintings  representing  the  arts  and  sciences. 

Agricidtural  Building  (architects,  McKim,  Mead  &  White ;  cost, 
$100,000). — The  style  of  architecture  of  this  structure  is  classic  renais- 
sance. It  is  very  near  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  is  almost  sur- 
rounded by  the  lagoons  that  lead  into  the  Park  from  the  lake.  The 
building  is  500  by  800  ft.,  its  longest  dimensions  being  east  and  west. 
For  a  single-story  building  the  design  is  bold  and  heroic.  The  general 
cornice-line  is  65  ft.  above  grade.  On  either  side  of  the  main  entrance 
are  mammoth  Corinthian  pillars,  50  ft.  high  and  5  ft.  in  diameter.  On 
each  corner  and  from  the  center  of  the  building  pavilions  are  reared, 
the  center  one  being  144  ft.  square.  The  corner  pavilions  are  con- 
nected by  curtains,  forming  a  continuous  arcade  around  the  top  of  the 
building.  The  main  entrance  leads  through  an  opening  64  ft.  wide  into 
a  vestibule,  from  which  passage  is  had  to  the  rotunda,  100  ft.  in  di- 
ameter.    This  is  surmounted  by  a  mammoth  glass   dome   130  ft.  high. 


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APPENDIX.  587 

All  through  the  luain  vestibule  statuary  has  been  designed  illustrative 
of  the  agricultural  industry.  Similar  designs  are  grouped  about  all 
the  grand  entrances  in  the  most  elaborate  manner.  The  corner  pavil- 
ions are  surmounted  by  domes  96  ft.  high,  and  above  these  tower 
groups  of  statuary.  The  design  for  these  domes  is  that  of  three  female 
figures,  of  herculean  proportions,  supporting  a  mammoth  globe.  To 
the  southward  of  the  Agricultural  building  is  an  annex,  devoted  chiefly 
to  a  live-stock  and  agricultural  assembly  hall.  This  building  is  con- 
veniently near  one  of  the  stations  of  the  elevated  railway.  On  the  first 
floor,  near  the  main  entrance  of  the  building,  is  located  a  bureau  of  in- 
formation. This  floor  also  contains  suitable  committee  and  other  rooms 
for  the  different  live-stock  associations.  On  this  floor  there  are  also 
large  and  handsomely  equipped  waiting-rooms.  Broad  stairways  lead 
from  the  first  floor  into  the  assembly-room. 

Dairy  Building  (cost,  $30,000). — The  dairy  building  was  specially 
designed  to  contain  a  complete  exhibit  of  dairy  products  and  also  a 
dairy  school,  in  connection  with  which  will  be  conducted  a  series  of 
tests  for  determining  the  relative  merits  of  different  breeds  of  dairy 
cattle  as  milk  and  butter  producers.  The  building  stands  near  the 
lake-shore,  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the  park  and  close  by  the  general 
live-stock  exhibit.  It  covers  nearly  half  an  acre,  measuring  95  by  200 
ft.,  and  is  two  stories  high.  In  design  it  is  of  quiet  exterior.  On  the 
first  floor,  besides  the  necessary  office  headquarters,  there  is  in  front 
a  large  open  space  devoted  to  exhibits  of  butter,  and  farther  back  an 
operating-room  25  by  100  ft.,  in  which  the  model  dairy  will  be  con- 
ducted. On  two  sides  of  this  room  are  amphitheatre  seats  capable  of 
accommodating  400  spectators.  Under  these  seats  are  refrigerators 
and  cold-storage  rooms  for  the  care  of  the  dairy  products.  The  operat- 
ing-room, which  extends  to  the  roof,  has  on  three  sides  a  gallery  where 
the  cheese  exhibits  wall  be  placed.  The  rest  of  the  second  story  is  de- 
voted to  a  cafe^  which  opens  on  a  balcony  overlooking  the  lake.  The 
dairy  school  will  be  most  instructive  and  valuable  to  agriculturists. 

Electrical  Building  (architects.  Van  Brunt  &  Howe  ;  cost,  $410,000). 
— The  Electrical  building  is  345  ft.  wide  and  YOO  ft.  long,  the  major 
axis  running  X.  and  S.  The  S.  front  is  on  the  great  quadrangle  or  court ; 
the  N.  front  faces  the  lagoon ;  the  E.  front  is  opposite  the  manufac- 
turers' building;  and  the  W.  faces  the  Mines  building.  The  general 
scheme  of  the  plan  is  based  upon  a  longitudinal  nave  115  ft.  wide  and 
114  ft.  high,  crossed  in  the  middle  by  a  transept  of  the  same  wudth 
and  height.  The  nave  and  the  transept  have  a  pitched  roof,  with  a 
range  of  sky-Ughts  at  the  bottom  of  the  pitch,  and  clear-story  windows. 
The  rest  of  the  building  is  covered  with  a  flat  roof,  averaging  62  ft.  in 
height,  and  provided  with  sky-lights.  The  second  story  is  composed  of 
a  series  of  galleries  connected  across  the  nave  by  two  bridges,  with 
access  by  four  grand  staircases.  The  area  of  the  galleries  in  the  second 
story  is  118,546  sq.  ft.,  or  2-7  acres.  The  exterior  walls  of  this  build- 
ing are  composed  of  a  continuous  Corinthian  order  of  pilasters,  3  ft.  6 
in.  wide  and  42  ft.  high,  supporting  a  full  entablature,  and  resting  upon 
a  stylobate  8  ft.  6  in.     The  total  height  of  the  walls  from  the  grade 


588  APPENDIX. 

outside  is  68  ft.  6  in.  At  each  of  the  four  corners  of  the  building  there 
is  a  pavilion,  above  which  rises  a  light  open  spire  or  tower  169  ft.  high. 
Intermediate  between  these  corner  pavilions  and  the  central  pavilions 
on  the  E.  and  W.  sides  there  is  a  subordinate  pavilion  bearing  a  low 
square  dome  upon  an  open  lantern.  The  electricity  building  has  an 
open  portico  extending  along  the  whole  of  the  S.  fa9ade,  the  lower  or 
Ionic  order  forming  an  open  screen  in  front  of  it.  The  various  subor- 
dinate pavilions  are  treated  with  windows  and  balconies.  The  details 
of  the  exterior  orders  are  richly  decorated,  and  the  pediments,  friezes, 
panels,  and  spandrils  have  received  a  decoration  of  figures  in  relief, 
with  architectural  motifs^  the  general  tendency  of  which  is  to  illustrate 
the  purposes  of  the  building.  The  appearance  of  the  exterior  is  that 
of  marble,  but  the  walls  of  the  hemicycle  and  of  the  various  porticoes 
and  loggia  are  highly  enriched  with  color,  the  pilasters  in  these  places 
being  decorated  with  scagliola  and  the  capitals  with  metallic  effects  in 
bronze. 

Fine  Arts  Building  (architect,  C.  B.  Atwood;  cost,  $670,000).— This 
structure  is  of  Grecian-Ionic  order  and  is  a  pure  type  of  the  most 
refined  classic  architecture.  The  building  is  oblong,  and  is  500  by  320 
ft.,  intersected  north,  east,  south,  and  west  by  a  great  nave  and  transept 
100  ft.  wide  and  70  ft.  high,  at  the  mtersection  of  which  is  a  dome  60 
ft.  in  diameter.  The  building  is  125  ft.  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  which 
is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  statue  of  the  type  of  the  famous  figure  of 
Winged  Victory.  The  transept  has  a  clear  space  through  the  center  of 
60  ft.,  being  lighted  entirely  from  above.  On  either  side  are  galleries 
20  ft.  wide  and  24  ft.  above  the  floor.  The  collections  of  the  sculpture 
are  displayed  on  the  main  floor  of  the  nave  and  transept,  and  on  the 
walls  both  of  the  ground  floor  and  of  the  galleries  are  ample  areas  for 
displaying  the  paintings  and  sculptured  panels  in  relief.  The  corners 
made  by  the  crossing  of  the  nave  and  transept  are  filled  with  small 
picture  galleries.  Around  the  entire  building  are  galleries  40  ft.  wide, 
forming  a  continuous  promenade  around  the  classic  structure.  Between 
the  promenade  and  the  naves  are  the  smaller  rooms  devoted  to  private 
collections  of  paintings  and  the  collections  of  the  various  art  schools. 
On  either  side  of  the  main  building,  and  connected  with  it  by  handsome 
, corridors,  are  very  large  annexes,  which  are  also  utilized  by  various 
art  exhibits.  The  main  building  is  entered  by  four  great  portals,  richly 
ornamented  with  architectural  sculpture,  and  approached  by  broad 
flights  of  steps.  The  walls  of  the  l(5ggia  of  the  colonnades  are  highly 
decorated  with  mural  pamtings  illustrating  the  history  and  progress  of 
the  arts.  The  frieze  of  the  exterior  walls  and  the  pediments  of  the 
principal  entrances  are  ornamented  with  sculptures  and  poi-traits  in 
bas-relief  of  the  masters  of  ancient  art.  The  construction,  although  of 
a  temporally  character,  is  necessarily  fire-proof.  The  main  walls  are  of 
solid  brick,  covered  with  "  staff,"  architecturally  ornamented,  while  the 
roof,  floors,  and  galleries  are  of  iron.  The  building  is  located  beauti- 
fully in  the  northern  portion  of  the  park,  with  the  south  front  facing 
the  lagoon.  It  is  separated  from  the  lagoon  by  beautiful  terraces, 
ornamented  with  balustrades,  with  an  immense  flight  of  steps  leading 


F^r^ 


SI 

r 
r 

11 

APPENDIX.  589 

down  from  the  main  portal  to  the  lagoon,  where  there  is  a  lauding  for 
boats.  The  north  front  faces  the  wide  lawn  and  the  group  of  State 
buildings.  The  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  building  is  ornamented 
with  groups  of  statues,  replica  ornaments  of  classic  art,  such  as  the 
Choragic  monument,  the  "  Cave  of  the  Winds,"  and  other  beautiful  ex- 
amples of  Grecian  art. 

Foref^try  BxUding  (cost,  $100,000). — The  Forestry  building  is  in  ap- 
pearance the  most  unique  of  all  the  Exposition  structures.  Its  dimen- 
sions are  200  by  500  ft.  To  a  remarkable  degree  its  architecture  is  of 
the  rustic  order.  On  all  four  sides  of  the  building  is  a  veranda,  sup- 
porting the  roof  of  which  is  a  colonnade  consisting  of  a  series  of  col- 
umns composed  of  three  tree-trunks  each  25  ft.  in  length,  one  of  them 
from  16  to  20  inches  in  diameter  and  the  others  smaller.  All  these 
trunks  are  left  in  their  natural  state,  with  bark  undisturbed.  They  are 
contributed  by  the  different  States  and  Territories  of  the  Union  and  by 
foreign  countries,  each  furnishing  specimens  of  its  most  characteristic 
trees.  The  sides  of  the  buildmg  are  coUvStructed  of  slabs  with  the  bark 
removed.  The  window- frames  are  treated  in  the  same  rustic  manner 
as  is  the  rest  of  the  building.  The  main  entrances  are  elaborately 
finished  in  different  kinds  of  wood,  the  material  and  workmanship  be- 
ing contributed  by  several  prominent  lumber  associations.  The  roof  is 
thatched  with  tan  and  other  barks.  The  visitor  can  make  no  mistake 
as  to  the  kinds  of  tree-trunks  which  form  the  colonnade,  for  he  will  see 
upon  each  a  tablet  upon  which  is  inscribed  the  common  and  scientific 
name,  the  State  or  country  from  which  the  trunk  was  contributed,  and 
other  pertinent  information,  such  as  the  approximate  quantity  of  such 
timber  in  the  region  whence  it  came.  Surmounting  the  cornice  of  the 
veranda  and  extending  all  around  the  building  are  numerous  flagstaffs 
bearing  the  colors,  coats  of  arms,  etc.,  of  the  nations  and  States  repre- 
sented m  the  exhibits  inside. 

Fisheries  Building  (architect,  Henry  I.  Cobb  ;  cost,  $225,000).— The 
Fisheries  building  embraces  a  large  central  structure  with  two  smaller 
polygonal  buildings  connected  with  it  on  either  end  by  arcades.  The 
extreme  length  of  the  building  is  1,100  ft.  and  the  width  200  ft.  It  is 
located  to  the  northward  of  the  United  States  Government  buildmg. 
In  the  central  portion  is  the  general  fisheries  exhibit.  In  one  of  the 
polygonal  buildings  is  the  angling  exhibit,  and  in  the  other  the  aquaria. 
The  exterior  of  the  building  is  Spanish-Romanesque,  which  contrasts 
agreeably  in  appearance  with  that  of  the  other  buildings.  To  the  close 
observer  the  exterior  of  the  building  can  not  fail  to  be  exceedingly  in- 
teresting, for  the  architect  exerted  all  his  ingenuity  in  arranging  in- 
numerable forms  of  capitals,  modillions,  brackets,  cornices,  and  other 
ornamental  details,  using  only  fish  and  other  sea  forms  for  his  motif  of 
design.  The  roof  of  the  building  is  of  old  Spanish  tile,  and  the  side 
walls  of  pleasing  color.  In  the  center  of  the  polygonal  building  is  a 
rotunda  60  ft.  in  diameter,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  basin  or  pool  26 
ft.  wide,  from  which  rises  a  towering  mass  of  rocks  covered  with  moss 
and  lichens.  From  clefts  and  crevices  in  the  rocks  crystal  streams  of 
water  gush  and  drop  to  the  masses  of  reeds,  rushes,  and  ornamental 


590  APPENDIX. 

semi-aquatic  plants  in  the  basin  below.  In  this  pool  gorgeous  gold- 
fishes, golden  ides,  golden  tench,  and  other  fishes  disport.  From  the 
rotunda  one  side  of  the  larger  series  of  aquaria  may  be  viewed.  These 
are  ten  in  number,  and  have  a  capacity  of  7,000  to  2*7,000  gallons  of 
water  each.  Passing  out  of  the  rotunda,  a  great  corridor  or  arcade  is 
reached,  where  on  one  hand  can  be  viewed  the  opposite  side  of  the 
series  of  great  tanks,  and  on  the  other  a  line  of  tanks  somewhat  smaller, 
ranging  from  750  to  1,500  gallons  each  in  capacity.  The  corridor  or 
arcade  is  about  1 5  ft.  wide.  The  glass  fronts  of  the  aquaria  are  m 
length  about  575  ft.,  and  have  3,000  square  ft.  of  surface.  The  total 
water  capacity  of  the  aquaria,  exclusive  of  reservoirs,  is  18,725  cubic 
ft,  or  140,000  gallons.  This  weighs  1,192,425  pounds,  or  almost  600 
tons.  Of  this  amount  about  40,000  gallons  is  devoted  to  the  marine 
exhibit.  In  the  entire  salt-water  circulation,  including  reservoirs,  there 
are  about  80,000  gallons.  The  pumping  and  distributing  plant  for  the 
marine  aquaria  is  constructed  of  vulcanite.  The  pumps  are  in  dupli- 
cate, and  each  has  a  capacity  of  3,000  gallons  per  hour.  The  supply 
of  sea-water  was  secured  by  evaporating  the  necessary  quantity  at  the 
Wood's  Holl  station  of  the  United  States  Fish  Commission  to  about  one 
fifth  its  bulk,  thus  reducing  both  quantity  and  weight  for  transporta- 
tion about  80  per  cent.  The  fresh  water  required  to  restore  it  to  its 
proper  density  is  supplied  from  Lake  Michigan. 

Government  Building  (architect,  W.  J.  Edbrooke  ;  cost,  $400,000). — 
This  is  near  the  lake-shore,  S.  of  the  main  lagoon  and  of  the  area  re- 
served for  the  foreign  nations  and  the  several  States,  and  E.  of  the 
Woman's  building  and  of  Midway  Plaisance.  The  buildings  of  England, 
Germany,  and  Mexico  are  to  the  northward.  It  is  classic  in  style,  and 
bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  U.  S.  National  Museum  and  other 
Government  buildings  at  Washington.  It  covers  an  area  of  350  by  420 
ft.,  and  is  constructed  of  iron  and  glass.  Its  leading  architectural  fea- 
ture is  an  imposing  central  dome  120  ft.  in  diameter  and  150  ft.  high, 
the  floor  of  which  will  be  kept  free  from  exhibits.  The  building  fronts 
to  the  W.,  and  connects  on  the  N.,  by  a  bridge  over  the  lagoon,  with  the 
building  of  the  fishing  exhibit.  The  S.  half  of  the  Government  building 
is  devoted  to  the  exhibits  of  the  Post-Ofiice  department.  Treasury  de- 
partment. War  department,  and  Department  of  Agriculture.  The  N.  half 
is  devoted  to  the  exhibits  of  the  Fisheries  Commission,  Smithsonian 
Institution,  and  Interior  department.  The  State  department  exhibit  ex- 
tends from  the  rotunda  to  the  E.  end,  and  that  of  the  Department  of 
Justice  from  the  rotunda  to  the  W.  end  of  the  building.  The  allot- 
ment of  space  for  the  several  department  exhibits  is  :  War  department, 
23,000  square  ft.;  Treasury,  10,500  square  ft.;  Agriculture,  23,250 
square  ft. ;  Interior,  24,000  square  ft.  ;  Post-Ofl&ce,  9,000  square  ft.  : 
Fishery,  20,000  square  ft.  ;    and  Smithsonian  Institution,  balance  of 


Horticultural  Building  (architect,  W.  L.  B.  Jenney ;  cost,  $300,- 
000). — This  building  is  immediately  south  of  the  entrance  to  Jackson 
Park  from  the  Midway  Plaisance,  and  facing  east  on  the  lagoon.  In 
front  of  it  is  a  flower  terrace  for  outside  exhibits,  including  tanks  for 


APPENDIX.  591 

nympluea  and  the  Victoria  Regia.  The  front  of  the  terrace,  with  its 
low  parapet  between  large  vases,  borders  the  water,  and  at  its  center 
forms  a  boat-landing.  The  building  is  1,000  ft.  long,  with  an  extreme 
width  of  250  ft.  The  plan  is  a  central  pavilion  with  two  end  pavilions, 
each  connected  with  the  central  one  by  front  and  rear  cm^tains,  forming 
two  interior  courts,  each  88  by  270  ft.  These  courts  are  beautifully 
decorated  in  color,  and  planted  with  ornamental  shrubs  and  flowers. 
The  center  of  the  pavilion  is  roofed  by  a  crystal  dome  187  ft.  in  diame- 
ter and  113  ft.  high,  under  which  are  exhibited  the  tallest  palms,  bam- 
boos, and  tree-ferns  that  can  be  procured.  There  are  galleries  in  each 
of  the  pavilions.  The  galleries  of  the  end  pavilions  are  designed  for 
cafes^  the  situation  and  the  surroundings  being  particularly  adapted  to 
recreation  and  refreshment.  These  cafes  are  surrounded  by  an  arcade 
on  three  sides,  from  which  charming  views  of  the  grounds  can  be  ob- 
tained. In  this  building  are  exhibited  all  the  varieties  of  flowers,  plants, 
vines,  seeds,  horticultural  implements,  etc.  Those  exhibits  requiring 
sunshine  and  light  are  shown  in  the  rear  curtains,  where  the  roof  is  en- 
tirely of  glass  and  not  too  far  removed  from  the  plants.  The  front 
curtains  and  space  under  the  galleries  are  designed  for  exhibits  that  re- 
quire only  the  ordinary  amount  of  light.  Provision  is  made  to  heat 
such  parts  as  require  it.  The  exterior  of  the  building  is  in  "  staff," 
tinted  in  a  soft  warm  birff,  color  being  reserved  for  the  interior  and  the 
courts. 

Macliinery  Hall  (architects,  Peabody  and  Stearns ;  cost,  $1,200,- 
000). — This  building  measures  850  by  500  ft.,  and  includes  the  machin- 
ery annex  and  power-house.  It  is  located  at  the  extreme  south  end  of 
the  park,  midway  between  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  and  the  west 
line  of  the  park.  It  is  just  south  of  the  Administration  building,  and 
west  and  across  a  lagoon  from  the  Agricultural  building.  The  building 
is  spanned  by  three-arched  trusses,  and  the  interior  presents  the  ap- 
pearance of  three  railroad  train-houses  side  by  side,  surrounded  on  all 
the  four  sides  by  a  gallei'y  50  ft.  wide.  The  trusses  are  built  separately, 
so  that  they  can  be  taken  down  and  sold  for  use  as  railroad  train- 
houses.  In  each  of  the  long  naves  there  is  an  elevated  traveling  crane 
running  from  end  to  end  of  the  building  for  the  purpose  of  moving  ma- 
chinery. These  platforms  are  built  so  that  visitors  may  view  from  them 
the  exhibits  beneath.  The  power  for  this  building  is  supplied  from  a 
power-house  adjoining  the  south  side  of  the  building. 

Manufactures  and  Liberal  Arts  Building  (architect,  George  B.  Post ; 
cost,  $1,700,000). — This  is  the  mammoth  structure  of  the  Exposition.  It 
measures  1,687  by  787  ft.  and  covers  nearly  31  acres,  and  is  the  largest 
Exposition  building  ever  constructed.  Within  the  building  a  gallery  50 
ft.  wide  extends  around  the  four  sides,  and  projecting  from  this  are  86 
smaller  galleries  12  ft.  wide,  from  which  the  array  of  exhibits  and  the 
scene  below  may  be  viewed.  The  galleries  are  approached  upon  the 
main  floor  by  30  staircases,  the  flights  of  which  are  12  ft.  wide  each. 
"  Columbia  Avenue,"  50  ft.  wide,  extends  through  the  mammoth  build- 
ing longitudinally,  and  an  avenue  of  like  width  crosses  it  at  right  angles 
at  the  center.     The  main  roof  is  of  iron  and  glass,  and  arches  an  area 


592  APPENDIX. 

385  by  1,400  ft.,  and  has  its  ridge  150  ft.  from  the  ground.  The  build- 
ing, including  its  extensive  galleries,  has  about  40  acres  of  floor-space. 
The  architecture  is  in  the  Corinthian  style,  and  in  point  of  being 
severely  classic  excels  nearly  all  the  other  edifices.  The  long  array  of 
columns  and  arches,  which  its  f a9ades  present,  is  relieved  from  monoto- 
ny by  very  elaborate  ornamentation,  in  which  female  figures,  symbolical 
of  the  various  arts  and  sciences,  play  a  conspicuous  and  very  attractive 
part.  The  exterior  of  the  building  is  covered  with  "  staff,"  treated  to 
represent  marble.  The  huge  fluted  columns  and  the  immense  arches 
are  apparently  of  this  beautiful  material.  There  are  four  great  en- 
trances, one  in  the  center  of  each  fa9ade.  These  are  designed  in  the 
manner  of  triumphal  arches,  the  central  archway  of  each  being  40  ft. 
wide  and  80  ft.  high.  Surmounting  these  portals  is  the  attic  story  or- 
namented with  sculptured  eagles  18  ft.  high,  and  on  each  side  above 
the  side  arches  are  great  panels  with  inscriptions,  and  the  spandrels  are 
filled  with  sculptured  figures  in  bas-relief.  At  each  corner  of  the  main 
building  are  pavilions  forming  arched  entrances,  which  are  designed 
in  harmony  with  the  great  portals. 

Mines  and  Mining  Building  (architect,  S.  S.  Beman  ;  cost,  $265,- 
000). — Located  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  western  lagoon  or  lake, 
and  between  the  Electricity  and  Transportation  buildings,  is  the  Mines 
and  Mining  building.  It  is  700  ft.  long  by  350  ft.  wide.  Its  architecture 
has  its  inspiration  in  early  Italian  renaissance,  with  which  sufficient  lib- 
erty is  taken  to  invest  the  building  with  the  animation  that  should 
characterize  a  great  general  Exposition.  There  is  a  decided  French 
spirit  pervading  the  exterior  design,  but  it  is  kept  well  subordinated. 
In  plan  it  is  simple  and  straightforward,  embracing  on  the  ground  floor 
spacious  vestibules,  restaurants,  etc.  On  each  of  the  four  sides  of  the 
building  are  placed  the  entrances,  those  of  the  north  and  south  fronts 
being  the  most  spacious  and  prominent.  To  the  right  and  left  of  each 
entrance,  inside,  start  broad  flights  of  easy  stairs  leading  to  the  gal- 
leries. The  galleries  are  60  ft.  wide  and  25  ft.  high  from  the  ground- 
floor,  and  are  lighted  on  the  sides  by  large  windows,  and  from  above  by 
a  high  clear-story  extending  around  the  building.  The  main  fronts  look 
southward  on  the  great  central  court,  and  northward  on  the  western 
and  middle  lakes  and  an  island  gorgeous  with  flowers.  These  prin- 
cipal fronts  display  enormous  arched  entrances,  richly  embellished  with 
sculptural  decorations  emblematic  of  mining  and  its  allied  industries. 
At  each  end  of  these  fronts  are  large  square  pavilions,  surmounted  by 
low  domes,  which  mark  the  four  corners  of  the  building,  and  are  light- 
ed by  large  ai'ched  windows  extending  through  the  galleries.  Between 
the  main  entrance  and  the  pavilions  are  richly  decorated  arcades,  form- 
ing an  open  loggia  on  the  ground  floor,  and  a  deeply  recessed  prome- 
nade on  the  gallery  floor  level,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  lakes 
and  islands  to  the  northward  and  the  great  central  court  on  the  south. 
These  covered  promenades  are  each  25  ft.  wide  and  230  ft.  long,  and 
from  them  is  had  access  to  the  building  at  numerous  points.  These 
loggias  on  the  first  floor  are  faced  with  marbles  of  different  kinds  and 
hues,  which  will  be  considered  part  of  the  raining  exhibit,  and  so  util- 


WORLD'S    COLUMBIAN     EXPOSITION,    CHICAGO.       BIRD'S-EYE    VIEW,    LOOKING    EAST. 


Illinois. 


Woman's. 


Fisheries.  U.  S.  Government 

Horticulture. 


Naval. 

Manufactures  and  Liberal  Arts. 
Electricity. 
Transportation.  Mining.  Administration. 

R.  R.  Approaches. 


Casino  and  Pier. 

Agriculture.  Forestry.  Dairy. 


Machinery. 


Live-stock. 


APPENDIX.  593 

ized  as  to  have  marketable  value  at  the  close  of  the  Exposition.  The 
loggia  ceilings  will  be  heavily  coffered,  and  richly  decorated  in  plaster 
and  color.  The  ornamentation  is  massed  at  the  prominent  points  of 
the  facade.  The  exterior  presents  a  massive  though  graceful  appear- 
ance. 

Xaval  Exhibit  (designer,  Frank  W.  Grogan;  cost,  $100,000). — 
This  imitation  battle-ship  of  1893  is  erected  on  piling  on  the  lake  front 
in  the  northeast  portion  of  Jackson  Park.  It  is  surrounded  by  water, 
and  has  the  appearance  of  being  moored  to  a  wharf.  The  structure  has 
all  the  fittings  that  belong  to  the  actual  ship,  such  as  guns,  turrets,  tor- 
pedo-tubes, torpedo-nets  and  booms,  with  boats,  anchors,  chain- cables, 
davits,  awnings,  deck  fittings,  etc.,  together  with  all  appliances  for 
woi'king  the  same.  Officers,  seamen,  mechanics,  and  marines  are  de- 
tailed by  the  Xavy  Department  during  the  Exposition,  and  the  disci- 
pline and  mode  of  life  on  our  naval  vessels  are  completely  shown.  The 
detail  of  men  is  not,  however,  as  great  as  the  complement  of  the  actual 
ship.  The  crew  gives  certain  drills,  especially  boat,  torpedo,  and  gun 
drills,  as  in  a  vessel  of  war.  The  dimensions  of  the  structure  are  those 
of  the  actual  battle-ship,  to  wit :  Length,  348  ft. ;  width  amidships,  69 
ft.  3  in.  ;  and  from  the  water-line  to  the  top  of  the  main  deck,  12  ft. 
Centrally  placed  on  this  deck  is  a  superstructure  8  ft.  high  with  a  ham- 
mock berthing  on  the  same  7  ft.  high,  and  above  these  are  the  bridge, 
chart-house,  and  the  boats.  At  the  forward  end  of  the  superstructure 
there  is  a  cone-shaped  tower,  called  the  "  military  mast,"  near  the  top 
of  which  are  placed  two  circular  "  tops ''  as  receptacles  for  sharpshoot- 
ers. Kapid-firing  gims  are  mounted  in  each  of  these  tops.  The  height 
from  the  water-line  to  the  summit  of  this  military  mast  is  76  ft.,  and 
above  is  placed  a  flagstaff  for  signaling.  The  battery  mounted  com- 
prises four  13-in.  breech-loading  rifle  cannon;  eight  8-in.  breech-load- 
ing rifle  cannon ;  four  6-in.  breech-loading  rifle  cannon ;  twenty  6- 
pounder  rapid  firing  guns ;  six  1-pound  rapid-firing  guns ;  2  Gatling 
guns,  and  6  torpedo-tubes  or  torpedo-guns.  All  these  are  placed  and 
mounted  respectively  as  in  the  genuine  battle-ship:  On  the  starboard 
side  of  the  ship  is  shown  the  torpedo-protection  net,  stretching  the  en- 
tire length  of  the  vessel.  Steam  launches  and  cutters  ride  at  the 
booms,  and  all  the  outward  appearance  of  a  real  ship  of  war  is  imi- 
tated. 

Trmisportation  Building  (architects,  Adler  and  Sullivan ;  cost, 
$370,000). — The  Transportation  building  is  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
west  flank,  and  lies  between  the  Horticultural  and  the  Mines  buildings. 
Facing  eastward,  it  commands  a  view  of  the  floral  island  and  an  extensive 
branch  of  the  lagoon.  It  is  exquisitely  refined  and  simple  in  architec- 
tural treatment,  although  very  rich  and  elaborate  in  detail.  In  style  it 
savors  much  of  the  Romanesque,  although  to  the  initiated  the  manner 
in  which  it  is  designed  on  axial  lines,  and  the  solicitude  shown  for  fine 
proportions,  and  subtle  relation  of  parts  to  each  other,  will  at  once  sug- 
gest the  methods  of  composition  followed  at  the  Ecole  des  Beaux  Arts. 
The  main  entrance  to  the  Transportation  building  consists  of  an  im- 
mense single  arch  enriched  to  an  extraordinary  degree  with  carvings, 


594  APPENDIX. 

bas-reliefs,  and  mural  paintings,  the  entire  feature  forming  a  rich  and 
beautiful  yet  quiet  color  climax,  for  it  is  ti'eated  in  leaf  and  is  called 
the  golden  door.  The  remainder  of  the  architectural  composition  falls 
into  a  just  relation  of  contrast  with  the  highly  wrought  entrance,  and  is 
duly  quiet  and  modest,  though  very  broad  in  treatment.  It  consists  of 
a  continuous  arcade  with  subordinated  colonnade  and  entablature.  Nu- 
merous minor  entrances  are  from  time  to  time  pierced  in  the  walls,  and 
with  them  are  grouped  terraces,  seats,  drinking-fountains,  and  statues. 
The  interior  of  the  building  is  treated  much  after  the  manner  of  a 
Roman  basilica,  with  broad  nave  and  aisles.  The  roof  is  therefore  in 
three  divisions.  The  middle  one  rises  much  higher  than  the  others, 
and  its  walls  are  pierced  to  form  a  beautiful  arcaded  clear-story.  The 
cupola,  placed  exactly  in  the  center  of  the  building  and  rising  165  ft. 
above  the  ground,  is  reached  by  8  elevators.  These  elevators  of  them- 
selves naturally  form  a  part  of  the  transportation  exhibit,  and  as  they 
also  carry  passengers  to  galleries  at  various  stages  of  height,  a  fine 
view  of  the  interior  of  the  building  may  easily  be  obtained.  The  main 
galleries  of  this  building,  because  of  the  abundant  elevator  facilities, 
prove  quite  accessible  to  visitors.  The  main  building  of  the  transpor- 
tation exhibit  measures  960  ft.  front  by  250  ft.  deep.  From  this  ex- 
tends westward  to  Stony  Island  Avenue  an  enormous  annex  covering 
about  9  acres.  This  is  one  story  only  in  height.  In  it  may  be  seen  the 
more  bulky  exhibits.  Along  the  central  avenue  or  nave  the  visitor  may 
see  facing  each  other  scores  of  locomotive-engines,  highly  polished,  and 
rendering  the  perspective  effect  of  the  nave  both  exceedingly  novel  and 
striking.  Add  to  the  effect  of  the  exhibits  the  architectural  impression 
given  by  a  long  vista  of  richly  ornamented  colonnade,  and  it  may  easily 
be  seen  that  the  interior  of  Transportation  building  is  one  of  the  most 
impressive  of  the  World's  Fair.  The  transportation  exhibits  naturally 
include  everything,  of  whatsoever  name  or  sort,  devoted  to  the  purpose 
of  transportation,  and  range  from  a  baby-carriage  to  a  giant  engine, 
from  a  cash  conveyor  to  a  balloon  or  carrier  pigeon. 

Woman's  Building  (architect.  Miss  Sophia  B.  Hayden;  cost, 
$138,000). — This  structure  is  designed  on  the  Italian  renaissance.  Di- 
rectly in  front  of  the  building  the  lagoon  takes  the  form  of  a  bay 
about  400  ft.  in  width.  From  the  center  of  this  bay  a  grand  landing 
and  staircase  leads  to  a  terrace  6  ft.  above  the  water.  Crossiag  this 
terrace  other  staircases  give  access  to  the  ground  4  ft.  above,  on  which, 
about  100  ft.  back,  the  building  is  situated.  The  first  terrace  is  de- 
signed in  artistic  flower-beds  and  low  shrubs.  The  principal  fa9ade  has 
an  extreme  length  of  400  ft.,  the  depth  of  the  building  being  half  this 
distance.  The  first  story  is  raised  about  10  ft.  from  the  ground  line, 
and  a  wide  staircase  leads  to  the  center  pavilion.  This  pavilion,  form- 
ing the  main  triple-arched  entrance,  with  an  open  colonnade  in  the  sec- 
ond story,  is  finished  with  a  low  pediment  enriched  with  a  highly  elabo- 
rate bas-relief.  The  corner  pavilions  have  each  an  open  colonnade 
added  above  the  main  cornice.  Here  are  located  the  hanging  gardens, 
A  lobby  40  ft.  wide  leads  into  the  open  rotunda,  70  by  65  ft.,  reaching 
through  the  height  of  the  building,  and  protected  by  a  richly  oma- 


^^^%?^.. 


\\\ 


\\      ^       1^ 


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APPENDIX.  595 

mented  sky-light.  This  rotunda  is  surrounded  by  a  two-story  open  arcade, 
as  delicate  and  chaste  in  design  as  the  exterior,  the  whole  having  a 
thoroughly  Italian  court-yard  effect,  admitting  abundance  of  light  to  all 
rooms  facing  this  interior  space.  On  the  first  floor  are  located,  on  the 
left  hand,  a  model  hospital ;  on  the  right,  a  model  kindergarten ;  each 
occupying  80  by  60  ft.  The  whole  floor  of  the  south  pavilion  is  devoted 
to  the  retrospective  exhibit ;  the  one  on  the  north  to  reform  work  and 
charity  organization.  Each  of  these  floors  is  80  by  200  ft.  The  cur- 
tain opposite  the  main  front  contains  the  library,  bureau  of  information, 
records,  etc.  In  the  second  story  are  located  ladies'  parlors,  committee- 
rooms,  and  dressing-rooms,  all  leading  to  the  open  balcony  in  front. 
The  whole  second  floor  of  the  north  pavilion  incloses  the  great  assem- 
bly-room and  club-room.  The  first  of  these  is  provided  with  an  ele- 
vated stage  for  the  accommodation  of  speakers.  The  south  pavilion 
contains  the  model  kitchen,  refreshment-rooms,  reception-rooms,  etc. 
The  building  is  incased  with  "  staff,"  the  same  material  used  on  the 
rest  of  the  buildings,  and  as  it  stands  with  its  mellow,  decorated  walls 
bathed  in  the  bright  sunshine,  the  women  of  the  country  are  justly 
proud  of  the  result. 

State  and  Territorial  Buildings. 

Suitable  sites  were  allotted  by  the  management  of  the  World's  Fair 
to  every  State  and  Territory  for  their  special  exhibits.  Many  of  them 
have  erected  characteristic  or  special  buildings.  In  several  instances, 
as  in  Florida,  Massachusetts,  and  Pennsylvania,  historical  structures 
have  been  reproduced.  A  brief  description  of  the  more  important  State 
buildings  is  herewith  given : 

California. — The  architecture  of  this  structure  is  in  the  style  of 
the  old  California  Missions.  P.  Brown,  of  San  Francisco,  was  the  archi- 
tect, and  the  cost  was  $75,000.     State  appropriation,  $300,000. 

Colorado. — The  style  of  architecture  chosen  was  that  of  the  Spanish 
renaissance.  The  architect  was  H.  T.  E.  Wendell,  of  Denver,  and  the 
cost  $35,000.     State  appropriation,  $100,000. 

Connecti(Mt. — This  State  building  is  a  type  of  a  Connecticut  colonial 
residence.  Warren  R.  Briggs,  of  Bridgeport,  was  the  architect,  and  the 
cost  $12,000. 

Florida. — For  this  State  there  has  been  reproduced  a  miniature  of 
old  Fort  Marion,  in  St.  Augustine.  The  architect  was  W.  Mead  Walter, 
of  Chicago,  and  the  cost  $20,000.     State  appropriation,  $50,000. 

Illinois. — The  style  of  architecture  is  an  adaptation  of  the  Italian 
renaissance.  The  architects  were  Boyington  k  Co.,  of  Chicago,  and  it 
cost  $250,000.     State  appropriation,  $800,000. 

Indiana. — This  building  is  in  the  French-Gothic  style  of  architec- 
ture, such  as  is  seen  in  the  chateaux  of  France.  The  architect  was 
Henry  I.  Cobb,  and  the  cost  $60,000.     State  appropriation,  $75,000. 

Iowa. — The  building  of  this  State  includes  the  "  Shelter "  and  a 
wooden  structure  combined,  after  the  style  of  a  French  chateau.  Archi- 
tects, the  Josselyn  &  Taylor  Co.,  of  Cedar  Rapids.  Cost,  $35,000. 
State  appropriation,  $130,000. 


596  APPENDIX. 

Maine. — The  building  of  this  State  is  octagon  in  form,  and  is  par- 
tially constructed  of  Maine  granite.  The  architect  is  Charles  S.  Frost, 
of  Chicago,  and  the  cost  was  $20,000      State  appropriation,  $40,000. 

Maryland. — This  building  is  a  reproduction  of  the  State-House  in 
Annapolis.     It  cost  $35,000.     State  appropriation,  $60,000. 

Massachusetts. — This  building  is  in  the  colonial  style,  and  is  largely 
a  reproduction  of  the  John  Hancock  House.  It  was  designed  by  Pea- 
body  &  Stearns,  of  Boston,  and  cost  $50,000.  State  appropriation, 
$150,000. 

Minnesota. — The  architecture  of  this  State's  building  is  in  the  Ital- 
ian rennaissance  style.  William  C.  Whitney  is  the  architect,  and  the 
cost  $30,000,     State  appropriation,  $50,000. 

Montana. — The  style  of  architecture  followed  in  this  building  is  the 
Romanesque.  The  architects  are  Galbraith  &  Fuller,  of  Livingston,  and 
cost  $16,000.     State  appropriation,  $50,000. 

Neio  York. — For  this  State,  McKim,  Mead  &  White  have  designed 
a  large  summer-house  resembling  an  Italian  villa.  Its  cost  was  $77,000. 
State  appropriation,  $300,000. 

Ohio. — The  building  from  this  State  is  colonial  in  style,  and  built 
largely  of  native  woods.  James  McLaughlm,  of  Cincinnati,  is  the 
architect,  and  the  cost  $30,000.     State  appropriation,  $125,000. 

Pejinsylvania. — From  this  State  we  have  an  exact  reproduction  of 
the  old  Independence  Hall,  of  Philadelphia.  The  architect  is  R.  Lons- 
dale, of  Philadelphia,  and  the  cost  $60,000.  State  appropriation, 
$300,000. 

South  Dakota. — This  State  has  erected  a  frame  structure,  the  exte- 
rior of  which  is  covered  with  Yankton  cement,  in  imitation  of  stone 
work.  The  architect  is  W.  L.  Dow,  of  Sioux  Falls,  and  the  cost 
$15,000.     State  appropriation,  $25,000. 

Texas. — The  building  of  this  State  is  a  good  example  of  the  Spanish 
renaissance  architecture,  resembling  one  of  the  old  Spanish  Missions. 

Washington. — A  building  entirely  of  wood  from  the  Puget  Sound 
region  has  been  erected  by  this  State.  Warren  P.  Skillings,  of  Seattle, 
is  the  architect,  and  the  cost  was  $100,000.  State  appropriation, 
$100,000. 

Wyoming. — The  building  of  this  State  is  in  the  French  chateau 
style.     It  cost  $20,000.     State  appropriation,  $30,000. 

Midway  Plaisance. 

This  is  a  strip  of  land  600  ft.  wide  and  seven  eighths  of  a  mile 
long,  between  59th  and  60th  Sts.,  containing  80  acres,  connecting  Jack- 
son and  Washington  Parks.  In  it  are  located  all  the  amusements  and 
other  attractions  of  the  Fair,  outside  the  main  Exhibition  buildings. 

The  following  entertainments  may  be  seen  in  the  Midway  Plais- 
ance. 

Austrian  Village. — A  representation  of  a  section  of  a  street  in  old 
Vienna,  called  "  Der  Graben."  The  character  of  this  concession  is 
similar  to  that  of  the  German  Village. 

Bohemian  Glass  Factory. — The  entire  process  of  making  the  cele- 


APPENDIX.  597 

brated  Bohemian  glassware  is  shown  bj  the  native  Bohemian  workmen. 
The  building  is  a  reproduction  of  the  native  factories. 

Captive  Balloon. — A  balloon  with  a  capacity  of  carrying  from  12  to 
20  people  to  a  height  of  1,500  ft.  The  latest  machinery  known  to 
aerial  navigation  is  introduced  in  connection  with  this  balloon,  and  it  is 
also  proposed  to  demonstrate  to  what  practical  uses  balloons  can  be 
put. 

Dahomey  Village. — This  consists  of  a  settlement  of  from  30  to  60 
natives,  of  both  sexes,  including  a  king  and  several  chiefs.  These  peo- 
ple will  execute  their  various  dances,  give  their  war-cries,  and  perform 
such  rites  and  ceremonies  as  are  peculiar  to  them.  They  have  the 
privilege  of  selling  such  native  merchandise  as  they  may  produce. 

Dutch  Settlement. — A  practical  demonstration  of  the  habits  and  cus- 
toms of  the  people  of  the  South  Sea  islands.  The  natives  will  sell 
their  manufactured  articles,  and  give  entertainments  peculiar  to  their 
race. 

East  India  Settlement. — This  is  similar  in  character  to  the  Dutch 
settlement.  Natives  show"  their  mode  of  living,  sell  their  wares,  and 
typical  jugglers  and  snake  charmers  will  perform. 

Ferris  Wheel. — This  attraction  is  a  wheel,  250  ft.  in  diameter, 
swung  on  an  axle,  which  rests  upon  towers  135  ft.  high.  The  purpose 
of  the  wheel  is  that  there  shall  be  hung  from  it,  at  different  points  on 
the  perimeter,  cars  similar  in  character  to  those  used  in  elevators,  the 
lowest  car  resting  on  the  ground  as  the  people  get  into  it.  The  wheel 
is  then  started  in  motion,  and  the  occupants  make  the  complete  circuit 
of  250  ft. 

German  Village. — A  group  of  houses  representative  of  a  German 
village  of  the  present  time ;  also  a  German  to^^^3  of  mediaeval  times. 
There  are  the  houses  of  the  upper  Bavarian  mountains,  the  houses  of 
the  Black  Forest,  the  Hessian  and  Altenberg  house  of  Silesian  peasants, 
representing  the  middle  Germans,  the  Westphalien  Hof,  the  Lower 
Saxons,  the  Hallighaus,  the  Friesen,  and  the  house  from  Spreewald  and 
Niederdeutsche.  In  the  various  houses  is  installed  original  household 
furniture,  so  characteristic  as  to  be  readily  distinguished  as  belonging 
to  particular  tribes. 

Hagenheck  Atiimal  Shovj. — A  trained  troupe  of  from  60  to  90  ani- 
mals, including  lions,  tigers,  dogs,  cattle,  horses,  elephants,  etc.,  at  play 
about  the  cage.  They  go  through  many  athletic  performances,  which 
can  be  believed  only  after  it  has  been  seen. 

Ice  Railway. — The  railway  is  built  on  an  incline,  and  is  a  practical 
summer  toboggan  slide.  The  ice  which  covers  the  surface  of  the  in- 
cline is  made  and  perpetuated  by  machinery. 

Irish  Industries. — An  exhibit  of  the  Irish  cottage  industries,  includ- 
ing a  reproduction  of  the  ruins  of  Donegal  Castle,  making  habitable 
such  rooms  as  possible  without  destroying  the  historical  beauty  of  the 
ruins. 

Japanese  Bazaars. — These  show  the  Japanese  people,  their  customs, 
and  merchandise.  The  bazaars  are  operated  under  contract  with  the 
Imperial  Japanese  Commission. 


598  APPENDIX. 

Lihhey  Glass  Exhibit. — The  company  will  demonstrate  the  produc- 
tion of  glassware,  except  plate  and  window  glass.  The  building  is 
largely  constructed  of  glass,  and  the  exterior  set  with  prisms  of  cut 
glass,  like  great  diamonds.  The  plant  includes  a  sixteen-pit  furnace, 
cutting,  etching,  engraving,  and  decorating  shops,  and  a  great  display 
of  glassware. 

Minaret  Tourer. — A  reproduction  of  a  Turkish  structure,  the  con- 
cession being  operated  by  Turks.  Among  the  attractions  here  is  a  sil- 
ver bed  once  owned  by  a  Sultan.  It  is  said  to  weigh  two  tons,  and  to  be 
composed  of  2,000  pieces.  There  is  also  shown  an  immense  embroid- 
ered tent,  once  owned  by  the  Shah  of  Persia. 

Moorish  Palace. — This  building  is  in  design  after  the  style  of  old 
Moorish  temples,  the  remains  of  which  are  still  found  in  some  por- 
tions of  Spain  and  northern  Africa.  In  this  building  are  various  novel- 
ties in  the  line  of  illusions,  camera-obscura,  etc.  There  is  also  a  res- 
taurant which  is  capable  of  seating  500  people.  One  of  the  great  at- 
tractions in  this  building  is  the  exhibit  of  $1,000,000  in  gold  coins. 

Morocco. — Similar  to  the  other  national  sections. 

Natatorium. — The  building  is  190  to  250  ft.,  and  has  a  large  swim- 
ming-pool. There  are  a  cafe  and  bakery  in  connection  with  the  natato- 
rium. 

Nursery  Exhibit. — This  is  the  final  exhibit  in  the  Plaisance,  occu- 
pying about  five  acres  in  the  western  end  of  the  tract.  It  is  sought 
here  to  show  the  most  artistic  eifects  possible  in  a  combination  of 
flowers  and  shrubbery. 

Panorama  of  the  Bernese  Alps. — Here  is  shown  the  scenery  of  the 
Alps,  and  in  connection  with  this  feature  is  an  exhibition  of  the  manu- 
factured products  of  the  country. 

Panorama  of  the  Volcano  of  Kilauea. — This  volcano  is  supposed  to 
have  the  greatest  crater  in  existence.  The  visitor  is  taken  to  an  island 
in  the  center  of  the  crater,  and,  while  suri'ounded  by  a  sea  of  fire, 
views  the  scenery  around  the  volcano. 

Pompeiian  House. — A  reproduction  of  a  typical  house  of  ancient 
Pompeii.  Installed  in  the  house  is  an  exhibit  of  articles  gathered  from 
the  excavated  ruins  of  the  ancient  city. 

Sliding  Railivay. — On  the  southern  edge  of  the  Plaisance  and  ex- 
tending its  entire  length.  It  is  a  French  invention,  and  was  first  given 
a  practical  demonstration  in  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1889.  It  is  an 
elevated  road,  the  cars  having  no  wheels.  The  rail  is  8  in.  wide,  the 
substitute  for  the  wheel  being  a  shoe,  which  sets  over  the  side  of  the 
rail,  and  is  practically  water-tight.  The  speed  claimed  by  the  inventors 
is  120  to  160  miles  an  hour. 

Street  in  Cairo. — The  street  is  constituted  of  reproductions  of  his- 
toric buildings  in  the  Egyptian  city.  Shops,  mosques,  a  theatre,  a  danc- 
ing-hall, etc.,  are  shown  in  the  buildings.  The  customs  of  the  people 
are  delineated,  many  attractions  peculiar  to  Arabia  and  the  Soudan  are 
introduced,  and  curiosities  from  the  museums  in  Cairo  and  Alexandria 
are  exhibited. 

Toioer  of  Babel. — This  structure  is  400  ft.  in  height,  diameter  at 


APPENDIX.  599 

base  100  ft.  The  ascent  of  the  tower  is  made  by  a  double-track,  circu- 
lar electric  railway,  by  elevators,  and  by  a  broad  walk.  At  the  top  a 
chime  of  bells  is  installed,  and  meteorological  experiments  are  con- 
ducted. 

Tunisian  and  Algerian  Section. — Typical  people  of  northern  Africa 
show  here  their  mode  of  life,  their  amusements,  and  their  manufactures. 
Several  tribes  are  represented,  each  having  its  chief  or  sheik.  The 
minaret  tower  is  in  this  section. 

Turkish  Village. — A  reproduction  of  one  of  the  old  street  squares 
in  Stamboul.  The  people  and  the  goods  of  Turkey  in  Europe  and 
Turkey  in  Asia  are  shown.  Entertainments  peculiar  to  the  people  are 
given. 

Other  Features. 

Besides  the  foregoing,  many  features  of  interest  w^ell  worthy  of 
notice  should  be  described ;  but  it  is  impossible  in  this  Appendix  to  do 
adequate  justice  to  everything,  and  therefore  the  minor  attractions  are 
left  for  those  works  which  deal  exclusively  with  the  World's  Fair. 


TABLE  OF  RAILWAY  AND  STEAMBOAT  FARES 

From  New  York  to  the  Leading  Cities  and  Places  of  Interest  in  the 
United  States  and  Canada. 

I^"  The  Railway  named  is  that  by  which  the  traveler  leaves  New  York. 

1^^  The  rates  given  are  those  which  obtain  at  the  time  of  going  to  press,  but 
are  liable  to  slight  variations.  They  are  both  for  unlimited  and  limited  tickets. 
Unlimited  tickets  are  good  until  used,  and  permit  of  stop-over  at  any  place  and 
for  any  time  en  route.  The  limited  tickets  are  good  for  continuous  passage  only, 
and  will  not  permit  of  stop-over.  We  do  not  give  the  price  of  excursion-tickets 
(good  for  passage  both  ways),  as  these  are  so  variable  at  different  times  and  are 
issued  to  but  few  points. 


NEW  YOEK  TO 

VIA 

Unlimited. 

Limited. 

Aiken   S.  C             

Baltimore,  Washington,  Lynchburg 
Washington,    Kichmond,    &    Wil- 
mington      

$3  10 

2  00 

3  25 

5  30 
5  30 
5  30 

4  00 

9  25 
29  40 
29  40 
32  65 

8  00 
4  25 

20  00 

$23  25 

23  25 

Albany,  N.Y 

Hudson  Eiver  or  West  Shore  E.  E. . 
Steamboat 

Harrisburg,  Luray,  and  Eoanoke. . . 
Washington,  Lynchburg,  and  Char- 
lotte 

Atlanta,  Ga         

24  00 

24  00 

u                u 

Washington,  Lynchburg,  and  Bristol 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  and  Shenandoah 

Junction           

24  00 

((                   u 

24  00 

U                         (4 

Washington,    Eichmond     &     Sea- 

24  00 

Atlantic  City,  N.  J 

lennsylvania  or  New  Jersey  South- 
em  E.  E 

Baltimore,  Norfolk,  Weldon,    and 

23  00 

"           " 

Washington,  Eichmond,  and  Wil- 

23  00 

u               u 

Washmgton,  Lynchburg,  and  Dan- 
ville          ' 

23  00 

Baltimore   Md 

Pennsylvania  E  E             .  •   . 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E. 

Boston  Mass 

New  York  &  New  Haven  E.  E 

Fall  Eiver,  or  Stonington,  or  Provi- 
dence, or  Norwich  steamers 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  or  West 
Shore  E.  E 

Buffalo,  N.  Y 

Burlington,  Iowa 

New  York  Central  E  E        .... 

26  15 

Erie  or  West  Shore  E.  E 

26  15 

((              ii. 

Pennsylvania  E  E                       .       . 

26  15 

(.              u 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E 

23  15 

Burlington,  Vt        .... 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  Eiver 
E.  E 

Cape  May,  N.  J 

New  Jersey  Southern  or  Pennsylva- 
nia E  E  . .             

Charleston,  S.  C 

Baltimore,  Norfolk,  and  Weldon. .. 

Washington  and  Eichmond 

Washington,  Lynchburg,  Danville, 
Charlotte,  and  Columbia 

21  55 
21  55 

21  55 

Chattanooga,  Tenn 

Steamer  (Pier  19,  East  Eiver) 

Washington,  Lynchburg,  and  Bristol 

Washington,  Lynchburg,  Asheville 

and  Knoxville 

23  00 
23  00 

Table  of  Railway  and  Steamboat  Fares.— (Continued/ 


NEW  YORK  TO 


VIA 


Chattanooga.  Tenu. 

Chicago,  111 

Chicago,  111 

Cincinnati,  Ohio  . . . 


Cleveland,  Ohio 

Colorado  Springs,  Col . . 

Columbus,  Ohio 

CooperstowTi,  N.  Y 

Delaware  Wat. -Gap,  Pa 
Denver,  Col 

Detroit,  Mich 

Frankfort,  Ky , 

Galveston,  Texas 

Halifax,  Can 

Hartford,  Conn 

Hot  Springs,  Ark 

Houston,  Texas 

Indianapolis,  Ind 

Jacksonville,  Fla 

Kansas'  City,  Mo 

U  U  (1 

Kingston,  Can 


Baltimore  &  Ohio,  and  Shenandoah 
Junction 

New  York  Central  R.  R 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.H 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  or  West 
Shore  R.  R 

Pennsvlvania  R.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  or  West 
Shore  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

New  York  Central  R.  R 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  Baltimore 
&  Ohio,  or  Pennsylvania  R.  R  . . . 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 
R.  R 

Morris  &  Essex  (Delaware,  Lacka- 
wanna, &  Western)  R.  R 

New  York  Central  R.  R 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  Baltimore 
&  Ohio,  or  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  . . . 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  or  Penn- 
sylvania  .- 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  Pennsylva- 
nia, or  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R, 
(Western  Route) 

Washington,  Atlanta,  and  New  Or- 
leans  

Steamer  (Pier  20,  East  River) 

New  York  &  NeAv  Haven  R.  R 

Pennsylvania,  Erie,  Baltimore  & 
Ohio,  or  New  York  Central  R.  R. 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  Pennsylva- 
nia, or  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R. 
(Western  Route) 

Washington,  Atlanta,  and  New  Or- 
leans  

New  York  Central  or  Erie 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  R.  R 

Baltimore,  Norfolk,  and  Weldon  . . . 

Washington,  Richmond,  and  Wil- 
mington  

Washington  and  Atlanta,  or  Colum- 
bia  , 

Steamer  (Pier  19,  East  River) 

New  York  Central  R.  R 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

Washington,  Atlanta,  and  Mem- 
phis  

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 
R.R 


$22  25 
26  50 
26  50 
26  50 

21  25 
21  50 
21  50 

14  25 
16  50 
52  90 
52  90 
56  95 


18  40 
6  15 


22  50 

23  80 


25  00 


20 


liS  00 
20  00 
20  00 

17  00 
20  00 

18  00 
18  00 
16  00 

13  00 
13  00 
49  90 
49  90 
49  90 
45  15 

15  25 


2  55 
52  90 
52  90 
56  95 

49  90 
49  90 
49  90 
45  15 

21  00 

16  25 

25  35 

20  80 

46  30 

50  00 

20  00 

2  65 

46  30 
18  00 

32  40 


44  80 

44  80 
19  00 
17  00 
29  15 

29  15 

29  15 

31  75 
31  75 
31  75 

27  00 

31  75 


Table  of  Railway  and  Steamboat  Fares. — (Continued.) 


NEW  YORK  TO 

VIA 

Unlimited 

Limited. 

LeadvUle,  Col 

New  York  Central  R.  R 

$60  90 
60  90 
64  95 

1  35 
1  00 

24  75 

25  00 

25  00 
11  70 

26  15 
26  15 
30  40 

3  45 

24  80 
24  80 
29  05 

33  75 
33  75 
38  00 

10  00 

1  75 

$57  90 
57  90 

U                        (( 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  E 

il                      u 

57  90 

ti             it 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

53  15 

Little  Eock,  Ark 

Long  Branch,  N.  J 

Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  Baltimore    & 
Ohio  R.  R.,  and  St.  Louis  or  Cairo 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  R.  R.  and  St. 
Louis  or  Cairo 

Washington,  Atlanta  &  Memphis.. . 

Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey 

New  Jersey  Southern  (Pier  14,  North 
River) 

33  00 

33  00 

33  00 

1  00 

Los  Angeles,  Cal 

Pennsylvania  or  New  York  Central 
RE.           ..                 

91  75 

a                    a 

Erie  or  West  Shore 

91  75 

i.                     a 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R. 

87  00 

Louisville,  Ky 

Washington,     Atlanta,     New     Or- 
leans &So.  Pac.  E.  E............ 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  or  West 
Shore  E.  E     

91  75 

21  50 

;(                   u 

21  50 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E 

19  50 

Pennsyl.  or  Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E. 
NeM^  York  Central  E.  E 

Madison  Wis 

23  90 

Erie  w  West  Shore  E  E 

23  90 

U                                 4i 

23  90 

11                                 (1 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E 

20  90 

Maucli  Chunk,  Pa 

Morris  &  Essex  or  New  Jersey  Cen- 
tral E.  E 

Memphis,  Tenn 

Cincinnati  and  Louisville  (Western 
Eoute) 

29  50 

"             "     

Washingtonand  Lynchburg  (Atlan- 

29  50 

Mexico  Mex 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  West  Shore, 
Baltimore  &  Ohio,  and  Pennsylva- 
nia E.  E.  via  Laredo 

85  20 

Milwaukee  Wis 

New  York  Central  E  E           .      . 

22  55 

Erie  or  West  Shore  E.  E 

22  55 

U                               1.1. 

Pennsylvania  E  E .       .     .        ... 

22  55 

t(             11 

Baltimore  &■  Ohio  E.  E 

19  55 

Minneapolis,  Minn 

New  York  Central  E.  E 

31  50 

Erie  or  West  Shore  E.  E 

21  50 

"                 "■     

Pennsylvania  E.  E . . 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E 

31  50 

28  50 

Mobile,  Ala 

Cincinnati  and  Louisville  (Western 
Eoute) 

Baltimore  or  Washington  (Southern 
Eoute) 

32  00 

32  00 

Montgomery,  Ala 

(Same  routes  as  to  Mobile)  (South- 
em  Eoute) 

28  50 

Montreal,  Can 

New  York  Central  or  New  York  & 
New  Haven  E.  E 

Nashville,  Tenn 

Cincinnati  and  Louisville  (Western 
Eoute) 

23  65 

"    

Washington  and  I/ynchburg  (South- 
ern Eoute) 

25  65 

New  Haven,  Conn 

New  Orleans,  La 

New  York  &  New  Haven  E.  E 

Cincinnati  direct  (Western  Eoute) . . 

Harrisburg,   Eoanoke,  and  Chatta- 
nooga {or  B.  &  0.),  and  Shen.  Jet. 

Washington,  Eichmond    {or  B.   & 
0.).  and  Atlanta 

31  00 
34  00 
34  00 

Table  of  Railway  and  Steamboat  Fares. — (Continued.) 


NEW  YORK  TO      i 


VIA 


New  Orleans,  La. 


Ne^vport,  R.  I. 
Niagara  Falls. 
Norfolk.  Va... 


Northampton,  Mass . 

Oil  City,  Pa 

Omaha,  Neb 


Ottawa,  Can 

Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Pittsburg.  Pa.... 


Pittsfield,  Mass. . 
Plattsbm-g,  N.  Y. 


Portland,  Me.. 
Portland,  Ore. 


Portsmouth,  N.  H. 
Providence,  R.  I. . 


Quebec.  Can. . 
Raleigh,  N.  C. 

Richmond,  Va. 


Rutland,  Vt 

Sacramento,  Cal. 


St.  Augustine,  Fla. 


St.  John,  N.  B. . 
St.  Joseph,  Mo. 


Washington,  Lynchburg,  Charlotte 

&  Atlanta 

Washington,  Richmond,  Weldon  & 

Seaboard  Air  Line 

Steamer  (2  lines) 

New  York  &  New  Haven  R.  R. . . 

Fall  River  steamers 

N.  Y.  Central,  or  West  Shore,  or 

Erie  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

Balciniore  &  Ohio,  and  Bay  Line 

Steamer,  via  Washington 

Steamers  direct 

New  York  &  New  Haven  R.  R. . 

Erie  R.  R 

New  York  Cent';al  R.  R 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

N.    Y.    Central    &    Hudson    River 

R.R 

Pennsylvania  or  New  Jersey  Central 

R.R 

Pennsylvania  or  New  Jersey  Central 

R.R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

New  York  &  New  Haven  R.  R. . . 
New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 

R.R 

New  York  &  New  Haven  R.  R 

Steamer  to  Boston,  thence  by  R.  R. . 
Pennsylvania  or  New  York  Central 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R."  r!  ".!!!'.'!!". ." 

Canada  Pacific 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

(Same  routes  as  to  Portland) 

New  York  &  New  Haven  R.  R 

Steamer  (Pier  29,  North  River) 

New  York  &  New  Haven  R.R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio,  and  Washington. 

Pennsylvania  or  Baltimore  &  Ohio 
R.R 

Steamers  (foot  of  Beach  Street,  North 
River).. 

B.  &  O.  R.  R..  or  Penn.  R.  R.,  and 
York  River  Line 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 
R   R 

New  York  Centrai'R.R.'. .".'.'.'.'.' .'.'.'. 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

Washington,  Richmond,  and  Wil- 
mington   

Washington,  Lynchburg,  Charlotte 
&  Columbia  or  Atlanta      

Steamers  to  Charleston  or  Savannah 

New  York  &  New  Haven  R.  R 

New  York  Central  R.  R 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 


$35  00 
5  00 

3  00 

9  25 
8  30 
8  30 
800 
8  00 

4  25 
13  35 
35  00 
35  00 
39  25 


11  35 

2  .50 

12  50 
15  15 

3  28 

8  00 
8  50 
7  00 

104  00 
99  75 
104  00 


4  50 
4  00 
12  00 


10  00 
9  00 
7  80 
5  64 


15  50 
34  75 
34  75 


$34  00 
24  00 


10  90 
32  75 
32  75 
32  75 
29  75 


10  50 


6  50 

87  50 
87  50 
75  50 
86  50 

4  50 


14  25 

15  25 


91  75 
91  75 
91  75 
91  75 

30  65 

30  65 

13  50 

31  75 

31  75 


Table  of  Railway  and  Steamboat  Fares. — (Continued.) 


NEW  YORK  TO 

VIA 

Unlimited. 

$3S  80 

39  75 

St  Louis,  Mo 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  R 

New  York  Central  R.  E 

Erie  or  West  Shoro  E  E 

39  75 

a                   u 

31  30 

a                   u 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  RE. 

31  30 

St.  Paul,  Minn 

New  York  Central  R  R 

33  75 

Erie  or  West  Shore  RE      

33  75 

iC                      u 

Pennsylvania  E.  E 

38  00 

U                           l< 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  R      

Salt  Lake  City,  Utah... 

New  York  Central  R.  R 

74  75 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 

74  75 

.t          i(          ii 

Pennsylvania  R  R           ... 

78  80 

u               u               u 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

San  Francisco  Cal 

New  York  Central  R  R 

Erie  or  West  Shore  R.  R 

Pennsylvania  R.  R.  &  New  Orleans. 
Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

Canada  Pacific  via  Portland,  Ore. . . 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 

01^  West  Shore  R.  R 

4  20 

Savannah,  Ga 

Washington,  Richmond,  &  Charles- 

u                  u 

Washington,  Lynchburg,  and  Char- 
lotte  .■". 

a 

Steamer  (Pier  35,  North  River) 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 
E  E 

20  00 

Sharon  Springs,  N.  Y. . 

4  90 

Springfield,  111 

New  York  Central  E.  E 

27  00 

Erie  or  West  Shore  E.  E 

27  00 

a                    u 

Pennsylvania  E.  E 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E 

New  York  &  New  Haven  E.  E 

Pennsylvania  or  Baltimore  &  Ohio 

29  60 

u                   u 

29  60 

Springfield,  Mass 

2  75 

Toledo  Ohio 

New  York  Central  or  Erie 

17  35 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  E.  E. 

19  75 

New  York  Central,  Erie,  or  Pennsyl- 
vania E.  E 

11  85 

TrentonFalls,  N.  Y... 

New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River 
R.  R 

5  54 

Vancouver   B.  C     

Canada  Pacific 

104  00 

Washington,  D.  C 

B.  &  0.,  and  Northern  Pacific  R.  E. 
B.  &  0.,  and  Canada  Pacific  E.  E. 
Pennsylvania  or  Baltimore  &  Ohio 

6  50 

WatkinsGlen,  N.Y.... 
White  Mountains,  N.  H. 

Erie  or  New  York  Central  E.  E 

New  York  &  New  Haven  E.  E 

Any  steamer  route  to  Boston,  thence 
by  E  E      . 

7  85 
9  75 

8  00 

White  Sul.  Springs,  Va. 

Pennsylvania  w^  Baltimore  &  Ohio 

13  80 

Wilkesbarre,  Pa 

Morris  &  Essex  or  New  Jersey  Cen- 
tral E.  E 

5  00 

WUmington,  N.  C 

Pennsylvania  or  Baltimore  &  Ohio 
E.E  

Winnipeg,  Manitoba... 

New  York  Central  E.  E  . . .         .... 

47  95 

Erie  or  West  Shore  E.  E 

47  95 

"                 " 

Pennsylvania  E.  R 

Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 

52  20 

Yosemite  Valley,  Cal, . 


Side  excursion  from  San  Francisco 


50  00 


1  N  I)  K  X. 


ABENAQtnS  SPRrXGS,\'t., 

147. 
Adamg.  Mass.,  169. 
Addison  Junction,  N.  Y., 

203. 
Adirondack  Mts.,  216. 
Adrian,  Mich.,  302. 
Agassiz,  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  128. 
Aguascalientes.Mex.,454. 
Aiken,  S.  C,  514. 
Akron,  Ohio,  306. 
Alaska,  428. 
Albany,  N.  Y.,  72,  291. 
Albion,  N.Y.,  181. 
Albuquerque,  N.  M.,  445. 
Alburgh  Springs,  Vt.,145. 
Aleutian  Islands,  428. 
Alexandria  Bay,  173,  262. 
Alexandria,  Va.,  503. 
Allatoona,  Ga.,  545. 
Alleghany  Mts.,  238,  309, 

568. 
Alleghany  Springs,  Va., 

567. 
Allegheny  City.  Pa.,  241, 

309. 
AJlentown,  Pa.,  204. 
Alton  Bav.  N.  H.,  133. 
Alton,  111.,  .373. 
Altoona,  Pa.,  238,  308. 
Amherst,  Mass.,  155. 
Amiscalolah   Falls,   Ga., 

574. 
Ammonoosuc    Falls,    N. 

H.,  128. 
Ampersand  Mt.,   N.  Y., 

222. 
Amsterdam,  N.  Y.,  172. 
Andover,  Mass.,  114. 
Annanance  Mt.,  Vt.,  153. 
Annapolis,  Can.,  285. 
Annapolis  Junction,  Md., 

311. 
Ann  Arbor,  Mich.,  295. 
Anthony's  Nose  Mt.,  N. 

Y.,  70. 
Apostles'  Island,  470. 
Appalachicola,  Fla.,  534. 
Appledore  Island,  N.  H., 

111. 
Appomattox,  Va..  .507. 
Arkansas  Canon, Col., 436. 
Arlington  House,  Va,,  66. 


Arthabaska,  Can.,  142. 
Asbury  Park,  N.  J.,  25. 
Ascutney  Mt.,  Vt.,  1.52. 
Asheville,  N.  C,  569. 
Ashland,  Ore.,  427. 
Ashland,  Va.,  504. 
Astoria,  Ore.,  485. 
Atchison,  Kan.,  432. 
Athens,  Ga.,502. 
Athens,  Ohio,  316. 
Athens,  Pa..  208. 
Atlanta,  Ga.,  538. 
Atlantic  City,  N.  J.,  45. 
Attica,  N.  Y.,  192. 
Auburn,  N.  Y.,  175. 
Augusta,  Ga.,  575. 
Augusta,  Me.,  138. 
Aurora,  111.,  .388. 
Aurora,  Ind.,  348. 
Ausable  Chasm,  215,  226. 
Ausable  Forks,  N.  Y.,223. 
Ausable    Ponds,   N.  Y., 

Austin,  Minn.,  379. 
Austin,  Tex.,  4.56. 
Avalanche  Lake.  N.  Y., 

221. 
A  Vila  Hot  Springs,  Cal., 

410. 
Avon  Springs,  N.Y.,  191. 
Ayer  Junction,  Mass. ,146. 

Babylon,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Baddeck,  Can.,  287. 
Bald  Eagle  Lake,  Minn., 

381. 
Bald  Head  Mt.,  Mass.,  167. 
Bald  Mt,  N.  H.,  131. 
Baldwin,  Fla.,  .520,  .531. 
Baldwin,  N.  Y.,  211. 
Ball's  Cave,  N.  Y.,  245. 
Balsam  Mts.,  N.  C,  .568, 

572. 
Ballston  Spa.  N.  Y.,  198. 
Baltimore,  Md.,  47. 
Banff  Hot  Springs,  Can., 

497. 
Bangor,  Me.,  138. 
Bardstown,  Ky.,  548. 
Bar  Harbor,  Me.,  136. 
Baranof  Islands,  428. 
Barnegat,  N.  J.,  46. 
Bartlett,  N.  H.,  117. 


Bartonsville,  Vt..  147. 
Bash-Bish  Falls,  164. 
Basin    of    Minas,    Can., 

284 
Batavia,  N.  Y.,178,  298. 
Bath  Alum  Springs,  Va., 

.566. 
Bath,  Me.,  135. 
Baton  Eouge,  La.,  584. 
Battle  Creek,  Mich.,  296. 
Bayfield,  Wis.,  470. 
Bayside,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Beach's  Lake,  N.  Y.,  220. 
Beacon  Hill,  N.  Y.,  70. 
Bear  Creek  Canon,  Col., 

438. 
Beaufort,  S.  C,  514. 
Beauharnois,  Can.,  264. 
Beaumont,  Tex.,  560. 
Bedford  Springs,  Pa.,  23S. 
Bedloe's  Island,  22. 
Belchertown,  Mass.,  1.55. 
Belden's  Falls,  Vt.,  148. 
Belfast,  Me.,  138. 
Belknap  Mt.,  N.  H.,  133. 
Bellaire,  Ohio,  315. 
Bellefontaine,  Ohio,  349. 
Belle  Island,  Mich.,  295. 
Bellows  Falls,   Vt.,   147, 

152. 
Beloit.  Wis.,  383. 
Bellport,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Belvidere,  N.  J.,  249. 
Bemis,  N.  H..  117. 
Benicia,  Cal,,  400. 
Benjamin's     Falls,    Vt., 

144. 
Bennington,  Vt.,  171. 
Berkeley  Springs,  W.Va., 

313,  562. 
Berkshire    Hills,    Mass., 

165. 
Berkshire  Soda  Springs, 

165. 
Berlin,  Conn.,  80. 
Berlin  Falls,  N.  H.,  128. 
Bernardston,  Mass.,  152. 
Bethel,  Me.,  118. 
Bethlehem,  N.  H.,  128. 
Bethlehem,  Pa.,  204. 
Beverly,  Mass.,  1  0. 
Biddeford,  Me.,ll2. 
Billings,  Mon.,  475. 


606 


INDEX. 


Binghamton,  N.  Y..  190 

304. 
Birmingham,  Ala.,  547. 
Birmingham,  Pa.,  240. 
Birmingham  Falls,  N.  Y., 

226. 
Bismarck,  Dak.,  474. 
Black  Chasm  Falls,   N. 

Y.,  76. 
Black  Hawk,  Col.,  438. 
Black  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  212. 
Black  Mts.,N.  C,  569. 
Blackstone,  Mass.,  89. 
BlackweirsIcl.,N.Y.,22. 
Blairsville,  Pa.,  239. 
Blennerhassett      Island, 

Ohio,  575. 
Block  Island,  R.  I.,  85. 
Bloomington,  111.,  372. 
Blue  Mt.  Lake,    N.  Y., 

220. 
Blue  Mt.,  Me.,  140. 
Blue  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  219. 
Blue  Ridge  Mts.,  N.  C, 

544,  568. 
Blue  Spring,  Fla.,  528. 
Bolivar,  Tenn.,  552. 
Bolton.  N.Y.,  211. 
Bolton  Palls,  Vt.,  144. 
Bomoseen  Lake,  Vt.,  162. 
Bonsack's,  Va.,  544. 
Boone,  la..  384, 
Boonton,  N.  J.,  234. 
Boonville,  N.  Y.,  173. 
Bordentown,  N.  J.,  31. 
Boston,  Mass.,  95. 
Boulder  Canon,  Col.,  439. 
Bound  Brook,  jST.  J.,  31. 
Bowling  Green,  Ky.,  549. 
Bozeman,  Mon.,  480. 
Brainerd,  Minn.,  473. 
Brandon,  Can.,  497. 
Brandon,  Vt.,  148. 
Branford,  Conn.,  84. 
Bras  d'Or,  Can.,  287. 
Brattleboro,  Vt.,  152. 
Bread  Loaf  Inn,  Vt.,  148. 
Breakneck  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  70. 
Bremond,  Tex.,  456. 
Brevard,  N.  C,  572. 
Brewster,  Mass.,  158. 
Brewster,  N.  Y.,  89. 
Bridal  VeU    Falls,   Cal., 

414. 
Bridgehampton,    N.    Y., 

232. 
Bridgeport,  Conn.,  77. 
Bridgewater,  Mass.,  1.58. 
Bridgton,  Me.,  116. 
Bridgton  Center,  Me., 116. 
Brighton,  Mass.,  106. 
Brighton  Beach,  N.Y.,  23. 
Bristol,  Tenn.,  544. 
Bristol,  Vt.,  148. 


Brockport,  N.  Y..  180. 
Brockton,  Mass.,  1.58. 
Brockville,  Can.,  263. 
Brookline,  Mass.,  106. 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  25. 
Brown  LTniversity,  87. 
Brunswick,  Me.,  135. 
Budd's  Lake,  N.  J.,  235. 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  178,  292. 
BurkeviUe,  Va.,  507. 
Burlington,  la.,  388. 
Burlington,  N.  J.,  31. 
Burlington,  Vt.,  149. 
Burrton,  Kan.,  432. 
Butte  City,  Mon.,  482. 
Buttermilk  Falls,  N.  Y., 
70. 

Cacouna,  Can.,  274. 
Caesar's  Head  Mt.,  S.  C, 

572. 
Cairo,  111., 371. 
Cairo,  N.  Y.,  74. 
Calaveras  Grove  of  Big 

Trees  400  ^ 

Caldwell,  n!  Y.,  210. 
Caldwell's   Landing,    N. 

Y.,  69. 
Calera,  Miss.,  544. 
Calgary,  Can.,  497. 
Calistoga,  Cal.,  419. 
Cambridge,  Mass.,  108. 
Camden,  N.  J.,  31. 
Camel's  Hump,  Vt.,  144. 
Cameron,  Pa.,  247. 
Camp  Taylor,  Cal.,  417. 
Canaan,  Conn.,  165. 
Canandaigua,  N.  Y.,  176. 
Canastota,  N.  Y.,  194. 
Canon  City,  Col.,  436. 
Canton;  Miss.,  552. 
Canton,  Ohio,  310. 
Cape  Arundel,  Me.,  115. 
Cape  Breton,  287. 
Cape  Cod,  Mass.,  158. 
Cape  Elizabeth,  Me.,  115. 
Cape  Horn,  Cal.,  399. 
Cape  May,  N.  J.,  44. 
Cape  Rosier,  Can.,  275. 
CapeTourment,  Can.,  274. 
Cape  Trinity,  Can.,  276. 
Cape  Vincent,  N.  Y.,  174. 
Capon  Springs,  Va.,  563. 
Carbondale,  111.,  371. 
Carbondale,  Pa.,  243. 
Carlisle,  Pa.,  255. 
Carlyle,  lU.,  349. 
Carmel,  N.  Y.,  89. 
Carson,  Nev.,  398. 
Carter  Mt.,  N.  H.,  124. 
Cartersville,  Ga.,  545. 
Carthage,  Mo.,  491. 
Casa  Grande,  Ariz.,  452. 
Cascade  Canon,  Col.,  433. 


Casey ville.  111.,  349. 
Cashier's  Valley,  N.  C. 

570. 
Casselton,  Dak.,  474. 
Castine,  Me.,  135. 
Castleton,  Vt.,  163. 
Catasauqua,  Pa.,  204. 
Catawissa,  Pa.,  252. 
Catoctin  Mt.,  Md.,  311. 
Catskill  Landing,  71. 
CatskillMountams,  N.Y., 

74. 
Catskill,  N.  Y.,  74,  291, 

297. 
Cayuga  Lake,  N.  Y.,  175. 
Cazedero,  Cal.,  418. 
Cedar  Key,  Fla.,  5-32. 
Cedar  Rapids,  la.,  384. 
Center  Harbor,  N.  H.,  134. 
Center  Moriches,  N.  Y., 

233 
Central  City,  Col.,  43S. 
Centralia,  111.,  371. 
Central  Park,  N.  Y.,  16. 
Chambersburg,  Pa..  255. 
Champaign,  111.,  370. 
Champlam  Lake,  21 '. 
Chancellorsville,  Va.,503. 
Charlemont,  Mass.,  161. 
Charleston,  S.  C,  509. 
Charlestown,  Mass.,  105. 
Charleston,  W.  Va.,  545. 
Charlotte    Harbor,    Fla., 

538. 
Charlotte,  N.  C,  508. 
Charlottesville,  Va.,  537. 
Charlottetown,  Can.,  288. 
Chateaugay  Lakes,  N.  Y., 

215. 
Chateau  Richer,  Can.,'273. 
Chatham,  N.  Y.,  162. 
Chattanooga.  Tenn.,  .546. 
Chattahoochee,  Fla.,  548. 
Chaudiere    Falls,     Can., 

273,  278. 
Chautauqua,  N.  Y.,  254. 
Chautauqua  Lake,  N.  Y., 

304. 
Cheat  River  Valley,  314. 
Chelsea,  Mass.,  106. 
Cherry  Valley,  N.Y.,  245. 
Cheshire.  Mass.,  169. 
Chester,  Mass.,  162. 
Chester,  Pa.,  46. 
Chester,  Vt.,  147. 
Cheyenne,  Wy.,  393. 
Cheyenne    Canon,    Col., 

435. 
Chicago,  111.,  316. 
Chicago  Lake,  Col.,  439. 
Chico,  Cal.,  426. 
Chicopee,  Mass.,  151. 
Chicoutimi,  Can.,  276. 
Chihuahua,  Mex.,  453. 


INDEX. 


607 


Chillicothe.  Ohio,  316. 
Chimney  Rock.  579. 
Chittenango,  N.  Y..  174. 
Chocorna  Lake,  N.H.,  118. 
Christiana.  Pa..  236. 
Cincinnati.  Ohio.  335. 
Cinnabar.  Wy..  475. 
Clarendon   Springs,  Yt., 

148. 
Clarksburg.  W.  Ya.,  315. 
ClarksviUe,  Ga..  573. 
Clatsop  Beach,  Ore.,  485. 
Clavton.  Ga..  573. 
Clayton.  N.  Y.,  262. 
Clear  Creek  Canon,  Col., 

438. 
Cleveland,  Ohio,  298,  463. 
Clifton    Forge,   W.  Ya., 

546. 
Clifton  Springs,  N.  Y.,  176. 
Clingman's   Dome    Mt., 

N  C    569. 
Clinton',  la."  3&4,  580. 
Coatesville,  Pa..  307. 
Cobleskill,  N.  Y.,  244. 
Cochituate  Lake,  Mass., 

84. 
Cceur  d'Alene  Lake,  Ida- 
ho, 483. 
Coeyman's  Junction,  193, 

296. 
Cohasset,  Mass.,  157. 
Cohoes,  N.  Y.,  198. 
Cold  Harbor,  Ya.,  501. 
Cold  Mt.,  N.  C,  569. 
Cold  Spring,  N.  Y.,  70. 
Colden  Lake,  N.  Y.,  216. 
Colebrook,  N.  H.,  141. 
College  Point,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Colorado  Grand   Canon, 

Ariz.,  447. 
Colorado  Springs,  434. 
Columbia,  S.  C,  508. 
Columbia  Springs,  N.  Y., 

71. 
Columbia,  Tenn.,  551. 
Columbian     Exposition, 

325,  585. 
Columbus,  Ga.,  .541. 
Columbus,  Ind.,  369. 
Columbus,  Ky.,  .581. 
Columbus,  Ohio,  331. 
Como  Lake,  Minn.,  381. 
Conanicut  Id.,  R.  I.,  94. 
Concord,  Mass.,  146. 
Concord,  N.  H.,  143. 
Conemaugh,  Pa.,  239, 309. 
Coney  Island,  N.  Y.,  23. 
Congers,  N.  Y.,  297. 
Conneaut,  Ohio,  298. 
Conway,  N.  H.,  118. 
Cooperstown,  N.  Y.,  243. 
Copple  Crown  Mt.,  N.  H., 

133. 


Corinne,  F.  T.,  397. 
Corning.  N.  Y..  191. 
Cornish,  Me.,  116. 
Cornwall.  Can..  264. 
Cornwall  Bridge,  Conn., 

164. 
Cornwall  Landing,  N.  Y., 

70. 
Coronado  Beach,Cal..424. 
Corpus  Christi,  Tex.,  460. 
Corry.  Pa.,  254,  305. 
Corsicana,  Tex.,  456. 
Cortland,  N.  Y.,  250. 
Coshocton,  Ohio,  331. 
Coteau  Rapids,  264. 
Cottonwood,  Kan.,  437. 
Cotuit  Port.  Mass.,  1.58. 
Council  Bluffs,  la.,  385. 
Covington,  Ky.,  343. 
Cowpens,  S.  C.  538. 
Coyner's    Springs,    Va., 

566. 
Cranston's  Hotel,  N.  Y., 

70. 
Crawford  House,  126. 
Creedmoor.  N.  Y.,  234. 
Crescent  City,  Fla.,  527. 
Cresson  Springs,  Pa.,  238, 

309. 
Creston,  Wy.,  394. 
Cro'  Nest  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  70. 
Crookston,  Minn.,  491. 
Croton  Aqueduct,  N.  Y.. 

69. 
Crown  Point,  N.  Y.,  214. 
Crystal  Cascade,  123. 
Crystal  Lake,  HI.,  383. 
Culpeper,  Va.,  536. 
Cumberland,  Md.,  313. 
Currahee  Mt.,  Ga.,  573. 
Cutchogue,  N.  Y.,  232. 

Dallas,  Tex.,  456. 
Dalles  City,  Ore.,  484. 
Dalton,  Ga.,  544. 
Dalton,  Mass.,  162. 
Danbury,  Conn.,  90. 
Dancy's  Wharf,  Fla.,  527. 
Dannemora,  N.  Y.,  215. 
Danville,  Can.,  142. 
Danville,  Pa.,  252. 
Danville,  Ind.,  352. 
Danville,  Ya.,  598. 
Dartmouth  College,  153. 
Dartmouth    Lake,   Can., 

286. 
Davenport,  la.,  583,  580. 
Dayton,  Ohio,  329. 
Daytona,  Fla.,  530. 
Decatur,  Ala.,  551. 
Dedham,  Mass.,  89. 
Deep  Rock  Spring,  N.Y., 

250. 
Deerfleld,  Mass,  152. 


Deer's  Leap  Mt.,  N.  Y., 
212. 

Deiaw^are,  Ohio,  329. 
Delaware  Water-Gap,  195. 
Delia  Lake,  N.  Y.,  220. 
Deming,  Ariz..  451. 
Denison,  Tex.,  455. 
Denver.  Col.,  433. 
Des  Moines,  la.,  387. 
Detroit,  Mich.,  292. 
Detroit,  Minn.,  473. 
Devil's  Lake,  Minn.,  474. 
Diablo  Canon,  Ariz.,  447. 
Diamond  Island,   N.  Y., 

211. 
Digby  Gut,  Can.,  285. 
Dixon,  111.,  384. 
Dixville    Notch,    N.  H., 

141. 
Dome  Island,  N.  Y.,  211. 
Donaldsonville,  La.,  .561. 
Donner  Lake,  Col.,  398. 
Dorchester,  Mass.,  89. 
Doubling  Gap  Spring,Pa., 

255 
Dover,  N.  H.,  115. 
Dover,  N.  J.,  235. 
Downington,  Pa. ,236,307. 
Druid  Hill  Park,  52. 
Drummondville,Can.,187. 
Dubuque,  la.,  579. 
Duluth,  Minn.,  470. 
Duncannon,  Pa.,  237,  3G8. 
Dunderberg  Mt.,  N.  Y., 

69. 
Dunkirk,  N.  Y.,  1[2,  295. 
Dunlap,  la.,  385. 
Dunmore  Lake,  Vt.,  148. 
Du  Quoin,  lU.,  271. 
Durango,  Col.,  437. 

Eagle  Lake,  Me.,  136. 
Eagle  Rock,  579. 
Eastatcria  Falls,  Ga.,  573. 
Eastham,  Mass.,  1.58. 
East  Hampton,  N.Y.,  222. 
East  Lyme,  Conn.,  84. 
Easton,  Pa.,  203. 
Eatonton,  Ga.,  540. 
Eau  Claire.  Wis.,  383. 
Echo  Canon.  U.  T.,  394. 
Echo  Lake,  N.  H.,  130. 
Edgartown,  Mass.,  160. 
Effingham,  111.,  3.54,  370. 
Elgin,  111.,  389. 
Elizabeth,  N.  J.,  30,  3'  7. 
Elizabethtown,  N.Y.,  226. 
Elizabethtowm,  W.  Va., 

314. 
Elkhart,  Ind.,  302. 
Elkhorn,  Neb.,  393. 
Elko,  Nev.,  397. 
Ellsworth,  Kan.,  431. 
Ellsworth,  Me.,  134. 


608 


INDEX. 


Elmira,  N.  Y.,  191,  304. 

El  Paso,  Tex.,  453. 

El  Paso  del  Norte,  Mex., 

453. 
Emporia,  Kan.,  432. 
Emporium,  Pa.,  247. 
Enterprise,  Fla.,  527. 
Equinox  Mt.,  Vt.,  171. 
Erie  Lake,  462. 
Erie,  Pa.,  298,  462. 
Esopus,  193. 
Espanola,  N.  M.,  438. 
Esquimault,  B.  C,  499. 
Essex  Junction,  Vt.,  144, 

149. 
EstesPark,  Col.,  439. 
Eternity  Bay,  Can.,  276. 
Eureka,  Cal.,  411. 
Eutaw,  Ala.,  547. 
Evansville,  Ind.,  577. 
Everett  Mt.,  Mass.,  165. 
Exeter,  N.  H.,  115. 

Fabyan  House,  128. 
Fairfax,  Cal.,  417. 
Fairfield,  Conn.,  77. 
Fairmount  Park,  41. 
Fairmount,  W.  Va.,  314. 
Fair  Oaks,  Va.,  501. 
Fairplay,  Cal.,  441. 
Fall  River,  Mass.,  94. 
Falls  Village,  Conn.,  164. 
Falmouth  Heights,  Mass., 

159. 
Farso,  Dak.,  473. 
Fartbault,  Minn.,  380. 
Farmington,  Me.,  140. 
Far  Rockaway,  N.Y.,  233. 
Fawn  Leap  Falls,  N.  Y., 

76. 
Fernandina,  Fla.,  .531. 
Fire  Island,  N.  Y.,  233. 
First  View,  Col.,  431. 
Fishkill  Landing,  N.  Y., 

71. 
Fitchburg,  Mass.,  146. 
Fitzwilliam,  N.  H.,  147. 
'Flathead  Lake,  Mon.,483. 
Flat  Rock,  S.  C,  570. 
Florence,  S.  C,  507. 
Flume,  The,  N.  H.,  132. 
Flushing,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Fonda,  N.  Y.,  172. 
Fordham,  N.  Y.,  170. 
Forked  Lake,  N.  Y.,  220. 
Fort  Collins,  Col.,  433. 
Fort  Edward,  N.  Y.,  202. 
Fort  Fred  Steele,Wy.,393, 

394. 
Fort  Hays,  Kan.,  431. 
Fort  Pillow,  Tenn.,  531. 
Fort  Plain,  N.  Y.,  172. 
Fortress  Monroe,  Va.,  499. 
Fort  Scott,  Kan.,  455. 


Fort  Sumter,  S.  C,  513. 
Fort  Ticonderoga,  N.  Y., 

214. 
Fort  Wallace,  Kan.,  481. 
Fort  Washington,  N.  Y., 

68. 
Fort  Wayne,  Ind.,  353. 
Fort  William,  Can.,  496. 
Fort  Worth,  Tex.,  459. 
Fort  Wrangel,  Alaska,428 
Fourth  Lake,  N.  Y.,221. 
Franconia  Mts.,  N.   H., 

130. 
Franconia  Notch,  N.  H., 

130. 
Franklin,  Mass.,  89. 
Franklin,  N.  H.,  143. 
Franklin,  Pa.,  253. 
Fredericksburg,  Va.,  503. 
Fremont,  Neb.,  393. 
French  Broad  River,  571. 
Fresno,  Cal.,  421. 
Frontenac,    Minn.,    378, 

Fryeburg,  Me.,  116. 

Fulton,  111.,  384. 

Fulton  Lakes,  N.  Y.,  221. 

Gainesville,  Fla..  532. 

Gainesville,  Ga.,  538. 

Galesburg,  111.,  388. 

Galena,  Ul.,  580. 

Galveston  Island,  Tex., 
4.58. 

Galveston,  Tex.,  457. 

Gananoque,  Can.,  262. 

Garden  City,  N.  Y.,  231. 

Garden  of  the  Gods,  435. 

Gardiner,  Me.,  138. 

Gardiner's  Island,  N.  Y., 
232. 

Garrett,  O.,  315. 

Garrison's,  N.  Y.,  70. 

Gaspereaux,  Can.,  285. 

Genesee  Falls,  N.  Y.,  177. 

Geneseo,  111.,  386. 

Geneva,  111.,  384. 

Geneva,  N.Y.,  176. 

George  Lake,  Fla.,  527. 

George,  Lake,  N.  Y.,209. 

Georgetown,  Can.,  154. 

Georgetown,  Col.,  439. 

Georgetown,  D.  C,  65. 

Georgiana  Falls,  N.  H., 
132 

Gettysburg,  Pa.,  257. 

Gettysburg  Spring,  Pa,, 
257. 

Geysers  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, 479. 

Geyser  Springs,  Cal.,  419. 

Giant  of  the  Valley  Mt., 
226. 

Gibbs  Falls,  N.  H.,  126. 


Gilroy  Hot  Springs,  Cal., 
421. 

Glades  Hotel,  Md.,  317. 

Glasgow,  Mo.,  430. 

Glen  Alpine  Spring,N.C., 
569. 

Glen  Cove,  N.  Y.,  231. 

Glendive,  Dak.,  474. 

Glen  Ellis  Falls,  123. 

Glen  Eyi'ie,  Col.,  435. 

Glen  Haven.  N.  Y.,  175. 

Glen  House,  123. 

Glens  Falls,  N.  Y.,  209. 

Glen,  N.  H.,  116. 

Glenwood  Hot  Springs, 
Col.,  437. 

Golden,  Col.,  438. 

Gold  Range.  Can.,  498. 

Goldsboro,  N.  C,  507. 

Goodrich  Falls,  N.  H.. 
122 

Gorham,  N.  H.,  124. 

Goshen,  Conn.,  164. 

Grafton,  W.Va.,  314. 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Ar- 
kansas, 436. 

G^-and  Canon  of  the  Col- 
orado. 447. 

Grandfather  Mt.,  N.  C, 
569. 

Grand  Forks,  N.  D.,  491. 

Grand  Gulf,  Miss.,  583. 

Grand  Lake,  Col.,  441. 

Grand  Portal,  Mich.,  469. 

Grand  Pre,  Can.,  285. 

Graniteville,  S.  C,  514. 

Gray  Mt.,  Col.,  439. 

Gray's  Peak,  Col.,  439. 

Great  American  Desert, 
397. 

Great  Barrington,  Mass., 
165. 

Great  Bend,  N.  Y.,  190. 

Great  Falls,  Mont.,  493. 

Great  Head,  Me.,  137. 

GreatNeck,  N.  Y.,233. 

Great  Salt  Lake,  U.  T., 
396. 

Greeley,  Col.,  440. 

Greenbrier  White  Sul- 
phur Springs,  Va.,  563. 

Greenbu8h,N.  Y.,73. 

Greencastle,  Ind.,  352. 

Greencastle,  Pa.,  2.56. 

Green  Cove  Springs,  Fla., 
526. 

Greenfield,  Mass.,  152. 

Green  Lake,  Col.,  439. 

Green  Mt.,  Me.,  136. 

Green  Mts.,  Vt.,  143. 

Green  Mtn.  Falls,  Col., 
434. 

Greenport,  N.  Y..  233. 

Greensboro,  N.  C,  508. 


INDEX. 


609 


Greensburg,  Pa.,  239. 
Green  Sulphur  Springs, 

Fla..  528. 
Greenupsburg,  Ky.,  576. 
Greenville,  Ala.,  538. 
Greenville,  Me..  139. 
Greenville,  S.  C,  540. 
Greenville,  Tenn.,  544. 
Greenwich.  Conn.,  77. 
Greenwood  Cemetery.  29. 
Greenwood  Lake,  N.  Y., 

188. 
Grenada.  Miss.,  552. 
Grevlock     Mt..     Mass., 

169. 
Grosse  Point,  Mich.,  295. 
Grot  on,  Conn.,  85. 
Guilford,  Conn.,  84. 
Guinney's,  Va.,  .503. 
Guadalajara,  Mex.,  454. 
Guaymas,  Mex.,  4.52. 
Gunnison  Citv,  437. 
Gwynedd,  Pa",  242. 

Hackensack,  N.  J.,  193, 

297. 
Hackettstown,  N.  J.,  235. 
Hadley,  Mass..  151. 
Hagerstown.  Md.,  256. 
Hague,  N.  Y.,  212. 
Ha!  Ha!  Bay,  Can.,  276. 
Haines^s  Falls,  N.  Y..  76. 
Halifax,  Can,,  285. 
Hallowell,  Me.,  138. 
Hamilton,  Can.,  292. 
Hamilton  Mt.,  Cal.,  421. 
Hamilton,  Ohio,  .834. 
Hammondsport,    N.  Y., 

261. 
Hampton  Beach,  Mass., 

111. 
Hannibal,  Mo.,  580. 
Hanover,  N.  H.,  153. 
Hanover  Junction,    Pa., 

256. 
Harbin's    Springs,    Cal., 

419. 
Harney  Lake,  Fla.,  ,528. 
Harper's  Ferry,  W.  Va., 

312. 
Harrisbm-g,  Pa.,  236,  308. 
Harrison,  Me.,  116. 
Hartford,  Conn.,  80. 
Harvard  University,  106. 
Hastings,  Minn.,  378. 
Havana  Glen,  N.  Y.,  261. 
Haverhill,  Mass.,  115. 
Haver  straw,  193. 
Haverstraw  Bay,  N.  Y., 

69,  290,  297. 
Havre  de  Grace,  Md.,  46. 
Hayes  Mtn.,  N.  H.,  124. 
Healdville,  Vt.,  147. 
Healing  Springs,  Va.,  .565. 


Hearne,  Tex.,  459. 
Helderberg  Mts.,  N.  Y., 

246. 
Helena,  Mon.,  480. 
Hellertown.  Pa.,  242. 
Hempstead,  N.  Y.,  231. 
Henderson  Lake,  N.  Y., 

217. 
Hermann,  Mo.,  429. 
Hermosillo,  Mex.,  452. 
Hiawassee  Falls,  Ga.,  574. 
Hibernia,  Fla.,  526. 
Hickory  Nut  Gap,  N.  C, 

570. 
High  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  21. 
High  Falls,  N.  Y.,  173. 
Highland,  111.,  354. 
Highlands  of  Navesink, 

25. 
Highlands  of  the  Hudson, 

69,  290. 
High  Peak,  N.  Y.,  73. 
Hinsdale,  Mass.,  162. 
Hinsdale,  N.  H.,  152. 
Hokendauqua,  Pa.,  204. 
Holbrook,  Ariz.,  446. 
Holbrook,  Mass.,  1.51. 
Holly  Springs,  Miss.,  552. 
Holyoke,  Mass.,  150. 
Holvoke  Mt.,  Mass.,  1.51. 
Homer,  N.  Y.,  250. 
Honesdale,  Pa.,  243. 
Hooksett,  N.  H.,  141. 
Hoosac  Tunnel,  161,  169, 
Hopatcong  Lake,  N.  J., 

235 
Hopkins  Mt..  Mass.,  170. 
Hornellsville,  N.  Y.,  191, 

304. 
Hot  Springs,  Ark.,  459. 
Hot  Springs,  N.  C,  571. 
Hot  Sprmgs,  Va.,  565. 
Hot     Sulphur     Springs, 

Cal.,  422. 
Hot     Sulphur     Springs, 

Col.,  440. 
Housatonic  Valley,  163. 
Houston,  Tex.,  457. 
Howards,  Cal.,  418. 
Howell's,  N.  Y.,  189. 
Howe's  Cave,  N.  Y.,  245. 
Hudson,  N.  Y.,  71,  291. 
Hudson  River,  67,  289. 
Hudson,  Wis.,  383. 
Humboldt,  Nev.,  397. 
Humboldt  Wells,    Nev., 

397. 
Hunga  Mt.,  Vt.,  144. 
Hunter,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Huntingdon,  Pa.,  237,308. 
Huntington,  N.  Y.,  231. 
Huntington,  W.  Va.,  575. 
Huron  Lake,  465. 
Hyannis,  Mass.,  158. 


Hyde  Park,  Mass.,  88. 
Hvde  Park,  N.  Y.,  71. 
Hydeville,  Vt.,  162. 

lamonia  Lake,  Fla.,  .533. 
Idaho  Springs,  Col.,  438. 
Ilion,  N.  Y.,  173. 
Indianapolis,  Ind.,  350. 
Indian  Harbor,  Conn.,  77. 
Indian  Head,  Can.,  497. 
Indian  Pass,  N.  Y.,  221. 
Indian  Eiver,  Fla.,  530. 
Inverness,  Cal.,  417. 
lona  Island,  N.Y.,  76. 
Iowa  City,  la.,  387. 
Ipswich,  Mass.,  110. 
Ironton,  Ohio,  576. 
Irvineton,  Pa,,  247. 
Irvington,  N.  Y.,  68. 
Island  Pond,  Vt.,  141. 
Isles  of  Shoals,  N.H.,11^. 
Islip,  N.  Y.,  2.33. 
Ithaca  Falls,  N.  Y.,  175. 
Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  175. 

Jackson  Lake,  Fla.,  533. 
Jackson,  Mich.,  296. 
Jackson,  Miss.,  552. 
Jackson,  N.  H.,  122. 
Jackson,  Tenn.,  .551. 
Jacksonville,  Fla.,  .520. 
Jacksonville,  111.,  373. 
Jamaica,  N.  Y.,  231. 
James's  Peak,  Col.,  438. 
Jamestown,  N.  D.,  474. 
Jamestown,  N.  Y.,  304. 
Jay  Peak,  Vt.,  154. 
Jefferson  City,  Mo.,  429. 
Jefferson  Hill,  N.  H.,  125. 
Jeffersonville,   Ind.,  347, 

.576. 
Jerome  Park,  N.  Y.,  170. 
Jersey  City,  N.  J.,  29. 
Jessup's  Lake,  Fla.,  528. 
Jocasse  Valley,  S.  C,  572. 
John  Brown  Tract,  173, 

221. 
Johnsto\TO,  Pa.,  239,  309. 
Joliet,  111.,  372. 
Jonesboro,  111.,  371. 
Juneau  City,  Alaska,  428. 

Kaaterskill  Falls,  N.  Y., 

75. 
Kalamazoo,  Mich.,  293. 
Kankakee,  111.,  370. 
Kansas  City,  Mo.,  430. 
Katahdin  Mt.,  Me.,  189. 
Katama  Bay,  160. 
KearsargeMt.,  N.  H.,  121, 

143. 
Kebo  Mt.,  Me.,  136. 
Keene,  N.  H.,  147. 
Keene  Valley,  N.  Y.,  227. 


610 


INDEX. 


Keeseville,  N.  T.,  226. 
Kenneshaw  Mt.,  Ga.,  545. 
Kennebunk,  Me.,  115. 
Kenosha,  Wis.,  374. 
Kenoza  Lake,  Mass.,  115. 
Kent,  Conn.,  164. 
Keokuk,  la.,  580. 
Keowee  River,  Ga.,  572. 
Keuka  Lake,  N.  Y.,  261. 
Key  West,  Fla.,  535. 
KilburnMt.,N.  H.,  147. 
Killington  Peak,Vt.,  148. 
Kinderhook,  N.  Y.,  162. 
Kineo  Mt.,  Me.,  139, 
Kingston,  Can.,  262. 
Kingston,   N.  Y.,  72,  74, 

297. 
Kingston,  Pa.,  207. 
Kinmunday,  ill.,  371. 
Kirkwood,  Mo.,  429. 
Kirkwood,  N.  Y.,  190. 
Kissimee  City,  Fla.,  534. 
Kissimee  Lake,  Fla.,  534. 
Kit  Carson,  Col.,  431. 
Kittanning,  Pa.,  253. 
Knightstown,  Ind.,  354. 
Knoxville,  Tenn.,  544. 
Kokomo,  Ind.,  368. 

Lachine  Rapids,  264. 
Lackawaxen.  Pa.,  188, 303. 
Laconia,  N.  H.,  118. 
La  Crosse,  Wis.,  377,  577. 
Lafayette,  Ind.,  368. 
Lafayette  Lake,  Fla.,  533. 
Lafayette  Mt.,  N.  H.,  131. 
La  Grange,  Ga.,  539. 
La  Grange,  Ky.,  343. 
Laguna,  N.  M.,  445. 
Lake  City,  Fla.,  527. 
Lake  City,  Minn.,  378. 
Lake  George,  Fla.,  527. 
Lake      Memphremagog, 

Lake Nipissing,  Can., 496. 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  Can., 

496. 
,Lake  Pepin,  Minn.,  578. 
Lambertville,  N.  J.,  249. 
Lancaster,  Pa.,  236,  307. 
Lanesboro,  Mass.,  168. 
Lansingburg.  N.  Y.,  163. 
La  Porte,  Ind.,  302. 
Laramie  City,  Wy.,  394. 
Laredo,  Tex.,  459. 
Larned,  Kan.,  432. 
La  Salle,  III.,  386. 
Las  Vegas,  N.  M.,  443. 
Lathrop,  Cal.,  401. 
Latrobe,  Pa.,  239. 
La  Veta  Pass,  Col.,  437. 
Lawrence,  Kan.,  431. 
Lawrence,  Mass.,  114. 
Lawrenceburg,  Ind.,  348. 


Lawtrey,  Fla.,  531. 
Leadville,  Col.,  437. 
Lebanon,  111.,  349. 
Lebanon  Springs,  N.  Y., 

168,  171. 
Lee,  Mass.,  166. 
Lehighton,  Pa.,  205. 
Lehigh  Water-Gap,  205. 
Lenox,  Mass.,  167. 
Lethbridge,  Can.,  497. 
Lewiston,  N.  Y.,  187. 
Lexington,  Mass.,  146. 
Liberty,  Va.,  544. 
Lime  Rock,  R.  I.,  94. 
Limestone  Springs,  S.  C, 

538. 
Lincoln  Mt.,  Col.,  441. 
Linville  Gorge,  N.C.,  570. 
Litchfield,  Conn.,  90, 164. 
Litchfield,  111.,  353. 
Little  Falls,  N.  Y.,  172, 

291. 
Little  Neck,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Little  Rock,  Ark.,  459. 
Little  Tupper  Lake,  220. 
Live  Oak,  Fla.,  519. 
Livermore  Falls.  N.  H., 

140. 
Liverpool,  Can.,  286. 
Livingston,  Dak.,  475. 
Lock  Haven,  Pa.,  247. 
Lockport,  111.,  372. 
Lockport,N.Y.,  181,292. 
Loda,  111.,  370. 
Logansport,  111.,  368. 
London,  Ohio,  333. 
Long  Beach,  L.  I.,  24,  233. 
Long  Beach,  N.  J.,  46. 
Long  Branch,  N.  J.,  24. 
Long  Island.  229. 
Long  Lake,  Me.,  116. 
Long  Lake,  N.  Y.,  220. 
Long-mont,  Col.,  439. 
Long  Sault  Rapids,  263. 
Long's  Peak,  Col.,  439. 
Longview,  Tex.,  561. 
Lookout  Mt.,  Tenn.,  547. 
Lorette,  Can..  273. 
Los  Angeles,  Cal.,  422. 
Louisburg,  Can.,  287. 
Louisville,  Ky.,  344. 
Loveland,  O.,  334. 
Lowell,  Mass.,  142. 
Lower  Saranac  Lake,  N. 

Y.,  222. 
Luray,  Va.,  545, 
Luzerne    Lake,    N.   Y., 

219. 
Lynchburg,  Va.,  537. 
Lynn,  Mass.,  108. 
Lyons,  N.  Y.,  174. 

McCloud,  Cal.,  427. 
MacGregor,  la.,  379. 


Mackinac  Island,  466. 
Macon,  Ga.,  540. 
Madison,  N,  J.,  234. 
Madison  Mt.,  N.  H.,  125, 
Madison's  Cave,  Vt.,  562. 
Madison,  Ind.,  576. 
Madison,  Wis.,  378. 
Magnolia,  Fla.,  526. 
Magog,  Can.,  154. 
Mahkeenac  Lake,  Mass., 

166. 
Mahopac  Lake,  N.  Y.,  89, 

170. 
Maiden  Rock,  Minn.,  579. 
Mamaroneck,  N.  Y.,  77. 
Mammoth  Cave,  Ky.,  548. 
Manassas,  Va.,  536' 
Manatee,  Fla.,  535. 
Manchester,  Conn.,  90. 
Manchester,  Mass.,  110. 
Manchester,  N.  H.,  143, 
Manchester,  Vt.,  171. 
Mandan,  Dak.,  474. 
Mandarin,  Fla.,  526. 
Manitoba,  Can.,  279,  496. 
Manitou    Springs,    Col., 

434. 
Mansfield,  Ohio,  306,  334. 
Mansfield  Mt.,  Vt.,  144. 
Manuelito,  Ariz.,  446. 
Manunka  Chunk,  193,249. 
Maplewood  House,  128. 
Marblehead,  Mass.,  110. 
Marcy  Mt.,   N.  Y.,  237. 
Margarie  Lake,  Can.,  287. 
Marietta,  Ga.,  545. 
Marietta,  Ohio,  575. 
Mariposa  Grove  of   Big 

Trees,  Cal.,  411. 
Marquette,  Mich.,  469. 
Marshall,  Mich.,  296. 
Marshall,  Tex.,  561, 
Martha's  Vineyard,  159. 
Martinsburg,  W.Va,,  256, 

313 
MarysviUe,  Cal.,  426. 
Massawippi,  Can.,  155. 
Massena  Springs,  N.  Y., 

263. 
Massillon,  Ohio,  310. 
Matanzas,  Fla.,  524. 
Mattituck,  N.  Y.,  232. 
Mattoon,  111.,  353. 
Mauch  Chunk,  Pa.,  205. 
Maysville,  Ky.,  576. 
Mayville,  N.  Y.,  254,  304. 
Meadville,  Pa.,  305. 
Mechanicsburg,  Pa.,  254, 
Medina,  N.  Y.,  181. 
Memphis,  Tenn.,  582. 
Memphremagog,     Lake, 

154. 
Mendota,  111.,  388. 
Menomonee,  Wis.,  383. 


INDEX. 


611 


Meriden,  Conn.,  80. 
Meridian,  Miss.,  547. 
Metis.  Can.,  274. 
Mexia,  Tex.,  456. 
Mexico  Citv,  Mex.,  454. 
Mexico,  Mo.,  429. 
Miccosukie   Lake,    Fla., 

533. 
Michipicoten  Island,  472. 
Middleburv.  Vt..  148. 
Middle  Park,  Col.,  440. 
Middletown,  Conn.,  88. 
Middletown,  N.  Y..  189, 

194. 
Middletown,  Pa.,  236,  308. 
Middletown  Springs,  Vt., 

163. 
Mifflin,  Pa.,  237. 
Milan,  Tenn.,  551. 
Miles  Citv,  Dak.,  475. 
Milford,  Conn.,  77. 
Milford,  N.  Y.,  189. 
Mill-Dam    FaU,    N.   Y., 

175. 
Mill  Plain,  N.  Y.,  90. 
Milledgeville,  Ga.,  540. 
Millen.  Ga.,  516. 
Millerstown,  Pa.,  237. 308. 
Millerton,  Cal.,  417. 
Milton,  Cal.,  412. 
Milton,  Pa.,  24e. 
Milwaukee,  Wis.,  375. 
Mineola,  Tex.,  .561. 
Minneapolis,  Minn.,  382. 
Minnehaha  Falls,  381. 
Minnequa    Springs,  Pa., 

259. 
Minnewaukan,Minn.  ,474. 
Mire  Lake,  Can.,  287. 
Mirror  Lake,  Cal.,  415. 
Missisquoi  Springs,  Vt., 

145. 
Mississippi  Kiver,  577. 
Missoula,  Mon.,  482. 
Mitchell  Mt.,  N.  C,  569, 

572. 
Mobile,  Ala.,  541. 
Mohonk  Lake,  N.  Y.,  71, 

189. 
Mojave,  Cal.,  448. 
Moline,  111.,  383. 
Monadnock  Mt.,  N.  H., 

147. 
Monee,  111.,  370. 
Monmouth,  111.,  388. 
Monroe  Lake,  Fla.,  528. 
Monson,  Mass.,  1.55. 
Montauk   Point,  N.  Y., 

232. 
Monterey,  Cal.,  418. 
Montgomery,  Ala.,  539. 
Monticello,  Fla.,  .533. 
Montmorenci  Falls,  273. 
Montour  Glen,  N.  Y.,261. 


Montpelier,  Vt.,  143. 
Montreal,  Can.,  264. 
Montrose,  111.,  382,  580. 
Monument  Mt.,  166. 
Monument  Park,Col.,435. 
Moorehead,   Minn.,    473, 

495. 
Moosehead    Lake,    Me., 

139. 
Moosilaukee  Mt.,  N.  H., 

119. 
Moravia,  N.  Y.,  175. 
Morgantown,  N.  C,  569. 
MoriahMt.,N.  H.,124. 
Moriches,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Morley,  Col.,  442. 
Morris,  111.,  .355. 
Morristown,  N.  J.,  234. 
Morrisville  Falls,  Vt.,  144. 
Mossbrae  Falls,  Cal.,  427. 
Moss  Glen  Falls,  Vt.,  144. 
Mosquito   Lagoon,  Fla., 

530. 
Moundsville,  W.  Va.,  314, 
Mount  Auburn  Cemetery, 

108. 
Mount  Desert,  Me.,  135. 
Mount    Holly     Springs, 

Pa.,  254. 
Mount  Macgregor,  202. 
Mount  Pleasant,  la.,  389. 
Mount  Prospeci  N.  H., 

119. 
Mount  St.  Vincent,  N.  Y., 

68. 
Mount  Union,  Pa.,  308. 
Mount  Vernon,  Va.,  66. 
Mount   Washington,    N. 

H.,  129. 
Mud  Lake,  N.  Y.,  225. 
Multnomah   Falls,   Ore., 

484. 
Mumfordsville,  Ky.,  548. 
Munesing,  Mich.,  468. 
Murray  Bay,  Can.,  274. 
Muscatine,  la.,  580. 

Nacoochee  Valley,    Ga., 

.573. 
Nahant,  Mass.,  108. 
Nantucket,  Mass.,  160. 
Napa  City,  Cal.,  419. 
Napa  Soda  Sps.,  Cal.,  419. 
Naples,  Me.,  116. 
Napoleon,  Ark.,  582. 
Narragansett  Pier,  R.  I., 

85. 
Narrowsburg,  N.  Y.,  189, 

304. 
Nashua,  N.  H.,  142. 
Nashville,  Tenn.,  549. 
Natchez,  Miss.,  583. 
Natick,  Mass.,  84. 
Natural  Bridge,  Va.,  546. 


Nauvoo  City,  111.,  580. 
Navesink,  Highlands  of, 

N.  J.,  25. 
Needles,  Ariz.,  448. 
Neepigon  Bav,  471. 
Nevada  Falls,  Cal.,  416. 
New    Albany,  Ind.,  347, 

576. 
Newark,  Del.,  46. 
Newark,  N.  J.,  30,  306. 
Newark,  Ohio,  331. 
New  Britain,  Conn.,  90. 
New    Brunswick,    Can., 

283. 
New  Brunswick,  N.J.,  30, 

307. 
Newburg,  N.  Y.,  71,  290. 
Newbury,  Vt.,  1.53. 
Newburyport,  Mass.,  110. 
Newcomb,  N.  Y.,  220. 
New  Haven,  Conn.,  78. 
Newington,  Conn.,  80. 
New  London,  Conn.,  84. 
New  Madrid,  Mo.,  581. 
New  Milford,  Conn.,  164. 
Newnan,  Ga.,  539. 
New  Orleans,  La.,  552. 
New  Paltz  Landing,  N. 

Y.,  71,  189. 
Newport,  Ky.,  343,  576. 
Newport  Mt.,  Me.,  136. 
Newport  News,  Va.,  499. 
Newport,  Pa.,  207. 
Newport,  R.  L,  91. 
Newport,  Vt.,  153. 
New  RocheUe,  N.  Y.,  77. 
New  Smyrna,  Fla.,  530. 
Newton,  Mass.,  84. 
New  York  City,  1. 
Niagara  Falls,  181. 
Niagara    on    the    Lake, 

Can.,  187. 
Niles,  Mich.,  296. 
Nineveh,  N.  Y.,  249. 
Noblesville,  Ind.,  369. 
Nonotuck  Mt . ,  M  ass . ,  151 . 
Norfolk,  Va.,  499. 
Normal,  111.,  372. 
Norristown,  Pa.,  251. 
North  Adams,  Mass.,  169. 
Northampton,  Mass.,  150. 
North   Bend,  Ohio,  348, 

576. 
North  Bridgton,  Me.,  116. 
North    Conway,  N.    H., 

118,  121. 
North  Creek,  N.  Y.,  219. 
North  Elba,  N.  Y.,  224. 
Northfleld,  Mass.,  156. 
Northfield,  Minn.,  380. 
Northfleld,  Vt..  143. 
North  Park,  Col.,  440. 
North  Platte,  Neb.,  393. 
Northport.  N.  Y.,  231. 


612 


INDEX. 


North  Stratford,  N.  H.. 

141. 
Northumberland, Pa., 246. 
Northville,  N.  Y.,  172. 
Norwalk,  Conn.,  77. 
Norwich,  Conn..  9.5. 
Norwich,  N.  Y.,  194. 
Norwich,  Vt.,  1.53. 
Notch,  N.  H.,  121. 
Nova  Scotia,  255. 
Nyack,  N.    Y.,   69,  2G0, 

297. 

Oak  Bluffs,  Mass.,  160. 
Oakland,  Cal.,  400. 
Oakland,  W.  Va.,  313. 
0-at-ka   Valley,    N.   Y., 

192. 
Oberlin,  Ohio,  301. 
Ocala,  Fla.,  532. 
Ocean  Grove,  N.  J.,  25. 
Ocklawaha  Kiver,  529. 
Odin,  111.,  349. 
Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.,  145. 
Ogden,  U.  T.,  395. 
Ogunquit  Beach,  N.  H., 

112. 
Ohio  River,  574. 
Oil  City,  Pa.,  253. 
Old  Orchard  Beach,  Me., 

115. 
Old  Point  Comfort,  497. 
Old  Sayhrook,  Conn.,  84. 
Old  Sweet  Springs,  Va., 

564. 
Olean,  Pa.,  249. 
Oleopolis,  Pa.,  253. 
Olney,  111.,  349. 
Olympia,  Wash.,  487. 
Omaha,  Neb.,  390. 
Onarga,  111.,  370. 
Oneida  Castle,  194. 
Oneida  Lake,  N.  Y.,  174. 
Onondaga  Lake,  N.  Y., 

174. 
OnotaLake,  Mass.,  168. 
Ontario  Lake,  462. 
Ontonagon,  Mich.,  470. 
Opelika,  Ala.,  541. 
Orange  Grove,  Fla.,  528. 
Orange  Mills.  Fla.,  527. 
Orange,  N.  J.,  234. 
Orange  Park,  Fla.,  526. 
Orange,  Tex..  560. 
Oregon  City,  427. 
Orford,  Mt.,  Can.,  154. 
Orient  Point,  N.  Y..232. 
Osage  City,  Kan.,  432. 
Osakis,  Minn.,  490. 
Oswego,  N.  Y.,  250. 
Otisco  Lake.  N.  Y.,  175. 
Otisville,  N.  Y.,  189.303. 
Otsego  Lake,  N.  Y.,  244. 
Ottawa,  Can.,  277. 


Ottawa,  111.,  385. 
Ottawa  River,  278. 
Otter  Creek  Cliffs,  Me.. 

137. 
Otter  Peaks,  Va.,  544. 
Ottumwa,  la.,  389. 
Ovid,  N.  Y.,  176. 
Owasco  Lake,  N.  Y.,  175. 
Owasco  Village,    N.  Y., 

175. 
Owego,  N.  Y.,  190,  304. 
Owl's  Head  Lake,  Can., 

154. 
Owl's  Head  Lake,  N.  Y., 

220. 
Oyster  Bay,  N.  Y.,  231. 

Pablo  Beach,  Fla.,  521. 
Pacific  Congress  Springs, 

421. 
Packerton,  Pa.,  205. 
Paducah,  Ky.,  577. 
Painesville,  Ohio,  298. 
Palatine  Bridge,  N.  Y.. 

172. 
Palatka,  Fla.,  527. 
Palenville,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Palisades,  N.  J.,  68. 
Palmer,  Mass.,  155. 
Palmyra,  N.  Y.,  174. 
Pana,  111.,  353. 
Paoli,  Pa.,  236,  307. 
Paradox  Lake,  219. 
Parkersburg,  316,  575. 
Parkesburg,  Pa.,  236. 
Parma,  Mich.,  296. 
Parsons,  Kan.,  455. 
Pasadena,  Cal.,  423. 
Pascagoula,  La..  543. 
Paso-RoblesSprings,  Cal . , 

410,  421. 
Passaic  Falls,  N.  J..  188. 
Patchogue,  N.  Y.,  S33. 
Paterson,  N.  J.,  188,  303. 
Paul  Smith's,  223. 
Pawtucket,  R.  I..  88. 
Pawtuxet,  R.  I.,  88. 
Paxton,  111.,  370. 
Peabody,  Mass.,  109. 
Peekskill.  N.  Y.,  69. 
Pend     d'Oreille      Lake, 

Mon.,  483. 
Pendleton,  Ind.,  350. 
Penn  Haven,  Pa.,  206. 
PennYan,  N.  Y.,  261. 
Pensacola,  Fla.,  534. 
Perkins   Lake,     N.    Y., 

216. 
Perry's  Peak,  Mass.,  167. 
Perry  Warm  Springs,  255. 
Perth  Amboy,  N.  J.,  31. 
Pescadero,  Cal.,  418. 
Petersburg,  Va.,  506. 
Petrified  Forest,  Cal.,  419. 


Petroleum,  W.  Va.,  315. 
Pharaoh  Lake,  N.  Y.,  219. 
Pharaoh  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  219. 
Philadelphia,  Pa.,  32, 307. 
Phillips,  Me.,  140. 
Phillipsburg,  N.  J..  203. 
Phcenixville,  Pa.,  251. 
Picolata,  Fla.,  527. 
Pic  River,  Can.,  471. 
Pictou,  Can.,  287. 
Pictured  Rocks,  The.  468. 
Piedmont,  W.  Va..  313. 
Pierce  Citv,Mo.,  461. 
Piercefield  Falls.  N.  Y., 

225 
Piermont,  N.  Y.,  88,  290. 
Pike's  Peak,  Col.,  434. 
Pinnacle  Mt.,  N.  H.,  143. 
Piqua.  Ohio,  353. 
Piseco  Lake,  N.  Y.,  229. 
Pisgah  Mt.,   N.   C,  569, 

572. 
Pisgah  Mt.,  Pa.,  206. 
Pittsburg,  Pa.,  239,  309. 
Pittsfield,  Mass.,  167. 
Pittsford,  Vt.,  148. 
Pittston,  Pa.,  2C8. 
PlacidLake,  N.  Y..223. 
Plainville,  Conn.,  90. 
Plainfield,  N.  J.,  31. 
Plattekill  Cove,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Plattsburg,  N.  Y.,  215. 
Pleasant    Lake,    N.    Y., 

229. 
Pleasant  Mt,  Me.,  116. 
Pleasure  Bay,  N.  J.,  25. 
Plymouth,  Mass.,  156. 
Plymouth,  N.  H.,  119. 
Point  of  Rocks,  Md.,  311. 
Point  Reyes,  Cal.,  417. 
Point  Shirley,  Mass  ,  106. 
Pomeroy,  Ohio,  575. 
Pomona,  Cal.,  424. 
Pontchartrain,  Lake,  La.. 

558. 
Pontoosuck  Lake,  Mass., 

168. 
Portage  Citv,  Wis.,  377. 
Portage,  N.^Y..  192,  304. 
Portage  la  Prairie,  Can.. 

496. 
Port  Arthur,  Can.,  496. 
Port  Clinton,  Pa.,  252. 
Porter  Springs,  Ga.,  538. 
Port  Hawkesbury,  Can., 

287. 
Port  Hm-on,  Mich.,  465. 
Port  Jefferson,  N.  Y.,  231. 
Port  Jervis,  N.  Y.,  189, 

303. 
Port  Kent,  N.  Y.,  215. 
Portland,  Me.,  113. 
Portland,  Ore., 484. 
Port  Sarnia,  Can.,  465. 


INDEX. 


613 


Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  111. 
Port.smouth.  Ohio.  576. 
Portsmouth.  Ya..  5(X). 
Port  Tampa.  Fla.,  534. 
Port  Townsend,  Wash., 

4S8. 
Pottstown.  Pa..  251. 
Pottsville.  Pa..  252. 
Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y..  71, 

290. 
Poultney,  Yt..  1(13. 
Prairie  du  Chien,  \Yis., 

379. 
Pratts^^lle,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Prescott.  Can..  263. 
Prince  Edwardlsland.287. 
Princeton.  N.  J..  30,  307. 
Profile  House.  130. 
Profile  Mt.,  131. 
Prospect    Falls,    N.    Y., 

173. 
Prospect  Mt.,  Conn.,  164. 
Prospect  Mt.,N.H.,  119. 
Providence,  R.  I.,  85. 
Provincetown,  Mass.,  159. 
Provo.  Utah,  45C. 
Pueblo.  Col.,  433. 
Puget  Sound.  485. 
Pullman.  111.,  327. 
Puncheon-Run  Falls.  Ya., 

567. 
Pimta  Gordo,  Fla.,  535. 
Punta  Rassa,  Fla..  535. 
Put-in-Bay  Islands,  464. 
Putnam,  Conn.,  89. 
Pj-ramid  Park,  474. 

Quantico.  Ya.,  .503. 
Qu'Appelle.  Can.,  497. 
Quebec,  Can.,  268. 
Queenston,  Can..  187. 
QueerLake,  N.  Y.,220. 
Queretaro,  Mex.,  454. 
Quincy,  Fla.,  533. 
Quincy,  111.,  580. 
Quincy,  Mass.,  157. 
Quinsigamond         Lake, 

Mass.,  84. 
Quogue,  N.  Y.,  232. 

Racine,  Wis.,  374. 
Rainbow    Lake,    N.    Y., 

224. 
Raleigh,  N.  C.,508. 
Ralston,  Pa.,  259. 
Ramapo,  N.  Y.,  188. 
Ramapo  Valley,N.Y..3D3. 
Randall's  Island,  N.  Y., 

22. 
Randolph  Hill.  N.H..  124. 
Rangeley  City,  Me.,  140. 
Rangeley  Lakes,  Me..  140. 
Raquette    Falls,    N.  Y., 

225. 


Raquette  Lake,  N.Y.,220. 
Rat  Portage.  Can.,  496. 
Ravenna,  Ohio.  305. 
Rawley  Springs.  Ya.,563. 
Reading,  Pa.,  251. 
Redaudo  Beach,  Cal.,  423. 
RedBank.  N.  J..  2.5. 
Redding.  Cal..  427. 
Red  Hitl,  N.  H.,  134. 
Red  Wing,Minn.,  378,-578. 
Reed's  Landing,  Minn., 

378,  579. 
Regina,  Can.,  497. 
Relay,  Md.,  311. 
Remsen,  N.  Y.,  218. 
Reno.  Nev.,  398. 
Renovo,  Pa.,  247. 
Resaca.  Ga.,  545. 
Revere  Beach,  Mass.,  108. 
Rhinecliff.  N.  Y.,  71. 
Richfield  Springs,  N.  Y., 

197. 
Richmond,  Can.,  142. 
Richmond,  Ind.,  354. 
Richmond,  Va.,  504. 
Rideau  Falls,  Can.,  278. 
Ridley's  Station,  Vt.,  144. 
Rimouski,  Can.,  274. 
Rincon,  N.  M.,452. 
Riverhead,  N.  Y.,  232. 
Riverside,  Cal.,  424. 
Riviere  du    Loup,   Can., 

274. 
Roan  Mts.,  N.  C,  569. 
Roanoke,  Va.,  507. 
Roaring  Brook  Falls,  N. 

Y.,  168. 
Rochester,  N.  H.,  119. 
Rochester,  N.Y.,  176, 291. 
Rochester,  Pa.,  310. 
Rockaway  Beach,  N.  Y.. 

24. 
Rockbridge  Alum  Sp'gs, 

W.  Va.,  566. 
Rock  Creek,  Wy.,  394. 
Rockford,  111.,  390. 
Rock  Island,  111..  3S6. 
Rockland,  Me.,  135. 
Rocljport,  Tex.,  460. 
Rocky  Mts.,  393,  431. 
Rocky  Point,  R.  I.,  88. 
Roger's  Rock,  N.  Y.,  223. 
Rome,  Ga.,  544. 
Rome,  N.  Y..  174.  291. 
Rondout,  N.  Y.,  71. 
Ronkonkoma    Lake,    N. 

Y.,  231. 
Root's  Inn,  228. 
Roseburg,  Ore.,  427. 
Roslyn,  N.  Y.,  231. 
Rossignol     Lake,    Can., 

286. 
Round  Lake,  N.  Y.,  193. 


Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.,  145. 
Roxburv.  Mass..  88. 
Roxbury,  Vt.,  143. 
Rutland,  Vt.,  147. 
Rye.  N.  Y.,  77. 
Rye  Beach,  N.  H.,  111. 

Saco,  Me.,  112,  115. 
Sacramento,  Cal.,  399. 
Saddleback  Mt.,  Me.,  140. 
Sage's  Ravine,  164. 
Sageville,  N.  Y.,  229. 
Sag  Harbor,  N.  Y.,  232. 
Saginaw  Bay,  465. 
Saguenay  River.  275. 
St.  Albans.  Vt.,  141. 
Ste.  Anne  deBeaupre,  275. 
Ste.    Anne    Falls,    Can., 

273. 
St.      Anthony's      Falls, 

Minn.,  382. 
St.  Augustine,  Fla.,  522. 
St.  Boniface,  Can.,  280. 
St.  Cathaiine's,  Can.,  292. 
St.  Catherine  Lake,  Vt., 

163. 
St.  Charles,  Mo.,  429. 
St.  Clair  Lake,  465. 
St.  Cloud,  Minn.,  489. 
St.   Francis  Lake,  Can., 

264. 
St.  Hyacinthe,  Can.,  142.  ■ 
St.  John,  Can.,  283. 
St.  Johns.  Can.,  145. 
St.  Johnsbury,  Vt.,  153. 
St.  John's  River,Fla.,525. 
St.  Johnsville,  N.Y.,172. 
St.  Lawrence  River,  2G2. 
St.  Leon  Springs,  Can., 

263. 
St.  Louis  Lake,  Can.,  264. 
St.  Louis,  Mo.,  355. 
St.  Mary's,  Pa.,  247. 
St.   Mary's   River,  Wis., 

467. 
St.  Paul,  Minn.,  380. 
St.  Paul's  Bay,  Can.,  274. 
St.  Peter  Lake,  Can.,  268. 
St.  Regis.  Can..  264. 
St.  Regis  Lake,  N.Y.,  223. 
Salamanca,    N.   Y.,   192. 

304. 
Salem,  Mass.,  109. 
Salem,  N.  Y.,  163. 
Salem,  Ohio,  310. 
Salem,  Ore.,  427. 
Salida  City,  436. 
Salisbury,  Conn.,  164. 
Salisbury,  N.  C,  508. 
Salisbury,  Vt.,  148. 
Salisbury  Beach,  Mass., 

111. 
Salmon  Lake,  N.  Y.,  221. 
Salt  Lake  City,  U.  T.,  395. 


614 


Index. 


Salt  Lake,  Fla.,  528. 
San  Antonio,  Tex.,  458. 
San  Bernardino,  Cal.,  423. 
San  Diego,  Cal.,  424. 
Sandoval,  111.,  528. 
Sand  Spring,  Mass.,  170. 
Sandusky,  Ohio,  315,  463. 
Sandwich,  Mass.,  158. 
Sanford,  Fla.,  528. 
Sanford  Lake,  N.  Y.,  221. 
San  Francisco,  Cal.,  401. 
San  Jose,  Cal.,  420. 
San  Luis  Lake,  Col.,  441. 
San  Luis  Obispo,  Cal., 411, 

421. 
San  Luis  Park,  Col.,  441. 
San  Luis  Potosi,  Mex.,454 
San  Mateo,  Fla.,  527. 
San  Rafael,  Cal.,  417. 
Santa  Barbara,  Cal.,  422. 
Santa  Clara,  Cal.,  421. 
Santa  Cruz,  Cal.,  418. 
Santa  Fe  Lake,  Fla.,  532. 
Santa  Fe,  New  Mex.,  443. 
Santa    Margarita,    Cal., 

410. 
Saranac  Lakes,  N.Y.,  222. 
Saratoga  Lake,  N.Y.,  199. 
Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y., 

198 
Saucelito,  Cal.,  416. 
Savannah,  Ga.,  516. 
Sawkill  Falls,  N.  Y.,  189. 
Saybrook,  Conn.,  84. 
Scarborough,  Me.,  115. 
Schaghticoke,  N.  Y.,  163. 
Schenectady,  N.  Y.,  172, 

291 
Schoharie,  N.  Y..  246. 
Schoodic  Lake.  Can.,  284. 
Schooley's  Mt.;  N.  J.,  235. 
Schroon  Lake,  N.Y.,  219. 
Scranton,  Pa.,  242. 
Sea  Cliff,  N.  Y.,  231. 
Seal  Islands,  Alaska,  428. 
Seattle,  Wash.,  487. 
Sebago  Lake,  Me.,  116. 
'  Sebec  Lake,  Me.,  138. 
Sedalia,  Mo.,  429. 
Selkirk  Range,  Can.,  498. 
Sellersville,  Pa.,  242. 
Selma,  Ala.,  544. 
Seneca  Falls,  N.  Y.,  176. 
Seneca  Lake,  N.  Y.,  176. 
Seward  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  221. 
Seymour,  Ind.,348. 
Shaker    Village,    Mass., 

162,  168. 
Shallow  Lake,  N.Y.,  220. 
Sharon,  Conn.,  171. 
Sharon,  Vt.,  164. 
Sharon  Springs,    N.  Y., 

172  244. 
Shasta,  Mt,  Cal.,  427. 


Shawanegan  Falls,  Can., 

268. 
ShawangunkMts.,71,303. 
Sheffield,  Mass.,  165. 
Shelburne   Falls,  Mass., 

161. 
Shelby,  Ohio,  329. 
Shelby  Springs,  Ala.,  .544. 
Sheldon  Springs,Vt.,  145. 
Shelter  Island,  N.Y.,  232. 
Sherbrooke,Can.,  142,155. 
Sherman's  Falls,   N.  Y., 

173. 
Sherman,  Tex.,  456. 
Sherman,  Wy.,  394. 
Shippan Point,  Conn.,  77. 
Shippensburg,  Pa.,  255. 
Shoals,   Isles  of,  N.  H., 

111. 
Shohola,  Pa.,  303. 
Shreveport,  La.,  561. 
Shrewsbury  River,  N.  J., 

25. 
Siasconset,  Mass.,  161. 
Sidney,  Neb.,  393. 
Sidney,  Ohio,  350. 
Sidney,  N.Y.,  243. 
Sierra  Blanca,  437. 
Silver  Cascade,  N.H.,  127. 
Silver  Island,  Mich.,  471. 
Silver  Lake,  N.  Y.,  192. 
Silver  Spring,  Fla.,  529. 
Silverton,  Col.,  437. 
Sing  Sing,  N.  Y.,  69,  278. 
Sioux  City,  la.,  372. 
Sir  John's  Run,  W.  Va., 

313. 
Sitka,  Alaska,  428. 
Skaneateles  Lake,  N.  Y., 

174. 
SkyTopMt.,  N.  Y.,71. 
Slatington,  Pa.,  204. 
SlickingFalls,  S.  C.,572. 
Sloatsburg,  N.Y.,  188,291. 
Smoky  Mts.,  N.  C,  .569. 
Smuggler's    Notch,    Yt., 

144. 
Snake  Mt.,  Vt.,  148. 
Socorro,  New  Mex.,  450. 
Soda  Springs,  Cal.,  427. 
Somes's  Sound,  Me.,  137. 
Somesville,  Me.,  1.37. 
Sorel,  Can.,  268. 
South  Amboy,  N.  J.,  31. 
Southampton,  N.  Y.,  2-32. 
South  Bend,  Ind.,  302. 
S.  Braintree,  Mass.,  156. 
Southbridge,  Mass.,  89. 
South  Durham,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Southern    Pines,   N.   C, 

502. 
S.  Egremont,  Mass.,  165. 
S.  Framingham,Mass.,84. 
South  Mt.,  Md.,  312. 


Southoid,  N.  Y.,  232. 
South  Paris,  Me.,  116. 
South  Park,  Col.,  441. 
South  Vernon,  Vt.,  152. 
Southwest  Harbor,  Me., 

137. 
Sparta,  Ga.,  540. 
Sparta,  Wis.,  377. 
Spartanburg,  S.  C,  538. 
Speonk,  L.  I.,  232. 
Spokane,  Wash.,  484. 
Spottsylvania  Ct.  H.,Va., 

503. 
Spragueville,  Pa.,  250. 
Springfield,  111.,  349,  373. 
Springfield,  Mass.,  82. 
Springfield,  Mo.,  461. 
Springfield,  O.,  329. 
Squam  Lake,  N.  H.,  134. 
Squantum,  R.  I.,  88. 
Stafford,  Conn.,  155. 
Stamford,  Conn.,  77. 
Stanislaus  Grove  of  Big 

Trees,  401. 
Staten  Island,  N.  Y.,  22. 
Staunton,  Va.,  562. 
Sterling,  111.,  384. 
Sterling,  Kan.,  432. 
SteubenviUe,  O.,  330,  575. 
Stockbridge,  Mass..  165. 
Stockton,  Cal.,  400. 
Stonington,  Conn.,  85. 
Stony  Clove,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Stony  Point,  N.  Y.,  69. 
Storm  King  Mt.,  N.Y.,  70. 
Stowe,  Vt.,  144. 
Stratford,  Conn.,  77. 
Stroudsburg,  Pa.,  250. 
Suffem,  N.  J.,  188,  513. 
Suffolk,  Va.,  501. 
Sugar-Loaf   Mt.,    Mass., 

151. 
Sugar-Loaf  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  70. 
Sullivan' sisland,  S .  C .,  513 
Summerside,  Can.,  288. 
Summerville,  Ga.,  515. 
Summerville,  S.  C,  509. 
Summit,  Cal.,  398. 
Summit,  N.  J.,  234, 
Summit,  Vt.,  147. 
Summit  Hill.  Pa.,  206. 
Sunbury,  Pa.,  246. 
Superior,  Lake,  468. 
Surprise  Mt.,  N.  H.,  124. 
Suspension  Bridge,  N.  Y., 

185. 
Susquehanna,    Pa.,    190, 

304. 
Sutherland  Falls,  Vt.,148. 
Suwanee    Springs,  Fla., 

519. 
Swampscott,  Mass.,  109. 
Swannanoa  Gap,  N.  C, 


INDEX. 


6J5 


Sweeney's  Carry,  224. 
Sydney'  Can..  2S7. 
Sylvan  Glade  Falls.  127. 
Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  174,  291. 

Table  Mt..  S.  C,  572. 
Tacoma.  Wash..  486. 
Tadonsac.  Can..  275. 
Taghkanic  Falls.  N.  Y., 

175. 
Taha^vus.  N.  Y.,  220. 
Tahoe  Lake.  Cal.,  398. 
Talladega.  Ala.,  544. 
Tallahassee,  Fla..  533. 
Tallulah  Falls,  Ga.,  573. 
Tamalpais  Mt,  Cal.,  417. 
Tamaqua.  Pa.,  252. 
Tammany    Mt.,    N.    Y., 

196. 
Tampa.  Fla..  .^Sl. 
Tannersville,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Tappan.  N.  Y.,  88.  297. 
Tappan  Zee.  290. 
Tarrytowu,     N.   Y..    69, 

290". 
Taunton,  Mass.,  9 i. 
Taurus  Mt.,  N.  Y.,  70. 
Temiscouata  Lake,  Can., 

274. 
Templeton,  Cal.,  410. 
Terrace  Mt.  Hot  Springs, 

Mon.,  478. 
Terre  Haute,  Ind.,  352. 
Texarkana,  Tex.,  459. 
Theresa    Lake,    N.    Y., 

263. 
Thomasville,  Ga.,  .519. 
Thompson's  Falls,  N.  H., 

123. 
Thousand  Islands,  262. 
Three  Rivers,  Can.,  142, 

268. 
Thunder  Bay,  465. 
Tidioute,  Pa.,  253. 
Tignish,  Can.,  288. 
Tipton,  Ind.,  369. 
Titusville,  Fla.,  530. 
TitusvOle,  Pa.,  2M. 
Toby  Mt.,  Mass.,  152. 
Tocaloma,  Cal.,  417. 
Toccoa  Falls,  Ga.,  .573. 
Toccoa,  Ga.,  .538. 
Toledo,  Ohio,  301. 
Tolono,  111.,  370. 
Toltec  Gorge,  Col.,  437. 
Tom  Mt.,  Mass.,  150. 
Topeka,  Kan.,  431. 
Toronto,  Can.,  281. 
Towanda,  Pa.,  208. 
Tremont,  Mass.,  158. 
Trempealeau         Island, 

Minn.,  579. 
Trenton,  N.  J.,  30,  307. 
Trenton  Falls,  N.  Y.,  173. 


Trinidad.  Col.,  442. 
Trois  Pistoles,  Can.,  274. 
Troy.  N.  H.,  147. 
Troy.  N.  Y..  73. 
Truckee,  Cal.,  398. 
Truro,  Mass.,  158. 
Tuckerman's  Ravine,  123. 
Tuckerton,  N.  J..  46. 
Tucson.  Ariz.,  4.52. 
Tunkhannock,  Pa.,  208. 
Tula,  Mex.,  454. 
Tvipper     Lake,     N.    Y., 

224. 
Turner's,     N.     Y.,     188. 

303. 
Tuscaloosa,  Ala.,  547. 
Tuscarora  Mt.,  Pa.,  308. 
Tusket,  Can..  286. 
Tuxedo,  N.  Y.,  188. 
Twin  Lake,  Col.,  441. 
Twin  Mt.  House,  N.  H., 

128. 
Two  Sisters  Falls,  Mon., 

483. 
Tyrone,  Pa.,  308. 

ITnalashka,  Alaska,  428. 
Union,  Ohio,  350. 
Upper  Saranac  Lake,  N. 

Y.,  2^2. 
Upton,  Me.,  141. 
Urbana,  Ohio,  334. 
UtePass,  Col..  434. 
Utica,  N.Y.,173,291. 

Valley  Forge,  Pa.,  251. 
Vallonia  Springs,  N.  Y., 

243. 
Vancouver,  Can.,  498. 
Vandalia,  111.,  354. 
Varennes,  Can.,  268. 
Venango,  Pa.,  305. 
Vergennes,  Vt.,  148. 
Vernal  Falls,  Cal.,  416. 
Verplanck's  Point,  N.Y., 

69. 
Vicksburg,  Miss.,  582. 
Victoria,  B.  C,  498. 
Vincennes,  Ind.,  348. 
Vine! and,  N.  J.,  44. 
Vineyard  Haven,  Mass., 

160. 
Vinita,  Ind.  Ter.,  455. 
Virginia  City,  Mon.,  481. 
Virginia  City,  Nev.,  398. 
Virginia  Mineral  Springs, 

562-567. 
Volcano,  W.  Va.,  315. 
Volusia,  Fla.,  528. 

Wabasha,  Minn.,  377. 
Wachusett  Mt.,  Mass.,  84, 

161. 
Waco,  Tex.,  456. 


Wadsworth,  Mass.,  69. 
Wadsworth,  Nev.,  .898. 
Wahconah  Falls,  Mass., 

168. 
Wakulla    Springs,   Fla., 

533. 
Waldo,  Fla.,  531. 
Walker's  Falls,  N.H.,132. 
Wallingford,    Conn.,  80, 

88. 
Wallula,  Ore.,  484. 
Walpole,  Mass.,  89. 
Walpole,  N.  H.,  147. 
Waltham,  Mass.,  146. 
Ward's  Island,  N.  Y.,  22. 
Wareham,  Mass.,  158. 
Warm  Springs,  Va.,  565. 
Warren.  N.  H.,  119. 
Warren,  Pa.,  247. 
Warrenton,  Ga.,  .540. 
Warrenton,  Va.,  536. 
Washington,    D.   C,  54. 

311. 
Washington,  N.  J.,  235. 
Washington  Mt.,  Conn.. 

165. 
Washington  Mt.,  N.  H.. 

129. 
Watch  Hill  Point,  R.  I., 

85. 
Waterbury,  Conn.,  90. 
Waterbury,  Vt.,  144. 
Waterford,  N.  Y.,  198. 
Waterville,  Me.,  138. 
Watkius  Glen,  176,  260. 
Waukegan,  111.,  374. 
Waukesha,  Wis.,  378. 
Waverly,  N.Y..  .2C9. 
Weber  Canon,  U.  T.,  398. 
Weirs,  N.  H.,  119,  lc4. 
Weissport,  Pa.,  205. 
Welaka,  Fla.,  527. 
Weld,  Me.,  140. 
Weldon,  N.  C.,507. 
Wellborn,  Fla.,  519. 
Wellesley,  Mass.,  84. 
Wellfleet,  Mass.,  158. 
Wells  Beach,  Me.,  112. 
Wells  River,  Vt.,  119. 
Wellsville,  Ohio,  .575. 
West  Barnstable,  Mass.. 

1.58. 
West  Baton  Rouge,  561. 
West  Creek,  N.  J.,  46. 
Westfield,  Mass.,  162. 
W.  Lebanon,  N.  H.,  143. 
West  Point,  Ga.,  .509. 
West  Point,    N.   Y.,  70, 

296,  297. 
West  Point.  Va.,  500. 
Westport,  N.  Y.,215. 
Wethersfield,  Conn.,  82. 
Weyer's  Cave,  Va.,  563. 
Whatcom,  Wash.,  486. 


616 


INDEX. 


Wheeling,  W.Va.,  314. 
White  Bear  Lake,  Minn., 

381. 
Whiteface   Mt.,    N.    Y., 

223. 
Whitehall,  N.  Y.,  203. 
Whitehaven,  Pa.,  205. 
White  Mts.,  N.  H.,  119. 
White  Plains,  N.  Y.,  170. 
White    Eiver    Junction, 

Vt.,  143. 
Whiteside    Mt.,    N.  C, 

570. 
Whitestone,  N.  Y.,  233. 
White  Sulphur  Springs, 

Cal.,  563. 
White  Sulphur  Springs, 

W.  Va.,  563. 
White  Water  Falls,  S.  C, 

572 
Whitewater,  Wis.,  378". 
Wilcox,  Pa.,  247. 
Wilkesharre,  Pa.,  207. 
Willard  Mt.,  N.  H.,  126. 
Williams  Canon,Col.,  434. 
Williamsport,  Pa.,  246. 
Williamstown,  Mass., 169. 
Willimantic,  Conn.,  89. 
Williston,  Vt.,  144. 
Willoughbv    Lake,    Vt., 

153. 


Wilmington,  Del.,  4^k 
Wilmington,  N.  C,  507. 
Wilmington  Pass.,  223. 
Wilson's  Springs,  N.  C. 

570. 
Wilton,  Me.,  140. 
Winchendon,  Mass.,  147. 
Windham,  N.  Y.,  76. 
Windsor,  Can..  292. 
Windsor,  Vt.,  152. 
Wingate,  Ariz.,  446. 
Wing  Road,  N.  H.,  119. 
Winnemucca,  Nev.,  397. 
Winnepesaukee  Lake,  N. 

H.,  133. 
Winnipeg,  Can.,  280,  4r6. 
Winona,'  Minn.,  377,  579 
Wiscasset,  Me.,  135. 
Wolfboro,    N.    H.,    118, 

133. 
Woodsburg,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Wood's  Holl,  Mass.,  159. 
Woodside,  N.  Y.,  233. 
Woodstock,  Conn.,  89. 
Woodville,  N.  Y.,  179. 
Wooster,  Ohio,  310. 
Worcester,  Mass..  83. 
Wyandotte,  Mich.,  464. 
Wyoming  Valley,  207. 

Xenia,  Ohio,  833. 


Yale  University,  78. 
Yarmouth,  Can.,  2o(j. 
Yarmouth,  Mass.,  1.58. 
Yellowstone  Falls,  Mon., 

477. 
Yellowstone  Geysers,  479. 
Yellowstone  Grand  Can- 
on, Mon.,  477. 
Yellowstone  Lake,  Mon.. 

476. 
Yellowstone  Park,  476. 
Yemassee,  S.  C.,514. 
Yonah  Mt.,  Ga.,  573. 
Yonkers.     N.     Y.,      68. 

290. 
York,  Pa.,  259. 
York  Beach,  Me.,  112. 
Yorktown,  Va.,  500. 
Yosemite     Falls,      Cal., 

415. 
Yosemite     Valley,    Cal., 

411. 
Ypsilanti,  Mich.,  295. 
Yukon     Eiver,    Alaska 

428. 
Yuma,  Ariz.,  452. 

Zacatecas,  Mex.,453. 
Zanesville,  Ohio,  315. 
Zealand  Junction,  138. 
Zuni  Pueblo,  448. 


I 


olumbus 


Kodaks. 


H^-^^- 


What's   Worth  seeing  is  worth  remembering.     There  will 

i"        be  so  much  worth  both  seeing  and  remembering  at  the  World's 

Fair  that  you'll  forget  the  best  part  of  it.      But  you  can 

i         faithfully  preserve  each  scene  if  you'll  just  '^ press  the  button^ 

The  Kodak  is  the  World's  Fair  camera.  As  neither  glass 
plates  nor  films  will  be  sold  on  the  Exposition  grounds,  the 
photographer  must  carry  his  ammunition  with  him.  This  the 
Kodaker  can  easily  do.  His  roll  of  film  capable  of  taking  loo 
pictures  weighs  but  a  few  ounces.  His  outfit  is  self-contained 
■no  bulky  glass  plates  and  hoMers  with  a  liability  of  breakage. 
Kodaks  are  compact,  strong,  simple.    Take  one  with  you ! 


Transparent  Film. 

Our  New  Films  are  giving  perfect  satisfaction.  They  are  better 
than  ever  before.  They  are  highly  sensitive,  and  repeated 
tests  show  that  they  retain  this  sensitiveness  as  well  as  glass 
plates.  No  other  film  is  so  uniformly  free  from  imperfec- 
tions.    Our  film  doesn't  frill. 

EASTflAN   KODAK  COnPANV, 

Send  postal  for  r>      u      *         N    V 

"COLUriBUS  KODAKS."  ROCMeSter,    IN.  X. 

23 


CARDS  OF  LEADING  HOTELS. 


By  referring  to  the  advertising  pages  of  these  Guides,  the  traveler  will  find 
advertisements  giving  full  information  of  many  of  the  leading  Hotels,  as  also 
Bankers  and  others. 


ALBANY,  M.Y. 

HOTEL  KENMOBE. 
Leading  hotel  of  Albany,  N.  Y.  Just 
added,  at  an  outlay  of  over  $100,000,  one 
htmdred  elegant  rooms,  grand  dining  hall 
(handsomest  in  the  State),  lobbies,  reading- 
rooms,  etc.  This  is  the  only  hotel  in  Ad- 
bany  serving  late  dinner. 

H.  J.  RookwELL,  Proprietor. 
F.  W.  Rockwell,  Manager. 


BOSTON,  MASS. 

THE  BRUNSWICK, 
Boylston  and  Clarendon  Streets,  op- 
posite Trinity  (Phillips  Brooks's)  Church. 
American  plan. 

Barnes  &  Dunklee,  Proprietors. 

rpHE  VlCTORLA., 

JL     Dartmouth  and  Newbury  Streets,  op- 
posite Boston  Art  Club.    European  plan. 
Babneb  &  DtrNKLBB,  Proprietors. 

THE  YENDOME, 
Commonwealth  Avenue. 
C.  H.  Grbenleaf  &  Co.,  Proprietors. 
Amos  Bames>,  J.  W.  Dunklee, 

C.  H.  Greenleaf. 

■TTNITED  STATES  HOTEL. 
U  Directly  opposite  the  Boston  and 
Albany,  and  only  one  block  from  the  Old 
Colony  and  Fall  River  Lines,  three  blocks 
only  from  the  New  York  and  New  England 
and  Providence  and  Stonington  Stations, 
and  connecting  directly  by  horse-cars  with 
all  the  Northern  and  Eastern  Railroads  and 
Steamboats,  giving  guests  every  possible 
facility  and  convenience  of  rapid  and  eco- 
nomical transfer  from  all  points. 

TrLLT  Hatnep,  Proprietor. 

24 


BOSTON,  MASS. 

COPLEY  SQUARE  HOTEL. 
American  and  European  plans.  Hunt- 
ington and  Exeter  Street,  Boston.  Located 
in  the  fashionable  and  beautiful  Back  Bay 
District.  Containing  .300  rooms,  single  and 
en  suite,  richly  furnished.  It  is  but  six 
minutes'  ride  by  horse  or  electric  cars  to  the 
shopping  and  amusement  centers,  and  five 
minutes  to  different  railroad  depots.  Pas- 
sengers via  Boston  &  Albany  R.  R.,  at  Hunt- 
uigton  Ave.  Station,  withm  one  minute's 
walk  of  hotel.  Hotel  porter  will  be  in  at- 
tendance at  trains  arriving  from  New  York 
and  the  West. 

E.  S.  RiSTEE>f  &  Co.,  Proprietors. 


BUFFALO,  N.  Y. 

HOTEL  IROQUOIS. 
Woollet  &  Gerkans,  Proprietors. 
'The  leading  hotel  in  Buffalo.  The  only 
absolutely  fire-proof  house  in  the  city'; 
metropolitan  in  its  structure,  arrangements, 
equipments,  and  management.  American 
and  Bmopean  plans.     Most  central  location. 


-     CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS. 

i^-^ATSKILL  MOUNTAIN  BOUSE. 
\J  This  famous  summer  Hotel  is  situated 
ontheCatskill  Mountains,  eight  miles  west 
of  the  Hudson  River  and  twelve  miles  from 
the  village  of  Catskill.  N.  Y.  It  has  accom- 
modations for  400  Huests,  and  is  the  largest 
and  leading  Hotel  of  the  Catskill  region. 
Open  June  20th  to  September  20th.  Great 
reduction  in  rates.  New  Otis  elevator  from 
station  to  house.  Send  for  circular. 
C.  L.  Beach,  Proprietor,  Catskill,  N.  Y. 


J 


CARDS   OF  LEADING  HOTELS.— {ConimweA.) 


CANADA. 

■MIE   QUEEN'S, 

Toronto.  Celebrated  for  its  home 
niforts.  perfect  quiet,  good  attendance, 
d  the  peculiai'  excellence  of  its  cuisine. 
jlightfully  situated  near  the  h&y  on  Front 
reet,  convenient  to  business  center,  rail- 
ed depot,  steamboats,  etc. 

McGaw  &  WrNNETT,  Proprietors. 

Hlifton  house. 

.  J  Niagara  Eaixs.  directly  fronting 
h.e  Park  Reservations.  Sanitary  condition 
lerfect.  The  spray  from  the  Falls  keeps 
he  air  always  pure.  This  Bouse,  situated 
iirectly  in  front  of  the  Fall,  possesses  en- 
berior  advantages. 
I  G.  M.  CoLBTTRN,  Proprietor, 

Niaeara  Falls. 


QT.  LAWRENCE  HALL, 
O  Montreal.  For  upward  of  thirty-five 
years  the  name  of  the  St.  Lawrence' Hall 
has  been  familiar  to  all  travelers  on  this 
continent.  The  Hotel  is  conveniently  sit- 
uated in  the  heart  of  the  business  center 
of  Montreal,  and  is  contiguous  to  the  Gen- 
eral Post-Office  and  other  important  public 
buildings.  It  is  handsomely  decorated,  lux- 
uriously furnished,  lighted  by  the  electric 
light,  and  fitted  with  a  passenger  elevator. 
The  Hotel  is  under  the  personal  supervision 
of  the  proprietor,  Mr.  Henry  Hogan. 


DEER  PARK  AND  OAKLAND. 

/■\N  THE  CREST  OF  THE  ALLE- 
^  ;  GHANIES,  3,000  feet  above  tide- 
water. These  famous  mountain  resorts, 
situated  at  the  summit  of  the  Alleghanies 
and  directly  upon  the  main  line  of  the  Balti- 
more &  Ohio  R.  R.  All  Baltimore  &  Ohio 
trains  stop  at  Deer  Park  and  Oakland  dur- 
ing the  season.  Rates.  $60,  $75,  and  $90  a 
month,  according  to  location. 

George  D.  DeShields,  Manager. 


;  EUREKA  SPRINGS,  ARK. 

,   rrm'E  crescent  hotel. 

;     J_     It  is  in  the  midst  of  the  numerous 
j    springs,  and  is  conducted  for  comfort  of 
guests. 


LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 

HOTEL  CHAMPLAIN. 
The  Superb  Summer  Hotel  of  the 
North.    On  west  shore  of  Lake  Champlain, 
three  miles  south  of  Plattsburg.    Delaware 
and  Hudson  station  in  grounds. 

O.  D.  Seavet,  Manager. 


LEBANON,  MO. 

HOTEL  GASCONADE. 
First-class    House,  with  all  modern 
improvements  and  conveniences. 


THE  FLORENCE,  . 
Quebec.  i.s  one  of  the  most  pleasant, 
attractive,  and  comfortable  houses  for  tour- 
ists that  can  be  found  on  this  continent.  Its 
location  unequaled,  and  the  panoramic  view 
to  be  had  from  the  Balcony  is  not  even  sur- 
passed by  the  world-renowned  Dufferin  Ter- 
race, as  ft  commands  a  full  view  of  the  River 
St.  Lawrence,  the  St.  Charles  Valley,  Mont- 
morency Falls,  Laurentian  Range  of  Mount- 
ains, and  overlooks  the  largest  part  of  the 
City.  The  rooms  are  large,  elegantly  fur- 
nished, and  well  ventilated,  and  the  table 
first  class.         ^^.^j,  Trudel,  Proprietor. 


HOTEL  ROBERVAL, 
At  Roberval,  Lake  St.  John.  An 
elegant  new  hotel,  accommodates  three  hun- 
dred guests,  on  a  commanding  site,  afford- 
ing a  magnificent  view  of  the  whole  expanse 
of  Lake  St.  John.  Almost  in  front  of  the 
hotel  is  the  steamboat  wharf,  where  tour- 
ists may  embark  on  the  passenger  steamers 
making'  daily  trips  and  excursions  to  all 
points  on  Lake  St.  John  during  the  season 
of  navigation. 


LENOX,  MASS. 

i  /CURTIS  HOTEL. 

j  \_J     This  magnificently  located  house,  in 

j  the  midst  of  the  Berkshire  Hills,  is  open 

I  all  the  year  round.    All  modern  improve- 

'  ments  and  conveniences. 

j  W.  O.  Curtis,  Proprietor. 


NEWPORT  NEWS,  VA. 

HOTEL  WARWICK, 
On  Hampton  Roads,  eight  miles 
above  Old  Point  Comfort  and  twelve  miles 
from  Norfolk.  A  new  brick  building,  com- 
manding extensive  marine,  river,  and  in- 
land views;  elegant  and  complete  in  its 
appointment;  elevators,  steam  heat,  open 
fireplaces,  artesian  well,  thoroueh  drain- 
age ;  naiural  park  and  pleasure-ground  ; 
pier  300  feet  long,  with  handsome  pavilion; 
-separate  music  and  ball-room  on  the  bluff; 
billiards  and  bowling-alley ;  a  sloping  beach 
miles  in  length  ;  interesting  drives.  Open 
all  the  year. 

J.  R.  Swinerton,  Manager. 


26 


CARDS  OF  LEADING  HOTELS.—iConimn^a.) 


H 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE.  | 

OTEL  PONEMAH,  I 

Amherst  Station.    June  to  October.     I 
D.  S.  Flumer,  Proprietor. 

NEW  YORK.  I 

FIFTH  AVENUE  HOTEL, 

Madison  Square.     The  largest,  best  \ 

appointed,    and    most   liberally   managed  , 

Hotel  in  the  city,  with  the  most  central  and  ! 

delightful  location.  i 
Hitchcock,  Dakling  &  Co. 

PARK  AVENUE  HOTEL.  | 

Absolutely    fire-proof.  European  i 

plan,  $1  per  day   and  upward  ;     American  I 

plan,  $3.50  per  dav  and  upward.       Park  ! 

Avenue,  32d  and  33d  Streets.  Wm.  H.  Earle  \ 

&  Son,  Proprietors,  New  York.    Free  bag-  j 
gage  to  and  from  Grand  Centi-al  and  Long 
Island  Depots. 

rpHE  PLAZA  HOTEL. 
X     Located  in  the  heart  of  New  York,  at    \ 
Fifth  Ave.,  58th  and  59th  Streets,  overlook-    i 
ing  Central  Park  and  Plaza  Square,    The    j 
Hotel  is  absolutely  fire-proof.    Conducted 
on  American  and  European  plans. 

F.  A.  Hammond,  Proprietor.        j 

BEOADWAY  CENTRAL  HOTEL,  | 

Opposite  Bond  Street,  under  entire  : 
new  management.  One  Hundred  Thousand  j 
Dollars  have  been  spent  in  thorough  re- 
furnishing and  alterations,  making  ft  now 
one  of  the  finest  and  best  arranged  hotels 
in  the  city.  Both  American  and^European 
plans.  Rooms,  $1  to  $2,  and  board  from 
|2.50  to  p.50. 

Ttllt  Hatnes,  Proprietor. 

GRAND  UNION  HOTEL. 
Passengers  arriving  in  the  City  of 
New  York  via  Grand  Central  Depot  save 
Carriage-Hire  and  Transfer  of  Baggage 
by  stopping  at  the  Gkand  Unios  Hotex, 
opposite  the  depot.  Passengers  arriving 
by  West  Shore  RMlroad,  via  Weehawken 
Ferry,  by  taking  the  42d  Street  horSe.-cars 
at  ferry  entrance  reach  <3-rand  Union 
Hotel  in  ten  minutes.  600  rooms,  $1  and 
-  upward  per  day.  European  Plan.  Guests' 
baggage  delivered  to  and  from  Grand  Cen- 
tral Depot  li-ee. 

Ford  &  Co.,  Proprietors. 

HOTEL  CAMBRIDGE, 
Fifth  Avenue  and  33d  Street.  A  se- 
lect family  hotel,  having  every  comfort  and 
convenience  for  the  accommodation  of  per- 
manent and  transient  guests.  Cuisine  and 
service  unexcelled.  Convenient  to  the  prin- 
cipal points  of  interest. 

Henet  Walter,  Pi'oprietor, 
Late  of  the  Albemarle  Hotel,  New  York  city. 

26 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 

THE  PROSPECT  HOUSE 
is  under  the  same  Owner  and  Man 
agement  as  the  original  Prospect  Hqurp 
Canada  side,  established  in  1874.  This  ho 
tel  is  fitted  with  all  modem  improvements 
conveniently  and  admirably  located  on 
hitrh,  shady  ground,  and  is  a,  strictly  first- 
class  transient  hotel,  open  all  the  vpAr 
round.    Rates,  $3.50  to  $5.50. 

D.  Isaacs,  Owner  and  Manager. 

rpHE  CATARACT  HOUSE.' 
X  One  of  the  best  known  hotels  at 
Niagara.  Improvement  in  its  appointment 
of  miisine  and  service.  Under  new  and 
progressive  management.  Adjoining  State 
Reservation,  and  directly  opposite  Goat 
Island.    For  terms,  address 

J.  E.  Devereux,  Manager. 


PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 

COLONNADE  HOTEL, 
Chestnut  Street,  comer  15th,  Phila- 
delphia. Most  desirably  located,  and 
adapted  in  all  respects  to  the  requirement* 
of  the  beet  class  of  the  traveling  public. 
European  and  American  plans. 

H.  J.  &  G.  R.  Crump. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  N.  Y. 

(^  RAND  IINION  HOTEL, 
\SJ  Woollet  &  Gerrans,  Proprietors,  is 
the  most  magnificent  summer  hotel  in  the 
world.  It  is  in  the  finest  location,  and  ad- 
jacent to  the  most  famous  springs.  Splen- 
did orchestra.  Second  season  under  pres- 
ent management. 

WINDSOR  HOTEL. 
Season  of  1893.  Opens  May  31. 
Closes  October  1.  This  quiet  and  elegant 
hotel  will  be  conducted  as  a  strictly  high- 
class  house.  Location  unrivaled.  Appoint- 
ment?, cyisine,  and  service  unexcelled. 
Rooms  may  be  engaged  and  contracts  made 
by  addressing 

WiLLARD  Lester,  Manager, 

Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

RIGGS   HOUSE, 
Washington,  D.  C.    Reopened  under 
new  management ;  refurnished  and  redeco- 
rated in  first-class  style  ;  table  the  best  in 
the  city. 

RiGGS  House  Co..  Proprietors, 

G.  DeWitt,  Treasurer. 


CARDS   OF  LEADIXG  S'Or^Z;?.— (Continued.) 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

WILLARD'S  HOTEL 
is  the  largecit  and  oldest  house  in 
the  Capital.  It  ie  firt^t  class  iu  all  its  ap- 
pointments. It  is  now  under  the  new 
management  of  its  Proprietor,  Mr.  C.  G. 
Staples,  so  well  known  from  his  long  con- 
nection with  the  Thousand  Island  House, 
Alexandria  Bay. 


W 


WEST  POINT,  N.  Y. 

EST  POINT  HOTEL. 
The  only  hotel  on  the  post. 

Albert  H.  Cranet. 

WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

PROFILE  HOUSE, 
Franconia  Notch,  White  Mountains. 
Taft  &  Geeenleap,  Proprietors, 


MILITARY  TEXT-BOOKS. 

THE  NEW  AKlttY  DRILI.  REGULATIONS.  As  approved  by  the  Secretary  of 
War.  (Superseding  Upton's  Tactics,  previously  the  authorized  standard  for  the  United 
States  Army.)  Illustrated.  Foe  Lnfantrt.— One  volume.  Bound  in  leather,  with 
tuck.  75  cents  ;  m  stiff  paper  covers.  30  cents.  Foe  Cavalry.- One  volume.  Leather, 
with  tuck,  $1.00.    F'OR  Artilleey.— One  volume.     Leather,  with  tuck,  $1.00. 

MANUAL  OF  GUARD  DUTY  FOR  THE  UNITED  STATES  ARMY.  As 
approved  by  the  Secretary  of  War,  January,  1893.     Paper,  25  cents  ;  leather,  50  cents. 

HANDBOOK  OF  MILITARY  SIGNALING.  Prepared  by  Captain  Albert 
Gallup,  Signal  Oflicer  First  Brigade,  jST.  G.  S.  N.  Y.  Illustrated.  16mo.  Flexible 
cloth,  50  cents. 

THREE  ROADS  TO  A  COMMISSION  IN  THE  UNITEI^  STATES  ARMY. 
By  Lieutenant  W.  P.  Burnham,  Sixth  U.  S.  Infantry,  author  of  "Manual  of  Outpost 
Duty,'-  etc.    12mo.    Cloth,  $1.00. 

D.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  Publishers,  1,  3,  &  5  Bond  Street,  New  York. 


jjelaware  &  Hudson 
Railroad. 


THE  DIRECT  LINE  TO    LAKE    CHAMPLAIN 


etc. 


The  Adirondacks,  Lake  George,  Saratoga, 

Montreal,  Sharon  Springs,  The  Gravity  R.  R. 

And  the  SHOETEST,  QUICKEST,  and  BEST  EOTJTE  between 

NE^VS^  YORK  AMD  MONTREAL. 


WISITORS  TO  THE  WORLD'S  FAIR  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  route  via  Niagara 
^  _  Falls,  the  Thousand  Islands  and  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  Montreal,  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  Lake  George,  Saratoga,  and  the  Hudson  Paver,  is  the  greatest  highway  of  summer 
pleasm-e -travel  in  America. 


Send  6  cents  in  stamps  for  finely  IHuBtrated  Guide  of  the  line  to 
H.  G.  YOUNG,  J.  W.  BURDICK, 

Albany    N    Y  General  JPasaenger  Agentj 

27 


2d,  Vice- President, 


New  York  Central ! 

WHY  not  take  an  early  opportunity  to  investigate  the  unparalleled  facilities 
we  offer,  and  unite  your  verdict  with  that  of  the  press  and 
public  of  this  great  country,  that  one  of  its  greatest  and  most 
valuable  institutions  is  the 

New  York  Central  ? 

WHO  would  not  prefer  to  have  the  best,  when  it  can  be  had  at  practically 
the  same  cost,  taking  into  consideration  time,  comfort,  and  de- 
sirability of  route  and  surroundings,  viz  , 

,  New  York  Central  ? 

WHAT  can  be  superior  to  the  magnificent  equipment  of  the  most  famous 
railroad  in  the  world,  the 

New  York  Central  ? 

WHEN  you  go  to  the  World's  Fair  at  Chicago,  or  make  your  customary 
trip  to  the  East,  go  by  "  America's  Greatest  Railroad,"  the 

New  York  Central, 

WHICH  is  the  best  route  between  the  East  and  the  West.  There  is  now 
but  one  answer  to  this  question.  Without  doubt  the  answer  of 
every  experienced  traveler  is,  the 

New^  York  Central. 

WHERE  can  you  find  such  varied  and  delightful  scenery,  such  superb 
trains,  or  such  reliable  service  generally,  as  are  presented  by  the 

New  York  Central  ? 

WOULD  you  have  a  clearer  conception  of  our  great  system  and  its  advan- 
tages ?     Send  five  two-cent  stamps  for  a  copy  of  "  Health  and 
~     .  Pleasure  oh  America's  Greatest  Railroad,'"  to 

GEORGE  H.  DANIELS,  General  Passenger  Agent, 
•  Grand  Central  Station,  New  York 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  and  TIME  OF  TRAINS 

CN    THE 

Mauch  Chunk, 

Summit  Hill,  & 

Switch°Back 


The  SWITZERLAND  of  AMERICA. 


Length  of  Mount  Pisgah 2,322  feet. 

Height  of  :\Iount  Pis.eah (i64  feet. 

Distance    from  Mount    Pisgah    to 

Mount  Jefferson G%  miles. 

Fall  from  ]\Iouut  Pisgah  to  Mount 

Jefferson : .302  feet. 

Length  of  ;Mount  Jefferson .2,070  feet. 

Height  ot  ■Mount  Jeffergon 462  feet. 

Distance  from  Mount  Jefferson  To 

Summit  Hill 1  mile. 


Fall  from  Mount  Jefferson  to  Sum- 
mit Hill .  , 4.5  feet. 

Grade  from  Summit  Hill  to  Mauch 

Chunk,  to  the  mile 98  feet. 

Summit  Hill  above  the  Lehigh  —     975  feet. 

Jlount  Pisgah  above  the  Lehigh. . .     850  feet. 

^Mount  Pisgah  above  the  tide 1,.500  feet. 

INIount  Jefferson  above  the  tide l,GCi2  feet. 

Distance  from    Mauch   Chunk  to  /  18  miles 
Summit  Hill  and  return \  circuit. 


TljViE-TABLE    SWJTCH-SACK    I?.  R.,  TAKING    EFFECT    RflAY    18,    1893. 


TRAILS. 


Leave. 
Mansion  House  (.stage). 
American     *'  - 

Switch-Back  Depot 

Mount  Pisgah 

jVIount  Jelierson 

Summit  Hill,  arrive  ... 
Summit  Hill,  leave.  ... 
Upper  Mauch  Chunk.. . 

American  House 

Mansion  House 


No.  1 

No.  2 

No.  3 

No.  4 

No.  5 

No.  6 

No.  7* 

1     A.  M. 

A.  M. 

A.  >r. 

p.  M. 

P.M. 

P.M. 

P.  M.  - 

8.00 

9.40 

11.17 

12.40 

1.50 

3.25 

5.20 

8.05 

9.45 

11.22 

12.45 

1.55 

3.30 

5.25 

8.30 

10.00 

11.37 

1.00 

2.20 

3.45 

5.35 

1     8.45 

10.25 

11.47 

1.10 

2.30 

3.55 

5740 

9.10 

10.45 

12.12 

1.35 

2.55 

4.20 

6.05 

9.15 

10.50 

12.17 

1.40 

8.00 

4.25 

6.10 

9.40 

11.10 

12.35 

1..50 

3.20 

4.35 

6.15 

10.00 

11.30 

12..55 

2.10 

3.40 

4.55 

6.35 

10.15 

11.45 

1.10 

2.25 

3.55 

5.05 

C.45 

10.20 

11.50 

1.15 

2.30 

4.00 

5.10 

6.50 

*  After  September  20th  Train  No.  7  will  be  30  minutes  earlier. 

The  above  make  connection  with  trains  to  and  from  New  York.  Phila.,  Wilkesbarre, 
Scranton,  Elmira.  etc.  Stages  connect  \\ith  all  trains  on  Central  K.  R.  of  N.  J.  and  Lehigh 
Valley  R.  R.  for  "  Sv,itch-Back,"  enabling  passengers  to  enjoy  a  ride  over  this  road  and  re- 
turn to  the  above  same  day. 

SUMMER  EXCURSIONS. 

SPECIAL    CARS    FOR    PRIVATE     PARTIES     WILL    BE    RUN    AT 
ANY    TIME   DURING    THE   DAY. 


T.  L.  MUMFOED,  Less,  and  Manager. 

General  Office, 


E,  J,  MUMFOSD,  Supt.  and  Pass,  Agent. 
Mauch  Chunk,  Pa. 

29 


THE 


Grand  Trunk  Railway, 


THE  FAYOPJTE  KOUTE  TO  THE 


WORLD'S  FAIR,  CHICAGO, 

Via  Niagara  Falls,  Portland,  Quebec,  Montreal,  Toronto,  Port 
Huron,  Detroit,  Chicago,  and  Mil-waukee. 


THIS  GREAT  HIGHWAY  OF  TEA\rEL,  reaching  from  the  Atlantic  Coast  to  the  Great 
Lakes,  serving  alike  the  commercial  and  business  interests  of  the  United  States  and 
British  America,  has  justly  acquired  the  title  of  "  The  Great  International  Route."  The  di- 
versified character  of  the  country  through  which  it  passes,  the  many  points  of  interest  which 
it  reaches,  and  the  excellent  facilities  it  offers  to  the  traveling  public  in  its  superior  equip, 
ment,  through-coaches,  and  sleeping  and  dining  car  service,  all  combine  to  give  to  this  line 
an  enviable  reputation,  and  make  it  a  desirable  route  for  the  traveling  public  in  general  and 
to  the  summer  tourist.  Pullman  and  "Wagner  Palace  Sleeping,  Parlor,  and 
Buffet  Cars  ai'e  attached  to  Express  Trains,  with  commodious  day-cars,  having  all  im- 
provements and  appliances  for  the  comfort  and  safety  of  passengers. 


The  Great 

Tourists' 

Route. 

Niagara 
Falls 
Route. 

Thousand 
Islands 
Route. 

White      Montreal 
Mountain  and  Quebec 
Route.  1     Line. 

WHAT   IS   THE    ST.   CLAIR  TUNNEL? 

It  is  the  greatest  submarine  tunnel  in  the  world,  extending  from  Port  Huron, 
Michigan,  under  the  St.  Clair  Riveriio  Samia,  Ontario,  and  connecting  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way System  of  Canada  with  the  Chicago  and  Grand  Trunk  Raihvay.  It  has  just  been  com- 
pleted at  a  cost  of  $3,700,000.  The  tunnel  proper  is  a  continuous  iron  tube,  19  feet  and 
10  inches  in  diameter,  and  6,(fe.5  feet,  or  more  than  a  mile,  long.  The  length  of  the  approaches, 
in  addition  to  the  tunnel  proper,  is  5,603  feet,  making,  aJl  told,  a  little  over  two  miles. 

The  GRAinD  Trunk  Ratlvtat,  in  connection  with  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Company's  Steamers,  offers  the  pleasure  of  a  tour  via  River  St.  Lawrence,  with  its  Thousand 
Islands  and  Rapids,  that  is  unsurpassed. 

In  connection  with  the  Chicago  and  Grand  Trunk,  or  the  Detroit,  Grand  Haven  and  Mil- 
waukee Railways,  the  superior  facilities  of  these  routes  afford  those  who  intend  traveling 
East  or  West  all  the  advantages  and  comfort  that  can  be  desired. 

Any  information  will  be  furnished  upon  inquiry  at  the  Company's  Offices  in  New  York, 
Boston,  Portland,  Me.,  Halifax,  Montreal,  Ogdensburg,  Toronto,  Buffalo,  Detroit,  Port  Hu- 
ron, Chicago,  Milwaukee,  or  any  of  the  Ticket  Offices  tlSonghout  the  United  States  or  Canad- . 


Geji'l  Passenger  Agent.  AssH  GenH  Pass.  Agent.  GenH  Manager. 

F.  P.  DWYEE,  Eastern  Pass.  Agent,  291  Broadway,  New  York. 

HEAD  OFFICE,  MONTREAL,  P.  Q. 


THE 


OReKT 


M^^^k 


^^WHP  SYSTEM 


t 


Connecting  the  Commercial  Centres  and  rich 

farms  of 

MISSOURI, 

The  Broad  Corn  and  Wheat  Fields  and  Thriving 

Towns  of 

KANSAS, 

The  Fertile  River  Valleys  and  Trade  Centres  of 

NEBRASKA, 
The  Grand,  Picturesque  and  Enchanting  Scen- 
ery, and  the  Famous  Mining  Districts  of 
COLORADO, 
The  Agi-icnltural,  Fruit,  Mineral  and  Timber 
Lands,  and  Famous  Hot  Springs  of 
ARKANSAS, 
The  Beautiful  Rolling  Prairies  and  Wood  landa 
of  the 
INDIAN  TERRITORY, 
The  Sugar  Plantations  of 
LOUISIANA, 
The  Cotton  and  Grain  Fields,  the  Cattle  Ranges 
and  Winter  Resorts  of 

TEXAS, 

Historical  and  Scenic 

OLD  AND  NEW  MEXICO, 

And  forms  with  its  Connections  the  Popular 

Winter  Route  to 

ARIZONA  AND  CALIFORNIA, 

Por  full  descriptive  and  Illustrated  pamphlet  of 
any  of  the  above  States,  or  Hot  Springs,  Ark.,  San 
Antonio,  Texas,  and  Mexico,  address  Company's 
Agents,  or 

H.  C.  TOWNSEND, 

Qen'l  Passwger  &  Ticket  Ageat,        £T.  LOUIS,  MO. 


31 


BALTIMORE  &  OHIO  R.R, 


PULLMAN'S  PALACE  SLEEPING-CARS 

Through  without  change 

From   NEW  YORK, 

PhTlLADELPHIA, 

BALTIMORE, 

WASHINGTON, 
To  CINCINNATI, 

CHICAGO, 

ST.  LOUIS. 


SOLID' VESTIBULED  TRAINS. 

The   Baltimore   &  Ohio   R.  R.  is   the   only  line   running 
through  trains  between  the  East  and  West, 

Via  WASHINGTON^. 

The  scenery  along  this  line  is  the  finest  in  America,  and 
has  gained  for  the  route  the  sobriquet  of 

PICTURESQUE  B.  &  O. 


PRINCIPAL  OFFICES: 

Boston,  211  Washington  Street.  New  Yoke,  415  Broadway, 

Philadelphia,  833  Chestnut  Street.  Baltimore,  corner  Calvert  and 

Washington,  1351  Pennsylvania  Avenue.  Baltimore  Streets. 

Pittsburgh,  corner  Fifth  Avenue  and  Wood  Street. 
Cincinnati,  corner  4th  and  Vine  Streets. 
Chicago,  193  Clark  Street. 

St.  Louis,  105  N.  Broadway. 
33 


"FRISCO  LINE." 

=  The  -= 


St.  Louis is.^^ San  Francisco 

=  Railway  = 

IS  NOW  A  PART  OF  THE   GREAT  SANTA  FE  SYSTEM, 
WHICH  COMPRISES  ABOUT 

10,000  MILES  OF  FIEST-OLASS  EAILWAY. 


THE  POPULAR   THROUGH- CAR  ROUTE 

From  St.  Louis 

TO  ALL  POINTS  WEST  AKD  SOUTHWEST. 


pULLMAN  SLEEPERS 

DAILY  between  St.  Louis  and  Texas,  New  and 
Old  Mexico,  Colorado,  California,  and  interme- 
diate States  and  Territories. 


gUREKA  SPRINGS,  ARK., 

and  LEBANON,  MO.,  the  two  Famous  Health 
AND  Pleasure  Resorts   of  the    Southwest, 
afford  a  delightful  visit  for  Tourists. 


For  illustrated  Pamphlets,  Maps,  Tlme-Tables,  etc..  address 

either  of  the  under-named : 
H.  L.  MORRILL,,  B.  WISHART, 

General  Manager,  ST.  LOUIS,  MO-  General  Passenger  Agent,  ST.  LOUIS,  MO, 


A   SENSIBLE    ROAD. 
THE 

CANADIAN  PACIFIC 

Railway  Company 

OPERATE  THEIR  OWN 

DINING-CARS,  TELEGRAPHS,  STEAMSHIPS, 

SLEEPING-CARS,  HOTELS,  Etc.,  Etc. 

EVEEYTHIKG  THEY   DO    IS   DONE   WELL.        IF   TOC    ARE    GOING    TO 

Canada,  The  Eastern  Provinces, 
The  Upper  Lakes, 

The  Western  Prairies,   Over  the 

Rockies,  to  the  Pacific  Coast, 
To  Alaska,  To  China,  Japan,  and  India, 
To  the  Sandwich  Islands, 

New  Zealand,  Australia, 

or  Around  the  World, 

rOTJ   CAN  DO   SO   WITH  MORE   COMFORT    AND    SATISFACTION    BY   TRAVELING   YIA 

THE  GREATEST  OF  RAILWAYS  AND  STEAMSHIPS. 

Its  Rates  are  the  Lowest  and  its  Equipment  the  Best. 

PUBLICATIONS: 

Around  the  World  Folder.       Banff  and  the  Liakes  in  the  Clouds. 
New  HighTvay  to  the  Orient.    Summer  Tours. 
Westward  to  the  Far  East.      Fishing  and  Shooting. 
Annotated  Time-table,  etc. 

Send  for  a  copy  to 


E.  V.  Skinner,  353  Broadway,  New  York. 
C.  E.  McPherson,  197  Washington  St.,  Bos- 
ton, and  St.  John,  N.B. 
W.  E.  Callaway,  1  King  St.,  E.  Toronto. 
C.  Shbeht,  11  Fort  Street,  Detroit. 
J.  F.  Lee,  232  South  Clark  Street,  Chicago. 


K.  Kerb,  Winnipeg. 
G.  McL.  Brown,  Vancouver,  B.  C. 
M.  M.  Stern,  648  Market  St.,  San  Francisco. 
D.  E.  Brown,  Hong-Kong. 
A.  Baker,  G7  King  William  Street,  London, 
England. 


Or  to  D.  MclinOOLL,  General  Passenger  Agent,  MONTREAL. 
34 


THE 

Pennsylvania  Railroad 

HAS   LED 

AND   CONTBNUES   TO   LEAD 

All  Other  Transportation  Companies 

IN    THE    INTRODUCTION    OF    MODERN    APPLIANCES 
TENDING    TO    INCREASE 

Comfort,  Safety,  Luxury,  and 

Speed  in   Railway  Travel. 


J 


The  introduction  of  Limited  Express  Trains. 

The  introduction  of  Yestibuled  Trains. 

The  introduction  of  Stenographers,  Electric  Lights,  Baths,  Barbers,  Libra- 
ries, Ladies'  Maids,  and  movable  easy-chairs  on  Limited  Express  Trains. 

The  introduction  of  Interlocking  Switches,  the  Block-Signal  System,  and 
other  Safety-securing  Apparatus. 

The  introduction  of  Stone-ballasted  Track  and  Steel  Rails. 

The  introduction  of  the  method  whereby  engines  can  be  supplied  with  water 
while  running  at  a  full  rate  of  speed. 

The  establishment  of  a  personally-conducted  Tourist  System  for  the  benefit 
of  the  pleasure-seeking  public. 

The  introduction  of  Chaperons  in  connection  with  personally-conducted 
Tours  and  Excursions,  for  the  benefit  of  ladies  traveling  without  escort. 

The  introduction,  shortly  to  be  completed,  of  the  system  of  elevated  stations 
and  double-decked  steam-ferry  ships,  which  will  enable  passengers  to 
pass  to  and  from  trains  and  stations  above  the  turmoil  of  the  river- 
front street  traffic,  are  among  the  many  triumphs  of  this  greatest  of 
public  servants. 

Other  Railroad  Companies  may  imitate,  may  emulate,  but  none  can  equal, 
much  less  surpass,  the  perfection  of  passenger  service  which  has  been 
attained,  and  is  maintained,  by  this  greatest  of  railways. 

35 


Niagara  River  Line. 

THE    SHORT    AND    PICTCRESQUE    ROUTE    BETWEEN 

NIAGARA  FALLS  and  TORONTO,  the  "Queen  City  of  Canada." 

The  Steel  Steamers  . 

CHIOORA  and  CIBOLA 

Leave  Lewiston,  at  foot  of  Niagara  rapids,  four  times  daily  (except  Sunday),  on 
arrival  of  UTew  York  Central  railway  trains  from  the  Falls,  for  Toronto, 
giving  passengers  a  beautiful  sail  of  seven  miles  down  tlie  river  and  thirty-six 
across  Lake  Ontario. 

The  only  route  giving  views  of  the  Rapids,  Brock's  Monument, 
dueenston  Heights,  Old  Niagara,  and  all  the  varied  scenery  of  the 
lower  Niagara  River.  Tourii^ts  can  breakfast  at  the  Falls,  have  six  hours  in 
Toronto,  and  be  back  again  to  the  Falls  for  dinner. 

Tickets  at  all  offices  of  the  Vanderbilt  System  of  railways,  and  principal 
ticket-offices  at  Niagara  Falls. 

JOHN    FOY,   i^anager. 

qUEBEC  STEAMSHIP   COMPANY. 

MONTREAL,   aUEBEC,   NEW  BRUNSWICK,   PRINCE  EDWARD 
ISLAND,  AND  NOVA  SCOTIA. 

A  steamer  of  this  line  leaves  Montreal  and  Picton,  Nova  Scotia,  alternately  every  Monday, 
calling  at  Quebec,  Farther  Point,  Gaspe.  Perce,  Summer-side,  and  Charlottetown,  Prince 
Edward  Island.  Excursion  tickets  and  connections  to  all  parts  of  Canada,  the  United  States, 
and  Newfoundland,  '  > 

This  route  offers  special  attractions  to  tourists  during  the  summer  months. 

BERMUDA  ROYAL  MAIL  LINE. 

The  magnificent  new  powerful  passenger  steamers  Trinidad  or  Orinoco,  now  on  this  route, 
leave  New  York  and  Bermuda  alternately  every  Thursday,  from  January  to  June. 


St.  Kitt'Sj  Antigua,  Guadeloupe,  Dominica,  MartinicLue,  St.  Lucia, 
Barbadoes,  Trinidad,  and  Madiana,  3,050  Tons. 

The  magnificent  new  powerful  passauger  steamers  Trinidad  or  Orinoco,  with  the  "  Carilr 
be,  "  Bermuda,  and  the  Muriel,  form  a  line  to  these  Islands,  leaving  New  York  every  ten  days 

Tickets  for  sale  at  all  the  Principal  Ticket-Offices  in  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and  at 
Thomas  Cook  &  Son's  Ticket-Offices,  261  Broad wav,  New  York,  197  Washint^non  S'^'-eet, 
Boston,  and  337  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia.  '  ^ 

A.  E.  OUTERBRIDGE 1  CO.,  Agents,  39  Broadway,  New  York. 

AETHTia  AHERN,  Secretary,  Quebec,  Canada. 
36 


SAVANNA^:    LINE 


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FROIVI  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  PHILADELPHIA, 


TONS  I  TONS 

SS.  Kansas  City  (new),  4,000  I  SS.  City  of  Birmingham,  3,000 

SS.  Tallahassee   -     -   3,000  j  SS.  Chattahoochee   -    3,000 

SS.  City  of  Savannah,  2,  100  SS.  City  of  Macon      -     2,100 


TONS 

SS.  City  OF  Augusta,  3.000 
SS.  Nacoochee  -  -  3,000 
SS.  Gate  City     -     -   2.100 


ADDRESS    FOR    PARTICULARS    REGARDING    FREIGHT   OR    PASSAGE: 

RICHARDSON  &  BARNARD,  Agts.,  WM.  L.  JAME8,  Agt., 

Lewis  Wharf,  Boston.  13  So.  3d  St.,  Philadelphia. 

W.  H.  RHETT,  Gen'l  Agt.  C.  R.  R.,        J.  D.  HASHAGEN,  East.  Agt.  S.,  F.  &  W.  Ry  Co., 
317  Broadway^  New  York.  261  Broadway,  New  York. 

R.  L.  WALKER,  Agt.,  New  Pier,  35  N.  R.,  New  York. 

37 


The  Iniercolonial  Railway  of  Canada. 

Many  of  the  World's  Fair  Summer  Resorts  are  on  this  Popular  and  Fashionable  Route 
~-  FOR  Canadian  and  United  States  Travel; 

and    direct     route   to 
The  Famous  Seaside  and  Fishing  Resorts  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence 

AND    BAIE    DE    CHALEURS,  AND   OF    NEW   BRUNSWICK,    NoVA   SCOTIA, 

Cape  Breton,  Prince  Edward  and  the  Magdalen  Islands. 

Illnstrated  Guide-Book  to  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  with  Maps,  Hotel  Lists,  etc. ; 

also  Time-Tables,  showing  RaU  and  Steamboat  connections,  can  be  had 

on  application  to  City  Agents,  or  to 

A.  BUSBT,  General  Passenger  Agent,  D.  POTTINGEB,  Chief  SiquHntendent, 

MONCTON,  N.  B. 

THE  "LAND  OF  EVANGELINE"  ROUTE. 

THE  WINDSOR  &  ANNAPOLIS  RAILWAY 

(of  nova  SCOTIA) 
is  the  beau-ideal  of  the  Tourist's  Road,  the  best  and  most  recent  improvements— steel  rails, 
air-brakes,  new  rolling-stock— making  travel  a  luxury,  through  scenes  over  which  LONG- 
FELLOW lavished  the  splendors  of  his  imaeinati\e  genius.  The  Railway  runs  through  the 
far-famed  Annapolis  Valley,  the  garden  of  the  Maritime  Provinces,  and  over  ground  where 
the  love-tragedy  of  EVANGELINE  was  woven  in  Fate's  shuttle. 

OIE3IIE3-A.IF*  First-Class  Hotel  Accommodation  in  every  Town  at  Reasonable  Rates. 

IF-A-I^ES-      splendid  steamships  running  in  connection  to  and  from  boston  and  ST.  JOHN,  n.  b.  , 

while  daily  connections  are  made  putting  the  passenger  in  touch  with 

EVERY   RAILWAY  IN   CANADA  AND  THE  STATES. 

Nova  Scotia,  the  Land  of  Evangeline. 

TARMOUTH  AND  ANNAPOLIS  RAILWAY. 

the  best  way  for  AMERICAN  TOURISTS  TO  REACH  NOVA  SCOTIA  IS  BY  THE 

STEAMERS  OF  THE  YARMOUTH  S.  S.  CO.,  FROM   BOSTON,  CONNECTING  AT  YARMOUTH 

WITH  THE  YARMOUTH  AND  ANNAPOLIS   RAILWAY 

FOR  WEYMOUTH,   DIQBY,  ANNAPOLIS,   MIDDLETON,   BRIDQEWATER,   KENTVILLE, 
WINDSOR,   HALIFAX,   TRURO,   PICTOU,  AND  ALL  POINTS  IN  GAPE  BRETON. 

CHEAP  FARES.     Q,mGK  AND  SAFE  TRANSIT. 

WM.  TEASER,  Oen'l  Passenger  Agent,  J.  BEIGNELL,  Gen'l  Superintendent, 

TARMOUTH,  NOVA  gCOTLA. 


YARMOUTH   STEAMSHIP  COMPANY. 

The  "BOSTON"  and  " YARMOUTH 'V  of  this  line  make  four  trips  a  week  during 
vacation  season,  leaving  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  Monday,  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Friday,  at 
12  M.,  and  returning  leave  Yarmouth,  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Saturday  evenings. 

SEA  VOYAGE  ONLY  17  HOURS. 

For  sportsmen  who  would  like  an  outing  in  this  picturesque  land  of  Evangeline,  this  line 
affords  an  excellent  opportunity  to  reach  the  fishing  and  shooting  grounds.  For  full  in- 
formation, write  to 

J.  F.  SPINKtEY,  Agent,  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston. 

40 


F.W.  D 


an 

(ESTABLISHED   1852) 


E&GO. 


Fulton  St.,  cor.  "William,  Ne\v  York, 


MANUFACTURERS  OF 


^  (^, 


Our  Tube  Colors,  Canvas,  Brushes,  etc.,  are  ased  by,  and  commaud  the  confidence  of, 

the  leading  American  Artists.    Circulars,  containing  indorsements  of  on? 

manufactures  by  prominent  artists,  sent  on  request. 


DRAWING   PAPERS. 

ETCHING  MATERIALS. 
WATER-COLORS. 


CRAYON  MATERIALS. 

SCULPTORS'   TOOLS. 

CHOICE   STUDIES. 


Complete  Outfit  for  Sketching. 

NOVELTIES  •;•  FOR  •!•  DECORATION. 

Mathematical  Instruments.    Engineei's'  Supplies.    Pure  Ready- 
mixed.  Paints ;  sample  card  of  fifty  shades  on  request. 
Ready-mixed  G-ilding-  Paint  for  Decorating. 
White  Lead.    Colors  in  Oil.    TINE  VARNISHES. 

Correspondence  invited  and  promptly  attended  to.  Ask  your  Artist's  Colorman  ox 
Stationer  for  DEVOE'S  TUBE  COLORS,  CANVAS,  and  BRUSHES.  Given  a  fair  tria' 
you  will  be  satisfied  to  use  none  of  other  manufacture. 

Do  You  Travel  for  Health  or  Pleasure  ? 

IF  YOU  DO, 
DO  YOU  NOT  THINK  THAT  A  LITTLE  A10NTHLY  MAGAZINE,  WHOSE  SOLE  AIM  IN 
LIFE  IS  TO  BE  OF  SERVICE  TO  YOU,  WOULD  BE  CONVENIENT  TO  HAVE  ABOUT? 

COSTS  ONLY  ONE  DOLLAR  A  YEAR, 

AND  IS  WORTH  TWO. 

A  ^uery  good  plan  is  to  combine  your . 

subscription  to  THE  TOURIST 

nvith  07ie  to  THE  POPULAR 


:^-m^[fflLY-ri%H2INE-r!P.-  TiaiELERS- 

UT!CA,  N.  Y. 


SCIENCE   MONTHLY,  and< 
get  the    TWO  for    $g.gO. 


A  subscription  to  THE  TOURIST  includes  a  subscription  to  any  one  of  the  four 
weeklies  which  form  THE  NEWS  SERIES— fZv  Saratoga  U^ews,  The  Richfield 
U^ews,  The  Thousand  Islands  U^ews,  and  The  St.  Augustine  U^ews,  which  have 
been  called   "The  Court  Journals"  of  American  Summer  and  Winter  Resorts. 

Each  subscriber  to  THE  TOURIST  becomes  a  subscriber  to  The  Travelers' 
Bureaus  of  The  News  Series,  and  is  privileged  to  make  inquiries  about  summer 
and  winter  resorts,  and  otherwise  avail  himself  of  the  service  these  bureaus  offer. 
F.  G.  BARRY,  Publisher,  Utica,  N.  Y. 

41 


i 


MANUFACTURERS    OF 


Grand, 

Square,  and 

Upright 


Pianos 


/ 


EUGEN  D' ALBERTS 

From  fullest  conviction,  I  declare  them  to  he  the  best  Instruments  of  America. 

DR.  HANS  VON  BUJLOW : 

Their  sound  and  touch  are  more  syrhpathetic  to  my  ears  and  hands  than  all 
others  of  the  country.     I  declare  them  the  absolutely  best  in  America. 

ALFRED  GRIINFELDj 

I  consider  them  ///^  best  instruments  of  our  times. 

P.  TSCHAIKOVSKY : 

Combines  with  great  volume  of  tone  rare  sympathetic  and  tioble  tone  color 
and  perfect  action. 


WAREROOMS 

BALTIMORE, 
22  and  24  East  Baltimore  Street. 

NEW  YORK, 
148  Fifth  Avenue. 

42 


WASHINGTON, 
817  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 


^  Never  Travel 

Without  a  supply  of  TARRANT'S  SELTZER 
APERIENT.  Why?  Well,  because  it  is  to- 
day the  best=known  remedy  for 

Sick  Headache,  Sea=Sickiiess, 

Biliousness,  Constipation, 

Indigestion,     and      Heartburn. 

TARRANT'S  SELTZER  APERIENT  is  economical  in  price, 
convenient  to  carry,  palatable  and  pleasant  to  take,  and  certain 


fSELTZER] 


in  its  action.  Dis- 
produces  a  delight- 
draught,  readily  tak- 
child.  Hence  it  is 
ed  to  the  require- 
ing  public,  and  can 
to    correct    the    ill 

indiscretions  in  eat- 

to  remove  the,  evils 

badly  cooked  food  and  irregular  meals 

prescribed  by  Americati  physicians  since  iSJfJf 


solved  in  water  it 
ful  effervescing 
en  by  the  smallest 
particularly  adapt- 
ments  of  the  travel- 
always  be  relied  on 
effects  arising  from 
ing  or  drinking,  and 
proceeding  from 
Esteemed,  favored^  and 


A  Prominent  Divine  of   Charleston,   S.  C,  writes: 

"  I  very  willingly  bear  testimony  to  the  value  of  Tarrant's  SeltzeI?  Aperient.  It  has  been 
in  use  in  my  family  many  years.  I  never  travel  without  it,  and  have  found  it  of  special  value  as  a 
preventive  or  corrective  of  Sea-Sickness.  I  have  been  enabled  by  its  use  to  relieve  many  who  were 
suffering  from  this  most  distressing  malady,  and  who  have  found  other  remedies  ineffective. 

"Charleston,  S.  C,  December  -i,  1883." 

"U.  S.  Navy-Yard,  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  Commandant's,  May  26,  1884. 
"  It  gives  me  pleasure  to  express  my  perfect  satisfaction  with  the  wholesome  effects  of  Tar- 
rant's Seltzer  Aperient.     I  have  had  occasion  to  use  it  in  almost  every  part  of  the  world. 

"OSCAR  T.  SAWYER,  Secretary." 


Sold  by  Druggists  generally  throughout  the  United  States,  and  by 

NEWBERRY  &  SON,  1  and  3  King  Edward  Street,  LONDON. 


Dm-.i&k  Me:  iris.  m. 


y\.   McCALL,    PRESIDENT. 


-ASSETS/ •ja.tmary  i,  1893-  -- 
SURPLUS,  January ^-i,  1893  - 


?I37,499,I98.99 
30,936,590.83 
16,804,948,10 


